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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







MISC:   Knobby sewups posted by: David on 3/19/2004 at 12:24:55 PM
I found a pair of new Wolber sewups in the trash with little knobs for tread. If anyone wants them for the price of postage, please email me: beandk "at" comcast.net







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   campy derailleurs posted by: marc on 3/19/2004 at 2:16:20 AM
Went to the local shop to look at the few bits of campy they had. I was tempted by a gran turismo but at 39.00 I thought it was a bit much. They had a set of gran turin derailleurs for 95.00 I've never heard of this model before. Have any of you guys?

Went to a different shop to pick up some tires and saw a new bianchi pista, fully chromed. I know its not vintage but it's still a pretty nice bike. didn't catch the price.


      campy derailleurs posted by John E on 3/19/2004 at 11:12:19 PM
Gran Turismo, Campag.'s first mid-priced touring derailleur, was introduced in 1971 and obsoleted by the Rally in 1974. [Berto, et al.] Berto does not list a Gran Turin, and it is a new one on me, too.






AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by: Gralyn on 3/18/2004 at 6:51:42 PM
I actually bought a Huffy today. Well, I really bought it for some parts. It has a Suntour Blaze allou crankset and Shimano pedals. It had an alloy rear wheel with QR, and a cassette....looked to be smaller gearing....not the typical larger cogs I am used to seeing on the old lightweights. It has alloy stem....and maybe bars. Dia-compe center pull brakes - those typical ones. The front wheel is steel, bolt-on.
The frame is something like a Concourse.....professional. I had seen an old Huffy a couple years ago - which was equipped with alloy components - I thought maybe it was an attempt for Huffy to try to compete with some of the other typical Nishiki's, Schwinn's, etc.


    Huffy posted by John E on 3/18/2004 at 10:43:24 PM
Interesting find, Gralyn. "This is not your father's Huffy."

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by Gralyn on 3/19/2004 at 1:32:40 AM
I began stripping parts off the Huffy: The crankset is Sakai Blaze - not Suntour Blaze. Also, the frame says "fully lugged frame".....I guess that was suppose to sound impressive. 175mm cranks. I only had one set of 175's - and they were oxidized pretty badly. The Shimano 105 pedals look very nice - will clean up and look new. However, one of the toe clips was broken (it wasn't broken the other day when I first spotted the bike - but it got broke as more bikes were shoved on it. I haven't even looked to see what brand the rear rim is - the hub is Normandy.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by David on 3/19/2004 at 12:23:33 PM
Huffy imported very good bikes for a while. Were they made by Carlton? Or ? If it's one of those, I wouldn't strip it, but restore it instead and ride it as a "sleeper."

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by Gralyn on 3/19/2004 at 9:24:43 PM
I'll try to see if I can pick up more details from the frame. It's not very light - that's for sure. I think the bars, and front steel wheel are adding quite a lot of weight - and the frame has no alloy infomation - so it's probably just straight steel.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by marc on 3/19/2004 at 10:20:31 PM
I just saw an old huffy with some "lightweight" decals on it. I forgot what they said just something about it being made with special lightweight materials but they didn't specify what exactly it was made of. I think it was a bad attempt into kinda looking like a reynolds frame as there was one of these stickers on the downtube and two on the forks. It had decent araya alloy rims (the front was true and the rear was the opposite) but crappy no name steel hubs. It had alloy bars too I think. I once a huffy mixte frame, I was tempted to pick it up but the brand turned me off, I know I know you can call me a snob.

Yesterday I also saw a spaulding badged bike. Does anyone have any info on who made these? It was next to a really nice ladies raleigh sprite that I picked up (Pedals, brakes, all marked raleigh. even had a full set of "R" nuts including the cotter nuts"). I picked up the spaulding to get to the sprite when i was shocked at how light it was. Then I noticed the nitto alloy bars, sakae alloy stem, alloy wheels as well. I dont remember the brand of the rims it wasn't weinman but they were made in belgium. I think it was a 12 speed with shimano SIS. It had computer too, don't know if it worked. I might go back for the parts. Wasn't too bad for 20 bucks.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by sam on 3/19/2004 at 10:26:45 PM
Glad you got parts you needed,most Huffys ain't worth nuttin-but huffy did import bikes built by raleigh and moulton.Back in the day huffy was also a respected racing bike --now if I could just find a 1937 cr-mo tubed huffy!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by David on 3/20/2004 at 2:57:15 AM
I've seen some "Spaldings." I guess there's no Spalding involved in its manafacture at all, just rebranding and distribution. I believe some have 531 frames, but who knows who built them!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by JONathan on 3/20/2004 at 3:47:19 AM
I saw a Spaulding MTB at a GW store last year. I recall turning away from it, as it had a cheapo look. That Raleigh "sprite" came in various versions. You could get a 3-speed; 5-speed and 10-speed.
I have a lady's frame 3 speed and a standard frame 10 speed; '79 and '76 respectively. Both made in England witrh 2030 tubes. I ride the 10-speed a lot and it handles great. I take it on fire-trails, too. Very comfortable and I get strange looks when I scoot past MTB's and even some "modern" exotic, light bikes with those tiny tires with half the spokes that a wheel is supposed to have.
Maybe it's that the "sprite" is like a moving exercycle that lets youwork hard with comfort. They were a nice product, IMHO. I have all stock, even the steel wheels and sp brakes that work well dry.
Mine must have been near the end of the line for the English builts. Anybody know when they quit building the "sprites" in Nottingham?
Good rides,
JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I bought a Huffy posted by Gralyn on 3/21/2004 at 2:55:40 AM
I've seen Spaldings in the thrift stores before. My impression of them was that they were just a sporting goods branded bike - and I never saw anything frame-wise, or component-wise that I thought would even put them up with a Schwinn, or Peugeot, or Motobecane, etc. They didn't appear to be anything like a dept. store bike....maybe in-between a department store bike and a schwinn?

   [Hooray for Captain] Spaulding posted by John E on 3/23/2004 at 6:00:27 PM
[Apologies to the estate of Groucho Marx.]

