| I have a 1981 Miyata 10 speed but have know idea how to find out what model it is or what its worth. Anyone familiar with them? All i have is the serial number and its a 21" frame with suntour gears, dia-compe brakes and the badge says MIYATA hand built Japan.|
| Read the Mercier post 2 below...same deal. Miyate made great bikes and modest ones as well.|
| The serial number will only provide the year, not the model. However, if you post a pic along with the serial number, I should be able to identify it. The alternative is to list the make and models of the major components. I may also be able to provide the original price or at least a ballpark figure. |
| I recently acquired a bike identified as a "K. Sommerhalder". I was informed that after winning the Tour de Suisse, Herr Sommerhalder made these bikes. However, I have researched the Tour de Suisse, and find no "K. Sommerhalder" winner. (Apparently, there have been numerous Sommerhalder contestants, so there is hope).|
Anyway, the bike is rather interesting. It is cherry red, with "K. Sommerhalder" decals in white. Columbus tubing and fork, with the Columbus dove embedded in the seat stay and fork crown. There is an interesting mix of components. The shifters, derailleurs and crankset are Shimano 600 (arabesque), but the headseat and seatpost are Gipiemme. Even more interesting - the hubs are Dura-Ace, with lubrication holes and covers. The rims are Nisi tubulars. The dropouts are Campy - drilled. The wheelbase (96cm) is pretty short for this 56cm bike, which makes it feel very lively and responsive. All told, including Gipiemme pedals, toe clips, and Silca pump, the bike weighs in below 21 lbs.
Obviously, I am interested in any information that anyone can provide on this one. I can provide pictures if desired.
Thanks in advance.
| I have 1971 Special Pro Mercier w/ 22" frame & 27" wheels. Was very light wieght back in the day.|
Any ideas what this would go for on open market. I am orginal owner.
| Complete details and usually pics are also needed to make a reasonable guess at value for most bikes.|
| I have restored a Motobicane Mirage. The French light weight bicycles are super commuter bicycles because they have wide tire clearances and can handle 700 x 35 at least in tires. I would think that it would be worth at minimum 100.00 if it is a better quality frame. Of course it would need a 700 x 19 rims for the wide tires. Why sell, just add some newer parts! Enjoy! Ed |
| I concur with Ed regarding the suitability of these frame for commuting (my commuter is a 1970 Peugeot UO-8 with aluminum rims, aluminum crankset, and SunTour barcons), but would make the same statement about English, Austrian, Japanese, etc. bikes of the same era. These other nationalities of bikes have the advantage of using mostly standard/ISO parts, whereas French bikes were "hard" metric except for an occasional English pedal or freewheel thread for U.S. export.|
| Yes, I was lucky finding parts so far My frame is threaded Swiss on the bottom bracket. The fixed cup is Left hand thread. I found the seatpost to be 25.4. I think the new cassette type back hubs to be a big advantage for the old bicycles. Ed|
| Hi all|
I just picked up an 80's Fuji Royale, all original, right down to the gum hoods that look they were in Terminator 3 after Skynet melted everything. Any idea how to remove this gooey mess? It sticks to everything it comes in contact with, including my hands. I've even tried drowning them in WD-40 but to no avail.
Anyone out there have a solution?
Thanks in advance!
| The right solvent would probably clean it right off.....I just don't know what solvent will do the job. I have at least 2 or 3 sets of levers that had melted down gum hoods. I got the bulk of the hoods off - the they have the sticky, gooey remnants - which I would like to completely remove - before putting new hoods on. I would have put these original brake levers back on the bikes they came off of - but because of the gum hood mess - I just put a different lever set on each one. They have just been sitting in a box - waiting until I get around to finding what will remove the gum mess. |
I also have a bar and lever set - that came off a Motobecane - where the bars have a gum coating rather than bar tape. The gum, rubber molded on wrap integrates the brake hoods also. It looks good - but it is very sticky. So, I removed the bars and put a different bar and levers on it. I could take that set and put bar tape on top of the original gum stuff.....but I wish there was something that could be done so it wouldn't be so sticky and gooey.
| Have you tried paint thinner or (careful!) lacquer thinner? |
| Thanks for all the input. I'll give it all a try!!!!!|
| How can I remove a freewheel from a hub that has had the spokes cut and rim removed? The hub is a Campy c-record, so I don't want to damage it. The freewheel is a 7-speed and I have the right removal tool but I can't get enough leverage without the rim and spokes attached. I have managed to remove all the cogs with chain whips and I am left with the freewheel body attached to the hub. I am not able to re-spoke the freewheel side flange because of the freewheel body. Any ideas????|
| Look at|
Jobst Brandt (author of "The Bicycle Wheel") knows what he's talking about.