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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







FOR SALE:   Gran Sport brake calipers posted by: Keith on 4/24/2002 at 1:28:52 PM
Nothing spectacular or unusual, but FYI I'm posting this to give an example of decent brakes you can get without breaking the bank. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1822496791 Not mine, and I have no relation to the seller.







AGE / VALUE:   Spring clean up days posted by: Schwinnderella dba Kurb King on 4/24/2002 at 2:03:12 AM
This last weekend was spring clean up days in the town just north of me. I drug home 19 bicycles and left at least twice that many more there. Mostly Schwinns,two Fugi,two Raleigh,an unusual Royce Union,one Miyata. Some of these are ready to go and only need the tires pumped up. Most of these bikes will be given away,after I go over them, to Goodwill,or other worthwhile organizations. Some I will give directly to people who need or want to ride them. Two bikes I will keep both of them in very nice condition. Both appear to have been discarded just because they were no longer used,nothing wrong with them.
The first is a 1973 Schwinn Super Sport,lemon,needs tires and a good cleaning,but otherwise nice and original ,except wrong seat. The second a Team Fugi , blue and yellow,this one is just a bit dusty,tires need pumped up but even they are still good. Very nice suntour sprint components,aero levers but friction shifters. This one rides very nicely. Hard to believe anyone would throw out a bicycle like this! Can't wait for this coming weekend when the town three towns west does their cleanup . Happy riding and collecting!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Spring clean up days posted by Kevin K on 4/24/2002 at 7:03:31 PM
Hey Kurb King. Nice finds. You should consider keeping the Super Sport, nice Schwinn collector. as for the Team Fuji, wow. Cool. I've only seen pics. I can't imagine having that kind of cash to toss a bike like that. At least call Goodwill or a friend and offer it to them. Man, I gotta move to a new town ! Kevin K






MISC:   Has anyone seen this before? posted by: Luann on 4/24/2002 at 1:49:07 AM
I have come across a rather unique item but I'm not sure what it is exactly. It's 18" tall, about 5 lbs, it has one wheel with rubber tire, but there are hand grips where a seat should be, and there are two small pedals on either side of the wheel. I'm thinking it might be a "hand stand" unicycle used in circus acts.... It's old, w/original paint of orange and green. I have photos if anyone is willing to give me a clue or assist me in finding out what this is. THANKS!







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What price nostalgia? posted by: Walter on 4/24/2002 at 1:25:46 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1823703844

1978 Raleigh Pro NOS unassembled in the box. Got bid up pretty high pretty quick though it still has a ways to go before catching the PX10 that beat $7K a few months back.

IMHO this is a more desirable bike but that's just my own sense of the aesthetic.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What price nostalgia? posted by Keith on 4/24/2002 at 12:52:37 PM
I'm with you Walter -- but my bias is the result of coming into cycling at a time when Campy NR-equiped bikes were deemed a cut above the Simplex/Stronglight equiped French bikes, Italian and English bikes in general were favored, and a PX-10 was $250, and bikes like the Pro were about $350 and up.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What price nostalgia? posted by Steven on 4/24/2002 at 1:27:50 PM
My first bike was a Peugeot that I bought while living in France. I still nonetheless would rate this bike above the $7000 Peugeot. My own personal rule of thumb is: For single racing bikes: 1st Italian, Second British, Third French; for Touring: 1st French, Second British, 3rd Japanese; for racing tandems: 1st British, 2nd Italian; for touring tandems: 1st French, 2nd British, 3rd American. There always will be exceptions of course.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What price nostalgia? posted by Keith on 4/24/2002 at 1:44:46 PM
Yeah -- I don't mean to dis the PX-10 at all -- a lot of people got their start on bikes like this, or in my case, an even lesser model (Gitane Interclub). A local friend (Chaelie Pace) still rides a PX-10 that he got in the early 70s (he recently had it set up with Campy triple with indexed barcons). I can only guess those willing to spend lots on them now has something to do with the fact that the European peloton started riding similar bikes in the mid-50s, and the trend continued until Campy eclipsed Simplex. (The Dancing Chain's side-by-side comparison of Aquetil's Heylett and Gitane illustrates the point.) But why the focus on Peugeot I'm not sure -- Mercier, Gitane, Heylett, Motobecane and other marques were at least as prominent in that era. Maybe the Thevenet
tdf victory on a similar model plays a part. Peugeot still appears in the peloton (Richard Virenque rode one until he was banned), but get this -- they're U.S.-made Litespeed Utlimates with Peugeot paint and decals.

