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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   UNivega LWQuestions posted by: Robert on 12/7/2003 at 3:31:20 AM
Where do the Univega bikes fall in the quality world? I bought a real nice one at a yard sale today. Suntour Cyclone derailleurs and d.tube shifters, Suntour hubs, triple butted tubing , stainless spokes and eyeletted 700 rims. Has real nice red paint . Decent pedals w/ t.clips.
All nice old school stuff, but where are the yin the quality lineup?

Thanks


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   UNivega LWQuestions posted by andym on 12/7/2003 at 4:02:28 AM
Like alot of bicycle companies,Univegas had some really nice models with great components and also lower end stuff that I would'nt care to own.I do own a couple of Univegas,a "Gran Premio" with Suntour cyclone components and a 1984 "Alpina Sport" mountain bike,very vintage,very goofy by todays standards.Both are nice,very well made bikes.
I'm not sure but I think the company was once called Italvega,importing decent Italian made bicycles.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   UNivega LWQuestions posted by JONathan on 12/7/2003 at 5:33:14 AM
Mine are all SunTour equipped, so I think they were the Miyata's branded for Lawee under the name; "Univega". They are all over the place..on the road. That tells you something. I see these beat up bikes with good tires and lube on the chain, but faded out paint. This tells me a lot. They are excellent values..at least the Japanese models, IMHO.
I have early '80's "Alpina Uno" with the alloy top-shifters. They were a big step up from the converted Excelsiors for MTB use that guys were riding in the early '80's. The "Viva sport" is a good one, has roadster bars and down-tube shifters (bossed). Good chro-mo frames. I've got a competition model, can't recall the model name, but it's very lightweight. I popped the SunTour "superb" shifters for another ride, but someday, I'd like to restore it.Most oftrn I see them and Fuji's more than any other vintages on the roads. Does that speak volumes?
I would fix it up and get it going. I can't speak for anything after the '80's, I think the name was bought. The "Italvega" looks very similar. I figure anythinmg Miyata makes has to be excellent...especially for the bucks.
JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   UNivega LWQuestions posted by Robert on 12/7/2003 at 8:39:55 PM
JONathan,

I am considering going to roadster type bars on this one because drop bars create too many hand wrist problems for me.
Do you happen to know what type of brake levers were used on these with roadster bars? Were the bars Raleigh Spoerts pattern or ???

Thanks

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   UNivega LWQuestions posted by JONathan on 12/8/2003 at 2:40:37 AM
I know what you mean. I use the drops with about 8 different grips (double that if you eliminate bilateral symmetry). For those roadster bars, I would put a set of "Lee Chi" MTB style brake levers or use a a good alloy straight lever for MTB's. It is getting harder to find loose levers that are in good shape used. The regular levers that have a small pivot pin have lateral slop...the handle wiggles and feels loose,even when the brakes are adjusted to correct tension. Maybe I need more experience in setting up brakes. The main thing is finding one that fits your grip comfortably. Dia-Compe made some beefed levers for their "MX" series that are still available.
Good luck. JONathan

   UNivega posted by Mark on 12/8/2003 at 9:36:36 AM
Ahhh Univega. I have been meaning to post my Univega story. Found a luged steel Univega MTB frame in an ally a few weeks ago. Set it up with all Suntour AC Pro parts. Sweet ride for being a MTB and having a pink color. Ahh Univega!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by: jack on 12/6/2003 at 9:03:48 AM
As I have previously said, due to increasing age and prefering more comfort, I've converted some of my vintage lwts to upright seating rather then selling or not riding my bikes. One change entails swapping bars and I have installed a couple of Nitto roadster bars ($25) which are ok.

Checking Rivendell and other web sites, I see where some are installing Nitto mustache bars with rave reviews. I would try these but would like some opinions from list members who may have tried these before plunking $60+.


     Mustache Bars posted by John E on 12/6/2003 at 3:31:27 PM
Have you checked sheldonbrown.com? Sheldon is big on mustache bars.

I still strongly prefer drops, because I need to be able to change hand positions periodically for comfort and to avoid wrist and hand problems. When riding my mountain bike, I had alot of problems with tingling and discomfort until I added standard outboard handlebar extensions.

   RE:  Mustache Bars posted by JONathan on 12/6/2003 at 6:31:33 PM
The extensions increased the comfort and control on my touring MTB. My latest ride ('76 Ral."Sprite" 10 sp.) has large-sized raised touring bars. The problem of bumping my knees on a tight turn is solved. They must have made small bars for a lot of bikes. My wife's "sports" has the small bars, even though the frame is 23" and I can't make a tight turn without cuffing a raised knee. I think a wide set, or MTB style with bar extensions is a good changeout, but, of course the individual rider must decide what is most comfortable. All I do is try different combinations until I get the "nod". I see some riders with the bars way forward from what I think is optimum (where front axle is even or slightly behind the straight part of the bars, when in the normal riding position). Maybe this dimension is more critical for me on the road-bikes where the crouched down aero position can test your back and hip flexibility. My favorite bars are the "bull moose" style. I have those on a couple of first gen. MTB's (Ral. "Elkhorn" and Univega "Alpina Uno"). They are incredibly comfortable. Again, try a few sets and decide which works best for you. My brother is running a Fuji road bike ("Pulsar") with a strange setup, but it turned out to work for him. I just shook my head and said; "Alright...dude, go with what works". The bars are short and straight across!
Good luck, save those disks, JONathan

