FOR SALE:   Intense M1 Downhill Mountain Bike posted by: Analia Alvarez on 5/6/2005 at 3:34:37 PM
This is a great bike and you can own for no where close to what you would pay at an expensive retail bike shop or from the manufactuer I built this bike my self I am a auto tech. with twenty years of experience I recently became disabled My lose is your gain . The components used to assemble this bike are rock shock , Boxxer front forks eight inch travel Progressive fifth element , rear suspension nine inch travel, Titanium spring 450lbs also steel spring 500lbs, Hayes front and rear brakes eight inch disk hydraulic, Truvativ downhill cranks, MRP chain guide, Rapid fire eight speed, Easton peddles, King head set, Easton monkey bar, Intense seat, Intense lock on grip, Sun downhill wheel sets with Sun hubs, twenty millimeter front and twelve millimeter rear, and an Intese downhill seat no rips or tears. This bike makes no strange noises and is assemled with all smooth cartridge bearing at all pivot points. The frame offers four different adjustments for rider preference and conditions.


by: 80.96.201.80







FOR SALE:   asdas posted by: dsafsdaf on 5/6/2005 at 3:34:37 PM
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by: 80.96.201.80







AGE / VALUE:   Looking for info Puppy Bicycle posted by: Lori in NY on 5/6/2005 at 3:13:57 PM
I was wondering if anyone has any info on a bike called "puppy' it is collapsible and has a leather seat. I haven't found any other name on it.
Thanks!
Lori
by: 208.15.25.221


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Looking for info Puppy Bicycle posted by ralph on 5/13/2005 at 8:28:44 PM
sounds like a Road Puppy, japanese made. 14" wheels?
some people collect vintage folders, don't know anyone myself.
ralph.
philly
by: 151.197.218.57






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by: Bryan on 5/5/2005 at 10:37:57 PM
Hi there my name is Bryan...
If I may ask I am trying to find some information about a bike my mom had as a child.... I'm 38 now so that's a while ago.... She said its a Schwinn Greyhound 3 Speed English Racer. Made in England so the sticker says on the seat post just under the seat. I can't find any information on it and was wondering if maybe it wasn't what she thought it was.... I put a bunch of pictures on my website at http://bstcomputers.com/schwinn/ and was hoping you could take a look and shed some light on this possibly for me. It's in real ruff shape but it is solid... Literally.. The steering bearing, crank bearings and chain are seized up tight but the wheels still roll...

I was wondering if it is worth restoring, selling as it is maybe or time for the bicycle trial in the sky.....

Is it worth anything?


Any help or information would be greatly appreciated...


Thanks for your time..


Bryan
by: 24.161.66.128


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What is this Bike????? posted by sam on 5/6/2005 at 4:05:03 AM
Not schwinn,Raleigh I think by the type of fork used.Made me hurt to look at it!---sam
by: 68.93.141.216

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What is this Bike????? posted by Douglas on 5/6/2005 at 4:38:42 AM
It's junk, don't waste your time or money on that basket case, throw it back where you got it.
by: 24.72.49.104

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What is this Bike????? posted by Ken on 5/6/2005 at 1:59:59 PM
Junk, yes... throw it back, no. It's yard art. Put a basket on it, plant flowers in the basket and bury the wheels about ten inches deep in the back yard.
Since it's S-A, you might conceivably be able to date the hub were you so inclined (ca 1955?). sam's right- the most painful pic was the chainwheel. Ow, ow, ow.
by: 209.7.184.147

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What is this Bike????? posted by Warren on 5/6/2005 at 2:03:02 PM
Our friend Douglas has given you rather "blunt" yet accurate assesment of your bike. For anyone else, it is junk...(keep the chainguard)

However, if it has great sentimental value to you and you don't mind spending more money on it than you will get back out of it, it could be turned into a rider, IF you can get the crankset and front fork off. If you can get a shop to do that for you, then you can easily replace all of the components on the bike. A little black shoe polish and wax with new chrome bits and wheels and it will be a bike to hand down to your kids. I've got most of the parts in my own stash, let alone all of the others on this list. It's a labour of love but if you wanted to pursue english bike restoration as a hobby, you can start right here.
by: 70.51.124.95

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by Kurt K. on 5/6/2005 at 6:52:08 PM
It's salvagable, but it depends on how much you are willing to spend on it.

You mention all the bearings are seized, which may make it a lot more difficult - not necessarily more expensive, but difficult. I suggest you have a bike shop remove the cranks, handlebar stem and fork, and clean the bearings for you.