   Bianchi vs Peugeot posted by John E on 4/24/2002 at 2:41:34 PM
I own a 1980 Peugeot PKN-10 and a 1982 Bianchi Campione d' Italia. Both have mixed tubesets (butted moly steel main triangle) and would be considered comparable in many ways, but the Bianchi definitely wins in paint and metalwork, the Campy NR derailleurs outperform the Peugeot-branded Simplex, and I prefer the classic Campy micro-adjust seat post over its Simplex equivalent. However, the Peugeot's Galli brakes work better than the Bianchi's early Campys, and I would rate the Stronglight cranks at least on a par with the Ofmegas.

The Bianchi is a blast to ride, but since the Peugeot can accommodate 28mm tyres and racks for commuting and general transportation, it is a superb all-round general-purpose bike.






MISC:   Car Free Day posted by: Keith on 4/23/2002 at 7:40:16 PM
I don't know if this is local only or national, but Thursday April 25 is Car Free Day hre in Columbus, Ohio. Maybe check with your local club to see if it's going on in your area too, if you're interested.


   RE:MISC:   Car Free Day posted by Gralyn on 4/24/2002 at 12:50:14 PM
I drive in 95 miles to work - and 95 miles back home every day - I don't think I will ride my bike in on the 25th!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Car Free Day posted by Oscar on 4/24/2002 at 2:35:16 PM
Holy guacamole, G. I hope you have a decent car stereo.

    Car Free Day posted by John E on 4/24/2002 at 2:44:02 PM
Gralyn has my sincere condolences! I am blessed with a car-free commute (bike or commuter rail).

   RE:MISC:   Car Free Day posted by Rob on 4/24/2002 at 5:27:47 PM
I have an almost perfect bike commute...9 miles in (40 to 45 mins) and 9 miles home (48 to 53min). Driving usually takes 35 mins in and 50 to 55 mins home. Missed probably 10 days max this past winter due to snow and ice(and one day of high wind). Times are not so fast during dark, wet weather, but seldom more the 6 mins longer. The longest commute I have heard of is 18.5 miles each way, which the guy tries to do twice a week...and for some reason...on a mtn. bike...

   RE:MISC:   Car Free Day posted by Keith on 4/25/2002 at 12:43:20 PM
I'm fortunate in that regard too. 12 of the 14 miles I ride to work are on a paved bike path by the Olentangy River. On the way home I meet several regular commuter friends (and it's a growing group) and we ride north out of the downtown together. About half of my miles in a given year (usually about 5000 total) are from commuting.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Summit 12 sp posted by: darryl on 4/23/2002 at 7:35:34 PM
I just brought home a 12 speed Summit Comp Pro TR which I paid $47 for. It is equipped as follows:
Araya 700c super hard anodized rims


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Summit 12 sp posted by darryl on 4/23/2002 at 7:51:10 PM
Sorry about the brake in my posting
Suntour Cyclone derailleurs
Sugino GP crank w/Cycloid chainrings
MKS alloy platform pedals
Suntour downtube shifters not indexed
Suzue sealed-tech hubs
Diacomp GX brakes and levers
Jaguar blk leather saddle
Nitto Olympiade 115 handlebars
Nitto stem
The bike has a 25" frame is extremely clean with only few scratches. My guess this is a mid range Japanese model. Comments please.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Summit 12 sp posted by Keith on 4/23/2002 at 8:09:24 PM
Any tubing sticker? Sounds well worth $47 for practical transportation. Suntour Cyclone -- very nice, same with Suzie and Nitto. Last year I aquired a Japenese-made(early 80s) Raleigh Super Course with similar components, and consider it a solid, functional bike.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Summit 12 sp posted by darryl on 4/23/2002 at 9:52:57 PM
The only sticker on frame is "KUWAHARA OSAKA JAPAN"
Tubing is probably straight guage steel (cro-mo). Bike is lightweight.






