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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   paydirt posted by: freddie on 3/31/2002 at 12:38:58 AM
Sometimes It seems like a long dry spell between great deals. Today in the next town I stopped at a thrift store I had never been in befor. I have stopped at a lot of these and never really found anything good but today the first thing I saw was the nicest varsity I have ever seen. Like brandnew. Crome shinninf paint gleaming. Decals looking factory fresh. Org.schwinn tires still had the nubbies but dry rotted. I pulled this out and saw a ok schwinn speedster 24in tires. A slightly beat fugi superlite. And a ok mossburge that has a odd two cable rear derailer.I asked the elderly lady running the place how much for all she said make an offer. I looked in the thin wallet and counted $75. I said how about 50 without much hope and she quickly replyed 55 and you can have them. Great deals are out there. I would have given that for just the varsity. It was that nice.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   paydirt posted by Kevin K on 3/31/2002 at 1:46:03 AM
Hey, the Varsity is nothing but dead,heavy,old metal. But they are so cool when you find them in the condition you just described. Good for you. Polish that thing until it gleams and hurts your eyes. If you can find one install a chrome tube fork in place of the forged unit on your Varsity. It'll drop a few lbs. off the bike and soften up the ride alot, not to mention add more chrome. So, look on the head tube. Serial numbers. What years is she. Enjoy it, Kevin

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   paydirt posted by freddie on 3/31/2002 at 5:22:03 AM
Serial puts it at 1978. It is a real gem. The only thing I will do to it is new tires. Ride it very little.I just came back inside from sitting and looking at it. I love this bike. That deep red and bright crome are great. I rode it to friends house that is schwinn nuts, He has krates and phantoms and a couple of wizzers. and his remarks were "I HAVE NEVER SEEN A VARSITY SO CLEAN" I asked my wife if I could hang it on the wall inside. I have over 40 vintage bikes and this heavy out of date bike is #1 to me.

   Varsity posted by John E on 3/31/2002 at 8:41:50 PM
I commuted by train and Varsity for several months. The worst part was carrying the Varsity onto and off of the train and dropping down to second gear (39/24) for a 12-percent grade. Otherwise, it was a smooth, non-twitchy, forgiving, and thoroughly enjoyable ride. If you perform any upgrades, as I did, be sure to preserve all of the original components for a future collector. It is finally happening -- the bike that introduced American adults to cycling is being rediscovered, and I applaud the trend.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Father in law bike--again posted by: Walter on 3/30/2002 at 11:37:11 PM
The crank transplant is complete. I now have an early 70s Dutch bike spinning Fuji proprietary cranks. The original cottered crank is very much history. After 30 years of joyful union the cotter pin had no desire to leave the crankarm. Judge Dremel affected a truly nasty divorce. I was very surprised when I tried a BB cup from the Fuji crank (SunTour, assumedly English threaded) and it threaded into the BB shell. Like John E. I figured for sure the bike would be French threaded. Anyways it went and I'm a happier person because of it.

2 questions: 1)Someone please confirm or deny my sneaky suspicion that old Pivo stems are bad things. 2)Should I keep the Simplex derailleurs? I have a number of replacements in my parts stash so all I'm talking is time, not $. I like originality, my father in law won't care.

Thanks for listening.


   Thanks for the info posted by Walter on 4/1/2002 at 12:08:16 PM
Well the bike is nearing final shape then. Cotterless aluminum cranks is the only major change. I just regreased and reinstalled the Pivo stem. The Simplex stay, at least the rear. I'll mess around with the front for awhile but if I don't have any success there's a Shimano and a SunTour waiting for an opportunity. I'm waiting for a saddle I just got on eBay. Gel and springs. I doubt my in law will go for lycra and chamois so this should be comfortable for the rides I envision him doing.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Father in law bike--again posted by Kevin K on 3/31/2002 at 1:55:35 AM
Hi Walter. I've read the AVA stems should be shelved but not heard bad of the PIVO. On the derailleurs see how much he rides the bike first. If he enjoys it and you later think upgrading would be a plus do so then. It sounds nice what you are doing and I hope that your efforts are rewarded with his use of the bike. Good luck, Kevin

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Father in law bike--again posted by Oscar on 3/31/2002 at 1:56:02 AM
Axa stems are bars are the bad ones. I'ved never heard anything wrong about Pivo. I've seen them on a lot of lower to middle Gitanes. I've got one that polished up really nice and will look nice on my next project.

