| I failed to mention the Paramount could be a prewar or|
No later than early '50s. This frame looks exactly like
the early/antique frame (red) on the Waterford site. It has
the keyhole lugs. The bike won't be ship until tomorrow but
I'd like to get a little info on it ahead of time.
| Today I purchased an early Paramount track frame restored by Waterford. My questions are what is the seat tube I.D.,|
bottom bracket threads and width plus the front and rear
dropout/fork spacing. Any help is appreciated.
| Take it to a good shop and have them drop a seat tube guage into the tube. If your frame is columbus, it's likely that it's 27.2 or if it's a 531 frame it could be 27.0 or 26.8 but it's not worth the guessing. BB threads would almost definitely be english (thread one in nicely, fixed cup reversed) and the spacing can be easily measured, yes? Nice bike. Get a campag Pista group and you're stylin'|
| I was stripping down an old Trek 330 today......when I removed the cranks - I ran into troubles where someone had previously tried to remove them. The threads were really messed up - and it was very difficult to get my crank removal tool screwed in. I eventually got it. Then I found an interesting item: the tip of a screw driver wedged into the crank - near where it goes on the spindle. I had to remove it with a pair of channel locks. I suppose someone had tried to remove it at one time by driving a screwdriver between the cranks and the bottom bracket.|
Well, the bottom bracket is stuck - that is, the cup won't unscrew. I put some penetrating oil on it - and I'm going to let it soak. Any other tips from removing a stuck cup? It's the kind with the small holes around the perimeter. I have a tool - but it's really stuck. I even tried getting it loose using a nail set and hammer - but it won't give.
| Have you tried Sheldon's improvised and effective BB cup tool? It might work...|
| If it's really stuck and you don't mind destroying the cup try this. Drill a small hole (1/8" or so) on the bottom of the bottom bracket just deep enough to expose the threads of the cup. Through this hole give the cup a few love taps with your trusty nail set and hammer to jolt open the threads then treat it to a liberal taste of penetrating oil. Now use whatever method works best to get that s.o.b. rotating.|
| The soaking with the penetrating oil worked. After soaking - I took the nail set and hammer - and was able to break it loose. |
Now I only have one more issue: The front derailler.....the allen bolt that holds it clamped to the frame - is stuck - and so, I cannot remove it. It's like the nut that the bolt screws into - is a round (not rounded - "round") and so, the whole things turns - rather than the allen bolt backing out.
| Dremel tool! cut that puppy off...|
| Help. I lost all my bikes in a garage fire in November of 2006. I'm arguing with the insurance about the replacement cost of my mint condition Schwinn Le Tour II that I think I bought brand new around 1978. I think I paid something under $200.oo for the bike.|
Any good arguements and/or comparisons of a current bike and cost? A close friend of mine who rides a lot believes that a Trek 520 would be comparable.
| Probably the easiest way to document prices actually paid would be to search eBay closed auctions. I'd search for yours and comparable models as well just to widen the # of hits.|
| Go to www.geocities.com/sldatabook/contents.html|
In the details section you'll find prices these bikes sold for new. This info is from Schwinns catalogues.
| If you search ebay completed listings you will find two completed auctions in the past 30 days for Le Tour bikes. One 1979 Le Tour bike sold for a shipped price of $185 and one 80's vintage Le Tour bike which did not meet the reserve price had three bids over $200 (+ $55 shipping cost). |
There was also a Le Tour frame that sold on ebay for a shipped price of $176. Clearly the lightweight lugged frame has real vintage value since lugged frames are in such demand these days.
Here is a page from Schwinn's 1977 catalog:
Apparently the Le Tour II was sold in 1977 at a list price of $165.95. Unfortunately, the catalog does not provide details of the components. If you stripped the bike, the value of the parts would clearly exceed $200.
hope this helps,
| I acqired an older Schwinn bike I would like to restore. I'm really not into value, just authenticity. I'm currently into several types of "biking", but my first attempt at retro. It's original blue and I know it's fillet brazed. Has a head badge that reads Chicago/New World. I'm trying to find out the year first, then try to restore from there. The bars read WALD and has 26 X 1 3/8" tires. I've think designating the width with a fraction instead of a decimal usually signifies a straight-sided rim, not a hook-edge rim, which might make these rims and tires difficult to replace. Please help...Thanks!|
| "...has 26 X 1 3/8" tires. I've think designating the width with a fraction instead of a decimal usually signifies a straight-sided rim, not a hook-edge rim, which might make these rims and tires difficult to replace."|
Hmmm... I was about to give you very bad/wrong advice and tell you that your wheels are 650A/590mm. However, good ole' Sheldon Brown has saved me:
... assuming that this is a Schwinn "S6" tire.
To make absolutely certain, you might want to post your question on:
Where both Sheldon B and renowned Schwinn expert Bob Hufford will see it.
Hope that helps.
| Forbes is right -- there are a couple of 26 x 1-3/8" sizes, so you might want to look for markings on the tire that say S-5 or S-6 or any markings on the rim that specify that the rims are still Schwinn. The bars sound like they have been swapped out for aftermarket Walds. To find the date of the bike, start here to locate the serial number:|
Note that there was a fire in the Schwinn factory in August of 1948 and records prior to that are lost. You will have to look for other clues to determine if the bike is "Pre-War" if you don't find the serial number on the lists.
The most obvious on the New World would be that the chainguard would clamp to the downtube and chainstay (Pre-War), instead of mounting to a bracket on top of the bottom bracket shell and the rear dropout (Post-War).
and that the kickstand would clamp on separately (Pre-War) vs. be welded on to the frame (Post-War):
These bikes typically bring little (around $100), though I'm a big fan of them and have one out in the shed that is a long term project. Mine is a pre-War version. Here is what I think is the 2nd year catalog for these:
Best of Luck,