OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights







MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by: Mick on 4/7/2003 at 5:12:24 PM
Things that make you laugh with rage, Ebay item #3602667153. I hope this isnt any one here doing this.


   RE:MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by Dave on 4/7/2003 at 5:53:26 PM
Mick, I guess he doesn't read Sheldon Browns site. At least no one has placed a bid yet.

   RE:MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by Eric Amlie on 4/7/2003 at 6:24:41 PM
I'd buy it if I was doing a restoration on a French bike. I sure wouldn't ride it though!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by Gralyn on 4/7/2003 at 7:33:19 PM
Oh...is this the famous "death stem"? Hey, I bet I have one of those! I have a couple that look similar to that. Do they have "AVA" on the stem somewhere? I would hate to be riding around with one of those and not know it. How do you know you have the "AVA Death Stem"?

   RE:Death stem posted by Eric Amlie on 4/7/2003 at 7:58:04 PM
Gralyn, that be it. Note the position of the clamping bolt under the handlebar and the long points on the faux lug detail. These are the marks of the death stem. There were other AVA stems with the clamp bolt positioned vertically in front of the handlebar that were supposedly ok but as John E. cautions, all of this old alloy stuff in mission critical use should be viewed with suspicion and probably not used(I do use the "ok" AVA stems myself though). These usually are stamped AVA on the top of the bar clamp.

   RE:RE:Death stem posted by andym on 4/8/2003 at 12:41:43 PM
Has anyone here broken one of these stems? I've probably owned a couple of bikes with this style of stem before. I'm six feet and 200+ pounds and a fairly strong rider(or at least used to be)never busted one.Hell,I never even heard of a "death stem". I pulled a different style stem out while sprinting once.That was twenty years ago,still have the scars from that.

   Death stem posted by John E on 4/8/2003 at 4:07:51 PM
For the same money, I could buy a very decent, safe, modern stem. To answer the earlier question, I have never broken a stem or handlebar, possibly because I do not trust them when they reach a certain age or mileage. However, since I have broken two cranks, two rear axles, a pedal cage, a front hub flange, and three frames, I am pretty cautious about using old parts. (For the record, I weigh only 63kg / 139lb, but I do enjoy hill climbs.)

   RE:RE:RE:Death stem posted by JONathan on 4/8/2003 at 4:10:07 PM
No, I haven't snapped an AVA stem, or any stem for that matter. I have replaced bent alloy stems that were on Raleigh "record" tens. Beating the odds is a strange mode to operate under, considering the inevitable is bound to happen...given enough time, so I try to hedge a little by reducing known risks; like the AVA stems on my French tens. My biggest fear are pedals giving out. Man, I hate that. If you want to cut down some risk of a "criticality 1" event, take some time to inspect the pedal spindles in bikes you ride, especially near the shoulder. Us retrophiles with a frugal personality (me) are in a bit of an economic pickle when it comes to parts. On the one, you have older parts that are of general high quality, but with some wear and the other is a deep-pocket requirement to buy quality new parts. I check Shimano cranks. There are at least three that are in the same league as the AVA stems. I say it can't hurt to trim the odds in your favor by taking care of blantant risks, there are plenty of non-blatant ones make my rides potentially more exciting than I would ever wish. My 2c.'s, JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:RE:Death stem posted by Dave on 4/8/2003 at 5:26:25 PM
I've never broken a stem or handlebar, but pedals and cranks I have.I had a Campy LH crankarm snap about 2" above the pedal hole,fortunately I was close to home.I always replace those really inexpensive pedals,(like plastic body).Not much fun riding one legged.

   RE:MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by JONathan on 4/8/2003 at 11:16:26 PM
Say, Mick. I couldn't find the item #3602667153. What is the make? I went through about 25 of 33 pages for road bikes on e-bay and there were a couple Peugeots that looked to be AVA equiped. Thanks, anyone. JONathan

   RE:ebay search posted by Eric Amlie on 4/9/2003 at 12:43:00 PM
Jonathan, just hit the search button on ebay and put in the auction number. It should come up with it. The item is in

Sports:Sporting Goods:Cycling:Parts & Accessories:Handlebars

The auction started 4/6 at 21:30 and ends 4/13 at 21:30.
Auction title is;

AVA Handlebar and AVA STEM Peugeot Bicycle

   RE:MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by Mick on 4/9/2003 at 4:35:47 PM
Ive never had stems/bars break on me, but if Sheldon Brown says dont use these I have to concure. After all he didnt just fall off a turnup truck, but then again :). I have a AVA bar/stem w/vertical bolt I took off a 73 Peugeot and I will not use them, I'd give them away to anyone that wants them. I only payed $15 bucks for the whole bike! $35 bucks for a bad stem/bar?

