OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   Falcon Cotswold Touring Bike posted by: Max M. on 5/22/2003 at 3:59:47 AM
I have this bike up for sale on Ebay. I hate to sell but it is too tall for me. Does anyonw have any idea of the approximate age?
Some of the more date specific stuff like the rear derailleur were replace by previos owner. It was a UK bike sold from a London bike shop.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2175440048&category=420&rd=1


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Falcon Cotswold Touring Bike posted by Dave on 5/22/2003 at 1:30:39 PM
My guess would be late 70's/early 80's,sure looks like a great bike,(my size too),I had an '81 Peugeot Course with a crankset that looked like yours,(although it said Peugeot).






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   SR Semi Pro posted by: Paul S on 5/22/2003 at 2:32:00 AM
I just picked up a SR Semi Pro at a garage sale. Nice understated frame with plenty of scratches, etc. Not abused as much as treated with indifference.Spec'd with the complete mid/late 70's Shimano 600 arabesque style group. I don't know much about the SR bike line though I'm familiar with their components. Does anyone have any information they could share on SR bikes or the Semi Pro in particular?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   SR Semi Pro posted by Warren on 5/22/2003 at 1:05:07 PM
I have an SR Pro-Am model that is probably from around 1980. They are typically nice japanese bikes from the period. SR is not the same company as SR Sakae who made components. I have pages from a brochure with the SR lineup incuding the specs on your bike. I'd be happy to scan it and send you jpgs.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   SR Semi Pro posted by PaulS on 5/23/2003 at 4:26:38 AM
I didn't realize that SR and SR Sakae weren't one and the same. Thanks for the info Warren. If it wouldn't be to much trouble I'd like to see the specs on the Semi Pro.






FOR SALE:   LAMBERT posted by: AJ on 5/22/2003 at 1:48:01 AM
Very nice original Lambert. Has the original aluminum DEATH fork. Would rate it a full 8, on a 0-10 scale. $250.00 plus packing and shipping.







MISC:   Wanted to find out posted by: Richard on 5/22/2003 at 12:27:47 AM
I happened to come across a Cadillac Bicycle and havent been able to find any information on it If anyone could help me out it would be apreceated all i know is its 50+ years old


   RE:MISC:   Wanted to find out posted by JONathan on 5/22/2003 at 11:09:54 PM
Try looking for Schwinn in the late '30's and early '40's. Try Roadmaster AMF, too. I seem to recall hearing of that model. Is is a balloony-tire? Try the balloon tire page.
How about soem details? Rims, gear, hubs, seat (although for an old bike the seat is likely changed) brakes and chainring pattern. Good luck.






MISC:   Wanted to find out posted by: Richard on 5/22/2003 at 12:27:47 AM
I happened to come across a Cadillac Bicycle and havent been able to find any information on it If anyone could help me out it would be apreceated all i know is its 50+ years old


   RE:MISC:   Wanted to find out posted by sam on 5/23/2003 at 12:51:22 AM
From the 20s to the 50s several makes of bikes used the Cadillac badge.colson for one.






AGE / VALUE:   Hercules info posted by: Rocky Fails on 5/21/2003 at 11:16:19 PM
Help!!!!,
I picked up a 10 speed Hercules recently and would love to find out more about it. The serial number is 3009088. If anyone has knowledge to share, please, feel free to write. Thanks a bunch.........Rocky







AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by: JONathan on 5/20/2003 at 11:02:11 PM
Recent discussion of wheels, spokes and rims, etc. and the links listed for further research has me wondering about a more general aspect of bicycle wheels.
I have numerous "orphan" wheels with good alloy hubs; decent spokes and steel rims. The axles and bearing assemblages are in fair to good condition. IOW, good to go. I was wondering if these items of my collection are worth hanging on to for a while. I typically, just have been cleaning them up and applying a silicon spray to inhibit rust. They are hanging a shed. Everytime I go in there I see those wheels and wonder what's the point of keeping such extras.
BTW, a recent post on stem-shifters...don't toss any of those! I tossed a lot of older wheels at the last curbside pick-up, and some were from the '50's. Then I started to grouse about it. Am I just a "horder" for wanting to keep hanging on to these wheels? Your thoughts are appreciated...JONathan


