OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   update on MOHAWK BIKE posted by: donna on 5/19/2004 at 3:25:19 AM
First thank you for reply...upon closer inspection...it reads h.p. snyder mfg. on the bottom of the frame..and the hub reads a pat # which I looked up to be dated for 1962...I heard this company produced alot of bikes for chain stores..so may be one of them...guess my mystery is solved..:) thanks for your help:)


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   update on MOHAWK BIKE posted by JONathan on 5/19/2004 at 5:44:41 AM
You might take a look at the history of H.P. Snyder Mfg. Co. which started in the late 1800's. Rollfast was their bike. Real history there. Might want to hang on to that Mohawk...look what happened to the "crates".
I like to find American built bikes. I have Columbia, Huffy and Schwinn so far. Thanks for posting the "Mohawk". I'm curious about those "22 inch" tires. A bit unusual, I think.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   update on MOHAWK BIKE posted by Wings on 5/20/2004 at 6:00:15 AM
22 inch tires were also used on some Schwinns for awhile also. And there was also the 18 inch tire. I guess the idea was you could get a bike that would fit but it became rather expensive as a parent to be buying the next size bike all the time.






MISC:   bicycle graveyard posted by: freddie on 5/18/2004 at 8:34:09 PM
How many of us spend time dumpster diving,thrift stores or thae long drives just to look in sombodys barn or basement?I have been collecting and selling old bikes for several years now. My personal collection of 16 bikes include a krate ,red phantom a few lightweights and english roadsters. I like all bikes. Each weekend I will set out a few doz. bike for sale. from time to time somebody will offer to sell or give something that has been setting in a garage for years. Last week a man stopped to tell me he had a whole bunch of junk bikes he would give me just to get rid of them. After taking directions I showed up the next day. The 1st thing i saw was a pile of wheels larger than my car. a field of bikes some had small trees growing through them. 2 barns stacked full.. mostly bike boom junk but a lot of gems also. He told me that he was a director for rumpke. The largest trash hauler in the tri state area. for years he had his drivers bring him bikes they picked up along there routs. He was tired of them and will have the whole mess taken to the scrap yard this summer. I have spent 5 days and about 8 or 9 pickup truck loads I still need to see what I have I will keep you posted.


   RE:MISC:   bicycle graveyard posted by TimW on 5/18/2004 at 11:21:11 PM
You have found bike-picker nirvana, or mecca, or both! I just hope the good ones aren't too messed up at the bottom of the pile.

Actually, if I made that discovery, I would be scared! The time it would take to root through everything, and the sheer space issues of storing all the 'keepers', not to mention the future project overload, would make that a truly mixed blessing.

I have SO MANY great project bikes I just never get to. Now, if I was independently wealthy and made that discovery, it would be another story. Damn my day job!

   RE:RE:MISC:   bicycle graveyard posted by freddie on 5/19/2004 at 12:11:44 AM
No stingrays yet but several good schwinns varsitys,Le tour.2 Racers. 1 DL1 with a dayno hub. raleigh. nothing campy parts parts parts. one bike looks very good Lejune with a stronglight crank.The man that owns this has 3 sons and the last one left for collage last year. they have been mixing and matching parts for years. What is the best way to convince my wife this huge pile of frames and parts growing between my house and garage is a good idea.

   RE:MISC:   bicycle graveyard posted by RobA on 5/19/2004 at 12:14:35 AM
...nice to see others have the same "problem". I have just too many bikes, too many opportunities...My main source for whole bikes has become the spring clean up weeks in several of the suburban municipalities, though I occasional pick up good deals at thrifts and a couple of second hand bike shops)... Again this year the spring clean up was quite successful...around 25 bikes (7 or 8 were MTB/ATBs...and I focus on the better stuff... I must have seen several hundred bikes...lots of rusty, low-end stuff... I'm continually amazed at what people throw away...a garage-kept, circa 1983 Nishiki touring bike (Champion #2 tubing)with a Sugino AT triple and Cyclone M-II ders; a nice early 80s Nishiki International; lemon-yellow, Huret-equipped Schwinn Continental...needs new rims; a late 80s Cramerotti, with SLX tubing, mainly Campy Athena/Chorus components, some upgrading, extra rims,with newer Sachs 7-speed FWs. Some good MTBs/ATBs; probably twenty or more wheels, about half MTB/ATB,....I could go on...I haven't inventoried the stuff yet... Lots of Fun...:)

