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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







MISC:   Difference on Mercier Models posted by: Linda on 7/24/2003 at 9:45:53 PM
Any one know the difference between a 100, 200, 300 on a mid 70's Mercier.


   RE:MISC:   Difference on Mercier Models posted by Tom on 7/25/2003 at 1:02:06 AM
Model 100 was the Rally Sport which was an entry sports model. It was roughly equivalent of a Peugeot UO8. Steel frame, steel clincher rims with aluminum hubs, steel cottered cranks, Mafac brakes, Simplex Prestige derailleurs.

Model 200 was the LeMans Club which was the entry level competiton bike. It was equivalent of the Peugeot PA10. Lightweight steel frame (Alleges tubing), aluminum tubular rims on Normandy aluminum hubs with quick release, steel cottered crankset, Mafac brakes, Simplex Prestige derailleurs.

MOdel 300 was the Ultra Road Model which was a mid line competition model. It was roughly equivalent to the Peugeot PX-10. Reynolds 531 double butted frameset, aluminum tubular rims on Normandy aluminum quick release hubs, Stronglight cotterless cranks, Mafac brakes, Simplex Prestige derailleurs.






AGE / VALUE:   marquis posted by: don james on 7/24/2003 at 2:14:39 AM
i have a woman's light weight [looks like english made....maybe 60 ish]...i don't know much about bikes except that i should have taken better care of my old shwinn...

the name of this bike is 'marquis' i can't find any brand name on it and i can't find marquis listed in any of the searches...

who can shed some light


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   marquis posted by don james on 7/26/2003 at 8:26:57 PM
400,000 hits a week and no one can tell me anything about this marquis bike?????? i even sent an inquiry to the u.s. bike museum and they have asked for a pic....maybe i'll get lucky......






AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 7/24/2003 at 12:31:27 AM
Anybody who has information on the brand of cycle called:
C. ITOH
bicycle please e- mail me or post a message here for the benefit of the group. Thanks!

This is a Japanese brand if I am not mistaken.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Ian on 7/24/2003 at 9:57:37 AM
It is definitely a name I remember from back in the 70's or 80's but it would be much more help if I could remember why I remember it! I have the feeling they were a large conclomerate company with connections to industrial manufacture or distribution of chains or bearings or similar and I too thought they were Japanese. Will post again if I can find any old literature. Cheers, Ian.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Bryant on 7/24/2003 at 10:59:57 AM
Check on Sheldon Brown's website. His remarks were less than lukewarm on the C. Itoh brand. Enough so that whenever I see one, I'll just pass it by

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Tom on 7/24/2003 at 12:30:11 PM
C. Itoh & Co. were the North American distributor for Bridgestone bicycles during the 1970's. Consequently, I would assume that a C. Itoh bicycle is manufactured by Bridgestone. During the 1970's, Bridgestone marketed their own line under the Kabuki label. The line-up was a little eccentric for the then staid bicycle industry, featuring such avante-garde characteristics as aluminum and stainless steel frames and disc brakes.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by gary m on 7/24/2003 at 8:12:16 PM
yes they did make a strange bike like that, as i have a Kabuki or whatever bridgestone here with disk brake

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Randy on 7/24/2003 at 10:18:17 PM
Probably not the kind of information you mean, but there is one at the landfill site. The frame is broken at the head tube lugs but it is all there. Real fancy lug work. Other than that, I know nothing except I am not interested in the bike, or one like it, for myself. I have too many nice ones to take care of and ride already. Of course, there is that next treasure just waiti...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Chris on 7/24/2003 at 11:20:07 PM
Thanks Guys. The name C. Itoh stands for somebody. Who and how he got his name onto the bike is something we will never know.

I saw one on vacation recently. Brown and with some measure of lugwork. The owner was happy with the bike and it was...
"Not for sale"

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Walter on 7/25/2003 at 1:18:19 AM
C. Itoh is a Japanese trading company. While in grad school (late 80s-early 90s) I remember the computer room having a C. Itoh dot matrix printer. Itoh did not make the frame. I've heard of Bridgestone involvement before but have no idea. Sheldon Brown does dismiss them out of hand and I'd certainly defer to him though I've heard others say they've seen decent ones.