   RE:RE:MISC:   Just Junk!?! posted by JONathan on 4/10/2003 at 12:36:43 AM
It pays to be an informed buyer. I have one that looks just like it. Some of mine have bolts pointing up. Some have bolts pointing parallel to the top tube. That particular cast looks like it could fracture spontaneously. I compared it to a DuraAce stem that going on my UO-8. It's 22.2mm vs. the 22mm AVA stem. I think it'll fit after a few swipes with 300grit wet/dry emory paper. First, I will see if grinding a hair thickness off the internal diameter of the locknut does the trick.
Thanks for telling me how to "navigate" to that page. JONathan






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by: Kim on 4/6/2003 at 7:09:28 PM
We just picked up a Steyr Puch Adult Female Tricycle. We know nothing nor can find anything about this tricycle. We need to fix the brake and shifter cables & seat but would like to keep it as near original as possible. The shifter says Sturmey-Archer England, front hub says Made in Germany with something like a 3 leaf clover stamped in it. The back tire rims state 26 x 1 3/8 Made in France<>RIGIDAL<>Chromage Super Chromix. The decal on the frame under the handlebars say Steyr Puch 100 Years and another under the seat has the Olympic circles, Steyr, Lion picture, Presicion Steel, Olympic circles. As we have never heard of this brand and cannot find anything about it, can someone please let us know what we have and where we can find parts.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by JONathan on 4/6/2003 at 7:46:02 PM
Nice find. Steyr-Daimler-Puch in Austria made a lot of 3-speed bikes; many of which were sold at Sears Dept. stores in the '60's and '70's. As the exception to department store bikes, they were excellent rides, well worth fixing up; especially if you only need cables and a shifter. If you get desperate (bike stores don't have a shifter) you can always try a thrift store for a 3 speed bike for that part. I've gotten a bike for $10, or so, just for a wheel! Try buying a wheel at a bike shop, you'll see what I mean.
If you have'nt ridden a tricycle before (except as a tiny person) you are in for some surprises. I got one for my mother, who had never ridden a bike and she was freaked by the traversal on plain driveway inclines. They don't allow for correction. But, if balance is a concern, they are great. Just keep it level. Needless to say, I got the trike back and sold it to a neighbor for $50. As a collector's bike, I'd say they are pretty rare. $100, maybe. What'd you pay?
Happy riding, JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by JONathan on 4/6/2003 at 7:59:13 PM
OK, forgot the Sturmey-Archer setup. Look on the drum (where the sprocket gear is on the wheel axle) there is a 2 digit number that is the date of manufacture. That is probably the original wheel, so that would be a close guess on the date of the trike, too. Don't take my $100 as any credible estimate. It may be worth a lot more, especially if it's older than bike-boom era (pre-1970). The Sturmey-Archer hubs are English made and are still easy to find in 3 speed "AW" model. The Rigida rims are made in France, were put on Peugeot bikes in the '60's and '70's. They may have ripples that supposedly help with clearing water from the rim during braking. They were put on Normandy hubs, often. Pretty doggone heavy units. Well, good luck. JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by Kim on 4/8/2003 at 9:55:21 PM
The drum is stamped with 63 then a 7. We paid $125.00 for this trike. The 2 rear rims are teh Ridiga, but do not have ripples. It looks like the front rim is not original. The original seat is still on it, but rotted away with a removeable cover on it. Now to get it running.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by Kim on 4/8/2003 at 9:56:00 PM
The drum is stamped with Sturmey-Archer then under that a 63 then a 7. We paid $125.00 for this trike. The 2 rear rims are the Ridiga, but do not have ripples. It looks like the front rim is not original. The original seat is still on it, but rotted away with a removeable cover on it. Now to get it running.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by JONathan on 4/8/2003 at 11:48:57 PM
Whoa! That's a 1963 trike, I would guess. You got a good deal. Those externals are easy enough to deal with, if you have a some mechanical skill. How to fix it up? Unless you are really into bike repair or if you are mechanically inclined with a good array of tools, I would take it to the LBS and get an estimate. You'll want tires (don't forget tubes and rim strips), brake pads (if they are caliper brakes), brake cables, shifter and cable, seat, chains (if it has two) and lubrication of the hub (a must do after so long a period of just drying out). Oh, might adjust the spokes if any are loose. With the exception of lubrication, the tasks are fair to moderate difficulty, but the biggest problem are jobs that are done well enough to function, but not correctly enough to be safe or longlasting. So, that's what I'd do if I was new to bike repair, unless I needed a ride and $$ were a problem. If you get the work and parts all from the same shop (assuming you have a shop that can work with internal hubs) they might give a pretty good price for the whole package. Then you can know it's done right and you have recourse to get it fixed if something needs it within the gaurantee period. You can get the shifter new at Harris Cyclery, and read Sheldon Brown's article on English 3 speeds and hubs.
Good luck. Whatever you spend in time or money will be worth it in riding the trike and selling it, if you decide you don't want it. Good luck, JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Steyr Puch 3 Speed Tricycle posted by JONathan on 4/8/2003 at 11:54:15 PM
Giant makes a seat that you may want to check out. It's the same one that's on their 7-speed cruisers. It's high quality at about $25, I think. Maybe that was on sale. Cheers, JONathan