One of my fellow commuter rail passengers had a ca. 1995 Spaulding road bike, which appeared to be (only) slightly better than standard-issue department store fare. For several years, it held up for the short home-to-train and train-to-work segments of his daily commute, but eventually the front derailleur failed, followed by the crankset.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What year was my bike made? posted by: steve aliperta on 3/18/2004 at 2:59:21 PM
My late uncle George loved this bike and here are the specs.
Releigh super course 12 Red butted 531 reynolds tubing. The brakes are weinmann, Suntour shifter,tire size is 700x25c It has a leather seat, serial# is wk9002996, The bike is made in nottingham england at the carlton factory.The bike looks like it almost just came out of the box.If anyone could please tell me if the bike has any interesting history. It`s the best feel lightest bike I ever rode. Thanks for all your help ,Steve PS The year it was made is would be a great help.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What year was my bike made? posted by T-Mar on 3/18/2004 at 3:37:31 PM
Your bicycle appears to have been made in the 11th fortnight (2nd S/N letter = K) of 1979 (1st S/N digit = 9) by the Worksop factory (1st S/N letter = w). The 9 could stand for either 1979 or 1989, but the 12 speed drive would date it as 1979, as the 1989 bicycles are more likely to have been 14 speeds. Also, it very closely matches the catalog description for the 1978 Super Course, which had Weinmann brakes, 700C wheels, SunTour Cyclone derailleurs and a red paint option. The only discrepancy with the info you provided is that the 1978 saddle is listed as suede.

All this info is available on the Retro-Raleigh website. It is a worthwhile visit for any Raleigh owner. http://www.retroraleighs.com

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What year was my bike made? posted by Warren on 3/19/2004 at 2:59:17 AM
The only oddity I see here is that you say it is butted...a 79 Super Course is straight gauge tubes.

There was a short lived generation of true double butted Super Courses that came out in the 80's. Please take a digital pick of the tubing stickers and get back to us. I for one would like to see on the these. You say your bike feels very light...why not weigh it, get on a scale with and without the bike and give us the difference.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What year was my bike made? posted by steve aliperta Super course 12 on 3/19/2004 at 3:08:31 PM
Hi Warren, The bike is at my house in florida, however, I can e-mail you a close up photo I took before returning home to NYC. Please tell me where to send photo. Thanks Steve

   The Bike in the Cellar posted by Chris O~Hara on 4/16/2005 at 8:38:57 AM
I can not find any information about this bike :
Sun (Worksop) Mass Start 100. Any information would be appreciated.
by: 82.38.32.235






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Magneet Bicycle posted by: poguemahone on 3/18/2004 at 3:29:12 AM
Odd find today, an old Magneet (Magnet) bicycle. Certainly low end; I would have passed it by except for the Campagnolo derailleurs/shifters/cable guide (don't get excited; they're just gran turismo, I'm tempted to stick them on a beater, and when some bike snob sneers at my bike, I can say "What are you running, bub? Ultegra? Phah! My bike has campy!"-- but I digress).

The bike itself is made in Holland. What little I've been able to find out about the company is that it was absorbed by Batavius (spelling?) in 1969, so I imagine the bike was earlier than that. Found some old cats and a site online, but they're all in Dutch, and to say my grasp of Dutch is rudimentary would be to seriously overstate matters (which is a fancy way of saying I have absolutely no knowledge of the language). I'm kind of curious about the bike and the company. I'm guessing it's French threading, but haven't checked yet, feel free to disuade me.

The model is a "sprint", it's actually in pretty good shape. If my next girlfriend is the right size, I might fixie it, I dunno (it ain't my size, or I'd be plotting). Also has a cool old Soubitez bottle generator lighting system that works perfectly. Any info on this brand would be appreciated, as I spent five bucks on it and am now quite curious.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Magneet Bicycle posted by T-Mar on 3/18/2004 at 4:13:24 PM
While I have no direct experience with Magneet bicycles, I do have a very small amount of old documentation. After Batavus absorbed Magneet, they apparently continued to market bicycles under the Magneet brand. I have specs for 3 models from 1973. Curiously, they are all named Sprint, with different model numbers. The fact that your model has Campagnolo Gran Turismo derailleurs also supports post 1969 Magneet production, as the this derailleur was introduced in 1970. Most likely your sample is a 1970's bicycle boom model. Campagnolo derailleurs usually have Patent dates with a two digit year code (i.e. PAT 70) that you can use to date the bicycle, assuming that the derailleur is original. On most models this was near the cable housing recess, but I'm not sure on the Gran Tourisimo.

The model info I have is for models similar to the Peugeot A08 & U08. The only curious component is the reference is to Angenieux brakes, which is a brand I am not familiar with. Other models used the popular Weinmann brakes and the not so popular Altenburger brakes.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Magneet Bicycle posted by poguemahone on 3/21/2004 at 3:48:25 PM
Thanks, T-mar. There is no patent date on the Campys I can find, although I'll clean them up in the next week or so, time permitting. This bike is close to my size as an upright, so I may convert it ad make a round-the-neighborhood beater out of it. My understanding is Magnnet made mostly city/commuter style bikes, so it should work well as a single speed errand runner. The brakes are "racer" brand, which looks to me like a mafac knock-off.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Magneet Bicycle posted by T-Mar on 3/23/2004 at 3:35:46 PM
I am familiar with the Racer brand brakes. There was a posting on them not too long ago. Either they are are a cheap MAFAC knock-off, as you state, or MAFAC produced a low end model that they did not want their name directly associated with. I don't believe we got a definitive answer on that one.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Interesting Combination posted by: Wayne on 3/17/2004 at 5:12:17 PM
I've been a real fan of both Vintage Lightweights and English Roadsters for a long time and I have always wanted to combine the best qualities of both in one machine. I am also a Raleigh "nut" with a small collection of roadsters and lightweights.
When Sheldon Brown posted information about one of his Raleigh projects (putting a Shimano Nexus hub on a Raleigh lightweight)on his website he got me thinking about it again.
Then when Harris Cyclery started selling those S-A 7 speed hubs for $69.95, that was the last straw!
I bought one, laced it into a 27 X 1 1/4 alloy rim and built it into a used Canadian 1985 Raleigh lightweight.
In spite of the crummy weather (snow) in Southern Ontario this last week I have managed to put about 20 kilometers on the bike, and I really like it! In fact, I could see it becoming my favourite ride.
One of the things I really like is the way you can easily change the drive sprocket to allow for your preference in cadence. I am a "torque" rider. I don't like spinning and this hub allows me to tailor the gears to my style much better than any freewheel I have used.

