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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   front deraileur cable stop housing conversion posted by: GLENN on 3/22/2002 at 1:14:23 AM
Hi all,

I am currently working on a 1970's 531 frameset that had mid-level componets. I am having trouble finding a front deraileur with a cable stop as the shift cables are not routed under the bottom bracket but to a double cable stop on the downtube. The old system had a small length of cable housing from this downtube cable stop to the front deraileur cable stop. I want to install a old campy nr front that has no cable stop. I also have an old campy double downtube cable GUIDE. Will the cable clear the down tube or is there a special guide necessary with a longer arm on the on drive train side? thanks for any help you can give. glenn


   front deraileur cable stop housing conversion posted by Steven on 3/25/2002 at 2:25:58 AM
Glenn,

It may seem very crude, but back in the 70's there were a numer of builders who simply passed the front cable under the bottom bracket without anything. Yes, it did wear away the paint and with time would grind away at the bottom bracket, but the bike would wear out far before the cable had a chance to wear through the shell. Another option is to find one of the delrin plastic Simplex cable guides.

   front deraileur cable stop housing conversion posted by John E on 3/22/2002 at 2:56:33 AM
The Campy guide should work OK. Otherwise, if you are not a purist, you can get a modern under-the-bottom-bracket cable guide (which he considers an inferior system) from sheldon.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   front deraileur cable stop housing conversion posted by Hallyx on 3/22/2002 at 7:09:20 PM
I have the same situation on my project. I'm just going to run the housing from the lower downtube stop around the bottom of the BB and cut it off short using a dab of epoxy under the BB to hold it in place; a cable-shaped cable guide, if you will. Not elegant, but efficient and not too ugly.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   front deraileur cable stop housing conversion posted by John S on 3/22/2002 at 8:16:54 PM
Look for an old guide, Campy, Huret, Suntour or Shimano will work if it is not the style that works with the cable housing.

If you want to go with a cable guide, and older SunTour Cyclone is a very nice derailleur with a stop. I've even seen a Campy NR with a stop.






AGE / VALUE:   Check this one too! posted by: Warren on 3/21/2002 at 11:20:37 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1814313790
A beautiful Carlton...54cm.
My size and flavour. Nice, nice, very nice...wish I had $$$


    Check this one too! posted by John E on 3/22/2002 at 3:01:52 AM
Thanks for the reminder to ask my wife's sister whether she still has her translucent-blue-over-chrome Carlton. Since I already have French, Italian, Austrian, and American bikes, I guess I can tell my wife I really need something from the U.K.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Check this one too! posted by dafydd on 3/22/2002 at 4:09:25 PM
Very pretty... for some reason it reminds me of a Frejus or Legnano. Anyone have an idea of its date? My guess would be seventies.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Check this one too! posted by Warren on 3/22/2002 at 11:04:23 PM
I'm fairly sure that Raleigh had it's teeth into Carlton by the 70's and would have had it's headbadge with Carlton on the seatube only. Having said that...I dunno.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Superbe posted by: Ron on 3/21/2002 at 5:26:29 PM
Did Suntour ever offer aero levers in the Superbe line?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Superbe posted by richie on 3/22/2002 at 6:45:43 AM
While thumbing through an '84 issue of Bicycling Magazine, I saw an ad for Superbe Pro, illustrating the front and rear deraileurs, and shift levers in both braze-on and aero mount. I have a Univega Gran Premio made in '84 which has Cyclone II aero shift levers, and they are somewhat similar to the levers in the Superbe Pro ad. My Ultimate Fantasy Japanese Bike would be a mid-eighties San Rensho with Superbe Pro including the aero shifters.
Richie

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Superbe posted by John S on 3/22/2002 at 8:19:39 PM
Definitely. I have a crusty one, it has a cast aluminum body. Lever is mostly smooth, has a small hole near the top where you stick the allen wrench to tighten the lever to the body.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Superbe posted by John S on 3/22/2002 at 8:21:47 PM
Whoops, I meant tighten lever to the bar.

By the way, I too am creating my dream Japanese bike, with a 3 Rensho frame needing restoration and have most of a Superbe groupo to mount. Those frames are very nicely made.

   :   Superbe Bike, John S.! posted by John E on 3/22/2002 at 8:34:04 PM
I'm impressed. Please let us know how your 3 Rensho turns out; these bikes are arguably the De Rosas of Japan.






