OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   D'arienzo / Basso posted by: Padraic on 4/4/2002 at 4:46:28 AM
Several years back I got into road riding and purchased a used bike from my local shop. The bike had been traded in by a former semi-pro racer. I know it's not ancient, but I am trying to figure out what year it might be and how much it's worth. The frame says D'Arienzo, although the dropouts for the rear wheel have a Basso stamp. The bike still has Shimano BioPace rings which where original or close to it, and Galli brakes. It has a blue to yellow fade paint job with full chrome underneath. One more question: does anybody know of NorCal frame painters who do chrome, and how much should it cost? Thanks so much for your help!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   D'arienzo / Basso posted by Walter on 4/4/2002 at 1:52:01 PM
I own a Basso frame which does have Basso rear DOs. I didn't know they supplied DOs to other builders but apparently they did. My Basso is Columbus SL and from the mid-80s or so.

Galli brakes and Biopace chainwheels? Sounds ike 1980s to me but that's an esoteric mix to say the least I'd guess it was at least partially customized.

   Galli brakes posted by John E on 4/4/2002 at 3:24:49 PM
Walter's right about the age. My 1980 Peugeot PKN-10 has Galli sidepull calipers, which I believe are original equipment. If you don't mind shipping the frame to southern California, I can vouch for CyclArt's workmanship, although Jim will warn you that rechroming is the most expensive part of refinishing a frame.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Carlton Bikes posted by: Tom on 4/4/2002 at 4:21:22 AM
Does anyone know when the last Carltons were made. I saw a Carlton bike today in a bike shop and it had the old headbadge with the racer on it. The bike was a Raleigh Carlton Criterium. All the components had Raleigh on them. The bike was very light green. Plain looking lugs. I didn't see the type of tubing. It was in mint shape. The bike looked new. What year could this be. It was in with other old bikes and I could not make out the components. Mostly alloy parts. It was too big for me but I was wondering what year it would be.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Carlton Bikes posted by dafydd on 4/5/2002 at 1:59:08 PM
I believe the Worksop plant, which was the original home of Carltons before and after they were bought be Raleigh, closed in 1974. However, I don't know if they carried on the name after that time.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Carlton Bikes posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/5/2002 at 8:28:57 PM
There was a fire at the Carlton works and a young man burned to death. It was a terrible, upsetting mess. I will have to dig out the article for the exact story.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Carlton Bikes posted by Catfood Rob on 4/7/2002 at 7:05:53 PM
The Carlton name is still used gy Raleigh to this day here in the U.K. usually medium spec race bikes, and good spec "mountain" roadbikes.






MISC:   Help please i am dumb posted by: Lindsey on 4/3/2002 at 10:36:10 PM
Hello. I have an old red bicycle which says schwinn suburban on the side. i have been riding it and the brake cable just snapped one day. i have no idea how to tell the model number or anything. i cannot find any markings on the bike, other than on the old brake squeezer thingy on the back it says type ls 2.4. please help!


   RE:MISC:   Help please i am dumb posted by Eric Amlie on 4/3/2002 at 10:59:40 PM
Easiest thing is to take it to your local bike shop or bike repair business and have them replace your broken brake cable. Probably wont cost you more than $10.

      Help please posted by John E on 4/4/2002 at 2:40:00 AM
1) You are not "dumb," Lindsey! You figured out where to ask for help.
2) Eric's counsel is sound, as usual.
3) For safety, I advocate replacing BOTH brake cables and all four brake pads, if they are originals. All of these parts are highly standardized and readily available, and today's high-quality pads (I use KoolStops) and cables work much better than those of 30 years ago. Don't skimp on bike brakes any more than you would skimp on a brake job for your car.

   RE:   Help please posted by Wings on 4/5/2002 at 6:32:39 AM
All of the above is outstanding advice. Brake cables are cheap and having both cables new and lubricated would certainly feel better. Kool Stop pads are the finishing touch! They do make a difference on every bike!

Is this the Lindsey that needed a reflector last year?