WANTED:   Raleigh Super Course decals posted by: Joe on 4/6/2003 at 7:48:24 AM
Hi,
I was wandering if anyone might know where to buy replacement decals for a '77 Raleigh Super Course?
I need all of them as is I intend to refinish the entire bike in it's original red. I am also going to need the original headbadge rivets as well.
If anyone has a source for these please let me know.
Thanks, Joe


   RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Super Course decals posted by Edward in Vancouver on 4/7/2003 at 3:34:53 AM
Try Nick at Lloyds, (England). Specializes in decals for alot of different bikes as well as Motorcycles. He'll also have new Ralegh headbadges and the copper rivets to go with them, listed under his "rocking horse manure" parts. Don't have his site address handy, but know he's listed under Sheldon Brown's site.






MISC:   roadster texas rangerette posted by: Chris on 4/6/2003 at 2:40:17 AM
I just need to know WHERE to find information about a bike I recently recieved. It is a blue texas Rangerette, apparently all original parts except the tires and in pretty good condition.
Where do I look to research this bike?
Thank you so much in advance.


   RE:MISC:   roadster texas rangerette posted by sam on 4/6/2003 at 5:47:46 PM
Texas Rangers (& Rangerettes) were re-badged bikes much like western flyers.In fact compair it to western flyers or AMF bikes and you might get a match.






MISC:   Hook beaded tires? posted by: Joe on 4/5/2003 at 10:03:24 AM
Hi, I am hoping someone here can answere a few questions I have as far as older rims and hook bead tires.
I recently picked up a set of Wolber Super Champion 700c rims with a set of Wolber 700c X 25 tires on them. The tires are old but the rims are A1. I noticed when I went to replace these that the bead of these tires has a definite hook along the edge of each bead. The rim also is shaped different as is it's inner sidewalls are tapered inward with only a small edge to catch the bead. There is a nylon tube protector that is quite thick and looks to be meant to be a filler or spacer. This piece is also marked 'Wolber'. Someone told me that these were meant to be a dual purpose rim as in they can be used with a clincher or a tubular. I haven't ever heard of this before. My main questions are:

Has anyone ever seen this type of rim before?
Will these rims take a standard 700c tire?
If not, does anyone know where I can get this type of tire?

The tires are actually difficult to dismount and mount since the bead actually locks under the lip of the rim,there also isn't much give since the bead can not drop down to allow extra cleance to remove the tire. I have had tough tires to dismount, mount and re-seat but these are by far the worst. With the the extra thick tube protector strip, they look like they could take a tubular tire as well. I was also considering the fact that the rim strip might have to be changed to use another tire but that would change the seating diameter of the bead (the strip extends under the side lip of the rim).
Thanks,
Joe


   Hook beaded tires? posted by John E on 4/5/2003 at 8:11:27 PM
Yes, I vaguely recall early 1970s box-section rims which purportedly could be used for either type of tyre. To use tubulars, one would have to remove the rim strip and apply tyre cement.

