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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Unusual Paint job posted by: Gralyn on 3/27/2002 at 3:47:36 PM
I have noticed over the past few years - on some old cars from the 40's and 50's - how people paint them: They paint the bumpers and chrome. The old cars looked good with those big chrome bumpers. But I guess it is cheaper to paint the whole bumper - than the get it re-chromed. But I think it looks rediculous! Well, now I have seen it on a bike!!!! I saw it yesterday on my lunch hour. It was sitting out on someone's lawn, for sale. It was painted a light blue. All if it!!! It was all painted light blue! It appeared to be an old vintage lightweight with touring bars - and perhaps a leather saddle - but it was difficult to tell driving by. But it was blue. All Blue. The handlebars were blue, the saddle was blue, the pedals, the chain guard, the chain, the cranks, the tires, the grips, everything!


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Unusual Paint job posted by Oscar on 3/27/2002 at 4:55:49 PM
Uggh. It would have looked better rusty.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Unusual Paint job posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/27/2002 at 8:20:04 PM
I would like to shake your hand! You are ok in my book!
Don't look at bikes painted all over like this. Don't stare, seeing this can rot your brain!
It's a bad thing to do!

   repainting chromed areas posted by John E on 3/27/2002 at 8:43:56 PM
Last month, I saw a near-original, one-owner 1960 Capo whose owner had stripped and painted the stays and rear dropouts silver because the chrome had oxidized and was peeling off. It looked great from a distance and decent close up, and given the cost of rechroming, I understand the motivation. [My 1959 Capo was yard sale fodder because the original owner had stripped the original paint, chrome, and decals and had repainted the entire frameset with a dull red Rustoleum-like paint. At least he had the decency to remove and replace the Campy shifters, BB cups, headset races, and that great scripted, nickel-plated head badge!]

   RE:repainting chromed areas posted by Kevin K on 3/27/2002 at 11:12:52 PM
I just can't help myself. Did the bike belong to Bobby Vinton aka " I'm Mr Blue, wah wah waaawhooooo

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Unusual Paint job posted by Rob on 3/28/2002 at 1:18:36 AM
For what it's worth, there was a community type program some years ago...1980's?, where old bikes were used as a sort of collective community property and could be ridden by anyone from one point to another and left for someone else to ride to wherever...and so forth. Presumably some group undertook to do whatever co-ordination would be required. All the bikes were painted one color, all over...even the tires as I recall, for recognition... and presumably to make the bikes so ugly no one would want to steal them. I seem to remember the Vancouver bikes were light blue...maybe this was a North America wide program..or maybe the idea was European. Anyway I would guess for reasons that seem self-evident to a cynic like myself the program didn't last...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Unusual Paint job posted by Colin Barratt on 3/28/2002 at 11:27:46 AM
There is an upside - under the paint the chrome WILL NOT RUST !!
A fellow VCC member herein UK once bought a bike which had been sand blasted whilst complete!! Now that IS serious.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by: Hallyx on 3/27/2002 at 5:05:19 AM
Can't unscrew my freewheel from my recently purchased, used(Campy)rear hub. (There's a special place in hell for people who don't use grease or anti-sieze compound when assembling parts.)
NOW what I do?
Thanks
Hallyx


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Tom Findley on 3/27/2002 at 1:00:20 PM
Steel freewheel + aluminum hub = bonding.
I had just a hub and freewheel. When I put the hub in a vise and got on the freewheel, the hub began to distort. I ended up throwing these bonded parts away.

On a complete wheel with freewheel, Bill the mechanic was able to get the Huret freewheel off, but distortred it when using the special tool for that freewheel. I bought a Sun freewheel to put on the Huret aluminum hub, abd gresed it before putting it on.

