| Thanks to the heat, I've been spending some time in the basement. I find that most of my old rear wheels are dished wrong. It seems that the hub has moved away from the drive side; 1/8 to 1/2 inch in one case. Is this something that's likely to happen over the years with no maintenance?|
| No, they are supposed to be dished that way. (That is, unless you are using them for single-speed fixed-gear applications). The spokes on the free-hub/cassette/sprocket side are more vertical......the spokes on the other side are more at an angle. This is to allow room for the gear cluster - yet center the rim between the chain stays and seat stays. When you use one of these old rear wheels for single speed applications - you have to re-dish the wheel - so that the rim is more centered between where the spokes connect to the hub.|
No, they won't move on their own over time.....they will stay put - except for some slight warpage, or if they get crashed......
| Simple test: |
1) mount the wheel in a frame with approximately the appropriate rear dropout spacing;
2) observe the lateral position of the rim, with respect to the brake mounting bolt;
3) remove the wheel and remount it backward, again observing the position of the rim.
If the rim position does not change when the hub orientation is reversed, the wheel is properly dished.
| I understand about dished wheels. What I'm getting at is that the dish is wrong; the rim is not equally distant from the locknuts. Tightening the spokes on the drive side brings it back to where it should be.|
| I have the same problem with a couple of Araya racing rims. These are the eyelet type and also the narrow gauge hp rim.|
How do these wheels get out of center? Or, is it that they were not dished correctly while built? I thought they were OK, but after some hard rides, I just happened to notice the rear rim tracked just off slightly to the right, but it was squared up (not canted) OK. Breaking spokes is common practice for me, so I would not be surprised if the spokes "creep" under pressure. I think these lightweight wheels have some drawbacks for long distance rides under heavy loading. They sure roll real sweet when all trued up, I must admit it's worth fussing a bit now and again.
| I'm just skeptical that a wheel's dish would change over time - yet the rim remain true.|
| I would not have expected a wheel to lose its dish over time, but consider that stainless steel can stretch and that the drive side spokes are under much higher static tension than the left side spokes.|
| Hi, I just bought an AMF Roadmaster Skyrider Deluxe...unsure what year but am guessing late 50s-early 60s... and realized that it is, according to the seller, a 24 inch frame. I don't understand the sizing for these bikes. I am 5' 3" ...will I have any problems riding it. I have yet to receive the bike to find out for myself.|
Thanks for your time! melissa
| correction...don't think seller means frame size rather the tire size...so I'm sure it is a juvenile bike...|
| Frame size is supposed to be the distance, measured along the seat tube, from the center of the crank spindle to either the top of the top tube ("center-to-top," commonly used in the US) or to the center of the top tube ("center-to-center," commonly used in Europe). Under either of these definitions, a 24" frame would way too tall for a 5'3" rider. A bike with 24" diameter wheels, however, might fit you fairly well, depending on its frame size.|
| Reynolds 531 tubing size 22inch frame, great graphics and finish but with some patina,Britannia plastic fenders, B16 Brooks saddle, original steel drop bars and stem with original off white tape, 27 inch Dunlop steel wheels, new tires and tubes, rare Cyclo Benelux derailer, 3 cog cluster couples to Sturmey Archer steel hub model FM close ratio 4 speed, single Williams chainwheel up forward. Here is a '50's club bike ready for your riding pleasure. $350 pick-up south of Boston. I'll deliver for $50 within 150 roundtrip miles of Boston Packing and shipping extra (around $100) cash or postal MO and shipping to lower 48 only! Thanks for looking! |
| Back in 1975-78 my Mother bought me a 5 speed road bike.|
The size was small for a "10 speed" look. I would say it had 550cm tires it was red with black bar tape.
I believe it was an Italian bike. I am trying to find out who made it because I cant remember and the only picture I have of it doesn't show the name.
| Post your picture. No one can help you with that "description."|
| It sounds like a juvenile road bike. Peugeot made a 5-speed, and Nishiki made a 10-speed, both with 24" wheels. Since yours was Italian, I am thinking one of the larger full-line manufacturers, such as Bianchi or Atala.|
| I recently found one of those 24" Peugeots at a tag sale.|
| The Italian question may easily be answered by a quick measure of the bottom-bracket axial length. If it is 70mm (edge to edge), it is likely Italian. |
| I believe the name started with an "F". Maybe a Fiorelli?|
It was purchased from a high end bike shop.
| i ve been looking online for days with no luck . i aquired what i was told was a bsa (no head badge).its top tube has a huge forward downward rake , rear stays are very close to vertical.fixed gear and very light . i was told by the old owner it was circa 1900.i just need help confirming what it is . or where i may find pix of real vintage track bikes . i m sorry i have no picture yet . thanks marty |
| Yes,I've seen that frame---early1900--1910 era.Bsa not only sold bikes they started out as a components maker so they supplied a lot of lugs for other builders to use---sam|