AGE / VALUE:   Sterling bicycle posted by: John Head on 4/23/2002 at 6:30:41 PM
I recently ran across an old fixed-gear bicycle. It was made by Sterling Bicuycle Co. of Chicago and has patenet dates in the 1892. It has wood rims and pneumatic tires. I think it is a racing bicycle because there appears to be some lightweight parts. The hubs, crank arms, and chain ring appear to be some sort of alloy. The fork is unpainted and also looks like alloy or aluminam. The chain ring appears as though the outer portion can be removed to expose a smaller chain ring. Does anyone know anything about Sterling bicycles, and a ballpark value?







FOR SALE:   Old Schwinn and Raleigh dealer Open House - 28-APR-02 posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com on 4/23/2002 at 3:51:59 PM

THIS WEEKEND!! 28-APR-02 THIS WEEKEND!!

Ray's Cyclery (Maynard Massachusetts) is having a Vintage Bicycle sale on Sunday, April 28, 2002.
They are placing all of their new bikes downstairs and filling their shop floor with original Sting-Rays, Cycle Trucks, motorized bicycles, ballooners, European and English lightweights and other great vintage bicycles.
They've been a Schwinn/Raleigh dealership since 1969 and have some great bikes.
Click on the ad above for directions, pictures and more information.

-Vin
VVVintage Vintage Bicycles
http://OldRoads.com







MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by: Gralyn on 4/23/2002 at 12:45:53 PM
A technical question: I want to have a wider range of gears on my bike. The high gears are plenty high enough - what I want is a lower gear. I'm talking about most of the common japanese equipment from the 80's. Is it possible to find a 1st gear with more teeth that I can replace on my gear cluster? For example, if I have a shimano cluster - the largest gear has 28t - can I find a 32 - 35t gear to replace?
Also, is it possible to add a 3rd ring to the chain ring? Are there any that will bolt on to most common 2-cog systems?
Had anyone done this? Any tips, advice?
I would like to try either one....either add the 3rd ring, or swap out 1st gear for a lower 1st gear.


   RE:MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by Keith on 4/23/2002 at 1:35:36 PM
You can do all of this stuff. Sheldon Brown's Harris sells "Megarange" freewheels and cassettes with 34 teeth. You need a special megarange derailleur with an extra long cage -- Harris sells that too. Harris also sells "Triplizer" kits -- http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html, but I have no experience with them. Of course you could buy a triple crankset. In general, a triple crank will require a longer bottom bracket spindle, a long cage derailleur, and a front derailleur with enough travel to cover all three chainrings (some triple front derailleurs have a cage shaped differently than double fronts - i.e. the inner side of the cage is lower to scoop up the chain from the small chainring). As with doubles, triples can be set up with half-step or crossover gearing -- go to Rivendell site for a good explanation of that -- I don't want to take up more space! So, lower gears are available in several arrangements, but, as with most things in life, it's could cost some money. The cheapest route I've found is to get a garage sale mountain bike that's otherwise trashed but the drivetrain is good, and transplant the mtb drivetrain to your road bike.

    Technical Question - Gearing posted by John E on 4/23/2002 at 2:08:54 PM
The cost and complexity of the changeover depends on your current hardware. If I had the default 1.5-step 52-40 / 14-28 10-speed setup of the 1980s, I would first check to see whether my spider would support a 36T inner ring. Second, if you have an older SunTour or Shimano derailleur whose jockey wheel is aligned with the cage pivot, it can probably easily take a 30 or 32T, possibly even a 34T, low-gear cog. Third, to avoid creating large gaps in the gear ratio progression, I would look for an "ultra" 6-speed freewheel, which has the same overall width as your 5-speed. If you have a standard 6-speed, consider a 7-speed, all of which are of the narrower width.

You can get pretty good range out of racing-style short-cage front and rear derailleurs. I have converted my 12-speed Peugeot into a medium-range 18-speed, 48-45-34 / 13-24, which my short-cage SunTour Cyclone II rear and Shimano 600 front handle gracefully.