   RE:RE:MISC:   bicycle graveyard posted by JONathan on 5/19/2004 at 6:09:38 AM
Time to build up another Arrow shed? Nice work on that one. I have found it is not the presence of the bikes that causes a rift, but rather the "sight" of the presence of the bikes that makes things a bit bit rocky on the home front for me.
It's amazing to me that people take better care of a shovel or rake than a precision piece of machinery...that probably cost a lot. The rusted hulks are sad to see. I picked up a Trek "850" that had been run in the Sierra for 10 years. It was in good shape because it had a tarped berth. I have sen the collectors who pile the bikes to where it looks like a beaver's dam from a distance. What was the thinking? Collecting? Hoarding?
Last time I saw a bonanza like that, I had to suck it up and keep moving along or I'd be sleeping under the pile.
Nice work!
JONathan

   outbuildings posted by John E on 5/19/2004 at 2:16:46 PM
How many of you store bike parts in sheds or similar outbuildings? How many use metal Arrow sheds versus plastic versus cedar? I recently built three garden structures for my wife: a 4x7 Yardsaver and two 2x4 Gardener's Hutches from CedarShed of British Columbia. (The best CedarShed Internet dealer I have found is Colorado's www.spirtelements.com.) At $1K, it would not be cheap, but a second Yardsaver or larger shed might be suitable for the bicycle parts which currently crowd my garage rafters and walls.

   RE:outbuildings posted by Gralyn on 5/19/2004 at 3:58:45 PM
I certainly am in need of some decent storage for my bikes. I only have a small workshop that is decent for storing them. My garage is too humid (an old garage). I currently have about 9 in my bedroom. I need to get those out of my bedroom. So, I am going to have to find some decent storage. I also need to get rid of about 20-30 of my bikes. I know that would help considerably.
I haven't found a bike graveyard yet. I have been taken up to bicycle heaven, though! It was an old bike shop - the entire 2nd floor was handing thick with old bikes.

   Best way! posted by sam on 5/19/2004 at 4:03:25 PM
In this case --the best way to convence the little lady is to set he down at the computer and tune into to vintage bicycles parts on EBAY.After an hour or so of checkin prices offer to splt the outcome with her--you take the part-- she list it--you both get some spending cash--hope you find some diamond to keep too!---sam

   RE:Best way! posted by freddie on 5/19/2004 at 5:18:11 PM
Ebay is a sore spot with the little lady .I spend to much on things I really don't need. I did rent a 15X20 storage unit so I can sort things out. I hate leaving bikes outside and tarps really don't cut it.

   RE:RE:Best way! posted by JONathan on 5/19/2004 at 7:01:55 PM
For the bikes at ready, the fuzzy lined patio table covers work great to keep the condensation from forming on the bike. Space blankets work well as they reflect IR back onto the frame. Under a tree is even better. For long-trem "project bikes" and parts the best shed is one I built from an aluminum double-walled camper shell (insulated). I built up the sides with 1X8 redwood rough with 4x's at the corners. The shell fits over the frame to give a 6 1/2' ceiling. plywood floor over 2x6's finishes it off. The camper has a vent on top and windows for ventilation. Everything stays real dry and an overshadowing tree canopy is nice. Oh, I had to build a door for it, as the 'possums would find the makings of a great lair inside otherwise. Cost= 0$; the camper was free, the fence boards were castoffs, the floor was scrap plywood (with exterior glue). Scrounged the rest of it. The custom shed was a garden workroom until I took it over, with concessions, of course!
No "sweating" inside the shed, which is not the case with the metal, single thickness sheds, it's been my experience.
The main thing is that wood or plastic is way better for storing rustables. Keeping the sun and rain form dribbling into the frames and rims gives them half a chance.

   RE:RE:RE:Best way! posted by Wings on 5/20/2004 at 6:16:06 AM
Wow, I read those posts and have been there and still am there -- but not as bad.

I had a covered patio (24 by 24) that had bikes hanging all over and also sitting under the ones hanging. I had to remove the patio roof in order to reroof the house 1.5 years ago. So, I purchased one of those 12' by 20' car port tents and put it up in the back yard. Inside the tent I have a plywood floor and a bike rack running 24' down the length of the tent. Above the bike rack is pipe that holds wheel sets. But this did not take care of all the bikes from my patio!

So my patio also had a long bike rack with supports for a ridge pole and tarps covering all the bikes on the patio because one has to have a good tarp slope to drain the water off so it does not pool. (I am sure you know this! :) )

Well for 8 years I never could look out and see my lawn. Or barbecue on the patio. Or sit on the patio. I finally fixed up and gave away, or parted out the bikes on the patio so that for the first time in years I have no bikes on my patio!!!!!! It feels so good!!!!! My goal is to remove the tent in 1 year so I can have all my lawn back. I still have my sheds to store stuff in. :)

If I saw a field covered with bikes, campy sparkling in the grass, Schwinns sticking their cantilever frames up in the air -- I would do a 180 degree turn and step on the gas!!!! The temptation would be too great!!!!