   RE:RE:  Mustache Bars posted by JONathan on 12/6/2003 at 6:40:38 PM
Ooops! I meant the front axle is either blocked by the straight of the bars or is slightly in FRONT..repeat FRONT of the straight. If the stem or top-tube is too long, the axle will be visable "under" (behind) the straight. At least that's how it works for me. I'm not saying that's how it is supposed to be, just a gauge for myself. I have a long torso so I run with a 25" frame, even though a 23" is actually a better fit.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Mustache Bars? posted by jack on 12/6/2003 at 9:04:46 PM
John E, one of the main benefits of the mustache bar is the various hand positions available. The proponants tout 2 or 3 positions without resorting to clamp-ons. Supposedly the bars are meant to be wrapped w/tape and using bar-end shifters are the hot setup. I'll look at Sheldon's site to see if I can get a better price as that's all that's holding me up. If I have to get a stem and want to go with end shifters, not to mention brake levers, this could easily run $200!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Mustache Bars? posted by Warren on 12/7/2003 at 1:08:37 AM
Yes but standard drop road bars have 5 positions as long as you're flexible enough to bend...not that I wouldn't love a pair of the Nitto's. Variety is the spice...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by Fred on 12/7/2003 at 1:42:42 AM
I also have a number of bikes which I have converted to upright bars. The reason is simply that I cannot ride long with drop bars due to a physical limition. I always tag and keep the original bars. I too have been thinking of mustache bars for one or two of my favorites. One of my pet peeves is people who buy road bike and turn the bars around backwards in the stem so they can use the bar end section which gives them an upright position. I scringe to see them pushing on the brake levers which are pointing backward in a menacing direction. This arrangement results in very poor brake control and also the danger of getting skewered on the rear pointing levers in the event of an endo,(flying over the bars). I always advise people not to do this and even offer to do the conversion the right way with appropriate components. but to date no one has taken me up on the offer. Usually they don't want to spend money on a bike they got for a song at a flea market or garage sale. So lose your manhood for a few bucks. As a last resort I have even offered to rotate the bars around the stem axis and also around a vertical axis,(invert and revert), at no cost and to at least eliminate the possibilty of being skewered. No way, "I like them fine" is usually their response.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by T-Mar on 12/7/2003 at 4:40:38 AM
While I don't personally condone upturned, drop bars, I don't feel they are as dangerous for the casual rider as Jack states. Maybe the braking modulation isn't efficient in that position, but if the bars were upright they'd probably be using the safety levers, which are just as inefficient. Sure, they could skewer their manhood on the brake levers, but they're just as likely to do it on the stem shifters that are the standard equipment of most old lightweights. At least with the bars turned up, they are looking where they are going, which is something they would probably not be doing on properly positioned bars. After all, if you not comfortable, you will not be concentrating fully on the road and traffic. I'd say that this type of casual rider is probably less likely to have a crash with upturned bars, than the proper set-up. Ideally, you would hope they would convert to upright bars, but for these riders, comfortable, cheap transportation is the priority.

Regardless, this upturned bar postition has always fascinated me and I'm always tempted to try the set-up. After all, it was this exact set-up that inspired Graham Obree's radical "bars to the chest" position, which he used to establish the World Hour Record. We may laugh, but Graham was thinking outside the box (as he tends to do) and saw the aerodynamic benefits that everbody else overlooked.

While each individual bar style provides it's own advantges for particular situations, I tend to agree with John E. and Warren, that dropped bars are the best all round bar for road riding. Finding the right bar for your own particular needs is pure trial and error. Soliciting comments can help shorten the process, but its no guarrantee on what will work for you.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by Jonathan on 12/7/2003 at 6:02:31 AM
I find the drop-bars to be the most comfortable...if you get the right fit! The mustache bars look cool. The drop-bars allow for grip over the brake hoods. Good for stretching the fingers and fore-arms on the long flat rides. I wonder about all the vertical weight on the spine in those upright positions. Of course, if one has to go 90 degrees to grab the drop-bars, that is a problem. I especially like the maximum stabilty that you can get locking onto the drop-bars with wrists and forearms bracing. Has to some jolt to pop that hold.
I have set of hangers on a Peugeot mixte which is the most comfortable ride...for a short distance. The bars rise up 18 inches from the stem and are even with my eyes! I get some weird looks.
JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by Derek Coghill on 12/8/2003 at 12:14:44 AM
I still have my old cow-horn bars; these used to be standard fitment for a teenager's 5-speed racer. They're a bit bent but have sentimental value!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by Ken on 12/8/2003 at 7:04:42 PM
Peugeot had a nice mustache-style bar for their touring bikes, with good Weinmann alloy levers, and you could probably find a whole bike for the price of the Rivendell bars.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Mustache Bars? posted by Tim on 12/8/2003 at 8:13:20 PM
Checking through the Bridgestone mailing list archive for muostache bars, I seemed to get the idea that folks either love 'em or hate'em. One of the ideas is that they're supposed to have multiple positions, yet some maintain none of the positions are comfortable.

Aside from the Nitto bars, Van Dessel sells some flat moustache bars that seem to be aimed more at the NorthRoad type setup than the multiple position moustache.

I seem to recall that Sheldon Brown actually disliked moustache bars. He does seem to like Scott AT-3 bars, which I wouldn't mind trying if I could find some.

   RE:RE:  Mustache Bars posted by TimW on 12/9/2003 at 1:14:56 AM
When I was in Oaxaca, Mexico, last year, there were Benotto bikes all over the place (NOT particulary good bikes), many with moustache bars. I even saw inside some bike repair shops, and it looked like lots of the old bikes were being parted out. I regretted not tracking down a few sets of moustache bars to bring back, given how hard to find and expensive they are here.

Well, we've just booked a flight back to Oaxaca to take my Mom for a few weeks of leisure. I should have lots of time to find some bars, I just have to get them back in my suitcase. No way to get them through security as carry-on, I bet.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Mustache Bars? posted by Robert on 12/9/2003 at 1:44:06 AM
I think I have the very bars you are talking about on a mixte frame Peugeot that is in the garage. These are steel.
Have some really funky looking levers.






WANTED:   San Marco Roll's / '80's vintage posted by: dent on 12/6/2003 at 2:20:56 AM
I'm looking for a black model, this seat has a gold metal tag across the back of the seat with the word Roll's.
Is needed for a 1988 Paramount restoration, prefer "new" or like condition.


   RE:WANTED:   San Marco Roll's / '80's vintage posted by mc on 12/8/2003 at 1:47:34 PM
I have one. Email me for details.






AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, "Sprite" 1976, 10 speed posted by: JONathan on 12/4/2003 at 5:08:48 PM
They are out there. Yesterday, I picked up a "Sprite" (double triangle) for a song.
There was a 3 sp. "Dunelt" (double dt) for $45 US. I passed on it and picked up the Raleigh for $15. Why the difference?
I noticed the bike was completely falling apart, but not from miles put on. Stem was loose; headset was loose; chainring missing a bolt in the spider; front bearings loose; brake pads were completely out of whack and the list goes on.
They must have thought it was junk. Well, here's my take. A sticker says; "made in England; aaembled in USA" near the BB on the seat-tube. The bike has zero scratches, no wear on the components and the seat is original with NOS appearance.
Based on the picture from 1976 catalog at Retro-Raleigh, the yellow bike looks identical, except for color and this one is lacking fenders.
I gathered the bike up and after dinner, I got everything up and running right.
I found a 7x16 bolt in a loose parts box for the only part needed. Everything else was simple adjustment and fastening down properly. When Raleigh sent unassembled bikes to the uS, were they assembled by individual stores or were they marshalled at a specail assemble facility, put together by people who knew what they were doing, then sent out to the stores?
My guess is the former. Here's a guy who gets caught up in the bike-boom, buys a good bike hoping to experience the joys of riding...maybe fostering the glimmer of a healthy commute. Well, the components start falling off or getting do sloppy that he gives up. The bike sits in the garage for 25 years and ends up at a thrift mart. I bet he never bought another bike, too.
Just speculation, but a not too unreasonable scenario. Anyway, he's happy not having to trip on it, the store is happy getting a "piece of junk" sold and I'm happy getting a practically new machine that justr needed TLC.
The interesting feature of this bike are the wheels. Raleigh "pattern rims" with SA hubs. The rear has a cylindrical extension on the non-drive side that looks about as deep as the freehweel. Could this be to avoid dishing the wheel? Or is it some kind of "flip-flop" wheel? Or, was it SA's attempt to fit up a 10 sp. axle?
JONathan