Oh yeah, bfore I forget... I have no connection with Harris Cyclery, other than being a satisfied customer.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Interesting Combination posted by T-Mar on 3/18/2004 at 3:49:15 AM
Back in the late 60's, Cyclo sold a kit to convert your 3 speed to a 9 speed, using 3 sprockets and their push rod, rear derailleur. The derailleur was atrocious, compared to the paralleogram derailleurs, but it worked and was an inexpensive option to getting an "almost ten speed". It might be an interesting experiment, to reproduce the concept using a more modern derailleur, like a mid 1980's, friction shifting SunTour.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Interesting Combination posted by paul on 3/18/2004 at 2:16:02 PM
My 1958 Lenton Grn Prix Reg Harris model has an FM 4 speed Sturmey Archer and a 3 cluster along with a Williams single chain wheel up front(12 speed). Originally it had a der' by Cyclo Benelux but sometime in the past previous owner replaced it with a Shimano Titlist from the '70s era. paul

      Interesting Combination posted by John E on 3/18/2004 at 3:52:11 PM
One of the most fun bike transmissions I ever had was on the Hercules commuter I used at UCLA. It had a 14-16-18-20 cluster, 1/8"(!) chain, and standard widerange 3-speed epicyclic hub, giving 12 reasonably-spaced ratios from 40 to 100 inches* with a 40-tooth chainring and 26" tyres. Since the Cyclo piece-of-junk derailleur could not handle all 4 cogs, I replaced it with a Campag. Gran Sport. I tucked the S-A trigger inside the left brake handle and used a single Cyclo downtube lever, to facilitate simultaneous gear changes on both transmissions.

*39 43 49 52 56 58 65 69 74 77 87 99

   RE: Cyclo converter posted by Eric Amlie on 3/18/2004 at 6:40:05 PM
I have one of the 3 cog Cyclo converters for the S-A hubs that I've been wanting to build up. I don't want to use the reputedly dismal Cyclo-Benelux derailleur with it though. I was thinking of using a Sprint(Huret-Alvitt) derailleur(period and brand correct for the bike I intend to use it on). Will a derailleur like this, designed for 3/32" chain handle the 1/8" chain that these cogs require?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Interesting Combination posted by T-Mar on 3/18/2004 at 7:42:03 PM
Many of the early parallelogram derailleurs can handle both 3/32" & 1/8" chain. If it is an earlier Allvit, you should be OK. Even if the derailleur is dedicted for 3/32" chain, you should be able to accommodate 1/8" chain by placing shims between the between the jockey and idler pulleys and the cage plates. This widens the gap between the cage plates, to accommodate the wider chain. You may or may not require longer bolts for the pulley, depending on how much you have to shim.


   RE: Thanks posted by Eric Amlie on 3/19/2004 at 2:57:57 PM
Thanks for your reply T-Mar. I was figuring I would probably have to space the cage sides further apart, but after reading John's post I thought may it would work without doing that. It would save me some monkeying around. I guess I should stop being so lazy and just run an 1/8" chain through there to see if it will fit. This project may be years away yet(I have many in the queue) so I'm in no hurry for the answer.

     Interesting Combination posted by John E on 3/19/2004 at 2:59:13 PM
My 1950s-era Campag. Gran Sport handled the 1/8" chain beautifully, and shims are indeed a viable solution for newer derailleurs. An old SunTour or even a lowly Simplex Prestige should work well in your application.

I have owned both a 3-speed (13-19-25) and a 4-speed (14-16-18-20) conversion kit. I disliked the former because the ratios are too close to the wide-range epicyclic hub's 3/4, 1/1, and 4/3, resulting in copious redundancies and big gaps in gear development. As I commented above, the 14-16-18-20 combination is near-ideal for a wide-range 3-speed hub. The 13-19-25 combination would make alot more sense with a narrow-range 3- or 4-speed hub.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   pictures of my recent work posted by: marc on 3/16/2004 at 3:54:24 PM
Well the bianchi is nearly done for now, just waiting to come across some decals. Same with the fuji finest, and deciding whether or not to paint it. Plus I'm still waiting for a fuji badged front der. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/samadamsfavbrew98/my_photos

There's a link for some pictures. I've got pictures of the super course in its current state as well. Any of you bianchi guys think you can help identify the year of manufacture and model of my bike? It does have a serial number on the head tube but I'm not sure if that will help.


   Bianchi posted by John E on 3/17/2004 at 7:39:06 PM
Last year, I saw a very similar Bianchi at CyclArt; Jim identified it as a 1964, which was the debut year [Berto et al.] for the Campag. Valentino derailleur set. Since the Valentino Extra came in ca. 1967, we MAY be able to peg your vintage to 1964-1966. Unless you have a Columbus sticker somewhere, I suspect your bike is comparable to a Peugeot PA-10 -- straight-gauge carbon steel tubing, cottered steel cranks, etc. By 1964, the high-end full-CrMo Bianchi Specialissimas had Campag. cranks, Campag. dropouts with integral derailleur hanger, half-chromed stays, etc.

   RE:Bianchi posted by marc on 3/17/2004 at 10:02:32 PM
thanks john for the info. I dont see any columbus decals but as you can see many of the decals are gone so i'm not sure if it ever had one. The bike as I have it built up now, all original except for the fiamme wheels with vittoria sew ups, as pictured weighs 22 pounds. I'm not sure if that would offer any evidence towards to quality of the tubing?

Speaking of the bianchi, I decided to take it out for its maiden voyage since I glued on the new tires and well let's just say it was not a very pleasant experience. I had just gotten onto the bike and was riding down my alley (I know this was my first mistake when riding sew ups) I hit a puddle and tried to manuever out of it when the front wheel got stuck in a seam in concrete and thats when I fell. I wasn't going very fast so luckily I was ok and the bike itself was fine. No scratches to the paint, left pedal got a tiny scuff mark. As I was cleaning myself up I heard a hissing sound. That's right, A SMALL PIECE OF GLASS WAS IMBEDDED INTO MY NEW REAR TIRE!!! "So Marc, how long do your sew up tires usually last you?" 'About a block.' I was pretty upset and when i got back to my garage I cursed a bit. The funny thing is, right before I crashed I was thinking about how I forgot to put on the tire savers. Do those things even work? They dont stop you from running anything over, I guess they could help a bit.

Speaking of sew ups, has anyone on the list ever used Tufo gluing tape? it seems to be a god send but I haven't met anyone who has used it and none of the local shops carry it.

