| Just picked up a Technium 480 ready to ride (grease those bearings!) at the local thrift store. 22.5 " frame a bit small for me but it was in nice condition and the price was right. Did a bit of online searching and found mixed reviews. Anybody have any comments on it? thanx. john |
| I've had one of the Techniums for several years - built up as a fixed gear. I really like it - and have been pleased with the frame, the ride, etc. |
| Gralyn:Thanks for the reply. I negected to mention that someone replaced the orginal stem/handlebar with extended stem and straight bar. I do have a Marathon of about the same vintage with orginal equipment and I'm wondering if bar/stem are close to what would have been used on the Technium. |
| Mine is like a mid-80's, so far as I know. Currently, I don't have the original bars and stem on it. But, I do recall - it was just typical standard stem and typical alloy drop bars like you would find on most all mid-level bikes of that period. I currently have randonneur bend bars on mine.|
| Thanks....Was thinking of keeping it in the collection for a while just because of the unusual construction and wanted to return it to original. john|
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| Hello, I have a 1975 frame made of Reynolds 531 4 star tubing and was wondering if this tubing has a standard seatpost size or were there choices of inside diameter. Thank you!|
| ... or buy yourself a micrometer caliper capable of measuring outer and inner diameters, as well as plunge depth -- a worthwhile $20 investment with myriad uses.|
| You cannot distinguish butted tubing by feeling down the seat tube, because the seat tube is butted only at the bottom bracket end. This is why seat post diameter is a pretty good indicator of frame butting -- you are looking into the thin-walled portion of the tube. |
Having no butting at the top of the seat tube accomplishes a few objectives, including providing a uniform surface against which to bear the stress from the seatpost. The main triangle's major stress points are both ends of the downtube, the bottom of the seat tube, and the front of the top tube, and these are all thickened equally in a double-butted frame.
| It varies. If it's butted it can be 27.0 or 27.2. If it's not butted, it can range from 26.4 to 27.0. If you know the make and model, you may find it on Sheldons database.|
| The "four star" label doesn't indicate anything different about the tubing. It's still 531 fork, stays, DB tubes.|
Seat tube should be 27.2 unless there's something quite unusual (like seat tube installed upside down).
| English-diameter tubing (O.D. = 28.6mm = 1-1/8") generally takes a 27.0 or 27.2mm seatpost if butted, 26.4 if straight-walled. (I have one of each from circa 1960.)|
Metric (mostly French)-diameter tubing (O.D. = 28.0mm) generally takes a 26.4 or 26.6mm seatpost if butted.
| I have tried a 27.2 and it doesn't fit. Would I be able to feel if it was butted? The inside tubes are smooth to the touch. I will look for a 26.4 post to try. Thanks John E!|
| If the Reynolds tubing sticker says "Butted tubes" then it's butted or the decal is a fake. Don't try to force any post into your frame. 2 tenths of a millimeter difference will make a post unusable.|
Most good bike shops have a seatpost gauge and will tell you exactly what size it is. Go this route.
| I am trying to identify a frame with Weinmann 605 side pulls and on the underside there is an 80 and a clock arrow pointing to the 2. I am guessing they are 1982's?|
I bought 3 frames with no investigation from a guy whose roomates were complaining about his yard art: a Raleigh Racing 555 tubing from Tiawan that I flipped and an unidentified english frame with brakes and Suntour Power Shifters that turned out to be a Dawes (marked on the rear dropouts). The short wheelbase and all reynolds 531 tubing, forks and stays and the brakes say a 1982-83 Atlantis to me; well worth a $50 powder coating.
Does anyone have a 1982-83 catalog that they could tell me the original color? It looks like a medium blue under the repaint.
Oh, and the third is a Motobecanne Grand Touring with a 27.2 seat post hammered in because as he told me "all the Reynolds have 27.2 seat posts" only this was Vitus tubing and yes the seat tube is stretched at the top and colapsed at the bottom bracket. Two out of three ain't bad!
| I'm picking up a Peugeot UO-8 for a singlespeed build. I think it takes 27" wheels. Does anyone know if it will accomodate 700c? Would I have to change brakes?|
Also, can the kooky stem be swapped easily, i.e. does it have a 1" steerer clamp and handlebar? And will the seatpost take a modern saddle?
Lastly, any issues foreseen in removing the outer chainring and guard?
thanks in advance.
| Hey Tom:Earlier this year I put 700x35's (much wider than 27 1 1/4) on a World Sport that had 27's and it took about 20 minutes to make the switch and about 4 hours hunting through the parts bin and friend's donor bikes to find calipers and a stem that would fit! Your LBS should be able to help you on the stem if you don't access to used parts. I also installed plastic fenders to keep the mud off me...worth the effort and adds very little weight! I can't see any problems with the chain ring except to that you might need to install washers as spacers to take up the space previously used by the chain ring you removed. The only potential problem I see is to make sure hub width fits your dropouts. john|
| Mafac Racers will reach. I made the same conversion.|
You can improve the stem and bar combo with other french components. The seatpost is the worst part of the bike since it has no "stop". It will take any seat but make sure the clamp stays tight or the saddle will slip down onto the post and distort. I'd be tempted to drill a small hole and pop a stainless rivet in it to prevent this. Why not lose the whole crankset and put an inexpensive alloy unit on? Keep the bottom bracket cups and swap the axle out to suit.
| If you're going fixed gear, you might want to retain 27" wheels to give you a tad more pedal clearance when cornering.|