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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   chain length posted by: toowheels on 6/9/2004 at 3:20:46 AM
How do I determine the correct chain length on a 10 speed?I am putting a new chain on a early 70's Raleigh which i received missing the chain.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   chain length posted by Wings on 6/9/2004 at 6:45:56 AM
Wrap the chain around the largest Cog in the rear and the largest Chainwheel in the front. Pull the chain tight so that there is only two links of play that can be pinched together.

This is best to check when the old chain is still in place and then decide if the new chain should be shorter. Remember the old chain will have stretched so notice the links to see if they are equally spaced.

I hang the old chain and a new chain from a narrow hook in the ceiling in the garage when I compare the lengths. I like this mid air comparison better than stretching them out on a table where they could pick up dirt.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   chain length posted by JONathan on 6/9/2004 at 8:37:09 AM
And...if you want further expertise on the matter, try this eloquent article:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
Too short is real bad, in my opinion. I have locked up a rear derailer, a rude event, from a chain being too short. Yes, something was learned from that experience, too. I'm just glad to be around to talk about it. Too loose, you'll know because the chain "jumps" the track a bit. Who runs with "small/small" anyway? I guess if you're selling bikes, the customer wants to be certain that all gear combinations can be obtained, regardless of any logical purpose.

One guideline is to setup for large/large and try to squeeze two links together into a "V" shape. If ythe derailer "bottoms", the chain is too short.
Just my 2 c's.
JONathan

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   chain length posted by Dick in Fl on 6/11/2004 at 1:10:47 AM
Or you can apply a formula. here's on efrom Park Tool that I was able to verify with trigonometry:

LONG FORMULA
The more complete formula below is needed when the bike has shorter chain stays and there is a greater size difference between the largest front sprocket and the largest rear cog. This is seen typically on road racing bikes. Below is a table of largest sprocket combination that should use long formula.

42t or 44t largest front ring with largest rear 20t or less
46t or 48t largest front ring with largest rear 26t or less
53t or 52t largest front ring with largest rear 28t or less (most road performance bikes)

LONG FORMULA L = 2(C)+F/4 + R/4 + [(F – R) 2 · (0.01275) ·(1/C)]+ 1

L = chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure. Remember to round up from 0.5.
C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8”.
F= Number of teeth on largest front chainring.
R= Number of teeth on largest rear cog.
(Note: The truly accurate formula includes "2 x pi" as part of the denominator under (F-R) squared. An approximation of 0.01275 is substituted in the interest of simplification.)


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   chain length posted by JONathan on 6/11/2004 at 4:46:59 PM
Interesting. I pondered the equation preented and I must admit, I only understand about 1/2 of it; not being a mathematician, but it would be easy enough to compare the results of using the formula (general case) with what derives from hangin the chain with the "look/see" method. I presume there is a formula (or formulae) that accurately determines the chain length, but that "imaginary" chain is not the one I put on the bike. So it raises an interesting question. If the formula specifies an optimum length that is different from the operational determinant; which one is best?
Off hand, I'd say go with what seems to work the best. Either way, they have to both be close enough that any argument would be academic. I could see a use for the formula if either of two conditions existed (or both). #1. Preclusion of any chance to fit the chain using the hand-eye method (analog?). #2. There are many chains to fit for amny, many bikes...and it has to done from a distance far away. These VLW's really are transcedental mechanisms, IMHO. Very, very interesting post. Thanks for that formula.
JONathan






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by: Hoss on 6/9/2004 at 12:49:49 AM
I'm proud of myself, by paying attention to cultures, my travels, well, I know the Dutch, has some Duke or King something like that of Orange, and if you ever see, the soccer-football team from Holland play, you know, they wear orange, the fans too, it is kind of like the Irish and green.

I was locking down the bike at the Health Club, in rolls this fellow with a Crescent, and it had some writing on it, I know, pretty much, how Dutch looks a bit different than German, but when it dawned on me, it was an all orange painted colored bike, maybe with the world champion stripe decals as well, I knew it was a Dutch bike. He said, the drive train wasn't so hot, it must have been a replacement rear derailluer, but it was one of those Shimanos where one pulley wheel was larger than the other, had some sort of "Kalloy" handelbar stem "extension" I would call it, looked like it could be turned up and down. Orange handlebar tape as well, gum hoods on top. Pretty impressive, I picked it up, reasonably light. Levers on the downstem, I told the gentleman, he had some nice vintage velo there, it didn't weigh so much as so many one runs into.

Curious, if anyone has ever seen one of these?

Also, is Batavus a Dutch Brand?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by Hoss on 6/9/2004 at 12:58:35 AM
Nice, headbadge read "Crescent" ; I mentioned Batavus, because I am sure, Batavus are a viable brand, but this seemed much lighter. Pretty nice.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by Hoss on 6/9/2004 at 1:25:38 AM
Excuse me you all: though there is a chance, this looks more like a bike from Scandinavia,

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Sweden/Crescent.htm

That headbadge looks like the same offhand, as these Swedish bikes,

http://www.benvanhelden.nl/Condorclub/Fiets/Sweden/History%20Army%20Bikes%20Zweden.html

This link too.

That writing I saw must have been Scandinavian.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by RobA on 6/9/2004 at 2:08:42 AM
That's right the MCB/Crescent was, indeed, made in Sweden...I have an early 70s basic bike set up with Huret components and a crank like the Ashtabula...called a Briga, I think it is. All of the Crescents I've seen, maybe half a dozen, have been orange, and all were pretty basic bikes...nothing much more than the usual bike boom fare. However, they did make a high-end Campy/531 model called the "Pepita Special", which is a collector's item...probably pretty rare... The Swedish words you are refering to are, "Varldsmastarcykeln", which means something like "World Champion Bicycles"

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by TimW on 6/9/2004 at 9:39:40 PM
I have a 532 db Crescent, that's got a full Campy Gran Sport grouppo. It doesn't have a model name that I've seen. Did the Pepita Special have Gran Sport, or Nuovo Record parts.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by Derek Coghill on 6/9/2004 at 10:47:16 PM
William of Orange; became king of Britain in the 1600's. Sellar and Yeatman refer to him in "1066 and all that" as "the Dutch king Williamandmary". Sorry it's not bike-related, but it ties in with the post....the dutch for bike is "fiets", and a moped is a "bromfiets".