It may be easier to get separate parts, then grease them before assembling.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Kevin K on 3/27/2002 at 1:04:47 PM
Hi Hallyx. Until I read your posting I never knew that grease should be used when installing a freewheel. DA ! Thanks for the tip. We just recieved 7" of fresh, new snow here in NW Ohio. So today I'll remove all my freewheels and grease the threads. Seriously, thanks. I never would have known. Kevin

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Keith on 3/27/2002 at 1:53:11 PM
Just about all threads on your bike should be greased. May seem counterintuitive since you might imagine it would cause some things to work loose, but the opposite is true -- you can get things tightened down better with grease (in addition to avoiding the bonding Tom refers to). Also grease cables (forget oil, unless it's Phil's tenacious), stem quill, and seatpost. A coating of grease in the bottom bracket shell will prevent rust if moisture collects there. I always thought you shouldn't grease the bb spindle tapers, but I'm now told it's better to do so to get the crank arms seated further on the spindle. The only juncture I don't grease is the stem-handlebar. As for stuck freewheels -- bike shops go through Park freewheel tools regularly. If it's welded, as Tom suggests, you may be out of luck.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Oscar on 3/27/2002 at 4:59:39 PM
I've got a worn freewheel stuck to a Phil hub. That's pretty sad, my friend.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Keith on 3/27/2002 at 6:22:19 PM
Yikes Oscar! That may be worth some creative and drastic measures. I'll assume you've soaked it with Liquid Wrench. When you guys are removing your freewheels, I also assume you're using the quick release (without springs) to hold the tool on the freewheel -- right? I've used the vice mechod, but I've usually held the wheel and used a long wrench (Park chain whip fits its bb tools). Add pipe for leverage as needed. Maybe it would help to disassemble the freewheel as much far possible to get better access for the Liquid Wrench soak -- get two chain whips and get the cogs off. The rmeainder of some freewheels come apart with pin spanners. I'd say try sawing the freewheel off somehow, but the aluminum threads on the hub would be so easy to damage. Maybe disassemble the freewheel as far as possible, and carefully drill some small holes through the body to the hub threads. Apply Liquid Wrench in the holes liberally and repeatedly for several weeks. There's also the torch -- I personally don't like heating any of this stuff -- ack! Good luck!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Ray on 3/27/2002 at 8:32:34 PM
All of the suggestions on how to loosen the freewheel are good and I cannot add much more. But as far as assembly, using any old grease may not produce the results you are looking for. To combat galvanic action and seizing you should use a product just for that purpose. I used to work for an electrical products company that made anti sieze compound for Iron, copper and aluminum. It had a high quality high temperature grease with embedded copper or aluminum dust. It is great for threaded parts that are joined and to be separated later. It is not to be used for moving parts. The product was called Kopr Shield for Copper and Steel and Aluma-Shield for Aluminum and Steel. It was made by Thomas & Betts Corp and any Electrician or Electrical Distributor would know what this is. I also believe the plumbing industry uses something also. It also works great to prevent corrosion on car battery terminals.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by smg on 3/27/2002 at 8:41:37 PM
Been there, had that happen--and it was no fun at all! What I do is clamp the tool in the vise, secured with the QR, and turn the rim. Be sure your bench is either bolted to the floor or wedged into a corner - a hand on either side of a 27" wheel gives lots of leverage! Good luck.

     Frozen Freewheel posted by John E on 3/27/2002 at 8:46:17 PM
That's how I set up the removal tool, as well. I also find it useful to jerk the wheel abruptly, rather than to apply a steady counterclockwise pressure.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Keith on 3/27/2002 at 8:55:52 PM
Ray is right, although grease is usually okay for most steel-to-steel or steel-to-aluminum as long as it doesn;t sit for years. Pedro's Anti-Seize is a copper-based product, copper being the "sacrificial" metal instead of the adjoining aluminum or titanium part. I use it on titanium, but usually don't apply it to other junctures. But, I service my bikes often, and parts end up being removed or adjusted about once a year.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Bill Putnam on 3/27/2002 at 9:47:46 PM
As John E mentioned, once you have the freewheel tool
secured to the wheel and a vise it often is more effective
to apply a sharp tug on the wheel, for very tight freewheels
it's helpful to have two people do this from opposite sides
of the wheel.

