If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| i have recently found a old bicycle and on the chain gaurd i can read where is says Ram then it is rusted and i cant tell what brand it is i dont have any idea of how old it is but any help would be APPRECIATED THANKS!!!! |
| The only bike I can think of with 'ram' is a Schwinn Stingray Rams' Horn Fastback. What size are the tires? Maybe 20 x 1 3/8 ??? |
| i belive it is a 26in bike i have only seen it once or twice and have not really took the time to un burry it but I think the brand name is somthing starting with Ram____ i could be wrong but thats what i belive |
| Could it be RAMPAR? That was a name Raleigh used for some of its far east imports in the 70s & 80s. |
| I had a 26" Columbia Rambler. It said Rambler on the chaingaurd.I remember the tires it took were Schwinn S-7 midweights. |
| I had a 26" Columbia Rambler. It said Rambler on the chaingaurd.I remember the tires it took were Schwinn S-7 midweights. |
| Subject: Repaint it? Restore old paint? How? Entered on: Jul 17, 1997 12:18 Entered by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles Message: A timeless question: Should you repaint your vintage bike or restore the original paint? How do you know when the original paint is too far gone? How will paint affect your bike's value? Subject: Keep the original paint Entered on: Jul 17, 1997 12:45 Entered by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles Message: If the paint is salvagable, keep it.Original paint and decals are more desirable. Even when the paint is scratched and worn, and the decals are partially missing, your best bet is to "restore" or "clean up" the paint and decals. Would a coin collector clean the patina off of an old coin? Subject: Repaint Entered on: Jul 21, 1997 08:30 Entered by: Russell Message: How does the restoration process affect the value of the bike?If you do a complete repaint and re-chrome alone with repro decals or if you can find original decalsdoes it affect alot or a little? Subject: Repaint < Original Entered on: Jul 24, 1997 12:02 Entered by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles Message: A repaint would have to be excellent in order to make it more valuable than an above-average original.Original decals are better than new repros. Subject: Repaint Entered on: Jul 25, 1997 15:17 Entered by: JimB Message: I would never repaint a bike I wanted to keep as a collectors item.Unless you can have a very professional job done (i.e. $700+ withall decals replaced), any buyer will be able to detect the bike is notoriginal. Of course if you want the bike because you want it to ride,then go ahead, but don't expect to sell it later for a profit. If you one you really like but its condition is marginal, consider selling itand buying the same model in better shape.Jim Subject: Decals Entered on: Jul 27, 1997 17:05 Entered by: Todd H. Message: Where are all of these original and/or repro decals everyone is talking about? I have no idea where to begin to look. I have a 1967 Raleigh English roadster, deep burgundy in color. I need all decals replaced. I am restoring the bike to ride so repros would be fine. Thanks. Subject: SHOULD I PAINT IT? Entered on: Aug 7, 1997 13:21 Entered by: ADAM Message: MY SEARS BIKE'S PAINT IS EITHER A BAKED ON ENAMEL OR BRUSH PAINTED LAQUER. IN SOME PLACES IT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS BRUSHED. THE PAINT IS VERY THIN AND SLOWLY CHIPPING. THERE IS RUST UNDER THE PAINT. IT WAS TERRIBLE WHEN I BOUGHT IT BUT I SCRUBBED IT WIH SOS PADS AND #0000 STEEL WOOL AND COMET IT TOOK ALOT OFF BUT NOT ALL OF IT AND WHEN I SCRUB IT TOO MUCH THE PAINT WEARS DOWN AND MAKES THE SPOT LIGHTER COLORED. THE REAR FENDER IS IN PERFECT SHAPE NEAR THE SEAT POST BUT THE REST IS VERY BAD IT IT CHIPPED AND RUSTED! I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO PAINT IT BUT THEN IT WON'T BE ORIGINAL BUT I MIGHT GET SOME BODY WORK DONE ANYWAY BUT I MIGHT NOT. THE BIKE IS TOTALY ORIGINAL. EVERYTHING. EVEN THE INNER TUBES. AND THEY HAVE NO PATCHES! WHAT SOULD I DO? ALSO IF ANYONE WANTS TO BUY IT FOR $350 I'LL BE GLAD TO SELL IT TO YOU. Subject: SHOULD I PAINT IT? Entered on: Aug 7, 1997 13:21 Entered by: ADAM Message: MY SEARS BIKE'S PAINT IS EITHER A BAKED ON ENAMEL OR BRUSH PAINTED LAQUER. IN SOME PLACES IT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS BRUSHED. THE PAINT IS VERY THIN AND SLOWLY CHIPPING. THERE IS RUST UNDER THE PAINT. IT WAS TERRIBLE WHEN I BOUGHT IT BUT I SCRUBBED IT WIH SOS PADS AND #0000 STEEL WOOL AND COMET IT TOOK ALOT OFF BUT NOT ALL OF IT AND WHEN I SCRUB IT TOO MUCH THE PAINT WEARS DOWN AND MAKES THE SPOT LIGHTER COLORED. THE REAR FENDER IS IN PERFECT SHAPE NEAR THE SEAT POST BUT THE REST IS VERY BAD IT IT CHIPPED AND RUSTED! I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO PAINT IT BUT THEN IT WON'T BE ORIGINAL BUT I MIGHT GET SOME BODY WORK DONE ANYWAY BUT I MIGHT NOT. THE BIKE IS TOTALY ORIGINAL. EVERYTHING. EVEN THE INNER TUBES. AND THEY HAVE NO PATCHES! WHAT SOULD I DO? ALSO IF ANYONE WANTS TO BUY IT FOR $350 I'LL BE GLAD TO SELL IT TO YOU. Subject: RE: Sears bike and bad paint Entered on: Aug 8, 1997 13:38 Entered by: jj Message: Not sure what model your bike is, or what features it has so how can anyone tell if $350 is reasonable? You should put in more info about make, model and features. Regarding your paint, it sounds like the paint is thin. Maybe you should repaint it before selling it? Subject: Caution on sand blasting Entered on: Aug 14, 1997 07:33 Entered by: jj Message: Had a problem this week. Sent a bike frame, fenders and tank to be bead blasted to remove paint and rust at a local automotive shop I've used before. They must have had a new guy doing the blasting, 'cause he wore the fenders and tank so thin that I think they are ruined. So CAUTION! From now on I'll