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by Hoss on 6/10/2004 at 8:46:12 AM
This forum is for all to enjoy, not "creep" rape stalking, and rape needs to be said again, to your molestation, don't come at me, "what", keep out molestor

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by Hoss on 6/10/2004 at 2:33:31 PM
Ditto for some of these other intimidators, running around in other places. All can be discussed, til then, I don't tread on others rights.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by Derek Coghill on 6/10/2004 at 11:13:37 PM
Er......pardon? I was just adding some details to what you posted.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by HAVE A VINTAGE ORANGE CRESCENT I WANT TO SELL on 5/9/2005 at 11:53:43 PM
I have a 1970 Varldsmastarcykeln Orange Crescent Lightweight I need to sell. Can anyone help me arrive at a fair price?

thanks!
by: 67.101.33.163

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Crescent - Orange - Dutch posted by "Tobbe" on 8/25/2005 at 11:30:22 AM
Hello everybody!

Here`s a short story about the orange Crescent-racers: Top of the line: 92320 Pepita Special/Super Continental. Campagnolo Record; shifters, hubs, pedals, crank and stering-bearings. Brakes: Mafac racer, later (76-) Campa. Saddle: Ideale Special 90

Next in range is the 92319: Pepita/Continental. Campagnolo Gran Sport: Hubs (Nuovo Tipo). Valentino shifters, but even Simplex and Huret. Stronglight crank with Simplex chainwheels. Brakes: Weinmann Vanqueer
Later (ca 1977-) most parts was changed to Shimano Dura-Ace. Saddle Ideale Professional 52
by: 81.226.196.239






AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Collegiate 3 spd coaster/handbrake posted by: Elvis on 6/8/2004 at 1:05:11 PM
Hey. Bought a Scwhinn Collegiate to replace my old sears 3-spd as a train station / cruising around bike. I'm starting to like the upright handlebars though I don't like mountainbike bars, the bars on the 3-spd have a different position - fun but not very efficient as far as hills go, and I have long ridden drop bar roadies -- may my narrow-tire roots forgive me!
The Schwinn is a lugged frame and though it has a steel chainring in front it has [my lucky stars!] aluminum cranks!
Blue with white and yellow markers. Front handbrake and fenders and chainguard; Aluminum bar astem, steel bars. No rust anywhere 'cept one or two small scratche son fenders and fork crown... rear wheel is coaster brake with 3-spd pull on the left as opposed to the more common right side [i guess due to coaster brake]. Not bad for $20, nice SOLID ride and SO SMOOTH.
Now here's the rub: A spoke on the rear wheel is broken! It's rideable but wobbles aweful. I didn't notice til I got it [always ina hurry I is.] The guy I got it from has it's twin, they were a pair, it's a woman's bike with the same componentry. What should I offer him fer the rear wheel of the woman's one so I can fix it? Changing the wheel won't take more than a few minutes if the one on the other bike ain't broke too, and I need it for everyday riding to the train for work so I can't wait on a shop to rebuild the wheel. Any ideas what i should offer? I have just graduated university so like the man said, I'm on a LOW budget....


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Collegiate 3 spd coaster/handbrake posted by Dick in FL on 6/8/2004 at 8:54:20 PM
Elvis,
Your Schwinn Collegiate is probably a better deal than you imagined. The lugged frame gives it away as Asian-built so it won't lift like a barbell as do the Chicago-built Collegiates. Check the branding on the rear hub. The left side pull suggests a Shimano setup which employs a little bellcrank and pushrod instead of the chain of the Sturmey-Archer equipped versions. I'm not going to suggest an amount to offer (I tend to overvalue these models.), but good luck whatever you decide.

Dick in FL
I picked up one of these in showroom mint condition, a lady's model with a child's seat and plastic skirt guard, for $2.95 at a local thrift store. The tires and tubes alone would cost $20 at Walmart. Believe it or not, I acquired it to get those relaxed upright handlebars to convert a road bike.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Collegiate 3 spd coaster/handbrake posted by JONathan on 6/9/2004 at 12:23:52 AM
Any LBS would have spokes (50 cents or so each). If all you need is a spoke or two, why not go that route. Then you would not have another bike to store...but that never stopped me, so I guess a low offer couldn't hurt your cause.
I have a lugged framed "Sport Tourer" that is chro-moly tubes. A far cry from the fillet-brazed beauties that the Chicago Schwinn factory put out there. Curious, is the Sears 3-speed "made in Austria" (headbadge)? If it is, you have a Steyr-Daimler-Puch frame. Quite nice, I have to say from experience. I would think those would ride better than a "collegiate", IMHO. The vintage Austrian built Sears bikes may be interesting as a collectable some day, if not already.
Good luck. A spoke wrench is a must-have tool anyway, so you could get the second "collegiate" and still fix the rear wheel spoke on the one you have as a spare.
JONathan

     Schwinn Collegiate 3 spd coaster/handbrake posted by Elvis on 6/9/2004 at 1:00:54 PM
Thanks all! I actually just traded him a bike I wasn't riding for the entire bike, so the woman's Schwinn is now a parts bike, I already took both wheels. The Collegiate rides great, and th 3 gears work wonderfully. It's made in Tiawan, and though not light it isn't a clunker, as you said. Aluminum crans and handlebar stem shined up nice; so did all the steel [bars, chainrings, brake arm of rear wheel, etc. I put a aluminum rack on the back to carry my knapsack and it's all set, rode it to the railroad station today on my way to work!
The only lousy part is the seat, i don't want to install a nice seat while using it as a train station bike. Other than that, this weekend I need to get a new front tire, this one is rideable but deteriorated.
As a road bike freak, I feel wierd sayign this, but I think I've caught the cruiser bug. Someday i gotta take it on a long ride!

   RE:  Schwinn Collegiate 3 spd coaster/handbrake posted by marc on 6/9/2004 at 3:24:33 PM
well the collegiate technically isn't a cruiser. It's a 3 speed and more of a middle weight, I believe schwinn sold 3 speeds as "lightweights" for a while. 3 speeds are great, I actually believe they are the perfect bike for the average person and they're needs. That is a recreational rider who may ride it on short trips around town or just on the weekends. Very low maintenance and alot less intimidating for the average person who here's something like a chain scraping the front derailleur cage and runs to the bike shop rather than turning a screw or an adjusting knob.