Also, be sure you have a good vise that is mounted to a
stable base.

If this does not work, or if you have a wheel-less hub and
freewheel, you can salvage the hub by dissassembling the
freewheel, removing the outer portion of the frewheel along
with the little ball bearings and pawls/springs, then grind
the freewheel inner race in two places directly across from
each other. A whack with a cold chisel to the freewheel
inner body in the ground area will crack the steel freewheel
inner race and this can then be easily removed from the hub
threads. This is a common technique used to remove stuck
inner bearing races from car wheel spindles.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frozen Freewheel posted by Colin Barratt on 3/28/2002 at 11:33:55 AM
SMG makes an excellent point - I nearly demolished my workshop trying to shift a block.

Nifty hint - or "teaching granny to suck eggs" more than likely - to shift a seized fixed cup (the sort with parallel flats) place the edges in a good vice and turn the frame around it. Remember which way the thread goes. This really Will test your bench fixings.

Colin






FOR SALE:   Frame for sale on E-Bay posted by: Steven on 3/27/2002 at 2:08:29 AM
There is an interesting Raleigh Reynolds 753 frame for sale on E-Bay at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815614004

This is being sold by cyclo24 a German fellow who seems to constantly be able to dig up nice products and sell them at honest prices. I am in no way related to him.


   RE:FOR SALE:   Frame for sale on E-Bay posted by Colin Barratt on 3/28/2002 at 11:37:15 AM
Did you see the NOS Campag clipless SGR pedals he had which went for $41. That WAS a good buy even if they were heavy and didn't work as well as LOOK. They were a piece of history. Colin.






FOR SALE:   Classic Schwinn rare pair of frames & forks posted by: Ray on 3/26/2002 at 1:20:54 AM
Look at these two frames. Build youself a rare and unusual classic pair.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1087453848

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1087458548








AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by: freddie on 3/25/2002 at 10:24:10 PM
Greetings. Yesterday I was given a older raleigh that has raised more questions than answers. It is in very good shape with an attractive red and black paint job. Decals in good condition. Grand prix on top tube. drop style handlebars. Weinmann 610 center pull brakes. Now the strange part.Near the crank tube is a sticker that says manufactured under licence by GAZELLE,Ruwielfabriek. Holland.A Raleigh Company. It has older simplex flat spring derailers The spoke guard behind the free wheel is stamped sturmey archer ENGLAND. But the alloy hub is campy and stamped FRANCE. To top it off it has a cheap steel rim and SS double butted spokes.The forks are 1/2 chrome. Any ideas? Some body did some swaping around of parts? Tell me what you think. freddie


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by freddie on 3/25/2002 at 10:40:20 PM
PS. A few more things. It has very fancy lug work with a lot of scrollwork and cutouts as do the peddles.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Kevin K on 3/25/2002 at 10:50:16 PM
Hi. Most steel rims are cheap, however these may be of some quality. What markings are on them ? Is the chrome rich looking and in good condition? Chrome doesn't always mean cheap. Kevin K

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Tom Findley on 3/26/2002 at 12:31:21 PM
Gazelle is a Dutch bike company, and made the frame. Raleigh, SA, Gazelle, and other bike companies were owned by the Derby Bicycle Company. Gazelles are as well-lnown in Holland as Schwinns are in the US.

http://www.gazelle.nl/index.htm

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Keith on 3/26/2002 at 2:32:09 PM
Some pre-70s stainless steel rims were considered top-end at the time by club racers of the day.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Chris on 3/27/2002 at 1:44:23 AM
Alloy dimpled rims can be valuable. Weinmann alloy dimpled rims are hot. Stainless steel can look like chrome to the untrained eye.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Maurice on 3/27/2002 at 3:19:45 AM
Chris can describe what you mean by dimpled - I have two sets of the Weinman Alloy rims - are you referring to the slightly raised outer edge on either side?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by rims on 3/27/2002 at 9:38:08 AM
The rims are not stainless as they have a light coat of rust that should clean off good.How do the dutch raleighs compare to the english made ones?The spring in the rear derailer(simplex) Is very weak. I have a NIB shimono 600 that I will replace it with.Any thoughts on this derailer?

   derailleur posted by John E on 3/27/2002 at 2:50:39 PM
If you want to ride the bike, replace the Simplex with something that shifts better, but SAVE it for a future collector. (Some regulars on this forum are Simplex fans; since I put SunTour rear derailleurs and Shimano fronts on my wife's and my Peugeots, you can guess where I stand on this issue.)