Today's safety lesson: Most modern high-pressure tyres require a hook-bead rim, whereas many older rims have smooth inside edges. Tyre beads have been known to lift out of rims, with potentially serious consequences.

   RE:MISC:   Hook beaded tires? posted by glenn on 4/5/2003 at 11:24:41 PM
Hi,

They were called Mixte rims, made by super champion prior to the sale to wolber. Idea was you could run clinchers or sewups on them. Neither worked well but most old clincher tires mount ok and stay put. I have Wolber Ralleye on a set and they ride fine as long as you don't over inflate them. When over inflated, the bead will pop from an area of the rim. I have nos sets if you are interested.

Glenn

   RE:Hook beaded tires? posted by JONathan on 4/6/2003 at 5:07:06 AM
Before I figured that out, I had blown two tubes. Both times, it happened on my porch just from the sun heating the tire. Pretty loud pops, too. The tubes had 4 inch tears. The first time it happened, I replaced the tire; thinking it was getting weak. After the second event, I decided it was the rim. Speaking of the UO-8's. There was a model designated; "AO-8". I saw one at this site: http://216.239.57.100/search?q=cache:3MSIauxFWc8C:www.yellowjersey.org/pig.html+peugeot+uo-8&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
It is hard to tell from the catalog picture, but it appears to NOT have lugs and the fork crown looks slanted along with enamel all the way to the ends. My question is: Was the AO-8 a welded frame? I have one like it that is a decent ride. BTW, the UO-8 pictured is exactly like the two that I have been restoring. One will be just as original (non-rider), the other is a 25 inch frame that I plan to fix up just like yours for riding. My 23 inch UO-8 is a remarkable bike. It is the best all-around bike that I ride. The 25 inch frame bike I plan as a long-range (level 3) tour bike. The AO-8 handles like a sport bike. I spin it every once in a while.
uI was lucky to have a cache of French parts, mostly from $0 - $10 mixtes that I picked up over the years. The white UE-18 was to be my wife's ride, with me on the white UO-8 we'd look pretty cool, except she only rides the '65 Raleigh "sports" or the tandem. To each their own, I say. BTW, thanks for the tire lesson. I didn't know why I had the blow-outs, just changed the rim to resolve the problem. JONathan

   AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by John E on 4/7/2003 at 2:53:46 AM
I assembled, repaired, and sold Peugeots and Nishikis at Bikecology in the early 1970s. The AO-8 was an economy model UO-8, but with the same lugged steel frame until about 1980, when the carbolite welded frames took over.

hubs: UO-8: high-flange, quick-release;
AO-8: low-flange, wingnutted;

forks: UO-8: half-chrome;
AO-8: painted;

handlebar tape: UO-8: full;
AO-8: lower half only;

I believe the AO-8's decal set was a bit simpler than the UO-8s, and AO-8 colour choices were limited to blue and green.

   RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by JONathan on 4/7/2003 at 6:35:55 PM
Thanks, John E. I guess I don't have an AO-8. The welded frames look sleek. My best all-around is a welded frame UO-8 (black), except it has enamel all the way. No chrome at all. However, it was rigged as a touring bike whenI acquired it. Maybe it's a AO-18. I actually like the solid paint job (no chrome); straight utilitarian bicycle. It handles great in tight and yet it is comfortable for up to 70 KM or a long day ride. I was amazed how well it damps the bumps. I'm running a SunTour "cyclone" rear derailer. One white UO-8 that I'm fixing up as a show bike, all original, non-rider, has "Melo" freewheel that needs a remover tool that is very similar (2-pin) to older SunTours (fr-2). I couldn't find the extractor tool at any shop, so I made one out of a high-impact socket (thick wall). I haven't tried it out, but I has to work since it is beefed compared to the retail stuff. Those 2 notch freewheels were a dumb design. If I wasn't trying to make the restoration perfect, I wouldn't worry about overhauling the freewheel. Those Rigida steel "chromlux" wheels are about as heavy as they get. Shine up real nice, though. Thanks, JONathan

   RE:RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by JONathan on 4/8/2003 at 4:31:53 PM
My custom made remover tool worked great. With a dremel cutoff wheel and bench grinder, it's a done deal. I figured the time it took (23 minutes) to fashion this wonder was not worth the $10 to buy a remover, but the time (hours) to hunt around a 100 mile radius for a shop that has one was not an intelligent alternative to a lunch hour spent turning one out.
Flats need to be ground parallel on the outside to provide enough purchase in a vise... or for a wrench (not recommended, IMHO).

   RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by Rob on 4/8/2003 at 5:42:09 PM
Hmmm...this does get subtle... Over the past two weeks I've picked up three, what I thought were UO-8's (spring clean-up days). Judging from these posts, I would say two were AO-8's and one a UO-8. (these bikes are defintely not the touring model which also seems to be common in the Vancouver area...during last year's spring clean-up I got a couple of frames that were set up with the braze-ons associated with the touring model and I'm pretty sure they had painted forks???...) I notice the UO-8, and a UE-8 I bought a year or so ago, have 'plastic-like' grips on the MAFAC levers, another cosmetic 'improvement' I guess. The UO-8 has a stem shifter arrangement which appears to be original (there are cable guide braze-ons where the downtube shifters would go).

The colors???...The UO-8 is an orange color, and the AO-8's are red and a kind of burnt orange (reddish orange). All of them seem to have the same 'boat-anchor' steel cranks, some quite rusty. Some have the red background rear der. and others the silver background...there doesn't seem to be any consistency, but I guess that doesn't mean much so many years later. The ones that still have the original front der. were all the push-rod type.

Oh, I also found something called a Mirage, made in France, Simplex parts...looks pretty much like a Peugeot UO-8...I guess it's a knockoff of some sort...

   RE:RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by JONathan on 4/9/2003 at 12:11:16 AM
The "mirage" I think was Motobecane. There was the "nomade", too. I agree that the externals are usually cheap, but the frames are solid quality. You wouldn't guess I had a UO-8 by what parts are attached to it. I have the Stronglight cranks still. I say keep those frames, they're worth their weight. UO-8's on a curbside pickup!? Man, that's something else. JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by Rob on 4/9/2003 at 1:37:55 AM
The 1970's UO-8's, UE-8's, UE-18's and I guess the AO and, if it exists, the AE series, which I wasn't previously aware of as being different from the UO/UE's, are as common as dirt around the Vancouver area, along with that ubiquitous Canadian brand, Apollo from the same era (made in Japan by Kuwahara...they were also marketed in Australia and in fact I think the brand is still sold there...made by whom I don't know). Vancouver has quite a wide selection of old European and Japanese road bikes...I guess it's the climate...positively 'tropical' by Canadian standards...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by JONathan on 4/9/2003 at 5:50:23 AM
Kuwahara, yes. A guy who had toured Labrador on a Kuwahara in the late '80's just gave my brother the bike at a garage sale, here in S.F bay area. My brother had made a wrong turn and while he tried to wind his way out of the suburban mix, he spotted the sale. He needed a bike, so he stopped without getting out of his truck and hollered to the guy if he had any bikes for sale. The guy said he could have the bike, including the front and rear panniers! After I replaced the wheels which were both beat pretty bad, replaced the brake shoes and lubed the BB and head set, it was ready to go. We gave it a test run on the badest trails in the hills. It was decent. I mean I tried to bust something loose (free bike, right) and it held. I think that Kuwahara knows how to build tough bikes. It has the cool metal SunTour above-bar, detent shifter for a rear ARx derailer and a straight, friction SunTour front derailer. Braze-ons everywhere and it has a 44 inch wheelbase! I'm not laughing as he dusted me coming down home on the blacktop. Now my question is: Why couldn't we get bikes like that Kuwahara? BTW, they are bigtime into offroad racing, too. What bikes are gard to find in B.C.? JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by Dave on 4/9/2003 at 3:37:08 PM
I have obtained 2 bikes that had "Free Bike" signs on them.One was an Austrian Sears Free Spirit ladies 3-speed I sold for $35,the other is a Raleigh Gran Prix that a friend didn't want.After replacing the rusty wheels,crankset & rear derailler,I found a very smooth riding and comfortable machine.And no matter how much the replacement parts are, you still can't beat the price.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AO-8 vs UO-8 posted by JONathan on 4/10/2003 at 12:50:46 AM
If you find a men's 3 speed "free spirit" tha's Austrian (Steyr-Daimler-Puch), and you want to pass on it, drop an e-mail. I've been trying to sniff one out for a few months. I saw a lady's "free spirit" that looks lower quality than mine. I think the '60's were better than the '70's. That's consistent with Sear's powertool evolution, as a parallel. Nice going, there, Dave! JONathan