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by Derek Coghill on 12/5/2003 at 12:20:16 AM
I think that the hubs ensure a symmetrical spoke pattern. Just as an aside, Dunelt also made motorcycles in the 1920's/30's. Their bicycles may have been subsumed into Raleigh post-WW2 (the motorbikes never re-emerged but possibly became part of BSA). The bikes may have been sent out as "CKD" (completely knocked down); that is to say, a kit of parts. In which case it's up to the shop to assemble them correctly.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by Joe on 12/5/2003 at 7:43:04 AM
Keep an eye on that rear hub, I've seen quite few with the flanges loose on the center portion of the hub, they were just kind of press fitted somehow. The rear wheel still has a slight dish to it as well, but not as much as with a standard hub.
Raleigh bikes back in the 70's were shipped to the dealers pretty much assembled, with only the seat and handlebars removed. Around the mid 80's they started to ship bikes with the front wheel off to save on shipping.
I would probably suppose the bike you found was either peiced together or maybe had been apart for travel purposes?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by Tim on 12/5/2003 at 8:12:43 AM
What a find and what a great winter project. I would knock down every component set and repack every bearing. 25 years is a long time for grease and it is probably hard as a rock. Best regards.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by JONathan on 12/5/2003 at 5:21:50 PM
Thanks. I'm on it. The hub (rear) seems OK, but I'll keep a close watch. The rims are marked; "silverseal", heavy chrome jobs. Braking is marginal by my standards for calipers. At least nothing was bent. The smaller (40T) chainring was slightly skewed in planar aspect. The circumference was true. That was the only repair required, which was easy to do with the big vise, with wood inserts to save the chrome and tooth bevels.
Being steel helps a guy out. I would hesitate to cold-bend an alloy ring. To keep from going bananas working those cotter pins, I marked the end of the spindle and crankarm for lining up during reassembly. Takes a lot of thinking out of the operation. The vise with 14mm socket worked great in removing the pins. Right now, it's ready to go. The tires are 100psi (max) touring type, but I have them at 70-80 psi...the rims are not "hooked bead" and based on what I've learned on this site about pressure and flush rims, that's about tops. I think 70psi was the max. recommended.
The tires are 32-630 and not original as they are made in Taiwan. The rack is a Schwinn and there is a collapsable basket on the side. The catalog pic. has the Scwinn rack, I think. I may put a set of fenders on this weekend. These are very comfortable riding bikes. The SAB's are interesting, but I prefer the regular brake levers. Who needs "self-asjusting brakes"?
The paint has zero scratches. Derailers are Huret. Pedals are non-serviceable rubber platforms...they were cutting costs. The cranks are Raleigh. No rust anywhere on this bike. I was impressed.
I wonder if the fenders were never put on the bike as there is no signs of clamp abrasion on the eyes. Maybe the store sold it without fenders.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by Dick in FL on 12/6/2003 at 2:37:49 AM
I also picked up an identical Sprite so, of course, I am keenly interested in following your progress. (BTW: Mine is root beer colored.) You mentioned chromed wheels in this post (that is correct), but you referred to "Raleigh pattern wheels" in your original post. The "Raleigh pattern" (patent?) wheels are 26"; those on the Sprite are, as you report, 27". I'm confused by the reference to a "Schwinn" luggage rack. Sprites came standard with a Swiss made Pletscher rack, same as the Raleigh Twenty. This is a downgrade from the magnificent Prestube rack found on the Superbes. You didn't mention the now highly prized Raleigh red "R" nuts found on the axle ends, seatpost clamp, and cotter pins. You could recover your investment on these alone. Also, I am jealous of the folding pannier basket. If its a Wald, it retails new for $18. I've only once run across one of these in a thrift store.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by JONathan on 12/6/2003 at 3:54:03 AM
The rims have the name; "Silverseal" stamped into the back. I assumed "Raleigh patterned" rims without knowing really what they look like. The pattern looks like segmented striations all around the edges. They stop very well for steel, but I didn't/ couldn't go very fast. The axle nuts have the "R" over a red background. The cotter pins have been replaced. I noticed that the lube was pretty good inside the BB and one pin had a bent threaded end. Whoever set this up, was not the consumate bike mechanic, or even a common-sense novice.
One brake pad was almost jamming the spokes! The whole brake assembly on the front was loose at the anchor bolt, too. I think it was an accident waiting to happen the way it was set up. I love the ride. Shifying is bit slugglish, but very solid. The rack looks superficially like the one I saw a catalog. The upturned, rather than downturned (Fletscher?) bracket had me thinking it was aSchwinn. The rack is very nice for the "rat-trap" type. The folding basket works very well. I brought home a bunch of groceries in it. This bike reminds me of my wife's exercycle which I occasionally ride when it needs tuning. It is heavy, but comfortable. I actually broke a sweat on the Raleigh, but it was like a good workout.
It rolls forever. The front wheel spins a long time on the stand. The plodding motion on the cranks is fine if not in a big hurry. It just moves along. A friend would like the bike, but I may just keep this one for riding. I've been looking for a double-traingle "Sports", and have come up short. This one is a lot like the "Sports", only with 10 speeds. The color is definitely a red, like a wine color, I'm told by "experts". I just call it red. I have the feeling that I'll be back on my "Traveler" in a week...but this bike has been fun, so far.
Good luck with yours. Thanks for the info about those axle nuts. I may change them out for generics. I ground the 7x16 bolt head down to match the other two on the chainring. A Nervar bolt was too short, but the spacer was identical.
Rides! JONathan
BTW, these frames are pretty tough looking...like heavy service unit.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh, posted by Joe on 12/7/2003 at 6:51:23 AM
I have a couple of Sprites myself, one is a late 60's model and the other is probably mid-70's. BOth are larger frames but have many small differences. The earlier model is beer bottle brown and has rounded style fenders, it has a Raleigh 'half step' crankset (46-49t), nearly straight style touring bars (picture a set of North Road style bars with the ends only curving back slightly), no rear rack, Huret Allvit derailleurs, Brooks mattress saddle, and gray Raleigh grips. This bike originally had Dunlop 32/40 spoke rims, but the rear hub flanges were separated on this bike and the rims had some peeling chrome, so I replaced them with a set of 36 hole Rigida serated side rims and a set of Normandy hubs. I may swap the Rigidas' out for a set of alloy Weinmann rims down the road. I used the Rigida set since I was not able to find a set of 32/40 hole rims or a good rear 40 hole Raleigh hub.
The later model has the self adjusting brake levers, flat top fenders, Pletscher rear rack, it's rims are like the ones Jonathan described, with the linear serrated sides. I did have to replace the rear hub for the same problem though, the flanges separated from the center part of the hub. Since this one was a 36/36 spoke bike, I was able to use a 73 mm flange Sturmey Archer high flange hub on this one.
Both are nice riding bikes for short trips, but I had always considered these in need of some serious dieting, the stem and bars are steel, the wheels are steel, as are items like fenders, seat post, and calipers. I am considering building one of these up using all alloy components and a nice set of Michelin tires? I also considered taking a set of thumb shifters from a mountain bike to realy improve the package? Any ideas here?
The Raleigh Sprite is really just a Record with fenders and a handlebar change, they don't seam to be very colectable, so I would feel bad about making any changes.
I have a third Sprite but it's pretty rough, only the frame and fork are nice, I was thinking about a Sturmey Archer 3 spped or Nexus 7 speed conversion?