   RE:RE:Bianchi posted by workingbikes on 3/18/2004 at 3:51:35 AM
Marc - Yojimbo's garage will fix sew ups for a fraction of what a new tire will cost.

   totally tubular tyres posted by John E on 3/18/2004 at 4:00:07 PM
I had two sets of wheels (clinchers/sewups) for my 1971 Nishiki Competition for about 10 years, but finally gave up tubulars with the advent of reliable, lightweight, sporty, low-profile clinchers, originally from Michelin. I am occasionally tempted to try sewups again on either the Capo or the Bianchi, but so far I am resisting the urge. I am paranoid enough about rolling a tyre off the rim that I would shy away from sticky tape in deference to good old messy glue. I do not miss stitching casings back together, although I did get fairly adept at it.

   tyre savers posted by John E on 3/18/2004 at 4:02:06 PM
In the good old days (early 1970s), it seemed that everyone who rode tubulars used tyre scraper/savers. I think they were somewhat effective, but I have not seen them in years.

   RE:tyre savers posted by JONathan on 3/18/2004 at 5:23:11 PM
I have tried them. It's hard to say if they improved my flat freq. I know one fact about a particularly nasty thorn we called "goat heads" or "deer heads", basewd on their shape. They were all over the coastrange and valleys in N. Ca. If we stopped immediately, even before another revolution of the wheel, after seeing the telltale sprawly source weed on the side of the road, theree was a chance that we could pull it (or them) off without going flat a mile down the road.
My guess is that the initial "pickup" doesn't go all the way through the tire, but that subsequent rotations compress the buggers into the tube. We used to leave them in and usually made it home after a couple pump ups. Removing them, after they've poked through makes the leakage very noticeable. Those tire scrapers may well have saved my tires a few occasions, but I never got lulled into thinking my tires were impervious with those plastic covered wire loops skimmimg over the tops of the tires.
I suppose that anything that doesn't get through on the first hit with tire on the blacktop and which has a high enough profile to get caught by the scraper that they probably work. If we had deer heads all around like in the past, I think I'd put the scrapers back on. They are tricky to adjust and I rarely see any riders using them; if that's a clue. The thorn-proof tires and tubes and tube liners work better, IMHO. They are adding considerable weight to the wheel, which is a point in favor of a scraper that mounts on the brake center bolt.
I would gladly accept the presence of deerheads in exchange for all the cutting material I see (and hit) on the roads. At least the deerheads were only in certain areas that we mapped in and they could be seen by the starfish-like appearance of the brush that produces them. The random displacement of debris is harder to handle. The roads look clean of stuff, it's the bike pathway that weems to resevoir the clutter. Just a few c's.
JONathan
BTW, I can fill my pockets (I do) with all sorts of nasty road junk. Sheetmetal and deck screws are "must gets". If I stopped evrytime I saw something, I'd never get to where I was going.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: pictures of my recent work posted by kevin womac on 3/24/2004 at 5:08:34 AM
Hey marc. I recognize the supercourse etal. the give-away was the fuji front der. you're looking for. I put the new stronglight cranks on your supercourse.
anyway, i sell the tiresavers you mentioned (for all you non-chicago folk out there, ask your LBS to order them from UBP they'll know who). and i know yojimbo's can fix your tire. but it may take some time- we're all very busy this time of year. I remember reading about a service in Florida that fixes sew-ups. i think it has a minimum 2 or 3 tire deal. and it works out to something like 15 bucks a tire, plus shipping to and from. I'll do some poking around for the info and post it here.
ps. i like the bianchi. i saw it at wbc months ago, and am kicking myself for not grabbing it.

   Schwinn Excelsior MTB ( Mountain Bike ) posted by Kevin Basner on 4/14/2004 at 4:15:24 PM
How do you cut the rear fork of the Schwinn Excelsior to fit a rear shock for MTB Bikes on it? I amtrying to mount A Magura Draco Rear Shock to it. How do i go about doing this? Also I am trying to find a rare set of Bullmoose MTB Handlebars. How do I find them? I am converting a retired 1930's Schwinn Excelsior Road Bike into a full-suspension mountain bike using the Schwinn Excelsior frame. How do i do this? How do I add a Magura Phaon Suspension Fork to the front and Magura Gustav M Hydraulic Disc Brakes to it. How do I do this? Also I am going to add a RockShox Suspension MTB Seatpost to the bike? How do I do it? Also, one more question! How do i find a set a used Ritchey K Megabite Overdrive 2.0 Tires for the completed bike? How do I find an NOS ( New Old Stock ) set of theose tires since they don't make them any longer and I love the tread on them. How do i get them? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated!






MISC:   Huret Gallery posted by: Rob on 3/15/2004 at 5:54:54 PM
I was looking for some info on Huret derailleurs and came across this website...thought some of you guys might be interested:

http://village.infoweb.ne.jp/'mikami/hunter/huret/huret.htm

I scored an Eco Duopar rear der. this weekend ($CDN10 which included an '83 date coded Cyclone MK-II rear der. in good shape and a three-pulley XC rear der...'86 (I think) date code.... The Eco Duopar is missing the mounting hardware...bolt and I believe a tabbed washer type piece that allows the pivot bolt adjustment...I'll have to look around a bit to see if I can find this or maybe there's another fix...







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh "record" posted by: JONathan on 3/15/2004 at 5:17:00 AM
My third "record" is a white with orange paint frame with hand brushed black trim around the lugs. It has the early '70's Guret derailer and shifters on DT. I had this bike from a year ago and just now started restoration. I had cleaned it up and touched up the paint before placing it on a peg. Today, I hefted it down and got it on the stand when I noticed the cp brakes are "Altenberger"'s, NOT Weinmann "Vainqueur"'s. I am trying to guess the date. Could it be "pre-bikeboom"?
The stem is the alloy GB with steel drop-bars. BTW, I tried that trick of using a bolt to remove a stubborn fixed cup. It worked great. Thanks, Sheldon Brown for the concept. Using my own interpretation of the trick, I had a 1/2" bolt with nut and a stack of three 5/8" smooth, steel washers and two 3/4" galvanized steel washers stacked on both sides. The thrust washers were used on the inside, closest to the cup. The bigger washers rode on top, not touching the bearing surface. The smaller washers didn't reach far enough to contact the race's bearing track. I was removing the BB assembly from a Raleigh "record" mixte to use on the project "record". I placed the bolt with two big washers on the outboard side of the FC and clamped it in a big bench vise that held the bike frame and bolt. After placing the three small washers inside and two bigger washers on top of those, I attached the nut. Using a 24-inch (Craftsman) 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 3/4" impact socket, I started tightening. After it got real tight (near impossible to move), I removed the breaker bar and began clockwise rotation using the frame as a lever. It was stubborn enough, but it worked great. Note: The vise holding the bolt makes it impossible to remove the cup with the breaker bar. It is used only to get the nut real tight. I tried a socket wrench and the breaker bar in opposition. I stopped when the socket wrench was either going to break my hand or itself. That's when the vise came into the picture. Here's a trick for threading the but; use masking tape to hold the nut inside the socket. The vintage Raleighs are tough to get that FC out. I maen they couldn't use a wrench, with any hopes of success, on that sliver of a shoulder on the FC. Just my 2c's.
Cheers, JONathan