AGE / VALUE:   Jeunet posted by: Simon on 3/21/2002 at 1:46:16 PM
Just wondering if anyone is familiar with the Jeunet brand. A friend of mine has a 1973 model, original paint and decals, and in good working condition. Thanks.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Jeunet posted by Chris on 3/23/2002 at 6:06:07 PM
And Many Jeunet bikes were not anywhere's being junk as the above post proves

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Jeunet posted by Keith on 3/21/2002 at 5:15:07 PM
I recall seeing them in the 70s -- I always equated them with other French mass-produced bikes like Gitane, Peugeot, etc. There's a little blurb at http://www.classicrendezvous.com/France/Jeunet.htm Keep in mind that some of these brands had a more glorious history having sponsored/supplied pro teams at one time or another. Look carefully at lost of old Tour de France photos, and you might end up seeing a Jeunet jersey.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Jeunet posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/22/2002 at 1:51:49 AM
I would go carefully with Jeunet and it gets confused with Le- Junet or something like that which is a whole diffrent maker.

Look at the componets a Jeunet has on it. Look for quality lugwork and any sticker that might say if it has quality tubing.

Many of these were junk, 70 mass produced bikes as Keith said. Look for Lyotard pedals, these are worth taking off and keeping. Look at e- bay and Berto's book " The Dancing Chain." Get to know the componets in the Berto book so when you see a Le- June or Jeunet or whatever, you have a feel for what you are getting mixed up with. These can be tricky. French bikes can easily seduce you. Question is, Is it worth it? Don't forget Cycles de Oro "Classics Rendevous" they have a French section

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Jeunet posted by Ian Kersey on 3/23/2002 at 12:11:51 AM
I have an early-mid 70's Jeunet Catalog (as well as a beautiful red Jeunet 630 awaiting restoration).

Jeunet models shown in the catalog include: 650, 640, 630 (w/631 mixte), 620, 610 (w/611 mixte), and 600 (w/601 mixte). There was also a boy's model 660 (w/661 mixte). Dale has extracts from the same catelog as mine for the 640 and 630 models (see http://classicrendezvous.com/France/Jeunet.htm).

The top of the line model 650 had the following components:
Reynolds 531 double butted frame, front, and rear forks
Simplex Super LJ Dural front and rear changer (derailleurs)and down tube shifters
Maillard Competition QR large flange hubs
Stronglight headset and professional chainwheel set (42x52)
Simplex cable clips
Maillard racing pedals
Simplex Dural Seatpost
MAFAC 2000 brakes with special hooded levers and adjusters
Atom 66 competition freewheel 14x24
Sedis chain
Mavic Monthlery Pro rims
Chromed straight gauge spokes
Hutchinson Super Sprint tubular sew-up tires
Ideale 2002 molded leather saddle
Jeunet Dural handlebar and handlebar stem w/ recessed bolt
Competition Dural pump w/ express connector
toe clips and straps
cloth handlebar tape
special hand striping
Came in Gold or Red, Frame sizes 21", 23", 25"
Approximate weight: 21 lbs








AGE / VALUE:   Check it out? posted by: Art on 3/21/2002 at 3:37:22 AM
I wish I was shorter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dllViewItem&item=1084822798

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dllViewItem&item=1084822798


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Check it out? posted by Art on 3/21/2002 at 3:48:42 AM
Sorry those numbers were wrong. These ought to get you there.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=1084822798

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1084827687

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Check it out? posted by Oscar on 3/23/2002 at 6:29:13 PM
My 4-year-old son in on a 16" bike. I wonder if he can handle friction shifting.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Check it out? posted by Keith on 3/21/2002 at 5:17:38 PM
Thanks Art -- those are so cute I can hardly stand it.






AGE / VALUE:   maccari-torino posted by: Jimbo Jones on 3/21/2002 at 2:21:49 AM
Got a old set of wheels , Maccari-torino. 27 inch quite wide, regina freelwheel close ratio. Nice chrome. Sounds fast. Dumpster material?


      maccari-torino posted by John E on 3/21/2002 at 3:22:20 AM
If the spokes are rusty, seized, bent, or fatigued, they are dumpster material. If either rim is eroded or bent, perhaps with a flat spot or kink in the sidewall, it is dumpster fodder. If the freewheel ratchet assembly is in good shape and the cogs are not too worn, it is worth salvaging; the hubs may be, as well.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   First year Le Tour posted by: Paul on 3/21/2002 at 2:12:00 AM
I have a first year schwinn le tour. It is in very good shape. Am I gonna have to pay someone to get take this of my hands ????? Any info would be appreciated. THANKS!


   not collectible YET posted by John E on 3/21/2002 at 3:15:22 PM
Although the collectors have yet to discover them, the utility riders are gradually bidding up the price of Japanese 10-speeds. You should be able to get at least $20 or so for it, and probably more next year.

