If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
Archived: Vintage Lightweights
WANTED: Alloy touring bars?
posted by: Joe
on 4/4/2004 at 9:25:31 AM
| After seeing the last post, I figured I should try everyone here first, I am looking for either a set of alloy All-Rounder handlebars or a set of alloy North Road bars for a Raleigh Super Tourer project. |
Who ever had the bike before me sawed off the bars down to only a hands width in the center and put on a set of bar end brake levers, and moved the shifters to the stem.
MISC: need help
posted by: marc
on 4/4/2004 at 8:34:07 AM
| I'm stripping the fuji royale frame and I cant get the suntour bar end shifters off. I took the levers off and I'm assuming you're supposed to loosen the allen nut inside but it won't budge. Am I doing anything wrong? |
RE:MISC: need help
posted by marc on 4/4/2004 at 9:02:33 AM
| never mind. Thanks to Glen's Bicycle Manual I figured out you have to turn the bolt clockwise to remove the shifters. You live you learn.|
WANTED: Moustache handlebars
posted by: Robert
on 4/4/2004 at 1:46:59 AM
| Being a tightwad in some areas, I am not likely to shell 50 - 60 dollars for a new set of Nitto moustache handlebars. So, does anyone know of some other readily available, econo priced moustache bar knockoffs ? What about some upright bars that have a simular bend when turned upside down or ???? Thanks Robert |
RE:WANTED: Moustache handlebars
posted by Oscar on 4/5/2004 at 7:11:24 PM
| Some 60 french touring mixties had nice W shaped handlebars. They are really shallow, so they would make cool drops. You just have to buy the whole bike to get the bars.|
RE:RE:WANTED: Moustache handlebars
posted by Derek Coghill on 4/6/2004 at 11:09:35 PM
| Try a motorbike breaker's; some of the 100cc-ish Japanese bikes have bars that might turn upside down in a suitable manner. There's a lot that you can do with a gas torch and a hacksaw, too!|
AGE / VALUE: Peugeot "P60"? from the '50's?
posted by: JONathan
on 4/3/2004 at 8:56:43 PM
| I have just picked up a rummage sale vintage LW bike with no decals. The lugs look a lot like the PX-10 ornate style. The bike has four unusual features. One is the crank set. They are cottered and have a 48T large and what looks like a 44T or 46T small. THe steel rings look riveted together (they are a bit loose) and attach to a five-armed spider that is bolted to a flange on the drive crank. The crankarms have something like; "---fessinnels" embossed over a red enamel indentation midway. I think it is : "Professionnels", but the first three letters are not discernable to me. They look very vintage to me.|
Secondly, the brakes are cantilevers on front and rear. Most of the cmponents are refitted Japanese bikeboom stuff. The hub is Campy with a very unique hyperbolic cross-section rim. The rear wheel is a concave Weinmann. Both are alloy rims. Thirdly, there is a pulley mounted on a brazed-on bracket on the right side of the BB. This is for the rear derailer cable. The pulley is about 15mm in diameter and is alloy. Fourth feature is the rear dropout shape. The upper edge has a down-turn right at the exit end. That looked strange to me. The SunTour "V" rear derailer was mounted onto a tab, but they may have sawed the integral hanger off, if it had one, to accommodate the SunTour.
There are a few additional features that stand out, such as the "peg" sticking out of the right seat-stayl the left and right brazed tabs on the forks for a light and the brazed "wires" to clamp down the rear derailer cable onto the right chain-stay. The overview of the bike struck my fancy as being pre-bikeboom. It had been used as a commuter/tourer with a Nashbar pack and another pack under the seat. They had an well worn pair of gloves and a spare tube inide. The white spray enamel is drip marking the tubes and it has chipped away, but there was protection from rust. The exposed areas are not rusted, indicating a garaged bike. The Zefal pump worked enough great. I pumped up and rode it to the truck. The Mafac cp's are in good shape, even the pads. The bars are Specialized high quality, with Shimano aero-brake and one Mafac aero-brake lever. Hoods are new! This bike was run for a while with Continental "sport" 25-622 and a Kenda wide-track front tire. The Avocet leather seat is new. I looked at the retro-peugeot catalogs and came up with a P-60 (PH60) based on the cantilever brakes, close range chainrings; pump pegs on downtube and the lugs. The BB is 68mm, so I ruled out Italian..did Bianchi have cantilever brakes on any bikes? The date I centered on was 1952/53. Does this seem about correct? I will try to get an uplink of a picture to the "Bicycle Id. Project" page, here. Price was $20, which I think they felt was high compared to the other bikes that were in much better shape..like a Specialized "hardrock" for $20. A couple of oners of the "Huffyesque" variety were also available for $20. They spelled it the same way, no matter what the bike! I'm a sucker for the vintage LW's. I'd like to add this one to my "museum" exhibit bikes. Thanks...Tom, are you still near those Peugeot catalogs (hint, hint)?