AGE / VALUE:   Schwinns(?) with Campy-Style Dropouts posted by: Pierre on 12/4/2003 at 1:02:36 PM
I've seen a few road bike frames on eBay that appear to have received a questionable home-paint-job somewhere along the way. And the sellers were calling them Schwinns -- no reason to believe a seller would try to pass off something else as a Schwinn -- but the frames have Campy-style dropouts with rear derailleur hangers.

A couple were being touted as Paramounts -- or *possible* Paramounts, though the lug-work was not nearly what I've seen on Paramounts -- and others were simply being sold as old repainted Schwinns. Most had lug-work that looked like a typical Schwinn -- even had the integral cable guides on the bottom bracket -- but they had the higher-end dropouts.

I'm not trying to find a list of things to look for on a Paramount, but instead, I'm wondering what other Schwinns had the Campy-style dropouts. I'm guessing there were a few higher-end frames built by Schwinn, and I was wondering if anyone could suggest a few models that might fit this description.

Pierre


    Schwinns with Campy-Style Dropouts posted by John E on 12/4/2003 at 3:00:57 PM
Some of our Schwinn experts will have to help me out here, but Schwinn did make some "almost-Paramount" road bikes in Waterloo WI and in Greenville MS. You may have been seeing some of these.

   RE: Schwinns with Campy-Style Dropouts posted by Mo on 12/6/2003 at 12:28:42 AM
I have a 1967 Schwinn Super Sport and a 1971 Sports Tourer - both have the forged "Huret" droputs (both fillet brazed frames from the Schwinn Paramount/handbuild shop) - much more substantial than the later sameframe cheap stamped out metal ones.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bridgestone RB-1? posted by: jack on 12/4/2003 at 2:24:21 AM
Ran across a Bridgestone which had a RB-1 decal on the lugged, Made-in-Japan frame. Trouble is this bike has cantilever brakes fore and aft as well as a ton of braze-ons for racks, etc. I thought the RB-1 was a road-race model, did they change into touring? Could it be a RB-T with a damaged decal that appears to read RB-1? Any RB-1 buffs out there?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bridgestone RB-1? posted by Gralyn on 12/4/2003 at 3:43:04 AM
I have an RB-1. It's a pure racing model. No cantilever brakes, no braze-ons for racks, etc. Tight racing geometry, Quad-butted frame, 22lbs total. Maybe there was an RB-T....but I'm only familiar with the RB-1 - and it's pure racing!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bridgestone RB-1? posted by T-Mar on 12/4/2003 at 4:16:07 AM
Yes, Bridgestone made an RB-T model in the early 90's that matches your description. It should have those nice Suntour bar end shifters too!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bridgestone RB-1? posted by jack on 12/4/2003 at 5:32:52 AM
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to check it again tomorrow and look closer. I know the hi-end are great bikes but the damn size is too small for me (again!). I'll buy it anyway if I can get it for 50 bucks, even though its missing wheels.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bridgestone RB-1? posted by T-Mar on 12/4/2003 at 1:37:51 PM
If it helps with your decision, MSR on a 1991 RBT was $537 US, versus $780 for an RB-1. It uses a lower grade Ishiwata CrMo tubing and was more the equivalent to an RB-3. Also, the spec sheet I have does not show a hyphen between the RB & T. I don't know if this is a typo, or not.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bridgestone RB-1? posted by JONathan on 12/4/2003 at 4:53:09 PM
I believe the "T" means "touring" model design. Probably the intent was for an all-around bike.
Good gearing and braking for hills, but a bit smarter handling to double as road-bike. The more robust construction would be apparent and I believe the weight was 25#. Not bad!
All the braze-ons would point in the direction of a touring bike, too. I would have gotten that one if the frame was clean...not even a second thought. Of course, the poor match for you would be a factor. At least it's reasonable to ride a smaller frame.
I have been wondering about the steeper seat-tubes, which supposedly ease the strain on the back while going aero. Was that a Bridgestone or Rivendell innovation? I can think of problems with crank leverages and derailers due to the tighter rear triangle.
One thing is certain to me, the Bridgestones are superbly crafted...that alone is why I look for them. I have not seen any except on the road. Nice find.
JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bridgestone RB-1? posted by JONathan on 12/4/2003 at 5:06:12 PM
Why am I thinking; "XO-1"? Could be that it was placed on the market as something in between.
Just wondering. I know there bridegestone experts somewhere. I have three. The "Spica" (they were named after celestial entities) is a road bike...not like the RB-1's, but still pretty decent.
The "Regulus" is a touring bike, or commuter. Very comfortable. I had fixed it up for a friend who later decxided that they wanted a "new" bike. So instead of finding it a nice home, it sits with the grease drying out.
23" frame, so I don't use ride it. The third is a "Carmel", which is a five speed "city bike" type. Nobody wants to ride it, either. Can't imagine that a Moto "nobly" would have higher status, but who am I?
Again, I think the price was so reasonable that the quality (which is high) must have been in question. Too bad, because they are tremendous values.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bridgestone RB-1? posted by jack on 12/5/2003 at 3:12:14 AM
The frame decals say RB-T (with dash). Its missing the bar-ends, as a matter of fact, the only thing original are the crank, brakes and derailers. It's a 22" and I prefer 23/24 but I couldn't pass it up for $20. The tubing sticker says Ishiwata, triple-butted, EXT, Croston.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bridgestone RB-1? posted by JONathan on 12/5/2003 at 4:21:40 AM
Real nice. Done good.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good Find Yesterday..........NOT!!!!!!! posted by: Gralyn on 12/3/2003 at 12:54:43 PM
I made a stop at a thrift store yesterday evening. Just outside the door, there were a few bikes....an old ladies 3-speed, a kids bike, and a Peugeot, mens model. There were also a few other items outside - all tagged. The ladies 3-speed and the kids bike had price tags....but the Peugeot didn't have a price tag. I looked over the bike and couldn't find a price. This is not unusual. My Lambert Viscount was parked among the bikes - and didn't have a price on it - so I asked them for the price - they made a price and I bought it. So, I thought I would take it to the register and ask for the price. Of course, if it was what I would consider too much - I wouldn't get it - but if it was reasonable - I would. I rolled it into the store and got in line at the register. As I wait - I'm looking over the bike: It has alloy wheels, components, etc...pretty decent bike. It looks like all it needs is a good cleaning. The finish seems to be pretty good. As I move closer toward the register......