   RE:not collectible YET posted by Kevin K on 3/21/2002 at 4:54:24 PM
Hi Paul. John pretty well said it all. Two things that I personally think kill the bike being more sought after are the steel wheels and the stamped steel dropouts. I just bought a friends Letour IV he bought new. I'll live with the stamped steel dropouts but the wheels well......... I've got an NOS set a satin finished ARAYA aluminum rims I'll have laced up on the correct 79 hubs sometime soon. Stem shifters also turn some guys off but there are ways around that. If it's really nice, as I said in my email to you, try ebay. You never know. Kevin K

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   First year Le Tour posted by Keith on 3/21/2002 at 5:21:52 PM
Utility riders -- that's a good way to describe it. I have the impression that road cycling is making a comeback -- I've seen a lot more new, young riders lately. LBSs tell me they carry and sell more road bikes than a few years back. Maybe a Lance effect. Anyway, some of these new riders have been savvy enough to skip the bike shops and head for the for sale ads and garage sales. I know several locally who are riding 80s vintage bikes. This may account for bikes that were $20 last year being aought out for more since the alternative is an entry level bike that will cost $500 minimum.

   value of older road bikes posted by John E on 3/21/2002 at 9:29:55 PM
The new-bike situation is even worse than Keith describes, in the sense that a good road touring bike with adequate tyre and mudguard clearance will cost around $1000, because the manufacturers are focused almost exclusively on road racing, mountain, and hybrid bikes. If you want a fun, efficient, cost-effective bike for commuting, shopping, or touring, a late 1950s through early 1980s road bike is your best bet. I made a plain old Peugeot UO-8 into a surprisingly agile commuter by replacing the steel rims, pedals, and crankset with mid-grade aluminum units.

The stem shifters are no problem -- either get some clamp-on downtube shifters on eBay, or keep the handy cable stop and replace the lever assembly with barcons. I just paid less than $15 for a nice pair of ratcheted SunTours on eBay.

If we get the word out that there is absolutely nothing wrong with friction-mode shifting for the nonracer, we can probably further enhance the value of older road bikes.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   First year Le Tour posted by Keith on 3/21/2002 at 9:38:54 PM
Another problem with new bikes, whether they're touring-worthy or not, is that very little is interchangeable. Campy and Shimano have now gone from 7 to 8 to 9, and now Campy to 10. And "old" Campy 9 isn't the same as "new" Campy 9. For all practical purposes, you can't mix Shimano with Campy, and vice versa (I know Branford sells special spacers -- I've never seen or used one, but these systems are so fussy I'm a bit sceptical). In contrast, with very few exceptions (e.g. Frensh and Italian bb cups), you can freely interchange stuff on friction shift 5, 6 or 7 speeds. And there's mountains of the stuff around that will last us for many many years to come. Compare that to several of my friends who are devoted exclusively to Shimano 7-speed STI, and work feverishly to hunt down spare parts (which they need, 'cause those shiters wear out after 10,000 miles or so).

   STI posted by John E on 3/22/2002 at 2:58:23 AM
If I had STI and the shifters died, I would swap in friction-mode downtube levers or barcons.

   RE:RE:not collectible YET posted by Pete on 3/22/2002 at 11:37:52 PM
Kevin,
Does your LeTourIV frame have the cable stops approx where the downtube levers would be?
I used barend shifters so the stops were no problem.
You could always tell people it came "Ergo ready" !
I just spaced mine out to 130 last night. Stays sure are springy!






AGE / VALUE:   Free-Hub removal posted by: Gralyn on 3/20/2002 at 12:55:03 PM
Some of the different types of free-hubs - Shimano, for example - requires a spline tool to remove. But aside from the removal of the entire unit - how do you dis-assemble the free-hub itself? The only clue I see is a ring at the end of the unit which has 2 small holes - 180 degrees apart. It looks to me - that is the only place it could be taken apart.