Keep the Simplex, whythehecknot?

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Father in law bike--again posted by Oscar on 3/31/2002 at 3:18:04 AM
That's AVA not axa. I get it confused with ATAX, which is the acceptable-good French stem.

   RE: AVA stems posted by Eric Amlie on 3/31/2002 at 11:55:39 PM
Not all the AVA stems are bad. The "Death Stem" has the clamp bolt running horizontally beneath the handlebar. The ones with the clamp bolt running vertically in front of the bar are supposed to be ok. Too bad we can't post pics here. I have a pic of the notorious "death stem".

   RE:RE: AVA stems posted by Oscar on 4/1/2002 at 4:20:10 AM
Good to know, Eric. I've seen some of the "supposed to be ok" stems, and they are quite attractive with their arrow shape.






AGE / VALUE:   DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT ? posted by: Kevin K on 3/30/2002 at 11:26:32 PM
Hi. I picked up a nice Suntour ARX derailleur. It's used but not very much. So anyway, it makes a funky noise sorta like it's between gears. I fooled with it but to no avail. I switched this onto a bike that I know is set up properly and I still get the same funky clacking like sound. In fact it transferes through the chain to the crankset. It's loud ! If I use any other derailleur it's quiet and smooth. What gives ? I'd really like to use this derailleur as it has the look I'm after on the bike and will allow me to use a freewheel that's never seemed to work properly with other derailleurs. The dropouts are straight and the Suntour ARX shows no signs of ever being damaged. Any ideas ? Thanks. Kevin


   RE: SunTour AR posted by Eric Amlie on 4/1/2002 at 1:39:59 PM
I'm not sure how similar the AR is to the ARX but I have an '85 Schwinn Traveler with the AR on it. The chain keeps slipping off the top jockey wheel and rubbing against the cage. I have fiddled repeated with the alignment all to no avail. I think I'll just replace it with a SunTour VGT Luxe.

   DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT ? posted by Steven on 3/31/2002 at 1:04:59 AM
Have you also checked the alignment of the jockey wheels? It sounds like your cage might be out of alignment. On Japanese derailleurs this happened quite often. The Japanese derailleurs certainly worked better when new than Campagnolo through most of the 70's and 80's but nothing touches the durability of the Campagnolo. It is a bit like Holiday Inn hotels: No surprises, always the same.

   RE:DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT ? posted by Kevin K on 3/31/2002 at 1:36:03 AM
Hi again. This time I resorted to switching wheels. Nothing. Now I see your post Steven. I've messed with bikes but usually everything falls into place with little fuss. This is new to me. What do I look for ? How would I align this if it is out ? Thanks, Kevin






AGE / VALUE:   Mafac brake levers ( I don't like this model!) posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/30/2002 at 4:49:14 PM
E- bay item #1813526821 Mafac brake levers with white plastic hoods.
I screamed aloud, scaring the owner and the customer too! "IT'S PLASTIC! YELLOW WHITE PLASTIC" OH,WHY DID THEY DO THIS? WHY?? The owner rushed downstairs and told me to be quiet and he promised that if I looked a bit more, I would find older all metal parts and he was right! Soon I was smiling and carrying a box full of goodies.So it turned out all right. I threw those plastic covered levers into the trash can immediately!
It's just that I consider seeing plastic as cheap, trashy, 1970's garbage! I rear up with adversion to these and Simplex Prestige derailers too!
You watch, these will sell and I'll regret not keeping 'em!
Did these work all right out in the field?
No relation to seller, not my auction. You don't see these too often, and for me, that's fine!







