| I had noticed lately that the old lightweights had pretty-much dried up. My most recent being the Schwinn Super Sport a while back. But regardless, I keep looking whenever I have an opportunity to stop by a thrift store - I'll pop in and have a quick look. Well, yesterday, I stop by my favorite store.....I don't see anything......the same old junk...maybe a different mtn bike or something.....then I spot something......It's a Nishiki Prestige. I look at the frame.....Tange 2.....I pick it up.....wow....probably a 21 or 22 pounder. And the price could not be beat.....so I got it. It has Araya 700C wheels with QR, Suntour Cyclone, ......I can't remember everything else....fittings for 2 water bottle cages.....It did, however, have a straight bar - with high rise stem - conversion. That's OK....because I had been looking for another stem like that. Those alloy mtn handle bars will work well for the cross bike frankenbike thing I'm building. I can put some drop bars and aero levers on this Prestige. The rear wheel has some warp - but I think I will be able to straighten it. The frame color is black and white.|
Anyone know of any links or other information on these old Nishiki bikes? I have had a few of them.....a "Sport"...that I sold.....and "Olympic" that I sold.....I have an "Olympic" currently that I converted to fixed gear. This Prestige is the best quality, lightest Nishiki I have had.
| I've reconditioned four of these Nishikis... a very old Custom Five, an Olympic 12 (which I used for a century), a Nishiki Century with "accushift", and a splendid early 70's Competition from the original owner who had already upgraded it with bar-cons and Dura-Ace components. New everything! I believe the Competition was second from the top in those days. The Competition hangs in my den.|
The Custom Five came to me with an unusual alloy upright handlebar ... North Road style. The ends of these bars turn toward the back of the bike which allows me to ride with the same wrist orientation as drop bars. I tried converting a Centurion with straight mountain style handlebars. Not for me! Straight bars rotate my wrists to an uncomfortable angle and force my elbows out.
Sorry to report that these have dried up around here as well.
| Gralyn, your Prestige sounds like the 1986 model. |
| I started stripping down to the frame this evening. Since the bars and stem were a replacement - I couldn't get a date code off them. There was a code on the seat post - but I can't figure out what it means. As I get into it I will probably find more date code information.....or a catalog.....etc. |
.....why would you say it's an '86 model?
.....Dia-compe "G" brakes. Araya gold anodized rims.
.....I did start trying to straighten that rear wheel. It was looking pretty bad.....and I was about to give up on it....but I kept at it and now it's pretty straight...just needs some fine-tuning.
| I've got one of these, in dove blue metallic, same components. Mine's a 24.5" frame at the least - never measured it. Only have the original frameset w/some components, nothing else. Was given to me by a local cycle customizer.|
| I just (yesterday!) bought a silver Nishiki Prestige at a yard sale. Not even sure of the frame size--I think my old Trek hybrid is a 17 or 19," so something in that range. It also has the odd gold/copper brown finish on some of the components; Dia-Compe brakes, Suntour components, original metal toe clips, etc. Anybody know anything about this kind of bike? Age, value? I just took a gamble on it because I wanted something light and it fit me and seemed in decent, if very dirty, shape. I'm looking forward to cleaning it up, getting some nice tape on the handlebars and riding a rode bike again! Thanks!|
| Hi, I have a Nishiki Superbe, that I believe dates back to the early eighties. Does anyone know anything about this model? It weighed about 20lbs, the last time I checked.|
| Well its nice to hear the love for this bike. I've been riding my prestiege for 22 years. [bought it in '84]I bought it new for 350$ here in Los Angeles. Mine is jetblack with silver lettering and trim. Most components are original. Tange chromoly doublebutted tubing. Anodized bronze araya rims. Light burgundy anodized diacompe brakes. It has always ridden like silk. Does anyone know any info about kamamrura the frame manufacturer? I wouldn't know what it would sell for now. I ride it 22miles about 4 to 5 days a week. I'll never get rid of it. What a wonerful friend its been tyo me all these years.|
| The Nishki 1984/85 Prestige was my first real road bike. Very reliable bike with 6-speed components- Suntour Cyclone- Araya rims- Sugino Crank, Dia Compe brakes. Does anyone remember what the bars and stems were? It was a sweet light silver metallic with a little red, with dark red panels on seat tube and head tube. My brother in law has it mothballed in his garage after I gave it to him. If he ever trashes it, I'll whack him one.|
| If any of you are interested in selling your nishiki prestige, let me know. I wrecked mine awhile back and i just cant get used to anything else...56 cm. or bigger, maybe 58 or 59...id take any ay this point...please let me know, Chris.|
| Chris, I just bought a black nisiki prestige at a local trift store. It's all original and in great shape, it's probably a 58. I just could not pass it up but I have way too many bikes. If you are still interested let me know and I will send you photos.Tom|
| Found a black Prestige frame without wheels. Are the Arayas 700C or 27-in?|
| I am test riding a Nishiki Linear (not the time trial funny bike) from my neighbour who bought it for his daughter in the late 80's but she never rode it. Chromoly main tubes, frame with "Designed by Norco" sticker on it, functional but low end Shimano Light Action derailler. Looks like it was hardly riden - no tire wear at all. Nice riding bike and should be able to get it for a nice price.|
| I just picked up a nishiki prestige kinda funny looking though. The front wheel is noticeably smaller than the rear. Did i just pick up a woman's bike?|
| I just got a NIshiki Olympic 12 from the orginal owner. He can't remmber if it is '84 or '86.|
The rear wheel hub is broken at two spoke holes. Wher can I get replacement wheels?
