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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







MISC:Beautiful Jack Taylor on ebay posted by: Dick on 2/21/2002 at 1:16:07 AM
There is a gorgeous Jack Taylor on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1805380299). It was ordered in the early 80's by an old timer roadie to be made in the old style with classic components including, get this, wood rims! 17 hours left and it's sitting there in Germany in immaculate condition for $500. I'm sure there are some snipers out there waiting to pounce. Don't tell Stacey, he'll buy it, part it out and retire to the Bahamas.


   RE:MISC:Beautiful Jack Taylor on ebay posted by Walter on 2/21/2002 at 3:10:53 AM
Beautiful bike! I really don't understand the wood rims which would have been as anachronitic in '82 as they are today but they do give the bike a very unique look. Nothing particularly rare about N. Record but how many 1980s bikes have wood rims? That may be the only one.

It was at 510$ when I checked. If it stays there it's a bargain. This guy Cyclo24 in Germany markets more than his share of unique stuff.

   RE:RE:MISC:Beautiful Jack Taylor on ebay posted by Dick on 2/21/2002 at 8:36:45 AM
Walter,
I agree. This is an approach not often seen. I know where there is a 50th anniversary Schwinn Paramount fitted with 50th aniversary Campy Gruppo, each with the factory gold-plated accents. Then it was mounted with wood rims with gold-plated eyelets. A collection of classic components from different time zones.

   RE:MISC:Beautiful Jack Taylor on ebay posted by Keith on 2/21/2002 at 9:13:23 PM
Believe it or not about 5-6 years ago Nashbar offered Italian-made ash rims for about $50 (for tubulars, of course). I could kick myself for not buying a set -- I was tempted, but hesitated and lost, as the old saw goes.

   RE:MISC:Beautiful Jack Taylor on ebay posted by Dick on 2/22/2002 at 1:32:29 AM
The bike went for $666! Add $120 shipping, that comes to $786. The last time I was in a bike shop looking over new bikes, $786 wouldn't buy a whole lot of bike. Condratulations to bicyclebob.






AGE / VALUE:Commasini posted by: Frank on 2/20/2002 at 5:34:16 PM
I was recently offered a bike and cannot locate any info on it. Perhaps someone here can help. The bike frame is Italian (so I've been told) with the name Commasini (sp?). It is a derailer shifted bike that's been converted to a fixed gear. It has mostly Shimano Dura Ace components, and I remember seeing some Columbus tubing stickers on it. It also has a signature from the frame builder on it, which I couldn't make out. Is it worth the $200 price I was offered?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:Commasini posted by Brian L. on 2/20/2002 at 9:13:58 PM
You probably mean Tommasini, a very well respected Italian builder. As in most things, condition governs all. Has the derailleur hanger been cut off? Are the finish, components and decals in good condition? If the answers are "No" and then "Yes" in that order, sounds like a very good deal.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Commasini posted by Frank on 2/20/2002 at 9:32:56 PM
I'm fairly sure that it said "Commasini" or perhaps "Comasini". I go by this bike shop about every other day or so, so I'll double check. The owner of the shop said that the guy that owns it is a local racer and used it for training, and that he had it custom built for him. The derailer hanger and shifter bosses are intact, as are the decals and paint. The components appear to be in good shape as well. I asked the owner if there was anything wrong with it, due to the seemingly reasonable price, and he said it was in good shape. He told me that a bottom bracket would cost me a bit more due to the different thread pitch, and that's why people have been shying away from it, plus the fact it's a fixed gear. It's been in this shop for at least a year, I just never bothered to ask a price, assuming it was too much. Now I'm strongly considering purchasing it. Thanks very much for the info, and I'll clarify the name soon.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Tommasini posted by Frank on 2/20/2002 at 9:48:34 PM
After I replied to your message, I searched for some pictures of Tommasini bikes, and the logo on the ones I seen are the same as the one I found I believe. Sorry about the mixup. It was hanging uside down and kind of high.

   Italian BB threads posted by John E on 2/21/2002 at 12:59:34 AM
Unless it has Swiss BB threads (extremely rare on Italian bikes), you should have no trouble finding suitable replacement BB cups (36mm x 24 TPI, clockwise thread) and spindles (for 70mm, rather than 68mm, BB shell width) or, better yet, a modern sealed bearing cartridge assembly. Go for it. Nothing rides and handles like a steel Italian frame!

   RE:Tomassini posted by Frank on 2/21/2002 at 1:17:18 AM
The only thing that may stop me from getting it is because
of my weight. It seems like a pretty light bike, and I'm
concerned about it supporting me. I currently weigh in at
350 pounds (down from 400 all due to cycling!). I currently
ride a Fuji Del-Rey, a Ross Gran Tour (both of pretty light
Ishiwata tubing) and a Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2, and all
have given me no troubles, and I currently ride between 60
and 90 miles a week. The Tomassini seems like a lighter bike
even yet. Does anyone anticipate any durability problems?
The guys at the shop assured me that it's probably stronger
than what I'm riding now. Should I snatch it up and ride it
now, or save it for when I get to my goal weight? Any thoughts??
Thanks to everyone for their help!!

   RE:RE:Tomassini posted by Dick on 2/21/2002 at 1:47:06 AM
Frank,
Congrats on your weight loss. Buy the bike. Hang it on the wall as incentive/reward for reaching a set fitness goal (say, 250lbs.). Don't cheat. It will be a well earned prize.

   durability and weight posted by John E on 2/21/2002 at 2:40:55 PM
I like Dick's suggestion. Note, however, that the cost of fine racing bikes is driven by the expensive materials (such as moly steels and aluminum alloys) and labor-intensive craftsmanship (such as silver soldering) which give them impressive strength-to-weight ratios. That feather-weight Tomassini frame was engineered and built for the rigours of European road racing (e.g. Tour de France), with rough roads, steep climbs, etc. I would not worry about the strength of the frame, although you may need a somewhat heavier-duty wheelset for now. Buy it ... you'll like it!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Commasini posted by Keith on 2/21/2002 at 6:51:44 PM
I agree with John on the wheels -- you should have wheels with at least 36 spokes. 40 on the back would be even better. I think the frame should be strong enough -- but it would be prudent to inspect it at common stress points on a weekly basis (takes about 1 minute). Look at the down tube and top tube where they join the head lugs -- is there any sign of cracking? Likewise, check the seat tube and chain stays near and around where they join the bottom bracket. Cracks can show up as hairline cracks in the paint, chipping paint, flaking paint, or a real visible crack (yikes!). Fortunately, steel tends to fail more slowly -- a crack that grows -- rather than a sudden catastphic failure some modern materials can exhibit. Also regularly inspect the crank arms for hairline cracks. Make sure the expander bolt for the stem stem is below the threads on the steerer tube -- this CAN be lower than the maximum height line.






AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by: John S on 2/20/2002 at 3:05:34 AM
On consignment, one of the most beautiful Schwinn road machines I've ever seen - called a Volare. What do you know?