And also....where can you find some of the tools required for removal of the free-hub?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Free-Hub removal posted by Tom Findley on 3/20/2002 at 1:18:37 PM
The freewheel is not made to be taken apart. It has a bunch of tiny ball bearings in it. You should only spread oil on it and let it soak in. If the freewheel gets to where it doesn't work, replace it. I went through this once myself.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Free-Hub removal posted by Keith on 3/20/2002 at 1:42:35 PM
This is going to be a case-by-case, model-by-model situation. For example, some have grease ports, some don't. Consult Barnett's Manual on this type of stuff. New Campy 9/10 rear hubs come with detailed instructions and a special retaining spring for re-assembly of the freehub body. And I assume by disassemble you mean to clean and lubricate the freehub mechanism, right? As for removal of cassettes, the original Shimano freehub did not require any special tool -- only 2 chainwhips. This was also true of the earlier but dead-end Maillard Helicomatic hub. LOL finding parts if you have worn out pawls on an old freehub -- maybe try Loose Screws.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Free-Hub removal posted by Keith on 3/20/2002 at 6:11:53 PM
FWIW, here's a step by step for the newer Campy stuff, some of which wil apply to other hubs:
Q: What tools do I need to overhaul my 9 speed chorus rear hub . Is it easy to do yourself or its best
to leave it to the LBS . Is there an instruction manual regarding this?
C-O: To overhaul the hub you will need a 2mm allen, 17mm box wrench and cone wrenches. Loosen
the 2mm allen on the drive side locknut. Remove the drive side locknut with the 17mm wrench. The
freehub body will slide off ( watch the pawls and springs, they might fall out too ), At this point you
have an old type traditional hub. Hold the hub in an axle vice on the drive side. Use the cone wrenched
to remove the lockouts on the non drive. When this is done the entire axle will slide out the right side
of the hub. Remove the seals on both sides making sure not to damage them. Be careful not to lose
any of the bearings. Clean everything. When re-assembling use a good lithium based grease ( that's
what I like ), the right side ( drive ) takes 10 7/32" balls and the left ( non-drive ) takes the 9 1/4"
ones. Reinstall the seals. When installing the axle and adjusting it, everything is done from the left
side. Adjust the hub so there is no play at the axle. Don't get it to tight or you will damage the cones
and cups. Re-install the free hub body. You will need to use something to hold the pawls down, like a
piece of string. When you install the freehub body it will slide on the axle. Install the split washer then
the flat washer and then the locknut. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE LOCKNUT, all you need to do is
snug this nut. Re-tighten the 2mm allen. That's it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Free-Hub removal posted by Will on 3/21/2002 at 2:39:34 AM
I would suggest reading Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual. It's a book from the 70's and for me it's my bicycle bible.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Free-Hub removal posted by Will on 3/21/2002 at 2:46:04 AM
Here...I found Glenn's Manual on half.com for you:
http://www.half.com/search/search.jsp?product=books&keyword=Glenn's+Complete+Bicycle+Manual
Trust me, it's a good book. Good luck






AGE / VALUE:   Chrome '75 Super Corsa posted by: desmo on 3/19/2002 at 7:44:28 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1814140742

A somewhat rough, but still v nice 60cm Cinelli Super Corsa F/F with a few odd Campy bits included. I've never seen one in full chrome before, this is still quite reasonably priced. This would be an excellent starting point for a restoration I'd think if the price doesn't get bid up too high.







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Todd Banks? posted by: Keith on 3/19/2002 at 5:08:35 PM
I'm trying to find a vintage rider who grew up in Voorheesville NY and was an avid road cyclist in the late 1970s -- Todd Banks. If any of you know him, please ask him to contact me -- the Crannells would like to get in touch with him.







AGE / VALUE:   check out this awesome paint scheme posted by: Brian L. on 3/19/2002 at 3:47:39 PM
Check out this great 30's track bike (not mine): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1814272904


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   check out this awesome paint scheme posted by Gralyn on 3/19/2002 at 6:16:52 PM
I wish it was mine! Not in my budget right now.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   check out this awesome paint scheme posted by Oscar on 3/20/2002 at 10:16:14 PM
It might even have been gaudy in it's day.






WANTED:   Campagnolo Chorus Aero (Non Ergo) Brake Levers posted by: Colin Barratt on 3/19/2002 at 3:03:48 PM
My quest for Chorus Aero Brake Levers continues !! Where did they all go when everyone swapped to Ergo. They MUST be hiding in boxes under workbenches, or lurking on hack bikes. I would be undyingly grateful if someone can locate a pair as I am anxious to build up my Vitus 992 with its beautiful Chorus Monoplanar brake calipers. (Were they the best and most elegant side pull brakes ever made? I think so - but I'm willing to enter into a debate if you wish).

If you have a pair of Chorus levers you would be willing to part with and you wish to be recommended for immediate sainthood please email me as soon as you can.

Colin.


   RE:WANTED:   Campagnolo Chorus Aero (Non Ergo) Brake Levers posted by Keith on 3/19/2002 at 5:08:24 PM
I assume you've also asked on Campyonly.com classifieds in the want ad section. Classic Rendezvous also has classifieds. Good luck!