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn paramount price posted by: nick on 3/30/2002 at 4:14:48 AM
i have a 1973 schwinn paramount p-13. i believe that is the last year they were produced. i've customized it as i used to work for park schwinn in st. paul as a store manager. its not your average paramount. campy super record throughout. omas sealed bearing bottom bracket. phil wood sealed bearing hubs. shimano satin finish side pull brakes. bicycle is in absolutely perfect condition. perhaps 300 miles on it. anyone have any idea what a bicycle like this might be worth?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn paramount price posted by Gralyn on 3/30/2002 at 1:43:23 PM
Check on E-Bay. I'm sure there have been several Paramounts over time. I'll bet it's worth a lot!






AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Absolute? posted by: george on 3/29/2002 at 11:00:48 PM
I wonder if anyone could tell me the age and value of this bike I just picked up. It is a Fuji Absolute, road bike, 12-speed, Suntour components, "4130 cromoly blend" lugged frame, it is maybe a seafoam green with a cream colored crown, it looks like a 25" frame and it has a sticker on seat tube that states "exclusively for Fuji America". Just curious, Thanks in advance. Geo


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Absolute? posted by Frank on 3/30/2002 at 5:50:39 AM
I've got a bike exactly like this, same color and all, but maybe a slightly smaller frame. Seems to be a decent bike, although probably low end. Mine has a Suntour 7 rear derailleur, Araya 27x1 1/4 rims, and an el-cheapo SR crankset with the built in steel chainrings. I'm planning on swapping the crankset and derailleurs for somehing nicer, as these seem to be the lower points of the bike. I swapped the stem mount shifters for some ATB thumbshifters clamped to the end of the bars, sort of like some barcons. I ride mine a lot since I got it about a month ago. I gave $25 for it at my LBS. I jokingly refer to it as my "Fuji Obsolete" :)






AGE / VALUE:   maserati/schwinn posted by: Josh on 3/29/2002 at 4:23:35 PM
my freind has a maserati that i would like to tell him how much its worth.He purchased it in '73.silver/m2 SN 68***.He gave me a '75 schwinn continental,and i would like to know the value of this too.any imformation at all would be appreciated.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   maserati/schwinn posted by Kevin K on 3/29/2002 at 5:20:41 PM
Hi. I've no idea on the Maserati other than the name sake makes it sound exotic. As for the Schwinn Contnental only what someone is willing to pay. Mint bikes needing no repairs can bring ok money as it's getting "cool" to ride and be seen on these heavy lightweights. As for value, I find these in the trash often. At garage sales the norm is $10-$20. Mint bikes can do better. Check ebay. See what these have brought in past sales. Good luck, Kevin

   Schwinn Continental posted by John E on 3/29/2002 at 8:23:00 PM
Unfortunately, your Conti. dates to the bike boom era. These remain plentiful, although the herd is starting to thin, and the values are beginning to rise from throwaway or garage sale fodder levels. Keep watching eBay, and remember that condition and original equipment are extremely important determinants of value.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   maserati/schwinn posted by Walter on 3/29/2002 at 9:52:58 PM
http://sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-g-n.html#maserati

Check out the above link for a little bit of info about Maseratis. They've been mentioned a few times here. My guess is that they're probably pretty collectable if only due to the link with the famous automoile marque.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   maserati/schwinn posted by Gralyn on 3/30/2002 at 1:49:50 PM
I picked up a 70's continental from the original owner. It was in very good original condition. I think I gave $20 for it. It was heavy compared with lightweight bikes. It turned out to be too tall for me - so I tried to sell it. I got $45 for it - and figure I was lucky to get that.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   maserati/schwinn posted by Warren (Australia) on 3/31/2002 at 12:52:32 PM
I dont know how much the masserati is worth, but I have one here that I have had since about 1978. Bought it secondhand and had already been repainted at that time. I need to know what the original decals looked like. Do you have a photo of the bike? Mine has zeus dropouts and Maserati emblem in top of fork crown. Had cable guides on top of bottom bracket but no other braze ons. Decal info would be much appreciated.