That printer is the only Itoh product that I can recall seeing. Worked OK if that helps at all. :)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Information sought: C. Itoh posted by Tom on 7/25/2003 at 1:58:06 PM
I think Sheldon missed the boat on this one. His comment that Itohs were "pretty crummy bikes" is paramount to saying that Schwinns are pretty crappy (pun intended). We all know that Schwinn made an entire line-up of bikes and that the low end stuff was far removed from the Paramount line. Well, the C. Itoh bikes were the same. The low end models were the found in department stores and are probably the source of S.B.'s comment. However, they also made some very nice bikes that were serious competition for the Nishiki Professional and Fuji Finest. That is to say, double butted Cr-Mo frames, forged Sugino cranks, Suntour V-series deraillers, very nice tubular wheels, etc.

Before I'd dismiss any bicyle based on a 2nd party comment, I'd take a close look and make my own assessment, based on my personal requirements. Besides, if you looked at those low end bikes based on their design guidelines, intended use and target cost, they probably aren't so "crummy" after all.






AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN HEADSETS posted by: kbcurvin@aol.com on 7/23/2003 at 8:45:05 PM
Hi all. I need some advice on the purchase of several headsets for my Schwinn bikes. I need to know the differences between the Chicago built bikes like the Super Sport/Continental bikes, then onto the LeTour/Voyageur 11.8 bikes. What so I look for? Sizes? Advice needed please. Thanks, Kevin


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN HEADSETS posted by JONathan on 7/23/2003 at 11:39:31 PM
FWIW, I haev both "Chicago" and "import" Schwinns. The imported varieties are either Japanese (Panasonics) or Taiwanese (Merida or Giant) which seem standard in all respects. The USA Schwinns appear proprietary design, which means either a conversion kit or NOS is about what I would expect. There were kits to convert the Super Sports and other "hand-builts" BB to ISO standard, I believe. That doesn't help with the headsets, but thgere may be a kit for that, too. Good luck finding some NOS. Working on headsets isn't easy stuff. The precision is demanding of careful work with special (expensive) tools from what I've learned. I've messed with a few and got lucky, but I recommend a pro do work on fixed races on the head-tube. If you needed just one, I think you could find a bike that has a good set, but "several" would be a stretch using the thrift stores and garage/rummage sale source....JONathan

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN HEADSETS posted by Chris on 7/24/2003 at 12:36:32 AM
The caged headset races. Do not bend them. Do not handle them except with extreme caution. They bend easily and then you loose a ball bearing and it rolls away and you are up a tree.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN HEADSETS posted by Kevin K on 7/24/2003 at 1:29:46 AM
Hi. No Chris, that's with the headset I'm looking to replace on the Voyageur.8. The bearings are each seperate. When I pulled this apart, they went everywhere. Probally high quality but a royal pain to work with. Kevin

   caged bearings posted by John E on 7/24/2003 at 1:47:50 PM
I always replace caged ball bearings with loose bearings, particularly because most cage systems reduce the number of bearings one can use, thereby increasing spot pressure on the races. (With tapered roller bearings in a mountain bike headset, one has no choice but to keep the cages.) I also advocate replacing the balls themselves on every second or third overhaul, because they really do tend to elongate under stress.

Properly maintained high-quality races are quite durable -- I still use the original 1959 Agrati BB cups in the Capo and the original 1971 cones and races in my Campag. Record hubset.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN HEADSETS posted by Tom on 7/24/2003 at 5:35:04 PM
Headset installation and compatibility is such a complex matter, that unless one has the proper measuring and installation tools, the job should be left to an experienced shop mechanic. The fork crown and head tubes of a bicycle are precision milled to ensure proper alignment and tightness of fit.

Ideally, one wants obtain an exact replacement headset. While I do not have first hand knowledge of the Schwinn vintage models, it is my understanding that they usually employ a Schwinn Standard, Schwinn Deluxe or Schwinn Approved headset. Exceptions are modern and/or upper end Schwinns, particularly the Paramount line which use name brand headsets.

Assuming that you cannot get an exact replacement from your LBS, you will have to take measurements off the existing headset. To do this with sufficient accuracy you will require a caliper capable of measuring to 0.1 mm. Since the post concerns Schwinns, for reference I will include the published dimensions for the 3 Schwinn headsets using the following abbreviations; SS = Schwinn Standard, SD = Schwinn Deluxe, SA = Schwinn approved).

There are six critical parameters that must be met when replacing a headset.