An hispanic guy approaches - waving his arms!!! Pointing at the bike...then pointing to himself....and in some broken english....I know he is saying that the bike belongs to him! I apologized and passed the bike to him. We both thought it was pretty funny. I'm sure he realized how it happened....and I realized how it happened. (he found a different parking place for it after that incident)

I'm just glad I didn't get up to the register - and they sold me the bike! That would have been terrible!

I'll bet he won't park his bike among the "for sale" bikes again! (I've seen people park their bikes outside the store before....and usually it's obvious that it's someone's ride....and I've never seen one parked among the "for sale" bikes....I've parked mine outside the store.....but my helmet was hanging from the brake lever, and it had tool kits strapped to it, and it wasn't parked where they normally put bike for sale)


     Good Find Yesterday..........NOT!!!!!!! posted by John E on 12/3/2003 at 3:12:58 PM
I have had similar experiences and near-experiences at various yard sales, particularly when I ride my Schwinn mountain bike, with its "steal me" red-white-and-blue finish.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Good Find Yesterday..........NOT!!!!!!! posted by Rob on 12/3/2003 at 6:21:31 PM
That nearly happened to me last year...in a thrift, too. I was looking over this quite decent-looking bike that was sitting near the check out... A security guard ...not too politely either...informed me it belonged to someone. A bit embarassing, but IMHO the general presumption most of us would make is if it's on display in a store, it's for sale. But, I always lock up my rides even if they're out of sight for only a few minutes...I read recently that the Vancouver area is second only to Miami in terms of theft rates in N.A....I can easily believe that!!! ...of course, they're not really after old road bikes, but... :) Several years ago I had a three-week old MTB...Kuwahara...if forget the model..., double suspension, a real nice bike...stolen right out of the basement of my house...they kicked in the supposedly secure basement door...I had the feeling it was more than a merely opportunistic theft...






AGE / VALUE:   Steel Campy Cranks? posted by: jack on 12/3/2003 at 8:33:32 AM
Local shop has old Lygie road with Campy crank that looks like steel arm and spider. Can someone confirm that Campy made steel cotterless cranks back in 50's or 60's? If so, are they worth more or less than early record w/pedal boss?


    Steel Campy Cranks? posted by John E on 12/3/2003 at 3:17:48 PM
Are these cottered or cotterless? Yes, Campag. did make steel cranks before they introduced the familiar aluminum Records in 1958, originally with a 151mm BCD. Square-shank cotterless (as opposed to cottered) steel cranks are relatively rare, but I did own one set of Nervars which used the same 5-bolt 128mm BCD as the more familiar aluminum Nervar Star.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Steel Campy Cranks? posted by jack on 12/4/2003 at 2:03:24 AM
Thanks for the reply John. The cranks are cotterless and the arms (if that what you mean by "shanks") are indeed almost square.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Steel Campy Cranks? posted by Steven on 12/4/2003 at 5:05:30 AM
I'm sorry to contradict John, but Campagnolo most definitely did not make a steel crank before the alloy cotterless cranks in the late 50's. They did however make a cotterless steel crank called 'Sport' model in the 70's. It was their entry-level crank and I doubt that they have any particular collector value

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel Campy Cranks? posted by steve on 12/4/2003 at 4:56:15 PM
Value-wise, these "Sport" steel cranks occasionally show up on eBay, going for up to $50. The market probably comprises restorers of the mid-level bikes that used these cranks as OE, or else Campy collectors looking to have one of everything.
Use-wise, the alloy chainrings (a 51/52-tooth outer with a rivet-fastened 42 inner) don't offer many gearing options. The steel crank arms, however, are gracefully slender. The BCD is very close to that of the 3-pin TA, and I fitted a TA ring to one of these cranksets to produce a very nice club-type bike. (You need to sand out the inside of the TA ring to fit on the slightly larger diameter of the Campy mounting flanges; and then ream the bolt holes a little eccentric (or better yet, drill new holes on the blank chainring webs) to fit the slightly smaller Campy BCD. It turns out well.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel Campy Cranks? posted by Walter on 12/5/2003 at 5:03:32 PM
I don't know where they were in Campy's lineup or chronology but I've seen steel cotterless Campy cranks. They were on a really nice Falcon in tha sky blue the marque was known for. I remember the bike from my college days in the mid80s and it was probably an early 70s late 60s bike.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Steel Campy Cranks? posted by jack on 12/6/2003 at 2:13:22 AM
My mistake, the crank is aluminum. The slender arms are not much bigger than English steel. No raised area at pedal hole.






AGE / VALUE:   Campy Chain rings posted by: Smitty on 12/3/2003 at 5:25:23 AM
How do you tell the Campy 5 pin Gran sport chain ring from nuovo record chain ring (is there a c inside a diamond on NR)
Thanks Smitty







MISC:   Damaged BB threads redux... posted by: Warren on 12/2/2003 at 11:56:05 PM
Here's one of the Mavic Bottom brackets as discussed earlier...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=56195&item=3641825302

As T-Mar noted, you will need a good shop to chamfer two small bevels in the outside of the BB shell to allow the sealed cartridge to seat properly. A good wrench/buddy of mine said he can do it with a handfile but I'd rather he not play cowboy on my nice frames. Also be aware it is a fairly narrow axle width, limiting your choice of cranksets.