Speaking of 3 speeds, I was driving home from the grocery store and saw a few bike rack in front and noticed this curious older looking bike amoung the crowd of mountain bikes. I pulled over and looked it over, but not for too long as I was afraid someone might think I was trying to steal it. It turns out it was a hercules headbadge but not the ususal hercules headbadge I'm used to seeing. This a very old brass headbadge, the kind you would see on bikes from the 50's and before. The paint job surprised me too, it had a very similar paint scheme to 50's and 40's balloon cruisers, it was red and a cream color in pretty good shape. The decals looked good although I didn't catch a model name if it had one. I didn't want to linger around too much so i didn't try to date the rear hub, although I wish I had. I left the owner a note and she called me. It turns out it was a thrift store find and she was planning on getting a new bike anyway and so I'll be trading her one of my bikes for it. Probably a schwinn racer or another hercules, a 69 all gold 3 speed, which is pretty schnazzy looking in its own right.

I'm hoping it's a club bike, I've been dying for one. Even if it isn't I'll probably turn it into one. The chain will need to be replaced, and the chain ring looked a little rusty. We'll see what happens.

   RE:  Schwinn Collegiate 3 spd coaster/handbrake posted by Lindsay on 7/6/2004 at 4:05:04 AM
I just bought a Schwinn Collegiate on ebay. 5 don't know anything about the history or anything. Are you knowledgeable about vintage Scwhinns? I think its a 3 or 5 speed but I'm not sure. From the picture it looks like it has a lever shifter. Do you have any idea about a possible date. I think the picture should still be on ebay listed as Vintage Yellow Schwinn Collegiate. I would be interested to find out a little history about it. Thanks, Lindsay






AGE / VALUE:   looking for info on a Hollandlook posted by: P.J. Seay on 6/7/2004 at 11:40:38 PM
Hi folks!
I have acquired a Hollandlook Bicycle.
I located it in an antique store my girlfreind works for in Richmond virginia. Its quite interesting.. by outward appearence the bike appears to be dating from the 50's or 60's. I can find no model number or name, just the words "Holland Look" emblazoned all over the tubes, theres a graphic of a crown over the words, and a crown badge. theres one green warning sticker in german that basicly translates to "watch your fingers."
the bike is fully fendered with plastic splash guards decending halfway over the rear wheel. The fenders also have chrome accent strips.
it has a three speed hub with coaster brakes, and a caliper brake in front.
handle bars are flat uprights. the handle bar neck and handle bars are all chrome, with white plastic grips.
Tires are white, not whitewall.... white.

the bike has a back tail light, and front headlamp. A generator powering these lamps is built into the front forks and all wireing is routed thru the body tubes.
I've been looking all over the internet for any information on this bike. the only thing I've found out is that its most likely of german origen, and that it was brought over to the states. I only found one refrence and that was on German language E-bay, and let me tell you.. the translation features of Google are not that good.

I've reached a dead end here folks.. any info or help would be greatly appreciated


   RE:AGE / VALUE: looking for info on a Hollandlook posted by Warren on 6/8/2004 at 4:54:43 PM
It's tough to find good info because europeans had scores of builders that we're not likely to encounter more than once in a lifetime. Your bike is typical of the standard euro commuter bike made by Gazelle, Batavus and many others. They litter the streets of Amsterdam and Copenhagen among other cities. It's not likely to be rare (read valuable) but it's probably well made and worth riding.
You may get a better response from the roadster discussion group...does it have a Sachs Torpedo hub?






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cycling in the Great Smoky Mountains posted by: Gralyn on 6/7/2004 at 8:57:56 PM
I did some riding up in the mountains this weekend. Since I was going to be riding the "hills" I certainly wanted to take a triple crank bike. I usually end up taking my mint green '86 Schwinn Traveler beater bike - the one I always take camping. But this time - I wanted to take something different.....Well I only have 2 other choices for triple crank: A Schwinn Passage, and another Schwinn Traveler. I decided on the other Schwinn Traveler. It's a '85 model. The paint is almost flawless. It looks new. It had those "safety" levers.....so the night before I left home for hills - I swapped the brake levers for some single levers with hoods.
The bike performed excellent. The shifting was remarkably smooth - for a bike that old - with an added 3rd chainring.

While out on the bike - I spotted an old Nishiki lightweight - early 80's - parked at someone's house. It looked really nice. I spotted a couple other old lightweights - but that was all. I didn't see many people out on bikes either.

One thing that I really noticed when I was riding.....I rode into Sevierville, TN....The storm drains in that town are not cyclist-friendly. The grates run parallel - rather than perpendicular to your wheels. I guess I'm lucy I was looking out! (I remember being shocked that one....I mean "one" of the storm drains was installed incorrectly on Hilton Head Island.....all the others were perpendicular).


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cycling in the Great Smoky Mountains posted by RobA on 6/8/2004 at 5:24:14 AM
Gotta watch out for those storm drains...I think most bike-friendly cities dealt with the issue some years back...but I find I still have to watch if I'm cutting through parking lots...mostly being private land, they likely only deal with storm drain covers, if someone successfully sues them...:) Also one has to be careful with wet, worn sewer covers...this AM I slipped a couple of inches on such a well worn cover...fortunately I was expecting it...

Sounds like you had a 'fun' ride in a beautiful setting...my last such excursion was last summer on Washington State's stunningly beautiful Olympic Peninsula ...the snow-covered Olympic Mountains on one side, and the Strait of Juan de Fuca and, off in distance, the southern end of Vancouver Island, on the other... Sometimes life is good...:)

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cycling in the Great Smoky Mountains posted by JONathan on 6/8/2004 at 6:01:39 AM
Those '80's "travelers" are superb rides. I'd like to snag another one cheap, before I wear this one out. Someone knew how to make a bike right. Good choice for the trip, IMHO. They can do fairly well on rough roads as well as being real quick on blacktop. Short wheelbase (about 40") makes them nimble, too. I can run it all day long, too. The tired fella is in for a complete redo, after a somewhat rough winter (by Ca. standards). Mostly it's just brakes and bearings that need attention. I keep the frame hosed off, but road oily grit gets into everything. Nice trip!
I'm getting fired up for a good summer of toolin the Sierras.
Just might take the "trav", too. I'm looking hard for another one, as this one may be good for a year or two more, but who knows? Nothings popped loose yet and it's been three years of grinding away.
JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cycling in the Great Smoky Mountains posted by Hoss on 6/8/2004 at 3:11:44 PM
My kudos to you and the Smoky Mountains, I was on the North Carolina side, did some riding there, in the dead of winter, well, it wasn't freezing cold, but for about 20 dayks, they had had nothing but rain. I can't get over how beautiful that part of the country is, maybe made more so, by never venturing nearly that far East prior.