1. Thread Standard: This is usually stamped on the top of the locknut. There are seven common thread standards for headsets. The thread standard for most American bicycles is 1" x 24 TPI (25.4 mm x 1.058 mm). This is the same as English/BSC. ISO threading is also 1" x 24 TPI and is compatible, even though the thread profile is slightly different. Italian threads also have a 1" x 24 TPI form, but utilize a different thread angle. Slight thread damage will result, but the combination will work in low stress applications such as headsets. NOTE: Mixing English and Italian threads should be avoided in high stress applications such as freewheel and hubs, particularly when strong/heavy riders are involved.

2. Stack Height: This is the overall height of the headset minus the locknut lip thickness. Stack height can be measured with the headset in place, or removed. To measure in place, unscrew the locknut and measure from the bottom of the fork crown race, to the top of the fork column. Subtract the length of the head tube from the previous dimension to determine stack height.

To measure with the headset removed, butt the crown of the fork against the bottom of the head tube. Measure the length of the steering column protruding from the top of the head tube to determine the stack height.

The advertised stack height for the new headset should be no more than 2mm longer than the measured dimension , to ensure sufficient thread engagement. In the event that the new headset has smaller stack height, it can be accommodated by user extra spacers. Do not forget to make the necessary compensation if your set-up uses a brake hanger for centre-pull brakes.

Schwinn headset stack heights: SS = 36.9 mm , SD = 36.7mm, SA = 41.8mm

3. Crown Race Seat Diameter: This is the inside diameter of the bottom headset race that sits on the fork crown. It is an interference fit with the fork crown seat, so the size must be correct. Most headsets have the diameter stamped on the bottom of the headset race. If not, you must measure it or the diameter of the crown seat. Ideally, the diameter of the race should be 0.1mm (0.004") smaller than the diameter of the fork crown seat, but it will work for up to 0.2mm (0.008") smaller. If it is any smaller, the crown race may crack when driven on and fork crown seat will have to be milled down.

Schwinn headset crown race seat diameter: SS = 26.4mm, SD = 26.5mm, SA = 26.4mm

4. Upper and Lower Pressed Race Diameter: This refers to the diameter of the flanges on the races that are pressed into the top and bottom of the ahead tube. Like the crown race, this is an interference fit. Ideally, the diameter of the flanges on the pressed races should be 0.2mm (0.008") larger than the inner diameter of the head tube., but it will work for up to 0.3mm (0.012") larger.

Schwinn headset pressed race diameter: SS = 32.6, SD = 32.6mm, SA = 30.1mm

5. Lockwasher Style: Lockwashers can have tangs or flats that mate with a groove or flat on the steering tube. Schwinn branded headed use tangs. In the event that the new headset has the wrong style lockwasher you can utilize the old lockwasher, but make sure to compensate for changes in stack height. Normally lockwasher thickness does not vary enough to cause a problem,unless the stack height is marginal.

6. Locknut Hole Diameter: Normally this is not a problem, but there are certain cases where a stem may be too large to fit into the hole in the locknut.

Schwinn locknut hole diameter: SS = 21.3 mm, SD = 21.3mm, SA = 21.2mm

Provided you can match the above parameters, the new headset should install properly. Please note that if your bicycle has a name brand headset other than Schwinn, the quoted reference dimensions may not apply. There are too many possible combinations to list them all here. You will have to take measurements or consult the manufacturer’s literature. Perform all measurements at least twice, to ensure they are correct. If in doubt, take it to the LBS!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Eddy Merckx dating posted by: Walter on 7/23/2003 at 5:32:17 PM
A bit of a mystery that, since I'm off for the summer, I've been trying to solve. I've been thinking for awhile that I'd like to find a vintage Merckx if one at the right price came along. Have been communicating with people like Chuck Schmidt who told me that Merckx began importing under his own name in 1980. Prior to that the English marque, Falcon had EM models.

There's a LBS here (the only one) and the guy has a few NOS roadies and I've known he has an old Merckx. I dismissed it earlier as a Falcon EM model but since I was nearby getting a haircut I stopped in. I bought some handlebar wrap I've been looking for and I guess since I was spending some money the guy was willing to talk abit.

Pulled the EM down and began to reassess my original evaluation. It has the decals on the headtube like some eBay and current bikes, the initials and the rainbow stripes. On the seattube are 2 decals commemorating the 49second Kilometer in Mexico and most importantly both the fork crown and seat stays are engraved "Merckx" in a flowing style of print. Gruppo is N Record and the rear der. is marked as a 1973. Wheels are sew-ups. Rear rim is a Wolber Super Champion (not original I'm pretty sure) and the front is a Mavic Champion du Monde (original?). A few other parts swaps but the N Record is largely complete. Silver color like the one on the CR site but not nearly as clean.