Here is what I saw: Practically NOS with early (1976-78) Dura Ace groupo, chrome head lugs, fork crown, stay-ends. A bronzy-orange flamboyant colour with black transfers. Looked to be a bit more touring oriented - but arn't vintage Paramounts same by today's standards? Lugs were fairly pedestrian point-type, not at all fancy compared to Nervex Pro's. Workmanship was outstanding. I'd been willing to negotiate on the $700 asking price if the bike was in my size.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Bob Hufford on 2/20/2002 at 4:01:52 AM
More info ...

http://www.geocities.com/sldbxtralite/1978/78xlite09b.jpg

Price seems a bit steep to me. You can get a much more desireable Paramount for that money.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Tom Findley on 2/20/2002 at 12:14:14 PM
Wait 6 weeks, then buy a Continental or Varsity at a thrift store for $15-$50. Put another $50 in new tires, tubes, cables, brake pads, and grease. You'll be riding for 10 years.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Keith on 2/20/2002 at 2:43:45 PM
One of these was offered about a year ago, and the seller could not get the $500 reserve. He then lowered the reserve, but I don't recall whether it sold. A potential buyer asked the value question here, and I said about $250. I'd stand by that. It's a Japanese-made bike with early Dura Ace. It's nice, but nothing awesome. Some people, perhaps fueled by the prices of first year Continentals. seem to be looking at other Schwinn lightweights, but I personally don't see the overseas-made Schwinns as ever having collector value, simply because they are Schwinns. I've found equivalent bikes for far less. I completely agree with Bob that a better idea would be to wait and buy a nice Paramount, with real silver-brazed Nervex lugs and a nice, classic Campy Nouvo Record groupo.

   concur posted by John E on 2/20/2002 at 8:40:20 PM
I agree that $700 is WAY out of line.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Ray on 2/20/2002 at 8:42:04 PM
Any bike with a full complement of 531 tubing is not just another run of the mill bike. This cannot be compared with a Varsity as it is in a different class. I am not sure where it stands in the lineage but I'll bet if you look in this years Schwinn Catalog that it is up there with the more hi end bikes and not even close to the Varsity page. I do not believe a used one can fetch the $700 at this time but you will not find many of these at the thrift stores for $70 either.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by John S on 2/21/2002 at 3:06:22 AM
Wow, some strong opinions, which are great. I have to admit to being taken by the colour, styling and NOS-like condition. I also like the styling of the early Dura-Ace, especially the high-flange hubs.

I am lucky enough to have an original-condition 72 Schwinn Paramount and 71 Schwinn Sports Tourer, both fine bikes in their own right. I'd just not seen this Schwinn, which had to be second in their line to the Paramount as the Sports Tourer was in it's day. I agree that $700 is way too high, but it could be a primo ride for someone.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Keith on 2/21/2002 at 7:44:23 PM
I disagree with Ray on one point: Reynolds 531 does not, in and of itself, necessarily make a bike valuable. It does indicate something better than a base model. In a similar vein, that you don't find a cetain model of bike at thrift stores does not guarantee value. Aside from all that, keep in mind that the Schwinn lineup of lightweight bikes in the 70s and 80s was very unlike those of the major European lines, which each had similar models. Think of lines of Peugeot, Gitane, Motobecane, and Raleigh. They all had a progression of models with specific models that were meant to compete with certain models of cometitors' bikes in the same price range. Schwinn did not have a model that went head to head with the Peugeot PX-10 or the Gitane Tour de France. Schwinn's line had a huge gap: from the Paramount, which was more finely crafted than many top-end Euro bikes, then straight down to the early 70s Super Sport, which may have had a beautifully fillet-brazed frame, but was crippled by the ponderous Ashtebula crank -- fine for a balloner, but ridiculous on a lightweight -- and a groupo you'd expect to see on next-to-botton of the line European lightweight. So, the Volare was a fleeting attempt to fill that gap. Bottom line: $700 can by you a decent Paramount, a carefully silver-brazed bike with a rich history, or an equivalent all-Campy model by a European maker.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Ray on 2/22/2002 at 2:08:36 AM
This is what this site is all about, honest opinion and discussion. I agree with portions of what Keith says but must point out that 531 may not mean collectible value but it does mean a quality high end bike frame. The Volare is not a main tube only 531 but a full 531 frame. Also I agree that Schwinn did not compete head to head with the Euro models. But they did have a hierarchy in their line and the Volare was just under the Paramount for this year and it does not have that dreaded Ashtebula crank. I own a 72 Sports Tourer which was also that years model just under the Paramount. It was a cro moly frame with a nice alloy Stronglite crank and rings. You can see that although they did not compete with the Euro brands they did pretty well on thier own. I have been collecting for several years now and have never run into a full 531 at a flea market or thrift store not to say it may never happen. Also I have not seen may Sports Tourers or Volare bikes on ebay either. As for the Super Sport again we agree this was not a bike but a cruel joke. It is a glorified Varsity.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Schwinn Volare posted by Keith on 2/22/2002 at 1:55:31 PM
I agree with you Ray. Unlike ballooners, English 3-speed, and Stingrays, fine lightweights are seldom found at flea markets, garage sales and thrift stores. Yes, it happens, but it's rare. Most people who bought them knew their value. Finding a bargain on one is entirely possible, but it requires being linked into a very different network than those for the other kinds of bikes. The less than full retail lightweight market is found by KNOWING PEOPLE WHO RIDE, who have vintage bikes, or know others who do, and are ready to move onto something new, and value the old lightweight in a strictly utilitarian sense. TRUST ME ON THIS -- EVEN IF YOU DON'T RIDE, JOIN THE LARGEST BIKE CLUB IN YOUR AREA AND CHECK THEIR NEWSLETTER'S FOR SALE ADS. Several fine vintage bikes show up each year in ours. Old bike shops are another source. Now, let me also say that by "fine lightweight" I mean top-of-the line -- full db 531, Columbus, all Campy or equivalent top-end stuff. Once in a while I'll find an upper-mid level bike at a garage sale -- one with older Shimano 600. But that's the best I've done.






AGE / VALUE:Nice Fenders! posted by: Dick on 2/19/2002 at 7:15:05 PM
I just recieved the new fenders I ordered from NASHBAR (http://www.nashbar.com/index.cfm). They are Zefal's listed as intended for hybrid 700C bikes. They were half price ($9.95 vs. $19.95). they are 42mm wide. NASHBAR alos list's full road fenders (35mm wide) for $19.95 marked down from $24.95. I don't understand why the narrower fenders cost twice as much. They look like the same fenders otherwise. I was a little concerned when I ordered them because I intend to use the on my 27" wheeled Motobecane Grand Tourer. No problem. in their relaxed shape they would fit a 28" wheel! They are plastic, so they can be restrained down to size with the brackets, possibly even to 26". They only come in black but they are very attractive, just a plain smooth curved surface. Not like the chromey ESGE's I have on another tourer. I have no interest in NASHBAR, I just think these are a bargain you guys might want ot check out. And I've never seen them on another bike so they are a little bit unique. Actually any kind of fenders in L.A. are unique. We even take them off our English 3speeds!


   fenders separate transportation from recreational cyclsts posted by John E on 2/19/2002 at 8:31:44 PM
I use silvered-plastic mudguards on the 1959 Capo (eyelets and ample tyre clearance all around) and I am looking for a suitable set for either the 1980 Peugeot (eyelets, but somewhat tight clearances around 700Cx28 tyres) or the 1988 Schwinn KOM-10 (generous clearance around 26x1.95 knobbies, but no eyelets anywhere).

   RE:fenders separate transportation from recreational cyclsts posted by Dick on 2/20/2002 at 1:44:09 PM
John,
Check out nashbar.com. They offer the same model number that I ordered, only in 50mm width for 26" wheels in either black or silver. I temporarily fitted my 42mm width version fenders onto my early 1980's Motobecane Grand Record with 700C X 25 tires. They fit but looked a little wide over the narrow tires. I would think that the Zefal 35mm road model would work just right for you. They cost twice as much ($19.95) but I consider that to still be a good price for a very nice product. Again, I'm not pushing NASHBAR products (this was my first purchase), but these are the nicest fenders I've found for the price.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:Nice Fenders! posted by Robert on 2/22/2002 at 2:14:49 PM
Thanks for the heads up on the fenders. I ordered a silver set for my Peugeot mtb. Frame is getting new black paint and the silver fenders should look real nice.
Thanks again.






WANTED: Cyclo Benelux Rear Derailleur for hybrid gearing project posted by: Robert on 2/19/2002 at 1:47:34 PM
I am looking fo a Cyclo Benelux Rear Derailleur for a hybrid gearing project on a Dunelt. Want to make the 3 spped a 6 speed.