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by T-Mar on 3/15/2004 at 2:55:25 PM
JONathan, if anything, the presence of the Altenburger brakes indicates that it is a "bike boom" model. Altenbrurger were routinely used as substititues by Raleigh when Weinmann could not supply the necessary brakes due the great demand. In fact there was even one year, 1973, when the Altenburger centre-pull brakes were original spec on the Re.cvord. Of course you can always check your serial number against Retro-Raleigh to be sure of the year.

Unfortunately, the Altenburger centre-pull brakes leave much to be desired relative to the Weinmann. However, be thankful that you at least got the centre-pull and not the inferior Altenburger Syncron side-pull brakeset. I remember working in the LBS and seeing these come through on Raleighs, occasonally as high as the Grand Prix. Whenever we saw them when on a particular bicycle, we would steer the customer towards a Peugeot UO8 or Sekine SHB/SHC, knowing that they would be happier in the long run.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by JONathan on 3/16/2004 at 7:25:06 PM
Thanks a lot, T-Mar. That would about seal the date at the mid-'70's. I noticed a couple things about the two bikes' (mixte and reg. frame) lug work. There appears something like a nail poking through the lug and tube at two points. The nail sticks down into the tube about 1/4 inch. It's on all the lugs, too. The purpose of this is a mystery. Possibly it aided in speeding production, but then there were special fixtures to hold the tubes for brazing, I would guess. So, the registration would make the little spikes a redundant feature in construction. Possibly, it helps to secure the tubes from twisting action that might otherwise work the lugs loose over some period of time on the road.
The second feature was a stem by "SR" with the name "JUN" embossed at the bend on either side of the stem. I had not heard of this one. The locking bolt is a regular hex-head that sticks above the stem's peak. The head set had 22 (1/16"?) ball bearings in each race and it looked ,ike there was room for another bearing, maybe even two more in each race. Is this gap in the bearing train a standard practice, or was it simply the bearings were lost during a servicing? I'm replacing all the headset bearings on this bike. The Altenbergers are in great shape, but I'll probably use Vainqueurs in their place. Weinmanns look like a higher quality product, too. Mostly it appears in the finish. The Vainqueurs have a real fine polished surface and very precision articulation of the cast parts.
Thanks for the info. I will catalog it, with my new system, as a mid-'70's Raleigh "record". Most of these seem to have some rust inside the tubes, but this one had zero rust inside the tubes and the forks and steerer are in superb condition. Just a touch of refrigerator enamel on the seat stays will perk the frame up. I like the serviceable nature of these bikes, despite the labor-intensive cottered cranks. Lighter than a "varsity", but heavier than a UO-8 is my take.
Thanks, agin.
JONathan

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by T-Mar on 3/17/2004 at 3:50:10 AM
Frame tubes can be held together pending final brazing by pinning, tack brazing or jigs. While jigs are the most common concept, some framebuilders believe that jigs can create stress as the brazing cools. Consequently they will pin or tack braze the frame. Pinning is common when the assembled frame is brazed in an open hearth. Pinning was also fairly common in some large volume situations. The frames could be pinned using jigs by relatively unskilled labour, then brazed by the skilled craftsman or in a hearth.

JONathan, you don't say if this is a Raleigh headset. If so, 25 or 26 bearings of 3/16" is standard, depending on the headset. Normally, with loose bearings, you use one less bearing than the quantity that appears to fill the race. This ensures that the race is not overfull and the bearings will seat properly and distribute the load equally among themselves. Generally this is not a proplem in cases where fairly large numbers of small bearings are used, such as the frewheel, pedals, headset and front hub. However, in high load situations where you have smaller numbers of large bearings, such as the rear hub and bottom bracket, you want to make sure you put in the maximum number and don't shortchange it by one.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by JONathan on 3/17/2004 at 7:02:32 AM
Opps! Yes, they are 3/16" diameter, Tom. I was thinking of the freewheel bearings. The steerer measures 1 inch in OD. I compared the forkset with a Japanese set; from a Centurion. They are identical, it appears, except for the threads. I can only thread the crown nut a few spins, before it binds. As to its origin. I think it is a Raleigh headset, being that it has the sticker and it came off a Raleigh. The mixte has an indentical forkset in size. The mixte is an earlier bike, I think. The workmanship on the forks looks better. The crown has better brazing touches and it has some shaping to the shoulders. The mid-70's forks are cruder looking, but they have half-chrome. It also has the nail sticking inside the crown opening. As for the numbers. I did not count the bearings off the mixte to compare, but just from visual inspection, there would not be enough space in the race to hold more than 23...24 max. I could easily swap the Centurion into the Raleigh. The Centurion is better quality, anyway. The chrome is heavy and the fittings are cut nicer, with a toothed bearing lock ring and notched spacer. The crown has a chromed cap and the brazing is real solid looking. If I paint the Centurion forks white, I could use it. However, the Raleigh forks are true and authentic. Thanks for the valuable information. Just when I think it's coming together, I discover a new world of questions.
JONathan

