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Archived: Vintage Lightweights
AGE / VALUE: Age / Value of Schwinn Premis
posted by: Peter
on 6/17/2004 at 12:49:56 AM
| I am currently enjoying my Schwinn Premis, that I was lucky|
enough to find at a garage sale ... but I am curious to know
what they sold for originally, and if anyone can tell me
how you might be able to tell what year it was made ...
the serial # starts with an "A" located under the crank ...the frame is silver and white in color ... the guy I bought it from said he thought it was about 8 years old ... Does this make sense to anyone ???
( I am not selling this bike so if you are intersested in buying one ... you need not ask ... sorry )
thanks to all who replied to my last questions about this bike ...
happy riding to all !!!
AGE / VALUE: Batavus Champion
posted by: Krister
on 6/16/2004 at 10:41:30 PM
| I just aquired a Batavus Champion, but I don't know anything about it. It looks like it is from the late 60's, and it is in great shape. Any ideas?|
AGE / VALUE: 1952 schwinn traverler
posted by: marc
on 6/16/2004 at 7:49:59 PM
| I was working on my 1952 schwinn traveler this past weekend and need some advice. I changed the brake cables, cleaned the calipers, oiled the cable housing and the rear brake still sticks. I'm thinking about just replacing the caliper, possibly with something similar to what's there, ye olde english sidepulls. I've also thought about just updating it a bit and get some higher quality sidepulls. I have a j.c. higgins 3 speed of the same vintage with some very nice weinamnn alloy sidepulls. Any better ideas?|
The chromed wheels are in very nice shape except they both have a nasty ding in them that you can definately feel when you squeeze the brakes. Anyone have a good way to get rid of these dings? I know the local tire shop has a hand tool to straighten car rims, I've been tempted to take a wheel out there and see what they can do with it.
I've decided to make it a pseudo clubman. It looks great, especially with "winged" decals, it actually looks alot older. When I cleaned the chain for the first time I noticed that it has a "master" link. Everything on the bike appears to be original including the chain. Does anyone know when "master" links were first introduced? I guess it just goes to show there are no new ideas.
The bike came with a generator light set, which I don't know if it was stock but it definately is from that period. The brand is Melas and made in germany. The generator is fork front mount, the headlight is stem mounted and of course there is a taillight. The headlight is chrome while it appears the taillight is alloy. Unfortunately the inards are missing from the tailight but I may be able to rig something. Anyone ever hear of this brand before? and anyone have any parts for this brand? It appears that the generator is broken as there is no switch to engage it.
3 speed "club" bikes
posted by Elvis on 6/17/2004 at 1:41:13 PM
| Got a somewhat newer Schwinn 3-spd, the "Collegiate", lugged frame. These things are great! I love the old "roadster" [someone here said "cruiser" is the wrong term] feel. But... I am, however, contemplating the "club bike" idea myself. All I need is drop bars that'll fit the stem, right?|
VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Newer Schwinn
posted by: stefan
on 6/16/2004 at 8:11:49 PM
| I have a Schwinn that is completely chrome, 27 inch wheels. Unknown components. Lugged frame. What can anyone tell me about it? |
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Newer Schwinn
posted by marc on 6/16/2004 at 8:42:24 PM
| it could be a paramount or a letour. what kind of components does it have?|
: Newer Schwinn
posted by John E on 6/17/2004 at 2:31:11 PM
| The serial number can help us identify it, as well. Chicago, Waterford (Paramount), Greenville MS, and Matsushita/Panasonic all used different serial numbering schemes for the Schwinn frames they built.|
VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Looking for European parts supplier
posted by: Bob
on 6/16/2004 at 3:16:25 AM
| Any pointers to vendors that sell French & other European components ? I'm looking for stuff for an early 70's Raleigh. |
I need to find an old (frame) pump... Zefal would be nice... some tubular tires, rim tape, perhaps a 6 speed Euro freewheel... some Weinnman brake hoods and maybe some brake pads.
I can't bring myself to put Japanese components on this classic!
Any pointers to suppliers that still carry Euro stuff ?
RE: Looking for European parts supplier
posted by Elvis on 6/16/2004 at 2:12:37 PM
| Have 2 Zefal punps. One is beat up but works, kind of... one looks mint but has some internal problem and doesn't function.|
Weinman brake levers; hoods were easy finds a few years back for me on junk finds / yard sale bikes, but I haven't seen many lately.
Your best bet is to try a website like Velo Stuff or maybe even the sale page here at Oldroads. either that, or check your area for old-timers and other bike hounds. There's a guy a half mile from my house hwo always has like 40 bikes for sale or trade, and though most are clunkers he always puts the good ones aside for me. Establish a friendly interaction, chat a while, and see what happens. I got my hands on lots of vintage parts and bikes this way.
