| Picked up two CCM's from an old shop last week. The lightweight is a 1951 CCM Club Racer in superbe original condition. Cyclo "Oppy" 3 speed derailleur, mudguards, EA1 wheels (need rebuilding) and a Miller light set. Almost the same green hue as Bianchi Celeste. Covered in grease. Pics in the spring when it gets prepped.|
| Congratulations on your find. I can't wait to see the pics. I thought I might have the catalogue for it, but my copy is from 1950. However, I doubt there were many, if any, changes. |
| I've got an old Peugeot UO-8, bought new, by the way, in 1969--and I've been riding it ever since.|
The front gears, pedals and parts of the frame are rusting.
In addition, I want to replace the front and rear derailleurs. They are getting pretty tired.
The Simplex derailleurs are okay, but I'm wondering if anybody can suggest a better alternative that would fit without a lot of modification.
And what's the best way to get rid of that rust? Or should I replace the whole crankset?
Many thanks for any suggestions anyone has.
| Most all of the components that came on a U-08 are not too difficult to find. You can probably find another crank set to match your's - but in really nice, shinny condition. |
| You'll be able to find everything you need on ebay, for instance, see item #7139815626 for a cottered steel crank, bottom bracket and pedals for your bike. I started out buying parts for my old Peugeot PX-10 on eBay and I got addicted. Now I have four bikes and a growing collection of high-end vintage parts. |
Simplex made some great derailers in the later years. The Super LJs have become pretty expensive because of people like me, but some of the lesser models like the SX610 can still be bought new for a reasonable price. I had one on my Gitane until I found a super LJ for it. I think it shifts as well as anything you can buy, including the pricey Super LJ.
| I have quite a lot of stuff for the old Peugeot UO8s. In fact, I have virtually everything that you could possible need, including complete bicycles. Let me know exactly what you need and I am certain that I can make you a very attractive offer. Have you ever tried using aluminium foil to remove rust? It really works well and I describe how to do it on my humble web site, "Vintage Life Cycles", which focuses on vintage lightweight bicycles. The address to the site is: http://www.geocities.com/randyjawa/index.html|
You will also find a fair amount of information there, pertaining to your Peugeot UO8. Hope this helps.
Good luck with your project.
| I would switch to cotterless Nervar or if possible a Stronglite cotterless crank and chainrings. Just pick up a carbolite-Peugeot mixte at a thrift store. Usually the mixtes have quite serviceable parts...near new condition in most cases. If you keep the cottered steel Nervars, I would use SOS steel wool pads to scrub the rust off. For the frame rust, I use wet paper (#400) to clean off the rust and feather the paint edges around the exposed area. Touch up paint or a rust preventer like Boeshield "T-9" works to prevent recurrence of the rust. SunTour "V" rear derailers will work just fine. They are built pretty tough, so even a used one is good for many miles. They shift a bit sloppy, but who needs to race a UO-8? They are premium bikes for easy ridin'. Good luck.|
| I strongly recommend replacing the steel rims, the cottered steel crankset, and, if applicable in your case, the AVA "stem of death." I have equipped two early 1970s UO-8s with aluminum cranks, aluminum rims, aluminum handlebars, KoolStop brake pads, SunTour derailleurs, and SunTour downtube or barcon shift levers, with surprisingly good results. The frames are remarkably resilient for plain gauge carbon steel, and they are not inordinately heavy.|
| Thank you all so much! I see that there's a very supportive community amongst those of us who are keeping and using old bikes. I imagine that I'll be back with more questions. Meantime, I've got to absorb all of your suggestions.|
| Good luck with your UO-8, Steve. The UO-8 is still one of my favorite commuting frames, although I don't think much of some of the original components.|
My commuter/cyclocross = UO-8 with 27x1-3/8" knobby tires, Rigida aluminum rims, 13-26 SunTour ultra-6 speed freewheel, SunTour ratchet barcons, SunTour Cyclone rear, Shimano Titlist front, Sugino aero crankset with 45-42 rings, Salsa stem (sanded down to 22.0mm), MKS road quill pedals, aluminum handlebars, Weinmann brake handles (the original Mafacs have too long a reach for me), a Pletscher "mousetrap" rear rack (great retro touch, and VERY practical), and a Bellwether cylindrical front bag (which also holds up the cables from the barcons). All it needs now is a nice old Brooks Pro saddle ...
| Anyone know how to remove a Suntour casette (sp?). I picked up a 1993 Giant Allegre (Thanks for the info T-Mar) and assumed the rear cluster to be a freewheel. Well, I tore the hub apart, and the bearings are where you would find them in a freehub. I don't see a lockring like on a Shimano cassette but it looks like the small cog may unscrew. I can overhaul the hub without removing the cluster, but I will need to know how to do it if a spoke breaks. Anyone know how? Also, would I be able to replace the cassette with a Shimano cassette?|
| Without seeing it, I'm guessing you'll need two chain whips. There's a clear explanation and photo at|
down near the bottom of the page.
| Most of what I have - are the cassette free-hubs.....that require the Park FR-1, FR-2, etc. free-hub removal tool. I have a couple of units that are removed by un-screwing the smallest cog....then the remainder of the unit comes off. I have another type - that when you remove the bearing/cone/axle deal - the unit just slips off. There is like a spline deal on the hub that holds the unit in place.|
Now, I have quite a few of these European-type free-hubs...there is a spline just inside the smallest cog....like the type you would use the FR-4 (which-ever tool has the splines)....but these splines are of a much larger diameter. I don't have a tool with such a large spline. I haven't seen one of these tools anywhere. I know there are lots of folks out there who encounter these free-hubs every day.....so, how do you remove them from the hub?
| The SunTour freehubs that I have worked on were similar to the original Shimano freehubs (pre Hyoerglide), in that the small cog is threaded and retains the other cogs, which are splined. |
As Ken states, two chain whips will be required to remove the cogs.
If I recall correctly, the cogs are not interchangeable with Shimano. I believe that SunTour had more splines and they were narrower.
| Thanks for the info. i'll have to get another chainwhip I guess. Thanks again|
| You get by without a 2nd chainwhip, if you have any assistant. Leave the wheel on the bicyle, put it in the largest cog and wrap the chain whip around the smallest cog. Have your assistant apply the rear brake (so the wheel won't drive) while applying pressure to pedal. This will apply a clockwise torque to the cassette and prevent it from freewheeling while you loosen the small cog.|
| That's why I love this site. You are a font of knowledge. Thanks again!!|
| Same old thing..age id. Could somebody help me id the year of these bikes. Frejus s/n 89009; Ernie Clements Falcon s/n 19608; and a Holdsworth tricycle conversion attached to the Falcon s/n 1862.|
| I am trying to id my Frejus as well. The s/n is 101206.|
| I had never heard of this one before: I think it's correct....Daneleigh.....from Denmark. It's a typical, looks to be early 70's, plain steel frame, stamped dropouts, foil decals. It looks like a typical frame.....I have seen 2 main frame styles.....that ended up with hundreds of different labels on them. It seems there was one style that ended up with a lot of Japanese names, and another style, that ended up with different European brands. This looks to be the European frame. |
What attracted me to the bike: Orange color, no braze-ons (good candidate for fixie), Alloy wheels (the rims look to be about the same profile as the ones on my 71 Sports Tourer), Sunshine hubs with QR front and rear, Nitto alloy bars, and good price!
Racer center pull brakes, Huret downtube shifters, Simplex der., Steel cottered cranks. The bike is a mix of European and Japanese.
Has anyone ever heard of this brand?