Mind you, some shops may refuse such a job, as it is a difficult one - don't let that keep you from trying though.

Personally, I would approach the restoration by:

#1: Purchasing a doner bike at a thrift shop or flea market.

Preferably a black, Raleigh Industries light roadster with 26 X 1-3/8 wheels, as what you have there. It doesn't make much sense to get an identical bike in better shape as a doner to this one, but it's the cheapest. The bike must feature:

*Presentable chrome on the rims
*A 3 speed Sturmey-Archer hub
(like the one on the bike currently)
*A three-piece cottered crankset with nice chrome
(see Sheldon Brown's bicycle glossary at: http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html )
*Black Raleigh Industries "ribbed" fenders
( but not nessesary, if you are willing to either stick with the ones you have currently, or use modern stainless steel replacements)

Your next step would be to:

#2. Get some fine 3M liquid 'compound'. This stuff is sometimes referred to as a wax, but it behaves very differently then the wax that most people are familiar with. It will essentially take off the top layer of paint on the bike, and expose the untuched, glossy layer beneath. Rub the whole frame, fork and chainguard with it until it shines. Do not let the compound "sit" like normal wax - rub it in hard, and wipe it off fast. After compounding, go over with conventional Turtle Wax.

Beware - the compound will rub the decals right off, so if you really must save them for sentimental sake, place a strip of masking tape over them, and cut it around in a neat square. It may look odd, but at least you do not have to carry the "rust" theme over the complete bike.

Next:

#3. Take both the Greyhound and the doner bike to a shop to have the bearings re-done on the in-the-restoration-process bike. (as I mentioned before). Once you have found a shop willing to replace the bearings in the Greyhound, ask to order the following parts:

*A new 'mattress' saddle, such as the one photographed here:
http://www.classiccycle.co.uk/images/spares/sa001.jpg
(Insist on one - don't let them steer you to a modern saddle. These are still available new - ask to see the saddles in the J&B Importers catelouge - it will be listed in there.)
*A new 'Pyramid' North Road handlebar
*A new chrome handlebar stem - if the shop has a box of them there, see if they have one that matches the one currently on the Greyhound.
*Generic chrome brake levers of the 'old fashoned' type.

P.S.: Don't let the shop take you for a "modern is better" ride - insist on the items you request.

Once you have done so, in addition to replacing the bearings on the Greyhound:

#4. Have the shop swap the crank arms and chainwheel, rims, brake calipers and fenders (if applicable) from the doner bike onto the Greyhound. Once the new parts are in, also have them install the new handlebar, handlebar stem and seat on. Have them install a new chain and brake pads too.

Next, have the shop install new brake and shifter cables put on - if it is in good condition, have the Sturmey-Archer 3 speed shifter from the donor bike swapped over onto the new handlebar. If the donor bike's shifter has seen better days, the shop may have a new 3 speed trigger sitting in a parts box.

Make it a point to have the shifter cable run down the lower tube of the frame (the "down-tube"), not the top tube, as I see it had originally. The latter method is a foolish routing of the cable. Also see to it that the shop installs the rear brake cable as originally - looped around the back and through the bottom of the caliper.

Also have the wheels swapped from the doner bike - have new tube protectors, tubes and tires installed (ask for either Pyramid, Chen Shing or Duro tires - never "LHR"). Mention that you would prefer either the classic 'brick tread' or the '70s smooth tread - not the angular "speed" treads they have these days. That would ruin the classic look of the bike you want to maintain.

#5. The bike should look like something now! Last thing that needs to be done now is to purchase nice handlebar grips. You may want to try foam grips, even though they are not strictly original equipment. Simple black rubber grips would work as well. Do not go for the semi-hard plastic Hunt Wilde (stamped at the ends) grips - they are murder, even on a short ride.

#6. The bike should be completed at this point. Any original chrome bits that were not replaced should be cleaned with bronze wool. (The headset, a.k.a. front fork bearing raceways should be one of these parts in need of cleaning - English headsets, which I suspect your bike has, are difficult to replace, as there is no modern substitute for them, save for the common American type, which is a mess to adapt.) Bronze wool, unlike steel, prevents rust from forming on the metal again. Only if large sections of rust refuse to come off with the bronze wool would I recommend taking a harsh steel brush to it.

The bike should be complete at this point. If you are willing to go the distance on it, it most certainly can be refurbished as I have detailed above. Whether you would be willing to spend the money to have it done (and the time to hunt out the doner bike and go down to the shop), is up to you.