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by Gralyn on 5/21/2003 at 12:51:18 AM
I'm wanting to convert many of my bikes with stem shifters to down-tube shifters. But!...I will not toss the old stem shifters. Heck, I find it hard to toss anything. Unless it's totally rusted beyond help, or if it's totally damaged - I can't throw it away. I keep everything. I have several old frames, old ladies frames, etc. but I can't toss them. You will probably need those wheels at some time - just hang onto them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by Rob on 5/21/2003 at 1:36:56 AM
Gee...sounds like Gralyn and I are on the same wavelength...that's my typical approach as well. However when I'm being totally rational and "hard-nosed" about it, I try to decide if there is some inherent value in the item.

For example, just because steel rims are largely out of favour at the moment doesn't mean that'll always be the case, and it doesn't mean any old rim will meet the test...I would tend to hang on to obviously good quality rims...some of the English steel rims from way back are apparently very high quality...I think I have several good ones associated with some old Carlton bikes (future projects). I would also keep certain of the Rigida rims and I've got several apparently indestructable German rims called something like "Schurmann". I've also have at least one steel Arraya rim that looks pretty darn good. These rims seem to be impervious to rust...as I understand it's all in the quality of the chrome. Other steel rims including most of the Rigida rims I find on Peugeots and old Raleighs don't seem so good.

I would even keep good steel hubs as well for the same reasons...ie, English, and I guess there will be others....This is the theory...the reality is more along the lines of "I'll deal with that later..."

Just a few thoughts...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by sam on 5/21/2003 at 2:06:01 AM
I think what Rob is saying is true.Hang on to any part that is of high quality.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by JONathan on 5/21/2003 at 2:31:48 AM
Thanks for all the good advice. I have to check to see what's good in my collection of loose wheels. Normally, I can't toss anything that I can find a spot or a way to keep from rusting away. The 26 inch wheels appear higher grade than the 27's. As you say about the English rims being real good is true when I compare those with some rigida's and other 27's. I've got a few Japanese steel 27 inchers that seem like very high grade. The Japanese chrome holds up like the Schwinn S-6 and S-5. I have a pair of Bareta(sp.?) chrome rimmed, alloy hub that are really nice. They even brake very well.
Well, I guess I don't feel dumb keeping the wheels. THanks, JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by Dave on 5/21/2003 at 1:41:45 PM
I pitch ruined rims but now I've been hanging onto wheels also.Another great sturdy rim are those that were built by Schwinn,I kept one off a too small Varsity and now I have one that is my size that came with a non-Schwinn QR front, so I'll swap it,(my grocery hauler).

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by Gralyn on 5/21/2003 at 2:07:03 PM
What I've seen is that there are steel rims....and there are STEEL rims....I mean the ones that are very heavy, thick, solid steel - probably indesctuctible. I don't see those as being valuable - unless you want to convert your lightweight into a heavyweight. And those heavy steel wheels were probably mostly on low-end stuff anyway. But, if I had a set that was in good shape - I probably still wouldn't toss them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   old steel rim/alloy hub wheels worth keeping posted by Keith on 5/21/2003 at 4:22:47 PM
I think if you're going to use used steel rims, it's good to keep them. After all, they aren't going to have the same stress-crack problems inherent in aluminum rims. I gauge what to keep by: (1) the quality of the item; (2) it's condition; (3) it's usefulness to me or others; (4) at times, it's potential resale value; (5) how readily I could obtain another if I needed it (rarity);(6) the space it takes up; and (7) how many I already have.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bowden Sport brakes posted by: Colin on 5/20/2003 at 5:45:44 PM
Hi,
I recently acquired a Rensch Continental Road Racer (1938).
It is in almost original condition and has a Bowden Sport brake on the front and a GB Hiduminium on the rear. This is probably because it is on single fixed and would only have had one brake to start with so the Bowden is probably the original with the GB added later. Who made Bowden brakes? I don't think it was the Raleigh Company who were founded by Bowden because it says Foreign on it. Foreign was stamped on all imported goods whilst home produced items said "Made in England". Does anybody know and has anyone got a rear brake to sell/swap?
Regards,
Colin.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bowden Sport brakes posted by Warren on 5/20/2003 at 9:45:11 PM
I would not assume that the front brake is the original. It was not uncommon for fixed gear path/racers to have a solo rear brake, as does my 1930's CCM Road Racer (popular name wot?)Go to this CR page to look at a 1938 BSA sport bike...