MISC:   a visit to Harris Cyclery posted by: John E on 6/7/2004 at 8:53:24 PM
I could not fly all the way across the continent on a business trip to Boston without jumping on a commuter train for a quick side trip to West Newton, to visit Sheldon and the rest of the gang at Harris Cyclery. The shop is small, but bustling, with the wonderful ambience that only an old building staffed by experts who love their jobs can provide, i.e., it feels more like the old corner hardware store than Home Depot. (Don't get me wrong -- I am an HD shareholder and frequent customer, but old hardware stores are FUN.) After trading emails, website hits, and Internet parts orders with him over the past several years, I enjoyed meeting Sheldon in person, even though I caught him at a harried moment as he prepared for travel.


   RE:MISC:   a visit to Harris Cyclery posted by Ken on 6/8/2004 at 8:12:53 PM
That's what I'd call a pilgrimage. The Web would be a very different place without Captain Bike.

   RE:MISC:   a visit to Harris Cyclery posted by RobA on 6/9/2004 at 5:09:00 PM
Yeah...I'd like to meet Sheldon...a high energy guy who has done a lot for VLW enthusiasts...lots of useful articles and opinions...a couple of years ago I sent him an e-mail about some obscure low-end French bike make...Savarin or some such name, and got a useful response overnight....

Keep up the good work, Sheldon!!!

   RE:RE:MISC:   a visit to Harris Cyclery posted by JONathan on 6/10/2004 at 5:57:08 AM
Nice going, John E.. An opportunity like that was too good to pass up. I know what you are saying about those corner hardware stores. I always pick up a few pointers, as the proprietor and staff really understand the medium...and they seem to enjoy communicating with customers in depth. Basically, they care if you come back.
Interesting that a technically advanced website is juxtaposed with a vintage emphasis. Not really a paradox, as the vintage bicycle relies on the same principles of propulsion as anything from the 21st. century. And, a guy can work on them.
JONathan

   RE:MISC:   a visit to Harris Cyclery posted by RobA on 6/10/2004 at 5:31:27 PM
I do what I can to support the LBS's...I figure part of the price is the knowledge you can get from these guys... Several months back I went into such a place, not within my normal travel range, actually I was killing time waiting for someone...as I was in the market at the time for some tubular tires, I asked what they had... once the guy understood I knew what they were, I could hardly get him to stop talking...:) I guess knowing what tubluars are marks you as something other than normal... On the other hand there are shops that seem like LBS's, but actually aren't...there's one about a mile from my house...I went in once... immediately got the impression they were trying to push bikes, whether it made any sense or not... asked a few questions about old components...got a stunned look, I suspect the kid didn't have a clue what I was talking about...and never went back...






AGE / VALUE:   Gold-Chrome Raleigh Superbe posted by: David Frost on 6/7/2004 at 8:43:11 PM
What's worth knowing about the 1980's Raleigh Superbe, finished entirely in gold-chrome? Is it a decent frame? Anyone know the geometry details?

I stumbled on a frame and fork in pretty nice condition, big enough (63 cm) to fit me or my son. A few small dings, but no obvious rust or pitting in the chrome. Lugs and brazing looked pretty good. Decals said Reynolds 531 tubes and forks; braze-on DT shifter bosses, shift cable routing under the BB.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Gold-Chrome Raleigh Superbe posted by John S on 6/10/2004 at 3:32:07 PM
I've seen a couple of these. Think they were made in the late 70's. They were quite high-end, equipped with the earliest full SunTour Superbe Pro groupo (lots of the parts were simply rebadged from SR, Sugino). The frame tubing was high-end Japanese I believe.

My opinion of these is they are a wonderful, rare example of the switch from Euro-based bikes to Japanese-based bikes, the state-of-the art technological challenge of Japanese vs. European.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by: Douglas on 6/7/2004 at 4:44:52 PM
I look for bikes at garage sales and purchase some just for parts. I bought one this weekend just for the tires. It's a Mirage, the headbadge informs me that it was imported by Norco and "Handcrafted in France".

From a distance it's an attractive bike, 52cm frame in a nice royal purple with foil and waterset decals , full Uginox fenders with a rear rack, the supposedly much admired Mafac Racer brake set, Simplex prestige derailleurs with a weird little alloy chain guard attached to the front one, alloy q/r hubs with steel rims (dated '72), steel cottered crank(52/42) with Lyotard pedals and a ADGA saddle. I looked for the Ava "death stem" but this one's a Pivo. Those were my first impressions. T-Mar, who made this thing?

When I closely examined the bike at home I found that it is in quite remarkable condition. My thoughts are that it was purchased new and rarely ridden, it sat unused for years. Years later someone took an interest in it and had the dry tires replaced then for some reason left it unridden again. I decided to overhaul this example of a early/mid 70's entry level French bike to see what was what back then.

It disassembled easily to reveal no corrosion or broken parts. The headbadge brags about french craftmanship. Now I know this is a bike boom example where they were throwing them out the door but I'll be forever suspicious when a frenchman talks about craftmanship. Looking at the lug striping I would not be surprised to learn that a four year old child had wielded the brush. The machining on the bottom bracket and steerer tube was worse than I've seen on bikes from communist europe. There is no more finishing on parts than what was needed for initial assembly. Horrid.

After cleaning and polishing, assembly and adjustment it's off to the busy bike trail. When I overhaul a vintage bike I'll ride the trail as a shake down, carrying a few tools and stopping for minor adjustments and tweaks as needed.

Well, what do you know, this is a nice little ride, shifts decently and the brakes are strong. Now the part that really surprised me. This cheap french bike caught the eye of more fellow riders than any other bike I've ridden there. I got about thirty "nice bike"s and several inquiries about selling it. Women especially seem to like it, for whatever reason they seemed quite impressed when they were informed it was a "french bike from France".

I am still rather disturbed by all this.