I spent 10 minutes looking at a red Schwinn Sprint in excellent shape in a thrift store last week. I could see it sitting in my repair stand sparkling after a wax job. I was able to walk away! It took real courage sometimes!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Weinmann Brake Levers - with Safety Levers posted by: Gralyn on 5/18/2004 at 4:54:08 PM
I have a question concerning Weinmann brake levers with safety levers. I want to remove the safety levers - but instead of a screw holding the safety lever on (like most of the Dia-Compe's) there is a black plastic cap-thing. How do you get these off?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Weinmann Brake Levers - with Safety Levers posted by JONathan on 5/19/2004 at 2:29:32 AM
The plastic cap pops off witha little prying at the base. At first, I thought my exploration had produced a broken part (again!), but this is a cap designed to cover the end of what looks to be a rivet head. Dawgone, if I want to pry on that. I just figured it was part of the manufacture's effort to cut costs. There being so many lever assemblies floating around that I left this one be.
Reluctant to say, I actually use an extension equipped bike. I find them to fit well with my lazy cruising mode. Problem is remembering when you switch back to a mount lacking such luxuries. The plastic capped ones look better than the exposed screw types, IMHO. I figure these are exemplary vestiges of the bikeboom, and they appeared and disappeared along with it. Makes tape wraps harder! As and overall look, they detract, but mine are obscured by a handlebar pack and they keep the pack from pushing against my hands.

    Weinmann Brake Levers - with Safety Levers posted by John E on 5/19/2004 at 2:24:21 PM
When I bought my Nishiki SemiPro in 1971, I removed the suicide brake extensions, added gummed rubber Weinmann brake hoods, replaced the padded vinyl saddle with a tensioned leather Ideale, and replaced the 14-34 freewheel with a 15-28. CyclArt and others carry brand-new reproduction black hoods for old-fashioned non-aero Weinmann handles, but I have not been able to find NOS or reproduction gummed hoods, which would look great on my Capo and my Peugeot UO-8. (I put Weinmann handles on my UO-8 because they fit my hands perfectly, whereas the original Mafacs require a slightly longer reach than I can instantaneously, comfortably, and securely provide.)

   RE: Weinmann Brake Levers - with Safety Levers posted by Lenny on 5/19/2004 at 4:41:51 PM
Hi John,

As of late last year I was able to have a bike shop order both black and gum-rubber Dia-Compe brake hoods for me. If you don't mind the Dia-Compe branding on your Weinmann levers, they are very nice replacements. E-mail me if you can't find them locally.

Regards,
Lenny






AGE / VALUE:   Panasonic dx-1000 posted by: Elvis on 5/18/2004 at 1:04:13 PM
Hi all. Been forever since i posted.

Picked up [via trade for Raliegh Technium] a cool Panasonic DX-1000. The back bart is aqua like blue-green, fades to white in the front. 12 speed with clamp-on downtube shifters [indexed front, friction rear] and aero brake levers. Bottle mount on downtube. Frame marked at end of top tube near seat cluster "Custom painted for Panasonic". Any idea what year it is? I'm thinking mid-late 1980's...? Thanks for any info!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Panasonic dx-1000 posted by T-Mar on 5/19/2004 at 1:28:25 PM
Try dating coding the major components using the data on the Vintage Trek website. That's always my first measure in dating a bicycle, if it's not a major brand like Schwinn or Raleigh where frame serial number codes are readily available. If all the component codes are within a year of each other, then you have a high level of confidence that the components are original and represent the period of manufacture.







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ALL PRO.. Any info on who made this bike? posted by: Lisa on 5/18/2004 at 12:25:50 PM
Hi... Just picked up (at a garage sale) my bike I had when I was 8... 1970 or 71..Looks pretty rough, but still a thrill to find it.. The maker emblem is gone, but it says ALL PRO on the chain guard... Girl's bike, chartruese or lime green, with delicate white flowers stenciled down the mud guards and green ones on a white Banana seat.. Any info (or pictures !!!) would be appreciated as I am hoping to get it back to as close as I can when I saw it gleaming on my 8th Birthday.. (Also looking for a seat (cracked and rusted through)and sissy bar..Thanks so much! Lisa