It has 700c X 25 tires; I want to run 700 X 30 tires. Where is best place to get inexpensive tires and tubes?
My bike is really light. I got caught in the rain yesterday.
I think it is fast too.
| I'm selling my '86 Nishiki on eBay, it ends today. I would have posted sooner, but I just found this forum:|
| I just bought a linear nishiki bike in a garage sale for $10. I do not know much about this type bike. Any info on the bike and what it might be worth would be very helpful to me.|
| I just dug my dad's Prestige out of the basement. The top tube is a tad on the cozy side but it's free transportation so I'll roll it. I think I must have an '86 because from the descriptions I'm reading, I'm seeing the exact same components. Bronze Araya 700Cs, Sugino VP drivetrain, Handcrafted by Kawamura. As for the bars, I'm sure they're original and I could go look, but that'd involve a trip downstairs. Besideds, I flipped it over and chopped the bars for the TT look. Sorry to say I can't bring any more info to the table than anyone else did, and my bag is really more DH/Freeride so my knowledge regarding roadbikes is limited.|
| I have a Nishiki Century with maybe 300 miles total on it. My father bought it in 1983 or 1984. I took it out of his garage and am thinking about turning it into a single speed, not a fixie.|
I also thought about buying some Ultegra drivetrain and brakes but from the looks of it, I have NO clue if anything would fit. i have never seen actual bolts on a bike.
Any feedback is good feedback. let me know some ideas.
|I have a Nishiki Prestige that's only been ridden about 10 times for sale on Craig's list in Boise, if you live in the area. That's not rust on the sprocket (or whatever it's called, I'm not a biker, thus why I'm selling).|
| It's funny that so many are interest in this bike. I have my original receipt from 1989. Paid $395 for it. Can you imagine how much it would be today. Rode it maybe 10 times. |
| I just posted one of these on craigslist in cincinnati. It was my father's and hardly ever ridden. Great shape! Just needs new tires. |
| Hi i have a few 56 cm nishiki prestige's, and if anybody has a 58 cm to trade, or sell, let me know. Looking for one with tange infinity tubing.|
| I have aquired a Nishiki Prestige. Don't know how old it is. Everything works great on it and I heard they are worth something. It has a little surface rust on it, but nothing is wrong with it. Does anyone know how much it would go for?|
| Yes. they vary. I'd be interested in it if its my size. Yesterday on ebay, one went for 69 bucks, and another went for just over 5 bucks. I am very interested, \so let me know...thanks, christian|
| Got the last pieces of the 1952 Express Werke bike today, the wheels. They are rather wide, much wider than normal 27's or 700s. The rims are made by Mayweg and are alloy. couldn't see the hub names, too much dirt. The rear hub has a 4 speed Regina gran tourisimo freewheel on one side and a 15 tooth fixed gear on the other (does this make it a 5 speed). The hubs spin freely and seem to be in fine shape. One question i have is the cable routing. The bike has no braze-ons and did not come with any cable stops. Anyone know where I can find the cable routing diagram for a similar bike? Also what do you do with the rear der when you flip to the fixed gear side??|
| Mayweg made the original front racks fot the 55 schwinn corvetts,good stuff---I bet the rims are too.|
The chain should have two master links.The rider would use the derailer for street use then shorten the chain for fixed racing.---sam
| I have a 27" J.C. Penney ten-speed w/ Shimano rear disc brake, and I want to know if Murray or any other company manufactured bikes for J.C. Penney around the '70's & '80's. Any help is appreciated. Thanx!|
| Why not ask JC Penney customer service to find out for you? They might just be interested. |
| I pulled a vintage Bianchi out of somebody's trash this weekend, and now I'm trying to determine its age and what I should do with it.|
* Bianchi Headbadge: Gold, "Made in Italy"
* Frame: Cool semi-ornate lugs, but cheezy stamped dropouts (stamped derailleur hanger), cool cutouts in fork lugs.
* Bianchi Logo: On seat tube, but the letters are all horizontal, rather than reading parallel to the seat tube.