only use chemical stippers to remove paint. No more blasting! Subject: Removing House Paint From Bikes. Entered on: Aug 21, 1997 23:12 Entered by: PaulK Message: Would like to hear from other 's. I have tried gas and oven cleaner with limited results. Subject: RE: Removing House Paint From Bikes Entered on: Aug 22, 1997 09:19 Entered by: JimB Message: I told Menotomy about a product called "Goof Off" I saw at a local home supplies store. I don't know if he ever bought or used it, but it claimed to be able to take off house paint, stickers, glue, etc off painted surfaces. Subject: Sand Blasting Entered on: Aug 26, 1997 16:52 Entered by: Donald Message: Hi ii: I`ve herd stories about that hapening before. It is realy tobad that they ricked the tank and fenders on youre bike. I`ve heard that you can have it baking soda blasted. It sounds alot softer then using sand. Subject: lowrider Entered on: Aug 26, 1997 22:52 Entered by: Dane murphy Message: How do you get scratches off paint Subject: lowrider Entered on: Aug 26, 1997 22:52 Entered by: Dane murphy Message: How do you get scratches off paint Subject: RE: How do you get scratches off paint Entered on: Aug 27, 1997 09:30 Entered by: JimB Message: If the scratches are not very deep, you can use Simichrome polish to remove them. Deeper scratches can be touched up with touchup paint and then the bike can be wet sanded with 1000 grit and then 2000 grit sandpaper. Take care not to destroy your decals in the process. Subject: schwinn continemtal Entered on: Aug 30, 1997 00:31 Entered by: dave Message: where can Ifind corect orange paint and decals Ilive in maryland Subject: RE: Schwinn Continental decals and paint Entered on: Sep 5, 1997 08:56 Entered by: jj Message: Try "Memory Lane Classics" at: (419) 874-4501 Subject: Schwinn Stingray Entered on: Sep 10, 1997 22:28 Entered by: Jimmy Message: I found an old Stingray frame in the shed of the house we moved into, and I was wondering where to get decals.The paint is in marginal condition, there is very little surface rust except on the fenders. What should I do with it? Subject: RE: Stingray frame Entered on: Sep 11, 1997 13:06 Entered by: JimB Message: Sen e-mail to Menotomy. He can supply you with all the parts and decals you need to restore it. If you want to sell it, he will give you a good price for it. Subject: How much $$ Entered on: Sep 18, 1997 08:25 Entered by: jj Message: How much does it cost to have a frame painted? What do you all pay? Subject: RE; Frame Painting Cost Entered on: Sep 18, 1997 08:48 Entered by: JimB Message: Frame painting/restoration costs range from under $100 to close to $2000. To do a nice professional frame restoration job including new decals and pinstripes will generaly run $400-700. You can find places that will powder coat paint a frame for $100 or less, and you can often find an idle auto paint shop that will take on a job for around $100 or so. Neither will do more than a single color job. Subject: Restore childhood raleigh chopper Entered on: Sep 21, 1997 19:19 Entered by: Chris Message: hi,I just came across my old raleigh chopper at my parents house. i wish to do a full restore for my son. It has alot of miles. It has two stick shifts and five speeds (with no derailer). I need all decals and tires. It was black with orange decals. Where do I get these things and should I repaint? Any help would be appreciated. Tks, Subject: Your old Chopper Entered on: Sep 22, 1997 08:24 Entered by: kath Message: Don't repaint that Chopper. Just clean up the paint. For decals, there is a Britan-based Raleigh club mentioned under CLUBS in here. Subject: Where to find paint? Entered on: Sep 23, 1997 04:45 Entered by: Ken Message: Is there any way short of taking my bike to a auto body shop and having the paint color matched (cost = @ $100.) to find out exactly what shade I have?I have a '61 - '63 Sears with a mettalic red paint with white trim. (original)Overall, the paint is in good shape but the back fender has some large unsightly scratches. Subject: RE: Where to find paint? Entered on: Sep 23, 1997 15:54 Entered by: JimB Message: This has been a problem for me too. It's one of the reasons I like doing black or white bikes. My current project is a candy apple red bike and I'm having a terrible time finding matching touchup paint. The auto parts stores and the hobby shop don't have anything close. Let's hope someone out there responds to your inquiry with some suggestions. Subject: Paint touchup and matching Entered on: Sep 24, 1997 08:12 Entered by: jj Message: Use women's nail polish. It is cheap, easy to find, and comes in a bazzillion colors. Subject: RE: nail polish Entered on: Sep 24, 1997 09:27 Entered by: JimB Message: I tried nail polish and it was too transparent. You could still see the scratch underneath. Subject: Bike repaint Entered on: Sep 27, 1997 20:57 Entered by: Mike Message: I am new to the world of classic bike restoration. But I have been having a lot of fun restoring some old schwinns that i have been picking up at yard sales. I used to work in the automotive body repair buisness, but now I only paint for myself and friends. If anyone in the massachusetts area is in need of a repaint, e-mail me, I use only the best materials and I am not on a time clock. I have had excellent results using a small hand sand blaster at low pressure and 150 grit sand. Then I use a acid base primer to etch into the steel frame. then finally urethane basecoat and clearcoat. the results are spectacular. As far as color match I don't know if we could match exactly, but I am shure i could come close. Any comments or questions , feel free to e-mail me. Subject: Sting-Ray Painting Entered on: Sep 27, 1997 23:49 Entered by: Michael Nelson Message: Hi-I've been painting Sting-Rays and Kratesfor about a year now with excellentresults. I use paint from Hyper-Formance'Rays