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ALL PRO.. Any info on who made this bike? posted by Joel on 5/18/2004 at 3:49:17 PM
I believe that was a KMart brand. Probably a Murray or Huffy. If you can post a picture someone can ID it and help wit the parts.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ALL PRO.. Any info on who made this bike? posted by Joel on 5/18/2004 at 3:50:49 PM
ALSO: post this on the Musclebike forum.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ALL PRO.. Any info on who made this bike? posted by T-Mar on 5/18/2004 at 7:00:50 PM
Like Joel, I'd advise you try the Musclebike forum. I have some buyer's guides from that era, with over 5 dozen "hi-riser" models listed. It seems the white banana seat with flower motif was quite popular on the girl's models. AMF, Columbia, Iverson, Murray and Ross all had models with this saddle description. I couldn't find an 'All Pro' model.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ALL PRO.. Any info on who made this bike? posted by sam on 5/19/2004 at 4:12:14 PM
I bought an "All Pro" in 1970 at K-Mart--it was the racer type of bike--cost $29 new. So these were below the bottom of the bottom of bikes--still a good bike for a kid--never broke down--every one that needed a ride at collage took it --always got it back!---sam






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ALL PRO.. Any info on who made this bike? posted by: Lisa on 5/18/2004 at 12:25:50 PM
Hi... Just picked up (at a garage sale) my bike I had when I was 8... 1970 or 71..Looks pretty rough, but still a thrill to find it.. The maker emblem is gone, but it says ALL PRO on the chain guard... Girl's bike, chartruese or lime green, with delicate white flowers stenciled down the mud guards and green ones on a white Banana seat.. Any info (or pictures !!!) would be appreciated as I am hoping to get it back to as close as I can when I saw it gleaming on my 8th Birthday.. (Also looking for a seat (cracked and rusted through)and sissy bar..Thanks so much! Lisa







MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by: JONathan on 5/18/2004 at 5:43:58 AM
I have what appears to be a late '70's Peugeot mixte that has me wondering about the thread direction of the fixed cup. Seems that I read that a Swiss threaded fixed cup appeared on some of the Peugeots. Thanks for any info. I had the thing clamped real good in the vise and as I turned the frame counter-clockwise (Rt. hand thread) the situation got real tough. I think the cup moved a tiny, tiny bit, but then it locked up and the whole bench started moving. I did not want to pull the BB clean off, so I stopped. Darkness forced me to break off any further attempt at removing the cup, although I could have switched on the lights. These operations are best performed without shadows, so I just left the whole thing set up. Then I started thinking about the Swiss threads. If I did not want the Stronglight cranks and BB for a UO-8, I would leave it alone. Were some of these setup with Swiss BB threads?
Either way, that cup is coming off, I just want to have it useable condition when it does. Thanks for any advise. I have the "bolt trick" in the wings, but I think the vise can handle it.
Thanks, again.
JONathan


   RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by Randy on 5/18/2004 at 7:35:01 AM
Hi Jonathan, boy your story sound so much like my own with a older Peugeot one time, I am pretty shure you are looking at Swiss threading with a U-O8, could not be positive but I am pretty shure they were, you know if the fixed cup is in good shape you might leave it as sometimes those old Peugeot BB shells were not the greatest I had a Pkn10 that needed the fixed cup replaced by the time I got it out the threads were not good on that side, but you may be okay if you have figured out it is unthreading like a english fixed cup that is coming out right hand instead of the normal way threading runs, but if you ever get that cup out if you want to upgrade or something I would put a good bb back in and leave it then, I noticed also in those days like I say the bb shells sometimes were not good, did your bb feel okay and all that was in there? like I say unless you wanted to upgrade it is going to be a tough call on that there, I know I am not really being helpful but just trying to offer up a bit of advice for you there on it, hope whichever way you choose goes well though let us know here.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by JONathan on 5/18/2004 at 8:31:49 AM
Thanks, Randy. I'll make a note for, as you pointed out, the possibility of replacing the whole omess. The shell is very thin walled, as you indicated, a likely candidate for replacement. Too thin for a rethreading, I think. Looks real good inside the shell. This bike was not used very much. The brake shoes, although a bit brittle from age, have hardly any wear. The spindles, bearings (22 @ 1/4") and cups are like new. The Stronglight 52/40 crank setup is what I'm after, but the mixte could be rebuilt using a lessor grade of crank and slightly used BB that I have from a wrecked AO-8.
These Stronglights are going to be lookin good on a late '60's UO-8 (white) that is a pet project. The cottered cranks are off and the fixed cup was beat pretty good. This one will bolt right in there. The BB shell is stronger on this one. These Peugeots need an even hand to keep from busting something; unlike the Raleighs of the same period. Nothing rides like these Peugeots after they get fixed up with decent components. Worth the effort, but not that much fun as the Raleighs and Japanese bikes for working on. I'll post what happens, after I have another go. I think you are correct in surmising a Swiss threading. I'll operate on that assumption for starters.
These mixtes are pretty light frames for a gas pipe build. This one is all European components (Simplex, Weinmann, Atax and Stronglight) with stem shifters, half-chromed forks, flat crown and more curved lugs. I'm guessing late '70's, although the tubes are "Carbolite 103". Early '80's? Wheels are Rigida.
Thanks, JONathan

    Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by John E on 5/18/2004 at 2:03:05 PM
As I have mentioned in previous posts, the only concrete facts I can offer are that Peugeots definitely used French BB threading through 1975, and that my 1980 PKN-10, my Carbolite 103 internally lugged UO-10 (??), and my externally-lugged, repainted AO-9/10 (??) have Swiss threading. I heard elsewhere that Motobecane changed over to Swiss threading ca. 1977, and that Peugeot saw the light a year or two later.

You may be able to ascertain thread direction by putting a long tool with a sharp 90-degree tip into the BB shell from the left side, feeling for the fixed cup threads, and then following along the thread to see whether the tool gets pulled away from you or towards you. You could make such a tool either by bending just the very tip of a long awl or by cutting the head off of a surplus bicycle spoke and sharpening the cutoff end on a grinding wheel.

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by RobA on 5/18/2004 at 5:25:07 PM
...just adding a bit to what John E. says, you could use putty or something similar, then try to pick up and discern the thread direction....I've heard of such a technique being used, though I haven't had to try that...so far I've been lucky, I guess...my rule of thumb is old French and all Italian, right hand; anything else..left...gee, unless newer Italian has changed??? ..I haven't touched any recent Italian BBs yet...:)... In any event proceed carefully, even when you think you're sure, it's easy to get yourself twisted around....sometimes when I take off freewheels,(I use the "remover clamped in a vise" approach), the fact I'm looking at it from the back makes me think, initially, I should be twisting clockwise...

   RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by JONathan on 5/18/2004 at 6:21:10 PM
Thanks, Randy, John E. and RobA. Your input has set me straight. Early this morning, I reset the arrangement making sure that the jaws were correct on the fixed cup shoulder, the frame was parallel and that it was rock solid. The problem of note is that unless the setup is working perpendicular to the plane of the jaws, the whole mess will climb right out when you eally have to lean on it.
Operating under the assumption that it was Swiss threaded, based on the posts (thanks), I turned the bike clockwise. It was in there to saty, but at almost when I was thinking the worst, it started to move. That was the ticket! Swiss threaded. Things worked out great. Now, the problem exists with the UO-8. I think it was the R-R threaded sheel, if I remember correctly. It's been a while since it was on the stand.
Either way it is all good. I can always use the setup on my UO-8 "carbolite" regular frame. The mixte frame is 22+1/2 inches (C-T), which is small for me. It is in near mint condition, so it'll be a keeper for a later refit for the right rider. I'm really proud of myself for checking here, first. I would have probably ended it with neither a useable frame nor a useable cup. John E., I am sure it was one of your posts that got me to think about the possiblity.
Those tidbits of mechanical wizardry will come in handy. Putty? Now that is imaginative. I got to remember that one for sure. I also have a lot of busted spokes to fashion a thread tester. Thanks, again.
JONathan
BTW, there was something rattlin' up and down inside the down-tube (I think). All the stuff I took off has been accounted for and so...? Anybody had that happen? It doesn't sound like a ball bearing. Maybe brazing slag.

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by T-Mar on 5/18/2004 at 6:44:48 PM
I have note in my binder that Peugeots with steel, cottered cranks have Swiss threaded bottom brackets when the cups are gold tinted. I can't recall where I got this, probably the Peugeot rep. Can anyone else confirm this?

    Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by John E on 5/18/2004 at 9:21:54 PM
The original (Swiss) fixed cup on my 1980 PKN-10E is indeed gold-tinted, and the original (French) fixed cup on my 1973 UO-8 is indeed chromed. The (Swiss) cups on my UO-x and Carbolite 103 specimens, however, are chromed, breaking T-Mar's pattern. Perhaps the gold tint is a model year 1980 feature ...