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   chrome full-NR/SR 1971 Benotto posted by: John E on 4/3/2002 at 4:56:08 PM
While waiting to board the commuter train last night, I met a gentleman with a full-chrome Benotto, with almost all of its original Campy NR and SR components, including high-flange hubs and Benotto-logoed cranks. The effect was spoiled somewhat by big black plastic mountain bike-style toeclips, and I quickly noticed the modern sealed cartridge BB, but the chrome was in fabulous condition after 30 years near the Pacific Ocean. He told me he had just inherited it from his father, who had bought it new in 1971.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   chrome full-NR/SR 1971 Benotto posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/3/2002 at 7:32:00 PM
At this point you handed him cash and you now own the bike, right? It's always nice to see something like this.

    chrome full-NR/SR 1971 Benotto posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 10:17:31 PM
This bike is definitely not for sale, partly for sentimental reasons, and partly because he likes riding it. He told me that several people have criticized him for treating it as a daily driver instead of hanging it in a home museum or shrine, but his philosophy is more aligned with mine, which is that these old bikes are to be ridden and enjoyed. (I am sure the guy who paid $7200 for that 1962 Peugeot PX-10 disagrees with me!)






AGE / VALUE:   Nishiki Professional posted by: John S on 4/3/2002 at 3:27:04 PM
Calling on John E!
Saw a Nishiki Professional frameset on ebay. Very similar to the Nishiki Road Compe in style - early 70's with that "bamboo"-style lettering (I don't know what else to call it). Was the Pro Nishiki's top-line? What components did it have? I lust for this frameset, primarily for style, but am reluctant to bid too much.


     Nishiki Professional posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 4:52:02 PM
By the mid-1970s, Nishiki had abandoned its "Semi-Pro" and "Road Compe" designations in favor of the more widely recognized, Raleigh-inspired "Competition" and "Professional" labels. (In the late 1970s, Peugeot applied "Competition" and "Super Competition" decals to its PK-10/PR-10 and PX-10.) Accordingly, the Professional you saw is probably a mid-to-late 1970s specimen, with (Ishiwata or Tange?) CrMo forks, stays, and butted main tubes. Nishiki frames of that period had a significantly more resilient, responsive ride than my dead-feeling 1971 Semi-Pro.

   RE:  Nishiki Professional posted by hump on 4/4/2002 at 7:05:02 AM
In the late 70's, Nishiki made a bike called the "ONP" which is listed in a bike book (I cant remember the name but it went thru at least three printings in 71,74 and 79) as a frame only. The frame had a cinelli style fork and almost vertical rear dropouts! I know John E is experienced and knowledgeable expert when it comes to Nishikis. Did you ever see any of these bikes?

   ONP posted by John E on 4/4/2002 at 3:29:35 PM
ONP = "Odd Nishiki Professional"?

No, I never saw that particular model, but I was out of touch with the bike business (except to buy tyres, brake pads, and other perishable replacement parts) and heavily focused on career development and home improvement during the late 1970s and early 1980s.






AGE / VALUE:   1940's german steyr bicycle posted by: jeff anderson on 4/3/2002 at 2:28:40 AM
I have a german made steyr bicycle I think is from the 40's.
I am not sure of the value of it. I got the bike to fix up for my wife to have a vintage bike but if the bike is worth a lot I would rather sell it to someone with the time and know how to restore it. I have the serial #'s and all the orig. parts seem to be there. any news will help thanks


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1940's german steyr bicycle posted by Steven on 4/5/2002 at 12:40:05 PM
Jeff,

Steyr bicycles are more likely to be Austrian, not German. All decals and such will be writtn in German language, but it is highly unlikely that the bike was made in Germany.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1940's german steyr bicycle posted by Jeff on 4/5/2002 at 2:19:10 PM
Thanks for responding Steven, We came across this fact too, however he plaque above the rear tire says that it was made in Germany, Do you have any books to use as references? We have hit a brick wall in our search.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1940's german steyr bicycle posted by Steven on 4/6/2002 at 1:38:44 AM
I don't know how good your German is, but there are many books on the Steyr-Werke AG. It was originally a weapons factory located in Steiermark in Austria. The founder was Johann Puch. Later the bicycle brand became known as Puch. They sold arms, cars, bicycles... If you can read German, you could try a book by Mr. F. F. Ehn, titled: Das große P.-Buch. Die Zweiräder von 1890 bis 1987. I am interested in knowing in what language the Made in Germany label is written in and exactly where the label is located. It doesn't correspond to the 40's period you described.






