AGE / VALUE:   Identifying Old Track/Road Frame... posted by: Courtney on 1/15/2006 at 10:44:06 PM
I recently purchased an older road/track frame off of ebay and am trying to figure out the make, model, and year of the frame. It is a lugged, steel frame with track drop-outs (which may have been braised in later). I am unsure of the original paint color. The serial number is located on the bottom bracket: SL505871. Standard 700c wheels, plain triangular lug style, and brake holes on the fork and back of bike. That's about it... any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
-Courtney
by: 71.142.238.162


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Identifying Old Track/Road Frame... posted by Gralyn on 1/17/2006 at 12:04:00 AM
If it has holes in the forks for brake calipers - then it's most likely an old road bike - which someone swapped out the dropouts
by: 64.12.116.13

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Identifying Old Track/Road Frame... posted by David on 1/17/2006 at 3:56:36 AM
A track frame would have pretty steep frame angles and a fork without much trail. Look at the photos of track bikes in catalogs.
by: 66.30.200.82

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Identifying Old Track/Road Frame... posted by marc on 1/18/2006 at 1:13:23 AM
well I think it depends on how old the bike is. If it's original paint and it's drilled for brakes it could be an older path racer frame. That is a bike made for roads and paths usually set up with a flip flop hub so it could be ridden either fixed or as a single speed. These frames have track dropouts. have a pic?
by: 68.20.180.155






MISC:   CONCORD BIKE FRAME... posted by: Fred A on 1/15/2006 at 7:48:55 PM
Hi All...

I was given a 25'' frame yellow Concord (no"e") frame and fork. Headbadge is plastic and runs vertically with bicycle wheels on either side of it. Frame says ARAYA Steel Tubing and Made In Japan. Forks are chrome tipped. No rear derailleur hanger. Model is a FREEDOM EXPRESS ( I think)and in need of a paint job. My question is: Is this frame worth the effort involved? It would just be another winter project...something to do...but if it's not worth the time and paint, I'll just let it sit with the others for a while.

Thanks for any and all opinions.
Fred A
by: 69.123.6.178


   RE:MISC:   CONCORD BIKE FRAME... posted by David on 1/17/2006 at 3:53:20 AM
Bike boom so-so quality - I'd find a better frame to lavish my labor on.
by: 66.30.200.82

   RE:MISC: CONCORD BIKE FRAME... posted by joe on 7/6/2006 at 2:11:46 AM
i purchased new in 1972 or 1973 a concord deluxe 27" bicycle with alpine gearing as opposed to racing gearing, still own the bike, wondering if anyone has info such as value, rariety, collectors interest etc. any help would be welcomed. thanks joe
by: 70.32.49.56

   RE:RE:MISC: CONCORD BIKE FRAME... posted by Greg Kelly on 5/17/2008 at 1:23:04 PM
I had the same bike from 1970 and paid close to $200 then. Even though technology has advanced I wish I had the bike today. I was a cross country runner and used the bike for transportation to work, school and tooling around the city. I don't think the bike has much value on the market but would cost about $1000 to assemble a coomparable bike today. I suspect that it is still a good ride and worth keeping.
by: 12.96.210.73






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheels? posted by: JIM on 1/15/2006 at 4:14:42 PM
Looking for informed opinions on a problem.One of my daily rides is a mid 70's Schwinn Letour(Japan).The rims are bent beyond repair after a couple thousand miles this summer.What is the best alternative-new 27" wheels,new 700c wheels,use the old hubs(really smooth)with new rims,or something else? The bike is currently set up with a Sora crank and a seven cog freewheel.I really love the ride from this lugged chromoly frame and would like to continue to enjoy it this year,but the wheels are beyond help.Any suggestions are appreciated.------JSW
by: 70.111.212.202


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheels? posted by Ken on 1/19/2006 at 6:59:22 PM
IMO the best introduction to wheelsmithing is to replace a bent rim with a new one by unlacing one spoke at a time and transferring it to the new rim. If you can find rims that have the same crosssection it will be simple and much cheaper than good new handbuilts. Read
http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
and go on from there. Somewhere there's a link to a picture of two rims taped together and a description of the process, but I don't seem to have it bookmarked. There is tremendous satisfaction in assembling, truing and tensioning one's own wheel.
by: 209.7.184.147






WANTED:   Rear brake cable adjuster for Raleigh posted by: Dick on 1/14/2006 at 11:44:48 PM
Does anyone know of a source for the tiny little rear brake cable adjuster (w/locking nut) that fits through the hole in the bridge between the seat stays for center-pull brakes on Raleigh Grand Prix, Super Course, Gran Sport, etc. ? Ive got 4 bare frames that all need them.
Thanks,
Dick
by: 69.232.41.206


   RE:WANTED: Rear brake cable adjuster for Raleigh posted by David on 1/15/2006 at 2:13:14 PM
If you have a drill press, you might be able to make one by boring through (!!) an appropriate allen-head bolt. Or ask a machine shop to do it - could be easier than searching for originals!
by: 66.30.200.82

   RE:WANTED:   Rear brake cable adjuster for Raleigh posted by Jim on 1/15/2006 at 5:07:49 PM
Try Loosescrews.com-they would have them if anyone.
by: 70.111.212.202

   RE:WANTED: Rear brake cable adjuster for Raleigh posted by Don Gillies on 1/16/2006 at 7:35:32 AM
simplex prestige downtube shifter cable-adjusters are the correct size (4 mm?) to fit there. The shifters cost almost nothing on EBay because they eventually snap - the delrin was not a great material for shifters. The zinc barrel adjusters from these shifters make a suitable replacement.

If you find a REAL source for the brass ones, i'd like to know, as the simplex ones are zinc i think.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

by: 66.93.33.137






WANTED:   6-bolt chainrings posted by: John E on 1/14/2006 at 8:14:21 PM
If anyone wants to sell chainrings (aluminum preferred, steel OK) suitable for either the 3-bolt spider of a cottered crank or the typical 3-piece 3-to-6 bolt adaptor, please contact me. I have a Stronglight 58T (!) aluminum 6-bolter I would happily trade/sell cheap/whatever.
by: 71.136.92.140