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by Randy on 5/18/2004 at 11:08:45 PM
Jonathan, you have me so curious now, so it was Swiss theaded? reason why I am so interested in all this is because my sister in law bought a couple of U-O8's and was wanting me to over haul them, so I would kind of like to know for shure myself, I think if I remember right my PkN10 had a gold fixed cup, that is from some of the other posts today here there might be something to that, either way drop a line and let me know here as I could only imagine what you have been going through there trying to get that cup out.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by JONathan on 5/19/2004 at 12:30:52 AM
I'm building a knowledge base off this line. A little can be devastating, but a lot can only make the situation more "If, Then" as opposewd to "What, If".
The "gold, fixed cup" is nowhere present on this "carbolite 103" lugged frame. Pushing more toward a general case, rather than exception. This one has semi-ornate lugwork and flat chromed plate crwon. The other UO-X(X)'s and UE-X(X)'s in my group have either squareish with cutouts lugs or no lugs visible externally. This mixte is near 1980, I'd guess from the components.
Even the pedals are European (W. German). The "carbolites" in the 80's have Japanese components, at least in my cases. The UO-18 that is my frequent ride has no lugs visible and it has Shimano derailers and shifters with Nervar alloy cranks and chainrings. I would consider John E.'s surmise to be indicative of a general class with the later "carbolites" having chromed fixed cups as being Swiss threads.
In your overhaul, hopefully the issue will remain academic. Taking those off was not part of the scheduled maintenance. I say leave em be unless they're messed up. I was impressed with the Stronglight cranks being on this mixte. They must have run short of the cheaper cranks or something. They are not the branded Peugeot Stronglights. These are the real thing. These mixtes can really climb the hills, man.
Only problem with the one I run is the rear Mailllard "helicomatics" need constant spoke adjustments; literally every run. I carry a spoke wrench in my pocket. No breaks, but you can't let them go out for very long. The pedals spin close to the deck; my toe catches sometimes if my shoe overhangs the leading edge too much, but the low cg makes them tight rides. Good luck,
JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by T-Mar on 5/19/2004 at 1:57:40 PM
I overlooked something in my earlier post on the gold tinted cups. The tinting does NOT apply to Stronglight bottom brackets. Most Stronglight fixed cups from the '70s and early '80s are easily recognizable by their 8 flats. In the case of Swiss threads there are no engraved rings on the cup, whereas a French threaded Stronglight fixed cup will have a single engraved ring. In all cases the cups will be a chrome or silver colour.

The gold tinted fixed cups with Swiss threading refers to non-Stronglight bottom brackets. I'm not sure if it is Nervar or TA product. Neither company appears to have manufactured Swiss threaded fixed cups as a standard product, unlike Stonglight.

John E., if you recheck those Swiss threaded cups, I'm hoping you'll find that the tinted cups are made by a different company than the chrome cups. It would be nice to establish some validity for the tinted cups, even if it has to be qualified by manufacturer.

JONathan, I apologize for not posting this sooner, as it may have aided in identifying the Swiss threading. Unfortunately, I did not pay close enough attention to your original post, and did not pick up on the Stronglight reference.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot late '70's BB threading posted by JONathan on 5/20/2004 at 1:40:09 AM
No problem, Tom. If anything has been learned about bikeboom bikes, it is center-focused on anything is possible. Just seeing a Stronglight crank set on a plebeian mount was good suppoting evidence.
I've also learned that anyone can explore, but to do so intelligently is more like an art form. Understanding the medium is essential for success. I can't count how many bikes that I've really messed up, because of the former condition. The availability of cheap stock is another plus. Thanks to all, here, I've progressed more toward the latter condition.
So, to me, it's more than working on "junk bikes"; rather it is learning how to learn that can be applied to anything. I guess that's why I really like the hobby. It is real-time problem solving for fun and it has useful application. Thanks,
JONathan






AGE / VALUE:   a few things posted by: marc on 5/18/2004 at 4:33:08 AM
Here's an update on the mystery raleigh I posted about a few weeks ago. With the info given to me here and a few other places, I am fairly convinced that it is a 1973 gran sport. I was able to find a used inner chainring for the stronglight 93 crankset for 14.00, not bad. I thought about making it a fixed gear like the previous owner but decided to "update" it a bit.

I put a set of titan trek annodized wheels on it. The rear is helicomatic and with its narrow spacing the gran sport is now a 12 speed. The front wheel has a very nice maillard 700 hub on it. I fitted these with some blackwall bontrager tires.

Last week I picked up a suteki mixte in near mint, practically unused condition. It's a bit of a paradox as it has decent component, shimano 600 derailleurs but no hanger. It's hard for me to believe this bike retailed for 400.00 in the mid eightes. It's a sacrifice now as I've parted it out. I used the shimano tourney center pulls on the gran sport. These are a pain to set up but I think they work pretty well. They will stay on until I find a matching front dura ace center pull caliper to match the rear I have. Anyone have one for sale or trade? The suteki also had a very nice gold seidis chain that seems to even have some of its original lube on it. This was cleaned and put on the gran sport.

I had a set of 1983 suntour superbe pro derailleurs I recently aquired so that went on the gran sport. I've heard some complaints about suntour derailleurs but i have to say they've always done a stupendous job on their shifters. The downtube shifters I have on the gran sport are great, very firm, very responsive. I may go with bar cons however. I also picked up a nice set of aero levers.

