| Hey I am looking for some help in finding out what I have. It is a water bottle, that is shaped almost like a diamond. It is clear and has a white pop off cap. It slides and locks into its cage. It has a v like design down the side. It appears to be a rare bottle, I haven't came across one in my 20 years with bikes. Any help would be great. Thanks Tim|
|I just picked up a matching set of 1948 Rudge-Whitworth English 3 speeds. They are in need of cleaning, new cables, tires and so on. They seem intact but will require hours of work to get them looking really good. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas where to start. Do I need special tools for these English bikes? Any ideas on how rare these models are? What they might be worth? I don|
| Your photo link wants a login. If they are Sports models (26 x 1 3/8 tires) they are probably not worth a whole lot, even if they are in good condition. But... they should be great riders that will turn some heads!|
| I don't see special tools, a bench vise would be good. |
I expect there's information on here, but these were badge engineered Raleigh, produced for working men and women as transport to a place of work. Cost was about 5 weeks total wages. Mass produced, but were always a little better than most other makes. Beware the bottom bracket and head bearings are 26 TPI, not the standard 24. Bottom bracket is L H thread on the right side, and is just screwed in tight. There used to be a clamp on tool to remove these, hope you don't need to, probably won't find a replacement.
Used to have a squeezing tool for crank cotter pin removal, and replaced with new. If you support the crank with the pedal to the front and unscrew the nut you can
tap the the cotter pin out. Use 2 small hammers, rest one on the cotter pin and sharply hit the first hammer with the other. If you are cleaning the rear hub, the left hand end plate is left hand thread, removable in the vise, the right hand is 2 start right hand thread, so mark the position before you remove it which can be done with a suitable cold chisel. These end plates are case hardened.
| I have an all chrome fixed gear bike from the days of the 6 day racers held in Chicago. The original rider left it to me after he passed. Wondering if anyone has info on such a bike. The only markings are BSA on the cranks. Email me if you might be able to help and I will send a pic|
| What's the riders name? There's a great book called Six Days of Madness with lots of pictures of the riders on the US/Canada circuit. Maybe there's a shot of your bike?|
Close up pictures of your bike may help identify it. BSA cranks were widely used on non-BSA bikes but there were a half dozen marques that were preferred in those days.
| I posted about this bike somewheres but can't find it. Anyway, I have a teal green Lotus Leger with Biopace gears and aluminum frame. Can't find a thing about it. Have seen a few posts on the earlier Lotus bikes, but no mention of this model. Any info would be appreciated.|
Thanks in advance,
| Check the archives. It seems I remember several years back - that there was a web site someone had started - trying to gather information on Lotus bikes. I don't have any Lotus bikes left. I had a Lotus Excel touring bike with Dura-Ace, a Lotus 3000 R, and an old Lotus Grand Prix.|
| I picked up a Schwinn at a yard sale. It has the round Chicago headbadge, and the tattered remains of a "Schwinn" decal along the down tube. There is evidence that a model name may have been on the top tube at one time, though even that is inconclusive. It appears to be fillet brazed, though I have not removed the paint to confirm. It has Dia-Compe brake levers and "Schwinn Approved Type LS2.4" caliper brakes. Schwinn Approved "GT 500" rear and "GT 290" derailleurs are attached to stem-mounted Schwinn shifters. The shifters are stamped "258" and the rear derailleur also has "Brevette S.G.D.G." stamped on the inside. The tires are marked "Schwinn Puff High Pressure Road Racer" on one side and "Schwinn Tubular Rims" on the other (though they are clinchers). The serial number on the head tube is HP533245.|
The serial number says the frame was manufactured August of '78 and this article (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/schwinn-braze.html) leads me to believe it is a Superior (renamed Sport Tourer) *except* for the stem-mounted shifters, brazed-on kick and chrome spoke protector--all three of which were dropped in '76 according to the article.
Any help would be appreciated.
| It seems like your bike has conflicted features! Varsity or Continental normally have oval badge and steel ("tubular") rims (not tires!), welded-on heavy kickstand. Does yours have a one-piece steel Ashtabula crank? Is the fork normally built up from tubing or are the legs flat solid steel? And check the dropouts; the fillet-brazed ones (all?) have forged dropouts cleanly joined to the stays. The electro-forged models have squashed stays welded to a stamped sheet steel dropout. Post a picture.|
| Scott, |
Check for a ring of Electro-Forge slag just behind the bottom bracket shell on the chainstays. Does the toptube / seattube juncture look brazed or flared/flash-welded? Also, are the tops of the seatstays round or pointed?
The components you list sound like a Varsity, but the round headbadge is confusing.
| As so often happens, I spent over a week trying to find information on this bike, and less than 4 hours after posting this question I found a pic on the 'net of a 1970 Continental and it looks identical (even to the colour) so I had decided that's what it was. The only thing that's changed from your collective replies is that it may be a Varsity.|
First, the most controversial part: the round headbadge. This was my mistake. I have no idea why, but when reading "round headbadge" I 'understood' it to mean "rounded" (and had not seen one of the *round* ones at that point. The headbadge is, in fact, oval.
As for the other points, in order: I assume from the size of the bracket/hanger that the crank is an Astabula. I cannot tell if the forks are hollow, but they *are* flat. The stay to dropout interface is nice and smooth, but the dropouts are stamped and the stays are squashed. There is the "slag" behind the bracket shell on the stays (which I hadn't noticed before or id have *known* it was welded) and the toptube/seattube juncture is "half-lugged" (butted?) but definitely not brazed. And the tops of the seatstays are rounded.
Thanks for your help, though now I feel a little stupid for not noticing the obvious weld-points when I thought I'd studied the frame carefully... :-)
| Must be Varsity then. Short of running it over with a truck, they are virtually indestructible. Perfect beater bike.|
| If it has alloy bars and centerpull brakes, it's a continental. (I don't recognize the numbers on the calipers.) |