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by T-Mar on 3/17/2004 at 1:44:49 PM
JONathan, sorry I misread the lines when I tried to scan across my charts. The bearings are 5/32" diameter, not 3/16". Sounds like a Raleigh thread, so the correct number of bearings is 25. My sincerest apology.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by JONathan on 3/17/2004 at 7:02:58 PM
Thanks, Tom. After reading your post last night, I pried myself up off the sofa and went out to my "shop" for a looksee at those bearings. Call it power of suggestion, but I thought they measured 3/16. That was with a flashlight, which can play nasty tricks with your eyes when trying to get accurate readings on instruments. OK, LSS, I went out this morning and measured again and it was 5/32"...no I wasn't snockered last night! Well, I appreciate the specs. you took time to look up, as I am spooked about headsets. They are tricky little devices of mechanical wonderment. Precision is the word. Now, thanks to your kindness, I can load the correct number (of the CORRECT size) bearings and be on with it. The Raleighs from the "Made in England" era are rewarding bikes to fix up. Nobody is looking for redline performance, just servce and reliability. They fit the bill nicely. I have a few frames, but most have at least some rust inside; especially at the BB. Although it is light buildup, I keep those as "partsers", knowing that that the clean frames free of rust are most likely in need of parts and the rusted frames have some good parts to use. Maybe I can have the rusty frames sandblasted and coated. They may last another 30 years on the road. I could use Japanese parts for those. The great information from the various articles written by Sheldon Brown specifies a lot that can be done to gear these up for good riding. I must admit, I'm getting tough as nails riding that '78 "sprite" everyday. I took the Raleigh "Technium" out a few times this week and couldn't believe that I was in top gear; it felt like 5th! I had to look down to be sure and about then I'd come up to pass a poke.
20 miles a day is nothing, now. 40 is a breeze. If I can get to 50 a day, with no fade, I'll be ready for summer touring. Happy rides and thanks again.
JONathan

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh posted by T-Mar on 3/17/2004 at 9:31:02 PM
The rusting is a drawback of the hi-tensile and even Reynolds 531 manganese-molybdenum tubing. The various chromium-molybdenum tubing is much more rust resistant. I am leery about picking up Reynolds 531 framesets, only to get them home and find that they are deteriorating severely, from the inside.






AGE / VALUE:   NICE Viscount posted by: John S on 3/15/2004 at 4:17:33 AM
Got a Viscount this weekend - a nice one, probably from late 70's. Has a filet brazed frame with a chromed steel fork (definitely not aluminum). Shimano Crane rear derailleur, neat Lambert crankset (TA-like design but big ring has big circle cutouts for a distinctive look). Lambert high flange sealed bearing hubs, Viscount-labeled centerpull brakes. Set up as a commuter with Bluemel fenders and Blackburn rack and bar-mounted watter bottle cage. Panracer 27x1-1/4 commuter tyres. Just a real nice ride.

No model name. I've seen several Viscount's in my day, but did they only make one model??


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   NICE Viscount posted by Walter on 3/15/2004 at 11:45:10 AM
They made several models. Pretty similar frame across the line as I recall with the differences in the components. "Aerospace Pro" was the top liner if memoy serves.

Great bikes at the price point. You could get a 21# bike for '500$, half of a similar weighted Italian and the Japanese derailleurs worked better too.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   NICE Viscount posted by Gralyn on 3/15/2004 at 12:54:30 PM
I have a Viscount "Aerospace". Very lightweight, fillet brazed Chro-mo frame. Came with the same brakes as you describe. The bars and stem were very lightweight. However, the cranks weighed a ton! I currently have mine set-up as fixed-gear. Very nice frame, and very lightweight!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   NICE Viscount posted by Richard on 3/25/2004 at 1:06:37 AM
Does your Viscount have the original fork? (I think they were made of aluminum alloy.) If so, or if you aren't sure, please, please, please do not - repeat, do *not* - ride it without doing more research. If memory serves, "Viscount" was a rebranding of the "Lambert," which featured the infamous "death fork," known far and wide for sudden and often catastrophic failure - not a fun prospect at any speed. Others out there may have a better idea if whether I am right about this or way off base, or if the fork problem got ironed out by the time the "Viscount" name came into use (I don't think so, but again, I am not certain), but better safe than sorry. I have never heard anything about any other part of a Lambert or Viscount being unusually reliable or unusually unreliable, but "death fork" tales are legendary.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   NICE Viscount posted by Stephen Valerio on 3/27/2004 at 12:56:05 PM
I have a Viscount "Aerospace Pro" (with replacement fork)and was wondering about availability of original decals set. Any information appreciated. Keep spinning.

   RE: Viscount Aerospace Pro posted by Stephen Valerio on 3/27/2004 at 1:00:47 PM
I have a Viscount "Aerospace Pro" (with replacement fork)and was wondering about availability of original decals set. Any information appreciated. Keep spinning.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   NICE Viscount posted by Martin H on 4/6/2004 at 8:06:21 PM
I have an aerospace sport, 1 model down from the pro i think. had to replace the fork after an accident. (school bag got cought in the wheel) I think it came with shimano 600 front and rear derailleur, center pull brakes, not sure of much else. It did have a sealed bearing bottom bracket, which was interesting at the time, but i got it threaded to fit a campag chainset. Its Still going 25 years later, but only the frame is still original. How interesting to find you guys interested in the marque!






AGE / VALUE:   1950's-1970's Japanese bikes posted by: John on 3/13/2004 at 9:17:35 PM
If anyone can give me more info on this bike I'd appreciate it: A few months ago I "rescued" from the neighborhood trash a single speed Savoy. It caught my eye because it is a ringer for a classic English racer, i.e. black paint w/white accents. The frame is lugged (although the dropouts are stamped), it has a cottered crankset, and the rear hub is a Shimano coaster brake. The head tube decal states that the bike was made in Japan and was precision engineered. The tires are IRC Guaranty Roadsters (if that's any help in dating it). Thanks for any help you can send my way!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1950's-1970's Japanese bikes posted by Joe on 3/14/2004 at 7:21:37 AM
I had one that I came acrossed about the same way, but it was more like a curved tube type sort of mixte style frame with 26 x 1 3/8" tires and twin top tubes. The headbadge read Savoy, but also read C.M.C., Canada. It believe it was probably early 70's judging by the Bendix 70 'Mexico' hub.
It had similar lug work, the headtube was lugged, the dropouts were stamped steel but the bottom bracket incorporated the lower lugs or extensions. I passed it along to someone who needed a good rider at their summer home.I believe the headbadge was either a decal or a thin rectangular aluminum plate. It seemed to be an ok bike but nothing special. About the same quality as an old Rolfast or Columbia I guess.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1950's-1970's Japanese bikes posted by kevin on 4/1/2004 at 3:10:26 AM
hi,
Friend of mine has 60's classic bike from Japan.Problem is the bike has 22x1 3/4 tires.It seems that the size these days is 22x1.75 but will not fit.Any Idea where to find??Thank you kevin