in Arizona. This paint is custommatched to orginal Schwinn colors. I usea chemical stripper to remove paint, andsome sand-blasting in problem areas only.Also I use a urethane clear coat, whichis very durable. Like others posting here,I would only recommend re-painting whenyou have a real rust bucket or desire abrand new looking bike. You should alwaysdisclose any repainting information ifyou are selling a bike-you'll saveyourself lots of trouble in the end.I charge $150 for Krates and $170 forSting-Rays, and this includes decals andprofessionally screen printed chain-guard(supurb quality). I do have refrencesavailable, please e-mail me if intersted.Thanks! Subject: oxidized paint Entered on: Sep 28, 1997 00:30 Entered by: mike Message: I have a few older bikes that have faded paint on them. I have been told that there is stuff out there that can be used to restore the paint to close to original color and make the paint shine again. I'd like to try it on a Raleigh that I have. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I am new to this sport. Subject: oxidized paint Entered on: Sep 28, 1997 00:31 Entered by: mike Message: I have a few older bikes that have faded paint on them. I have been told that there is stuff out there that can be used to restore the paint to close to original color and make the paint shine again. I'd like to try it on a Raleigh that I have. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I am new to this sport. Subject: RE: Oxidized paint Entered on: Sep 29, 1997 11:13 Entered by: Shamus Message: Use Automotive 'Rubbing Compound'. Get the finest (lowest grit) that you can. Subject: RE: oxidized paint Entered on: Sep 29, 1997 11:19 Entered by: JimB Message: I use Simichrome polish or Zymol HD-Cleanse. Both work great, especially on English bikes. Subject: Monark Super Deluxe Entered on: Sep 29, 1997 23:29 Entered by: Brad Message: HELP. I am restoreing a Monark Super Deluxe and need to find a color Picture to do the paint.If anyone knows where to find one can you please E-Mail me at bcollister@sprynet.com. It would be greatly appreciated. Subject: RE: Monark Super Deluxe Entered on: Oct 2, 1997 15:15 Entered by: JimB Message: You might be able to find a little bit of the original paint where the frame and the rear fender come together. You can then match pretty close from that sliver of color. Subject: RE: nail polish for touch-up Entered on: Oct 7, 1997 07:33 Entered by: jj Message: JimB, a few messages back said the nail polish was too transparent. What color is the bike you were touching up? Did you try a couple coats with light sanding between? Subject: RE: RE: nail polish for touch-up Entered on: Oct 7, 1997 09:19 Entered by: JimB Message: The bike is red. I finally matched it fairly close with some red metallic hobby paint called "stoplight red". Unfortunately, that paint does not sand well. This bike is not going to be one of my best restorations. Subject: HELP! Entered on: Oct 9, 1997 07:42 Entered by: Skip Message: When I paint a bike the paint always ends up being too soft and it chips or gouges easily. I carefully follow the directions on the can. I strip the bike down to bare metal, prime it, and give it a few coats of color. I wait 24-48 hours between coats. I paint at 70 degrees and low humidity. What am I doing wrong? I've tried several different brands of paint. Arrgghhhh! Subject: Masking Techniques Entered on: Oct 10, 1997 21:07 Entered by: Rob Message: I am going to repaint an old bike that I recently purchased, and I was wondering if i should mask off the name plate on the front of the frame, or try to remove it. The name plate is riveted on, and I am not sure if I could replace it without ruining it, BUT if I mask around it, you will be able to see where the new paint was applied....Anyone have any hints? Subject: RE: Masking Techniques Entered on: Oct 13, 1997 09:00 Entered by: JimB Message: It depends on what quality restoration job you want to do. If you are doing a high quality job, you should remove it. If it's an American bike, some of the bicycle restoration suppliers like Memory Lane Classics should have replacement rivets for sale. You can also go to the hardware store and purchase little micro-screws that will do the same job. Subject: Skip's Paint Problems Entered on: Oct 15, 1997 14:30 Entered by: john Message: Skip, it depends on what kind of paint you are using. I like to use automotive lacquers [Duplicolor touch up paint] because they dry fast, are easily repairable, and look great once they are wet sanded and rubbed out. The drawback is that they are brittle and chip easily. Enamels [krylon or other spray paints] are tougher, but they take literally months to fully set up. I'm just too impatient to wait to put my new toy together and ride! I'll bet youre the same way. So, if you have a bike you are going to take good care of after you paint it, try auto lacquer. Subject: "Soft" paint Entered on: Oct 21, 1997 13:36 Entered by: jj Message: John is right. If you are using enamel, be prepared to spray the bike and then put it away for a month or two. If you let it cure properly, you'll have a durable finish. But you really have to let it set a longggggggggg time. Do a couple frames at once and then start a different project while they cure. Subject: duplicating original paint Entered on: Nov 2, 1997 03:20 Entered by: Will Message: I am planing on repainting a bike I have. I thought of copying the original frame design to make a stencil of it. This hopefully will make the bike look like it did. Has anyone else tried this? What alternative is there to sandblasting the frame to get the old paint and rust off? Should I try a chemical stripper? Thanks Subject: Chemical Stripper Entered on: Nov 4, 1997 09:43 Entered by: jj Message: The chemical stripper 'Strip Eze' (sp?) works great but is dangerous. Follow