Does anyone have one and what are you wanting for it?

Also, what would be a correct looking shifter for it. I am trying to keep the bike "looking" period correct. Not being anal about it, just want it to "look" right.

If anyone can suggest later components that would look similar to what was used in mid to late 60's I would appreciate it.

Thanks


   RE:WANTED: Cyclo Benelux Rear Derailleur for hybrid gearing project posted by Keith on 2/19/2002 at 2:44:15 PM
Huret Alvit derailleurs would be period correct and are plentiful, but since they were used well into the 70s they won't give you that esoteric look you may be aiming for. Stronglight or similar cottered cranks would be appropriate. Brooks B-17. High flange front hub -- Campy or Normandy. Mafac Racer-style brakes have been around since the 50s, and are also plentiful. Lyotard pedals -- especially platform -- would be nice. I saw a one-sided Campy downtube shifter on eBay recently (not mine). A single Huret or Campy barcon would be nice -- these also go back to the 50s. GB bars and stem.

   RE:RE:WANTED: Cyclo Benelux Rear Derailleur for hybrid gearing project posted by Robert on 2/19/2002 at 3:58:35 PM
Let me clarify a bit. I would be fairly happy with any derailleur that was "close" to what was used then in appearance. Not really wanting to use one that is obviously made in Taiwan / Japan. I could live with one that was "not marked" if it looks basically right. Just want it to "basically" look period correct.
Same with the shifter.
Thanks


   Cyclo Benelux Rear Derailleur for hybrid gearing project posted by John E on 2/19/2002 at 6:53:50 PM
I had a Benelux bandspring derailleur and hated it, but I was running a 4-cog (12-speed) hybrid. I later switched over to a first-generation Campy Gran Sport, but kept the original Simplex-copy single shift lever. In the early 1960s, the Huret Allvit (1959) and the Campy Gran Sport (1951) were the best-shifting rear derailleurs available.

   RE:Cyclo Benelux Rear Derailleur for hybrid gearing project posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 2/22/2002 at 4:48:03 PM
Poking thru bicycle magazines from 1951 and therabouts all you see on the decent Raleigh's were the Campagnolo Gran Sport derailers.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Where are the Postings? posted by: Gralyn on 2/19/2002 at 11:14:27 AM
Not a lot of posting lately? I've been getting my feel for fixed-gear. It is quite an experience. It is certainly different. And it is taking some getting used to. It does give your legs a work-out! I can certainly see that it is going to be a benefit - toward helping me get into better shape physically. It's just amazing to me how riding a bike with fixed gear is so different than with a free hub. I guess there was really no way to really know unless I tried it.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Where are the Postings? posted by Gralyn on 2/19/2002 at 11:23:58 AM
Oh...I believe I have a ...either 46 or 47 X 17 gear set-up. I think that's it. I counted the teeth the other day - but I forgot.

   fixed gear posted by John E on 2/19/2002 at 6:57:52 PM
I briefly owned a Swedish track bike, but never did quite get the hang of fixed-gear riding in heavy Los Angeles traffic. I am still intrigued by the idea of building a multispeed noncoasting system, perhaps either something like a Sturmey ACS hub or a Campy Cambio Corsa with a lockable freewheel.

   RE:fixed gear posted by Steven on 2/20/2002 at 3:02:50 AM
John, I don't see how you could make the Campagnolo Corsa gear work with a locked freewheel. To make it work smoothly, you are almost obliged to backpedal as you shift. It will work pedalling forward but with great difficulty. If you want to try how the Corsa works some time and are in the Philly area, you can try mine out. The fix gear is the best training you can get to smooth your pedalling action out and also set up your saddle at the right height. When racing, we all used to ride fixes in the off-season and early spring.

   fixed gear posted by John E on 2/20/2002 at 2:24:46 PM
>To make it work smoothly, you are almost obliged to backpedal as you shift.

I agree. That's why I thought a clutched freewheel might work (squeeze a handbrake-like lever to coast or to change gears; release for normal riding as a fixed gear). In fact, it strikes me that a clutched single-cog freewheel might be useful, as well, to provide a best-of-both-worlds, lockable-on-the-fly freewheel (or view it, perhaps more accurately, as a releasable-on-the-fly fixed gear).

I can the see the appeal of a locked transmission, but I am unwilling to give up the multiple gear ratios I need for 12 percent grades and quick starts in heavy traffic, and freewheeling for emergency situations or simply for leaning through turns.






MISC:KiwiWayne posted by: Wings on 2/17/2002 at 6:48:15 AM
KiwiWayne:
Dude, Maybe you should get a web site!







AGE / VALUE:German "Condor" utilitarian type 6 speed posted by: Peter on 2/17/2002 at 3:09:28 AM
Hey guys,
I need some info on this bike. I tried Sheldon's but EVEN he has no info on it ! Unbelievable !
Well its a German built mixte frame 6 speed bike.
It looks like one of those bikes you see in Amsterdam.
Its silvery white in colour, 6 speed Sachs Huret Commander shifter and derailleurs, Altenburger Synchron brakes, and comes with a pump on the frame. Its for sale and I don't know how much I should 'deal' down to. It also has a DIN sticker on it and a bulldog sticker and wording on the bottom of the stem.
Here is the VIN # 05\014180Z. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated, and as always THANKS for the help !!!!!!!!!!
'Peter


   Holland contact posted by John E on 2/19/2002 at 12:11:44 AM
Please repost on bikeforums.com. A Holland-based American gent, Gary Mason, may be able to help you.






FOR SALE:kiwiwaynes sales/trades list posted by: wayne davidson on 2/17/2002 at 2:43:24 AM
Hi all, this is my current trades list. I prefer to trade to get what I
need to complete my Rigi. I can take a jpg pic of anything I have.
I have taken plenty pf pic of the main stuff, so can send a pic quick.
Payment can be made by paypal, not my account, but a friends, @ + 5%.
P&P at cost. If you have any special P&P requirements PLMK so that this
can be taken into acc when I come back to you with a total.
Sometimes I cannot fill your complete order because some items are
already sold before you odered.
I do keep this list uptodate. If I am unable to fill
your order completely and you donot wish to order anything PLMK.
As I replace some items on the Rigi the old ones will come up for
trade, i.e Campagnolo old record road pedals with steel quill, Galli rear
deraileur blah blah blah. Most parts are Italian, some french
( hey my Klein wheels are all french ) and some Suntour and only 1
Shimano.
Please enclose your postal address with an order.....regards wayne :-)

>>WAYNE'S WANTS LIST>>.
Would like items NOS, but if unable in VG/EX condition, LMK if you are
able to supply a jpg.

>>CRANKARM LH ONLY.
Galli Criterium strada 170mm. NOS ONLY PLEASE.

>>FRONT DERAILEUR.
Gian Roberts to suit a RIGI.

>>HANDLEBAR.
3ttt Record competizione? from the 80's. The bigger the better, size
wise. These are the bars that have the flattened section on the top.

>>HEADSET.
Galli taper roller bearing, italian threaded.

>>PEDALS.
Campagnolo/Galli, anything italian with a black alloy cage, even track.
Campagnolo SL Pista/track LH only.

>>TOECLIPS.
Cinelli/Ale black large alloy.
Galli Ti large.



>>TRADES LIST>>.

All parts NOS unless otherwise stated.
SH = Second hand, sometimes I have had a chance to clean, dissmantle and
reassemble, sometimes not.

Only 1 Shimano item, otherwise a Shimano free zone.