I hope you can clear this up. Good rides, all.
RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot
posted by T-Mar on 4/4/2004 at 1:58:43 AM
| JONathan, the frame sounds really interesting! Unfortunately, my Peugeot catalogs do not go back that far. There's definitely nothing in them with cantilevers. I know Bianchi had bikes with cantilevers. Did you check the threading and seat post size? That may give a clue as to the country of origin. A specific serial number sequence may also provide a clue to someone.|
There were numerous manufacturer's that produced 5 pin cranks with a 50.4 mm bolt circle, similar to what you describe. TA is the most common and they did have a 5 pin Professional model, but it was cotterless and had chainrings with 6 arms.
I eagerly await the pictures.
RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot
posted by Tom M on 4/4/2004 at 3:10:14 AM
| Have a look at this site maybe you can find a match. Lots of catalogues. http://home.wanadoo.nl/peugeotshow/|
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot
posted by toowheels on 4/5/2004 at 12:56:09 AM
| Wow great site ,thanks Tom M.|
RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot
posted by Rob on 4/5/2004 at 6:14:59 PM
| Interesting find, JONathan...it does sound French...you could, maybe, measure the diameter of the cotter pins...9mm would be French...Italian is 8.5mm, I believe. When you take apart the BB, typical French would be 35mm x1mm and the fixed cup typically would come off counter-clockwise...but I wouldn't do that unless you absolutely have to...fixed cups can be brutal even when you are turning it the proper way and if you're not sure...gee whiz...50/50 are the odds you've got it right!! ...and not all French bikes conform to this standard... I believe Gitanes were a bit different from most other French bikes.|
The lug patterns should be a good clue...I would check for photos searching by some of the obvious names...Prugnat, Nervex... What model of MAFACs does it have? Some of the older models had periods after each letter. Does the rake on the forks suggest a touring model or a 'racer'. You're probably right that they had to adapt the dropout for the SunTour "V"...I wanted to mount a "V" on my Gitane TdF, but found the dropout hanger could not take it because of the "B" adjustment screw and tab...rather than 'wreck' the frame I settled for an early 80s Shimano 600...
Good find...keep us posted on what you figure out...
posted by John E on 4/5/2004 at 7:44:46 PM
| All French bikes built before the mid-1970s have French-standard 35x1 cups, RH threaded on both sides. Gitane and Motobecane converted to (self-tightening) Swiss threading (LH-threaded fixed cup) first, but by 1980 even stodgy old Peugeot used Swiss threading. Later, almost everyone converted to ISO English threading, with 24 TPI instead of 25.4. Pretty weird for a "metric" world!|
With a BB shell width of 68mm, you can rule out an Italian pedigree. Remove the adjustable cup and carefully measure the thread pitch; it will be 1mm for French or Swiss, and 24 TPI for English, Austrian, Swedish, German, etc.