Figured the frame decal would help but, of course it's missing. There's a pretty clear square of clean frame where it used to be and the old Columbus decal is not that big. A old Reynolds 531 might fit. Frame has braze ons for shifters and over the BB cable routing but is not fit for recessed brakes. This is an older bike. LBS guy said he got it from some "old guy" awhile ago. Lug work is nice, though plain. Didn't see a serial# right off but didn't look at the bike inch by inch.

If Falcon engraved their Merckxs then it's an easy mystery, if not my gut is telling me this is a pre1980 bike. Could it have come from Europe? Old bikes present mysteries sometimes and now I find myself pondering old Eddy Merckxs. Fortunately as a teacher I have summers to spend my time this way.


   Addendum posted by Walter on 7/23/2003 at 5:40:26 PM
My post might give the impression the EM is a NOS bike. It's not. It's well used and would need extensive cleaning. The N Record group is largely intact though.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Eddy Merckx dating posted by Chuck Schmidt on 7/23/2003 at 9:49:36 PM
Walter, I think you misunderstood what I said. Eddy Merckx opened a factory next to his house in Belgium a little before 1980 with the help of his friend Ugo De Rosa. His first catalog is from 1980.

Judging by your description of decals and engraving, the frame is a Merckx-built Eddy Merckx from around 1980 that was bought as a frameset. It would be built with Columbus SL tubing (check for spiral ribs in the bottom of the steerer tube).

Note: I have seen Eddy Merckx frames from this period with the fork ends engraved "De Rosa" but I assume that the parts were from the period when Ugo helped Eddy set up his shop, and not a frame built in Ugo's shop for Eddy Merckx.






MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by: Bryant on 7/23/2003 at 11:12:48 AM
What is going on. I keep track of bikes on eBay, especially if I own one like it. Well this is the second Kool Lemon Varsity that has gone for over $75 in two weeks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3618596316&category=7298&rd=1, This one went over $150. FOR A VARSITY!! What are these people thinking?? Well if anyone is interested I would be willing to part with mine for the low price of $100.


   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Gralyn on 7/23/2003 at 11:55:27 AM
It's weird how things go on e-bay - you just never know. One week, a particular bike my sell for $250....then another week, in identical...I mean identical....bike might go for $50. I have a beautiful Raleigh Technium Aluminum in excellent condition on there right now....it's not doing so hot...not at all. I'm thinking - maybe I should have just tried to sell it in a yard sale. I had advertised it in a local paper - for about $200....I got several calls on it...but no takers.

Yes, I have a varsity, too. Maybe I should get it out and clean it up - and list it on e-bay. It may certainly do better than what I currently have on there.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by JONathan on 7/23/2003 at 5:31:07 PM
I have always considered the Varsity a fine bike to upgrade to a robust commuter, yet with the added bonus of collectibility...much like the Ford Model A's. Decades of attrition have made them a rare find. A big chunk of history is the Varsity. What would it take to get the likes of them back in production? I sure don't spot any in the usual outlets anymore. They are becoming rare, in my observation. Look at what was said about them, just a couple years back. I say; "Go with what you like...it's probably correct". Listen politely to what is espoused, but decide for yourself, what counts....JONathan

    Schwinn Varsity posted by John E on 7/23/2003 at 7:59:03 PM
I read somewhere that today's metals would make a sturdy, truly lightweight electroforged frame possible, but Schwinn scrapped all of the tooling long ago.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Dave on 7/23/2003 at 8:15:26 PM
Amazing!I would think that the fact the Varsity hasn't been built for over 20 years one reason there is less out on the road , even though they were built in such large numbers. I'm finding the durability of them for great for commuting,I've not snapped a frame or crankarm like on MTB's I've used for commuting in the past. Some kids the other day commented on my "Old Fashioned" bike, which is 39 years old and still going strong.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by JONathan on 7/23/2003 at 10:31:36 PM
Yes, the capital outlay that would be required to restart production may be off the feasibilty charts, but who can say for sure. I guess it would depend a lot on the model. If the goals were long term and the demand takes off, it could work, I think. There would need to be significant increases in commuters on bikes. Looking around here, I can't see that happening anytime soon. I have seen an increase in commute ridership, but this is a very "bike-friendly" community.
As for their durability? I can't imagine the level of abuse that could break one in normal service. It ain't gonna happen, IMHO. I'm sure someone has a horror story about one coming apart while riding. For reasons that escape me, their massive attributes have been interpreted as "negative" features, IMHO. For us who hunt for Varsities, this has been good. We found them everywhere, and cheap; maybe for free. They have been "rediscovered", I think, which may explain what we are observing.
Like; "Where are those $7 Varsities"?! I haven't spotted one around here for a year. Happy hunting!...JONathan

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by PLavery on 7/23/2003 at 10:36:36 PM
If a Varsity went for $150, I wonder what my 1975 Continental would bring ! Must be a lot of flatlanders out
there bidding .