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/British/BSA_1938_ad.htm






AGE / VALUE:   Flying Scot Tandem posted by: Tim Welsh on 5/20/2003 at 5:39:17 PM
I posted about a Flying Scot tandem that recently came to me. Pix are now posted on the Flying Scot web page. Look at the last thumbnail for 1940's bikes, and click to see a few photos. http://www.flying-scot.co.uk/gallery.html

My sweetie and I took it out for about 4 hours yesterday on Vancouver's seawall (after I rebuilt the rear hub - one cone was wrecked, but I managed to devise a replacement). The bike is generally in beautiful mechanical condition, having belonged to a professional bike mechanic. It is smooth, comfortable, and surprisingly fast. We were passing solo cyclists with little effort.

The bike's quite a head turner, and elicited quite a few surprised looks and unabashed smiles. I don't imagine another bike so unique will ever come my way.



   RE:AGE / VALUE: Flying Scot Tandem posted by Warren on 5/20/2003 at 9:50:00 PM
That is the most bloody awesome bike I've seen. Never sell it to anyone but me.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Flying Scot Tandem posted by Tim Welsh on 5/21/2003 at 12:00:42 AM
Warren:

I'm not particularly motivated to sell the bike, at least not soon. Still, I have to warn you that your initial bargaining position certainly would give me the upper hand ;o)

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Flying Scot Tandem posted by Warren on 5/21/2003 at 1:47:29 AM
Please take complete advantage of me...my love of that bike supercedes what little business acumen I have. But thanks for the warning!


   SunTour posted by John E on 5/21/2003 at 8:22:18 PM
That is a fine-looking tandem!

I am glad I am not the only one to put a SunTour rear derailleur (1972 V) on an older classic (1959 Capo).