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Chris on 3/28/2002 at 6:34:24 PM
Dimpled means it has a raised collar around the spoke holes in the rim. It's not just a hole punched into the rim. Watch e - bay for dimpled alloy Weinmann rims and you'll see the prices paid for these.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh posted by Chris on 3/28/2002 at 6:34:44 PM
Dimpled means it has a raised collar around the spoke holes in the rim. It's not just a hole punched into the rim. Watch e - bay for dimpled alloy Weinmann rims and you'll see the prices paid for these.






FOR SALE:   Simplex Prestige derailleur group posted by: Jim on 3/25/2002 at 4:03:11 PM
Black Delrin (plastic) downtube shift levers, front & rear derailleurs. Front derailleur is NOS w/ very nominal use. Shift levers and rear derailleur are in very good condition. Original spec sheet included, covering all three components. $25 + postage. Email for photo & any additional info.







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Liotto racing bike posted by: darryl on 3/25/2002 at 3:27:19 PM
Has anyone heard of a Liotto road racing bike? I acquired one equipped with Campy Nuovo Record components, 10 speed gearing and a Brooks saddle. The rear derailler has a "72" stamped on it. Bike is in good condition. Any information would be helpful. Is there any collectors interest in this bike?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Liotto racing bike posted by Kevin K on 3/25/2002 at 7:14:39 PM
Hi Darrly. The bike sounds really cool. Just going on the fact that it's Campy equipted with a Brook's saddle says it's probally a very nice piece. More information please. Pictures ? Thanks, Kevin

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Liotto racing bike posted by darryl on 3/27/2002 at 1:02:35 AM
Additional data on the Liotto: Has Cinelli M-71 clipless pedals, Cinelli Milano bars, Cinelli stem, Campy headset, Campy seatpost, Campy record hubs, Campy brakes & levers, Campy Strada crankset, Rigida AL1320 700 rims, 22" frame (yellow/orange) with decorative lugs.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Liotto racing bike posted by Kevin K on 3/27/2002 at 1:19:28 AM
Hi Darryl. I hope to someday find a real Italian road bike like the one you are describing. It sounds so cool. Enjoy it. Kevin ( any chance to see pics ? )

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Liotto racing bike posted by ken on 3/27/2002 at 9:15:30 PM
send a picture to Eric Norris . If it's good he'll post the pic so we can all admire it; he can also probably tell you more about the maker. (If y'all like Italian cheescake, check this site out)






AGE / VALUE:   Peugeot Information posted by: Gralyn on 3/25/2002 at 1:05:18 PM
Where is a good place to find information on Peugeot? I have one - from mid 70s maybe - but would be interested in old catalog information, etc.