   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by Rob on 6/7/2004 at 7:14:36 PM
I picked up a Mirage during last year's spring clean-up, same color...purple,..rather rough and with the seat and bars missing..though, as I call one of the brake levers was left behind. I concluded it was a Peugeot knock-off of little merit, but I could use it for some of the French parts... And during this year's spring clean-up, I bypassed a badly rusted Mirage....decided it wasn't worth fussing with....

I try to focus on the outstanding French stuff...Gitane TdF, Peugeots, etc...I think all countries produce good bikes and 'not-so' good bikes...all part of meeting market demand...most buyers, as we are all well aware, focus on price first, then quality...some never get past 'price'. French bike makers and parts manufacturers have turned out some stunning products over the years...and some of these items attract premium prices among collectors...Peugeot PX-10 (of certain vintages), Huret Jubilee derailleurs, high-end Simplex items...such as the retrofriction shifters, Ideale seats...I could go on.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by T-Mar on 6/7/2004 at 7:53:21 PM
In general, the French manufacturers empthasized functionality over aesthetics. To that end, the comments pertaining to the pinstriping and finishing touches are no suprise. However, the machining comments are unexpected.

Quite frankly, I have never heard of the Mirage brand, or at least I don't remember it. I know that Norco was the Canadian distributor for Gitane from the late '60s through the '70s bicycle boom. We carried Gitane in the shop where I worked, so the Norco rep (I believe they were still Northern Cycle back then) was through fairly often, but I don't recall Mirage. Maybe if you or Rob could forward me a picture, it might ring a bell.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by JONathan on 6/7/2004 at 8:07:12 PM
The "Mirage" was one in the Motobecane line-up. About two notches above the "Nobly" and "Nomade". After the "Mirage", you run into the "Super Mirage"; "Gran Tourer" and then the top end models...I think "Le Champion" and "Super Champion". Help me out here, Moto experts!
I happen to have three complete Motos. One is the "Nobly" (imported by Lawee to Ca.) and a "Super Mirage". A "Gran Tourer" is the third. All are about your's vintage. The paint is excellent, compared to my other French bikes designed to compete in that genre. Yes, the "Nobly" with it's "coffee" (So I'm told) color and French pedigree is big hit. I must admit, I only ride it on shakedowns. It is just OK, but I can't tell someone else what they like, so I just keep it going.
Now, the "Super Mirage" is my kind of bike! The "Gran Tourer" is real smooth on the road, too. The Color schemes are red/black with gold and gunmetal gray with black striping respectively. The bikeboom pressed the production limits on all makes, so I sudpect your observation is not exclusive to Motos. In fact, my experience has shown the Motos to have the best paintwork of all my bikes. I'm not counting my Team Fuji in the group. This would be the bikeboom, entry-level or mid-level bikes.
Check the earlier definition discussions for what constitutes these categories. Interesting read. Except for the "Nobly", mine all are Japanese equipped componentries, alloy rims and leather seats. Oh, I almost forgot about a Moto "Gran Tour" mixte with Vitus tubes is a fourth Moto in my collection. It is a beautiful silver color. I have not ridden it, but it is ready to ride when it gets tires. My take on the Motos is they are sturdy bikes. The rare event of them turning up in a thrift store has revealed completely worn out components, dents and bends in the frames, but they held together long enough to wear everything out.
Kind of like the Fuji bikes, although they are the standard, IMHO, for durability. I've seen a few "Mirages" on the roads...all vintage and commuter bikes. That ought to tell you something. Bikes just don't last long as commute bikes if they are poorly constructed. A lessor mount will either break up or it will prove to be such a nuisance to ride the rider abandons the effort. As for ride, they are very comfortable. Maybe a bit more so than my UO-8, but the UO-8 seems to be a bit more agile. Bear in mind, I have only ridden the "Gran Tourer" for a few runs. The "Super Mirage" feels a bit more sporty, although it has only been around the block.
You done good!
JONathan

   Reference to above post posted by JONathan on 6/7/2004 at 8:34:22 PM
Oops! The headbadge has "Mirage"? That is probably not a Motobecane. The Motos' headbadge has a big "M" with "Motobecane" around the edge. Yours appears to be an actual make called "Mirage". I have not seen any. The comment about poor paintwork took me by surprise, as Motos really have superior painting, IMHO. At least for the regular, mass produced bikes, they have superior painting. The '80's paintwork on imports from Japan and Taiwan is very good, too. Early bikeboom was where the paint can vary from good to not so good. I wonder about a bike make being the same as a model from a different maker.
Seems curious. Sorry about the confusion. More reason to read the posts twice!
JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/8/2004 at 4:49:06 PM
Although a devoted and dedicated British Bike Guy, I adore my 1972 Peugeot PX-10e. I owned a '74 UE-8 new as a lad but could never afford a PX-10 even at its '70s bargain price of $240 or so. Now I know what I was missing... simply an outstanding riding machine. I know even the top-end French machines lacked the supposed panache of having "Campy" components all the rage then (and now) but at least from my experience, that much-maligned delrin Simplex derailleur shifts a lot smoother and surer than most others, certainly better than the Campy Gran Sport. OK so the finish isn't always perfect and generally not as nice as a British bike of the same era. But French components look great and who can't er, well, love that endearing squeel of Mafax center pull brakes? Thanks to the use of delrin etc, the PX weighed about 21 pounds; still impressive today. And what machine looks better than a Peugeot in those classic white team colours? A PX-10e can eat any Bianchi on the road for breakfast. And you get to wear one of those groovy Peugeot team jerseys, too.

My only complaint: those fragile fiddly plastic Simplex skewer wingnuts! Easy to break and hard to find.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by T-Mar on 6/8/2004 at 6:14:05 PM
Actually, Peugeot's French componentry was pretty much an exception when it came to top of the line '70s French bicycles. Most of the other major French manufacturers used Campagnolo Nuovo Record on their top models, namely the Gitane Super Corsa, Jeunet Dole Flower Fountain (where did they get that name?), Mercier Professional and Motobecane Team Champion and Le Champion. I think the top line LeJeune was also Campagnolo NR equipped, but I can't find my reference right now. Joe, can you comfirm?