    Fantasy: The Forbidden Tandem Incident. Part 1 posted by Chris on 5/21/2003 at 9:12:31 PM
A bit of a make believe, fun story to imagine. Do not attempt this at home with either a tandem or somebody's lady.
Imagine this scene, it won't happen this time, and not with this bike and not with these two folks.
This would be another time where I would slip in there and snap it up for some outrageous price. Then Eric would be remarking: "Just tell me that you didn't sell it to Chris. Not that awful (something, something) Chris fellow. Oh, Dude, you didn't! Tell me that guy didn't lay his hands on the tandem. Not MY tandem! "You sold it to stupid?"
Oh No! Then after a second Eric asks: "Why?"
George is nodding his head. "Yes. He made me an offer I couldn't refuse." (Or,)
"He told me you were not interested anymore and I could not get ahold of you on the phone."
Eric looks over in the corner of the shop where the tandem was and there is a empty space where it used to be. "Yes, he even bought up that roll of vintage cycle tools." "He called me up and I opened the shop up on Sunday evening" "Here Eric was going in on Monday with a cashiers check and Chris was there the night before with cash!"
Meanwhile as Eric is heartbroken and George is out buying stereo equipment, Chris and a lady pal are out tandeming with a picnic basket strapped onto the rear carrier. The goddess asks, "What are you grinning about up there?"
Meanwhile people are asking: Dude, Where did you find that awesome machine, and we are getting looks and compliments everywhere.
"Honey, you should not have turned left and why are we speeding up?"
"Oh, That's Eric up ahead! Quick!! pedal faster!" she hisses between breaths.
Meanwhile Eric has told everybody in the group how that awful Chris fellow "got that tandem deal out from under me."
They are all asking: "Do you mean stupid?"Oh yes, That's Chris! HE GOT THAT TANDEM???" The fellows in the shop are standing there watching Eric cracking his knuckles. Then one fellow comments: "Ya know something? He was in here talking to Misty the other day!"
Still, Eric does not put two and two together.
Meanwhile Eric's lady pal, Misty has just called him up and she faked a backache, a headache and she had to visit her mother suddenly all at once. Where was she really?
Out tandeming with that awful Chris!
You see Chris met Eric's lady pal Misty at the bike shop and they hit it off wonderfully and that awful Chris called her up!
She wispers to me, "He like, totally wants to kill you, you are aware of that, right? I don't know what he'd do if he saw us together!
Meanwhile the new hub gear/derailer set up has just been installed in the tandem so we can out run other cyclists at speed. This is the close ratio time trial hub that was adapted by the machinist to fit into the tandem's drivetrain.
Part 2 is about what happens after Eric's pal sees Chris out with Eric's goddess, Misty.
He's still unaware that the two ran off and were secretly married at the church with the tandem and are about to embark on a cross country tour.
Spotting Misty at the church on the tandem he's asking "Why are you wearing a white dress?" She replies: Chris told me you were no longer interested and I couldn't get ahold of you!
Ya, know? If I were to pull such a stunt, I would not settle for anything less than a vintage Flying Scot tandem after all!
A lady named Misty on a vitage Flying Scot tandem! Yeah!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Flying Scot Tandem posted by Tim Welsh on 5/21/2003 at 10:36:56 PM
A very fanciful story indeed. Good thing my sweetie's name isn't Misty, or I'd be suspicious.

One thing I forgot to mention about this bike. It was advertised clearly as a 'Flying Scot Tandem' in the local 'Buy & Sell' newspaper / website for at least a week before I saw. At the time, my car was out of service, so I had to wait another week before I could even go and see the bike. NOBODY ELSE HAD EVEN CALLED the gentleman who was selling bike. I guess Vancouver doesn't have many vintage bike collectors. I have gotten a couple of other bikes that way (tipping my hand a bit, here).

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Flying Scot Tandem posted by Chris on 5/22/2003 at 8:11:48 PM
I would say that only one call (yours) after a week is remakable and lucky for you.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by: Bryant on 5/20/2003 at 12:25:07 AM
I'm finishing up my Schwinn LeTour Mixte and I noticed something about the rear derailleur, it seems to be too small for the freewheel. When I shift to the lowest gear, the teeth on the freewheel rub against the jockey wheels. Now the rear derailleur is the original LeTour branded Shimano, and the rear der is a 14-28 so I'm working with original parts. I can see no bent parts on either the derailleur or the rear triangle.
Another thing I'm noticing is the chain overriding the lower jockey wheel and hanging up, causing the whole derailleur to jerk back. I talked with a buddy of mine who had a LeTour, and he said he had his rear derailleur rip off during a ride and had to have it replaced. Is this a LeTour problem or just this particular bike? Anyone else have these problems with the Le Tour??


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by JONathan on 5/20/2003 at 5:09:32 AM
Bryant, I would check that the derailer is positioned far enough back into the dropout and check if the parallelogram is parallel to the chain, assuming it's the SunTour type. Do you have the same chain? Good luck...JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by JONathan on 5/20/2003 at 5:59:13 AM
Try Sheldon Brown's "Derailer Adjustment" article. He describes the "B-Tension" or derailer angle adjustment. Make sure the chain is not too short!!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by Keith on 5/20/2003 at 2:07:09 PM
Is the chain original? I agree with Jonathan about trying the B-tension screw. If the upper jockey wheel is fluttering against the small cog, the chain might actually be a link or two too big. One way to know is if the problem disappears when you shift into the large chainring and the smallest cog on the rear. If it does, shift into the large chainring on the front and large cog on the back. Can you move the lower jockey forward with your finger enough to simulate a chain one link shorter? If you could remove a link and not stretch the lower jockey wheel to its limit (you'd feel it), then remove one link and see if you still have the same problem on the small cog/small chainring position. What you have is a LeTour-branded Suntour, and these have long been considered reliable derailleurs. But all rear derailleurs are exposed and vunerable to being knocked out of alignment or even bent (along with the derailleur hanger), especially if the bike has gone down on the drive side. Your friend's experience sounds like a classic case of a bent derailluer and/or derailleur hanger, which can result in the derailluer being pushed into the spokes and being torn off. Even if it's not far enough over to be torn off, a misaligned derailleur will not function smoothly or quietly.

     LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by John E on 5/20/2003 at 2:14:09 PM
Another thought: try moving the rear wheel back in the dropout.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by Keith on 5/20/2003 at 2:18:29 PM
I've used John's suggestion a few times to fix flutter occuring in when the chain is on the largest cog in the back, using a Campy NouvoRecord rear derailleur with a 14-28 freewheel (the Nouvo Record is rated only to 26t). One of the LeTours I owned had dropouts that were half "filled in" on the drive side, so you had virtually no choice as to where to position the wheel.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by Bryant on 5/20/2003 at 4:51:43 PM
You guys hit it. The chain is new. Let me try shortening it and see if it helps. I checked the derailleur and there is no "B" screw to adjust so hopefully the chain shortening will do it. Thanks!!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   LeTour Rear Derailleur posted by JONathan on 5/21/2003 at 12:11:39 AM
Bravo, Bryant. John E.'s suggestion of moving the axle further back is what solved a lot of "nibbling" on the jockey wheel for me. Those derailer ears are a design that wreaks of potential disaster. Sometimes, I have to actually file/grind the slot of that "ear" to permit the axle to seat more safely into the dropouts. The one thing about the separate hanger is that differnt derailers (almost any) can be adapted with the correct ear, of course, to any bike. THat modularity has little to offset the advantages of the integral dropouts, IMHO. I brazed a dropout onto a 2030 Raleigh frame. However, I recommend a certified person to do that job, as too much heat can weaken the dropout and/or stay-ends. Then you have to repaint to avoid rust, which will start right away on the fresh surface. Nice to hear you got the derailer hanging problem out of the way....JONathan






AGE / VALUE:   Viscount/English posted by: John on 5/19/2003 at 8:27:40 PM
Model number is 632789. I do not know of the year or how much it is worth. It has original color and original aluminum forks in front. It is in excellent condition. The only thing not original is tires. I have some IRC tires on it. Any information will help. Thanks!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Viscount/English posted by David on 5/20/2003 at 2:28:31 AM
Mid 70s probably; top-of-the-line was "Aerospace Pro" with the forged aluminum "death fork" and an interesting crank with big holes in the chain wheel instead of spokes. Frame is fillet-brazed cro-mo without lugs, I believe. I test rode one and liked it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Viscount/English posted by sam on 5/21/2003 at 2:17:42 AM
I'm afraid as of now there is little value for these bikes.The luged ones have a little more value--I say "now" because I feel they have Collector protenial.My guess is at least 15 years before they get hot.






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Ken on 5/19/2003 at 6:47:37 PM
I've noted with interest the threads concerning wheel strength and referencing Jobst Brandt's book. Brandt, Keith Bontrager, Sheldon Brown, and a host of others worked this topic almost to death a couple of years ago; their threads are archived on http://pardo.net/bike/
There's an enormous amount of reading matter there; if you have insomnia, start with
http://pardo.net/bike/wheel/30
and work in all directions.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Chris on 5/19/2003 at 8:10:08 PM
I know that I myself have worked some of these topics beyond death!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Wings on 5/20/2003 at 6:28:52 AM
Bontrager has done a lot of interesting things!
Thanks for the post!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Rob on 5/20/2003 at 5:36:41 PM
Thanks for the link...looks like a little goldmine of interesting material!!!






MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by: Ron on 5/19/2003 at 2:29:55 AM
Has any one ever done this? I bought an old AMF three speed last summer for $2. It was pretty rusty, so I stripped it and painted it with krylon. I don't feel guilty, because it's only an AMF. Then it looked pretty plain, with no names on the frame, so I bought some fancy vinyl letters and created my own bike company. It is now a "Vigile Del Fuoco Pompiere."


   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Wings on 5/19/2003 at 6:08:39 AM
Oh No!!! I just bought one of those for $300 !!!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Dave on 5/19/2003 at 1:48:49 PM
My first complete bicycle rebuild was a AMF 10-speed that I painted w/Krylon fire-engine red about 19 years ago , I spend 6 weeks on it only to have it stolen,so I never got to give it a name...

   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Keith on 5/19/2003 at 1:51:18 PM
I've done this. I have my old Peugeot track bike, which was repainted, and used vinyl letters and it's now an "Eidolon." My Dawes fixed gear lacked a headbadge, so I took a nice brass enamel badge from an otherwise trashed Dunelt, and put it on the Dawes. Hey, at least they're both English and both begin with D. A friend of mine made a nice single speed out of a Nishiki, and put an over-the-top skull headbadge on it. Goes nice with the moustache bars.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Dave on 5/19/2003 at 1:53:30 PM
Cambria bikes sells those skull headbadges,they do look cool.

   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Gralyn on 5/19/2003 at 4:06:26 PM
But seriously, I think that if you search the archives here - you will probably find some good information on decals. I think what you need is the label, or decal stock - then with your computer, and maybe some software - I don't know - you could produce your own decals. I can't remember any details - I would have to look in the archives also. I have a couple bikes I would like to make decals for at some point in time.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Dave on 5/19/2003 at 7:13:09 PM
Try http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_AT_LLOYDS/ they have an excellent selection of decals,although mostly for British makes.

   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by sam on 5/20/2003 at 1:21:55 AM
check out www.beldecal.com they use to have a page on how to do your own water slide decals.

   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Jimbo Jones on 5/20/2003 at 8:24:09 AM
Yep. Iv'e got an old sears beater that says ACME on it. ( you know, that company that sells all the neat stuff to Wile e Cyotee )

As of yet no one I have met has got the joke.

Also concidering a sticker that says " Chucks bicycle world" as in the shop that sold Pee Wee his bike.

On a simular note I saw a very authenitic looking green StingRay called the Booger Picker.

   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Ron on 5/20/2003 at 10:49:29 AM
I didn't want to put an established name on the bike, unless it was so obvious that no one would accuse me of trying to pass off a fake. I knew a guy who was trying to find a set of Huffy decals for his custom frame. He knew that bike people would get the joke, and that it may ward off a potential bike thief. Unless you've got some special ink, computer printing doesn't last very long in sunlight. My wife is into scrapbooking, and they always worry about the archivability of stuff. The letters are made for scrapbooks so they should last awhile. I just wanted something to fill the empty space and the letters were only a couple dollars.
By the way, Pompiere and Vigile Del Fuoco are Italian terms for volunteer firefighters.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Gralyn on 5/20/2003 at 12:04:39 PM
I had thought of making custom decals to put on a re-painted frame....but then I thought....I didn't make that frame....and the frame is really attributed to whoever made it to begin with - so I thought - it's probably not ethical to do that. But, I certainly would want to re-create the decals for what it was to begin with. Then I thought....make the original decals - but add the "Graly Edition". Or heck, really, make anything you want - so long as your not trying to pass it off as something it's not. I like the ACME thing!

   RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Keith on 5/20/2003 at 2:14:11 PM
Ethics-wise I agree that unless you're trying to pass a Windsor off as a Cinelli or something like that, if you own it it's your's to mess with as you please. One of the posts reminds me that an '84 all Campy Cannondale I bought (rescued) from a messenger had Huffy decals on it, I suppose as a cheap form of theft deterent.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Creating new bike labels posted by Wings on 5/21/2003 at 6:05:23 AM
Jimbo --
I got it! ACME was big when I was a kid!!! Every cartoon seemed to use it! They made lots of fire works and other equipment for road demolition!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Handlebar Tape posted by: Robby on 5/18/2003 at 9:28:27 PM
I have a mid 60's Bianchi Road bike. What Handlebar tape did they use in the 60's, was Cello tape out yet? If not what would be the correct tape for the handlebars?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Handlebar Tape posted by Dave on 5/19/2003 at 1:51:35 PM
Judging from 60's bike I've seen on E-bay and @www.classicrendevous.com I would say black cloth tape, cello tape was more of from the 70's/80's.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Handlebar Tape posted by Rob on 5/20/2003 at 5:38:32 PM
Have a look at this link:

http://www.mindspring.com/'d.g1/shellac.html






AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by: ERIC HOLM on 5/18/2003 at 3:17:05 PM
I HAVE A 1959 OR 1960 AMERICAN FLYER. TRYING TO FIND OUT IS AMERICAN FLYER THIER OWN COMPANY OR IS IT A PRODUCT OF ANOTHER MANUFACTURER AND HOW CAN I FIND A CATALOG OF AMERICAN FLYERS OF VINTAGE BIKES.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by DannyJoe on 5/20/2003 at 12:14:49 AM
I can't swear buy it but I was told American Flyer was a product of Western Flyer bicycle's. Seen one restored the other day and I asked the owner about it's origin, he told me it was a Western Flyer line of bike's.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by John on 5/20/2003 at 1:15:30 AM
I had an American Flyer 10 Sp that was beyond hope that I trashed last week. I kept the head badge which is black with "silver" highlights of eagle and American Flyer logo over a stylized earth. The bike was stamped made in Japan and was a real hunk of iron. I also have an old middle weight coaster brake bike with a head badge that says "American Flyer, Precision Built." The guy I got it from says claims it was made by the toy train company, but I've had no proof either way. Anybody know more about American Flyer Bikes?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by David on 5/20/2003 at 2:35:43 AM
I've got a Japanese "American Flyer" 10-speed mixte in the garage. I bought it for my wife in 1977 in Silver Spring, Md. I believe it was a Mel Pinto import. It was a good value, $200-something, with aluminum rims, cotterless crank, Suntour components. The "American Flyer" name, though, seems destined to pop up over and over in all sorts of unrelated contexts!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by Tom on 5/20/2003 at 2:50:21 AM
Archived threads in the balloon tire section indicate that the American Flyer name was owned by the Lipski brothers. Apparnetly the bicycle manufacture was subcontracted to various companies including D.P. Harris Mfg., Cleveland Welding and Schwinn. Another name I have seen on American Flyer badges is Louisvile Cycle & Supply Co., though I'm not sure if this is Lipskis' company on another subcontractor.

Though it seems a logical fit,I'm pretty sure the A.C. Gilbert Co. of American Flyer trains and Erector toy fame is not involved. I'm also an avid AF train buff and have never seen bicycles mentioned in Gilbert literature. Gilbert bought the American Flyer train line from W.O. Coleman of Chicago, in 1938. There's no mention of a bicycle line as part of the deal.

I've also seen ads for recent AF bikes, with Ti frames. I'd be surprised if there's a connection, but you never kow!

Perhaps a posting in the balloon tire section would yield more history, as the brand's emphasis seemed to be in that area.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by Jimbo Jones on 5/20/2003 at 8:41:51 AM
Damn it how do you repy to the message you want to repy to!

Oh well this reply is to David. Does this lightweight have olympic rings on the headbadge? Nervex styled lugs? I've got one of thoses and I love it. Not exactly the best of lightweights or light as far as that goes but very good craftmanship and quite pretty.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   AMERICAN FLYER posted by David on 5/20/2003 at 10:51:57 AM
The headbadge on the mixte AF mentioned above is like John's (in the second posting) w/an eagle and "globe" with lat/long lines on it. It's a plain steel frame, but strong, and attention was paid to detail in its construction. I think it's a good example of just how good the cheap Japanese bikes were in the 70s. No wonder the French and English makers lost market share.