| My neighbor recently gave me an almost new mixte frame bike that has "American Arrow" on the seat tube, and "Princess" on the down tube. He bought it for his daughter in the "mid 70's" from a LBS (now out of business). A small sticker (that got lost when I washed the bike) on the headtube stated it was "Made in Belgium". Here are some other details: stylized "H" decal on headset, fancy-cut lugs; Hebie kickstand; Simplex (plastic) derailler, Mafac "Racer" brakes, Normandy hubs, unmarked steel rims; Pivo bar stem, unmarked alloy drop bars; unmarked cottered cranks. Serial number on BB is 258126. It doesn't appear to be anything spectacular, but I'm curious about it's pedigree. I Googled on "American Arrow bike" and variations that produced nothing, nor the vintage lightweight archives here, nor ClassicRondevous. Anyone have any ideas about it? Thanks!|
| It sounds like a (presumably lower-cost) Belgian clone of the Peugeot UO-18. The "American ..." name is consistent with the 1960s and early 1970s marketing mindset, when Kawamura branded its bikes "American Eagle" instead of "Nishiki," because Americans presumably regarded Japanese bikes (and cars) as cheap and flimsy.|
| Thanks, John. I also have a Peugeot UO (or UE?)-18, and thought it looked similar. Do you know what Belgian mgf may have produced it? On an aside, what is the difference between a UO and UE-18? Mine is # 1005062B, "Record Du Monde", upright handlebars, fancy lugs with squarish cutouts, Vitus tubing, Mafac, Simplex, etc. |
| Re: my last, does not have Vitus tubing, instead it says "TUBE SPECIAL ALLEGE PEUGEOT". Shoulda checked the bike first rather than the inventory description. My bad.|
| The UE-8 (diamond frame) and UE-18 (mixte, pronounced "meeext") were the European versions, with lights and full mudguards. The familiar UO-8/18 were the U.S. export versions, essentially the same thing, but stripped down to the bare essentials of bicycle, pump, and small toolkit (no lights or fenders).|
| I have a question - maybe someone can help. I have some bikes with these plastic decals - like a clear plastic - with printing on it - and it is wrapped around the frame tubing, or stuck to the the frame tubing somewhere. Then there are older bikes with these stick-on foil decals (like a Jeunet, or Gitane). Now I have these others - especially like my 80's Torpado Beta......but what is it? It's like lettering.....and some of it's missing......but it's not like plastic stick-on decals or anything. It wouldn't be painted on - like a stencil or anything - otherwise, how would some of the letters have come off entirely? I would like to have it re-painted - and put back as close to original as possible - but I wouldn't want to have long plastic decals printed and stuck on - I would like to be more original. I believe the lettering is on the seat tube, down tube, and an emblem (same type) on the head tube.|
| I'm thinking maybe you're talking about a water transfer type decal.You know the type also used on plastic model cars and such.These decals are very fragile and are usually under a clear coat finish.|
I don't know if or where you could have them made.
| Ive read about people reproducing waterslide decals on a color copier using clear decal paper ,you could also run by a print shop or truck lettering place and see what they have to say about it , your main problem is going to be getting complete artwork for them to reproduce|
| Contact Michael Swantak at velographicdecals.com. Hes working on a set of decals for my Gitane Tour de France right now. He does beautiful work and his prices are reasonable. |
| I picked up a Rudge Ulster Sports this past weekend.10 speeds,Cyclo-Benelux front derailleur, Shimano EagleII rear der.,polychromatic green, made by Raleigh,GB sprite T91 brakes, wrap around thin seatstay, probably 2030(says " High tensile steel" It's in great shape. How do I adjust the front derailleur? Did a google on the adjustment and can't find anything specific on this derailleur adjustment. Any comments on what is known about this bike and/or adjustment would be welcomed. Thanks!|
| Without ever owning one, there must be 2 adjusting bolts/screws. Put the bike in high gear and test each set screw to see which one moves the derailleur. This will set the travel on that end of the range...the other screw limits the travel in low gear to prevent the chain from dropping into the spokes.|
| There ARE two small adjustment screws on the REAR derailleur, but not on the front one. BTW, the bike also has Dunlop 32x1 1/4 steel rims made in England.|
| Sorry...missed the front part. They usually have them too.|
| Is this a push-rod style front derailleur, like a 1970s Simplex or a Campag. Gran Sport or Valentino? If so, there is only one range adjustment screw, but the entire cage can be moved inward or outward along the pushrod. |
If the single range screw affects outward travel, i.e., it is the high gear stop, then put the bike in first gear (large rear cog, small front chainring) with the left shift lever all the way forward (cable slack), and adjust the position of the cage on the pushrod such that the cage just clears the inner edge of the chain. Now change up into the highest gear and adjust the limit screw so that the cage just clears the outer edge of the chain. I hope this helps.