While the PX-10E is not at the top of my list, I can appreciate Peugeot's approach, and I wouldn't turn one down. Peugeot seemed to be saying, 'keep it light and inexpensive. Give them a good frame and hang some light, competent componentry on it. No ultra-expensive stuff, because it's a race bicycle and you don't the guy waiting weeks for a special order part, if something breaks. Similarily, don't go overboard on the finishing, as a race bike is probably going to get pretty beat up anyways.' Even if it doesn't jive with my personal criteria, it's pretty hard to argue with the PX-10E's formula, as it was probably the best selling racing model (i.e. tubular tires) during the '70s boom period.


   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hand crafted french bike posted by JB on 6/9/2004 at 12:07:46 AM
Just finished fixing up a Mirage (Motobecane) vintage 83...newer than most bikes I ride (prefer the Frenchies)..I must say the Suntour derailleur set-up is so much smoother than my older Simplex French rides...I didn't like the stem shifter at first .....very solid..has the atypical purplish Moto finish...found at a Fla Goodwill for 5$. Motobecane was ahead of the curve in applying Japanese gears to their Euro style rides..






AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by: RobA on 6/7/2004 at 5:30:55 PM
Yesterday I decided to tackle the Schwinn Continental...this bike was a "spring clean-up week" find about six weeks ago. ...I pulled the bike apart...it badly needs re-greasing...though, fortunately, the damage to the bearings and races is still quite minimal...actually only one ball bearing appeared to be damaged slightly, and some of the races have very minor roughness... The most obvious issue with bike are the bent rims, which looks to have been willfully caused...oh well... Only the rims are damaged...the back wheel is fully original...hi-flange hub, 5-cog freewheel, spoke protector are in excellent shape. The rest of the bike appears to be sound...usual scrapes and scratches with surface rust. I figure the bike, lemon yellow, is a 1974 model...Serial # EK633052..can anyone confirm that? Bought originally at a bike shop in suburban L.A. (Arcadia). The foam padding is torn on the lower right part of the standard drop handlebars, exposing this, "GB" "British Made" and the numbers "04 74", and on the middle part of the crank was, among other numbers, "74"....all suggestive that the bike is a 1974 ...likely built well into the year. I think in 1975 the Continentals went to randonneurs bars?? So...what should I do about the rims?...as luck would have it, a couple of years ago I got the exact matching front hi-flange "Schwinn Approved" hub...so I can built it up to original or near original.... Should I try to get original rims, or just go with alloy? Of course, then I wouldn't have the full "Schwinn experience". As I've said on previous occasions, Schwinns from that era are not real common in my area...so finding the rims might be a bit difficult...unless I go down to Seattle or Portland... Are the old Schwin steel rims with the serrated-looking pattern around the spoke hole area easy enough to find??? ...and are they cheap???

There is one other minor issue...the crown race on the fork is loose. I can rotate it with my fingers...I looked closely at it with a magnifying glass and it doesn't appear to be cracked. What does this mean? Should I try to "shim" it with a piece of aluminum foil?

Oh...and thanks, guys, for the run-down on chains in the post below...always soemthing new to learn at this site...:)


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by T-Mar on 6/7/2004 at 8:24:43 PM
In my opinion, the only material that works well for shimming headsets is brass or steel. I've heard stories of people having some success with shims cut from alumuinum pop/soda cans and even just using loctite. Personally, I avoid both. Aluminum is too soft and would be a tempoery fix. With Loctite it will be almost impossible to get the race concentric with the column, unless it's a sliding fit. Your local industrial supply house should be apply to supply you with the correct thickness of shim stock. Ideally, you want the shim to provide an interference fit of 0.1mm - 0.2mm (0.0025"- 0.005") between the crown race and its seat. This means you'll have to take some measurements of the crown race ans its seat using a precision caliper or other suitable instruments.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by JONathan on 6/7/2004 at 11:38:14 PM
A recent survey of spare wheels turned up few of those "S-6" wheels in my modest collection. Seems they were commonplace on the "Varsities" (very abundant during bikeboom in Ca.) and "Conti"s; as well as a large number of models like "Suburbans"; "Collegiates" and "Breezes"; etc. Problem is they rust out if left outdoors for any length of time. I converted a '77 "Varsity" to a somewhat decent, certainly robust, runner. If you have trouble locating a set of wheels, I may have a couple to spare for your cause, RobA. I have the "Conti" and a '68 "Varsity" to restore to OEM. so that's 4 wheels, but I may have a couple extras, although I tossed one that was rusted inside-out. Needless to say, they are specific for a restoration purpose ONLY, IMHO. My '71 "Conti" is that lemon yellow color, too. I was amazed how well it cleaned up. The slight rusty glaze on the rims came off with a brass brush and soapy water and polished up real spiffy. The crank on that thing is as heavy as some whole bikes!
The bearings are bigger than 1/4", too. Fortunately, for me, the headset was sound. It was a "sitter", like so many. Are you certain that the bearing race is OEM? I have not heard of a loose headset on a Schwinn...of course anything's possible, I suppose. Maybe, the wheels being crashed up was indicative of damage elsewhere, like the headset. I would compare it with another, just to be sure. These VLW's are a constant surprise.