* SN above Headbadge: 2A45444
* Downtube Shifters: Campagnolo
* Front Derailleur: Campagnolo
* Stem: TTT
* Skewers: Gnutti "Made in Italy"
* Hubs: Large flange (Gnutti?)
* Rims: San Remo, Steel 27", "Made in Italy"
* Crank: Mystery (Ofmega?) Cottered Crank
* Brakes: Weinmann center pulls
* Headset: I believe Campagnolo
* Rear Derailleur: Suntour VX -- I believe this was probably added later, though it could have been installed originally if the bike was made during that window of time when Suntour was simply building a better mousetrap. The reason I believe it was probably added later is because I saw a 60s model Bottechia that was set up very similarly to this Bianchi -- stamped dropouts, similar hardware,etc. -- except that it had a Campy Gran Sport rear derailleur on it.
So now, I have two options I'm exploring.
I've completely run out of room for bicycles. However, if the bike has collector appeal -- doubtful, but I want to know for sure -- I would definitely fix the bike up and keep it.
I might even do that anyway because I've been wanting a vintage Bianchi, but like I said, I've got so many bikes now, it would really, REALLY have to ride nice to make it worth the time to fix it up.
It's got a lot of surface rust, so I'd be looking at sandblasting and repainting. I have a NOS Bianchi (celeste/cream) headbadge left over from another project, and I can actually do a nice set of "Bianchi" decals and paint it up to look good as new if I want.
So option 1 is to fix it up and keep it; option 2 is to strip it down, clean up the parts and sell them on eBay.
Stripped down, I could probably get $100-200 for the parts, if sold individually. This would depend on whether or not I repaint and rebadge the frame and sell it, with the Campy headset, as a unit.
Like I said, I haven't decided what to do with the bike, so any advice or information would be appreciated. Thanks.
| You don't mention the models of Campagnolo equipment, which will go a long way towards determining the age and which option you should pursue. Based on what I see and the serial number, it could either be 1962 or 1972. The steel rims imply an entry level model, though the stamped dropouts with an integral hanger imply a club racer with the tubular wheelset having been replaced. |
Assuming 1972, the Campagnolo derailleur is probably a Valentino. It should be a push rod front derailleur with a large square housing behind the seat tube. There should be round collar on the housing where the push-rod exits the housing. If the collar is not present then it is a Gran Sport derailleur. (I am looking for one of these) and could push the possible date to 1962.
Assuming it is Valentino, there is not a lot of collector appeal for what amounts to an entry level, Italian bicycle. However, it is a Bianchi and they were not widely distributed in North America at that time, so there are very few around. It is was mine, I would probably keep it. Whether or not to repaint the frame is always a tough question with the old bicycles and depends on how much rust there is and what you can personally tolerate.
| T-Mar, have you decoded Bianchi serial numbers? Is the initial digit the last digit of the year? This would be consistent with my first (1962) Bianchi, 2F51703, and my current (1981) Bianchi, 1M9912. Does the letter denote the month, ala Schwinn, with A=Jan, H=Aug, J=Sep, and M=Dec?|
To me, the horizontal BIANCHI lettering on the seat tube says "1962," rather than "1972." I do concur that it was probably a Peugeot PA-10 equivalent entry level "racer," probably with Campag. Gran Sport derailleurs.
| Thanks T-Mar. I've been snooping around on eBay and other places trying to find pictures of vintage Campy equipment, but I haven't found anything even close to what I've got, at least not on the front derailleur. So I'll do my best to describe what I've got.|
The downtube shifters have the piecrust edges, and they read "PATENT CAMPAGNOLO", "VICENZA", and "ITALY" on them. The friction washers also read "Patent" and "Campagnolo". The wraparound attachment band is diamond-shaped, and it has a script text that reads "Campagnolo". This looked like a lot like shifters that sellers on eBay were calling Nuovo Record, but I'm not so sure they're not more generic.
The front derailleur seems to be a lot more unique. The cage appears to be steel, with "Campagnolo" in script stamped on the outside. And it's not round toward the front like the newer stuff is, but more angular ( / ) and pointy towards the front.
The wraparound band that attaches the front derailleur is aluminum, and it says "Campagnolo" in script towards the front. And over on the trapezoid part, towards the front, there's a C surrounded by a diamond
It doesn't have the large square housing. I saw some of those on eBay, and it wasn't like those. It looked more like the ones they were calling Nuovo Record, except that the trapezoid had the
And the more I'm thinking about it, the more I'm thinking I might end up keeping it after all. I'll probably end up scouting out an appropriate rear derailleur and get my "new" Bianchi in good running condition.
Painting it, I'm afraid, is just gonna HAVE to happen. So far, there isn't any deep pitting rust (yet), but it's just a matter of time.