    Peugeot Information posted by John E on 3/25/2002 at 3:11:45 PM
Start with the PX-10 site under classicrendezvous.com. Peugeot catalogues have been appearing on eBay over the past few months. In 1973, the Peugeot road bike lineup for the U.S. market was: AO-8 ($110, wingnuts, LF hubs, no chrome, half handlebar tape); UO-8 ($125, QR, HF hubs, half-chrome forks, full handlebar tape); UO-18 (mixte equivalent); PA-10 ($150, sewups); PR-10 ($185, Reynolds 531 main triangle, aluminum cranks); PX-10 ($260, full 531, Simplex Criterium derailleurs, Brooks Pro saddle). The UO-8/18 were by far the most popular, with the PX-10 next. AO-8's, PA-10s and PR-10s were relatively rare, although there are quite a few PKN-10s (late 1970s/early 1980s designation for PR-10) out there. The East Coast also saw a few UE-8/UE-18s, the European touring (mudguards, lights, racks) version of the UO-8/18. I hope this helps. List your major components and decals, and we can probably identify the model.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Peugeot Information posted by Rob on 3/25/2002 at 11:46:35 PM
There was quite a lengthy discussion on Peugeots in (Try around count=20, 21, etc.) I guess to the chagrin of some who don't share the fascination with old non-PX-10 Peugeots...;) A lot of useful information was exchanged...From all of that discussion I concluded I had a UE-8 (fenders removed). Since then I picked up (for nothing)a damaged old UO-8 with most of parts gone, and have seen a number of UE-18's in reasonable shape...the UE-8/18 seems fairly common in the Vancouver/Victoria area where I spend most of my time...maybe an LBS or two was pushing them hard in this area... I would check around at some of the older bike shops and maybe talk to oldest guys there and see what they remember. John E., as usual, has posted some very useful information...

   dumpster salvage posted by John E on 3/26/2002 at 12:02:58 AM
Attention all dumpster divers and bike collectors: Please do not ever scrap an old French, Swiss, or Austrian frame without checking the headset races and BB cups and salvaging them if they are in decent condition. Those 35x1mm metric BB cups, in particular, are getting scarce and might be needed by someone doing a restoration.

Although many people deride Peugeots, I prefer to ride them. With 28mm tyres, 18 gears, and SunTour derailleurs, my PKN-10 is a suberb commuter, as was its UO-8 predecessor.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Peugeot Information posted by paul on 3/26/2002 at 1:52:18 AM
to add to the peugeot talk, I own a beautiful UE-18 with the following spec's Mixte frame 10 speed Maillard rear hub Rigida steel rims 700Cx28C Swalbe clinchers with (ugh) Presta valves, Weinmann side pulls stainless steel fenders and rear rack Simplex derailleurs front and rear with plastic downtube levers steel crank, rubber pedals and upside down chrome "northroad" bars on alloy Atax stem with SanMarco saddle in beige to match pearl beige paint and generator plus lights front and rear. Bicycle is long wheel base rides like a dream and is a "keeper" thanks for listening!

   valve fight! posted by John E on 3/26/2002 at 3:38:31 AM
Valve Wars surface yet again! Many forum regulars, myself included, strongly prefer Presta valves. (I use Prestas exclusively on my own bikes.) If you really want Schraeders, you can always ream out the valve holes in your rims and rim tape.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Peugeot Information posted by Gralyn on 3/26/2002 at 1:43:16 PM
I am not familiar at all with the Peugeots. In my collection, I have a Hercules, Raleigh, Ross, Several Schwinns, Lotus, Nishiki, Kenko Sports. I thought the Peugeot would go great with my collection. The Peugeot has "Peugeot" on it - but that's all. There's no other model identification. I think...but I can't remember for sure....that it has Rigida rims, Normandy high flange hubs, Simplex deureillers (push rod type on front), Norex saddle, Cinelli bars, I think the side-pull brakes are something different...not weinmann, or dia-compe, it's 10 speed, has the check pattern decals (decals don't look like those you see on the early 80's bikes (peeling off, etc.). Has cottered cranks. It has a serial number - I think on the rear drop-out....and something on the bottom bracket.
I just got it back together yesterday (I had dis-assembled it, cleaned and polished everything, new tires, tape, etc.) Weather permitting, I will get to try it out this afternoon.

    Peugeot Information posted by John E on 3/26/2002 at 2:48:10 PM
The lack of a Reynolds or Vitus sticker, the cottered steel cranks, the knurled steel Rigida rims, and the Normandy high-flange QR hubs suggest a UO-8. If original, the side-pull brakes suggest late 1970s; before 1975, almost all Peugeots used Mafac centerpulls. (The brakes may have been a misguided aftermarket "upgrade.") In the early 1970s, the downtube "Peugeot" label was printed in gold lettering over a black background; by the late 1970s, we see plain block letters. You may be able to match your decal scheme against the PX-10 website, since Peugeot used similar decal and paint schemes across its entire model line.