AGE / VALUE:   Canadian bicycle posted by: Dave on 4/5/2003 at 9:58:03 AM
I am trying to find information on a Canadian made Alex Kay bicycle.It appears to be 1940s-50s.Any help would be appreciated.Thank you.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Canadian bicycle posted by Warren on 4/6/2003 at 2:05:28 AM
Hey! I've been looking for a KAY only because I've got a big honking right crankarm downstairs with the letters KAY spelled out. I've never found a reference to these bikes until now. I'd love to see a pic sometime...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Canadian bicycle posted by Dave on 4/7/2003 at 11:05:26 PM
The crank arm on the bicycle reads Utility,British made.The rims are British as well.Maybe the Kay company only assembled them here.I'm having no luck in finding any information but thank you for your reply.






MISC:   Plastic bearing Cage posted by: Bryant on 4/5/2003 at 1:01:22 AM
Here is something I've not seen before. The bearings for my Gitane (year unknown, but it has a Nervar steel cottered crank) bottom bracket are held in a plastic cage. At first I just thought it was a bad case of grunge but upon cleaning, it was black plastic. And instead of the normal nine bearings for a bottom bracket, it only held seven. Has anyone seen this before?


   RE:MISC:   Plastic bearing Cage posted by Mr.Skin on 4/5/2003 at 6:23:11 PM
I have run into a few of those, but cant remember crank or bb brand they were with. Seems to me that a nylon cage would cause less friction/wear than a steel one.

      Plastic bearing Cage posted by John E on 4/7/2003 at 2:56:06 AM
I generally replace caged bearings with a full set of loose balls, although I am not about to mess with the tapered roller bearings (embedded in plastic races) in my mountain bike's Tange headset.

   RE:   Plastic bearing Cage posted by Dave on 4/7/2003 at 5:59:47 PM
I've seen these on a Stronglight cottered bottom bracket on a early '70 French Stella and on a cotterless French bottom bracket set I bought also,(I think that was Nervar).






FOR SALE:   carlton posted by: josh on 4/5/2003 at 12:39:23 AM
posted early about a carlton in rough shape. Would anybody be interested in buying or trading for this bike?







AGE / VALUE:   Carlton International 1960's posted by: karl on 4/4/2003 at 10:28:13 PM
I received as a gift a couple of days ago, a 1960's Carlton International. (It looks just like the one on Classic Rendezvous website) It is a beautifully lugged frame, pretty much all campy, and best of all free. It has been slightly neglected over the years, bent rear dropout(repairable) the cable stop/bridge is broken off of the seat stays. It could use paint and chrome, and new decal set. What I would like to determine is the age more exactly, is there anyway to find a Carlton headbadge and decal set? Where in the Carlton line did this bike fall? Also specifications for model. Any and all help appreciated.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Carlton International 1960's posted by luker on 4/4/2003 at 11:44:13 PM
wow. i wish i had friends like yours. The International was one from the top (Professional first). Later it was third after the Team and the Professional. I was at a Raleigh shop today and I think that is the current line up as well. The International is pretty valuable - I recently watched a 70's vintage frame and fork go for '$250 on EBay. Fix that brake bridge carefully. You want to hold onto the original finish.

luker






AGE / VALUE:   carlton posted by: josh on 4/4/2003 at 9:26:48 PM
I just bought a carlton 4 speed fw hub bicycle the hub is date 1953. it has gb champion handlebars and gb super hub brakes levers and courier brakes. the bike is in really rough shape the paint/ chrome is no good. the brooks saddle is also thrashed. the trigger shifter is three speed not four speed. I was wondering the value of this in its current shape.







