| I have a campy rear wheel with a suntour 5 speed freewheel,would someone tell me what type threads are on the hub.thank you |
In my experience the ISO and Italian are indistinguishable: 1.375" vs 35mm.
| Hi,all just required a 21" raleigh record ace 12 speed,looks unused been told like it could be late 60s any info would be great. |
| Hi All,|
I'm still working on the Record from the prior posting. I found it is a 1968 from the Headbadge (Heron, not a Peacock), paint and components. I did find that the rear hub is actually a Flip=Flop hub with a freewheel on one side and a place for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Anyone know if this was standard equipment or an upgrade. Both rims are Sturmey Archer so it looks like it came with the bike. Thanks
| As of the early 1970s, the Raleigh Record was a 10-speed, and I assume that was the case in the late 1960s, as well.|
| Hey John...long time no see.|
Bryant, the flip flop hub was spec on some of these bikes. I believe it was a Brampton. There should be some discussion in the archives. I recall that it was a fairly pedestrian steel hub. Interesting as a conversation piece but original.
| I do not collect bicycles, and know nothing much about them , except how to ride. I have acquired an old?? bike and can't find info about it. I basically just want to put new tires on it for riding purposes. The info on the bike is this: National Sports Wheel Corp. , ultralight, Sapporo , 12 speed. I can make out the numbers on the tires: 26 X 1 3/8 Hwa HFR FONG. After buying some tires (Bell) 26 X 1 3/8 and inner tubes 26 X 1.75 ( the store employee said they should work), I read on the internet that they probably will not-- that the inner tubes should also be the same as the tire. Of course the store does not have that size in stock. I just need to know what size ( and kind ) of tire and inner tube WILL work, I may be riding on dirt roads. I'm also wondering why, with so much bike info out there, that I can not find any on this bike. What else ( other name) would it be listed under?|
| I think the 26 x 1.75 innertubes WILL work with 26 x 1-3/8 tires. I would prefer 26 x 1.375 or 26 x 1.5 tubes, if available, but do not lose any sleep over it.|
| so will 700C for that matter - the 26x 1 3/8 falls about midway between the two sizes. |
| Finally, after several years, I'm getting around to re-building my Schwinn Sports Tourer. I've already run into a problem: I went to remove the crank arms - but my crank removal tool is way too small! I have never run into this situation before. The threaded area where the removal tool would go, is a much larger diameter. Does anyone know if the correct tool is available anywhere?|
| Hi Gralyn,|
If your Sports Tourer has a TA crankset, you will likely need to use as a crank removal tool such as the VAR tool sold by Harris Cyclery (see http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/bottombracket.html#crank , shown as "VAR #393"). I have one of these and the larger side (23 mm thread diameter) fits the TA crank on my 1975 Sports Tourer.
I also have a few older Super Sports (most in fairly rough condition). As much as I like the Sports Tourer, I find that the Super Sports (with their one-piece crank and "all steel drivetrain" make very durable commuter bikes. So you might think about keeping your SS if you have the space and inclination.
Good luck with the crank removal.
| I do have the TA crank set. I looked over everything on the bike - and except for the tires, it's all original. The pedals, clips, straps, saddle, even the bar tape. I would keep the original bar tape - but it's torn in several places on one side. But, it's the black plastic type - and I think you can still find it. (I have some white, and some green - but no black.) My original plans were for black cloth bar tape, and bar-end shifters to replace the big chrome gear shifters at the stem. I was also going to leave off the huge pie pan spoke protector. But now, I'm more leaning toward keeping it as original as possible. It's a 1972 model, per the catalogs and specs, etc. .....the Mfg. date per serial number puts it in 1971.|
| Hi Gralyn,|
If you are somewhat near an established bike shop, they might have a TA crank extractor that they would be willing to let you use on site. If not, contact me off the list and I'll lend you mine (if you don't mind a wait).
Bar-end shifters would be nice if you have them, though I've always liked the stock stem shifter (and pie plate spoke protector, especially if the chrome is still nice).
I will tell you that on my '72 ST that I formerly owned, I replaced the stock Campagnolo Gran Turismo rear derailleur with a Shimano Crane (which, marked as "LeTour" replaced the Gran Turismo on later Sports Tourers). This vastly improved the shifting (though it required some filing of the dropout to accomodate a different derailleur).
Also, if you use the Gran Turismo derailleur, carefully check and make sure that you have adequate spring tension around the pivot bolt (the one that attaches to the dropout). There is a small "tooth" on a stampled metal plate that engages a slot of the pivot bolt (the bolt actually is stationary while the plate and the derailleur pivot around it). I have seen several examples on STs where this "tooth" has broken off. If is is broken, there is no spring tension on the pivot to oppose the tension of the chain and the derailleur will get pulled forward and up against the left chainstay (a very ugly sight). It is possible to repair this (I filed a slot in the plate and fitted a new wedge or "key" to go in the slot, but the derailleur still shifted poorly). I ultimately replaced it with a Shimano Crane. BTW, when you remove the Gran Turismo derailleur, make sure you hold the pivot bolt staionary and remove the nut on the inside of dropout. I didn't do this and broke the pivot spring (which I had to then replace).
| Hi Gralyn,|
I meant right chainstay, not left chainstay in reference to derailleur....!!
| Yes, I figured out about the derailler removal....I could tell that the bolt inside the chainstay was connected with the spring - so I held it stationary and loosened the bolt on the derailler side. It looks that most of the chrome is in good enough condition - so I'm going to re-install the pie pan, stem shifters, etc. |
| I have a 73 ST and it has Nervar crank, which uses the std 22mm extractor. TA will use 23mm. You might be able to find a Park crank puller that has 22 and 23mm threading (two sided). They turn up on ebay. I think that biketoolsetc.com has pullers that are fairly expensive.|