   RE:MISC: Damaged BB threads redux... posted by Warren on 12/3/2003 at 12:08:52 AM
ooops...bevels are inside the edges of the shell

   RE:MISC:   Damaged BB threads redux... posted by T-Mar on 12/3/2003 at 12:27:40 AM
I definitely wouldn't try that job with a handfile! I believe one of the purposes of the bevels is to properly align the bottom bracket cartridge.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Damaged BB threads redux... posted by JONathan on 12/3/2003 at 3:58:51 AM
Slick! The unit is new, too. That approach is resolves the problem, rather than solves the problem. You just fit that whole thing inside and fasten down.
For me, I would use a grinding wheel that has a tapered bevel that would self-center as you went along...gently, gently, easy does it. Whoever thought of that deserves a medal, IMHO.
I guess the ultimate "fix" is to take it easy on removing and installing the cups. I might go so far as to fool around with the drillpress.
Thanks, Warren.

   RE:MISC:   Damaged BB threads redux... posted by Corey on 12/3/2003 at 4:01:04 AM
Mavic made the tool for the chamfering. At Revolutions Cycling we had a Raleigh with a dented (from new was the story) bottom bracket shell that negated reusing a normal b/b. So in went a new Mavic b/b. Could a high end shop somewhere have that tool? (We had to borrow the one we used.)

Corey

   RE:MISC:   Damaged BB threads redux... posted by T-Mar on 12/3/2003 at 4:49:41 AM
JONathan, you would want to grind very slowly, to control the depth of the chamfer. If you look closely at the lockrings, you'll notice that the bevel gives way to a normal flat surface at about half distance to the outer diameter. This means that if you cut/grind the bevel/chamfer too deep, the lockring bevels will not contact the shell bevel and the cartridge will not align itself properly. Of course, this all assumes that it is a standard taper angle. If MAVIC was smart, like Shimano, they'd make the chamfer non-standard, so that you could only produce it using their tool.

MAVIC made the tool for a good reason. I would not buy one of these units unless I sure that I could obtain the tool or knew someone who had one to prepare the bottom bracket shell. Without the tool, you'd be paying big bucks to a machine shop to do this job properly.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Damaged BB threads redux... posted by JONathan on 12/3/2003 at 6:31:04 AM
Thanks, Tom. You have a convincing argument. It appears seating the flanges is not as trivial as I thought.
If the bevel doesn't cover the whole shoulder of the ring and if both are not parallel, the cylinder could work loose...or tear up the BB.
I wonder if it would easier to replace the BB in the frame.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by: Mike on 12/2/2003 at 4:06:45 PM
I have a couple of 70s vintage lightweights and have finally run out of my supply of tubular tires. What I want to know is - what suitable replacements are available that have tan side walls and black tread and will fit my 70s 27" (ISO 630mm) wheels?
Thanks,
Mike.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: WHAT TUBULARS? posted by Warren on 12/2/2003 at 7:05:52 PM
I had no idea there was such a thing as 27" tubulars...Vittoria makes adequate OK tan and black tubular but they are 700c size.

    WHAT TUBULARS? posted by John E on 12/2/2003 at 8:32:43 PM
Yes, tubulars ("sewups") have always been made in the 700C/622mm size, never 27"/630mm. Are you certain you have 27" rims, and are you certain you have tubulars and not wire-ons/clinchers?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by Rob on 12/2/2003 at 10:27:40 PM
I'm fairly new to tubulars, but a couple of weeks ago I bought a pair, Gommitalia, 700 x 23, just for casual use... Anyway I'm sure I saw a size other than 622...and, to avoid any confusion, I decided at the time to make the attendant would know the exact rim they were for...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by T-Mar on 12/3/2003 at 12:00:05 AM
I've never heard of ISO 630mm equivalent tubulars either! However, as Rob mentions, tubulars are available in other sizes than the common 700C (ISO 622mm equivalent bead dia.) 26"/650B (ISO 584mm equiv.) are common on triathlon bikes and are probably what Rob saw. They are avilable from a number of manufacturers. 24" (ISO 521mm equiv.) were used on the front wheels of some old style, trial trial "funny" bikes. I've also seen them on ONE junior racing bike, which also happened to have a custom Reynolds 531DB frame and Camapgnolo NR components - lucky kid! I believe Gommitalia still produces them. There are also 22" (ISO 470mm equiv.), 20" (ISO 419mm equiv.) and 18" (ISO 369mm equiv.). These are much harder to find. The 18" are used on the Moultons, in case you are wondering.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by Kevin K on 12/3/2003 at 12:03:19 AM
Hi all. Well I had a set of 27" sew ups. 27x1, or 1 1/8 I don't remember. I tried to sell them on ebay. Twice. No takers. I gave them away at the Ann Arbor swap meet 2 years back. I bought them at Memory Lane about 4 years back for $10.They were really nice and yes they were 27". Kevin

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by Corey on 12/3/2003 at 4:11:34 AM
Hi Kevin,

Where those tires a "closed tube" or a "u shape" in cross section? Did they have to be glued onto the rim?

Corey

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by Kevin K on 12/3/2003 at 1:27:54 PM
Hi Corey. These tires looked like every other sew up I've seen. Yes, they had a be glued on. Kevin

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   WHAT TUBULARS? posted by Rob on 12/3/2003 at 6:44:47 PM
Hopefully I'm not wading in over my head here, but...I think we might be talking about the same thing, ie the usual issue with nominal wheel and tire sizes. Here's a site I found that seems to suggest that the 27 x 1 is the same thing as a 700 x 22:

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/tubulars.htm

Also another interesting site, in French, with a wide range of tires, etc. :

http://www.velostore.com/cgi-local/swcart.pl/page=route-pneu-g4.html/SID=_MYSID_






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Oxidized Aluminum Rims posted by: Gralyn on 12/2/2003 at 3:02:50 PM
There were posts a few weeks ago regarding cleaning aluminum rims. I had bought a 25" (too big for me) Schwinn - mainly for the alloy wheels. But, it turned out - the rims were oxidized too badly - and I couldn't get them cleaned with Mothers Aluminum Polish (what I normally clean the aluminum alloy parts with). I ended up selling the frame on e-bay. I think someone had suggested using brasso....well, I thought I had some - and thought I would try it...but I couldn't find any....but...I did find a bottle of tarn-x. I thought I would give that a try. I tried it....and it cleaned the oxidation....then, I hit it with the Mothers - and they cleaned up nicely!