WANTED:   Cups for NR/SR campy hubs posted by: Tony Truran on 3/29/2002 at 2:41:41 PM
Does anyone know of a source/have a stash of NOS cups for Nuovo/Super record hubs. The cones are pretty easy to find but the cups are not. Alternatively, anybody have experience with recycling good cups from trashed hubs?

P.S. Thanks to everyone for your advice concerning my prior post about the stuck seat post. I havn't had time to tackle the project yet but there was a lot of helpful advice.







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Laugh's on Me posted by: Hallyx on 3/29/2002 at 7:55:26 AM
So, here I am scrounging old Campy stuff to tart up my Dawes Galaxy "restoration." Found NR shifters and headset, C-Record brake levers, seatpost bolt and other bits. I finally found some 1977 Strada cranks that I could afford, way kewl. THEN I find out about the Campy-only 135mm bolt circle diameter...smallest chainring it takes is 42t. Largest cog the NR derailer accomodates is 28t.

I have to climb a 500ft hill to get home. My current ride has a 37in. low gear; I really need a 35in. or better. So I get to use my Campy derailer OR my Campy crank OR use them both and push the bike up the hill.

The laugh's on me.

Hallyx


   RE: Small point posted by Eric Amlie on 3/29/2002 at 1:33:33 PM
Your '77 crankset should be a 144 bcd. I've heard that it will take a 41t minimum chainring but they are very hard to find. The newer Campy cranks are 135 bcd.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Laugh's on Me posted by Tony truran on 3/29/2002 at 3:04:56 PM
Seems to me I've heard about converting nuovo cranks to a triple setup. I'm not sure what is involved or how hard the parts are to find.

   lower gears posted by John E on 3/29/2002 at 3:32:57 PM
You have at least three options:

1) During the 1970s, Campy did make a road triple, typically in a 36-45-52 configuration. These are very rare and typically fetch well over $100 per set on eBay. The 36T ring, which fortunately is about what you want, takes a proprietary bolt circle, but you can use any 144mm Sugino, TA, or Campy SR/NR rings from 41T to 60T in the two outer positions. (If chain wrap is a problem for you rear derailleur, consider using a 50T or smaller outer ring. I run 34-45-48 / 13-23 with a Shimano 600 front and SunTour short-cage Cyclone rear.)

2) If this is not too anachronistic for your tastes, get a modern Chorus or Veloce road triple, available in stock sizes of 30-40-50 (recommended for your rear derailleur) and 30-42-52. The two outer rings use Campy's current proprietary 135mm BCD, which supports a minimum of 39T.

3) If you reduce the size step between your two chainrings and experiment with chain length and rear wheel positioning in the dropout, you can probably push the rear derailleur to handle a 30 or even a 31T cog. Something like 45-41 / 12-31 would give you a range of 36 to 101 gear-inches.

Good luck with your project.

   RE:lower gears posted by Bill Putnam on 3/29/2002 at 8:49:05 PM
Along with using a 41T rather than 42T small chainring-
available by TA at Harris Cyclery
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html#144
you might consider another period derailler such as a
Huret duopar-these come up on e bay fairly regularly and
can handle a larger range than your Nuovo Record derailler.
They also shift better. Just don't shift it into the
spokes-a friend did this and quickly reduced his brand new
derailler to a twisted piece of useless metal. You could
also use a period correct Campy Rally derailler with a
larger freewheel but these don't shift nearly as well as
the Huret.
Going the other way, TA "Cyclotouriste" cranks are still
available new, although expensive campy Nuovo Record cranks
in good shape also go for a bunch so you might be able to
swap cranks for not a lot of extra money. The TA allows
for a wide range of chainrings, though you would need to
be careful about having enough chain wrap with the NR rear
derailler.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Laugh's on Me posted by smg on 3/29/2002 at 10:56:45 PM
My own "full-campy" days came to an end back in 1979 when I learned the hard way that a 40.5" low (42-28) wasn't low enough for serious touring in hilly country. (The knees fortunately did recover!)
A mountain-crossing trip to the west coast was contemplated for the next year. The solution was yet another classic-period crank, the Stronglight 99 - or, more accurately, the SR "Apex" copy. These were triple cranks taking a 28-tooth low, with all three rings on the same bolt ring. Not quite Campy elegance, but more flexible and of respectable "Eurobike" heritage. Worth looking for,