   RE:MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by Keith on 4/23/2002 at 2:34:02 PM
Chuck Harris, who lives not far from where I am in central Ohio, has the ultimate solution and probably the widest gears around -- he makes them. He has made his own super-mega-range derailleurs, and has made his own giant-size chainrings and cogs. His road bike, which I've seen numerous times at rides here, has a 26-48-60 on the front, and a 13-42 on the back. Anyway, John is right as usual about the range of the old Suntours -- I recently set up a bike for my son with a Suntour AR, and it's handling a 14-34 beautifully.

   holy #%$@, Batman! posted by John E on 4/23/2002 at 7:00:06 PM
60-48-26/13-42? That's 17 to 125 gear-inches, the hard way. I think I would try 50-40-24/11-39 with a 110-74 BCD, or 50-40-22/11-35 with a "microdrive" crankset and standard wide-range derailleurs.

   RE:MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by Keith on 4/23/2002 at 7:37:45 PM
Keep in mind this bike is from the 60s, and I don't think a freewheel body from that era would accept an 11 tooth cog. I think it's incredible that he made the stuff himself -- chainrings, cogs and derailleur -- whether it's the most compact possible arrangement or not.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by Keith on 4/23/2002 at 8:11:23 PM
P.S. FWIW Sheldon Brown credits Chuck Harris as having made the first derailleur made in America.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by smg on 4/23/2002 at 10:25:27 PM
My fantasy would be for someone to resurrect the Sun Tour "Perfect"/"Pro Compe" freewheels. You could assemble almost any gearing scheme you could imagine for just a few bucks. I miss them badly.

   RE:MISC:   Technical Question - Gearing posted by Jimbo Jones on 4/24/2002 at 7:25:39 AM
Five speeds tend to have a very large first gear. I put a schwinn middle weight rear cluster on a jap bike and could climb walls. The diferences between each gear was irratateing though. My guess is that if you wish for a lower gear than is offered you don't fit the bike properly. If one has to walk a bike then one should. Going slower than one can walk defeats the purpose of haveing a bike.






FOR SALE:   Hercules posted by: Jon on 4/23/2002 at 2:38:36 AM
I got a Hercules frame & fork for sale with Sturmey Archer 3 Speed shifting lever, Sturmey Archer seat post, chrome brake levers,crank,handlebars,pedal arms,rack,Hercules stamped nack and chain. the bike is missing fenders and rims. Very nice frame & fork. Asking $100 plus S&H.







AGE / VALUE:   NOS BLUEMELS MUDGUARD PIECES posted by: Kevin K on 4/22/2002 at 7:16:30 PM
Hi. See for sale section for details. Thanks







MISC:   Riding Fixed-Gear posted by: Gralyn on 4/22/2002 at 3:06:00 PM
Fixed Gear: I've been riding my fixed-gear bikes a lot lately (My recently built Nishiki, and my old Hercules). I'm getting more and more used to fixed gear. However, I am finding that in certain situations - or like in panic situations - those instincts / methods from over 30 years of riding experience try to kick in. Like for example, having to make a quick, unexpected sharp turn to avoid a collision - an instinct would be to hold the pedal down (coasting) on the side opposite the turn - but the pedal doesn't do that - it turns anyway - then scrapes the pavement into your turn. Just things like that - which will only come with more experience.

One thing I found to be very profound - was getting back on a regular free-wheel multi-speed bike after riding the fixed-gear bikes! It feels really weird! I know I must look funny when I start pedaling one! I commence to slow the bike down with back-pressure on the pedals...but it doesn't work!

But I have found that I really do enjoy riding fixed-gear - a lot more that I thought I would! Hmm. I have a couple more bikes I could convert to fixed-gear.

Does anyone else have any difficulties switching back and forth? Does switching back and forth get any easier with more experience?