I have a set of Alesa's that are oxidized - and look like crap...on my Tunturi. I'm going to try that on those rims and see how it goes.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Oxidized Aluminum Rims posted by Fred on 12/2/2003 at 6:06:18 PM
Gralyn:

Were the AL rims you cleaned up anodized or untreated? Anodize in my experience, does not oxidize as long as it is intact. It will however become cloudy. Untreated AL does oxidize which results in pits. I have a bike with clear anodize on the rims which looks cloudy. Ordinary polish such as Simichrome was not very effective. I will try your solution and see how it goes. As for Brasso,I find it to be very effective when used on chrome with xxxx steel wool.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Oxidized Aluminum Rims posted by JONathan on 12/2/2003 at 6:24:28 PM
Brasso? I don't know. After I read the labels on some of this stuff, I stick it back on the shelf and spend the money on a burger...to get energy for the task ahead.
I just use #400 wet/dry black sandpaper, plain water and a lot of exercise. The dull, polished look is what I strive for in the finish. The oxide will film up and unless the rim has some exotic coating on it, everything works out great.
The trick is to keep flushing the paper with water to keep from clogging up. This grit is so fine that after a few swipes, it'll load up. If the corrosion is deep, I may use a #300, but unless the rim is a beefy model (like Araya), I save my energy for another one.
There is a bit of technique, here, that is subtle, but once you get the jamg of it, the results are impressive.
JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Oxidized Aluminum Rims posted by JONathan on 12/2/2003 at 6:29:17 PM
I meant; "hang", not "jamg"! Lousy keyboard, again!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Oxidized Aluminum Rims posted by T-Mar on 12/3/2003 at 12:20:57 AM
The aluminum warning on the Brasso containers is relatively new. It's not on my old can. However, I phoned up the company to try to get the reason behind the warning. Apparently, the abrasives in the Brasso MAY scratch the aluminum. There are NO PERSONAL HEALTH OR SAFETY ISSUES. So, proceed just like any other chemical or abrasive. First, try it in a small inconspicuous spot. If you like the results, then go hog wild!

Personally, I've used the product for over thirty years and don't notice any scratching, unless I use 10X magnification. It's takes a fair amount of time and elbow grease, depending on the oxidation build-up. There's probably something newer and better out there, but I'll wait and give them a try, after I've emptied my current can of Brasso.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Le Tour posted by: Rob on 12/2/2003 at 1:16:16 AM
I posted a few weeks back about a 1976 Schwinn Le Tour frame I had salvaged from a recycle pile... Well, I gave it its inaugural ride this weekend for about an hour...waiting for a dry weekend day. I have the bike set up with a SunTour V-GT rear der., an SL front der., Dia Compe side pulls; 27 x 1 1/4 Araya alloy rims, Sugino Maxy crankset, SunTour Perfect?? freewheel, original stem and replacement randonneur bars (original bars were somewhat bent)...also put on new black cork tape and a new set of gum Dia Compe brake hoods...not all exactly original spec., but a bit of an improvement...

Well, I really like this bike...nice solid feel, ran straight, comfortable....I think it'll be part of the herd for quite awhile!!!


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Le Tour posted by JONathan on 12/2/2003 at 3:44:25 AM
My '77 Le Tour II was my first real teardown..one that was fixed up out of interest rather than necessity.
I guess it marked my entry into collecting vintage LW's. This was about two years ago. I thought it was the coolest bike after it was finished. The steel handlebars were bent, too.
They make for real nice riding, pretty sporty, but robust enough for touring. Greta all-arounder. Compared to my '77 "varsity", the Le Tour II represents the direction lightweights were taking.
The alloy wheels are a step up from the steelies. Mine has all original, including the steel rims, and it still rides very well.
Good rides, JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by Pierre on 12/2/2003 at 10:56:13 AM
I have a 79 Schwinn Le Tour III, and it's my current favorite when it comes to comfortable cruising. I bought mine for a song, and I decided to trick-it-out a little with some aero brake levers, a 7-speed freewheel -- just sprung the rear a little, rather than spread it -- and slapped on a newer rear derailleur.

http://groups.msn.com/BicyclingForumPicPost/pierredekatspics.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=5056

http://groups.msn.com/BicyclingForumPicPost/pierredekatspics.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=5055

I always set aside the original parts for the next guy, but I really wanted to have aero brakes so they'd be familiar and I wouldn't have to fumble for them. I love those randonneur bars on mine, and I wouldn't mind putting some on a couple of my other bikes.

It's just hard to beat an old Schwinn.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by Gralyn on 12/2/2003 at 3:00:26 PM
You know, in all my bike searching and browsing - I have yet to spot a LeTour at a thrift store, or garage sale, etc. I've seen World, World Sport, Traveler, Continental, Superior, Sport-a-bout.....but no LeTour.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by JONathan on 12/2/2003 at 6:03:25 PM
Interesting. My friend from the midwest told me that everyone wanted to get a Le Tour in the '70's. Judging by the somewhat high price for it's day the buyers may have been more into cycling who purchased one.
I have seen a few on the road, too. They are excellent riding, with a tremendous versatility in design. I have even conjured up a fixed-gear conversion for my LT-II ('77). Whatever reasons for me, I decided to buy this one as a weekend project.
I really didn't need another bike and hadn't thought of collecting bikes. The results were impressive, not so much to my credit, but to the credit of the builder (Panasonic, I'm thinking). After that restoration, I decided that bikes were a great
hobby. I have it all original, including the bent steel handlebars, which work OK; the bend is very slight and it is steel! I really have little reason to need a better bike, but that hasn't swayed me from the hunt. I spemd more time arguing with myself over which bike to ride
for a spin than is spent riding! Oh, and they all have to be in tip-top shape, too. Now, I just have to give that LT-II a road-test at dusk...it is "pearlescent orange"!
Cheers, JONathan
BTW, I like that idea of keeping the original parts marked for exact restoration, later.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Le Tour posted by Mark C. on 12/2/2003 at 6:44:18 PM
It's fun to hear that I'm not alone in finding the Schwinn Le Tour bikes a great ride. I have an 84 model and it is my favorite road bike to ride out of my growing stable. I did find the geometry had me hunched over a little too much with the seat adjusted for proper height leading me to believe that the frame is probably one size too small. That's the only drawback to VLW is that you can't be too choosey about size when there is only one bike! I found that the addition of a flat mountain bike bar made it much more comfortable to ride. The only other problem was that the rims each had a nasty flat spot that even with the help of all the oldroads crew I haven't been able to get quite round again. That must have been some hit the previous owner took. I also keep all the original parts bagged and tagged in case I ever want to restore it. Enjoy your Le tour Rob!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Le Tour posted by kjell on 12/2/2003 at 7:43:44 PM
I have noticed from pictures that most early Le Tour bikes have half chromed forks. On my Le Tour they are fully painted. The color is aluminum grey and it has Sugino crank and Altus derailleurs. It also came with a black-painted Schwinn luggage rack. What year could it bee?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Le Tour posted by Rob on 12/2/2003 at 8:03:51 PM
I saw a Traveler (5-speed, steel crank...is that possible?) at a consignment shop. The bike is a brown color, and actually looked kind of sad and beat...they were asking way too high a price(IMHO)...about $125+CDN ($95+US).