Believe me - I've done one of these "restore a heap" jobs myself on a 1973 Raleigh. While I took the restoration to a slightly larger extent (the complete bike was stripped of the original paint, repainted, and N.O.S. decals were added, new stainless spokes, NOS brightwork, etc...), you should come out with a bike as satisfactory to you as the '73 is to me.

P.S.: Here's the 1973 - about 80% of the resto complete:

http://www.jaysmarine.com/1973_Sports_3.jpg

Let this photo cheer you on as you restore your Greyhound!

Take care,

-Kurt
by: 205.188.117.13

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by Kurt K. on 5/6/2005 at 6:58:20 PM
P.S.: The above process is for those who are not afraid of sticker shock! Seriously, the money in parts and the doner bike is not as bad as some shops may charge you for the labor.

Take care,

-Kurt
by: 205.188.117.13

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by Dick in FL on 5/6/2005 at 10:08:25 PM
Hey Kurt,

That was a procedure worthy of a NASA launch director.

I was struck by your cautionary note on the routing of the SA cable. Please elaborate. I surveyed my own inventory of men's SA-equipped bikes: the 1969 Robin Hood is routed along the top tube, the 1973 Raleigh is routed along the down tube, and I also have a 1973 Columbia unabashedly masquerading as a Raleigh Sports right down to the Bronze Green paint and this too runs the cable along the down tube.

So .... is my Robin Hood facing some unspeakable peril?

Dick in FL

by: 172.146.29.244

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by Douglas on 5/7/2005 at 1:16:36 AM
And while you're at it, the frame looks very rough. Might as well replace that with the frame from the donor bike.

Or you could save your time, money and sweat. Just leave the donor bike as it was when you got it and say,"This is my mom's old bike". Throw the lump of rust in the same river you dredged it out of and no one will be the wiser.
by: 24.72.49.104

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by Kurt K. on 5/7/2005 at 1:36:40 AM
Hello Dick,

Actually, the top-tube routing of which I mention applies only to the women's frames. Men's frames may be routed either way. (Incedentally - I'd like to see that Columbia - I own a Westfield-made '73 myself).

Note that the fulcrum clamp is on the top tube on the Greyhound - now it would make for a pretty mess attempting to run the cable and pulley between the rear wheel and chainguard as it is now. How the clamp ever got to be that way, I would not know, but no sane cycle manufacturer would route it as it is now.

P.S., slightly off topic: While men's frames with the fulcrum/pulley arrangement have been seen from factory both via the top and down tubes, have you noticed that the ones equipped with full-length cables always run them along the down tube? It's an easy explination though - try fitting two cable housings on the top tube!

-Kurt
by: 64.12.116.199

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by JONathan on 5/8/2005 at 12:29:39 AM
Interesting that rims are not rusted up in parallel with the rest of the bike. I think it is a wonderful bike for texture and form as it sits. I would keep it just as it looks. That seat has a life all it's own. Great photo workup. Thanks.
by: 67.118.246.245

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What is this Bike????? posted by JONathan on 5/8/2005 at 12:31:19 AM
Interesting that rims are not rusted up in parallel with the rest of the bike. I think it is a wonderful bike for texture and form as it sits. I would keep it just as it looks. That seat has a life all it's own. Great photo workup. Thanks.
by: 67.118.246.245

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: What is this Bike????? posted by jack on 5/9/2005 at 9:10:02 AM
Brian, don't pay any attention to the heartless comments regarding the condition of your Mom's bike, especially on Mother's Day of all days! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I'm sure some Japanese collector on Ebay will be able to see past the surface rust. Greyhound?...Rusty Dog is more like it...but I digress.
by: 207.200.116.137






AGE / VALUE:   'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by: Dick in FL on 5/4/2005 at 5:03:40 PM
Randy ... are you out there? I just ran across a very nice racy Canadian 10-speed at my local thrift. A Pro-Ten. The frame is what intrigues me; it is very light with a substantial kickstand boss integrated into the formation of the bottom bracket lug. The chain stays can *never* get pinched. Also, the rear dropouts were formed with integral tubular lugs that slip over the ends of the chainstays and seat stays. It has alloy clincher wheels, and the paint looks to be perfect in an appealing metallic safron (tanferine?). It has been marked down to $24.95 in its first 24 hours. What can you (or anyone) tell me about this model? Is some knowledgeable 'urban outdoorsman' going to appear and snatch it away from me before it descends to my $6 obligatory purchase point?

Dick in FL
by: 172.144.53.118


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by Randy on 5/5/2005 at 1:46:38 AM
I recently passed an almost mint Pro Ace on to a friend here in, not so sunny, Thunder Bay, Canada. The Pro Ace was an entry level bicycle, at best, and of very little interest to me. I have never heard of a Pro Ten but if it has an integral kick stand mount, chances are it is less than collectable(just an opinion). I would, however, love to have a few pictures of it so that I can show others on my web site.