RE:RE: Looking for European parts supplier
posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/16/2004 at 9:11:43 PM
| eBay.. eBay..eBay|
Loaded with '70s bike components. NOS Zefal pumps are on offer every week. Check out the auctions by the Dutch based Renaissance Cycles... it's like a virtual 1970s era bike shop.
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Looking for European parts supplier
posted by Bob on 6/16/2004 at 11:27:52 PM
| Thanks for the pointers... do you have a URL for "velo stuff"? I'm new at this. I will check out Ebay. Does anyone ride tubular tires anymore ? |
I have to admit that I was shocked to find out how dated my bike really was/is... I haven't paid attention to any of this in 15 years. Boy, things have changed! Time to get cycling again, even though I'm riding an antique!
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Looking for European parts supplier
posted by ralph on 6/17/2004 at 4:08:37 AM
| you could always try our shop too, I try to keep it up to date. We are based out of Philadelphia|
Almost all parts are Pre-1980.
AGE / VALUE: Fuji find
posted by: JB
on 6/15/2004 at 8:24:18 PM
| Found a Fuji Special Touring at Sal. Army...cleaned up nice..has Suntour GT rear der.,Suntour 7 front, Drop forged Dia Comp center-pull brakes,Nitto stem/bars,lugged frame, and the skinniest rims I have ever seen on an old ten-speed. It rides, and shifts very smooth. Anyone tell me about the age and where the Touring fell in Fuji line-up? Much as I like my old French Simplex set-up..this is the second Suntour (I have a Moto-Mirage) geared bike...and there is just no comparison in the shifting... |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Fuji find
posted by Bryant on 6/16/2004 at 11:28:42 AM
| I picked up an Orange Fuji Special Touring a few years back and gave it to my daughter. I've since upgraded it with alloy QR wheels and a 3 piece cotterless crank (I believe it came with a cottered crank). When I was rebuilding it I was impressed with the quality. Loose bearings in the headset and bottom bracket, those cool old brake releases, the chain hanger in the back all little things that showed this was a quality bike. Since then I've offered my daughter other bikes but she won't give this one up. She says she gets more compliments on the cool bike than any of her friends with their mountain bikes. I think you made a real find. Date wise I believe it was an early 70's according to component dating.|
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Fuji find
posted by JONathan on 6/16/2004 at 5:57:36 PM
| When Fuji makes a touring bike, that's exactly what it is, IMHO. A touring craft needs to run good loaded up and on some variable terrain as the need arises. I saw touring model of similar vintage that looked like a tough customer. One can see those "ancient" Fuji's pushing blacktop, with changed out components, because the previous sets were run into the ground. I would fix that one up and park my Schwinn "traveler". I cannot find ANY for sale. They're all on the road? Beats me. My brother rides a "pulsar" (same vintage) that is a sport runner; very comfortable. I's like to horse trade, but he's keeping that one. Bulldog and hambone comes to mind.|
You done great. I'm stopping by a sal. army store, later. Maybe one will show up, but I ain't counting on it.
I got my Team Fuji, so that's some consolation.
RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Fuji find
posted by JB on 6/17/2004 at 2:05:10 AM
| Thanks Bryan and Jonathon for the imput on the Fuji...took it on a 10 mile roll today...country ride...hills and all...the true test was the Doberman who gave chase..smoked that sucker...laughed as he gave it up....this bike will definitely command some ride time..|
AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Prelude
posted by: John S
on 6/15/2004 at 6:18:16 AM
| Picked up a Schwinn Prelude. Can anyone help with some info on this model? Where in Schwinn's line-up?|
It's in excellent, I think original condition. SunTour Edge groupo: brakes, hubs?,shifting and cranks - 14 speed Accushift. Figure that puts it in the late 80's or early 90's, but not sure. Lugged frame has a Columbus Tenax tubing sticker. SR bar/stem and pillar. 700x25c Schwinn Record tyres. Pretty cool ride all around. Flea market find it was. I just don't have much luck in garage sales.
RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Prelude
posted by Elvis on 6/16/2004 at 1:01:33 PM
| Accushift sound like 1980s, as I recall having such shifters in my parts box, came offa 1970's bike that had been upgraded with 1980's parts -- same bike also had a "biopace" chainring/crank combo [another 1980's thing].|
Columbus tubing is a good sign, I had an old campy equipped Trek with it, that was light!
14 speed means 7 rear gears? Definately not before the 1980's. Most of my bikes from before then have 6 at the most.
The 700c rims are also a sign it is 1980s, probably late 1980s, I recently parted ways with a superb Scyhwinn LeTour from 1984-85 and it was 27" rims on it, though alloy QR at that. All told sound like late 1980's, but in all honesty I've never heard of that particular model before.