I have to say I'm quite pleased with the results. It looks quite sharp and sporty. The paint is a bit rough and I will have it repainted eventually. It handles quite nicely, I love those suntour derailleurs, some of the best friction equipment ever made. I haven't taken out much except for a quick test ride but I'm sure it won't dissapoint.

I made another nice little find today. I picked up an all original, minus the seat, motobecane super mirage. I have to admit i haven't seen one of these in person before, I was surprised a frame made of 2040 steel had a derailleur hanger. It's in nice untouched shape, moto badged cranks, bars, leather or simulated leather bar wrap made by hutchinson, and alloy seat post. I mainly picked it up for the weinmann concave wheels with reinforced nipple holes. I plan on using them on another raleigh. It's a nice bike, but I really don't want to make the space for it. I'm offering it up to anyone here before it makes its way onto ebay. Make me an offer, you can have everything but the wheels, but I'll listen to offers for them as well. will listen to trade offers, the frame is in the 52-55 cm range. I haven't measured it yet. I can send pictures.

I've been re-wrapping the bars on many of bikes with cinelli cork tape over the past week. Looking at the instructions it occurred to me that it would be easier and more attractive to begin to wrap the tape starting in the center of the bars and tucking the the tape into the ends of the bars. This is of course different from the cinelli instructions but isn't this how it was done in days gone by? It's also more attractive than using tape, especially electrical tape to finish off. Is there any reason other than starting the tape in the middle may be too "difficult" for some people today?

Just a thought

marc


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   a few things posted by Gralyn on 5/18/2004 at 4:52:28 PM
So far as wrapping bar tape: I have wondered, too - is there an advantage of starting on the ends of the bars - working inward...then finishing off with tape? ....as opposed to starting in the middle - and working to the end...then tucking in and plugging?????

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   a few things posted by marc on 5/18/2004 at 5:13:37 PM
well someone emailed me and said that starting the tape in the center leaves the overlapped edges in a position where the downward pressure of your hands may cause the tape to loosen. Well, on the gran sport I started one end at the end and the other in the middle. A bit of an experiment I suppose. We'll see what happens.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bottecchia - Update posted by: Gralyn on 5/17/2004 at 3:13:59 PM
Just an update on the Bottecchia:
I have started re-assembling. The rear cogs were pretty crappy-looking - so I had thought I would replace it with a hyper-glide-type 6-speed (13-24). Well, it wouldn't work - because there wasn't enough space between the small cog and the chainstay. I ended-up re-building the original 5-speed. I turned out OK - a lot better than I thought it would.

When I put the ders back on, the shifters and cables - the cable housings are gray, more flexible-type housing. The brake cable housings were black. Any idea if this bike would have originally had all the same color housings? Would it be typical to have gray housings for the gearing - and black for the brakes? I suspect the gray (they look like an older type) are the original. The black plastic ones may have been added later.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bottecchia - Update posted by T-Mar on 5/17/2004 at 7:54:51 PM
My 1972 Bottechia catalogue shows matching brake and derailleur cable housing on all the racing bicycles, though it's difficult to tell if it's white or grey. However, I suspect it should be grey, as that appeared to be the standard colour supplied with Universal brakes in the '70s.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bottecchia - Update posted by Gralyn on 5/17/2004 at 8:30:57 PM
Yes, the der cable housings seem similar to some older housings I have on some older - at least very early 70's bikes. They are more flexible. The black plastic housings on the brakes are much stiffer - and resemble those from later 70's and 80's.

I may have a time finding some old gray housings.






AGE / VALUE:   OXFORD(?) bike? posted by: Ryan on 5/17/2004 at 2:06:41 PM
Hello,
I recently aquired an OXFORD bike from a neighbor. He said this bike was about 70 years old. How can I go about finding parts or information on this bike? I have looked all over the internet with no luck :(

Thanks very much.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   OXFORD(?) bike? posted by Steven on 5/18/2004 at 12:52:22 AM
Where is the bike from? There has been an Oxford bike company in Chile for a very long time. Perhaps if you describe the components, somebody will be able to help you. You should also be aware that many bike components aredate coded on the hub axles, lock rings, cones etc.