AGE / VALUE:   1940's german steyr bicycle posted by: jeff anderson on 4/3/2002 at 2:28:40 AM
I have a german made steyr bicycle I think is from the 40's.
I am not sure of the value of it. I got the bike to fix up for my wife to have a vintage bike but if the bike is worth a lot I would rather sell it to someone with the time and know how to restore it. I have the serial #'s and all the orig. parts seem to be there. any news will help thanks







AGE / VALUE:   White Raleigh Pro posted by: Mike on 4/3/2002 at 12:40:51 AM
Hey folks, I recent picked up a white Raleigh Pro frame with a three-band (red-yellow-black) pattern on the seat tube, an anniversary headbadge and a 4-number serial # that begins with a D. Campy drop-outs, sloping fork crown, set up with Weinman brakes. It actually appears to have more in common with the later INTLs than the Pros, based on seat-stay style and length of rear triangle. I believe based on serial # it is a 1969, but not positive. Anyone seen this paint scheme or familiar with that age of Pro? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike


      White Raleigh Pro posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 2:41:58 AM
My brother-in-law has one. I think you're about right concerning the age. Racing bikes of the 1960s tended to have long stays and fork rakes, because the Tour de France was still being run on cobblestones. For the typical nonracer, this can be an asset, although one does have to maintain a very smooth pedal stroke with these spongy frames.

   RE:   White Raleigh Pro posted by Mike on 4/4/2002 at 1:59:51 AM
Thanks, John E....Never been bothered by the whippiness of those long stays -- until I stand up on a hill. With that bike about done, I've now moved on to another project, a 1956 Rudge Pathfinder with an FM SA rear hub...Should be fun....take care, Mike

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   White Raleigh Pro posted by David on 4/4/2002 at 3:14:37 AM
Did you buy that beautiful Rduge Pathfinder that was on Ebay a couple weeks ago?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   White Raleigh Pro posted by Mike on 4/5/2002 at 1:13:14 AM
Yeah, couldn't help myself. I got the wife a really clean 58 Rudge 3 speed in December and got a couple old Rudge catalogs around that time. I spotted the Pathfinder then, and decided to get one if I ever saw one. Lo and behold...they're pretty cool historically, one of those transition bikes between the old three speeds and the modern 10 speeds, complete with drop handlebars and a 531 frame. I was suprised there was not more interest in it, but pleased to get it. The Rudge name is not as well known as Raleigh and consequently doesn't draw as many bidders, but they're obviously the same bike, and in some ways appear little fancier than the comparable Raleighs. I've ended up getting two fairly rare SA hubs in the process: the 4 speed FM on the Pathfinder, and an SW on the wife's, which is that SuperWide ratio hub that was made for one year and discontinued as "troublesome." Hers works perfectly and is quieter than most others. Take care, Mike






MISC:   AVA Death stem posted by: Eric Amlie on 4/2/2002 at 9:51:05 PM
For those interested in seeing what the AVA "death stem" looks like, there is one on Ebay right now. The auction will end in a few hours. The url is http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815565127


   RE:MISC:   AVA Death stem posted by Wings on 4/3/2002 at 7:32:36 AM
Thanks for posting that!
I always wondered what it looked like and I know now I have seen it before!

   AVA Death stem posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 10:19:40 PM
Dream bike: Viscount Lambert with a factory-original "fork of death" and retrofitted with a "stem of death."

   RE:AVA Death stem posted by Oscar on 4/5/2002 at 3:17:59 AM
I hope karen94 has paid her life insurance premium.

   RE:RE:AVA Death stem posted by Steven on 4/6/2002 at 1:43:49 AM
The danger of a broken stem is highly overrated. I have had teh misfortune of breaking two in my life and apart from the shock, nothing truly dangerous happened. Forks are quite another matter! So, I would prefer to be the insurance agent able to raise Karen94's premium rather than Karen94 being worried about insurance coverage.






MISC:   It came to me in a dream... posted by: bacoes on 4/2/2002 at 7:33:57 PM
I finally obtained a ratty tandem for the wife and I to try out and see if we like riding together. Comunication being the key, she likes to complain about having to pedal at the same time and speed as me. Anyways, here's my idea. Find one of those old Shimano positron bikes with the freewheeling crank and swap it with the stokers crank. I can't remember what the rings were on them, but I figure I can match it with my crank and keep the sync chain happy. Any ideas?


   freewheeling cranks for tandems posted by John E on 4/2/2002 at 8:02:14 PM
Yes, this would permit your stoker to goof off, but it will also reduce the number of available gear ratios by a third or half, because the synchro chain will occupy one of the stoker's rings.

   RE:freewheeling cranks for tandems posted by Clyde on 4/3/2002 at 1:34:27 AM
Wouldn't you have to put the freewheeling crank in the captain's position?

   freewheeling cranks for tandems posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 4:54:45 PM
As long as the power is through the captain's chainring to the stoker's inside chainring, and then from the stoker's outer chainring(s) to the cogset, the stoker is free to freewheel. The more common cross-over tandem synchro system won't work in this context.

   dual dueling front freewheels posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 4:55:58 PM
For even more fun and versatility, put FF systems on both cranksets!