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1950's-1970's Japanese bikes posted by kevin on 4/1/2004 at 3:11:31 AM
hi,
Friend of mine has 60's classic bike from Japan.Problem is the bike has 22x1 3/4 tires.It seems that the size these days is 22x1.75 but will not fit.Any Idea where to find??Thank you kevin






MISC:   "SY" Freewheel posted by: JONathan on 3/13/2004 at 2:15:08 AM
This is a new one on me. I have a real nice 14-28 freewheel that is stamped; "SY FREEWHEEL" and "Made in Japan" on the bearing keeper ring. I was wondering about what company produced the unit. It came off a CMC 26x1 3/8 chromed steel wheel with "JOY...??" stamped onto the hub housing. It is a 3 piece hub with an outboard extension on the non-drive side. I guess that this was to keep the spoke geometry symmetrical...guessing, here.
I was thinking about using the freewheel on a Peugeot UO-8 (alloy, 27") that is in the works. It would match the "brother" which is the same frame, just a couple inches smaller. I have a new 5-speed freewheel...that is some kind of after-market product, but this vintage one is looking like a better made freewheel. I have kept a few steel rim wheels...one Araya; one Schwinn "s-6"; four Rigida (2 complete sets) that look new and this 26 inch wheel becuase it is able to fit onto a Raleigh "sports" of all things.
Thanks, JONathan


   RE:MISC:    posted by Joe on 3/13/2004 at 9:53:03 AM
I've run acrossed a few of those, they have all been on low end department store type bikes, but I can't say I've ever seen one broken, they resemble a Suntour, but use a slightly smaller tool to remove, I believe the Rigida tool will work. I have a few here that I saved which are bright gold 5 and 6 speeds. The hub sounds like a Joy Tech, these were common in the late 80's and early 90's. They seem to be an ok average quality hub, but a little new for the UO-8 if your trying to stay all the same vintage. I've seen "SY" and some "Lifu" freewheels here and there, the Lifu tool looks similar to a Shimano UG tool, but is slighlty larger.
These again are common on lower end bikes.
A freewheel is easy enough to change, and as long as it's the right thread, it won't hurt to use it at least until you come up with a correst one. I would guess that the UO-8 probably had an Atom or Maillard freewheel originally.

   RE:RE:MISC:    posted by JONathan on 3/17/2004 at 4:44:32 AM
Thanks, Joe. I guess it is nothing great, but it is great to know something about the different brands and models. I found a store that stocks 27" tires that are tough enough for blacktop trash dodging. One is a Bonetrager "race Lite" and the other is a Trek "Turbo" (I think it was a Trek) I checked this shop for vintage stuff and it has quite a lot. He had a '62 Hercules 3-sp. for $65, I almost got it, as it had a full tune up and new tires, cables and brake pads! That would run me about $60 at retail prices. I may go back. The bike had the OEM rear fender and chainguard, too. These 27" wheels are still hanging around. Nobody is selling new ones that I know about. Maybe some NOS, but are they obsolete components? I can get a couple bikes going with the "race-lite" tires and be somewhat contemporary. The "continental" tires are a bit prone to sidewall abrasion, INHO. They ride fantastic. but for everyday busting on thoroughfares, the kevlar reinforced tires are better equipped to deal with the debris. Lots of glass! Man, I'm thinking about running the cheapo drugstore tires which are for 27" wheels, too.
Thanks for that bit; I'll keep the wheels as pounders.
JONathan






AGE / VALUE:   Dawes posted by: Stevem on 3/12/2004 at 5:51:24 PM
Hello all-
I have a Dawes Diplomat coaster brake in dark green with red, bands broken up by faded gold stripes on the seat tube. How can I tell how old it is?
There is a letter/number stamp on the left rear dropout (sorry I don't have it in front of me), and hubs don't have a date on them, althought the coaster arm is a bendix.
Thanks in advance,
Steve







AGE / VALUE:   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by: JONathan on 3/12/2004 at 3:44:19 AM
I was wondering about what to do with a few steel rim 27 inch wheels. The rims are very good to fair condition. The hubs are mostly alloy high-flangers. Will they become rare as hens' teeth in a decade. They are virtually non-existent in the LBS's, although some sell Continental tires for the alloy hp jobs.
The only tires suitable are the 70-90 psi cheapos, but these work OK when you have to take it on glass and metal strewn roadways. Who wants to trash a $30 tire because it hit a broken spark plug lying in the bike lane? They are heavy wheels, mostly Rigida and some English and Japanese brands. I popped a couple of good freewheels (one was 14-34 skip-tooth Shimano) which can thread onto the alloy wheels. A few good QR's and some really decent axles and cones were salvaged for later needs. Would it be better to just keep the hubs? Space is not a concern. Mainly, are they worthwhile for VLW restoration?
Thanks a lot for advice.
BTW, most of them are ones that I picked up here and there, mostly the result of an upgrade to 700c or 27" alloys.
The bike shops don't seem to keep them around, but then they don't keep much of any vintage stuff, it seems.
JONathan


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by Gralyn on 3/12/2004 at 12:45:20 PM
If space is not an issue - then maybe you should just hang onto them. There were lots of old bike boomer lightweights that came originally equipped with steel rims. You may run across an old frame that you would want to build up all-original.....and you would already have the wheels!
(What's rare for me to find....is a steel wheel set that isn't rusted too badly. Heck, even the alloy sets I find are usually too badly oxidized)

   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by John E on 3/12/2004 at 3:35:40 PM
Since I would rather be safe than correct, I absolutely avoid steel rims, because of their abysmal braking performance. Converting to modern aluminum rims improves the acceleration, braking, ride quality, and tyre selection for ANY vintage 10-speed, and after the mid 1950s, the better ones all had aluminum rims, anyway. (Of course, where I live, 1 km downwind of the Pacific Ocean, steel rims do not last very long, anyway.)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by Lenny on 3/12/2004 at 6:12:48 PM
Hi JONathan:

My 2 cents is that if you also might want to build up some alloy-rimmed wheels for your VLW, hang on to these steel-rimmed 27" wheels just for the hubs (and QR skewers as you mention). To find N.O.S. hubs for the old 120mm rear dropout spacing is very difficult (at least for me) and won't get any easier. Regards, Lenny

   RE:Steel rim 27 inchers posted by JONathan on 3/12/2004 at 6:16:13 PM
Thanks for the comments, which have helped make a decision on these dozen or so wheels. I think I'll keep the best of the lot (maybe the top 4) for what Gralyn is saying. The others I'll parts down and then stack the rims for some other project; not likely to be bike related....giant wind chimes or gyro-art??
Thanks for the input.
JONathan