   RE:MISC:   Riding Fixed-Gear posted by Keith on 4/22/2002 at 3:31:31 PM
Sheldon Brown has an article on cornering which describes (but doesn't endorse) the method of keeping the bike more upright but leaning your body to the inside of the corner -- that helps keep the clearance you need, but take corners slower on fixed gear anyway. What's hitting -- the crank or the pedal? -- if it's the pedal, look for ways to increase clearance -- remove the point on the quill, for example (I always hated those anyway). I don't have a problem switching back and forth, but I started riding fixed gear in 1973. The switching back and forth will become easier over time -- it will become second nature -- reflexive, just like other bike handling skills. Basically I tend to not coast unless it's a really steep downhill, so I suppose the fixed gear style pervades all of my riding. Other vintage skills that I believe improve form include riding rollers (until you can do it no hands), which helps eliminate bounse from your pedal stroke, and track stands, which, unless you're track racing, are probably just showing off, but fun nonetheless.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Riding Fixed-Gear posted by Warren on 4/23/2002 at 12:53:39 AM
I ride fixed to work everyday and usually find that the road bike feels slow when I return to it...it goes away. Keep your eyes out for a shorter crankset...165 mm will give you more clearance. Some day you may want to go to a friendlier frame. The newer breed of road-specific fixed gear bikes are nice rides...brake mounts, fender clearance, higher BB's and slightly more relaxed geometry than true track bikes. Check out Gunnar, Surly and Urbanites for examples of these. But they aren't vintage and they are not necessarily cheap!






AGE / VALUE:   Repaint posted by: darryl on 4/22/2002 at 1:53:21 AM
How much damage(loss value) is done when a vintage(1972) Italian road bike, Campy equipped, is repainted and the original decals are not replaced. I am trying to find out the builder from the one (original) owner of the bike. The re-paint job was done well.


   original paint and decals in good shape -- priceless posted by John E on 4/22/2002 at 3:18:47 AM
Collectors really go for original paint jobs and decal sets, particularly if they are in pretty good or better condition. Even a professional repaint lowers the value of the frame significantly.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repaint posted by Keith on 4/22/2002 at 2:16:43 PM
The bike is worth less epainted. For an example of a supreme restoration, go to campyonly.com and look at Richard Sach's restored Masi. The maker will determine the value here too -- some Italian marks are the most highly sought after bikes of this era -- Masi (Italian and American), Cinelli, Colnago, De Rosa, etc. Other more common marks -- Atala, Legnano, Bottecchia, are worth far less, although they may have the same equipment and tubing. If the original owner can't identify the name, I'd cruise the Italian steel on exibit at classicrendezvous.com -- try to identify unique features such as seat cluster treatment, unique bottom bracket shell and lug cut-outs, etc.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repaint posted by Walter on 4/23/2002 at 1:31:44 AM
Just to offer a contrasting view for consideration. There's collectible Italian and then there's collectible Italian. Certainly it's a mistake in $ value to repaint something like a Cinelli, DeRosa, Masi and I'll add Colnago for my own reasons. :)

However if the bike is one of the many Italian marques that while they ride wonderfully just don't get the collector's salivary glands going then I'd maintain you don't hurt yourself by painting. You preserve the frame, eliminate any rust and give the bike a "new" gloss. This increases the appeal for you and the potential non-collector who's looking to buy the nice Italian steel s/he either had as a youth or wanted and couldn't afford when younger.

My own example is a Basso I resprayed. It had already been repainted once so there wasn't really an issue but if it had had an original but scratched, chipped and flaked paint as many Italian paints end up I'd have respryed w/o compunction. Quick release skewers and quick release paint are both Italian contributions to our sport.

So if it's one of the marques I mentioned above (there's other candidates too I just rattled a few off my head) or if you determine that it's older than the early 1970s my advice is don't touch it. Otherwise why not treat yourself to a "new" bike for a small part of the price?

My .02 others probably won't agree.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repaint posted by Keith on 4/23/2002 at 1:04:58 PM
I actually agree with you, Walter. A complete but less-than-perfect Leganano, Botteccia, etc. will never be a high zoot collectable, at least not in our lifetime, so if you'll feel better about it with fresh paint, go for it. I intend to do just that with a Motobecane Grand Record I bought last year. The bike rides wonderfully, but the original paint has lots of nickes and scratches. I intend to paint it without regard to correct color, decals, or any of that (I'll preserve the brass enameled headbadge, of course). The high-zoot collectors aren't going to go for these less-sought after brands anyway. I pointed out Sach's Masi retoration of an example of perfection.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BSA Racer posted by: Tom on 4/21/2002 at 11:04:18 PM
Does anyone know about a BSA Tour De France 10 speed bike. I have been offered one but I have not seen it. Has a fork mount light bracket. 27 x 1 1/4" tires. I have not see it but was told it is very nice shape. I assume it is a 1960's. Does any one have one or heard of one? Is it a cheap bike or a nice 531 frame?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BSA Racer posted by Tom on 4/22/2002 at 10:00:42 PM
The BSA has Raleigh Sachs/Huret style derailleurs Simplex levers, Raleigh made in France rims, Brooks plastic seat,headset and alloy crank marked Raleigh, Raleigh weinmann 610 brakes. No frame decal for type of tubing. What would it be worth?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BSA Racer posted by Walter on 4/23/2002 at 1:40:36 AM
My knowledge is very incomplete. The bike sounds original which is a plus and your dating is where'd I guess as well. I have heard of BSAs mentioned as collectible bikes, certainly there motorcycles are. If it's cheap go for it. You'll certainly have a rare bike and if you have any vintage motorcycle hangouts anywhere near where you live pedal over, you'll get attention.