AGE / VALUE:   AVA stem on Peugeot UO-8 posted by: JONathan on 4/4/2003 at 5:26:24 PM
Got the 30% off Peugeot UO-8 for $14 at St. Vincent, yesterday. I had been checking this bike for a few weeks. After reading the post about the "Pivo"; "AVA"; and alloy cranks; and after I read Sheldon Brown's great article on French bicycles; and after I found this bike had the infamous AVA stem, I was at least an "informed" buyer. Thanks, all! My question is: Is the AVA stem a faulty product or was it a quality control issue (like every xth stem had a crack)? The stem on the bike had been "burned in" sufficiently and had not failed. Was this luck? Of course, this also would mean there is high probability that it will fail soon, due to its age. Needless to say, I am replacing the AVA, but will keep it as a "non-riding" part for originality; assuming it would be assembled for display purposes. Thanks for the "heads-up" on this serious defect. My question is more academic than practical. It's got to go. Sheldon Brown describes a neat way to refit a standard stem into the headset. This bike has Nervar steel, cottered cranks with Rigida, "chrome-deluxe" rippled rims; mafac "racer" cp brakes. The original shifters were stem-mounted simplex, but is set up on the downtube, at present. The rear derailer is SunTour "V" with a narrow cluster freewheel (no large cog). The serial number is on a plate that's riveted to the BB. The forks are chrome-tipped and the flat neck is chromed. The color is white. All the decals are in great shape. Fancy lugs with black trim make for a striking appearance with the 25 inch frame. It is a "mate" for my white UO-18 (mixte) with the identical paint and decals as the UO-8. It is all simplex equipped. What would the time stamp be for these bikes? Also, there is another UO-8 for $25 that has been tampered into a 26 inch wheel 10 speed. It is identical to my black UO-8, so I would like it as a project. It will be $15 later this month. Should I get it, now? It's been there for 2 months at $25. Thanks, JONathan


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AVA stem on Peugeot UO-8 posted by Gralyn on 4/4/2003 at 8:55:35 PM
It's weird about some bikes. Around here - I would probably grab a U-08 for $25.....that is...if I every saw a U-08 at all. And if I did - and it was $25 - I would certainly grab it. But - if I saw one for $15 - I would grab it no questions asked. Around here, if I think I want a bike - I can't afford to gamble on waiting until it's marked down - because if I was lucky enough to come upon it - unless it is total crap of a bike - it will be gone by the next day.
Of course, you have to consider things like....do you really want the bike....you wouldn't care if it gets gone....you would buy it if it was $10 or $15....but you don't really care to put more than that into it. Those things.....
I have a U-08 - which I paid somewhere between $60 and $70 (and which - my stem had been previously replaced)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   AVA stem on Peugeot UO-8 posted by Dave on 4/4/2003 at 9:47:27 PM
I'm still envious , I paid $175 for a Orange '73 U08.This bike still has the AVA stem, I'll need to find a replacement. I would say the time frame between '70 and '72 for yours, Jonathan , mine has a cotterless Maxy crankset.A friend has a blue one w/cotters and it looks to be a '72.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   AVA stem on Peugeot UO-8 posted by JONathan on 4/5/2003 at 2:35:19 AM
Call it destiny, but today I got another white UO-8 at a church runnage sale. Here are the specs. Nervar 52/40 cottered; mafac racers; simplex prestige rear and front; and the same funky barbs on the DT for a pump; AVA stem; steel bars; Rigida "chromLux" rims; Normandy HF hubs and a most supreme saddle. The saddle is leather, full grain with "ADGA" stamped on it. Model 28A. This bike has a serial number on the left rear dropout, but there are also two tiny holes in the BB where the ID plate would be attached. The detailing is identical to the other white UO-8 that I got yesterday. What's going on? I came out smelling really good on the tires...brand new "Specialized Transitions", well they feel and look like new. This bike was not punched too hard and was definitely in a closed area for years. Someone probably got tires and gave it a spin until the loose chain pushed the tension wheel onto the gear cluster. The tension wheel is chewed real bad, but that's a no brainer job to replace. Fortunately the derailer is fine, not even out of alignment. I have seen a lot of UO-8's in the past months. Rather unusual, it seems. Thanks for the date estimate. I was hoping for a '60's, but early '70's is OK, Two bikes for $26 ain't bad for a day's hunt. I guess I'll gamble on the black UO-8 still being around for a couple weeks. This store doesn't move a lot of bikes. The wait will make me feel like a smart shopper, if you'd call buying these things "smart" in any sense. Can't wait to get going on this project. Thanks again, JONathan

    Peugeot UO-8 posted by John E on 4/5/2003 at 8:27:37 PM
I just returned from a 20km errand run on my UO-8, which is rapidly becoming my main general purpose utility bike. Although I bought the frame for my wife when I worked at Bikecology, I have recently taken it over, since she now prefers to ride offroad on my mountain bike. I have upgraded it to aluminum Sugino Aero cranks, aluminum Rigida rims on Normandy Luxe Competition hubs, SunTour derailleurs and barcons, and 27 x 1-3/8" knobby tyres, making it a delightful commuter which can handle cyclecross, as well. If you do not mind scrounging a bit for French-thread and French-diameter parts, the UO-8 is, as always, fun, economical transportation.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AVA stem on Peugeot UO-8 posted by Mick on 4/7/2003 at 5:18:19 PM
See Ebay item #3602667153...