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Laugh's on Me posted by Hallyx on 3/30/2002 at 7:47:34 AM
You guys are sooo sharp. Thanks for that "small point," Eric. Not so small, when I thought Harris aftermarket had a 39t for a 135bcd. Guess I'll save up for a "triplizer," Tony, and long spindle...someday. (Thanks for that URL, Bill.) Nice tip on chain-length and axle position, John. I'm a "half-stepper," too, so I hardly lean on my derailer capacity. I'll try cogs first (it's cheapest).

Of course, as "restorer/builders" understand, the idea is not the slickest shifting or lightest weight. I can get that by writing a check at my LBS or on ebay. We're either maintaining a heritage, resurrecting something quaint or differrent or interesting, creating rolling jewelry or any or all of the above. Doing it on my meager budget is especially challenging. Thanks for all your help.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Laugh's on Me posted by smg on 4/3/2002 at 5:56:20 PM
You might want to have a look at eBay #1088380156. It's an early-'70s 24" Raleigh International--fitted with a 52/44/36 Campy triple crank. Price with about a day left to go is $195. Don't know how long your legs are or how deep your pocket is, but that might be a good deal for you.






AGE / VALUE:   The Laugh's on Me posted by: Hallyx on 3/29/2002 at 7:55:26 AM
So, here I am scrounging old Campy stuff to tart up my Dawes Galaxy "restoration." Found NR shifters and headset, C-Record brake levers, seatpost bolt and other bits. I finally found some 1977 Strada cranks that I could afford, way kewl. THEN I find out about the Campy-only 135mm bolt circle diameter...smallest chainring it takes is 42t. Largest cog the NR derailer accomodates is 28t.

I have to climb a 500ft hill to get home. My current ride has a 37in. low gear; I really need a 35in. or better. So I get to use my Campy derailer OR my Campy crank OR use them both and push the bike up the hill.

The laugh's on me.

Hallyx







FOR SALE:   Reynolds 753 tubed Raleigh posted by: Steven on 3/29/2002 at 2:29:03 AM
I mentioned below that there was a Reynolds 753 tubed Raleigh frame for sale on Ebay. With less than 12 hours to go, the bidding has only reached $22. This is a ludicrously low price for this frame. It is a 23" frame too! For those of you that don't know it, the 753 tubing is the top of the line reynolds tubing. Back in the 70's and 80's, a frame with 753 tubing would have gone for almost double the price of a full 531 frame. This is an opportunity that should not be missed. If it were not for my wife, I would go for it myself. Take a look at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815614004


   RE:FOR SALE:   Reynolds 753 tubed Raleigh posted by Walter on 3/29/2002 at 12:39:52 PM
I agree about the price and the desirability of the frame. It's only at a little over $40 now. You do have to factor in $60 shipping to the USA though that may be part of the reason for low bids right there.

In my eBay spectating experience Italian frames draw more $ than do Raleighs. I guess there could be any number of reasons why.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   New acquisition questions posted by: Walter on 3/28/2002 at 5:39:09 PM
I picked up a NOS oldie. I intend to give it to my father in law so it's not permanent but I do have questions. It was on eBay a few months ago. I got outbid but the high bidder backed out so I got it on the rebound.

It's a bike boom special. A "Del Romi" from Belguim. Never sold and has been boxed. I'm guessing lower-line 1970s. Some esoteric equipment. Gnutti QR, Altenberger brakes (centerpull) and Simplex d/t shifters and derailleurs. Unfortunately a steel cottered crank. Since I won't inflict a cottered crank on anyone, even my father-in-law, it's gotta go.