   RE:dual dueling front freewheels posted by ken on 4/3/2002 at 7:10:16 PM
I have yet to see a Shimano FF that wasn't on an Ashtabula crankset...

   RE:MISC:   It came to me in a dream... posted by Steve Birmingham on 4/4/2002 at 12:43:49 AM
last year I worked on a bike with a 3 piece ffw setup. I don't remember what brand or model, but definetly 3 piece.

   RE:RE:MISC:   It came to me in a dream... posted by Walter on 4/4/2002 at 2:32:58 AM
Some of the imported Schwinns, in particular the "World" line had some models with the ffw and 3 piece cotterless cranks. I remember seeing them in the late 70s and it probably continued into the early 80s. Not great sellers. They weighed about 30lbs when the standard for a decent grade bike was getting down to about 25 or so.

   RE:MISC:   It came to me in a dream... posted by David on 4/4/2002 at 3:18:19 AM
My 1976 Nishiki brochure has a pic of a "FFS Tourist" with 3-piece crank.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   It came to me in a dream... posted by richie on 4/6/2002 at 6:06:58 AM
My '84 Schwinn Catalog shows the Varsity with a Shimano Positron derailleur and front freewheel system with ashtabula crankset.






AGE / VALUE:   Schrader v Presta Valve posted by: Kevin K on 4/2/2002 at 1:52:51 PM
Hi. I've purchased a nice set of 700's wheels for my wife's bike. The original set had Schrader valves. This set uses Presta. Now my wife is more than able to change out a tube should she have problems on the road. My questions are 1) I wish to purchase a pump for the bike. I've seen these new units that carry compressed air / gas. Good idea or not to buy this type for her bike. 2) Sould I buy one that is specific for the Presta valve or should I buy a Schrader valve pump and one of those adapters which sorta defeats the purpose doesn't it? 3) She will be riding almost 20 miles per day a couple times a week ( possibly ) I need to look for a good, tough inner tube. Any ideas. The tires that were originally on her bike were Michelin Tracers 700x32's. Really big tires. I've dropped down to Continental 700x25's so she can " get out and move a bit easier". I've explained the ride will be a bit different but less effort. So thanks. Kevin


   pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by John E on 4/2/2002 at 5:31:18 PM
1) Get a full-size frame-fit bilingual Blackburn pump. Skip the CO2 cartridges; one does not need to be Jack LaLanne to inflate Presta valves with a high-quality full-size pump.
2) No adaptor is needed. By flipping the two inserts in the pump head, she can deal with her own Prestas or help friends with Schraeders.
3) I commute on 28mm Armadillo tyres with ordinary inner tubes and without Mr. Tuffy liners. I can go hundreds of miles between punctures.

   RE:pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by Kevin K on 4/3/2002 at 1:26:41 AM
Hi John. I really need some advice and I'm hoping you'll help me out. I've installed the newer wheelset with the Continental 700x25's onto my wife's bike. Wow. Big difference. The Michelin Tracers were probally a very generous 700x32 as they look more like Schwinn middleweight tires. Now these Continental's look way undersized. Here is my concern: Which tire is she safer on ? Is riding on the 32's at about 80-85lbs of pressure safer than the 25's up at 95-100lbs. The bike is sized correctly for her but I'm now concerned that should she hit an uneven spot in the road whereas the Michelins might have been more forgiving these littler 25's will put her into a tough situation. It's one thing when my own inexperience puts me in a pickle. I don't need to pratice on my wife ! I need some advice from guys that know and have set up bikes. By the way the bike is a Peugeot Balade. Early 90's commuter style that I've upgraded considerably. It's correct, not just a mismatched mess. So please advise me on this. Thanks, Kevin

   RE:pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by Steven on 4/3/2002 at 1:27:03 AM
Zefal also makes a frame fit pump that has both adaptors fitted in the pump. I have one that is over 20 years old and still working like a charm. Tyre size doesn't affect flats as much as underinflating the tyres. Back in my youth, I circumnavigated the USA with only one flat. Gloves also help you get fewer flats if you use them to clean tyres from time to time.

   pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by John E on 4/3/2002 at 4:23:17 PM
I think Steven is spot-on regarding Zefal, (I happily own two HP-X pumps as well as the Blackburn), but some folks on bikeforums.com apparently swear at, rather than by, the brand. He is also correct about inflation -- too little is as bad as too much.