Some of the better Canadian bicycles that I am aware of, and I am by no means an expert but I am learning quickly, are as follows:

Miele built a full range of bicycles, ranging from entry level to full Columbus SXL tubed, Campagnolo "Super Record" equipped rides. I have owned and still do own a few of the mid level Mieles and they have proved to be very well made and a treat to ride. I am ever on the watch for a high end model. I have devoted a bit of space to the Miele that I like and ride on my web site, in case you are interested. I also have two other Mieles, one of which will be offered on Ebay as soon as I have a chance to check it over and ensure that its structural integrity has been preserved.

Gardin is another high end Canadian brand that I have had some experience with. Again, they were offered in a variety of levels, from entry to full blown racing of the highest quality. As I understand it, a local fellow, Kurt Harnett, was sponsered by and rode Gardins to fame on, two occassions, in the Olympic games. I have three Gardins, one I am keeping and two are for sale or trade. I recently refurbished my Columbus tubed, full Campagnolo "Victory" equipped Gardin and took it out for its test ride. Nice bike, to say the least. The ride was short lived, since the tires were just too old to last for long. The Gardin "Victory" is now hanging in the shed and slated for a full restoration, next winter. I might even throw a set of tires on it and ride it a few more time just to be sure of the bicycle's structural integrity.

I am also familiar with the Cambio Rino brand and I have an absolutely lovely example of these beautiful bicycles. Actually, I have two Cambio Rinos but I am interested in one only, the Cambio Rino "2000". It has a full Champion #1 butted chrome moly frame, complete with fork and seat stay supports. All of the components are pantographed with the Cambio Rino name. I found the bike at the local dumb and the tires even had air in them(it is, I might add, very difficult to find vintage air these days). The Cambio was quickly refurbished and taken out for a test ride last summer. It is, by far, the nicest riding Canadian bicycle that I own. One test ride turned into another and I ended up riding the bicycle for the rest of the summer(on and off with other favorite mounts). I just took the Cambio down this week for a full blown restoration. All of the components have been cleaned up and a couple do need to be replaced. Fortunately, I just scored a Rino grouppo on Ebay, for a good price, and the set is NOS. I will put pictures of the Cambio Rino "2000" on my web site as soon as I finish the bicycle. I might add, that the Cambio Rino has, in my humble opinion, the ugliest decals that I have ever seen. While I'm on the subject of Cambio Rinos, I have a second Cambio Rino for sale or trade and it is in very good condition.

Sekines are another very popular Canadian made bicycle, but like the others mentioned, they are no longer being produced. I have a vey nice example of a Sekine SHT 270, which is the second from the top of the Sekine line. It is very well made and one of the quickest handling bikes in my collection. I must admit that I have not ridden the SHT for a while now. Perhaps I will take it out for a spin on the weekend. Again, for those who would like to have a look, check out my web site. The SHT was one of the first high end bicycles that I acquired and, as you might expect, I found it at the dump.

Canadian Peugeots are wonderful riding and beautifull crafted bicycles. I have owned and still do own several and one in particular proved to be a collection favorite. It is featured on my web site. I used the bicycle, a black Peugeot "Super Sport", for commuting to and from work for one season and it was a great ride. Of all the bicycles I have owned, the Super Sport had the longest wheel base and rode like it was on rails. I sold the bicycle to a fellow in High Rivers, Alberta and he rides it to this day. Yep, I got it at the dump and it still had the price sticker on it, $329.00 CND. What a nice bike! I also have a Canadian made Peugeot "PS28" and it is the fastest bicycle in my collection, I think. Cosmetically, the Shimano 105 equipped bicycle is a disaster but I just can't part with it. I recently acquired a Peugeot "PB14". It seems to be well made, with triple butted chrome moly tubing, but I have not had a chance to check it over and ride it yet. It might become a keeper. I had and sold a Peugeot "PB10" and what a great bicycle it was. I could ride it but it was just a tad too large so I let it go to a fellow in British Columbia. The bicycle was almost mint and a joy to ride. That said, one slip off of the pedals and my wife would be most unhappy... Finally, with respect to Canadian made Peugeots, I have owned and still do own several UO8s. They are great, entry level, bicycles that offer very nice rides. If you ever get the chance to grab one cheap, do so. You won't be disappointed. They are well made and very nice to ride.