the can's instructions! Subject: Strip-Eeze Entered on: Nov 5, 1997 16:27 Entered by: johnB Message: The last batch of Strip-Eez I bought was reformulated to be "Environmentally Freindly". As you may know, this is the same as "Doesn't Work". Bring back my Methyl Ethyl Ketone! Subject: Enamel Entered on: Nov 7, 1997 09:22 Entered by: Philsh Message: One point on the enamel and spray can topic. It's true you have to give enamels a long time to set - like at least a month. But then you can compound and rub the heck out of it and it will shine like a mirror. Spray many thin coats. Don't get any sags or drips. Don't care if the paint is going on "orange peel". Plan on getting your exercise by rubbing it out later. Subject: "Bulk" Painting Entered on: Nov 14, 1997 08:24 Entered by: kath Message: I have 3 20" frames that I plan to build up over the winter. They all need a repaint and I'm not trying to do a "correct" restoration or anything, so they don't need to be some correct fancy color. I just want to build some cool riders. Is there any mailorder painter or someone who I can get a deal with on stripping and painting all 3 frames? Subject: RE: "Bulk" Painting Entered on: Nov 14, 1997 10:18 Entered by: JimB Message: You might want to swing a deal with a local auto body shop by treating them as filler jobs for those times when business is slow. Ask them for a quote and tell them you need the job done sometime in the next 4 months. Alternatively, if you are not too picky on the shade of color, you can usually piggyback an auto paint job of the same color. Subject: Legality of Reproduction Decals Entered on: Nov 17, 1997 23:45 Entered by: Kirk Message: Lots of people sell reproduction decals. Does a restorer need to ensure that the people he gets the decals from have the right to reproduce these trademarks? Also, what about taking the old ones to a decal shop and having them reproduce them? Question is due in part to wild price quote differences. Subject: Legal repro decals Entered on: Nov 19, 1997 11:27 Entered by: philsh Message: Interesting question! Any decal older than 70 years should be fair game because it has been in the public domain for a long time. But taking a decal from a Sting-Ray chainguard and reselling it commercially seems to me to be a copyright violation. Subject: Decal, Silk Screen, Painted?? Entered on: Nov 26, 1997 09:14 Entered by: kath Message: Anyone care to write something up describing the different ways a bike's name might be printed on a chainguard, or the way "spears" and other decorations are applied? I think early Schwinns had their logos painted on, not applied as a decal. Is this correct? And can someone explain the difference between a decal and a silk screen? [thank you for this great vintage bike resource] Subject: Pinstripes, Decals, Silkscreens and Stencils. Entered on: Dec 1, 1997 15:58 Entered by: johnB Message: Pinstripes are done by hand with a brush called a dagger. They vary a little in width and coat thickness, and are tapered [pointed] at both ends. My D-11 has three pinstripes on the chainguard. You know what stencils are, but how do you apply a stencil to a compound curve, like a fender or frame tube? Just glue the stencil to a porous screen made of silk, then you can stretch it over a fender to do the darts, diamonds and stripes. Place the screen in a jig to do feathers on headtubes [use a rubber squeegie to force the paint through the cloth]. Decal is short for decalcomania. They are designs [sometimes multi-color] printed on specially treated paper to be transferred later. The printed design layer is attached to the paper with a water soluble glue. Soak the decal in water, then carefully slide the transfer onto the chainguard or seattube. Decals can have much more detail than a silkscreen or stencil. Subject: RE: Decal, Silk Screen, Painted?? Entered on: Dec 1, 1997 16:16 Entered by: JimB Message: I'm no expert in this area, but I'll give it a try anyway. Early on, graphics were very limited on bikes and all of it was hand painted. Labor was cheap and plantiful, so an hour of hand painting added 25 cents to the cost of the bike. Next, they went to transfers which were mass-produced pieces of art on a clear material. I don't know exacly how the clear material was fastened to the bike. Around the 1940's they started using screen printing which involves a silk screen that is placed over the piece. The silk screen masks off the areas that are not to receive paint and the silk material insures an even coating of paint. A roller is used to apply the paint over the silk screen. There are also decals which are applied and then a clear coat applied over the top. I don't know the difference between decals and transfers, but people claim there is a difference. Finally, there are all types of new computer generated methods of applying graphics on bicycles today. I don't fully understand the technology for those. That's the best I can do. Maybe someone else can take it from here and expand on the underlying concepts. |