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Prelude
posted by Ken on 6/16/2004 at 5:48:19 PM
| According to Frank J. Berto (author of The Dancing Chain, right?) in his treatise Sunset for SunTour, the Edge gruppo was introduced in 1989, and there was no SunTour indexed road group before 1987. There's a fabulous grid of when the various companies introduced different features, too:|
RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn Prelude
posted by John S on 6/16/2004 at 11:45:40 PM
| Thanks Elvis, Ken, though I could not cut/paste to the site. I had guessed 1990 plus or minus. The bike does have SunTour's "Ovaltech" chainrings. |
VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Raleigh Routier
posted by: Gralyn
on 6/15/2004 at 1:34:29 AM
| OK, I spot this Raleigh Routier today. It looks to be more low-end. It doesn't have 531 tubing, or even an indication of ChroMo....It's not 20-30....but something like 18-30...I can't remember. It has a steel, stamped chainring with Custom cranks. Hurret downtube shifters (wow!, not stem shifters). It has Weinmann levers with safety levers, that foam rubber grip instead of bar tape. Weinmann side pulls, Hurret ders. Selle Royal saddle, bolt-on wheels (no QR).|
.....now the good stuff: The bike looks practically brand new! Beautiful dark red finish, with white head tube, the wheels are shinny and new looking, it has nice chrome fenders that look new, a nice rear rack, the Weinmann side pulls look brand new. It even has Presta valves. The tires are dry-rotted (Raleigh-branded....most likely original). It has drop bars, down-tube shifters as stated above.
I have never heard of this model of bike. I'm not sure how old it is. Maybe it's early 80's.....early-to-mid would be my guess. Has anyone heard of this model?
The price was good - I justs couldn't resist - with it looking so good. It was a nice addition - as I don't have a bike with shinny chrome fenders.
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Raleigh Routier
posted by T-Mar on 6/17/2004 at 12:22:26 PM
| I am not familiar with a Raleigh Routier, but it would appear to be a 1980's entry level model, as you suggest. Raleigh introduced their 18-23 high tensile steel tubing sometime in the early 1980s. Unfortuantely, I don't known the exact year of introduction. However, depending on the year, the mid range bicycles would have used some combination of Reynolds tubing, Tretubi 531 butted or 531 plain gauge in the early '80s and 501 in the later on. So it's obviously entry level based on the tubing. You should be able to find some date codes on the components, which you can use to establish the model year.|
VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by: P.C. Kohler
on 6/14/2004 at 4:08:57 PM
| I am getting a 1973 Cinelli Speciale Corsa. This has cork handlebar tape.... I assume this is not prototypical for a machine of this era. Did Cinellis have the standard cloth bar tape as new? Thanks.|
Cinelli bar tape
posted by John E on 6/14/2004 at 8:25:40 PM
| You cannot go wrong putting standard old-fashioned black cloth tape on any mid-to-high-end road bike of that vintage.|
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by jack on 6/15/2004 at 2:16:50 AM
| Congrat's Peter!!!,|
Now please excuse what I'm about to write:
Vintage Cinellis came with handlebars wrapped in fine Corinthian leather stitched with silk thread in the classic herringbone pattern. Since the gentleman from Milano who did this work has long passed (and naturally took the secret process with him), cloth tape will have to do.
Here's a tip though, since the cloth tape alone affords little padding for our middle-aged and soft hands, wrap padded or other then cloth on top for best of both worlds.
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by T-Mar on 6/15/2004 at 12:52:48 PM
| No, you don't have to resort to cloth tape! Bikeville ( http://www.bikeville.com/stems.html ) sells a leather handlebar wrap kit. Yes, it's expensive ($65.00 US), and yes, you do have sew it on. No, I haven't used it, so I don't know how close it is to the Cinelli tape. However, it's the only leather wrap I've seen, outside of some cheaper, zippered wrap. BTW, congratulations on your purchase. |
RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by tod on 6/15/2004 at 2:46:58 PM
| Does anybody know how to work with that leather cover for bars.. The bianchi i just picked up a has the original leather in great condition... problem is i just noticed a crack in the stem... So that is going to have to be replaced.. So is there a way to take one side off and put it back on?|
RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/15/2004 at 7:23:42 PM
| Leather handlebar tape as standard? I knew buying a Cinelli Speciale Corsa (I really bought it just to keep saying that!) was out of my league but....! Many thanks for the tips. I can't sew-on a button let alone leather bar tape but plain cloth tape seems almost phillistine. I guess I'll have to invest in Giorgio Armani cycle clothing next.|
This machine has a Regina five-speed 13-16-20-24-27 freewheel which is way too wide ratio for my cycling habits... if anyone has a Regina 13-21 or so they want to sell, please contact me off list.
RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by sam on 6/15/2004 at 10:03:38 PM
| You can take the boy out of the country(UK),but you can't take the country(UK) out of the boy!|
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by T-Mar on 6/16/2004 at 4:22:12 AM
| If you can't sew, then you'll be spending a fortune on new tubular tires! But then again, if you can afford a vintage Cinelli, you can probably afford new tires every other week. Don't mind me, I'm just rambling because I'm JEALOUS!!!. |
RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/16/2004 at 4:42:58 AM
| Yes, I was rather expecting to turn over the care and feeding of my Cinelli to the stableboy.|
At least I paid less in 2004 dollars than the machine originally cost in 1973: $540. Not a lot less, but enough for a few tubular tyres. I remember saving up my newspaper route money the following year to buy a $125 Peugeot UE-8. I sure didn't even know a bike could cost $500!
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by Walter on 6/16/2004 at 1:00:47 PM
| There are a few things I put on all bikes, even VLWs, that I ride. One is clipless pedals and the other is a padded, usually, cork, bartape.|
I don't own a Cinelli but do have a nice Italian VLW with a full S Record group and have "done that" to the bike. In the unlikely event that I'll display the bike at a show it's not hard to replace pedals and rewrap bars.
posted by John E on 6/16/2004 at 3:17:32 PM
| There is no shame in putting updated, improved components on a classic frame, to enable one to get maximum riding enjoyment out of it. Keep the old parts, and do not do anything irreversible. Today's tyres, control cables, brake pads, and bar tapes are vastly super to yesteryear's. (All of you clipless fans would add pedals to my list, but I still live like a savage with old-fashioned toe clips.)|
RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cinelli bar tape
posted by RobA on 6/16/2004 at 5:19:09 PM
| I sort of agree with everyone here...except for show bikes, why not use the upgraded components, if it improves the riding experience?? Bar tape doesn't appear to be an issue with me...I don't seem to mind what it is ...cloth, padded, cork, cello, plastic, that foam slip-on type, rubber... leather I would try to avoid for ethical reasons, but that's just my view...if the bike came so equipped I would live with it... Now, pedals are a different matter...I think clipless pedals are such a dramatic improvement that you have to be a confirmed 'retro-grouch', not to acknowledge that...:) But for casual rides I don't mind the old style pedals and I also think, aesthetically, they are much more attractive than the clipless pedals. Brake pads I don't worry about very much...I have so many partially used pads lying around I just use what I have...though I do like the KoolStops...and view it as a plus if bike has them mounted...|
posted by JONathan on 6/16/2004 at 5:32:37 PM
| Good luck, whichever way you choose to go. Personally, and this is not a suggestion, the real classic rides like your exquisite Cinelli, look cool with as much OEM as is feasible. Yes, even the toe-clip pedals. I actually find the convenience of wearing one pair of shoes all day to be a plus. Aside from the convenience, the clips allow considerable more freedom, which helps curb foot and ankle fatigue. Besides that, I can always beat 'em off the line for a good 50 yds. Then the Fuji's and Treks catch up and the cycle resets at the next red light. If you have two sets of wheels for different conditions that is another plus, IMHO. 700C-38 (if they'll fit) for everyday and for that weekend sport run, a set of 700C-25's or smaller will zip things along. What is so apparent, although modern high-end composite racing bikes have speed, there is nothing that matches the level of art, craftsmanship and "personality" one finds in the top of the line vinatge craft.|
Beautiful bike, indeed.
posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/16/2004 at 9:24:38 PM
| Sorry, guys... I wouldn't "update" anything on any of my machines. Ever. And certainly not a '73 Cinelli Speciale Corsa. That cork tape is history as soon as I get it in the house. I just like to experience the ride as it was originally intended. And I really, really like toe-clips, too. With Cinelli straps and buttons, too. And nice, traditional black leather cycling shoes. Little plain white socks. Wool shorts and jerseys. My only concession is a modern helmet.. I'm tempted to get a classic leather "hairnet" but what good does that do? Maybe if I could get a vintage '73 fractured skull, but I'd wind up with the 2004 one and miss the point completely.|
Worse still, I don't even have to try and be "retro"... 1973 is just about when my cycling era was frozen in time. I wouldn't even know how to use "clipless" pedals. I am not even used to braze-on water bottle boses. Waterbottles belong on your handlebars, right?
As for keeping up with the Jones's on their modern carbon-fibre thigys, well I don't want to turn this into the CR List with that tired old debate. Suffice to say I have never had a problem keeping up with classic lugged steel and "vintage" components.
P.C. Kohler, bona fide retro grouch
posted by JONathan on 6/17/2004 at 12:10:57 AM
| That's been my experience to the letter. Only riders who leave me as a speck on the screen would do so if they had been on a 1970 "record". I rahter suspect there are some top racers who may have taken an off the shelf bike to compete for fun. Ridng is more skill, conditioning and desire for speed. Most people can learn to ride a bike, but to master the skill takes a lot of fine-motor development, IMHO, of course. Easy to learn, hard to master. If I could 1/2 as good as a TDF rider from 30 years back, that would be good enough. On those toe-clips, I find that they are a bit of a nuisance sometimes. The double-sided pedal of high quality materials and construction was a good thing, not to be a "grouch", but because I'm just a lazy guy.|
Hey, I have a good report with someone who sews anything and everything, so that's how I get around the tricky handywork.