Rebuilding my Le Tour gave me a few surprises. I hadn't encountered .833 stems before... When I first picked up the frame, it didn't have the stem or bars, and I had assumed I would be able to fit a 22.2 stem...not so fast, pal, it's not going to be that easy!!! Anyway, I got the idea maybe the stem would still be lying around the second hand bike shop where I got the frame....to make a long story short, I eventually found (it took a couple trips actually) the original stem, the original randonneur alloy bars, but they were damanged, and the original crankset, with a broken spindle shaft still attached, chain ring side...no problem getting that out)...The stem and bars were in their "free" box. As to the crankset, the left side cost me $5CDN and the chain ring side was actually in their garbage can...$0!!!

I think being a good "scrounger" makes this hobby fun!!!

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by Pierre on 12/3/2003 at 2:04:21 AM
Here's a nice one set up for touring on eBay -- currently nicely priced at $24:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3642741639&category=7298

This one could be a stunt-double for mine, or vice versa:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3642038342&category=7298

And here's one for the more petite rider:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3642358303&category=7298

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by Kevin K on 12/3/2003 at 1:24:29 PM
Hi all. The LeTour is an interesting piece of Schwinn history. The LeTour was first built in Japan by Panasonic from 1974-1978. Production was then moved to Chicago for the LeTour IV. I picked up an Oct. 1978 issue of the Schwinn Reporter telling about the move and how proud was Schwinn was to be bringing this bike / production to the USA. It also told of a unigue brazing process unlike most builders used. In the 80's production was moved to Greenville, Miss. The LeTour was produced from 1974 through I believe 2000 is the last I see it offered. Lots of changes along the way, from steel wheels and heavy tubing to a slick, modern road bike. I've owned at least 8 LeTours but have kept only 3. A 1977 LeTour II in Scarlet I bought as a frame only, a 1979 I purchased from a friend in mint condition to a 1984 LeTour Luxe. None of the bikes are original except for paint.I've upgraded all bikes with higher end components than were originally spec'd. I would like to add a 1974 to the collection, along with a 1978 LeTour III someday. Back in the early 90's before I started collecting I bought a LeTour from a guy a work. The bike he thought was a 1986-1988.The bike was nice. True Temper tubing, 27"x1" tires. Index shifting. It was smooth and quick. I've located the bike and ask if the guy wants to sell it. Nope. So maybe someday I'll get the bike back that started it all. Kevin

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by Jimbo Jones on 12/5/2003 at 1:16:06 AM
Iv'e still got a IV that that my dad bought me. Can one visually distinguish a chicago frame from a japanese one?
My bikes rear brake bridge has crimped ends. Is that different?
Personally I downgraded mine to look like a 60s Varsity .Took the paint off the chromed fork.Added a Wrights saddle,downtube shifters, sprint clips, lark deraileur,script decals, black wall tires, big spoke protector and an upright aluminum phantom style stem.
I didn't like the fact that the bike looked so busy and now its quite sexy.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Schwinn Le Tour posted by chris on 10/27/2006 at 5:25:22 PM
I have an all original le tour from 1973! yep half crome fork and all it is as it was seat beauty ring chain gaurd except tires! i have removed the plastic tape and replaced it with cork taape and a gell seat for my old behind lol it was stored in a garage for about 17 years I was told a little tlc and I ride it every few days it's a great bike! it just goes! tried to post a picture no luck!
by: 71.2.68.212






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Flat Country Riding posted by: Gralyn on 12/1/2003 at 5:53:21 PM
I spent the Holiday down in Orlando, FL. It's pretty-much level ground compared with the foothills where I live. I wasn't going down there without a bike, though. But then, I had to decide which bike to take. It was obvious that I should take a fixed-gear bike. I decided on the Lambert Viscount (I've been collecting components to build it up as multi-speed...and I still lack the brake levers - having all the necessary components....so, it's still set-up as fixed gear). It was great riding! The first couple days were like Summertime....but then, the weather turned cold. The wind was icy and blew continuously. But, it was still great riding! I think anytime I go to the coast, or anywhere that it is predominantly level - I will take a fixed-gear bike.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Flat Country Riding posted by JONathan on 12/1/2003 at 8:29:54 PM
I took my "Technium" due to the wet weather in the Sacramento Valley. It too, is so flat you can see the curvature of the earth! There are nominal hills, but nothing to make a multi-speed welcome. I like to blast up to 35mph and glide for 2 minutes; kinda reminds me of sailing...real quiet, slicing through the air. I would consider a fixed gear conversion, but I coast a lot and daydream. I'd be sure to forget to pedal or something complicated like that.
Both wheels release easily and the whole fits snuggly into a compact's truck. When we bring one bike, I use the trunk, rather than a rack. I can get the bike out and ready to ride in 35 seconds! A record of sorts, but the drill pays off when I get dropped off to ride rather than shop at the malls. There are no bikes in the malls, so what is there to keep me around. I know what you mean about the simple rigs. Just for a straight ride, they're perfect. No messing around.
I'm thinkin' more about a fixed gear. I think I will look for a dedicated unit, rather than convert one. Makes for an interesting challenge around here, S.F. Bay Area.
Cheers, JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Flat Country Riding posted by Gralyn on 12/1/2003 at 8:57:05 PM
All the fixed-gear bikes I have are conversions (all 8 of them....well, one of them is in-process, 3 or 4 of them will be converted back to multi-speed, and one of them is a too-big-for-me frankenbike). But, the thing with the conversions is the low cost, and the more comfortable geometry.

I didn't take a rack either....just QR'd the front wheel and put it in the very back of the mini-van.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Flat Country Riding posted by jack on 12/2/2003 at 3:44:31 AM
I agree w/Gralyn. I also wanted a track bike w'fixed gear then built a quality touring frame into a single speed and it was just the ticket. I don't think I would be nearly as comfy with a track frame

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Flat Country Riding posted by mike patterson on 12/2/2003 at 11:41:41 PM
i've had some fun with a Nishiki (shields version) frame wth both a fixed gear and a BMX freewheel on it, you can still coast with the freewheel. Now looking for a flip-flop hub to set up both on the same bike. Have a brampton hub but it is 40h. Simpl is bttr!






FOR SALE:   PANASONIC TEAM posted by: Ps103 on 12/1/2003 at 4:26:42 AM
Nice Panasonic Team with double-butted frame

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