| I have two Atala Competeziones bought new in 1973. They have Stronglight cranks, Campy Tipo hubs, and TTT stems. One has campy black SL pedals, and the other has the chrome Campy record pedals. Rims are Mavic sew-up on both. Bars on one are Japanese Cinelli knock-offs, the other is TTT. Derailleurs are Shimano on one, and Suntour on the other.|
I am pretty sure the bars, stems, and the black Campy pedals I added. I think the rest is "stock" Competezione, although the bikes were bought at the same time. Any opinions?
Also, we bought these as having the "same frame" as the more expensive Atala. Anyone remember what these were called?
Part of my curiosity is from an eBay ad of a Competezione showing steel rims, Schrader valves, the "hole in the back of the head" Pivo stem, and a doofy touring saddle with those little tabs on the back for a bag. Ours are Unicanitors, which I almost surely added.
Thanks for your help!
| Unfortunately, the catalogues during that era were not as thorough in stating components as to-day's catalogues. From 1973:|
Frame: Columbus double butted
Brakes: Weinmann 999 center pull
Rims: Mavic alloy
Crankset: Stronglight 93
Hubs: Campagnolo Nuovo Tipo
Front derailleur: Campagnolo Nuovo Valentino
Rear derailleur: Campagnolo Gran Tourismo
Handlebar: light alloy reinforced TTT
Due to parts shortages during the bicycle boom, bicycles often came with substituted components, however it is likely that Atala would have gone to a Italian or at European supplier in such cases. I think it's fairly safe to assume that the Japanese components are non-original. The pedals (both sets) are likely non-original too.
The top of the line Atala model during this era was called the Record Professional.
| Thanks, T-Mar!|
Great research job! I think your info is accurate. My frames have a Reynolds 531 (double butted style)sticker instead of Columbus. I suspect Atala swallowed their pride and substituted English tubing for the Columbus due to shortages during the bike boom, as you suggested.
The Valentino and Gran Tourismo derailleurs make sense. There is a "Prodotti Speciali Campagnolo" sticker on the seat tube, and that can't be there only because of the Tipo hubs. Also, I remember knowing what a piece of junk the Valentino was, and now I know it is likely because at one time I had a couple of them! I have to wonder what happened to them. Hopefully, I burned them!
Yes, the "good" Atala was indeed Record Professional as I recall. I think it was full Campy -- cranks, pedals, brakes, and "real" Campy derailleurs. I think it was a little over twice as much as the Competezione.
Thanks again for your help!
|I recently picked up an Atala Record 101 Professional(sans wheels and I really need a good headbadge, in case anyone has one for sale or trade - please) for $20.00, and began searching out information on the bicycle. My Atala is of 1971 vintage, however; I did find a great 1973 Atala information sheet describing the componentry of all Atala models for 73. The document can be found in the Italian section at Classic Rendezvous. The address is: http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/atala/Atala_advert.htm Hope this is a help. I found the document to be extremely useful. Good luck with your bikes.|
| Thanks Randy!|
I downloaded the catalog page. Oddly, my two Atalas don't show on the color choices! One is silver with blue accents. the other is navy blue with white accents.
The catalog confirms T-Mar knowledge that Atalas are Columbus. I am looking at my Reynolds 531 sticker, and scratching my head. The Italians, no matter what they do, always do things in fun and interesting ways. You gotta love 'em! I swear, the new Atalas in '73 smelled of garlic!
Oddly, Classic Rendezvou is on my "favorite places" list. Guess I missed this one.
| Even though Clasic Rendevous states the ad is from 1973, I believe it is for the 1974 models. There are some minor differences with respect to my 1973 specs (i.e. tires)and the ad does match what I have for 1974.|
Several Italian manufacturers were using Reynolds tubing in the early 1970s. Cinelli, Frejus and Legnano were all available with Reynolds 531 on their top models during this period. It was a time when Reynolds was still regarded as slightly superior to Columbus, but Columbus' reputation was rapidly growing and many manufacturers were starting to switch. The Reynolds decal and colour makes me wonder if the Competizone might be a 1972 holdover that was purchased in 1973, and that Atala may have switched to Columbus for 1973?
| I came across this thread while searching Atala bicycles. I have been fascinated with Atala ever since I bought my Competizione (white w/red accents) in 1973. It was $240, and the Record Pro was $400! I really wanted the Record Pro, but I was in college, and my budget wouldn't allow it. I still have the Competizione, and I also have the original catalog spec sheet I got at the cycle shop when I bought the bike. The sheet is identical to the one available on the web. My bike, which has a 1973 serial number, also is Reynolds tubing. I questioned the shop owner about this at the time of purchase, and was told that Reynolds was substituted for Columbus fairly regularly, and that there was little difference between the two. |
With all the availability of vintage parts on the web, I recently began restoring my bikes. As luck would have it, I also found a 1972 Record Pro (day-glow/white) on Ebay, and bought it. It is in poor cosmetic condition, but I plan on restoring it. It has Columbus tubing.
| I just picked up an Atala Competizione frame, with a stronglight BB and the 3T stem (hole in back!) for a hundred clams. I was skeptical at first, being my main squeeze is an 87 pinarello montello... but i built it up as a fixed gear, with late '70's raleigh cranks, a weinman center pull front brake .... and wow this thing really zips! I did not expect such an amazing ride...|
I don't know what year it is: it's flat silver paint, the only indication it's an atala is the destroyed headbadge, but it has a "reynolds 531 butted" sticker and campy dropouts, crome on the stays, fork and headlugs, and blue stripes on the tubes where one would expect to find a logo. what a bike...
| "Not the death stem!" |
"It's the death stem!"