posted by John E on 4/5/2004 at 7:48:53 PM
| All of us missed a vital clue on first read. The right-side lighting brackets indubitably imply a drive-on-the-left British pedigree. Pull the adjustable BB cup to verify 24 TPI, possibly 26 TPI.|
posted by JONathan on 4/6/2004 at 2:05:13 AM
| Wow! Thanks a lot for all informative data. The bike is definitely a lightweight bike. I have a good set of digital pictures of the frame and wheels. I took pictures of the cranks and chainrings. The 48/46 tooth chainrings are unusual, IMHO. The five-arm spider has lost a lot of chrome plate, with no identifying logos. The small ring is riveted to the large ring which is integral with the spider. The spider anchors with 5 small bolts around a center flange. It looks very funky, to say the least. Here is another oddity. The fixed cup has been replaced with a "36x24tpi" Japanese cup. The adj. cup is the same threading size. I wonder if the BB was rethreaded or....possible it is British. The frame is very light, compared to the usual Raleigh stuff I heft onto the bike-stand. The lighting setup has two anchor loops brazed onto the forks, allowing mounting either side or both. The eyes may be for a rack and were just a convenient place for the light. I have no clue. The seat-post measures about 25.8-26.0 mm. That's the range of several readings at different points. The post is not completely smooth, so it made the reading a bit tricky. Definitely not more than 26mm OD. The front wheel is Campagnola with a lot of chrome missing. The skewers are in great shape. The wheel turns like a precision bearing product...Campy stuff was definitely superior. The alloy rim is very thick wall with a hyperbolic x-section. Very interesting, never seen one like that. I tried the Peugeot site suggested, and the "P60" c. 1952 was what came the closest. The British origin has not been theoretically ruled out. The headset has been replaced with an ISO unit, which may point toward an English origin. The rake and trail are indicative of a touring bike. The rear wheel has wingnuts holding it on the axle. This bike predates any models that I have in my collection. A 1960 Schwinn "racer" had been the furthest back in time. Well, I have the Columbia, which may be pre-1960. I just can't get a date on it. Thanks so much for the info. I'll check those brakes, tonight. They work way better than caliper brakes in stopping the wheels.|
Additional notes: There are two brazed eyes for a MTB style rack; eg. "Blackburn" or "Avenir" aluminum. This seemed like a feature ahead of its day on the bike. The rear dropout did not have an integral hanger. The top edge curves downward, in a hook-like configuration. The brake-cable bridge is a flat bar. There is a brake bridge with hole drilled for a regular caliper brake attachment. The fitting for the cable stop is all brass...maybe bronze, and it is adjustable.
The pictures will show a lot more.
posted by John E on 4/6/2004 at 2:48:58 PM
| Only two kinds of bikes have 36x24 BB cups: 1) Italian, but I though they always had 70mm-wide BB shells; 2) bikes whose stripped or otherwise damaged BBs have been reamed out and rethreaded from 35mm=1.37" to 36mm. If the bike originally came with hard-to-find old school Raleigh proprietary 1.37"x26TPI threading and the owner needed new BB cups, reboring and retapping to Italian would have been a logical course of action, although I think I would have tried simply retapping to Swiss 35x1 threading first. |
Although I have seen a few half-step 2-tooth chainring drops, such as 49-47 and your 48-46, a 3-tooth drop is far more common, because it yields better gear ratio spacing against a 2-tooth progression in the cogset.
posted by Derek Coghill on 4/6/2004 at 11:15:31 PM
| I'd have thought that the pedal spider for the gears would have had 3 arms; I could very well be wrong though.|
RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot
posted by T-Mar on 4/7/2004 at 2:16:40 AM
| Pending seeing the pictures, I'm leaning to Italian, from the '50s, or earlier. The BB threading is definitely Italian and before they standardized on 70mm, they did produce shells in 65mm & 68mm widths. |
Also, the seat post size indicates Italian. It is too small for butted tubes, assuming that it is the correct post. However, the relatively light weight implies that it is at least a quality, plain gauge tube, as opposed to common tubing. The Italians produced quality, plain gauge seat tubes with a 26.0 inner diameter. Other nations generally used 26.2mm or larger.
Those dropout guides sound like what our cycling club president used to have on his old Claude Butler, but I can't remember the era. I think it was late '40s or early '50s.
I eagerly await the pictures.