On dry, decent pavement only, I ride 23mm Continental Ultra2000s for sport. For general transportation, I feel somewhat safer on my 28mm Specialized Armadillos, which I inflate to about 95-100PSI rear / 90-95PSI front, which is 5-10 PSI lower than the pressure I use in the Contis.

   RE:pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by Bill Putnam on 4/3/2002 at 5:20:48 PM
Here's another vote for the Zefal HPX pump. The only down
side to this pump is that it's heavier than other options.
But it is much more durable and works far better than most
other frame fit or mini pumps.

A larger section tire will be less likely to get caught in
cracks or joints in the road, and is less likely to get
pinch flats. For most of my riding either commuting or day
riding I prefer 700 X 28 or 32C tires-I use the IRC Road Winner 2 most of the time. I've also had good luck with
the Avocet FasGrip Road 20 tire. The only downside for
me with the Avocet's is that they seem to be about twice
the price for similar performance (Avocet tires are made
by IRC). For loaded touring I prefer 700 X 35C tires.
There are other good tire manufacturers out there as well,
these are just the ones that I prefer. I don't use Kevlar
belted tires as I haven't found them to be substantially
more puncture resistant, and the belt adds to rolling
resistance. More info on rolling resistance can be found
at http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/rolres.html
The tire that best suits your needs will depend on the
road conditions (potholes, glass)and weight of rider and
gear-a heavier load requires a larger section tire.

Bill Putnam

   RE:RE:pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by Kevin K on 4/3/2002 at 11:45:36 PM
Hi and thank you one and all for the advice given. Kevin

   RE:RE:RE:pump, valve, and tyre questions posted by Joel on 4/4/2002 at 10:38:40 PM
I agree with the above posts regarding the frame pump. Didn't see anyone mention the CO2 pumps.

I'm a mountain biker and I've seen a lot of tubes changed. It seems to me that the CO2 pumps have malfunctioned about half the times I've seen them used. I doubt this is the fault of the pumps so much as the inexperienced or infrequent user but onece that CO2 cartridge is empty, that's it. A pump is much more reliable.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by: Robert on 4/1/2002 at 10:35:37 PM
I have picked up several bikes with stem mounted Suntour shifters. They seem to work fine for me. But if you look at most bikes that people build up , that are not setup for downtube shifters, they put Suntour bar end shifters.
Is it just because they are considered trick ? If you use the tops a lot stem shifters seem real handy to me.
Thanks


     Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by John E on 4/1/2002 at 11:10:18 PM
I strongly prefer barcons over stem shifters because:
1) If the intent is to keep both hands on the bars while shifting, stem shifters do not really accomplish this.
2) From my primary hand positions of the tops of the brake hoods and the inside curve of the drops, barcons are an easier, far more stable reach than stem shifters.
3) In the event of a front-end collision, protruding stem shifters could do some damage.
4) The only time one's hands should be on the tops of the bars is while climbing. At any speed over about 10mph/15kph, I want my hands on or very near the brake levers.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by Ray on 4/3/2002 at 8:02:21 PM
I'm going to get in trouble here again. To me stem shifters were a way for the cheapie bike companies to make bikes even cheaper by not having to have any brazeons. These ugly disfunctional attempts at making it easier to get at your shifter is really a laugh. I can't figure out for the life of me why if they are easier to get at did all companies make the levers large enough to go spear fishing with. The old Schwinn stem shifters were big enough bend and use as another set of handlebars. How many high end bikes or real racing bike have you seen with stem shifters, NONE. That should tell you something. I am really into the lightweight stuff right now and can tell you that I avoid them like the plague. I'll give you all a little scavenger hunt to go on. Try and find a set of Campy stem shifters on the web and post the site here for all to see. Have fun!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by Robert on 4/3/2002 at 9:51:14 PM
Come on Ray, don't old back. Let me really know what you think:)
My question was for informational purposes. I personally can't see adding to the cost of rebuilding / customizing by the amount that most people want for barcons. I.E.
Around $100.00 for bike, all parts, new paint tires ect..
The barcons I have seen are going for about $25.00 up most places used. Yes, the Schwinn stem shifters are large/ ugly . But the Suntour ones I have seen have levers no larger than most downtube shifter levers. I have never used barcons and thought I might be missing something. It appears that I am. Although reaching to a downtube shifter seems to have more possible problems than shifting a stem shifter. If I can locate a set of barcons for little $ then I will probably go that way. Otherwise I guess I will use my stem mounted Suntour boat oars. Thanks all for the feedback.