"Is this the death stem?"
"It's not the death stem!"
...and something tells me I'll never pick up a Schwinn Continental again.
I'm back to working on the Continental, after finishing up some other projects here and there. I'm still stumped as to this damn AVA stem - is it, or is it not, the "death stem?" Or are all lugged AVA stems "death stems?" Or just those from the '70s?
I can't answer these questions, and neither can 90% of the posts found via search engines do so either. I'm coming to you fellows for help, hopefully you can help me here...
This is the stem type I am mainly concerned about - the one shown below in the photo is identical to the one I pulled out in two pieces from the Continental:
My question #1 is: Is THIS the death stem?
Question #2 is: If this is the death stem, are there any suitable replacements (in appearance) existing out there? I have an RIVO with a similar lugged pattern, but the diameter of the stem is incorrect.
| Check http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-114180, if you haven't already. The PIVO and AVA look nearly identical. I have PIVOs on two Gitanes from the early 70s.|
As you probably know, the French used 22.0 stems and take 25.0 (exactly 1") bars. Check yours with a mike and see. I am pretty sure the PIVO was also made in the Italian size.
If you use your magnifier, I suspect you fill find your "RIVO" to be a "PIVO". Your PIVO is likely Italian size, but I am surprised that the Continental would be French size. Time to get out the mike! Maybe it is the other way around.
Good news is that I never heard of a Continental stem break or a PIVO stem break. Our club had over 800 members (with a huge variety of bikes) back in the 70s, so if they did break, it had to be pretty rare.
| My understanding is that the you have pictured is not the death stem. The death stem has the handlebar binder bolt positioned underneath the clamp, parallel to the ground. I had the same experience as you with an old '63 Continental though. The stem was broken in the same place from the wedge.|
| In my humble opinion, any aluminum stem of that vintage is now a stem of death, because of possible metal fatigue. This isn't collector-approved, but all of my daily drivers have relatively new stems.|
| I tend not to be a fearful rider...if it gets too scary for you, why ride?? However, I try to be aware and think about what might be going on with my bike and the various components. Stems are obviously rather critical...no stem...no control.... I agree with John E. ..all old stems should be viewed critically...ones that look in reasonable shape and appear to have been associated with relatively low mileage bikes...that's OK with me... old beatup looking stems...I wouldn't use them, or I would be rather cautious... After a bike/car incident I had almost two years ago now, I found the stem on my Nishiki commuter was twisted (the handlebars were badly bent too)... And that was from my hands and arms...me hanging on for dear life until I flipped over the top of the car and landed on my back... relatively minor damage to me...a couple of stitches below my knee and a cracked helmet...:) There can be rather dramatic forces put on the bars and stem... One of my cycling buddies had a handlebar break...he survived. I have a Cinelli stem with a split at the mounting bolt. Another area where I try to be cautious is with brake cables. I've had cables break twice... one time I had to run into the side of a building to avoid a car...fotunately I was almost stopped. Another time I stopped about 6 feet into an intersection after the cable snapped during an unexpected stop. Brake cables tend to snap went you need them most ...kind of obvious, I guess, because of the extra force you're putting on them. Watch the brake cables!!! Get rid of those rusty, frayed old cables!!! Cheap or old tires are another false economy...who wants a blow-out at any kind of speed??? Broken chain anyone??? I could go on... Don't be fearful...but do try to be aware...:) |
| Can any one tell me what year or any infomation on a Schwinn (Racer)Serial #L420133. |
| If the number is on the left rear dropout, it's a 64.|
| In fact, the frame was made in November 1964. (A=Jan, B=Feb, ..., H=Aug, I is not used, to avoid confusion with "1," J=Sep, M=Dec.)|
| I have a similiar question:|
I'm confused by "bunchobikes" Schwinn serial number charts.
I have a number on the bottom bracket : K74851 -AND- a number on the headbadge: 0408
So it could be October (the K) something "7" (77,87,...)
it could be the 40th day of '88.
Any guesses? It's a racer type frame.
| I can't remember.....Which is better...Tange 2 or Tange 5?|
| 2...or 1...or pro.|
| HELP!! I'm putting my Schwinn Super Sport together and I can't get the front derailleur to work. Oh, it moves and I have adjusted it to allow maximum travel of the cage. The problem is it doesn't seem to have enough travel to move the chain to the big ring. It comes close and makes noise, but it doesn't move the chain off the small ring. It is the original derailleur so it must have worked at one time. Can't really replace it since the seat tube isn't the standard size and all my spare fr ders are too small. Anyone have any ideas?|
| Oh yeah at little info on the bike might help. It is a 1972 Super Sport, and I am using the original Ashtabula crankset. tried using the conversion kit but had the problem with the derailleur so thought going back to the original carnks would help. It didn't.|
| Did you try adjusting the "high" max-travel screw? |
Should be two adjuster screws on the derailer - one to determine how close the derailer may come to the frame, the other to determine where it stops when you shift to the big ring (you don't want to shift the chain right off the chainwheel, you know!).
Turn the high gear adjustment screw counterclockwise (unscrewing, basically) just slightly, and try shifting again. Just make sure you don't over-adjust it.
| Yes. The high gear adjusting screw is adjusted all the way out. Actually i was thinking of just taking it off so I don't lose it. Still no big chainring. Now I am trying this with barend shifters rather than the stem shifters but I don't think that matters. |
| Try this.|
| Well it seems to be working now. I put the deraileur as close to the crankrings as I could, and now it is going into the big chainring. I finished the other cable, put on natural color cork tape and have the second coat of shellac on it. Looking really nice. Tomorrow is the test drive. Thanks!|