   RE:WANTED:   Campagnolo Chorus Aero (Non Ergo) Brake Levers posted by Colin Barratt on 3/20/2002 at 6:23:00 PM
I've just found out that there is no such thing as pre-ergo Chorus levers. Branford Cycle say so - no wonder I couldn't find any. They recommend Athena or Record instead. If anyone has Record or Athena aero levers please email me.
You learn something every day !! Colin.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Campagnolo Chorus Aero (Non Ergo) Brake Levers posted by darryl on 3/27/2002 at 1:41:14 AM
About 7 years ago I bought a pair of Athena areo brake levers as backup spares for my Miele bike. They have black hoods and also include Campy black housing and cable.They are still in the box!!!!! I don't know if I can part with them as I still have the Miele. The miele is for sale though. No promises but make a offer.






AGE / VALUE:   NEEDED: DAMAGED 1962-1965 SCHWINN posted by: Kevin K on 3/19/2002 at 2:22:19 PM
Hi. I realize this is a long shot but does anyone know where I might locate a 1962-1963 Superior or a 1964-1966 Super Sport frame that is damaged on the top or down tubes and is beyond rebuilding. What I need from the bike frame is the seat and chain stays still in good condition. The frame will also have rear forged Huret dropouts. Any help / info would be great. Thanksd, Kevin


   franken-frame posted by John E on 3/19/2002 at 10:21:39 PM
Watch out, everyone! Kevin's building another Schwinn Franken-Frame.

Good luck with the project, Kevin.

   RE:franken-frame posted by Kevin K on 3/20/2002 at 3:45:30 AM
John. It's been a long,long,long winter. I think had I not customized Corvettes in the 70's I'd be ok but old habits die hard. Cars, bikes............... whatever. I'm trying to fiquire out how to flame one next. Enjoyed the jab. Kevin K






MISC:   Stuck Seat Posts Pt 2 posted by: Ray on 3/18/2002 at 7:55:04 PM
I read through all of the remedies for removing stuck seat posts and can share my experience. Before any distructive method I use Liquid Wrench for a minimum of 2 weeks. Then if the seat post is still stuck I get out my drill and drill a hole through the post in a good solid area. I then take a good steel screw and thread it into the hole as far as you can till about 1/8 inch of the head is up above the tube. Suspend the bike upside down in your stand. Place the claw end of a claw hammer or crow bar behind the screw head and whail away with another hammer. Has worked every time for me. You may have to sacrifice the post but at least the frame is intact and so is the paint.


   RE:MISC:   Stuck Seat Posts Pt 2 posted by Keith on 3/18/2002 at 9:40:46 PM
Good advice -- at the shop where I worked we did a similar "drill" before resorting to the saw -- drill a hole, stick a sturdy bar theough it, and have a person on each side turn it. Believe it or no if it's welded two grown men won't turn it!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Stuck Seat Posts Pt 2 posted by Wings on 3/19/2002 at 8:27:42 AM
Ray,
I like that method. It gives you leverage and with the bolt sticking out just 1/8 inch or so it doesn't kill the bolt. Excellent! I would use a "cats paw" which is a carpenters tool for revoving nails in lumber. It is straight with a very short paw on the end. That would slip over a bolt and then the back of the paw is hammered. A claw is just as good! Thanks for the posting! I will look for a frozen post in thrift stores so I can try this! :)

   RE:MISC:   Stuck Seat Posts Pt 2 posted by Rudgematch on 3/20/2002 at 6:11:43 PM
Try Kroil. Or try Aero[sol] Kroil.
"The oil that creeps" (and smells funny).
This stuff works _really_ well.
http://www.kanolabs.com/

Gunsmiths sometimes carry it.







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Rapide posted by: Bryant on 3/18/2002 at 12:14:49 PM
I picked up two Raleigh Rapides at a thrift shop. I got them because they were Raleigh, although I never heard of the Rapide. I don't think they were made in England because they don't say made in England, but they do say Made for Raleigh. They are fair bikes, Suntour components, alloy sidepull brakes and they say Raleigh High Carbon Steel on the seat tube by the bottombracket. I figured I'd fix them up and sell them. Anyone ever heard of the Rapide??


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Rapide posted by marty on 5/23/2002 at 4:30:44 AM
I, too, just picked up a Raleigh Rapide at a thrift store. I got it because I wanted an old 10spd. I am having dificulty finding any info on it as well. Let me know if you come up with anything on it. I am guessing they are Raleighs after Huffy bought them out. Probably not worth much.