   RE: Peugeot Information posted by Gralyn on 3/26/2002 at 4:01:34 PM
Yes, I'll bet it originally had center-pull brakes. There is a little bracket thing connected to the seat post bolt which at the moment serves no function. It looks like what would have been used for center-pull brake. I would say it probably had center pull brakes originally.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stella! posted by: Patrick on 3/25/2002 at 3:33:42 AM
A friend of mine wants to trade me his Stella road bike for a Gary Fisher Mt bike I am about to begin cleaning up for him. I know nothing about Stella. Can anyone fill me in somewhat about history, quality, features to look for, desirable models, how to identify age, etc...Any and all responses are greatly appreciated. Patrick


      Stella vs Fisher posted by John E on 3/25/2002 at 3:17:21 PM
Since both brands encompass a wide range of models, I cannot tell who is getting the better deal here. I have seen Stellas at the Peugeot UO-8 level and at the PX-10 level.

Consult classicrendezvous.com and look for the usual telltale signs of quality, such as nice lugwork, Reynolds decals, name-brand dropouts, integral derailleur hanger, good crankset, and perhaps half-chrome stays. Don't trade Gary for a plain carbon steel frame with cottered steel cranks.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Clipless Pedals M-71 posted by: Darryl on 3/24/2002 at 5:16:34 PM
I have a pair of M-71-BREV clipless pedals including the screw-on shoe clamps. The "71" might mean 1971 vintage. Are these Cinellis' & how much are they worth? They are in excellant condition - few scratches.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Clipless Pedals M-71 posted by Steven on 3/25/2002 at 2:20:41 AM
They are indeed Cinelli pedals and yes they are from 1971. I believe they were the first clipless pedals. They were used mostly for track and did appear in the Munich olympics. The black (sometimes white) plastic locking mechanism was not that handy to use and probably explains why they never really caught on outside of track racing.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Clipless Pedals M-71 posted by Colin Barratt on 3/28/2002 at 11:42:32 AM
I read recently that these were quite unreliable to the extent that hard riders had to use gaffer tape to hold their shoes onto the cleats which sort of negated the reason for them in the first place.

Colin.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Suburban posted by: Bryant on 3/24/2002 at 1:25:05 AM
I found a 1973 Campus Green Schwinn Suburban 10 speed and want to fix it up. The paint is scratched and I would like to touch it up. Anyone have an idea of a Barnd and color code I can use that matches the Campus Green??


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Suburban posted by Kevin K on 3/24/2002 at 2:40:11 PM
Hi. Phone 1-408-961-0643. This # will put you intouch with Pete at Hyper-Formance Rays.com. He has Campus Green touch up paint and can suggest the best route for you to take it touching up your Schwinn Surburban. Kevin

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Suburban posted by Bryant on 3/24/2002 at 9:52:14 PM
Thanks Kevin. Your right he is pricey, but I'll give him a try. Thanks again






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Campagnolo Record ( mid-eighties w. 2x7 gear) spare parts availability posted by: Aston on 3/23/2002 at 8:19:13 PM
Could someone possible tell if there is a production of Campagnolo spares for mid-eighties Record (C?)??

Or how and where to get my hands on some?

I am planning to buy a "new" Bianchi Record from the mid-eighties - but have been told that many spares are NOT available any more ( e.g. chain wheel ).

If it is not relatively easy ( and cheap ) to get to - I might reconsider.

I´m living in Finland..