Robert

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by Ray on 4/4/2002 at 12:06:30 AM
As you can see I like to have fun here but really I do not like the stem shifters. I have never used bar cons but know people who swear by them. I know what you mean by cost but here is a sad story. I was at a bike swap in Mass last year and a guy had a bag with about 5 sets of bar cons in it and he wanted 3 bucks for the bag and I passed it up. Still feel the bruses where I kicked myself.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by Walter on 4/4/2002 at 2:46:06 AM
I too have never seen stem shifters on a bike that could be described as better than "OK." Barcons are nice but as you've found out that isn't exactly a secret. =/- $25 seems to be the going rate and the occasional NOS set is about $10 more.

Having said that SunTour made some stem shifters with their ratcheting action that I'm sure work fine. D/T shifters really aren't all that cumbersome, give them a try.

Ray, I don't usually salt wounds as I've missed a few opportunities myself but you missed one there.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Stem shifters not cool or ??????? posted by Walter on 4/4/2002 at 2:49:12 AM
Should be +/- $25.

Darn hift key. :)






MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by: Bryant on 4/1/2002 at 12:18:10 PM
I am fixing up a 1973 Schwinn Suburban as a commuter bike for my buddy. Besides the normal challenges found in a thrift store bicycle, I have come across a frozen headset. Right now I'm just adding Liquid Wrench to the threads from the top and waiting. Any ideas??


   RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by Tom Findley on 4/1/2002 at 1:16:00 PM
A Phantom I bought had a frozen headset. Buck Peacock ended up cutting it off with an air chisel. It is not worth spending time and effort on. Get new parts.

   RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by Ray on 4/1/2002 at 7:55:11 PM
B4 you resort to violence the liquid wrench is a good start. Usually a head set will come free if you use a proper head set wrench (a long one) and keep the front wheel on the bike. Place the bike on the floor stand in front of it and put the wheel between your knees while you are facing the bike seat. You now put the head set wrench on the bike and pull using your knees to resist the turning of the fork. Many people try to free a head set in the bike stand and this will just frustrate the hell out of you. If it still is stubborn then a few taps with a plastic head hammer right on top should free it up assuming you have already removed the stem. If it still gives you problems then yes I agree cut it free with a dremel cutter which will do less damage then the impact from a free wheeling chisel. Replacements can be found. Good luck.

   RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by Warren on 4/1/2002 at 9:29:46 PM
I just witnessed this discussion somewhere...one good solution was ammonia. Flip the bike upside down, pour it in and let it sit a couple of days. Haven't done it myself but...

   RE:RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/2/2002 at 1:13:12 AM
Ammonia is excellent for rust.Rusted parts. I hang with a master bicycle mechanic and he uses ammonia all the time.

   RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by Bryant on 4/2/2002 at 12:19:09 PM
Your right Ray. Trying to remove the headset on the stand is frustrating. I'll put the wheels back on and give it a shot. Ammonia treatment sounds intriguing. I'm not a chemist but I would be interested in just how that works. That will be my last shot before I visit violence upon the headset. Thanks all!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by chris on 4/3/2002 at 12:35:26 AM
I had three people tell me to throw this thing away, but I let it sit for a few days and handed it to a garage mechanic who stuck it in the vise and it poped out and he stood there looking at me like "No problem."

He waved his hand and it was no charge too. Let it sit after the ammonia treatment.

   RE:MISC:   Frozen Headset posted by Bryant on 4/3/2002 at 12:18:32 PM
It's soaking now. Will tell you how it turns out.






AGE / VALUE:   colour posted by: John E on 4/1/2002 at 3:05:33 AM
Two Bianchis of approximately the same age, condition, and caliber as mine recently sold on eBay. The red one (mine is brown) sold for $200, whereas the "politically correct" Celeste one went for twice as much.







AGE / VALUE:   Nice Motobecane posted by: Walter on 3/31/2002 at 1:17:29 PM
Pretty Motobecane. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815915725 While I was riding around on a Nomade that I modified with no-name alloy rims and SunTour barcons this was the real deal I lusted after. Reynolds, Nervex, Campy. Kind of surprised it hasn't picked up a bid yet. With the rear brake cable clips instead of braze-on guides this is earlier 70s than my Nomade which was vintage 77 or so.

All the usual disclaimers. (If it was mine I wouldn't sell it)