AGE / VALUE: ?? for you experts
posted by: Birddog
on 4/3/2004 at 8:42:56 PM
| I've got a line on an "old" Raleigh 10 speed. All I know for sure is that it is red and does indeed have just 10 speeds. The guy isn't at home and can't tell me much about it, other than the asking price of $150.00. I need to know what to look for, and what questions to ask before I make the trek to actually look at it. What are some particular identifiers of Raleighs that I need to know? Thanks much in advance, the knowledge I glean from time to time on this board is amazing.|
RE:AGE / VALUE: ?? for you experts
posted by Warren on 4/4/2004 at 3:28:29 AM
| If it ain't Reynolds 531 tubing, it aint worth it. Red and yellow were the "team" colours on the pro line of bikes and then 2 years later red and yellow were the colours on bottom of the heap gaspipe models. Be careful.|
RE:AGE / VALUE: ?? for you experts
posted by Warren on 4/4/2004 at 10:21:21 AM
| Thought number 2...it could be a red Super Course. It "might" be worth the money if it's in great shape. They make good riders and excellent fixed gear conversions.|
VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Luck just changed
posted by: marc
on 4/3/2004 at 6:55:39 PM
| Well karma is an interesting thing. Today was a great day for vintage lightweights for me. I've been working on my fuji finest and I've been missing a few bits and pieces. Today I got a fuji royale in ok shape, but it will very quickley lose it's suntour bar end shifters, front deraileur cage, and look pedals. Not bad for 5 bucks. I also got a japanese frame, crystal was the brand, it's a junk frame with cottered cranks but someone put on a pair shimano dura ace brakes on it. And last but not least I picked up a beautiful Peugeot mixte. Nervar cottered cranks, simplex prestige with downtube shifters, chrome wheels but both have simplex QR skewers, Ideale saddle, mafac racer brakes and levers with half hoods and mafac brake handle covers and chromed front fork. It's beautiful chrome is near peferct so is paint and decals. It actually looks brand new. It's white and I think from the decals it's late 60's early 70's. I'll post some pics later to see if anyone can help me identify it. |
WANTED: front sprocket 1971 motobecane lightweight
posted by: Jim
on 4/2/2004 at 9:22:31 PM
| I have a 1971 motobecane lightweight in original condition.(except the tires) I bought it in 1971 and it's been great to me. Recently the small front sprocket cracked due to stress fatigue. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement. Thanks Jim. |
front sprocket 1971 motobecane
posted by John E on 4/3/2004 at 5:20:34 PM
| If you can provide the brand name (Stronglight, Nervar, TA, etc.), the bolt circle diameter (see Sheldonbrown.com), the number of bolts (probably 3 or 5), and the desired number of teeth (38, 40, 42, or perhaps 45?), someone here or on eBay can almost undoubtedly help you. |
Nervar 5-bolt spiders used a proprietary 128mm BCD, but I have had very good luck using a Dremel tool and/or drill bit to elongate (inward by 1 mm) the holes of modern standard 130mm chainrings to fit my Nervar Star spider, for which I also have an assortment of correct 128mm BCD rings ranging from 38 to 52 teeth.
The TA "Professional" model 3-bolt spider used the same 116mm BCD as typical steel cranks and rings of that era.
This is your big chance to adjust your gear ratios a bit, if desired, by going to a slightly larger or smaller inside chainring.
AGE / VALUE: Best Brakes?
posted by: TimW
on 4/2/2004 at 7:58:22 PM
| I have a simple question. Good, but not collectable, old road bikes that come my way I usually convert into commuter bikes for folks. That means putting rack & fenders, triple crank, straight bars and indexed bar shifters. Usually the stock brakes on those bikes aren't that strong (unless it's an old loaded tourer with canti's). What are the best brakes to put on a bike that doesn't have canti bosses, but is used to carry moderate loads (books, groceries)? I've heard centrepulls (eg: Wiennmans) are best, but don't know for sure. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Best Brakes?
posted by Oscar on 4/2/2004 at 8:10:07 PM
| Weinmann centerpulls (or Dia Compe copies) work great. Also, since they can be found anywhere, it would be a good choice for your many bike projects.|
Myself, I'm a sucker for MAFAC Racer brakes. They aren't as easy to find, but they'll stop you in any situation.
