| Looking for extra wide bottom bracket spindle. 7 series 57mm is too narow I need a 59mm. This needs to be standard square taper. Contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org Ed|
| Have you tried Harris? (www.harriscyclery.com)|
| Does Raleigh build any bikes in England these days, if so what types?|
| I don't think Raleigh makes any frames in the UK today. As far as I know, the only framebuilding occurring in most of northern Europe is among small custom builders, with large-scale production having moved mostly to Asia, and some remaining in Italy (e.g. Bianchi's and Capo's higher-end framesets).|
| The Raleigh name has been bought and sold, so it is no longer the same company who made all those wonderful bikes for so many years.|
I think their present incarnation may be located in Washington State now--but probably manufacture in Asia like everyone else.
| Looking for a chrome, 700C fork for my '85 Raleigh Super Course (original had a stem stuck in it that refused to come out via the cutting method). |
Fork must be set up for allen bolt brake mounting. Lugged or one-piece crown ok.
It's for a 21" frame, so if possible, a long threaded steerer would be preferable - would save me having to cut the threads down.
| Hi Kurt,|
I just acquired a Super Course and the seat post is stuck in the frame and it is too low for me. It is all the way in. It sounds like you may have some tips for me in getting it out. I have applied penetrating oil, tapped on it with a hammer, rigged a haudraulic jack to push it out and applied enough pressure that I was worried about breaking the smaller tubes I was bracing against. I've tried a pipe wrench to twist the seat post, but it doesn't budge. The tubing seems to be Reynolds 531. I'm going to try the heat gun next. Do you have any tips?
| Hmm, Campy post. Well, first things first, if it hasn't budged by now, it sounds as if your remaining removal techniques will be on the destructive side, which will be to cut the top off of the post, then, with a Sawzall, cut slits down the post (being careful not to cut through the frame), then extract the post in shards and sections.|
Before you do this though, try opening up the BB, flip the bike over, then dump ice down the post. Once the ice has cooled off the tube a bit, stick a CO-2 tire-inflating cartridge down the tube and let it get real cold. Use your hydraulic jack to put some more pressure on the post, and hope that it pops out.
| ---A copy of my post from Bikeforums.net (with some editing) on the progress of my '61 Paramount:|
The Paramount's IRC tires arrived this afternoon, the last parts I needed to get her back on the road.
The first test run was fantastic. The Titan bars are a tad narrower then I'm accustomed, resulting in slightly squirlly handling, but I'm becoming used to it quite quick.
The brakes performed better then I expected from Weinmanns, but the Scott-M pads I have on it make a hell of a lot of squealing, and frankly, stop the bike TOO well. Some less agressive pads are in order.
As for the drivetrain, the rod-operated Campagnolo Gran Sport front derailer operates better then any other front mech I've ever used. Shifting is as close as you'll get to instantaneous. Of course, I'm sure the 51/54t crankset combo has something to do with it.
Rear derailer is very responsive, and shifts nearly as quick as a modern Shimano derailer running friction mode, however, shifting feedback was spongy on the first ride. Cleaning the grease out of the shifter improved the response, but not as much as I'd hoped.
Perhaps I shouldn't be comparing it to the levers in my '85 Triomphe gruppo - if I'm not mistaken, the GS/NR design uses a pressure plate, and the Triomphe a plastic bushing.
Attached are three photos for your enjoyment:
| Oh - P.S.:|
Here's a photo of when I got her.
| I wonder how much of the sponginess in the rear shift lever feel is attributable to play in the aged Campag. Gran Sport derailleur itself. I have had very good experience with 1960 to 1980 Campag. downtube levers with newer Campag. derailleurs and with various SunTours. When I get Capo #2 back together, I'll take special note of how the OEM Gran Sport rear derailleur feels.|
| Curious that you mention the parallelogram spring, for I have been considering swapping the original spring for one I salvaged from a spare, wrecked Campag Nuovo GS derailer.|
Might try this, although the original spring still seems mighty strong...
| Anyone know the approximate value of a 1967 Schwinn Racer? All original,fair condition. Single speed, coaster brake.Black paint with black grips.Rides great. Thank You in advance, Mark.|
| In my area, N.CA, probably at least 100, 200 on a good day. If 3-speed, add 50-100. |
| Thanx, Jack.|