| Thanks for the info. It IS a push rod type. I am much more experienced with S-A internal hubs on roadsters. Stupid question, but what is the "cage". Is it the little part that pushes the chain onto the larger chainring? Thanks.|
| I've just bought a bike to cannibalise for parts, one of which is a Cyclo Benelux front mech. I'll have a poke about and see what I find.|
(The bike's a Raleigh Blue Streak, somewhat derelict).
| What are your plans for the Blue Streak's frame, Derek? Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.|
| Hi, this is a message i posted on the English Roadsters forum but hear that it might be better here. I am interested in any info with regard to the Higgins Hurricane Ultralite amde in Norwood South London. I bought this frame for about £50 a few years back as an old bike to knock around on liked it but didnt know what it was. A bike shop tried to buy it off me and began to realise that it was an interesting frame albeit in pretty poor state with split tube and rust. After a few years i sent it off to get it restored and just got it back today - it looks stunning in British Racing green with gold decals (amazing job by Argos bikes in Bristol), next step is where i go from here? Would love to hear any views from the forum and advice as to how old it is and where i should go from here or whether i mix old and new and use it as a training bike?|
| They don't seem to know about Higgins at|
but I bet the folks at classic rendezvous would want to see it. Got pictures? Please let us know if you are able to post one to the picture database on this site.
| Sure i will get a photo uploaded in a couple of days...girlfriend has "borrowed my digital camera!" will retrieve!|
| My wife just picked up this bike for me for $35. It has|
700x25c tires,Exage Action(Shimano Biopace)drive train and brake components,aero brake levers,Presta valves and quick
release hubs. The name Mallard apears on the front hub. I'd
like to know the age,quality level(I'm assuming entry level)and inflation pressure for the tires as I'm new to the metric sizing. Thanks!
| Realized I forgot to include the serial num.. It isY90117488. The 0 could actually be a C. I need to clean some paint out of the numbers.|
| Have a look on the hubs. You will most likely see a two didgit number(example: 84) These two number are the easiest way to estimate age of that particular bicycle. If the bike looks as if it has not been altered, then 84 would indicate that the bike is a 1984 model or very close to it.|
| Thanks! Its a 1989 model.|
| Please either verify or correct the following, which is my current limited understanding of Peugeot serial numbers:|
1) leading numeral = last digit of year;
2) six numerals => 1960s;
3) seven numerals => 1970s, at least through 1980;
4) eight digits => Canadian, 1980s (????)
| I can't help you there as I'm learning myself. I just found the two digit number Randy spoke of on the hubs.|
| It does appear that the leading numeral is the last digit of the year. The numeral stamped in the hubs verifys that |
it is a 1989 model. By point number four are you saying
that those bikes having eight numerals in the serial number
are Canadian made? On the rear chainstay of my bike(a 89
model) a decal says made in France so this would appear not to be the case.
| Further research has indicated that in the late '80s|
Peugeot ceased shipping to the US and sold the rights to
the use of the brand name in North America to ProCycle of
Canada,also known as CCM.