To do VLW's justice, it seems one needs to be a master of several crafts. Paint is the hardest, IMHO. I give up ever doing that right.
AGE / VALUE: 1960's Schwinn Supersport
posted by: Greg
on 6/14/2004 at 1:41:21 PM
| I recently given a 1960's Schwinn Supersport in need of a little maintenance. I will try to figure out the exact year of production tonight with the serial number list on this website. I was thinking of using the bike for riding, but I was concerned about the value. Is this a collectors item that I should be careful with or should I simply ride and enjoy it? |
1960's Schwinn Supersport
posted by John E on 6/14/2004 at 8:31:25 PM
| The problem with the SuperSport is that it looks too much like a Continental. It is indeed a decent bike to ride and enjoy, but unless yours is pristine, it is simply not a highly prized collectible. If it were mine, I would probably invest in an aluminum crank conversion kit, since the Ashtabula crankset is arguably the worst part of the bike, a cut below the frame and the wheelset.|
RE:AGE / VALUE: 1960's Schwinn Supersport
posted by jack on 6/15/2004 at 2:22:40 AM
| See my 6/12/04 posts and string on SS and ST.|
AGE / VALUE: Ross "Griffin" hybrid -- a good touring conversion?
posted by: Elvis
on 6/14/2004 at 1:27:34 PM
| Hey all. Last night i picked up a Ross Griffin, welded frame except for a lugged seat tube, canti brakes, dual h20 bottle mounts, and triple up front. 7 spd rear. 700c rims and eyelets for racks/fenders. It's red, and has riser bars like a moutnainbike. Looks like a hybrid. The chain is a solid block of rust and there is rust on the rear cassette, but with a new chain and a good wire brushing of the rear gears, it should clean up nice. i'm thinking about putting on drop bars with bar-end shifters and adding a rear rack and [possibly] fenders. Should make a good long range commuter or "touring" bike, right? |
posted by John E on 6/14/2004 at 8:28:05 PM
| I strongly endorse your plan to convert to drops with barcons, and the mudguards and rack are nice additions for any touring or commuting bike.|
Ross Restoration Begun!
posted by Elvis on 6/15/2004 at 2:14:01 PM
| Thanks, John! I actually began last night. Cleaned and touched up the frame, removed the rusty chain and handlebars/ stem, installed a cable stop and road handlebars/stem with aero brake levers and bar end shifters. Wires the brakes and shifters. Then i replaced the rear derailier with the only other triple compatable [long] one I had, an old suntour. Seems to move fine, but intil I throw ona chain won't know for sure. I then installed a rear rack. All it needs is new tires, a rear tube, and a chain, though the rear brakes need adjustment, lever sticks. It'll probably be done the end of this week, [I actually have to refurbish a beat up Nishiki -- I got someone to actually pay me to do that one! Amazing...! only problem, it takes time from MY bikes...] Can't wait to ride The Ross! ;) |
MISC: First voyage on restored bike!
posted by: Elvis
on 6/14/2004 at 1:05:44 PM
| Hey all! After putting on a new chain, grip tape, new rear tire, cleaning the aluminum as best I could, and getting some red touch-up paint at an auto store, my Specialized [lugged steel frame] Sirrus went for its first "real" ride today in NJ. I rode through the Watchung reservation, over the mountain almost to Westfield. It was great, the bike is awesome! After the ride I felt compelled to change the seat, installing a more comfy Specialized road seat. But the bike rides great, despite small rear gears, I find that if I use the 42 the hills are no problem, and the 105 components rock. The only modern touch was spd clipless pedals as I am so unused to toe clips, though i used to use them all the time...|
On a sadder note, I thinned the herd this weekend, parting with a Nishiki Modulus i'd grown to love, but whose role was taken by the Specialized, as well as a Bridgestone Kabuki road bike. But I had to make room for the new bikes!