AGE / VALUE:   Colnago Super posted by: Randy on 5/16/2004 at 10:06:24 AM
Hi, thought I would ask here, I recently aquired a Colnago super frameset, the seller though it to be a early 1970's model and I am shure they must be correct about this, now I am wondering how I could ever date this frame, it is Columbus Tubing and the decal is a very old style decal, I have not seen much on the net about dating Colnago frames but would like to get a idea of the age of the frame, I have built it up with Campagnolo Nuovo Record components and is a very fine bike for shure, if someone out there maybe could help on dating the frame would appreaciate it, I could supply pics of the decals and also the Columbus tubing decal, the frame is before my time at least before I had ever gotten into high quality bikes, and is hard for me to judge the year on this model, also the frame has never been refinshed which to me was a A+ as I do not like repaints, but anyway any one out here who is into Italian bikes if you could help would appreaciate it thanks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Colnago Super posted by Derek Coghill on 5/17/2004 at 11:38:39 PM
Have you tried asking Colnago themselves?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Colnago Super posted by Randy on 5/18/2004 at 7:23:26 AM
Hi, thanks for the reply, you know I had someone email me that was very helpful I am shure he reads the discussion area here, I am not shure if Colnago could tell me or not but you know might go to the website, I have never tried that idea before but is worth a try glad you metioned it,Randy

     Colnago Super posted by John E on 5/18/2004 at 2:11:32 PM
In researching the background of my various classic bicycles, I have had no luck with the manufacturers themselves, although Harald Cap (capo.at, no "www") did give me rough production volume figures for his father's 1960s era Capos. The Italian and American Bianchi websites were worthless, and I got almost all of the information on my Schwinn mountain bike from a discussion forum and from www.firstflightbikes.com.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Colnago Super posted by Randy on 5/18/2004 at 11:15:19 PM
Hi John E, I think you are correct there I went to the Colnago website not much there other than a brief history about Colnago and then showing what they make now, is too bad that they don't offer up at least a picture gallery of the bikes of years ago, well either way I like my old Colnago Super I may never know the exact year it was made but for shure I think have figured out it is a for shure 70's model.






AGE / VALUE:   its me again.....:) posted by: donna on 5/16/2004 at 4:06:57 AM
just updating...I found out it is mfg by h.p. synder co...and the hub has a pat. which I looked up to be dater feb.of 1962...still dont know when it was made...and what its worth:(







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Eddy Merckx coming to Charlotte, NC posted by: Maurice on 5/15/2004 at 2:09:10 AM
Just a heads up for all of the old-school cyclists out there - according to the May 8th Sports section of the Charlotte Observer, cycling Legend and 5 time Tour De France Champion Eddy Merckx will make a rare appearance in Charlotte August 7th, 2004 to start the 1st annual Bk of America Criterium. Should be a great opportunity to meet the Belgian cycling Great. Hope this bulletin encourages fellow regional cycling enthusiasts to attend the event.

See you there,
Maurice







AGE / VALUE:   help:) I just found a MOHAWK bike 3 speed posted by: donna on 5/14/2004 at 7:16:23 PM
I just found a 3 speed bike with 22" rimmed wheels...it has a indian head with sweeping feathers....thats reads MOHAWK on the chain guard...On the frame itself it has two more lables with the mohawk name and a R for rights reserved symbol. And it has a red white and blue band where it says mohawk on the frame...its a copper light brown in color...I cant seem to find any info on it...can you help...I have pics if you need thanks donna


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   help:) I just found a MOHAWK bike 3 speed posted by JONathan on 5/15/2004 at 7:49:19 AM
The name has a ring, but I can't recall where. Does it look like a utility bike? Check the rear hub for a date if it is Sturmey-Archer. There will be a two digit number near the stamped logo on the drum. Is it a heavy bike?
What stops it? Any stamps on the rims (look near the stem) for make and style. 22" tires could be utility. Some industrial messenger/transport bikes for use inside big plants save lots of time for the company. These are usually 1 speed, at least the ones I've seen.
If it is not over 40 pounds, then it could be an intermediate bike for kids. How does it ride? Check to see if it a folding bike. There will be a hinged joint between the seat and the head-tube. I have a Peugeot "Nouvous Sport" folder with tires about that size.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   help:) I just found a MOHAWK bike 3 speed posted by Joe on 5/17/2004 at 6:51:34 AM
I seem to recall Mohawk bikes being sold by one of the tire dealers around here as a kid, sort of like the Western Auto Parts Western Flyers. I'm not sure which one it was. They were fairly common for a while (late 60's early 70's), since they were an inexpensive bike.






AGE / VALUE:   help:) I just found a MOHAWK bike 3 speed posted by: donna on 5/14/2004 at 7:16:23 PM
I just found a 3 speed bike with 22" rimmed wheels...it has a indian head with sweeping feathers....thats reads MOHAWK on the chain guard...On the frame itself it has two more lables with the mohawk name and a R for rights reserved symbol. And it has a red white and blue band where it says mohawn on the frame...its a copper light brown in color...I cant seem to find any info on it...can you help...I have pics if you need thanks donna