| I have recently tryed to go cold turkey collecting anything with 2 wheels that comes across my path, but last thursday it was 50% discount day at my favorite thrift store and there I was digging through the huffy's and magna's.|
nothing there to knock me off the wagon so I left and on my way back to the car I stopped by their scrap/garbage area.
And there sticking out of the scrap box was a nice looking blue frame.I waited for the coast to clear and went over and there in the heap was a blue frame with the name cannondale on it,wow how could I not pull that out. well after much wrestling and moving the old microwave that was thrown in on top I extracted a 1990 Cannondale s/r400 road race frame.(apprx 57cm). Some goof had tryed to remove the
fork stem by using an old seat post tube,driving it in to the opposite end of the fork stem and mushrooming the end of the post. It is in there good,but I love a challenge, the problem here and I guess the reason I am writing this is that when the donation attendant threw the old microwave
in on top of the frame he nicked the right side down tube and put a small dent/slight bend in the tube. this is an aluminum frame and only a slight deformation,any guesses on the chance this will break if I try to straighten it out?
this frame still has the pedal cranks, and downtube shifters and front derailer, I think I can get the fork tube removed, but with the frame damage is this frame junk?
Thanks for any input Jon in Des Moines
| I am a professional industrial mechanic and vintage bicycle collecting and riding enthusiast. Aluminium, unlike steel, does not respond well to bending and/or then straightening. The is a good chance that the metal has cracked or will crack when it is straightened. That said, try straightening it out and then dye test it for cracks or even have it x-rayed(dye testing you can do yourself but x-ray needs the services of a specialist). For my money, unless the bicycle is something really!!! special, write it off. If there is a crack, a failure could be catastrophic. Aluminium will simple break in half, not bend like steel does. I don't know about you, but I would not want to be testing the material's structural integrity every time I take the bike out for a "hammer down" spin. Just one guy's opinion, of course.|
| Hiya Jon!|
My wife's Cannondale CAAD4 got down-tube dings from a cluster while in air transit. Tube's still straight, & rather than try & roll out the ding, we've left it. Would that be an option with this one? (1 bend seems to be possible with aluminium, 2 is asking for disaster, as Randy says!
| At last resort, you may want to look into Cannondale's frame exchange program...not sure if you need any reciepts, proof of ownership, etc, but it's worth a look... |
| I came across this beautifully constructed machine at a GW store yard, heaped in with a bunch of "yard art" candidates.|
Ouch!, the price was $50. I passed initially, but later on my senses returned and I made a quick run back to pick it up. First off, I noticed the exquisite deep blue paint job, then the graceful lugwork. The SunTour "Arx" derailers place the year about 1980 or close to that time, I think. Tange Champion #2 butted tubes; Sugino "GT" triple ring with a real granny; Suzue sealed LF hubs; narrow, HP Araya rims; SR stem and "Champion" bars and the brakes are the racing version of sidepulls (high reach, high leverage). I have no clue what this bike sold for as new, but there are few vintage lightweights that match the workmanship, IMHO. This bike looks handmade and the ride is superb. 40 inch wheelbase makes for brisk handling and good acceleration (this is on a 25" frame!). Fortunately, the decals are available for sale as one has a slight tear on the downtube. Shifters are downtube mounted, like on a racing bike, instead of stem or bar-end mounted shifters that were typical of touring bikes. The rear triangle is tight, but the forks have some trail which smoothes the ride a bit. I know the company (went out in '80's) built even finer bikes than this, which is hard to imagine. I learn something new about VLW's everyday. One feature that stikes me as unusual is there are threaded bosses for water-bottle cage on underside of the down-tube, as well as a set on the usual location on the upper-side of the tube. I know that $50 seems like a lot of bread for a bike-boom VLW, but if you find one in excellent condition like this one, I would say take a second look. Whoever oversaw the building of the Sakai bicycles was a master with a penchant for perfection in the art, IMHO. The Champion #2 tubing is a great choice for a heavier rider or for heavy touring.
| If you hadn't gone back to get it you would be posting an essay on how you regret not buying this fine example of a VLW, what a missed opportunity it was. You would describe the saltiness of the tears running down your cheeks when you went back hoping to buy it and found it gone.|
Rule #1 Always buy the bike. If you don't, some ham-fisted clod will get ahold of it and reliably destroy it.
| Rule #2: If you find two bikes you want, and can only cart home one at a time (for whatever reason), speak with the manager about pre-paying for it, and coming back to get it after you drop home the first cycle.|
Rule #3: Careful with some Salvation Army prices - I've seen a few of them try to take folks for a loop with their price tags.
| Has any one ever seen, or heard of,a quality seat post and clamp in the 13/16 size used on Schwinn Continental and others in the 60s-70s?I ride one of these(modified drivetrain),and would like a higher quality item to attach the Brooks Flyer that I have learned to love so dearly.Any help is appreciated.----------JSW|
| Look under the BMX bikes(ebay) they are very common--sam|
| Hi All, |
I was given an old Nishiki International a couple years ago and after riding it and putting many miles on it I was intrested in finding out a little info about it.
Does anyone here know how to determine a date for it? The serial number startes with KG. Thanks for any help.
| If it has any original Shimano components (although I suspect it was Suntour) you can date those...AA is Jan '76...AB Feb of '76...BC is March of '77 etc.|
| The "International" was introduced in the U.S. in late 1971 or early 1972 as the "Kokusai," with a straight gauge CrMo main triangle, SunTour ratchet stem shifters, a Sugino Maxy crankset with 54-48 rings, a 14-18-22-28-34 SunTour freewheel, SunShine high-flange 36-hole hubs, 4-cross stainless steel spokes, and DiaCompe centerpull brakes with suicide levers. From this humble overweight, spongy-riding root, it evolved over the years into a very respectable road machine. Early specimens have the serial number, starting the a "K" for "Kawamura," stamped into the bottom of the BB shell.|
| After doing some research I have found out a few things about my bike, mostly it components and thiee age. |
The deraillers are Suntour, the front has a date code of TG and the rear a TH.
The crank is Sugino Super Maxy, Left date code is G-9 and the Right is G-10
The rear wheel is Shimano(27") and probably original. When I received the bike it didn't have a front tire nor any brake assembly or brake cables. Everything else seems to be original except for the seat which i replaced.
| The TG and TH date codes probably pretty well cinch it as a 1977 production...(184 is A..., then work it backwards). The earliest I've seen is P..., (on a couple of SunTour ders. Vx as I seem to recall) which apparently is 1973. The Super Maxy crank seems consistent, though I don't know the Sugino coding... Here's a useful site:|
| Oops...forgot the URL:|
| This is a great bike and you can own for no where close to what you would pay at an expensive retail bike shop or from the manufactuer I built this bike my self I am a auto tech. with twenty years of experience I recently became disabled My lose is your gain . The components used to assemble this bike are rock shock , Boxxer front forks eight inch travel Progressive fifth element , rear suspension nine inch travel, Titanium spring 450lbs also steel spring 500lbs, Hayes front and rear brakes eight inch disk hydraulic, Truvativ downhill cranks, MRP chain guide, Rapid fire eight speed, Easton peddles, King head set, Easton monkey bar, Intense seat, Intense lock on grip, Sun downhill wheel sets with Sun hubs, twenty millimeter front and twelve millimeter rear, and an Intese downhill seat no rips or tears. This bike makes no strange noises and is assemled with all smooth cartridge bearing at all pivot points. The frame offers four different adjustments for rider preference and conditions.|
| Wrong forum. Try "bikes for sale," or "reader classifieds."|