   RE:RE:Steel rim 27 inchers posted by JONathan on 3/12/2004 at 6:30:18 PM
Thanks, Lenny. I appreciate the comments on the hubs. Yes, the 120mm hubs are what's on the bulk of the wheels. The FW's are in remarkably good condition based on their being little wear on the teeth and enough coated, dry grease to have kept the rust at bay for a few decades. I really have to scrub the cogs to get them cleaned up, but they look better than new ones. I compared the older fW's with new ones and the steel and machining appears more refined in the vintage units. The cogs appear cut better, too. One of the steel rims is a very decent built Araya. These are good utility wheels that if you go slow, don't live near salt water breezes and the retro-look appeals, then these could be OK. Steel rims were what we all had, before things went alloy. We'd pound 'em back into shape and slap them back on until the next brutality dinged them up.
Steel can always be fixed. We all got to be experts with a hammer and 2x4's. Ah, the days of the VLW's. So cool.
Thanks, again, Lenny. I will definitely heed your advice.
JONathan

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by Rob on 3/12/2004 at 6:39:56 PM
I tend to hang on to the good steel rims (Dunlop, Schurmann, Araya...even Rigidas...if they aren't already too rusty)...for most casual cycling I don't see that they are much of an issue...as for using them in the rain...yes, the stoppability is not as good as alloy, but I've noticed the alloy rims are definitely being ground down by the road grit and the brake pads seem to wear away pretty fast as well...maybe a little less stopping power will preserve the rims and pads, and more anticipation might be a better approach to traffic issues....or maybe I just have more guts than brains...:)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by Shaun on 3/13/2004 at 5:58:40 AM
I have struggled with the same issue. Wheels are really starting to pile up. I have trashed a few rims but have hung on to the old high flange hubs, as they don't take up much space and can always be built into a nice set of 700c alloy wheels.

JONathan, don't toss any of those nice Rigida steel rims with the textured braking surface. I would always be willing to take those off somebodys hands.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steel rim 27 inchers posted by JONathan on 3/14/2004 at 4:05:22 AM
Thanks, Shaun. I have quite a few of the kind that have a dimple pattern. They work OK. They mostly came on the UO-8's and Raleighs (Records and Grand Prix). I think the Moto "Nobly" has those also, if I remember. Except for that "Nobly", I change out to 27" alloy wheels on the bikes that get action. The alloy wheels are much quicker handling, but as was stated so well, unless you go fast, there really isb't much difference...assuming no rain-riding. I ride everyday, but some bikes only get out when the weather is real friendly...so they have the steelies. Unless I tell people, they don't know. I put a set of alloy 26's on a Raleigh "sports", and I never got any feedback, like; "Gee, this bike handles great, what'd you do to it"? I think you have to ride a lot to pick up that the steel rims are inferior. It took me a while to convert to alloys exclusively, except for the "Sprite", which is all stock, including the worst shifting derialer I've ever used (Huret "scissors jsck", I call it). I can't dial it in no matter how many times I tinker. Thanks for the wheel advice. I have some spares, to be sure.
JONathan






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   No offense to simplex posted by: marc on 3/12/2004 at 1:40:58 AM
Well the super course is no longer as original as it once was. I got tired of the simplex prestige setup. They just weren't shifting very well, especially the front. I had a set of suntour ar's laying around so I tossed those on and what a difference! I took her out for a nice long ride in the cold and shifting was not a problem. With the simplex, every once in a while when I shifted up or down in the front the chain would get caught between the two chain wheels. Not fun! I'm looking for some shimano 600 "araby" ders. to match the shifters I got off of the fuji finest and when I find them I think I'll toss those on the super course. I think they'll look quite nice.

Speaking of the fuji finest, I'm looking for a fuji badged suntour front der. for a double. Anyone have one to trade or sell? Same for the shimano 600's


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   No offense to simplex posted by JONathan on 3/12/2004 at 2:11:44 AM
I would check that the chainrings are spaced correctly and the chain is the right size...I assume you set up the Simplex front OK. I have some Simplex derailers that shift pretty decent. The SunTour product is definitely superior, IMHO. The Simplexes can shift as good as the lower-end SunTour, but they are not as tough. I have replaced a Simplex front der. twice from breakage. A sun-block conditioned can prolong them from becoming brittle from the uv light.
Also, check that the fr. cage is not bent on the Simplex. That could be a problem. Surprising to me, my Maino had Simplex, not the usual Campy stuff you get on the higher-end Italian road racers. I think some riders prefferd the Simplexes. The one on the Maino shifys real slick, but the cluster is pretty tight range...no big jumps like you see in the bike-boom Alpine gearing.
Hey, I'll check on that Fuji badged shifter. Can't help on the 600.
Good luck, and I'm glad you got your SC going strong!
JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   No offense to simplex posted by Gralyn on 3/12/2004 at 4:11:42 AM
I haven't had any problems with the Simplex......but the Huret! The experience has been really crappy performance for me. The Sun Tour does much better. Simplex - not too bad....but not as good as the Sun Tour

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   No offense to simplex posted by Oscar on 3/12/2004 at 5:14:32 AM
The Simplexes on my Super Course shifted ok enough until I fed the rear derailleur into my spokes. I changed to Shimano 600 and it still shifts ok.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   No offense to simplex posted by Gralyn on 3/12/2004 at 12:53:19 PM
Yes, Shimano......I've had good results from Shimano.

......now, my experience is limited, but the absolute best performance I have ever experience: Hyperglide. I have Hyperglide on my Bridgestone RB-1....and for friction shifting.....it shifts like a dream!

My worst is some Hurets on some old Motobecanes and Peugeots.....no matter how I adjust.....they just don't do that well for me.

   Simplex posted by John E on 3/12/2004 at 11:49:21 PM
I never met a Simplex derailleur I really liked. The horizontal cage motion of the pushrod Prestige fronts make them suitable only for half-step gearing, and the rears were never a match for the SunTour slant planograph, which the entire world copied when the patient expired, proving that SunTour hit on the right idea first. By far, the worst rear derailleur I ever owned was a Cyclo copy of the clockspring Simplex Tour de France. One can adjust old Simplex derailleurs to handle something like 46-49/14-16-18-20-23 (54 to 94 gear-inches), but forget about wide-range gearing.