>>BOTTOM BRACKET AXLE.
BA1001. Campagnolo track. NOS. $20.00

>>BOTTOM BRACKET.
BB1001. Galli tapered roller brg. ENG. NOS. $50.00
BB1002. FAG NADAX Favorit. IT. NOS Boxed. $70.00
BB1003. OMAS Ti IT threaded replica alloy lockrings. Has been mounted.
$60.00
BB1004. FAG plastic cart type. ENG. SH. $4.00

>>BOTTOM BRACKET CUPS.
BC1001. Campagnolo alloy cart cups. ENG. No lockrings. SH?. $5.00
BC1002. Campagnolo alloy BB French threads. NOS. $40.00

>>BOTTOM BRACKET SLEEVE.
BS1001. Campagnolo 1 piece. NOS. $2.00
BS1002. Simplex 1 piece. NOS. $1.00
BS1003. Unknown 1 piece. NOS. $1.00

>>BOTTOM BRACKET LOCKRINGS.
BL1001. Galli steel a little spanner rash IT threaded. Pair SH. $4.00
BL1002. Alloy OMAS copies IT threaded. Pair NEW. $15.00
BL1003. Alloy OMAS copies IT threaded. Single NEW. $8.00
BL1004. Alloy OMAS copies IT threaded. Single NEW. $8.00

>>BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS.
BG1001. OMAS BB Bearing. NOS. $10.00
BG1002. OMAS BB Bearing. NOS. $10.00

>>BRAKES.
BR1001. Modolo professional silver levers have no hoods. SH. $25.00
BR1002. Modolo modern speedy silver, no pads, no levers & no cables. NOS.
$15.00

>>BRAKE CABLES.
BC1001. Modolo flash grey. NOS IN PACKET. $20.00

>>BRAKE LEVERS.
BL1001. Modolo Flash Pink INT hoods. Pr. NOS. $10.00
BL1002. Modolo Orion. RH body cracked Hoods not the best. Identical to
Kronos except for colour. SH boxed. $15.00
BL1003. Modolo Professional beadblasted. No hoods. SH. $4.00

>>BRAKE LEVER HOODS.
BH1001. Modolo int Pink. Pr. NOS. $5.00

>>BRAKE PARTS.
BP1001. OMAS alloy campagnolo nuts Silver 4 shoe mount, 2 dome & 2
mounting. NOS. $20.00
BP1002. Modolo shoeclip. NOS Pr. $2.00
BP1003. Modolo shoeclip. SH Pr. $1.00
BP1004. Modolo shoe mounting bolt with nut. SH Pr. $1.00
BP1005. Modolo shoe mounting bolt. SH Pr. $1.00
BP1006. Campagnolo brake lever clip similar to #2033. NOS. $4.00
BP1007. Campagnolo brakeshoe nut PAIR #2022. NOS. $4.00
BP1008. Campagnolo brakeshoe nut #2022. NOS. $2.00
BP1009. Campagnolo cable clamp #2013. NOS. $2.00
BP1010. Campagnolo cable clamp #2013. NOS. $2.00
BP1011. Campagnolo centre bolt front #2012. SH. $2.00
BP1012. Campagnolo centre bolt rear #2012/1. NOS. $5.00
BP1013. Campagnolo brake cam #2005. NOS. $4.00
BP1014. Campagnolo concave washer #2041. NOS. $2.00
BP1015. Campagnolo concave washer #2041. NOS. $2.00
BP1016. Campagnolo concave washer #2041. NOS. $2.00
BP1017. Campagnolo adjusting screw #2009. PAIR NOS. $4.00
BP1018. Campagnolo adjusting screw #2009. PAIR NOS. $4.00
BP1019. Campagnolo adjusting screw #2009. PAIR NOS. $4.00
BP1020. Campagnolo adjusting screw #2009. PAIR NOS. $4.00
BP1021. Campagnolo adjusting screw #2009. PAIR NOS. $4.00
BP1022. Campagnolo adjusting screw #2009. NOS. $2.00

>>CASSETTE PARTS.
CS1001. Campagnolo cassette lockring nut. NOS. $2.00
CS1002. Campagnolo cassette lockring nut. NOS. $2.00
CS1003. Campagnolo cassette lockring nut. SH. $1.00
CS1004. Campagnolo cassette lockring nut. SH. $1.00

>>CHAINRINGS.
CR1001. Galli 42T silver. SH. $5.00
CR1002. Galli 52T silver. SH. $5.00
CR1003. Ofmega 47T. SH. $5.00
CR1004. T.A Cyclotourist Outer 54T - 6 bolt. SH. $5.00
CR1004. T.A Cyclotourist Inner 46T - 6 bolt. SH. $5.00

>>CHAINRING BOLTS.
CB1001. Campagnolo steel. #754/755. Set 5. SH. $5.00
CB1002. Campagnolo steel. #754/755. 3 only. NOS. $10.00
CB1003. Galli steel. Set 5. SH. $4.00

>>CRANKSET.
CS1001. Galli Criterium strada 170mm 52/42T with OMAS black alloy
chainring bolts. SH. RH CRANKARM ONLY. $30.00
CS1002. Campagnolo chorus 170mm 53/42T with dustcaps. SH. $40.00
CS1003. Galli track c/w set of 5 NOS allot bolts. NOS. $50.00

>>CRANKARM BOLTS.
CB1001. Shimano one key release. Pr. SH. $2.00
CB1002. Suntour chrome. NOS Pr. $2.00
CB1003. Suntour chrome. NOS Pr. $2.00
CB1004. Campagnolo chrome. SH. $1.00
CB1004. Campagnolo chrome. Painted pair. SH. $2.00

>>F DERAILEUR.
FD1001. Campagnolo NR 3 hole clamp. #0104007. SH. $15.00
FD1002. Campagnolo Road unknown other than modern with painted body. OS
Band. SH. $10.00
FD1003. Campagnolo modern (90's) road Chorus?. Missing cable clamp
bolt/washer. SH. $10.00
FD1004. Huret unknown model, all steel. Missing front clamp. NOS. $5.00
FD1005. Suntour Cyclone. Has modified top arm. Good for parts. SH. $5.00
FD1006. Suntour Superbe. Has non org cable clamp bolt, Boxed. SH. $5.00
FD1007. Simplex Super LJ?. Alloy body, steel cage and arms. NOS. $8.00

>>FRONT DERAILEUR PARTS.
FP1001. Campagnolo SR/NR locking screw #89. NOS. $1.00
FP1002. Campagnolo SR/NR locking screw #89. NOS. $1.00
FP1003. Campagnolo SR/NR cage spanner bolt #215. NOS. $2.00
FP1004. Campagnolo SR/NR washer #780. NOS. $2.00
FP1005. Campagnolo SR/NR washer #780. NOS. $2.00
FP1006. Campagnolo modern braze on concave washer/bolt. NOS. $4.00
FP1007. Campagnolo modern braze on concave washer/bolt. NOS. $4.00
FP1008. Campagnolo modernish adj screw and spring set of 2 #1134130.
NOS. $1.00

>>REAR DERAILEUR.
RD1001. Campagnolo SR 1977. SH. Only good for a paperweight, has been
badly crashed & repaired, missing pullies and inner cage. $20.00
RD1002. Huret Challanger?, all steel. NOS. $10.00
RD1003. Suntour New Skitter. All steel missing cable clamp bolt.
NOS. $10.00
RD1004. Zeus alfa junior. Has been mounted. NOS. $15.00
RD1005. Galli Criterium (Blue), has new sealed Brg pulley's, looks like
Campagnolo SR. SH. $20.00