AGE / VALUE: Peugeot Bordeux 12 speed
posted by: jon in DesMoines,wa
on 6/14/2004 at 6:12:05 AM
| Just picked up a peugeot and cant find any info on the model, Its a Bordeux, equiptment list;12 speed,shimano light action rear derailer, shimano no I.D. ft derailer,nervar cotterless crank,Etrto 700 rims, maillard hubs,dia-compe calipers,weinman levers/covers,brevete stem,cta bars and stronglight seat post, bike is blue with a 5 stripe yellow to red stripe theme,frame has a sticker HLE on it,frame tube type?|
cant find any info on the production date,and model info,
was this a trainer,racer, or tourer model?is this considered a vintage light weight, bike has michelin Hilite prestige red striped tires on it and really rides nice,
This bike was found at a salvation army store for $20.00
american, and with Dad's senior discount came to 20 something with tax, Bargain?
any Information on this model would be appreciated, thanks
jon in DesMoines
RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot Bordeux 12 speed
posted by T-Mar on 6/14/2004 at 1:13:40 PM
| The Bordeaux was a late '80s, entry level, sports bicycle that sold for around $300.00 US, depending on the year. You can date it more precisely using the two letter codes found on the Shimano components. The first letter indicates the year where K=1986, L= 1987, M=1988, etc. You'll find the letters on the back of the rear derailleur's parallelogram and the back of the front derailleur's cage. It's probably not quite old enough to meet the 20 year criteria that most people use for vintage classification. |
It's probably a Canadian manufactured Peugeot, given the era, though it may also be from the Far East. Generally, the Canadian built Peugeots had good workmanship. HLE tubing, which is Haute Limite Elastique (high limit elastic)was Peugeot's replacement for it's Carbolite 103tubing. There's nothing special about it. Depending on the year and model of Light Action derailleur, it may have SIS shifting, which is a nice feature, though the rear derailleur tends to be a bit fragile due to the hinged rear plate on the parallelogram. The tires would appear to be replacements and are good tires. The remaining components are good, but nothing great and nothing bad. In my opinion, the bicycle is typical for it's price and era. It should be a good, basic bicycle.
You are the only person who can decide if it was a bargain. If you like the fit, ride and appearance and you didn't have to sink any money into repairs or parts, then you got a bargain.
RE:AGE / VALUE: Peugeot Bordeux 12 speed
posted by jon in Desmoines on 6/14/2004 at 2:16:56 PM
| thanks T-Mar, appreciate your help, the bike does have a made in France sticker on it, will try to date it and then who know's what will happen to it, my Dad is the one who actually bought it and when I went to his house last night to check it out he had it cleaned up and on display in front of his fireplace, I am sure that won't last long.|
thanks again! jon in DesMoines
MISC: Nishiki "olympic", late '80's
posted by: JONathan
on 6/14/2004 at 5:31:20 AM
| Be cool and good things happen. I had hit about 10 GS's on a little morning run on saturday. I decided there were no bikes worth lookin' at. On my way home, I was not paying much attention, thinking about food, mostly. I just looked up to spot a tiny sign for a GS. A quick uee and I was headin for the spot. A red, Nishiki "olympic" (25" frame) was propped against the tree with $25 price tag. The couple was moving and the guy had just bought a Trek , carbon fiber $2500 bike and the Nishiki was on the block. WOW! What a great ride. I had to beat it home for the truck. I picked up the bike and it sat for a painfully long afternoon while other activities needed attention. It was 7pm, before I got going on it. If you have not seen a mid to late '80's Nishiki "olympic", you need to get a look at a fine bike.|
Shimano "light action" derailers, Sugino VP cranks (52/42), Dia-Compe side pulls, SR 'custom" stem and "champion" bars. The paint on this bike has zero scratches. The decals are superb condition, even the Bianchi "gelflex" seat is primo. I got the BB regreased. The wheels came next. The brakes were fine. 150psi Continental 700-20C front tire on heavy duty Araya rim, Sansin hub. Rear is same wheel with 110 psi 700-25C tire. I replaced one rear spoke. That was it. I got er running at about 8:30 pm. Out on the road I goes. Man, this bike is slick running steel. They made some fine bikes in the late '80's. Little more comfortable than my Team Fuji of same period ('86), but the Team is built for performance more than comfort. I'd say it is my second best ride and for a lousy $25. Tha's like a dinner for two at Sizzler.
What is curious to me is the "olympic" from the early bikeboom handles like a truck...built like one, too. What happened? You have to ride this bike to see what I mean, but it is a remarkable bike...the late '80's version. I will most likely make a fixie out this one. Fast, fast, fast. I wasn't even looking, never fails.