| Subject: 1935 Tricycle Entered on: Dec 2, 1997 15:06 Entered by: Bill Message: I have a 1935 Tricycle that I would like to restore, but have no idea where to take it or who to ask. I live in Northern California and would appreciate any advice/help anyone could give me. Thanks Subject: Paint Technique Question?? Entered on: Dec 2, 1997 22:10 Entered by: Steve Message: I'm new to the hobby and restoring a Columbia 5 Star Delux. I intend to try and paint it myself. I am going to practice first on a none Classic. Can anyone advise what sequence will give me best results with regular automotive Spray paint. ie. How many coats of primer?, Rub down primer between coats?, How many top coats etc. Do I polish after or before the clear coat application. Also if I am using Primer do I need to clean every spec off old paint off?? These are probably basic questions but we all need to start somewhere. Any other advise additional to these questions would be appreciated. Thanks for any advise SteveP Subject: Painting Techniques Entered on: Dec 3, 1997 13:17 Entered by: johnB Message: Steve, first of all, A bike is worth more with it's original paint. If it's that far gone, have a pro do it. A Five Star is a potentially valuable bike. If you do paint it, and botch the job, End of Disclaimer 1.Strip or sandblast.I have a good sandblaster near me with a light touch. Others have not been so lucky. I hate dealing with messy strippers that don't work. Wash with thinner and light prime. I have my blaster do this so the raw steel is not exposed to moisture very long. 2. Use a fine file to remove any high spots from chips, welds etc. 3. Hang the frame by putting a 12" dowel through the headtube. Tie a rope to the ends of the dowel so the headtube is just above eye level. Do this outside, in direct sunlight. Don't worry, lacquer dries fast. Spray a light coat [about 1/3 of an 11oz. can] of lacquer primer-filler. Get all the nooks and crannies first, then spin the frame 180 and get the spots you missed. 4. Wet sand with slightly soapy water and 320 grit Wetordry paper from 3M. This will show all the high spots. Be careful around edges. Don't sand through too much, but some steel will show at this stage. Fill low spots with Glazing putty [Small spots and scratches only]. Sand putty spots with 320. 5. Spray three coats of dark colored primer. This will take one full can. 6. Wet sand with 400 grit. Watch the edges, don't sand through there. You may sand through some remaining high spots- it's OK, youre trying to level everything out, and you do that by sanding off the high spots and leaving primer in the low spots. 7. Three coats light gray primer. 8. Wet sand with 400 grit. Do not rub through anywhere. You will start to see the dark primer show through. That is your cue to stop sanding that spot. Don't miss it. You are trying to get to a satiny finish at this stage. There should be no sign of chips dings or low spots. If you see any imperfections at this point, BACK UP to step 7 and redo those areas. The quality of the paint job is being determined right now, so take your time. Subject: More Bore Entered on: Dec 3, 1997 13:49 Entered by: johnB Message: Step 9. Hang the frame and shoot 3 more coats of the light primer-filler. Wet sand this time with 600 grit. The surface should look like frosted glass. No imperfections should be visible. I like to wet sand with the frame in my lap [old jeans] and the sun over my shoulder. Sand a little, wipe with a soft rag, and watch the surface as it dries. You will be able to see imperfections jus when the surface is half dry. It helps to be at least part German at this point. 10. Time to paint. You'll need three 11 oz. cans of lacquer for the frame, More for accessories. Hang the frame by cutting a 2" piece of wire coat hanger and bend one end in a 'J'. Stick this in the seattube, and bend the other end over your hanging dowel. The frame will hang just about level. this will ensure you get plenty of paint where you need it, but it makes it harder to get to the nooks. Shoot three light coats of color. This should just about cover the primer. No runs or sags at this stage, please. 11. Light wet sand with 600 grit. A little rub through to the primer is OK, because you are going to shoot 12. Three more coats of color. 14. Two tone? Now is the time to mask off and shoot three coats of the second color. 3M Fineline plastic tape will give you a sharp edge, but it doesn't bend. You'll have to use regular masking tape for curves. 16. Wet sand with 1000 grit. Things should be looking good now, don't rub through! 17. Wet sand with 1500 grit. 18. Polish with No. 7 Polishing Compound. Use lots of water, this is not a wax and you'renot to the final finish yet. A few streak sand smears are OK. 19. Apply any decals and pinstriping now. Give them time to set up before you 20. Wax. I like Meguiars. Use something with low or no abrasives. I do not use clearcoats, I think they look fake and plastic-y, but if you must, clearcoat before polishing. 21. Shoot the inside of all the frame tubes with J.P. Weigle's Framesaver rustproofer. 22. Clean up the mess the Framesaver just made all over your bike. 23. Take a fine round file and remove the paint from the inside edges of the headtube and bottom bracket. This is so the bearing cups don't chip the paint in these areas. Smear a little grease on the bare steel. It will be OK, really. 24. Now carefully assemble your bike and ride it. Lacquer is easy to repair, and by now, you're an expert! Subject: Would love to see pictures of your work Entered on: Dec 4, 1997 08:13 Entered by: kath Message: Oh my! Subject: Errata Entered on: Dec 4, 1997 14:27 Entered by: johnB Message: I left out number 13 because everyone knows it is an unlucky number. I'm not sure why I left 15 out, though... And the piece of coat hanger should be 2' long, not 2" Subject: Repainting - Need a good Reference Entered on: Dec 9, 1997 10:36 Entered by: Dennis Message: Who does a good job on frame repaints? I will be restoring a 66 fastback. Just getting prices etc... thanks Dennis Subject: Painter Entered on: Dec 10, 1997 14:46 Entered by: MFeeney Message: This guy gets good reviews: Dave Erickson, Minnisotta 612-473-8365 Subject: decals for 63 stingray Entered on: Dec 15, 1997 21:03 Entered by: Tommy Message: I realy need decals for '63 schwinn stingray delux where may I find them? Subject: How to prevent clamp-on scratches? Entered on: Dec 16, 1997 00:58 Entered by: Kirk Message: So, what's the cleverest thing to put under clamp-ons so they don't scratch a new paint job but look as if they were just clamped on by themselves (like they were originally)? Thanks. Subject: Decals Entered on: Dec 