>>REAR DERAILEUR HARDWARE.
DP1001. Campagnolo SR sideplate bush & rivat. #808/A. NOS. $5.00
DP1002. Campagnolo Rally Touring Inner cage plate. NOS. $10.00
DP1003. Campagnolo SR/NR gear return spring #98/A. NOS. $10.00
DP1004. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $10.00
DP1005. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $10.00
DP1006. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $10.00
DP1007. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $10.00
DP1008. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $10.00
DP1009. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $10.00
DP1010. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. NOS. $2.00
DP1011. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. NOS. $2.00
DP1012. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle/bush #808/A. NOS. $2.00
DP1013. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $4.00
DP1014. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $4.00
DP1015. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $4.00
DP1016. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $4.00
DP1017. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle #808/A. Set of 4. NOS. $4.00
DP1018. Campagnolo SR/NR spindle #808/A. NOS. $1.00
DP1019. Campagnolo rear stay cable clip #170. NOS. $3.00
DP1020. Campagnolo horizontal stay clip #636. NOS. $3.00
DP1021. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1022. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1023. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1024. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1025. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1026. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1027. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1028. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1029. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1030. Campagnolo fixing screw #124 can be used as #89 or #7350002.
NOS. $1.00
DP1031. Campagnolo 22mm cable clip #149. NOS. $2.00
DP1032. Campagnolo 22mm cable clip #149. NOS. $2.00
DP1033. Campagnolo 22mm cable clip #149. NOS. $2.00
DP1034. Campagnolo unknown cable clamp washer. NOS. $1.00
DP1035. Campagnolo twin cable guide downtube, no clampbolt,
rear cableguide is a tube #626. SH. $5.00
DP1036. OMAS alloy black Campagnolo SR mounting & pivot bolt. NOS. $20.00

>>REAR DERAILEUR PULLEYS.
RP1001. Campagnolo SR. #0010/03. SH Pr. $5.00
RP1002. Campagnolo SR. #0010/03. SH Pr 1 pulley altered to 9 tooth. $5.00
RP1003. Campagnolo white. SH Pr. $2.00
RP1004. Simplex black plastic. SH. $2.00

>>DERAILEUR LEVERS.
GL1001. Campagnolo SR LH lever only. #602. NOS. $7.50
GL1002. Cyclo alloy with campagnolo adj screws. SH Pr. $4.00
GL1003. Suntour modern. BO. NOS. $4.00
GL1004. Suntour Symmetric. SH missing clamp. $2.00
GL1005. Campagnolo RH/LH plate alloy #600/2&611/2. SH. $1.00
GL1006. Campagnolo RH/LH plate alloy #600/2&611/2. SH. $1.00
GL1007. Campagnolo RH/LH plate alloy #600/2&611/2. SH. $1.00
GL1008. Campagnolo RH/LH plate alloy #600/2&611/2. SH. $1.00
GL1009. Campagnolo LH plate #611/2. SH. $0.50
GL1010. Campagnolo adj wing nut #604/1 PAIR. NOS. $5.00
GL1011. Campagnolo cover #0190/03. SH PAIR. $1.00
GL1012. Campagnolo friction washer #0190/06. SH. $0.50
GL1013. Campagnolo levers RH/LH #601/602. SH. $4.00
GL1014. Campagnolo levers RH/LH #601/602. SH. $4.00
GL1015. Campagnolo downtube cable stops only one adj screw comes with
mounting screws. NOS. $5.00
GL1016. Campagnolo downtube cable stop, don't know which side.
SH. $1.00
GL1017. Campagnolo downtube single lever no clampbolt #1013/1 real nice
cond. SH. $10.00
GL1018. Campagnolo bar con cmp b/t shaft nut #511. Pair NOS. $4.00
GL1019. OMAS RH/LH plate alloy silver. NOS. $4.00
GL1020. Simplex painted diecast. BO. RH. NOS. $2.00

>>FREEWHEEL.
FW1001. Regina Extra America 12-17T. NOS Tinned. $25.00
FW1002. Regina Futura. NOS Boxed. $100.00
FW1003. Suntour Ultra 6 13-14-15-16-17-18. SH. $10.00
FW1004. Suntour Ultra 7 12-13-14-15-16-17-21. SH. $10.00
FW1005. Suntour AG 7 speed. 13-14-15-16-17-19-21. NOS. $25.00
FW1006. Everest 16-19 4 speed a little damage to 1 removal slot.
SH. $10.00
FW1007. Suntour AG 7 speed. 13-14-15-16-17-18-19. SH. $10.00
FW1008. Suntour micro lite. 12-19T with tool. NOS Boxed. $60.00

>>FREEWHEEL SPROCKETS.
Suntour ultra ( silver ). ALL NOS. all $1.00 unless otherwise specified.
Suntour AG ( brown ). All NOS. all $1.00
A17-5
A18-4
A19-2
A22-1
P14-1
S13-5
S14-2
T15-2
X13-1 $5.00
X14-2 $5.00
X15-1 $5.00
LMK what you are after.

>>HANDLEBARS.
HB1001. Cinelli Giro de italia mod64.42cm. Single groove. Have been
mounted but not used. SH. $20.00
HB1002. 3TTT comp, cut down to cowhorn. SH. $5.00

>>HANDLEBAR STEM.
ST1001. Cinelli steel track. 125mm, Surface rust, I have not attempted to
clean, nice. SH. $10.00
ST1002. Cinelli XA 100mm. SH. $10.00
ST1003. 3ttt record road. 125mm. SH. $5.00
ST1004. Modolo Q-Even multilink silver 120mm. SH. $20.00

>>HANDLEBAR STEM HARDWARE.
SB1001. 2x Cinelli badge screws. SH. $2.00
SB1002. OMAS alloy black Cinelli binder bolt. NOS. $15.00

>>HEADSET.
HS1001. Campagnolo Record ENG. #1039. SH. $10.00

>>HUBS.
HB1001. Suntour Superbe road small flange 36 hole w/o QR. SH. $10.00
HB1002. Zeus LF rear alloy 40 hole, missing bearings w/o QR. SH. $5.00

>>HUB HARDWARE.
HH1001. Suntour Superbe cones. NOS Pr. $5.00
HH1002. Suntour Superbe cones. NOS Pr. $5.00

>>HUB Q/R.
QR1001. Azzurro steel rear with axle. SH. $2.00
QR1002. OMAS Front. Bit of rust on lever and endcap cracked. Has been
used for wheelbuilding purposes. NOS. $5.00
QR1003. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1004. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1005. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1006. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1007. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1008. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1009. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1010. Campagnolo conical adjuster, modernish. SH. $1.00
QR1011. Campagnolo modernish endhousing/lever. NOS. $4.00
QR1012. Campagnolo endhousing as above. NOS. $1.00
QR1013. Campagnolo knurled adj nut #1307. SH. $2.00
QR1014. Campagnolo knurled adj nut #1307. SH. $2.00
QR1015. Mallard rear QR no springs plastic endnut. SH. $4.00
QR1016. Campagnolo rear straight lever rusty & end of shaft has a little
bend. SH. $5.00
QR1017. Campagnolo old record rear QR #1006/8. SH. $10.00
QR1018. Campagnolo conical spring #18. NOS per pair. $2.00
QR1019. Campagnolo conical spring #18. NOS per pair. $2.00
QR1020. Campagnolo conical spring #18. NOS per pair. $2.00
QR1021. Campagnolo conical spring #18. NOS per pair. $2.00
QR1022. OMAS rear missing lever nut lever very rusty endnut missing wire.
SH. $2.00
QR1023. Ofmega rear has campagnolo endnut. SH. $2.00

>>MODEL KITSET.
KT1001. Protar 1/9 #192 Raleigh Team Panasonic. NEW Boxed. $20.00

>>PEDALS.
PD1001. Campagnolo platform athena. Only good for parts. SH. $5.00
PD1002. Ofmega platform. SH. $5.00
PD1003. Suntour cyclone track ( Superbe lookalike ). SH. $10.00
PD1004. Suntour Superbe Pro track pedals. NOS IN BOX. $50.00