   tire sizes posted by JONathan on 6/8/2004 at 12:11:51 AM
The "Breeze" has nominal 26 inch tires. The "Collegiate"s had 26" tires, too. I am confused a bit. I looked at an "s-6" rim which has a 27x1 1/4 inch tire on it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by RobA on 6/8/2004 at 4:58:03 AM
Thanks JONathan, I'll see how it goes...I can get the bike roadworthy, then deal with OEM rims at a more leisurely pace. I think the headset is all original, but I'll see what more I can find or figure out. And T-Mar, would the shim be somewhat wedge-shaped and driven in with a brass or hardwood drift? The crown race does have some play, but seems to sit evenly on top of a chrome fork crown. The seat area on the steerer tube consists of series of vertical serrations...sort of like the milled edge of a coin...but the area is paint-covered, almost as though the race had been mis-sized since new...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by JONathan on 6/8/2004 at 4:38:09 PM
Hmmmmm, that is very interesting, indeed. All the more reason, in my simple mind, to suspect that it was an "add on". But, what do I know? If there's anything I've learned about Schwinns (Chicago-builts) it is that nothing is loose that is not supposed to be loose. It could be the person tried to "service" the headset without a clue. Maybe a pipe wrench on the wrong part? I would never do that!
I know it is easy to bugger things if my enthusiasm is not matched by the necessary skills. Good luck, remembering; "You always win". No Schwinns appearing on my random (is best) stops at the usual outlets. The laid back LBS is becoming a scarce animal, too. Used to have shops with cart loads of parts jammed in the back, but now things look real clean in the shops. Insurance, perhaps? I have had little luck with VLW discoveries of late.
Nobody is complaining about the scarcity, but that may be the result of the reality...just an accepted condition. Got to move on. I hope some church RS's come through this summer.
Maybe a few small towns might come up with a few bikes.
JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by Ken on 6/8/2004 at 8:51:57 PM
I find it ironic that back in the day, Schwinn found it cost-effective to put steel rims on alloy Normandy hubs, while nowadays the X-mart bikes have steel hubs and alloy rims. The "Schwinn-approved" French hubs are light, robust and serviceable, and unless you have some compelling reason to try to make the bike "as new", like for example a frame in absolutely cherry original paint, then you should consider relacing these hubs into alloy rims. The weight loss will be a noticeable upgrade, and it's really satisfying and fun to ride on wheels you built yourself. Conventional wisdom advises that you never reuse spokes, but practical how-to's also include the easy way to swap out a bent rim by placing the new one next to it and moving one spoke at a time. Note however that those Schwinn wheels were built with galvanized spokes. Before you go too far, see if every single one of the nipples will still turn freely; otherwise you may want to consider other options.
I think everyone should try wheelbuilding. Sheldon Brown covers all the basics at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html






AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sirrus posted by: Elvis on 6/7/2004 at 12:57:44 PM
Hi all. Been ages since I posted. My vintage fleet grew this week by two, one an old sears three speed in mint condition which is my transportation to the train station, and two, by a great Specialized road bike. Someone threw it out! There loss, my gain...
It's bright red made in Tiawan on seat tube . It is bright red wioth the Specialized stylized "S" logo in yellow. The indexed downtube shifters, aero brake levers, cranks and derailieurs are all marked Shimano 105. It's got black Wobbler rims, just needs a new r. tube [maybe tire too] and chain work. two water bottle mounts in standard places. Rides nice but chain skips, like I said is little rusty, needs work. The fork crown and seatstays have the "S" logo cut into them, and painted in yellow.

I know specialized doesn't make lugged frames any longer. Anyone know when this one was put out?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sirrus posted by John E on 6/7/2004 at 4:26:26 PM
With indexed downtube shifters and two water bottle mounts, I would guess mid 1980s.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sirrus posted by Elvis on 6/7/2004 at 6:03:19 PM
Thanks... It will be great once I fix it up.
;)






AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sirrus posted by: Elvis on 6/7/2004 at 12:57:44 PM
Hi all. Been ages since I posted. My vintage fleet grew this week by two, one an old sears three speed in mint condition which is my transportation to the train station, and two, by a great Specialized road bike. Someone threw it out! There loss, my gain...
It's bright red made in Tiawan on seat tube . It is bright red wioth the Specialized stylized "S" logo in yellow. The indexed downtube shifters, aero brake levers, cranks and derailieurs are all marked Shimano 105. It's got black Wobbler rims, just needs a new r. tube [maybe tire too] and chain work. two water bottle mounts in standard places. Rides nice but chain skips, like I said is little rusty, needs work. The fork crown and seatstays have the "S" logo cut into them, and painted in yellow.

I know specialized doesn't make lugged frames any longer. Anyone know when this one was put out?







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   "Schwinn" Fiorelli tandem posted by: Richard on 6/6/2004 at 4:35:07 AM
I recently picked up a "schwinn" tandem, however the serial number is 6 digits (no letters) on the rear seat tube and the frame has a fiorelli Novi Lre badge. Its a male in front, female in back setup with disc brakes front and back. The derailler is missing but the shift lever is a campagnolo lever. I haven't been able to find anything on tandems built by fiorelli and I haven't been able to find anything on whether Schwinn ever used fiorelli frames on tandems. The only hint of Schwinn is that both handlebars have Schwinn grips.

Any information about Schwinn tandems with fiorelli frames or fiorelli tandems would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.







AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by: marc on 6/6/2004 at 2:37:45 AM
My neighborhood association had its annual neighborhood yard sale today. It's about 4 square blocks of yard sales. Gave me a chance to sell some dead weight. I sold 4 bikes and made 160.00 not too bad for an old japanese 3 speed which the top tube was way too short to be comfortable, schwinn letour (kinda didn't want to sell it but I said what the heck), raleigh record, and a huffy single speed middleweight cruiser.

by the time I got away to check out the rest of the yard sales there was only one bike that was worth anything, a centurion le mans cro mo 12 speed, full shimano exage group with biopace chainrings and really beautiful dark copper colored annodized 700c wheels. The seller wanted 75 for it, I told him I'd think about. I went back at the end of the day and got it for 50.00 I think what turned people off was the color. It's a very 80's color scheme, a pinkish purple faded out to white with some multicolored rectangular shapes here and there. I can't quite decide if I love the paint job or hate it, either way its in spectacular condition. The frame is tange No. 2 seamless double butted tubing. Came with some nice extras, two zefal water bottle cages, and a zefal high pressure frame pump.

I do have a question about the pedals and toe clips. The pedals are shimano exage and they look like they take specific toe clips? is this so? The ones on it now are broken, there's actually not much left of them. If the clips are specific, is there a source for them?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by Walter on 6/6/2004 at 5:41:56 PM
Nice bike. Sold 4, got 1 probably makes the spouse happy too.

Am not positive about the Exage but believe they're related to the 600EX pedals. If so they do take a special clip and I have no idea where to get them. Hit the 'net and start searching is my advice.

Actually, I go clipless on all my bikes even VLWs so I wouldn't bother but that's me.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by marc on 6/6/2004 at 7:49:45 PM
I've gone clipless on alot of my bikes, including vlws, mainly look pedals. Sometimes I prefer clips though, don't have to worry about bringing a change of shoes and if I'm riding in the city that's essential. The look pedals usually go on my speed demons, the bikes that I just hop on and ride my brains out on. The clips usually go on commuters, and although it may not give me good standing with the purists I don't bother tightening and loosening the straps. I can usually get them where I can slip my foot in and out and are still tight enough to serve a purpose.