16, 1997 09:05 Entered by: jj Message: Try Memory Lane Classics Subject: Clamp scratch prevention Entered on: Dec 16, 1997 09:07 Entered by: jj Message: Place a clear plastic bag around the painted area. Then mount the clamp, then tear off the extra plastic. It leaves a custom gasket for the clamp. Subject: My Phantom need paint! Entered on: Dec 22, 1997 14:04 Entered by: Patrick (belkerx3@webtv.net) Message: I have two Phantoms that I want to get painted. The paint doesn't have to be show quality but does need to be nice and presentable. Both of these bikes will be riders and not show bikes. How much would I be looking at to get the frame, carrier, tank, fork and chainguard and headlight painted for these two bikes? One is a Red Phantom and the other is black. Also is there any decent painters that'll take a couple of old bikes as partial payment? Subject: RE: My Phantom need paint! Entered on: Dec 22, 1997 16:32 Entered by: JimB () Message: You are probably looking at around $500 each to do the job right. Subject: But... Entered on: Dec 23, 1997 08:37 Entered by: jj () Message: If you strip and prepare them first, and then take them to your local autobody shop and tell them "hey, next time you're shooting a red car, do this frame/parts, and next time you're shooting a black car, do this frame/parts) you might get away with $50 per bike. Also try a motorcycle shop. Subject: Sprayer or Air Brush? Entered on: Dec 30, 1997 21:16 Entered by: Patrick (belkerx3@webtv.net) Message: I've decided that I'm going to paint a couple of my project bikes myself. They're not classics so don't worry. My question is: is it best to apply the paint with an automotive paint gun or an air brush type sprayer? I'm going to buy which ever one is recommended. Also, can the primer coat be from a quality spray can or should it be shot with the same applicator as the final coat? All imput is apreciated. Subject: PATRICK! Entered on: Jan 4, 1998 19:31 Entered by: johnB (johnburt@mailexcite.com) Message: PATRICK!.... Don't tell me I did all that typing for nothing.... Scroll up a few posts, please. Subject: ????? Entered on: Jan 6, 1998 14:33 Entered by: Patrick () Message: I scrolled and read everything again and still didn't see any reference to what is used as an applicator (air brush or an automotive gun). I printed out your tips so your time wasn't wasted but I still don't see the answer to my question. What part am I missing? Subject: Cans Entered on: Jan 6, 1998 16:55 Entered by: johnB (johnburt@mailexcite.com) Message: Cans, Spray cans of automotive lacquer. See step 3. Subject: 1892 Victor bicycle Entered on: Jan 6, 1998 19:16 Entered by: Kelly (nebula@adams.net) Message: my friend has a 1892 victor he's looking for someone qualified to do a quality restoration to this old bike. please email me & i'll give him the info Subject: frame painting Entered on: Jan 7, 1998 10:23 Entered by: andy (rosea@mail.nwc.whecn.edu) Message: Am going to be painting a Hiawatha/Cleveland WElding frame...have been following John's tips. Couple of questions: will the frame id no under the crankset still show? If not, should I mask it off during painting and coat with clear nail polish? Also, rear dropouts have threaded adjuster screws which bear against the axles. I have cleaned up threads but wondering about getting too much paint on them, or should I mask off? Also, how do you treat chromed parts? Andy Subject: Paint or Powder coat? Entered on: Jan 9, 1998 03:45 Entered by: Ken (kensmith@freenet.columbus.oh.us) Message: I can't decide which to choose. An El Cheapo paintjob (Earl Shibe style) or for an extra $50. go with a Powdercoat. What are the drawbacks to powdercoating? I plan on riding the bike a lot. I'm a disaster with a spray can so I need a shop to do it. Subject: Decal tips? Entered on: Jan 13, 1998 10:30 Entered by: Patrick (belkerx3@webtv.net) Message: I just finished painting my first bike useing John's instructions from above. It turned out great. I used enamal so I have it hanging in the attic waiting to cure. I need to know what to do next as far as decals. I tried to add decals to a bike once but the first wash they came off. Should I let them cure too or should I add a clear coat on top of them. A couple of the decals looked cloudy. Is there any way to prevent that? Any help is appreciated. Subject: Decals Entered on: Jan 14, 1998 08:59 Entered by: kath () Message: Not sure what to say about the 'cloudy' issue, but a coat or 2 of clearcoat enamel after applying the deals is the way to go. And you can probably do it right now, without waiting for the color coats to cure. But, lets wait and see what the prolific expert (John) has to say..... Subject: Decals, Clearcoat and kath Entered on: Jan 14, 1998 11:49 Entered by: johnB (johnburt@mailexcite.com) Message: Hey, kath, who are you calling Prolific?.. ;-) ..Decals are sometimes cloudy for days after application, and stay soft for weeks after that.....Don't touch them ! I chewed up the seattube decal on my Krate by clamping it in a workstand weeks after i had applied it. I don't use clearcoats, so I don't have experience here, but I wouldn't clearcoat for about a month after application, just to be safe.... Subject: JohnB Pinstriping Question Entered on: Jan 19, 1998 13:19 Entered by: dq (dqami@hotmail.com) Message: Hey JohnB, you seem pretty knowledgable on this type of stuff so maybe you can help me. I am painting a couple of bikes and want to pinstripe around some graphics I have applied (basic 'arrowhead' design around the headtube and bars). What is the best way to apply a pinstripe to outline the graphic and get a straight line? I have thought of masking each one individually but it would be very time consuming because each one would have to dry completely before applying tape over it to mask for the next one. Using a straightedge and freehand