>>PEDAL PARTS.
PP1001. Campagnolo dustcap, metal. SH. $4.00

>>PUMP.
PU1001. Silca impero frame fit. Yellow 52.5 cm (22 5/8") as it sits.
NOS. $10.00

>>PUMP CLIP.
PC1001. Campagnolo #632. NOS. $3.00

>>PUMP KIT.
PK1001. Zefal. #87R. NOS. $2.00

>>SEAT.
SE1001. Selle italia XO. Black fake buffalo skin. SH. $5.00

>>SEAT BINDER BOLT.
SB1001. Sugino steel. NOS. $2.00
SB1002. Chrome steel. NOS. $2.00

>>SEATPOST.
SP1001. Campagnolo NR 26.2 mm x 180mm. Late model with alloy cradles.
#1044. NOS Old yellow box. $50.00
SP1002. SMT alloy 27.0mm. Missing steel hardware. SH. $5.00
SP1003. SR Custom 26.2mm. Has been installed below max line Campagnolo NR
lookalike. SH. $12.00
SP1004. ZEUS 2 bolt 26.4mm SH. $10.00

>>SEATPOST HARDWARE.
SH1001. Campagnolo NR type alloy cradles. #701/702. SH Pr. $5.00
SH1002. Campagnolo NR F clamp/bolt/nut assy. #698/700/703. SH. $2.00
SH1003. Campagnolo NR R clamp/bolt/nut assy. #699/700/703. SH. $2.00
SH1004. Campagnolo NR bolt/nut assy. #700/703. NOS. $5.00
SH1005. Campagnolo NR bolt/nut assy. #700/703. NOS. $5.00
SH1006. Campagnolo NR nut #700. NOS. $2.00
SH1006. Campagnolo NR nut #700. NOS. $2.00

>>TOECLIPS.
TC1001. ALE small dural black. NOS Boxed. $10.00
TC1002. Minoura gold LL. SH. $5.00
TC1003. Campagnolo alloy small modern blue box ( empty box only ). $1.00
TC1004. Mira black alloy size LL. 1 only SH. $1.00
TC1005. Brunetti black alloy size M. 1 only NOS. $3.00

>>TOESTRAPS.
TS1001. Binda. NOS Packaged. Tan. $10.00

>>TOESTRAP BUTTONS.
TB1001. Reg round black. SH. $1.00
TB1002. Black round with yellow swirl stickers. NOS. $2.00
TB1002. Grey round. NOS. $2.00
TB1003. Chrome plated rectangular. Rainbow stripes. NOS. $2.00
TB1004. Chrome plated rectangular. Red/white/blue/white stripes.
NOS. $2.00

>>TOOLS.
TL1001. Campagnolo T wrench. # 143/2. SH. $4.00
TL1002. T.A. crank remover. SH. $4.00

>>WATER BOTTLE CAGE.
WC1001. Cobra black alloy. SH. $4.00

Wayne Davidson
P.O.Box 6084
Invercargill 9515
NEW ZEALAND.
I am a 38 yr old Single, Diesel mechanic, who collects Hot wheels, NZ
Glass fizz bottles, Lamborghini, NZ non sport gum cards, KISS, Italian
bike parts junkie, enjoys music and a good rude joke while having a nice
cold speights beer & proud owner of KLEIN Quantum & Rigi road bicycles.
E-MAIL wayne.collect@xtra.co.nz
Phone# on request only.
This has been processed on a Macintosh Performa 5260, made by Apple.


   RE:FOR SALE:kiwiwaynes sales/trades list posted by Fred on 2/17/2002 at 5:08:54 PM
And I was reluctant to post an opinion piece I have written on road riding in the modern world because it is a little long. I respecfully submit that a list as long as the one here should not be posted on a forum. Rather a URL for a seperate page should be posted.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:kiwiwaynes sales/trades list posted by Dick on 2/18/2002 at 4:26:46 PM
Fred,
I couldn't agree more. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to list a few items that I am eager to locate (or offer), this listing is, by any measure, excessive and inappropriate for a "discussion area".

   RE:FOR SALE:kiwiwaynes sales/trades list posted by Keith on 2/19/2002 at 2:38:12 PM
I also would rather see a one or two line post with a reference to a seperate website. It's okay to post a few things for sale, but this inventory list is excessive, IMO.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:kiwiwaynes sales/trades list posted by BillG on 2/19/2002 at 4:51:06 PM
Dang, I agree, too. That was excessive. That felt like being spammed.

   RE:FOR SALE:WAYNE YOU ARE A MORON! posted by Jones on 2/19/2002 at 9:26:04 PM
THATS RIGHT! A MORON.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:WAYNE YOU ARE A MORON! posted by wayne davidson on 2/21/2002 at 10:06:15 AM
I regrettly have to reply to this person, who feels the need to insult me, even thou he has never met me, its a shame that there are people like this reading this on this dicussion forum, so I made a mistake about sending my full list to the list, hey i'm human, but the person who felt abliged to insult me must prefer the company of dogs to that of humans, does not sound like a caring human type to me, sorry for this posting in advance, I shall refrain from any more postings as I feel that there are to many people on this with potatoe councils disease, good luck with your future lives however they may turn out...cio wayne...

   RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:WAYNE YOU ARE A MORON! posted by Vindicator on 2/21/2002 at 11:13:31 AM
In English and spellchecked Wayne?

   RE:FOR SALE:   kiwiwaynes sales/trades list posted by john on 11/3/2006 at 6:27:03 PM
wondering if you still have parts for modolo speedy brakes. i need some of the fasteners to clamp the cable to the brake?
by: 24.46.8.222






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Fixed Gear Conversion posted by: Gralyn on 2/15/2002 at 4:20:55 PM
Well, I tinkered around - and I finally got my old Hercules converted into a fixed gear. I took a set of wheels (old Rigida, with an old shimano hub) and fixed it up with a fixed gear. It's really weird how I did it - I'm not going to say how I did it - because I haven't had enough road time to really test it out. But so far - it works. I put a brake on the front wheel - for added safety. It is certainly a different experience - with the fixed gear! I hope to do some riding this weekend - weather permitting - then I will know more how it works


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Fixed Gear Conversion posted by Keith on 2/15/2002 at 6:33:10 PM
Keep us posted. What gear are you using? When I was a kid I rode a 50 x 14 on the track. I've been pretty happy with my latest setup of 46 x 17, which results in a mid-range gear of 73 inches. Local bike messengers tend to push really big gears, but even they admit it's a macho thing among them. Remember the safety tips listed in an earlier post!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Raleigh "Royal" ?? posted by: Tom C on 2/15/2002 at 5:11:52 AM

Hi Folks, I've acquired a Raleigh that I can't ID and i'm hoping
that one of you can. Here's what I know about it:

<> Ser # is WL3001017 - which, as I understand the code, suggests that
it's a '73 That would gybe w/ the Weinmann Brake levers & the "Raleigh
610 / Weinmann" ctr pull calipers that came on the bike.
<> The seat tube sticker says: "531 Butted tubing" The forks have "531
Fork Stays" stickers
<> It has Suntour dropouts - short horiz. in rear
<> BB shell was made from seamed tubing - not a casting
<> 26.4 seatpost
<> the weight of the bare (58 c-c)frame is 4.95 lbs on my kitchen scale
(which may be + or - 2 lbs!)
<> has W/B braze-ons on the downtube - single eyelets on ft/rear
dropouts - brake cable guides on top of the toptube
<> Seatstays are fluted at seat tube lug
<> Lugs are simple - not ornate. The seat tube lug and the upper &
lower head tube lugs have a large "teardrop" cutout in them.
<> The downtube has "Raleigh" in ornate script on both sides and the
toptube has the word "Royal" in the same script.

I've never heard of a "Raleigh Royal". Can anyone shed any light on
this? If so where does this fit in the Raleigh spectrum?