I hit the flea market today and came across I trek mountain bike with tange 5 tubing. I'll double check the archives but does anyone know the heirarchy of tange tubing?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by T-Mar on 6/6/2004 at 8:29:03 PM
Tange #5 is a plain gauge, CrMo tubeset. However, take a close look at the decal. There were a number of entry level bicycles which used Tange #5 for the seat tube only. Everything else was hi-tensile steel. The decal states, "Tange 5 seat tube", or something to that effect. I'm sure it caught a lot of buyers aware.


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by marc on 6/6/2004 at 9:22:39 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3681455351

this is exactly the same bike I bought at the yard sale. Even the size. I guess I'll get a good idea of what its worth.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by Walter on 6/7/2004 at 12:49:02 AM
If those are the Exage pedals then they're not similar to the 600EX set I have. I still don't know where to find clips.

Shimano is not known for keeping replacement parts available for items only a few model years old much less close to 20.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   neighborhood yard sale posted by Gralyn on 6/7/2004 at 8:57:21 PM
I had one of those - same color and everything. It was too tall for me - I ended up selling the frame on e-bay. Mine had Look clipless pedals. Not like today's clipless, but older. They had red and white plastic. They did seem to go well with the bike - and with that color scheme. Yes, that paint scheme.....I could never determine whether to love it or hate it. It was a really nice bike, though.

I still have those Look clipless pedals - if you might be interested.






AGE / VALUE:   sekine 10 speed posted by: Ian Bissett on 6/5/2004 at 2:09:34 AM
I have a sekine 10 speed abot 30 years old. It is still road worthy but needs a bit of work. Is it of any value??


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sekine 10 speed posted by Douglas on 6/5/2004 at 4:28:46 AM
Older Sekine brand bikes are common on Canadian streets(Apollo's another one).
A couple days ago I bought a Sekine medialle that's in exceptional condition at a garage sale for $2.00, all it needs is a routine overhaul. I've bought other examples off bums for cigarette money. I have seven Sekines, TOTL or near to it, in my collection. All are there solely on the basis of their almost pristine condition and various vintage equipment groups. I also like the unique Sekine spoke protector and jeweled head badge. They are very nice examples of Japanese 70's boom bikes but honestly hold no value besides satisfying my interest. I calculate that I've a total investment of under a hundred dollars for the seven of them combined.
Yours has whatever value you attach to it.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sekine 10 speed posted by T-Mar on 6/5/2004 at 7:20:25 PM
Sekine is a feast or famine story. They were very popular in the '70s,in Japan and Canada, where the factories were located. However, they are rare and little known in the USA. If I read your adress correctly, you are located in New Zealand? I don't know the heritage of Sekine for that area. They may be Japanese made, due to proximity, or they could be Canadian, due to the Commonwealth ties. New Zealand or Australia may even have had their own factory.

While Sekine were popular here in Canada, there are so many that they have little value, unless they are the top models. Elsewhere, such as the USA, they have little value because very few cyclists are familiar with them. Which is too bad, because model for model they provided excellent value, util things started going downhill in the '80s. They were typical of most Japanese product, in that they emphasized reliability over light weight. What set Sekine apart was their level of quality. The fit and finish was far superior to comparable bicycles. I worked in shop that sold Sekine during the '70s and they rightfully outsold Raleigh, Peugeout and Gitane. I see the odd Sekine on Ebay and rarely are there any bidders. However, I suspect that if the window shoppers could see them in person, then it would be a different story. Regular readers know that I consider Miyata to be the best vintage, large production bicycles. Well, a '70s Sekine is the one of the few other bicycles that I consider to be in the same league.

If you have pictures of your Sekine, I can assist in identifying the era, model and country of origin.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   sekine 10 speed posted by JONathan on 6/6/2004 at 7:13:23 AM
I have seen a couple Sekines on the roads. They looked well broken in, too. Like the Fuji's, they seem to hold up under continuous duty. Any bikes that are still holding up after a few thousand km of the brutal commute environments have to be high quality...by my standards. Durablilty is quality, IMHO.
I say, maybe $150-$200 for one that is reconditioned. The LBS's have sold the vintage LW's for about that price range..when they are available. Now, they have mostly MTB's for sale (used bikes) and there are lots of road bikes (new). The road bike is back, it seems. The used VLW's are in demand as well. It may be that the shops are finding it hard to find quality used road bikes to restore.
Your Sekine is definitely a great candidate for continued service, IMHO. I'd keep it for a while. I have a bunch of frames that I'd like to have painted, preferably by an artist who knows what they are doing. Noice paint "sells". They'd look boss! The faded out, scratched up paint really detracts.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What are these bits called???? posted by: Robert on 6/4/2004 at 12:42:57 PM
I plan on changing from downtube to Suntour bar-end shifters.
Bike is a Univega that has the brazeons for the shifters on the downtube. I have seen some pieces that bolt onto the downtube shifter brazeons that have barrel adjusters. This is what I need to go to barend shifters.

What are these pieces called and where can I get some for a reasonable/cheap price?? :)

Oh yeah, prefer metal not plastic.

Thanks
Robert


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What are these bits called???? posted by Warren on 6/4/2004 at 2:13:20 PM
Shimano makes them for their bar end shifters...probably less than 10 bucks at a good bike shop. I'll be darned if I can remember what they're called even though I have them on 3 bikes.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What are these bits called???? posted by T-Mar on 6/4/2004 at 4:24:55 PM
Most places just call them 'down tube cable stops with adjusters'. If you mail order, be careful what you specify. Shimano's versions are available in flat or concave downtube models, and with a barrel adjuster or ratcheting lever for the rear derailleur cable tension. Try your LBS or www.icyclesusa.com .

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What are these bits called???? posted by James Mahon on 6/4/2004 at 4:37:08 PM
Those are simply Downtube cable stops
see them here:
http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Shifter&sc=Cable%20Stops&id=94605429345

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What are these bits called???? posted by Robert on 6/5/2004 at 12:23:55 AM
Question, do the flat ones fit everything and the curved fit 1 1/8" downtube or ?????

Thanks

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What are these bits called???? posted by Walter on 6/5/2004 at 1:26:25 PM
They should fit any dt as they attach to dt brazed on shifter posts not the dt itself. I've used or currently use the new Shimano stops and an older SunTour set. Both work well.

eBay often has them for sale as they come with STI/Ergo groups and oftentimes people end up with more than one set.