Any comments on your "olympic"?
posted by jon in Desmoines on 6/14/2004 at 6:55:10 AM
| I pulled a nishiki olympic out of a pile of bikes that had been collecting at my favorite thrift store,I had passed it over for about 3 weeks,and finally it was still there when its tag was at 75% off, of $12.00, how could I resist!|
got it home before I really looked at it,and it was nice, a really quality light gold metallic paint job and sounds like the same components as jonathan's, only problem was,
it was the smallest frame I have ever seen for a 27"
wheeled bicycle, I cleaned it up and it sat and sat, and finally I took it to Seattles Bike Works, a non profit community serving shop, they were happy to get it and I am sure someone is using it now. A lot of my bikes that sit for too long end up at Bike Works, they only take alloy wheeled big bikes, but they Sell all of them and the money
goes toward bike projects with kids in the local community.
bikes for charity
posted by John E on 6/14/2004 at 2:00:32 PM
| Seattle Bike Works sounds like a wonderful organization. I wish we had something similar in San Diego.|
posted by RobA on 6/14/2004 at 10:21:18 PM
| Sounds pretty good...I have one, or maybe it's two, early 80s Olympics, which are pretty basic...good, but not great...I guess sometime in the 80s they decided to 'upgrade' the model...I can't remember the tubing on mine...I think it's a basic Tange plain gauge... |
What kind of tubing does your find have? I occasionally see late 80s Nishikis, but nowhere near the number of late 70s/early 80s I run into...the late 70s/early 80s Nishikis seem to be either that bronzy-green color or black...I can't recall seeing other colors...the later ones are much more colorful...I've seen white/blue and white/red... Nice find...I'll be watching for them a little more carefully now...
posted by JONathan on 6/15/2004 at 1:27:48 AM
| Community bike shop is a great idea! This one has 700C rims, not the earlier 27" standard, if that makes any difference. The 700's are easier to tire up and get replaced.|
Rob, my big red has 4130 main tubes; I would say it is plain gauge. Another sticker states "frame geometry...race/sport" located at base of the seat-tube. There are brazed fittings for two water bottle cages; one on the down-tube the other on seat-tube. There are threaded eyes for racks/fenders on forks and rear dropouts. Forged dropouts with integral hanger on rear are nice. The pedals are SP-250's which look like a track style as opposed to the quill type or platform pedals. The seat-stays extend in a beautiful taper to a wedge shape with "Nishiki" painted on the flats.
This ride would be a bit brutal for a small rider as the plain gauge are pretty rigid. This feature makes the bike a good choice, in my opinion, for a fixed-gear. I tend to flex the lighter built frames, with the Team FUJI as the exception for me. The Team is lighter and stiffer riding, yet it gets comfortable at road speed. I still have to figure out how they did that number. The Nishiki lug work and paint is exceptionally fine, IMHO. Is Tange steel a variant of 4130 chro-moly? The Nishiki accelerates like right now. I am impressed. I can't wait to make a fixie. Thgere is a pic. of one such conversion somewhere on web.
It corners great with small BB drop and those track pedals are sweet on the turns...haven't scuffed pavement yet on a turn.
posted by JONathan on 6/15/2004 at 1:33:39 AM
| One other feature; there is a conical stud on the head-tube for a pump attachment. Nice to have that small convenience.|
posted by T-Mar on 6/15/2004 at 12:17:16 PM
| The difference is primarily the frame and the rotating components. The early '70s boom models were hi-tensile steel, while your '80s model is CrMo, even if it plain gauge and probably only the main tubes. I know by the late '80s, the Olympic had butted main tubes with hi-tensile forks and stays. The switch to CrMo, even straight gauge, results in a lighter, stiffer and more resilient main triangle.|
The early '70s Olympic had steel, cottered cranks and steel rims. The '80s model has cotterless cranks and aluminum rims. This is a significasnt reduction in the critical, rotating weight. Developments in other components would undoubtedly realize a further weight reduction.
The tires are anothe major contributor. The new bike has high pressure, narrow tires with relatively low rolling resistance and weight compared to the medium pressure, 27x1-1/4" rubber on the boom models.
I supect the '80s version is around 3 lbs lighter than the early '70s version. Around half those savings would be in rotating weight. Throw in some lower, rolling resistance tires and add on a lighter, stiffer and more resilient frame, and I'm not suprised at the more "lively" ride quality. The difference would be like night and day.
posted by Elvis on 6/15/2004 at 2:26:29 PM
| I had a couple Nishikis. An old maroon one i wish I still ha, nice gold-trimmed lugs. I dented it and it became unrideable. I then got a Nishiki olympic but as one person said, it was so small. I had all onld Campy parts on it, cause when I got it, it was just the frame. Rode it only once or twice, it was good but too tiny.|
Then i got a Nishiki Rally. Boom era style bike but seemed to be from 1980s. Stem shifters which i replaced with downtube clamp ones, and rode great. Nice beater and looked sharp in light blue aqua paint. Canabalized it for parts some time ago.
My best Nishiki was a modulus, mid 1980s. Metalic blue, downtube indexed shifters, wide bars and aero brake levers. 700c rims and rode like a dream. Sold it when i got my specialized, couldn't see having two bikes that were essentially the same and the specialized had better components [though the Nishiki had better paint job].