Tom C



   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Raleigh posted by Warren on 2/15/2002 at 12:59:33 PM
Did you go to http://www.speakeasy.org/'tabula/raleigh/raleigh-models.html? Raleighs aren't my specialties but there was a higher end model that started sourcing out Japanese made frames even though they were assembled in England. (Comp GS?) Maybe yours was for a "special market".

Good luck

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Raleigh posted by Keith on 2/15/2002 at 6:16:44 PM
Suntour Dropouts were not used on Raleighs until the late 70s. Can't be a 1973. I suspect it's Japanese-made, late 70s -early 80s. Check the headbadge -- does it say "Nottingham England"?

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Raleigh posted by Tom C on 2/16/2002 at 6:35:39 AM

Thanks for replying. Here's a few more pieces of data:

<> Heron badge w/ "Nottingham England" at the bottom
<> A "Union Jack" sticker at the base of the seat tube that says: "Made in England"
<> ugly (faded) Peasoup green
<> bottom 1/2 of forks are chromed - nothing else
<> had GB stem - SR "Custom" cranks - Suntour 7 Ft Der. - ancient steel & alloy Suntour R Der.
<> flat fork crown
<> seat tube and downtube have blk & gold pinstriped "panels" painted on
<> in the middle of the seat tube "panel" there's a "R R" in script that I didn't notice before

Does that help at all?

Tom C

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Raleigh posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 2/16/2002 at 7:17:09 PM
I have old catalogs from Raleigh of Canada that show various models for that market but I'm afraid the retro Raleigh's site might not want to post it. I'll try them, we'll see. There is a Royal or a Royale model shown but it is not anything to get excited about. Still, I hope to see this scanned and posted to help out others in figuring it all out.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Raleigh posted by bikr on 2/21/2002 at 6:48:39 PM
sounds like 1973-1977 or 78






AGE / VALUE:Herse crank on e- bay 1074202570, usual high price fetched posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 2/15/2002 at 1:15:11 AM
I have been there four hours, everything is pulled out and I'm diggng with my mind scanning what to bring home, what to leave there. He asks "What is it you are looking for?" I say to him. "I'll know it when I see it." I keep looking and looking. It's a numbers game, enough shops, enough cranks, enough patience and the unwavering belief in chance and luck. What am I looking for you wonder? Well, they look like this,( e- bay item # 1074202570) they say "Rene Herse"
With a branding iron, it's been in the forefront of my mind, another fresh brand that still stings is Raleigh Choppers and the parts for them, a series of shop chants if you will. Lift the heavy, dirty box and whisper "Rene Herse" I hold it up and exclaim "No S--T!" I look about and tell myself that this place wouldn't yeild that part. Not here! But there it is! I had to work for it.
No relation to seller, not my auction.







AGE / VALUE:John Deere 3-speed ? posted by: Dan on 2/15/2002 at 12:00:13 AM
I was asked by a co-worker to find the value of his fathers John Deere. His family owned a J.D. tractor dealership up until the early 70's. This bike has never been ridden as it was put into a display case when new and now sit's in a garage attic after the family sold their dealership. Any guesses on a price range for this never used two-wheeler!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:John Deere 3-speed ? posted by Keith on 2/15/2002 at 6:18:45 PM
There is at least one person in this world who collects John Deere 3-speeds. I've seen several up close, and can only guess that his reason is that he also collects tractors and farming memorabilia. The bikes are below par compared to a generic English 3-speed. I'd value it at about $25.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:John Deere 3-speed ? posted by ken on 2/15/2002 at 6:53:05 PM
Bear in mind that condition is everything to a collector. Don't undervalue this; wait for the name plate to attract the right buyer. It will be more interesting to John Deere collectors than bike experts, because as stated above, it's not a great rider. However, there used to be a guy with web site (I haven't seen it lately) who specialized in JD bikes.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:John Deere 3-speed ? posted by Dan on 2/16/2002 at 3:21:20 AM
Thanks for your comment's, after talking with the owner of this J.D. he now say's it is a 5-speed and it has never been ridden, and I told him if he were to sell he would likely get more from a J.D. Tractor collector than a bike collector, I was at a farm auction where a 1938 J.D. tractor manual went for $275, I was shocked! I went home with two 1948 Western Flyer's(his-n-her's) for $50.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:John Deere 3-speed ? posted by Walter on 2/16/2002 at 4:43:08 AM
I ran across that JD bike site, or one just lke it anyways. I didn't save the link as the bikes didn't really blow any wind up my skirt, figuratively speaking.

3, 5 and 10 speeds. The 10 speeds looked like Varsities. I've only seen pictures so I can't say much about quality. I think I found the site by typing "john deere bicycles" into the Yahoo search engine.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:John Deere 3-speed ? posted by Brian on 2/17/2002 at 6:02:34 AM
John Deere bicycles of that vintage usually sell for around $100 to $250. But if it is mint as described it may go for more but as discussed probably to a tractor collector. Those bikes were made in Taiwan and the only value is the John Deere name. J D made bicycles from the turn of the century but those are very rare.






AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by: Dick on 2/14/2002 at 8:44:58 PM
Well, I haven't been able to get onto this discussion group for a few days. So I thought I might as well poke around the site just to see what's new. Our host had a very nicely equipped Peugeot for sale (and it was already sold when I saw it). Just the wheels and the Stronglight cranks are worth the $125 selling price. I hope it went to someone who really wanted to ride the bike. There are so many dismantlers around. There seems to be quite a few on ebay making a living at it. They pick up a nice original bike, disassemble it and list all of the components on ebay. More than once I've looked at, say a nice Brooks saddle, clicked on "see my other auctions" and found the entire parts list for something like a 1972 Raleigh International, up for auction; one component at a time. I suppose these guys are doing us collectors and enthusiasts a service. It just seems such a pity to tear down all of those nice bikes. Anybody know where I can get a nice 25.2mm diameter seatpost for my old Raleigh Grand Prix?


   dismantlers posted by John E on 2/14/2002 at 9:15:41 PM
... and I wonder how many people buy one of these stripped frames, then scrounge around eBay for parts to complete an "original equipment" bike. Older cars are often worth more when parted out; I suppose the same is generally true of bicycles.

   RE:dismantlers posted by Dick on 2/14/2002 at 10:58:48 PM
Right you are, John. Here I am, trying to restore my early 70's Dawes Galaxy. I started with just the frame. I was given a very nice Raleigh Grand Prix that I was certian I was going to use as a donor bike. But after i got it home, I just fell in love with the workmanship on this nice old Dutch-built frame with the full wrap-over seat stays and the delicate little rear curve-rod brake cable stop. So now I'm only a seatpost and Wrights saddle away from a very nice old ride. And still no parts for the 531 tubed Dawes. I had to pass on a GB handlebar engraved "Dawes" for $40 on ebay. I just can't afford that. If anyone in this group is the seller, please take pity. I need those bars more than you need the $40. And, BTW, where is the rest of that Dawes? It probably came off of my frame you cannibal! Please excuse the vent, all.

   RE:RE:dismantlers posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 2/15/2002 at 1:33:33 AM
I remember the old Ad "Get your pleasure from Dawes"
They meant to go out and ride it, keep it nice and buy another Dawes next time. Not take the blasted thing apart and sell the bits! Still, this happens.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by John S on 2/15/2002 at 1:49:50 AM
When I got more involved with the lightweight vintage hobby, I started assembling parts, odd frame, eventually things would come together to form a whole bike, very slow but satisfying. Well then a friend showed me a little card he carried around in his wallet - he had a listing of all the components on a bike and a typical price he paid for each, summed to a complete bike price. He had discovered that it is less expensive to buy whole bikes, and less profitable to sell whole bikes, e-bay parts prices amaze me. So now I try to buy old bikes in need of refurbishing, and am very picky about buying parts. Amazing to me is that you can buy whole bikes to get a part that would sell for far more than the bike cost.
Case in point, I purchased a 1969 Raleigh SuperCourse at a giant benefit rummage sale for $15. It was complete, but a bit weathered, no-one was paying it much attention because it looked to need some work, but it had a Brooks Pro saddle. Well the saddle cleaned up beautifully. As for the SuperCourse...cleaned it up and converted to a single-speed and it sold for $70 likity-split! I'm certain I could not have sold it that easily as a 10-speed.