Can I get away with just replacing the spindle? Obviously that would be the nearly hassle-free approach.

Has anyone heard of Del Romi? 'Net searches strike out. D/T shifters tell me early 70s as later on this bike probably would have had stem shifters. Is my logic valid?

Heavy frame but alloy rims/hubs and QRs front and back. With a decent crankset this should do my father in law fine if he's willing to try cycling. If not he can give it to his church and I'll take a write-off.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   New acquisition questions posted by smg on 3/28/2002 at 7:18:52 PM
I'd go along with the early-'70s dating. The cottered crank on a low-to-medium-price bike was pretty typical, but I seem to recall that there was little real pattern to the shifters. Flat bar/mixte frame bikes were more likely to have stem instead of DT shifters, and lower-price European bikes were more likely to have DT shifters than were Japanese bikes.
I sympathize with the antipathy to cottered cranks; I never got along with them very well myself. However, I have to confess an attraction for the slender, fluted arms of the better ones - there's a gracefulness to them lacking in the thicker-section alloy arms. I've mixed spindles and BB cups with no problem - one of my bikes has a TA spindle running in Italian-thread Sugino cups.
Sometimes these lower-grade European bikes are surprisingly good. Imagine their impact on someone whose previous idea of "lightweight" meant a Schwinn Varsity!
Your pa-in-law might be happier if you were to replace the Simplex derailleurs with Sun Tour - particularly the front. But save the originals - there's bound to be someone here who needs them to restore a Peugeot or Motobecane.

   BB cup thickness posted by John E on 3/28/2002 at 8:17:35 PM
Nice find, Walter. Although the BB shell is presumably of standard 68mm width, be aware that there are "thick" and "thin" BB cups, which will affect the required distance between the spindle's bearing races. Remove the spindle and take it with you when you shop for a new crank and spindle. I suppose the cups are French-threaded, but since Swiss threading is a remote possibility, be observant when trying to remove the fixed cup.

If you replace the front derailleur and crankset, this would be a great opportunity to upgrade to a triple chainring.

Be warned also that you may have French-threaded pedals, in which case the new cranks will require new pedals, as well.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   New acquisition questions posted by Keith on 3/28/2002 at 8:59:19 PM
I kinda like cottered cranks -- they have that pre-70s, club bike look. But then I rarely use them. The ones I've had on 3-speeds usually didn't come loose. I think shops used to have a tool called a pin press that really got those suckers in. A friend of mine said when he was young his father got so sick of cotter pins coming loose that he welded them in place. Yankee inginuity!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   New acquisition questions posted by Walter on 3/28/2002 at 11:55:56 PM
Thanks for the responses. The vintage questions are my own curiosity, the eventual owner won't care.

That fact has me thinking (oh, oh!). To the best of mine and my wife's knowledge my fr. in law hasn't turned a pedal since his juvenile days. Derailleurs, good, bad, indifferent, retro or modern will be brand new to him. The goal is to make the bike as inviting as possible so to maybe just maybe get him to spend some time on it rather than just a treadmill. What about a freewheeling singlespeed? He lives in a pretty flat area. To my mind an internal gear would be ideal but then I've got to find a 3spd hub and get it laced into the existing 27" rim. That adds a good bit to the expense as I don't build wheels myself. The only singlespeed I own is fixed and uses tracknuts, is QR ok with a freewheel singlespeed?

If the bike remains derailleur then I'll switch to Shimano Cranes that I have in a box somewhere. Btw John E. the rear has plenty of arm for a triple.

It has a Pivo stem which I seem to remember a number of cautions about? If so I've got a 3T and some Cinellis that can go right on.