It's missing about 30 percent of its original paint, replaced by light surface rust. So unless I bring it in the house and hang it on the wall, it's gonna need paint just for the rust prevention.
But like I said, I can do a pretty good paint job -- it wouldn't be my first -- plus I've got one headbadge for it, though I might explore either saving the old one or possibly scoring a more appropriate one on eBay.
| Okay, I broke down and got out my camera -- posted a ton of pictures at the links below. Hopefully this helps. Thanks.|
| I think the foil sticker head badge - puts it after 1969 or so?.....certainly not 1962?|
| just got a Puch "brigadeir", with a sticker on the down tube that says "Puch, 100 years". I have wanted this thing for years, and finaly got the crusty and mean owner talked down from 100$ to me fixing another of his bikes for it.|
got it home and was just doing that ha ha its finaly mine inspection when I noticed that the forks were a little swept back. that got me looking at the lugs on the head tube and there is a very slight crackle in the paint on the top and down tube. does anyone know any tricks to bend back the fork? the frame is not visibly bent, other than the paint. I think that the owner must have hit his head pretty hard when he bent it. he has a seventys raliegh that everything has dry rotted off of, bent wheels, bad paint, and a price of one fifty. when he says thats a bargain, and he would like two hundred, I tell him I would like a pony and a red wagon to pull with it. at this point he always kicks me out of his store. So anyway, I don't even know if this bike is worth messing with, but after all that effort getting it I would like to try.
| first it is my opinion that if you like it then it was worth it. if you secretly smile knowing it's there where you left it seconds ago it was worth it. if you go and look at it more than ten times a day it was worth it.|
on to your fork problem. I used to work at a bike shop that had a thing that attached to the fork at the drop outs and the other end at the bottom bracket(where the pedals go)then it had a jack on it and you pump the jack until the fork stays where you want it when you release the jack. this is done while the fork is on the bike. be careful doing it any other way because you stand a chance of flattening the steer tube or damaging the threads. you also must be careful not to do anything without the wheel on or you can bend the legs unevenly. also you must determine if it is bent at the steer tube or the fork legs(steer tube is easier to fix). if you are strong enough and tall enough and careful enough you can sit on the ground and put your feet on the cranks and pull on the forks at the wheel until it is straight. be very careful not to let your feet slip off the cranks while pulling for obvious reasons. also remember that once a fork is bent and bent back again it loses some of its strength. most bike shops will not touch it because of the liability if it breaks and kills you. be careful be safe check it over for problems after you straighten it and it should be ok for casual riding. enjoy, Scott
| You really need to find a good shop who can do this for you and then put it in a frame jig to align it and the forks properly. I usually pay around $75 to have this done here in Toronto.|
Stay away from that arse of a bike dealer...
| The tools required to re-bend a fork are simple. The problem lies with the accuracy of the tools required to verify the alignment. Just about any steel frame can be straightened without reliability issues, provided the tubes have not been creased or wrinkled. Shops that cite the reliability concern usually are only trying to sell you a new bicycle and/or are too cheap to invest in the proper tools.|
You mention the crackle in the paint on the top and down tubes. This normally happens on the top of the tube, where it stretches during a frontal impact. Make sue you check on the bottom of the tubes and the back of the fork blades, where the compression (creases and wrinkles) normally occur. Hopefully, there are none.
| Well, all that helped. once you know it can be done, and all. I made a machine out of a old front hub, a long worm gear and lathed a neoprene bushing to run throught the bottom bracket(not wanting to dimple the race by just connecting it to the spindle). It looks kind of mad max but it worked well, at least for the price range. I hope to ride my next century on this thing, so I hope I got it right. brute strength and ignorance seem to have, once again, got the job done. jason|
| This is just the kind of thing that is good to share with each other, in my opinion. I, too, am faced with the problem of a slightly tweeked headtube. I like some of the ideas that I have just heard and feel better about attempting to straighten the bike out myself. I have already managed to get a seat and chain stay alignment at the drops corrected. If I can't do it properly, I will gladly take the frame to a shop. I believe the Rochet to be worth it.|
| My one collision with a motor vehicle (left-hook) pushed the head tube of my first Capo to near-vertical, dimpling the top tube and downtube as described above. I had it straightened at a reputable bike shop and rode it for another 6 years, but the downtube eventually cracked, right as I was racing some kid on a Varsity up a steep hill. I retired the frame and gave it to a friend who taught bicycle repair and auto shop. I wish I had known how easy it is to replace bent tubes on a silver-soldered frame, and how rare and potentially valuable my 1960 Capo frame was. |
My brother had the same experience with his first bike, a bottom-of-the-line early 1960s Bianchi road bike.
My advice is to enjoy the restraightened frame, but to be alert for cracks and creaks behind the head tube.