   RE:RE:RE:dismantlers - The Last Word! posted by Dick on 2/15/2002 at 2:24:21 PM
After my last posting about the Dawes handlebar I watched the auction end with no bidders. I thought perhaps the seller would still be interested in making a sale. So, I sent off an email to him through ebay in an attempt to open a one-on-one negotiation. I reprint that brief intercourse here:
"I'm actually inquirying about your Dawes bars, ebay item #1803410246. I think $40 is a little high and apparently everyone else thought so also. Make me an offer I can't refuse. Please include shipping cost to Los Angeles.
Thanks for considering,
Dick"

And the seller's reply:
"Richard, we feel that these rare bars are actually worth more than $40.00!!. Watch our auctions, we will re-list after aging them a bit more." (Seller's Name)

What a shame. Meanwhile, 2 different Cinelli bar/stem combo's I'm watching are hovering at around $12. Thank God I'm not looking for a crankset for a Rene Herse!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by Keith Mayton on 2/15/2002 at 6:26:54 PM
This hobby stays fun and cheap for me because I avoid buying "correct" parts at a premium -- if they fall into my lap for next to nothing -- and they sometimes do -- then fine. There are sometimes good reasons to part out stuff. Frames can be hopeless -- cracked, rusted, not at all worth restoring, but the parts may be great. I finally took all of the Campy NR stuff off the Cannondale I never rode, and plan to use it to "restore" my Mercian Professional to something close to it's original glory. I figure I have about $100 in the entire group. But buying it piece by piece on eBay, or holding out for 1972/73 parts -- FORGET IT! (The Cannondale is now a fixed gear I set up for a friend -- it worked despite the vertical dropouts). But I have avoided parting out complete bikes in excellent condition. Just seems wrong.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by Dick on 2/15/2002 at 7:14:06 PM
I pretty much agree with everything you said Keith. I think what I get upset about (and have no right to) is the difference between the enthusiasts on this site and some of the sellers on ebay and elsewhere. If I have a somewhat unique component, and I locate someone with a bike that that component really belongs on, I see it as an opportunity to make things right in the universe and see if we can't work it out so the component gets on the bike it belongs on. Then there are the canibals that only see this senario as an opportunity to to make maximum profit. I don't mean to say that the guy with the Rene Herse crankset shouldn't be getting big bucks for it. It was a big buck item when it was new.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by Keith on 2/15/2002 at 8:31:22 PM
There's a Stronglight crank on its way up now too. Anyway, there are still many who will trade the good stuff very reasonably -- someone came to my immediate rescue a month ago when I asked about a Campy Italian-thread BB -- sent it right away, no questions asked. He might have gotten $25 or so for it on eBay, but we ended up trading parts of equivalent value. Also keep in mind, the current eBay market is being created by relatively few people, and the interest in collecting vintage bike stuff is not, and I believe never will, take the world by storm. It's pure escoterica. Although the stuff isn't being made any more, the same can be said of most of what has been made over the last 50 years. Ebay creates superficial if not artificial markets -- I think the bubble could burst on these folks for some of these post-war bike parts. Old isn't necessarily valuable, collectable, classic, or even interesting.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by Stacey on 2/16/2002 at 1:10:39 PM
I've read the above thread with great interest, and feel compelled to offer my spin on this fiasco.

You see, I'm an eBay seller. I've offererd quite a few nice bikes (ones that need a bit of attention, but nothing major like a frame re-do or such) at a starting bid of $9.95, knowing full well that the bikes were worth considerably more. Ya know what I got for the bikes? Yep, $9.95! The buyer got a great deal and I took a bath!

What comes to mind most clearly was a mid 60's Schwinn Breeze. I real nice chrome and components, frame in good shape for the years but the fenders being as they are had seen their share of abuse. I listed it at $9.95. Got a 'Question for Seller' asking if we'd just ship the chainguard should he win. I replied yes, it would be his bike and I ship as much or as little as he wanted. Well, he won the auction for $9.95 and what he wanted shipped was everything but the frame and fenders. He even asked that I take off the fender stays and ship them too. So, let's see, I paid $10.00 for the bike, spent 3 hours cleaning the bike and making it safe to ride. Spent another 3 hours dis-assembling the bike, wrapping the pieces, and packing the parts only to realize a return of $9.95 MINUS listing and final value fees! What's wrong with this picture?

Recently, I decided to become a "canibal", figuring If I'm going to take a bike apart so someone can cherry pick the parts, I'm gonna get paid for my time. I had a mid 70's Schwinn Super Sport, a sweet bike but the frame was in rough shape (chipped paint and faded decals) my logic, after the above ordeal, in deciding to strip it down and part it out was thus... there are far more people out there needing a certian widget to complete their project, than there are people looking to start another project. These pieces were started at realistic prices ($3.00 - $10.00) and a good value at that level. You know what happened? I sold everything and made more money than I did selling the entire bike in the prior scenario. Now, please tell me just whose fault is it? Mine for giving the buyers what they want? I think not. Demand drives the market. Why do you think Dick, that just because I (or anyone else) have a part that you need that we should feel obligated to sell it to you for a price you want to pay? The last time I was at the supermarket, I saw a steak that was priced at over $6.00 a pound... they had PLENTY of them, would the Store Manager bargian down with me to $1.79 a pound because I could only afford hamburger but wanted steak? Nope, not on your life? This mentality is rampant in the hobbyist/enthusiast markets. Wa Wa Wa Wa... I want it but don't want to pay that price, so & so has it for $10.00 cheaper. To that I say, either buy it from so & so, or do without this is my price. Is $40.00 a fair price for the bars in question? I don't know I'm not at all familiar. Aparrently not or they would have sold. But that's not always a good indicator either. Perhaps, there wasn't anyone there who wanted them, except for you and you didn't want to pay his price... You're right you have no right to be upset, so get over it and move on.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by Oscar on 2/17/2002 at 4:14:22 AM
It's hilarious that you made so much off the Super Sport parts because most of the parts are the same that you can get off of a Continental or Varsity. Still, the aluminum stems were so sweet and if it had a Brooks B-15, even better.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:1982 Peugeot posted by Stacey on 2/17/2002 at 6:50:15 PM
Hey, I don't ask questions Oscar... I just cash the checks. LOL!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Chain Removal posted by: Gralyn on 2/14/2002 at 8:55:24 PM
I have a question about chain removal. I remember old bikes from years ago - the chains had a link in them you could take apart. What about chains on lightweight bikes with deuraillers? How do you remove the chain? What is the procedure? What tools?


   Chain Removal posted by John E on 2/14/2002 at 9:02:57 PM
You have two options. SRAM chains have a PowerLink, a sophisticated variant of the familiar master link, which you can disassemble with pliers. All other chains, and all other SRAM links, are disassembled and reassembled using a small, readily-available handheld tool which presses the rivet (almost) out and then back in. I am still using my 30-year-old Cyclo chain breaker.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Chain Removal posted by Keith on 2/15/2002 at 6:29:10 PM
The smaller Park chain tool works great, and is light enough to pack. I think Nashbar has them on sale for less than $5.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Chain Removal posted by ken on 2/15/2002 at 7:02:51 PM
All the repair books can take you through the process, and they will all say "Don't drive the pin all the way out cause it's hell to start one in again." Check your local library.