     Schwinn Varsity posted by John E on 7/24/2003 at 1:55:15 PM
The Varsity has obvious deficiences, such as excessive rotating and static weight, a nonresponsive fork, half-inch pedal threads, and ineffective brakes, but it is indeed arguably the most reliable road bicycle ever made. In ease of repair, it is the 1960 VW Beetle of bicycles.

My previous daily commute included a half-mile 12-percent grade. After a few months, I replaced my 1974 Varsity with Peugeot UO-8 of comparable vintage, only to crack a chainstay four years later. I do not believe the Varsity would have suffered this fate.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by gary m on 7/24/2003 at 8:18:18 PM
i have a near perfect Techmium setting here in my shop
price has gone from 175 and is now at 90 looks new. is tough to beat the shiny crap from walmart. people will buy a pound of dogshit because its cheaper then cherries.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Threading Rear Derailleur Cable posted by: Rich Tong on 7/23/2003 at 6:14:40 AM
I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 1985 Trek 560 and got it new derailleur cables. Big mistake was removing the rear ones since they thread through the rear chain stay.

Does anyone know how to get new derailleur cable in there. I can get it into the forward part of the chain stay, but have no idea how to fish the cable out the back. Any help would be much appreciated. Lots of Trek's got made with this hidden rear derailleur feature, but I can't figure out how to rethread it. Thanks!

Skip over at Vintage Treks, thought maybe somehere would know the answer


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Threading Rear Derailleur Cable posted by Bryant on 7/23/2003 at 11:08:34 AM
Hey Tom, I have a 1987 Trek 560 and ran into the same problem. A friend of mine told me to try to run the cable housing through first and see if that does it. If not, run a scrap piece of cabling with a string attached to it. The idea is to run the scrap cable though the chain stay and pull it through to get to the string. Then attach the string to your new derailleur cable and pull it through that way. As long as the string and scrap cable is long enough, you shouldn't have a problem. Good Luck !!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Threading Rear Derailleur Cable posted by Smitty on 7/24/2003 at 2:31:56 AM
You also might try some mechanics wire or bailing wire

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Threading Rear Derailleur Cable posted by Rich Tong on 7/31/2003 at 4:30:04 AM
Thanks much for the advice. I'll try both of these angles. The scrap piece of derailleur, I'm not sure I completely get and there is absolutely no way to fit a housing into that tiny hole. It is barely big enough for the derailleur cable.

I like the bailing wire idea. I will probably have to take the bottom bracket out since the entry whole is *not* a straight shot to the exit.

This is a great forum. Thanks much for your ideas!






AGE / VALUE:   Feels good posted by: sam on 7/23/2003 at 2:37:29 AM
Found the correct style rat trap pedals to compleat the 30s Pierce racer yesterday.Feels kinda nice to compleat a project.Now if I could only finish the 5 other ---I nean 6 other bikes I got in verious stages -----sam(before I get another one)







AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by: dafydd on 7/23/2003 at 2:18:26 AM
What do you think he could've gotten, if their opening bid was reasonable, and they knew what they were talking about?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3619356551&category=7298


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by Tom on 7/23/2003 at 11:58:57 AM
Frankly, this bicycle is only valuable as a donor bicycle for the NR parts. The value for the frame has been substantially depreciated, not just by the repaint, but by the fact he had the several of the original fittings removed (under top tube cable guides/stops, stay brake cable stop) and had modern fittings put in place (top of top tube cable guides, water bottle bosses, shift lever bosses). The wheels also appear to be non-original Given the value of an International on the market and the cost to restore this one, it wouldn't be worth more than a couple hundred bucks. Of course, this all assumes it's actually a 1974 International, but he's supposedly got the paperwork, so you'd think that he has at least got that correct! He'd get more selling the parts individually.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by Gralyn on 7/23/2003 at 12:01:26 PM
Why do people do this? Do they feel it's kind of like playing the lottery?....like, maybe someone out there just might, by some remote chance....actually pay that for it? Maybe there are other factors here - that I am not aware of.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by Dave on 7/23/2003 at 3:17:31 PM
I rebuilt a Coppi of similar vintage w/Campy NR/NR Gran Sport parts;the refinish included re-decaling, the bike has mostly original parts and total cost was still less than $900. The International isn't even Raleigh's top line model,(that was the Professional) and that price is way to high.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by David on 7/23/2003 at 8:42:31 PM
Clearly, someone told him it was V-A-L-U-A-B-L-E!! I'm surprised they told him that Reynolds 531 was aluminum, though, and not gold.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by Tim W on 7/23/2003 at 11:13:20 PM
I responded to an ad for a 'hand-built aluminum road bike' once, and found a '70's db 531 Raleigh Competition. When I told the owner that it was not aluminum, he lowered the price by half (to about 3% of what the International's 'first bid' price is). Maybe someone should let this fellow know the bike is 'just steel'.