doesn't cut it. Any suggestions? Subject: Pinstriping Entered on: Jan 20, 1998 16:46 Entered by: johnB (johnburt@mailexcite.com) Message: Pinstriping is tricky enough to send me off on another 2 page Epic, but I'll try to keep this as short as possible. First thing I did was hit the Library. Check out some books from the Auto section on Custom painting. Then, you'll need a pinstriping brush called a 'Dagger'. Be prepared to search high and low for this item. I had mine special ordered through a craft shop. BTW, They're not cheap. I think I paid around $20 for mine. Next, you'll need sign painters enamel. Look for a product called 'One Shot'. You need a slow drying time and high hiding enamel. Then, practice. I offered to practice on my wifes car, but she declined.Hmmm? Actually, start on a flat, smooth surface, like coated cardboard. Pulling straight lines on a flat surface is pretty easy. The real trick is striping curved bike frame tubes! I practiced on some old pieces of pipe.Practice, and then Practice some more! The stripes on my bike came out pretty good. Not perfect, but better than some work I have seen on Production Bikes. Just play around with the stuff until you feel comfortable with it, THEN do your bike. Subject: RE: Pinstriping Entered on: Jan 21, 1998 10:57 Entered by: Jim Divoky (jim.divoky@worldnet.att.net) Message: Has anyone used the Beugler Pinstriping Tool, http://www.beugler.com? Below is some verbiage from their site. Jim S. B. Beugler invented and patented this versatile paint striping tool in 1934. Today, the Beugler Striper remains the recognized choice for quality pinstriping and detailed paint lining. Used for decoration, identification, accenting, outlining and highlighting, the Beugler Striper paints an even, consistent line regardless of the speed of application. The Beugler tool is not gravity fed which enables paint to flow in any position, is safe and non-pressurized, does not require tape for clean edges, and elminates stick-on vinyl tape and paint brushes. Precision machining and design allows for precise application of lines in any position from fine 1/64" to broad 1/2". Includes a complete 30 page User Guide designed as a companion to the Beugler Instructional Video Tape Subject: RE: Pinstriping Entered on: Jan 21, 1998 12:16 Entered by: dq (dqami@hotmail.com) Message: First, thanks Johnb for the info! I have a Beugler and I use it for striping the fenders, It has metal guides that attach to the tool which helps in getting an even smooth line. However, it also takes lots of practice, getting the correct angle, going around fender braces, etc. Not real good for bike frames, however. Subject: Just wanted to say Entered on: Jan 22, 1998 09:27 Entered by: MFeeney (mattfeeney@hotmail.com) Message: I just wanted to thank JohnB and everyone else who takes the time to put their experience and ideas in here. I've learned some good tips and saved myself a lot of headaches. Cheers to you all! The (virtual) beer and sodas are on me! Subject: Entered on: Feb 17, 1998 21:51 Entered by: Schwinn MAN () Message: Same here MFeenie Subject: paint colors Entered on: Feb 19, 1998 16:28 Entered by: Andy (rosea@mail.nwc.whecn) Message: I have been following JohnB's preparation tips and about ready to order the laquer for my Hiawatha. I am thinking just a gloss black, gloss white and gloss firengine red, probably a ppg product. Are these pretty standard colors for bikes of this vintage? I think it is from the 50's or 40's. The frame was black; fenders red w/ white pinstripe and rims white w/ red pinstripe. Will try to match against sample spots, since this is all I really have to go on. Any suggestions? Am going to use a conventional spray gun. andy Subject: RE: Pinstriping Entered on: Feb 20, 1998 00:55 Entered by: Brent (corbifam@shianet.org) Message: Hi to everybody in Fat Tire Bike land. I've been lettering and striping, mostly lettering for alot of years. First off, you can find Mack(brand) dagger striping brushes at most auto parts stores where I live for about 10 bucks. They usually come in 00, 0, 1,2. 00 being the thinnest when it's loaded with paint. The most critical part of the process is thinning the paint properly so when you pull a line the brush will not drag or skip. If you thin to much the brush will slide and the paint will run and not be uniform in width. I also use One- Shot sign enamel. It is a Lead Base paint made for it excellent coverage and durability. If I can help more, feel free to e-mail me. Now I need to see what bikes to sell at the next swap meet! Subject: Entered on: Feb 20, 1998 21:43 Entered by: Gregory michal jones () Message: how do you take a kickstand out of a schwinn Subject: Schwinn Kickstands Entered on: Feb 24, 1998 13:40 Entered by: Queennie () Message: Somewhere on this web site there is a good discussion on removing Schwinn kickstands. It might be under the Musclebikes topic? Subject: help with primer Entered on: Feb 25, 1998 16:31 Entered by: Greg (ggroth9@xsite.net) Message: At the recent milwaukee swap meet, I came away with two cans of OEM schwinn gold. I pulled out my '76 schwinn scrambler, and took it down to bare metal. Now here's my problem. I don't know what color primer to use. I want to get it back to the correct color, and have only one shot at doing this cheaply. I know schwinn used a silver undercoat on some of their paint jobs. Was this one? I'm pretty sure that the primer was flat red, but it's been a couple years and paint jobs that I can't recall. Also would anyone have a lead on decals? Or possibly a place that can manufacture a set? (preferably inexpensively). I might be able to get my hands on one, for duplication purposes. any help thrown my way would be greatly appreciated greg Subject: Color Entered on: Feb 26, 1998 08:53 Entered by: jj () Message: I might be thinking of Schwinn's "Coppertone" color, but I think it goes: Silver primer, then gold, then clearcoat. Subject: Entered on: Mar 7, 1998 04:19 Entered by: Geoff () Message: I am fixing up my 10 year old Marin Mountain bike, I was wondering if any of you know where to get a Marin Decal? Subject: Head Badge Entered on: Mar 13, 1998 12:22 Entered by: Derrick (TTrakker@aol.com) Message: I am restoring a mid-fifties B.F. Goodrich and I would like to know wether i should leave the head badge in the condition it is in or if there is a place i can send it to that will repaint it. It is faded and scratched. |