I have come across several CCM ten speeds but none that impress me. It has been my pleasure to view one CCM "Tour de Canada" but I have never had the opportunity to ride one so my comments regarding the CCM marque must remain limited. I do hope to acquire a good quality CCM one day and I am ever looking.

Norco is another well known Canadian bicycle and I have two examples of the brand. Both are Norco "Avanti" models and I would expect that they are mid leve quality, at best. I have not had a chance to refurbish or test either one but intend to do so before this riding season is over. With that in mind, once again, my comments are limited.

The more I study Canadian made bicycles the more brands I come across. I have a few Velo Sports and these were very nice bicycles to ride. I recently sold an almost mint Velo Sport "Criterium" to a fellow in the US. The bike was rare, by Velo Sport standards, but just a bit too big for me to ride. I presently have a Velo Sport "Prestige" and an "Alpine". The Alpine is cosmetically challanged and will need to be test ridden before I decide what to do with it. The Prestige is a great bike and it is fun to ride.

Appollo is another Canadian brand and the company offered well made bicycles of all levels of quality. I do not own a really good Appollo but I do own a very early, Trevor Deeley head badged model which I am hanging on to just because it is old. I might get around to fixing it up one of these days.

A friend of mine has a beautiful Marioni, a very well know Canadian make, and a Proctor which is not so well known. Both bicycles are interesting and I have tried to get the Proctor but it is his spring ride and he refuses to part with it. Again, my eyes are ever looking...

That about sums up my experience with Canadian made bicycles. They are fast becoming the focus of my collection and I always on the lookout for the next neat CMB(Canadian Made Bicycle).

I have to make a decision regarding my web site. It is full and the band width is inadequate. If I am going to expand the site I must start spending money on it and I think that I will do just that. I have had a lot of people contact me for information regarding different Canadian made bicycles and I have done my best to assist with their quests for information. One of the first topics I would like to share is how to roughly estimate the vintage of a lightweight road bicycle. I will be asking for help and input when that time comes. I do hope that some of you will be willing to assist with information.


by: 216.211.61.154

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by Reggie on 5/3/2007 at 7:05:36 AM
I have an Alpine road bike that I purchased about 13 years ago. I am trying to find info on it but I am not having much luck. It is equipped with Shimano 105 brakes, nitto bars and neck and is a chrome moly frame. It is a very nice, fast and responsive road bike. Do you know if the company was purchased or did they just go out of business. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
by: 66.150.138.5

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by pana on 7/2/2007 at 10:34:38 AM
hi i just got a godin road bike carrera azzuro with a columbus matrix frame
and i am trying to find some background info about this bike
is this a good bike to spend some money to keep it on rolling?
it has campagniolo parts on it
thanks
Pana
by: 69.157.190.140

   RE: Velo Sport Alpin and Appalache bikes posted by Stephane Lapointe on 10/13/2007 at 12:47:03 AM
About your Velo Sport Alpin bike, I own a Velo Sport Appalache wich is a very similar model. The 18 speed Alpin was retailing for about $385 in 1982, the 12 speed Appalache was about $355. I was 16 years old when I bought my Apalache in 1982, I couldn't afford the Alpin. Both bikes came with front/rear racks and fenders, same beige color, different derailleur. It may sound weird but I still use my Apalache for bike trips (fully loaded with camping gears) and just this summer I made about 1000km on Quebec's bike paths. Those bikes are very tough and reliable. Still have the original gears and wheels ! The company still exist. The Velo Sport brand was dropped when Pro-Cycle bought the Peugeot rights for Canada. Then the bikes were named the Peugeot Appalache and Alpin. I am surprised at how little information there is on the net about those bikes. They were quite popular with the early '80s road trekkers, along with the Mikado's, Lugger gears, long hair dudes.
by: 216.137.97.186

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by shaun on 12/2/2007 at 9:23:32 PM
Hey i just picked up a columbus tubed LeCroco with shimano 105 group . I was told it was a handmade canadian bike . however i cant find any info on the frame builder or anything about the bike . thanks for any replies


by: 154.20.169.204


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: 'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by stillthere on 5/9/2008 at 5:29:13 PM

I have a Velo Sport Pyrenees mountain bike, hardtail. Blue 18" (45cm) chrome-moly frame. DBS frame technology. It is indeed a fun and smooth ride. Still original components.


by: 99.224.65.223


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: 'Canadien' Pro-Ten? posted by stillthere on 5/9/2008 at 5:32:56 PM
I have a Velo Sport Pyrenees mountain bike. hardtail, cromo 18" DBS frame. Nice ride. Original components.


by: 99.224.65.223