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Campagnolo Record ( mid-eighties w. 2x7 gear) spare parts availability posted by Skip Echert on 3/24/2002 at 3:37:02 AM
Hello Aston -
Older Campy components and repair parts are generally available, new and used. Try
http://www.renaissance-cycles.com/ , located in Holland.
http://www.velostuf.com/,
and there always is Ebay.com
cheers,
skip

   Campagnolo Record parts availability posted by John E on 3/24/2002 at 11:10:50 PM
I have had no problem finding suitable parts for my 1982 Campy-geared Bianchi. If you are not overly particular, you can readily locate old 144mm BCD Sugino chainrings on eBay. The shifters and derailleurs are very durable; I still happily use the original 1959 Campy friction downtube levers on one of my bikes.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fixed gear communter posted by: Brian L. on 3/23/2002 at 3:49:42 PM
I've been thinking about building up a db 531 Claude Butler frameset I have as a fixed-gear commuter. My route is hilly with a fair amount of traffic. I have never ridden fixed-gear before. Any thoughts/recommendations as to set up and riding technique?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fixed gear communter posted by Warren on 3/23/2002 at 6:04:32 PM
I would start by mounting a front brake lever under the top flats of your bars so you can keep your head up with a hand on the brakes at all times. Keeps the stress off you neck until you get used to a more aggressive position. Maybe use a taller stem (technomic?)

Use clips and straps set very loose until you master mounting and dismounting. Clips and straps can also be a problem if your cranks are too long on the Butler. If you can't find 165's to use then you might use spd's/clipless pedals, if you are comfortable with them. Only you know how strong your legs are with respect to picking a gear...you'll be surprised how efficient fixed bikes are and it can be very rewarding using a tall(ish) gear to get up those hills and then enjoy the ride down the other side without having to spin out. Others swear by smaller gears...say in the range of 60 to 65 inches. I ride an 81 inch gear but my ride is fairly flat and I push big gears as a rule. Start low and move up would be fairly sound advice.

Don't let traffic get to you. As long as your front brake is dialed in , you will become a smoother rider and just as safe as ever. You won't regret it.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fixed gear communter posted by Keith on 3/25/2002 at 5:37:56 PM
I don't ride to work every day on a fixed gear, but I do it regularly just for fun. I ride in and out of a river valley, and this involves a steady, gradual climb with a couple of short steep hills. I ride a 46 x 17 (about 73"), and it works fine for me. Bike messengers push really big gears in traffic so that they can hit higher top speeds, but I find a more moderate gear to be better so it's a bit easier to push off at an intersection. For setup just go to your LBS, or Sheldon's Harris, and buy a gear. Try it out the first time on a familiar, low traffic street. I'll add my usual fixed gear safety stuff: The fixed gear is an impatient teacher -- it will kick you hard, even cause you to loose control, if you forget it's there. Common times newbies forget: clipping into the pedels, standing up to go over a bump, while reaching for the water bottle or something in the jersey, while going around a corner, and when you just feel tired. I recommend that you keep both brakes on -- I'm well aware the front is 80% or so of your stopping power, but going down a long, steepish hill you can hit 200rpm, and forget trying to use backward force on the pedals to stop. Take corners catiously -- your pedal hitting the road can launch you into orbit. If you can, set the bike up with 165 cranks, and/or a frame with a high bb. Also, beware of the spinning drivetrain -- it will easily remove a finger. Also for setup, I see no advantage to a bolt-on rear hub, even though I own a track bike and have set up fixed gears that way. It's actually easier to certer the wheel and get proper chain tension with Tulio's wonderful invention -- the quick release. Have fun!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fixed gear communter posted by Keith on 3/25/2002 at 7:35:49 PM
P.S. Another good way to select a gear is to ride your regular route using one gear on your derailleur-equiped bike. Find the one that's comfortable (but keep in mind there's no coasting down those hills -- so see if you can spin with the gear on descents).






AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by: Kevin K on 3/22/2002 at 5:34:50 PM
Hi. I happehed upon a pair of GB brake levers the other day. The lever part is about the same size as most levers however the housing part that the lever pivots in is cast alloy/aluminum. It is also only about 1/2 the size of a regular housing. I know alot of people say something looks old and it's only 30 or so years old but ................. These really look old. They look more like they were hand formed over an anvil with a hammer than stamped. Any ideas on what vintage they are please ? Thanks, Kevin K


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Keith on 3/22/2002 at 6:49:24 PM
Here's a quote from a 1972 book: These are English brakes and (though I betray my prejudice) are made like most British machines with odd and overly complicated details. The quick-release function is found at the lever and is a plastic spacer that is operated with a fragile spring. It works but is potentially a weak point. GB chooses to hang the pivots of both arms from posts that are securely mounted. They are supported on both sides by a kind of frame that either indicates distruct of their own abilities or an attempt at a unique and useful design. Perhaps both. Anyway, the arms operate well enough and return adequately but this brake simply doesn't distinguish itself. GB brakes are hard to find and don't come as standard equipment on many bikes, but they're out there if you want to look for them." Bicycle Camping and Touring (Tobey 1972).

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Kevin K on 3/22/2002 at 7:49:15 PM
Hi Keith. These brakes levers have no plastic or quick release pieces at all. I found some Campy pieces once and quessed them to be early 60's. They were early 50's pieces. These have that look.Old. They also do not go on a roadster style but a road bike. I just located a number on the casting. 0142. Any help ? Thanks, Kevin

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Keith on 3/22/2002 at 9:27:53 PM
The GB brakes reviewed in the book were, of course, early 1970s. Go to classicrendezvous.com and check British components -- you may find GB there. There are several Brit component names that didn't survive into the late 70s or 80s (Gian Roberts, Chatter Lea, Cyclo, I think, are examples).

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Keith on 3/22/2002 at 9:31:04 PM
Here: http://classicrendezvous.com/British/GB.htm

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Peter on 3/22/2002 at 9:50:35 PM
The levers you have are probably the first ones that Gerry Burgess produced when he started production in the late 1940s, and were matched with the Hiduminium calipers through into the 1950s when the Coureurs and Superhoods were introduced.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Schwinnderella on 3/23/2002 at 2:42:11 AM
Sounds like the same GB levers which are on my 1949 Hercules Kestrel Super Club. As Peter mentions below these are matched with GB Hinduminium calipers.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   GB BRAKE LEVERS posted by Kevin K on 3/23/2002 at 2:27:10 PM
Hi and thank you all for your help. Kevin






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good /Better /Best Mixtes posted by: Peri Puckett Cubillo on 3/22/2002 at 1:45:50 PM
I'm looking to purchase a vintage lightweight mixte that will be converted to a single speed. Any feedback about particularly desireable models would be appreciated.

Anybody selling one with a smaller frame & wheels?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good /Better /Best Mixtes posted by Schwinnderella on 3/23/2002 at 11:46:29 PM
If you can pick up in the chicago area I have a mid 70's mixte Jeunet in good condition . Will sell for $30.00.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good /Better /Best Mixtes posted by Joe Bender-Zanoni on 3/24/2002 at 8:25:16 PM
AD is very nice but beware the very long "top tube" length unless you have a long waist and arms. Otherwise the Motobecanes are very nice, some have Vitus tubing. A little heavier but well made would be a Fuji or other Japanese models.

   Austro-Daimler posted by John E on 3/22/2002 at 3:22:28 PM
Unless you can find a Rene Herse at a reasonable price, I vote for Austro-Daimler. My second choice would be Motobecane.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good /Better /Best Mixtes posted by Walter on 3/22/2002 at 4:03:40 PM
Motobecane came to my mind as well and you certainly wouldn't go wrong with an A-D.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good /Better /Best Mixtes posted by Bill Putnam on 3/25/2002 at 5:25:52 PM
Although new and not a mixte frame, Waterford makes a step
through frame that would probably give a shorter effective
top tube than most mixte frames. Their styling is very mch
along the lines of classic bicycles:

http://www.waterfordbikes.com/pframe.htm




   RE:Austro-Daimler posted by Terrick on 3/25/2002 at 11:27:22 PM
I own a 1959 Autro-Daimler-Puch Bergmeister 10-speed. in great condition, all original except for seat. only setback is that it needs a new paint job. equipped with campy gran sport compnents. its a sweet bike. i wanted to find out more about it, or ask for any offers, as i said its in great condition.