P.S. - That mistaken ad started my vintage road bike passion. I still have the Competition, probably always will ;o)

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by Oscar on 7/24/2003 at 3:56:30 AM
Didja take magnet to it just to be sure?

   aluminum-framed Raleigh posted by John E on 7/24/2003 at 1:58:34 PM
You guys are missing the point -- if this really is an ALUMINUM-framed Raleigh International, then it is a one-of-a-kind prototype and worth every penny of the ante ... :)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Good luck! posted by Tom on 7/24/2003 at 7:37:17 PM
Well, the postee has corrected the description. It's now a "Reynolds 531 Chrome Moly Frame". Technically still not correct, but a but a lot closer than before. Starting bid has been dropped to $1500. Still way to high, but you never know with Ebay.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Another Schwinn for the coillection posted by: Joe Taylor on 7/23/2003 at 1:25:45 AM
Found another older Schwinn at a local thrift store today. Serial number is LU507646, so I believe it is a 1983 model. It is a red woman's frame and has an oval head tube badge, Stem mounted shifters, Positron II rear dr., front freewheel, tubular forks, 27 inch steel rims, and no fenders. From other descriptions and searching the 1979 specs I believe it is a Caliente. The front Dia Comp brake was broken, tires dry rotted, the rear wheel chrome is flaking off, and cables need to be replaced. I thought I might strip it for parts but it rides pretty good. Also hhas a Schwinn approved rear rack. Anyone have any other information? It's a lot lighter than the old Sears single speed woman's frame I picked up a couple of weeks ago.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Another Schwinn for the coillection posted by mark on 7/23/2003 at 11:58:19 AM
joe if you decide to part out the schwinn what are you going to do with the rear rack? thanks mark

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Another Schwinn for the coillection posted by Joe Taylor on 7/23/2003 at 10:08:45 PM
Mark,
I will probably keep the rack as I also have a complete Schwinn World Sport and a Super Sport frame in my collection. I would like to find a smaller frame for my World Sport since the one I have is 25 inches. I need something 21 inches or smaller. My Super Sport frame is 25 inches also so it won't do me any good to swap these frames.
Joe






WANTED:   1985 Trek460 Decals posted by: Robby on 7/23/2003 at 1:00:02 AM
Does anyone have or tell me where I can get a set of decals for a 1985 Trek 460 Road Bike?







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Advice for my Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by: Brent on 7/22/2003 at 4:28:26 PM
I recently purchased a 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer at a flea market. I'm not a collector but, I had a Schwinn Continental when I started serious cycling back in 1974 so this higher quality Schwinn just called to me, and the 26" frame is a perfect fit. It is in very, very good condition. The only thing missing is the pie-plate spoke protector. Even handlebar tape, cables, and tires are either original or replaced with identical Schwinn parts. It's my 4th bike but I'll ride it alot on casual rides in good weather, maybe 1000 miles/yr. I'm tempted to replace the stem shifters and remove the suicide brake levers, and pull off that kickstand to make the bike more ridable. On the other hand, I could add a spoke protector and have a stock bike, which would be pretty cool. Any advice for me?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Advice for my Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by Gralyn on 7/22/2003 at 5:04:25 PM
I don't think the bike will have all that much value....but, it would be a good idea to keep the original parts - so that it could be made an all-original bike....and if you want to make some changes - to make it more road-worthy for yourself - you can....but you will always know you have the original equipment if you want to go back. But really, it's up to you - you can ride it as an original bike...or make some changes...

   Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by John E on 7/22/2003 at 5:19:57 PM
My personal, probably controversial, opinion:
1) Forget the spoke protector. If you do find one in good shape, save it for a future collector who might want to return the bike to its stock condition.
2) Remove and save the 5-speed freewheel. Replace it with an ultra-6 freewheel. (If you already have a 126mm overlock rear axle width, as my 1974 Varsity did, use a 7-speed freewheel.)
3) Lose the suicide brakes. If possible, locate replacement pivots and save the originals.
4) Get a pair of rubber brake hoods, e.g. from CyclArt.
5) Remove and save the kickstand.
6) Remove and save the stem shifters, replacing them with either barcons or downtube shifters. The latter may require a shim.
7) Remove and save the brake pads. (They are dangerously ineffective!) Replace them with KoolStops or equivalent.
8) Remove and inspect the straddle cables on the brake calipers. Replace them if they are getting brittle. (Today's safety tip: I just replaced the 44-year-old original straddle cables on my Vainqueur 999s; the old ones frayed and disintegrated as I gently twisted them to remove them from the calipers.)

   RE:Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by Fred A on 7/22/2003 at 10:55:47 PM
Your Sports Tourer is a bike to be both used and collected. In 1971, this bike was under the Paramount in price. The Paramount and Sports Tourer were made side by side. (Check an article by Sheldon Brown)

I own two, orange and green, both 26'' frames which fit my 6' frame perfectly. The orange has the bar-end shifters which was an option and are marked "Schwinn Approved". Both are all original except for the tires. These are two of my favorite Schwinn's that I own (of 24 Schwinn's that I have) and are highly collectable by Schwinn enthusiasts.

Nice find! Don't bastardize it........just enjoy it!

Fred A

   RE:Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by Fred A on 7/22/2003 at 10:56:53 PM
JUST MY 2 CENTS...........

Your Sports Tourer is a bike to be both used and collected. In 1971, this bike was under the Paramount in price. The Paramount and Sports Tourer were made side by side. (Check an article by Sheldon Brown)

I own two, orange and green, both 26'' frames which fit my 6' frame perfectly. The orange has the bar-end shifters which was an option and are marked "Schwinn Approved". Both are all original except for the tires. These are two of my favorite Schwinn's that I own (of 24 Schwinn's that I have) and are highly collectable by Schwinn enthusiasts.

Nice find! Don't bastardize it........just enjoy it!

Fred A

   RE:RE:Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by Kevin K on 7/22/2003 at 11:56:52 PM
Hey, I have to agree with Fred. There are simply too many bikes that can be had cheaply to build into riders. The Sports Tourer is a hand built frame. Just my opinion, but hand built Schwinn bikes in very good condition have are collectors and should be kept original. It would be different if it were a basket case, but not by the description that you give. Keep it original and find a ? to use and abuse. I also have to give John credit. His ideas are right on. I would just do them on a beater. Enjoy the Sports Tourer, Kevin

   Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by John E on 7/23/2003 at 2:48:24 PM
My admittedly controversial point is simply that this frame is far better than several of its original components. If it indeed deserves to be ridden (and I think it does!), why should it be hobbled with stem shifters, a kickstand, a pie plate, suicide brakes extensions, ineffective brake pads, and only 5 cogs? If you want a parade or show bike, by all means keep it original, but if you really want to see what that "almost a Paramount" frame can do, consider a few judicious fully-reversible upgrades.

This topic has come up several times before, but I am not fanatical about "all-original" equipment. When I worked at Bikecology in the early 1970s, many new bikes went out the door with at least a few equipment changes, such as clincher rims and 14-26 freewheels on PX-10s. My 1959 Capo looks fabulous with its fairly accurate CyclArt reproduction paint and decals, but I do regret updating it with aluminum cotterless cranks, a Campag. seat post, an aluminum Campag. rear derailleur, a modern swing-arm front derailleur, and a 7-speed freewheel, all of which were introduced after the frame was made, but all of which are appropos to its quality.

   RE:Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by Kevin K on 7/23/2003 at 3:39:44 PM
Hi John. Your points are strong, and valid. Not one of my Schwinn bikes are totally original. In fact, the only one I'm going to attempt to keep original is a 1971 Super Sport because of the hand brazed factor. I do agree about the twinn sticks and spoke protector. I've even seen pictures of a Paramount with twinn sticks on it. The strong point, at least in my opinion, for keeping the bike as original as possible is those items were USA made on a USA built bike. With so much foreign metal out there, it's sorta cool to see a real American built bike with USA built pieces on it. Even if they are dated. It's just my appreciation of American built goods when they were really built to last. Kevin K

   made in USA posted by John E on 7/23/2003 at 5:14:36 PM
I know what you mean about "made in USA," Kevin, and Schwinn quality and durability were consistently very high. I really like my red-white-and-blue 1988 Project KOM-10 because it was one of the last American-made Schwinn frames. Of course, almost all "Schwinn" derailleurs, hubs, brakes, and aluminum rims were made in France, Switzerland, or Japan.