If you stay clear of the early clunkers Nishi has a lot to offer in old steel bicycles.
posted by RobA on 6/15/2004 at 5:59:09 PM
| Ah...A Nishiki love-in... I think they are terrific all-round bikes...I started inventorying my Nishikis on Sunday...I think I have about 10 now, maybe a few others in the darker parts of the bike pile in my garage...:)|
My winter beater is a plain gauge Tange No. 5, Nishiki Royale (circa 1982, I think it is)...alloy rims, SunTour AR deraillleurs...nice, solid bike.. I have it set up for the dirty weather...fenders, lights... Among the rest, I have several Rallys, (late 70s), a Landau (late 70s?), a couple of early 80s Internationals, with Tange Champion No. 2 tubing, and as I recall Cyclone derailleurs... An interesting find during this year's spring clean-up weeks was a 1983 Nishiki Contintental (I think some of the model names are different between Canada and the US...all the web references I've seen to the Nishiki Continental have had a CDN angle...so the Continental may have been called something else in the US) The one I found has a Sugino AT triple crank, SunTour Cyclone II derailleurs, Gran Compe brakes, Champion No. 2 tubing...according to the homeowner who was just putting the bike out on the curb as I drove by, the bike had been in the garage for years...it's in nice shape, a few scratches, but no rust...From this description can anyone tell me what this model might have been called in the US?
Love those Nishikis...:)
posted by JONathan on 6/15/2004 at 8:11:16 PM
| Thanks for the analysis, T-Mar. Yes, indeed, you described my early bikeboom "olympic". It is a heavy built runner. White paint job with cottered cranks. Must weigh 35#'s in fighting trim. I left the bardon-bumper style rear rack in place. Funk factor of this bike is 10/10.|
Then, we look over here at the late '80's model and it is hard to see that there was any connection. It weighs 24#'s. I could see slimming the white one to the cruiserweight division with alloy 700C wheels and cotterless cranks; maybe alloy stem and bars, too. That would come in at 30#'s. What a beater with 700-38C Contis or Specialized touring tires in place.
Elvis, thanks for the info. The Dia-Compe side pulls have a number stamped in the caliper (0685) which could be the date? Maybe mine is earler mid'80's. I'm just going by what the chap told me who bought it new. He could be off a bit on the date. Well, seems there more Nishikis than I imagined there to be. I saw a "Prestige" at the thrift store. It came with a dent on the left chain-stay right at the BB. Nice bike for $35 (1/2-price day), but the dent had me concerned, but battle scars on frames have never slowed me down on the road. Why was I being so picky? It was gone after I got hold of my senses and returned to the store the next week to look it up. This "prestige" may have been a counterpart to the Candian "contienetal", perhaps? I forgot to check if it had a triple. I always check the frame, first and the dent sent me packin' without looking at the setup.
This big red "O" has a graceful appearance due to the rear traingle architecture. Quite elegant for a mass produced bike, IMHO. 25# bikes make for smooth riding for the bigger cats. I particularly enjoy the Nishiki as has very direct drive characteristics. No waffle and springiness action when it is clanged on pretty good. It's like; "You want it, you got", transmission of the power. T-Mar, the tires have a lot to do eith it, too. The down-tube shifters are mounted on a single post brazed on the tube. There is also a brazed pin for the chain to hang on for rear wheel removal. I got a flat yesterday. The stem tore out of the tube. Probably it was ready to go and I just gave it the push. Climbs about as good as my Bottechia of much earlier vintage (late '60's). Corners not up there with the RB.1 or Team FUJI, but decent enough for a putzer like me.
Yes, RobA, I indeed have a new found respect for Nishikis. These steel framed, lugged models are very nice.
posted by Laurent Charbonneau on 6/27/2004 at 12:23:41 AM
| "The down-tube shifters are mounted on a single post brazed on the tube..."|
I know it is maybe out of topic, but I NEED to know what kind of shifters that can go on a single post braze-on???
I just bought an old (1985?) Cougar frameset and it is setup that way and I try to find friction shifters (Campy if possible) that can bolt on this single thing.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
AGE / VALUE: BRAKE PADS
posted by: Kevin K
on 6/14/2004 at 12:15:12 AM
| Hi all. I've a nice set of Royal Compe brake levers and calipers I wish to use as an upgrade to a Schwinn Voyageur 11.8. The calipers do not open wide enough with the original brake pads to work on the Araya 27" rims. The original pads are about 13mm wide. Are there brake pads made that will allow the correct clearance or an I out of luck using these levers and calipers on my Schwinn. Thanks, Kevin |
RE:AGE / VALUE: BRAKE PADS
posted by dent on 6/15/2004 at 3:27:33 AM
| Hey Kevin are those calipers Royal Compe II's by any chance, or just Royal Compe? I need the II's if someone has a pair (late '80's). |
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: BRAKE PADS
posted by Kevin K on 6/17/2004 at 12:50:05 AM
| Hi. They are Royal Compe's. They look NOS inc. the levers. Any adsvice on the pads. Kevin|