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Best Brakes?
posted by marc on 4/2/2004 at 8:58:30 PM
| I have great experiences with weinmann center pulls but since I picked up my fuji finest and fuji absolute I've been especially impressed with dia compe sidepulls, I think they're 500G models. First time I had to stop suddenly I thought I was going to go over the bars! I wasn't expecting that much stoping power. |
posted by John E on 4/3/2004 at 5:31:38 PM
| You can significantly upgrade older brakes by substituting modern cable housings and pads. Proper adjustment helps, and switching to aero-style brake handles can boost braking leverage by about 20 percent, depending on brand and model. Select handles which fit the intended rider's hands properly; I can brake much better with Weinmann or DiaCompe handles than with Campagnolos or Mafacs, which are designed for larger hands than mine. If you have long-reach (i.e., low-leverage) calipers, consider a drop bolt, particularly on the rear. According to his last post, Marc obviously appreciated the high leverage afforded by the short-reach DiaCompe sidepulls, but these are not an option on most frames from the 1960s and early 1970s. |
By the way, one can enhance the leverage of Mafac centerpulls by shortening the straddle cable a bit. I believe Weinmann and DiaCompe have offered two different straddle cable lengths (110 and 120mm ??); here again, shorter is better.
VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Tour de Suisse
posted by: Steve M
on 4/2/2004 at 6:30:31 PM
| Hello all,|
I just acquired a very nice nervex lugged Tour de Suisse 10 speed. It is mainly shimano, with alloy rims, a sugino crank amd 3t bars/stem. The serial is on the top left of the seat tube going down to the rear dropout.
The only real braze on is for the rear derailleur cable, everything else(shifters, cable guides, etc.) is clamp-on.
The color is this cool gold cornmeal, and headbadge is a red sticker of I'm guissing switzerland. The rear triangle and bottom of forks are chromed, and it has reynolds 531 decals.
Any info on these?
It has a decent scattering of surface rust, and I'm thinking of having it stripped and powdered but maintaining the nice chromed lugs on the headtube and forkcrown (the others are already painted)
Any information or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
MISC: Not much luck with lightweights lately
posted by: marc
on 4/2/2004 at 4:48:30 PM
| I haven't found any lightweights lately and had never seen a biopace chainring up close until I got that schwinn high sierra. Guess what, I picked up an old specialized hard rock at the thrift store and it had another biopace triple chainring set. I didn't realize it was a hard rock at first, definately mid to late 80's. It's white with very 80's decals. I mainly picked it up for the very nice araya alloy wheels with the dimpled eyelet spoke holes. Nice and true, and they'll go right on the high sierra frame. The hard rocks are very solid rides I think, I have one from the early ninties and its a nice ride especially with slicks on it. I'm not sure if I want to keep the frame and look for another set of wheels or part it out. It's all shimano, I forgot what model derailleurs it has, shimano canti brakes up front and a u brake mounted under the chain stays in the rear. It was a good deal for 25 bucks but I'd trade it any day for a decent light weight. It would make a good beater pothole bike. |
Specialized Hard Rock
posted by John E on 4/2/2004 at 5:42:49 PM
| My elder son rides a 1993 Hard Rock, which has served him well for several years, although the 17" frame is a little short for him now. It seems a bit lighter than my more expensive 1988 Schwinn and is indeed a nice ride.|
RE:MISC: Not much luck with lightweights lately
posted by Bryant on 4/3/2004 at 12:01:26 PM
| I just sold a Schwinn High Plains with biopace. I believe it was an 89. I pick up MTB's when the LWs are scarce. The MTBs sell quickly and for a little more than the LWs. I just picked up a ladies 1991 Schwinn Crossfit Hybrid at an auction. Too late for Biopace but this is the earliest I've seen a hybrid. Anyone know when the first hybrids came out?|
FOR SALE: Cinelli Speciale Corsa 1970 60cm
posted by: Jim
on 4/2/2004 at 1:04:26 PM
| FOR SALE: 1970 Cinelli Speciale Corsa Restored|
60cm (c-c) 58cm top tube
Silver with original chrome
Full Campagnolo Nuovo Record: 175 cranks, pat. 84 rear derailleur, shield brake hoods, Regina Oro 13-28 5spd & chain, Fiamme "red label", Cinelli 64-40 bars & 130mm 1A stem.