MISC:   VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRoads.com on 7/22/2003 at 3:40:22 PM
Here are some answers to the questions we're asked about the upcoming Northeast Bicycle Swap Meet on August 24, 2003 in Bloomfield, CT

Q: Is this swap meet associated with the Larz Anderson Show?
A: No, it is not part of the Larz Show. We set up this swap meet in response to changes in the Larz show. The organizers of this year's Larz show were critical of the past few year's "Flea Market" environment of the swap (using a photo of our shop truck loaded with old bikes as an example of what was _not_ wanted...). The Northeast Bicycle Swap Meet _strives_ to be a flea market environment. Lots of bicycles and parts in all states of condition. Good selection, good prices, free admission, cheap vendor space, food, music, etc.

Q: Can I bring cycles to show and display, but not to sell?
A: Certainly!

Q: It's being held at the New England Musclebike Museum. Does that mean the swap is focusing on Musclebikes?
A: No. It is open to all styles: Antique, lightweight, balloon, roadster, motorized, whatever. Bring what ya got. We have registrations from vendors in all categories.


Directions, registration form and more info at: http://OldRoads.com/swap

Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.
http://OldRoads.com







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Yesterday was interesting posted by: Gralyn on 7/22/2003 at 1:32:18 PM
I thought I would check a few of the usual spots yesterday....because you just never know what you might find...Well, I went into one store.....SHOCKER!!!all the bikes were gone! Empty, void of all the bikes! There were ladies Huffy's, Free Spirits, Old dept. store MTM bikes, even the Nishiki Olympic 12 with crappy steel rims for $35.....but it was gone...All gone.....except for one. One bike alone. I can't remember the name...but it's a Japanese-sounding name....It was $45. I was going to examine it more closely.....when I noticed the "sold" label on it!!!!!What happened? I think..maybe they threw them all out?....but then I thought....why wouldn't they have marked them all down....and they may have sold really quickly. Maybe they did have a sale or something...and someone bought them.

Then later, yesterday - I stopped by the store that had the ladies Schwinn World Sport (steel rims, Star brakes, etc.) for $50. They had the Raleigh Sportif....and it's price was less than half of the Schwinn.

There's another store I may check today - it has been down to nothing but ladies huffy's, free spirits, etc....and a couple dept store mtm bikes for a long time. Will it be void of bikes today?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Yesterday was interesting posted by Randy on 7/23/2003 at 2:38:58 AM
As someone new to this bicycle collection interest, it occurs to me that the best time to find bikes is early in the spring. You know the "spring clean up" thing. I, too have noticed a lull in the action of late, Even so, I had a bit of good luck on the weekend. Picked up a Canadian Peugeot Sprint. It was given to me by a fellow who I give mountain bikes and parts to. The Peugeot is in almost perfect shape. Forty five minutes of work and the bike and I went for an eight to ten mile ride. It is a pearl orange with lime green "Peugeot" on the down tubes. I think it looks great and that is saying something. My favorite color is black. The bike has race gearing, quick release hubs and alloy everything. It weighs in at 21 lbs.(NOTE: I'm sure NASA does not use my miserably untrustworthy method for measuring anythng.) I thought that the bike would be a twitchy ride but I was wrong. It is very stable and goes like stink. As an added bonus, the bicycle came with a spare tube and two tire irons. I will have pictures up on my web page in the next couple of days or so, if anyone is interested.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn posted by: mark on 7/22/2003 at 12:01:14 AM
does andbody know when schwinn made the world sport 10-speed? thank you mark


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn posted by Gralyn on 7/22/2003 at 1:47:33 PM
You may check some of the Schwinn web sites. I'm not sure - but I'm thinking probably early 80's for World Sport. Most of them I have seen - look to be early to mid 80's. Also, I believe most of them I have seen have Chro-Mo frame.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn posted by Ken on 7/23/2003 at 5:22:25 PM
Good call Gralyn. Schwinn Lightweight Data Book
http://www.geocities.com/sldatabook/
shows World Sport beginning in 1979, which is the last year this site covers. Specs are in there.