Any and all thoughts in regards to building this bike up with the goal of getting a non-rider in his early 60s at least interested enough to give it a go will be appreciated.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   New acquisition questions posted by David on 3/29/2002 at 1:30:58 PM
I'd go with the internal-geared hub. www.permaco.com (the SA distributor) can provide a 5-speed "sprinter" hub for a little over $100 w/120mm spacing (no rear trianngle work req'd) Getting a wheel built shouldn't be more than about 30-40 bucks. As always, buying a bike by the bit is much more expensive than finding the one you want all put together!

   bike for father-in-law posted by John E on 3/29/2002 at 3:44:33 PM
I have never understood the fascination with single-speed freewheel conversions, since one can simply shift into a low-to-mid-60s gear, tighten the pivot bolts on the shift levers, and just ride. Before investing too much time or money in this project, clean up and adjust the bike, shift precisely into, say, a 42/18 or 40/17 gear, and let him try it out. If he catches on and enjoys riding, he may come back to you for shifting lessons, after which he will be very glad to have the derailleurs. If he doesn't need high gears, you could always leave the chain on the small ring and remove the front derailleur.

   RE:bike for father-in-law posted by Walter on 3/29/2002 at 10:04:41 PM
I again appreciate the responses. The internal gearing is at this point an expense I can't justify considering this bike may remain as unused in the future as it has been the previous 30 years. Someday I'll build such a bike for myself.

John, I'll go with your advice here. Japanese derailleurs and probably the 3T stem, Pivo still sets off warnings in my mind. He'll be visiting in late Aoril so we'll see what happens then.






MISC:   Carpano Jersey posted by: Keith on 3/28/2002 at 2:50:32 PM
Yesterday a friend gave me a wool jersey with "Carpano" written on it. White with vertical black stripes. The brand of the jersey is Vitore. Pockets front and back. Do any of you know what or who Carpano is (or was)? (My friend got it third-hand in a box-o-old-stuff, so he doesn't know.)







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot...Once Again posted by: Rob on 3/28/2002 at 12:33:28 AM
Is it too soon to talk about Peugeots again??...;) Anyway, during my lunchtime run today, I saw a classic, early 70's I would guess, UO-8, a bit rusty and tired looking, half chrome forks, white with gold highlights on the seat stay ends, all the bits and pieces were there and looked original...rear rack only looked non-original(clamped on, no UE-8 type eyelets). The leather seat was Wrights, black with brown starting to show through...My question...was the Wrights seat an option at the time? What does the seat potentially say about the bike's age? I understand Wrights was taken over by Brooks decades ago.


     Peugeot posted by John E on 3/28/2002 at 3:14:55 PM
For some of us, it is never too early to talk Peugeots again! When I assembled, sold, and repaired Peugeots in the early 1970s, the PR-10s and PX-10s came with Brooks Pro saddles, whereas the AO-8s, UO-8s, and PA-10s had low-end (but quite nice) Ideale or Adga leather saddles. I have never seen a Wright's saddle as original equipment on a 1970s Peugeot. Also, since all of these bikes came pre-packaged from the factory in France, the only component "options" were dealer substitutions, such as stem shifters, suicide brakes, padded vinyl saddles, and on the PA-10s through PX-10s, clincher wheels and/or bigger freewheels.

As to the UO-8's age, the gold-and-black detailing says "late 1960s/early 1970s" to me. The saddle is probably older than the bike.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   George Stratton Bike posted by: Ed on 3/27/2002 at 11:07:34 PM
I recently obtained a George Stratton bike, probably late 1950's. I would appreciate any information which would help to pinpoint the exact age, the value, any collectors who may be interested, etc. regarding this bike.
The details:
George Stratton-SN581171(from bottom bracket), Brakes-GB Coureur Plus, Saddle-Brooks B17, Stem/Bars-GB alloy, Hubs-BH airlite/low flange/alloy wingnuts, Shifters/deraillers- Benelux tourist/long arm rear, Crankset-Williams/steel/cottered, Tubing-Reynolds 531 butted, Pedals-unlabeled steel rattrap type, Paint-original with original decals. I beleive this bike is totally original, and has been ridin only a few thousand miles at most.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   George Stratton Bike posted by Peter on 3/28/2002 at 11:07:06 PM
I think George Stratton's old shop is still there at Stratton Cycles, 101 East Hill, London, SW18 2QB, England. They may be able to give you some information.