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Black Dura Ace and other prices posted by: Keith on 4/4/2003 at 2:17:05 PM
Continuing the discussion below, I found my old club newsletters with ads, and here's some info on Dura Ace. A December 1974 issue has an ad listing black Dura Ace cranksets for $79.95, sidepull brakes for 69.95, front derailleur for $16.95 and rear derailleur for $21.95. For comparison, the same shop was selling Campy Nouvo Record front derailleurs for $19.95 and rear NR for $39.95. Nouvo Record brakesets were $84.95, and NR cranksets were the same price. So black Dura Ace was priced not too far off from Campy stuff. Other fun goodies in the ads include the groundbreaking Fabo "Alan" aluminum frames for $195(1st and 2nd place in the amateur world championships were on these frames), Paramount frames for $169, and Mercian frames for $195. In the October 1974 issue Teledyne Titan frames were a whopping $392! Colnagos went for $299.







WANTED:   Raleigh 165 mm SR left crankarm posted by: Joe on 4/4/2003 at 8:36:18 AM
I am looking for a good used or nos 165 mm Raleigh pantographed left crankarm. I believe these were made by SR in Japan and they were used around '77 to 79 on various road bike models (maybe longer). This would be an alloy cotterless arm. If anyone has one they would like to get rid of or knows where I might find one please let me know. Either email me direct above or post a reply here. Thanks, Joe


   RE:WANTED:   Raleigh 165 mm SR left crankarm posted by Dave on 4/4/2003 at 9:49:52 PM
I beleive I have one,send me a ship to address , $5 plus shipping.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Columbus Tubing posted by: Luker on 4/4/2003 at 5:39:20 AM
Okay then, one more for the experts - Does anyone out there know their way around the morass of tubing stickers that Columbus has made in the 78's-80's? I've got Aelle, Chromor, SL, SP, and SLX figured out, but I recently got a Bianchi with a Columbus Formula 2 label on the seat tube.
The bike is from 1987, and the seat post size is 27.2, so I figured it might be good quality tubing. Where does this tubing rank in their pantheon? And is Formula 1 better, or just different, or is it all a marketing ploy and the tubing manufacturer really Ishiwata or something?

thanks in advance - luker







MISC:   Questions... posted by: Edward inVancouver on 4/4/2003 at 4:18:20 AM
Saw a kinda neat frame in a consignment store, but couldn't get a real good look at it, because it was hanging up on the ceiling. It was a Philips, in a colour best described as Raleigh bronze green, wrap-around chainstays, brazed-on cable guides on the B.B., cottered crank axle, chromed fork tips, fender eyelets, and a very flat fork crown. Couldn't see much of the rest of it. Headbadge said Philips,----ham,
so I don't know if it's a Raleigh rebadge, but like I said, the colour was dead ringer for Raleigh bronze green. Is the fame worth making the clerk pull it down so I can look at it?
Also, got lucky in poking around at the dumpster behind the store (do you guys do that too, or am I a freak?..) and spotted a crappy french 10 spd with white Bluemels fenders. The mounting hardware was rusted but the fenders still pliable with no cracks. Would it be sacrilage to paint them, or if I left them white, would they look allright on a early '90's lugged midnight blue Pinnarello?


   RE:MISC:   Questions... posted by luker on 4/4/2003 at 6:44:47 PM
If you paint plastic, you should put some flex agent into the paint so that it won't crack at the first bump. We are lucky to have a business in town that will mix automotive paint to specification and put it in a spray can. They can mix in the same kind of stuff that goes on the plastic bumper covers for newer cars, and it works really well.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Questions... posted by Dave on 4/4/2003 at 9:53:49 PM
Dumpster diving near bike shops is great,I found a MTB wheel and a Varsity that way...