Even though it's a derailleur bike you might do well to post on the English Roadster board as well there are some people who hang out there who know their English bikes.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BSA Racer posted by Walter on 4/23/2002 at 1:47:43 AM
Actually after reading your post more carefully I'd move the age guess well into the 1970s. This is based on the Raleigh proprietary alloy (I'm guessing cotterless) crank. The plastic seat is not a sign of real high quality. I'm just finishing up a 1970s Belgian made bike for my father in law that came with a "Grand Prix" plastic seat. This is modelled after the old Cinelli Unicantor saddle but obviously isn't the same.

Yes I swapped it out for dear old dad in law. :)

You need to look at the bike. Look for a Reynolds sticker. Pick it up see if you get a hernia.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BSA Racer posted by Steven on 4/23/2002 at 2:31:53 AM
BSA stands for Birmingham Small Arms. They have been in the bicycle trade for a long time and the brand in itself does not mean anything. Their bikes often had rifles built into the spider of the chainset. Perhaps in Britain you might find something else, but it is my experience that they never were anything to write home about. By the way they also built guns, rifles...






MISC:   Atala needs french pedal posted by: bob on 4/21/2002 at 9:27:31 PM
I have a 73 Atala that needs new pedals, but the crankset is a Stronglight and apparently has french threads. I paid $11 for the bike, and will not be in a position to resore it for some time(though i will, as it came with compagnolo, fiamme), but for now I just need some cheap, strapless pedals -- are there any new/used with french threads, or is it best to tap these for 9/16 el cheapo pedals?. -- thanks, bob adams


   RE:MISC:   Atala needs french pedal posted by Oscar on 4/22/2002 at 2:32:52 AM
Not all French cranks have French pedals. Most of the French-made bikes (and components) that were marketed for the US came with English threaded pedals.

   Atala needs french pedal posted by John E on 4/22/2002 at 3:13:36 AM
If you see a "BSC" or "9/16x24" inscription on the backside of one or both cranks, you can safely use standard English-threaded pedals.

   RE:MISC:   Atala needs french pedal posted by Mike Slater on 4/22/2002 at 3:37:39 AM
If its a nice Stronglight crankset, don't re-tap the holes. Harris cyclery will sell ya french threaded pedals for $39. Yeah...I know...the bike only cost $11, but if you plan to restore it - why not start with the pedals.

   retapping pedals posted by Steven on 4/22/2002 at 4:08:56 AM
Retapping the pedals is also not a cost-free effort. If you simply retap, you are virtually assured that the new pedals will rip out. You would therefore need to tap and install sleeves. The $39 dollars then look cheap.

   RE:MISC:   Atala needs french pedal posted by Keith on 4/22/2002 at 2:22:10 PM
It might be cheaper to find some other cranks from another garage sale bike to use temporarily until a more complete resporation can be done. I don't recall whether Stronglight crank spindles (assuming that's what you have) had a unique taper. I'm thinking you could find an old Sugino (other than Maxy), Shimano, or Suntour crankset, perhaps even from one of the guys on this site.

   crank spindle taper posted by John E on 4/22/2002 at 6:11:39 PM
I think Shimano was the odd man out on crank spindle taper -- same angle as everyone else, but different end cross-section. I have had no trouble swapping Sugino Mighty Compes, Stronglight B-9s, TA Professionals, and Nervar Stars around.

   RE:MISC:   Atala needs french pedal posted by bob on 4/23/2002 at 12:48:47 PM
thanks for all the info -- i will search the ads for something used, possibly suntour.