This bike is very clean and in perfect running condition.
Only a few very minor chips in paint. Frame was checked/aligned when restored.
Buyer pays freight and insurance. Will ship to USA only.
Asking $1,500.00 OBO.
MISC: Schwinn Approved LeTour
posted by: James Mahon
on 4/2/2004 at 1:29:37 AM
| I recently acquired on a trash day scavenger hunt, a "Schwinn Approved LeTour" mixte frame and fork with a few components still attached. It is lugged, painted red and has dual seat stays, a fancy chrome fork crown, 1/2 chrome fork blades stamped rear dropouts with Y492592 stamped on outside of the left dropout. Components remaining are Schwinn centre pull calipers, with the rears mounted on the bridge of the center pair of seat stays, and a front derailleur labelled "GT450" on the clamp. It has stem shifters mounted on a plate under the headset locknut and brake levers with extensions and flip releases. The head badge says "Schwinn Approved Japan" and the label on the seat tube reads "Made in Japan for Schwinn Bicycle Company". The downtube decal is "Schwinn + LeTour" with "approved" in a small font under Schwinn. What year could it be? ( I checked the serial# database first and didn't find the pattern so now I am asking.) Also was the letour made in different locations or were they all made under license and "approved" by Schwinn? Thanks in advance for any input. |
RE:MISC: Schwinn Approved LeTour
posted by Rob on 4/2/2004 at 2:33:28 AM
| Sounds like a '75/'76...check out this site:|
I'll let one of the resident 'Schwinnophiles' give you the definitive answer to the other questions...but I think the LeTours in the era were made by Panasonic....I have a red '76 LeTour (male version) which I got it only had some of the parts...I pulled it together with some slighly better than original components...beautiful ride...smooth, responsive...
RE:MISC: Schwinn Approved LeTour
posted by Bryant on 4/2/2004 at 11:25:50 AM
Check the Schwinn Lightweight Databook (link was provided above) and look for the color. The LeTour Mixte first came out in 1975. I have a yellow one hanging in my garage. You can also check the inside of the suicide levers. There is normally a date stamp there that will put you within a year. The derailleurs and cranks should say LeTour on them if they are original. Once fixed up it will make a nice ride. Nice find.
AGE / VALUE: Pontiac Bicycle
posted by: Victoria
on 4/1/2004 at 10:37:42 PM
| I found an old bicycle in my late uncles garage. It is old and is a Pontiac. I can find that brand in the data base. Does anyone know anything about a Pontiac bicycle. Thanks. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Pontiac Bicycle
posted by TimW on 4/2/2004 at 8:59:47 PM
| Can you describe the bike a bit? This section is for old racing bikes ("10 speeds). Is the Pontiac a racing bike, or an old 'cruiser', or??|
AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Passage
posted by: Gralyn
on 4/1/2004 at 6:08:09 PM
| Well, my persistence paid off. There's one particular thrift store that has been a good source for VLW's. I stop by frequently, because - should a decent bike appear - it will dis-appear very quickly - as they always do. I rode by today and spotted drop bars.....so I stopped to have a look. |
It's a Schwinn Passage. I had never heard of it before. It has drop bars, of couse, single-lever brakes with hoods, down-tube shifters, cantilever brakes, alloy wheels with QR front and rear, decent-looking hubs, Columbus tubing, decent pedals, Sakae triple up front.
Anyone familiar with this model? I assume it's a touring model?
RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Passage
posted by James Mahon on 4/1/2004 at 11:54:13 PM
| Sounds a lot like mine. I have a 1986 Schwinn Passage that I bought new and has been my all around workhorse since. I commute to work on it, century rides, week long tours. Great comfortable tour bike. Heres the specs: touring geometry, Columbus Tenax tubing, horizontal rear dropouts, DiaCompe brake levers and Cantilevers, Sachs ratchet shifters, Sakae CX triple cranks 50/42/30, SR Laprade seatpost, SR Road Champion drop bars, SR Custom stem. Originally a 15 speed with a 14-24 Atom Freewheel but I've since upgraded to a 14-28 HG 6 speed because there's plenty of room. 3 water bottle mounts, pump peg on head tube, Rack and fender bosses both front and back. Originally equipped with QR alloy 27" wheels (since converted to 700c). I don't remember what the original hubs were because they have been long since worn out. I have a current picture at http://email@example.com for comparison. I still ride this one every week to work.|
RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Passage
posted by James Mahon on 4/2/2004 at 3:38:33 AM
| I forgot to mention above.... Retail price for an '86 Passage when I bought it in August 1986 , $309.95 . I would say if you can get it for thrift store prices, scoop it up, it's a great bike...|
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Passage
posted by Gralyn on 4/2/2004 at 3:47:36 AM
| Hey, I scooped it up for $18|
It sounds just like the specs described above. I saw the places for 2 water bottle cages....where's the 3rd? It has all the bosses for front and rear racks, etc. Certainly a touring bike. Not sure what year....haven't looked that closely yet...I suppose it will have the date stamp on the head badge. My guess is 86 or so.....
It feels pretty lightweight, too.
RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Passage
posted by JONathan on 4/2/2004 at 9:43:28 AM
| James, thanks for the post. I hadn't seen one ever before. That's a fine lookin' touring bike. I really enjoy the 4130 cr-mo "Traveler" that's been my "everything" bike. I believe some of the best bikes were from that period in the '80's. Things got lighter and more sophisticated in shifter mechanisms, but bikes like that were designed for riding long miles without any operational "hickups".|
Gralyn, $18 is a deal. I guess the VLW's are still coming in, although the prices are getting higher for me to pay, although I found a Bridgestone ('88/89) "RB-1" in near mint, but it was $80. Still, it was one on my short list of must-have bikes, so it was worth it. Never fails, when I ain't lookin'...there's a bike! I hadn't gone to the Sal. Army store for 2 months, too. The bike had just come onto the floor. While I was checking the frame, I noticed customers appearing out of thin air...the "pros", who were just waiting for me to back off. It was complete luck. The "passage", is it 4130 cr-mo steel main tubes? It looks a lot like my "traveler" from the picture. James, the "Le Tours" form Panasonic had a decal; "Xtra-Lite tubing" on the seat-tube. I think that is regular steel. I saw a mixte "Le Tour III", that was very light. It may have been cr-mo or Tange. I suspect they were expensive bikes, too.
RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Passage
posted by James Mahon on 4/2/2004 at 3:04:11 PM
| Gralyn, my Passage has 3 water bottle mounts, the seat tube, top of the downtube and the bottom of the downtube just ahead of the large chainring. It has Columbus Tenax tubes, and according to some posts on the UBI discussion boards, is a straight gauge seamed 4130 tubeset but it really does feel pretty lightweight. You got it for a great price. It will hold up well. JONathan, I think the Passage and Traveller were very similar in stature and materials. When I bought mine, it was a toss-up between the two. The Passage came with a few extras, like a Blackburn rear rack where the Traveller didn't. Also, the bike store didn't have a Traveller to fit me in stock. I got the Passage and rest is history.|
posted by John E on 4/2/2004 at 3:07:08 PM
| 50-42-30? That is my kind of gearing. The 50-42 8-tooth drop on my Bianchi makes a great Alpine/step-and-a-half ratio pattern with a 2-tooth progression in back. A 14-16-18-20-23-26 six-speed or a 13-15-17-19-21-23-26 or 14-16-18-20-22-25-28 seven-speed would be near-perfect.|
AGE / VALUE: ow to identify what model/year Campy parts
posted by: Lee
on 4/1/2004 at 5:13:52 PM
| I have another problem that I hope someone can help me with. I have some Campy crank arms/chain rings that I would like to figure out what model they are and the aprox. year. Is there an easy way?|
RE:AGE / VALUE: ow to identify what model/year Campy parts
posted by John S on 4/1/2004 at 7:23:09 PM
| If the cranks are 70-80' Nuovo/Super Record style, there may be a date code. On the inside of the arm, if there is a number in a Diamond, that indicates the year <3> would be 73. If in a circle (4) would be an 84. If no date code, they are 72 and earlier, distinguished by shape and design details.|
Not sure if this holds for other crank models.