| Subject: 56 Schwinn Tornato Paint! Entered on: Mar 14, 1998 09:52 Entered by: Donald (Briese@Northernnet.com) Message: Hello! I have a 1956 Schwinn Tornado that is almost ready to be repainted. I do not know what coler would be a cloose match. It is a forest green. THANKS!! Subject: RE: Head Badge Entered on: Mar 23, 1998 23:30 Entered by: Jim Divoky (jim.divoky@worldnet.att.net) Message: I can't give you a recommendation on whether or not to restore the head badge but I have heard that Dave Stromberger does a good job should you decide to do so. He can be reached at dave@nostalgic.net. Subject: Tornado Paint! Entered on: Mar 31, 1998 08:12 Entered by: Donald (Briese@Paulbunyan.net) Message: If you respond to Tornado paint messege up above please use new E-mail address! Thanks Subject: OOPS AGAIN!! Entered on: Apr 2, 1998 18:37 Entered by: Donald (briese@paulbunyan.net) Message: All the letters in the address must lowercased! Thank you! Subject: DECALS Entered on: Apr 8, 1998 13:25 Entered by: DREW (ddemoss@flash.net) Message: I AM GOING TO REPAINT MY GIANNI MOTTA ROAD BIKE. CAN YOU GIVE ME A SOURCE FOR THE DECALS I NEED TO REPLACE? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP! Subject: Paint Problems + Questions Entered on: Apr 15, 1998 23:50 Entered by: Tony (draftex@connect.ab.ca) Message: I have a J.C Higgins Fleetwood, its green in color but needs touch-ups. I was thinking of just re-painting, but then I thought I would take the bike to Home Depot or somewhere to get the color matched. What should I do? If you have a picture of a J.C Higgins Fleetwood please email me. I would like to have something to base this bike on. Question 2: The seat on the bike is not in great shape. Its a green sparkle material but there is a dingy color, plus a bit of dirt and will not wash out too well. Any suggestions? Question 3: I have read a few messages about removing paint. Is there a product that you know for sure that works? I have white house paint on the chromed back fender. How can this be removed? Subject: For your back fender... Entered on: Apr 16, 1998 08:17 Entered by: jj () Message: Use steel wool or a 'scotchbrite' scrubbing pad. It will remove the paint but not harm the chrome. Subject: Caution Entered on: Apr 17, 1998 08:31 Entered by: Donald (briese@paulbunyan.net) Message: That Steel wool pads! They well make small scratches in the crome. Steel wool is good if use the fine stuff! Subject: Spray w/ airbrush? Entered on: May 7, 1998 18:30 Entered by: Charlie (charlie@tuna.net) Message: Has anyone had success painting their bike with an airbrush rather than a spraygun? What about with metallics? I want to try some painting, but don't want to make the jump to a full-on spraygun and tank compressor. There's not a lot of room in NYC for extra stuff, and I'll probably be painting on my roof, so portability is an issue. It seems to me that a medium size double action airbrush would be ideal, since bicycle tubes are so thin and the joints so complex. Subject: Schwinn 1973 Fiesta paint and Columbia wheel/fender Entered on: May 7, 1998 18:43 Entered by: Karen (kolling@pa.dec.com) Message: I have a 1973 Schwinn Fiesta that wound up partly buried in mud for a week due to flooding. A local bicycle shop has done a mechanical restoration and gotten the rust off the chrome, but the paint is rusting badly. There are lots of places, including on the painted wheels, where rust is bubbling up thru the paint, and it's progressively getting worse. The good news is that the parts of the bike with the Schwinn logos are okay. Is there anything I can do to fix/stop the rust, or am I looking at repainting? If the latter, can anyone recommend a place between SF and San Jose, CA? Also, I have a Columbia that I bought sometime in the past ten-twenty years, which has been moldering away in my garage since an accident which clobbered its front wheel and fender. Any idea where I might get replacements or get the fender fixed? Thanks. Subject: oops Entered on: May 7, 1998 18:55 Entered by: Karen (kolling@pa.dec.com) Message: Oops. I goofed in my previous msg - it's a 1963, not 1973 Schwinn Fiesta (picture in old bicycle pix on this site), not that that matters to my questions... Subject: RE: Karen's Paint Entered on: May 15, 1998 10:01 Entered by: kath () Message: The only thing I can think of is to compound the painted parts using autobody compound, and then wax them. That should 'arrest' the rusting. Be sure the bike is completely dried out first. Subject: Paint completely gone Entered on: Jun 12, 1998 08:48 Entered by: Karen (Lycamp@AOL.com) Message: My sister has acquired a 1910 tricycle made by the American National Co. in Toledo, Ohio. There is an eagle on the plate over the word "American". The paint is almost completely gone. Could the paint scheme/code be lime-green/orange-red? Thank you! Subject: Pinstriping Entered on: Jun 13, 1998 23:27 Entered by: WesK () Message: Does anyone have any ideas on how to do good looking pinstriping for bicycle fenders? I've tried using fine-point paint pens, but the lines look to thick and clumsy. Any Ideas? Subject: pin stripe on fenders Entered on: Jun 17, 1998 01:37 Entered by: mark () Message: 1/8" fine line tape from automotive paint supply.Use electrical tape to mask from the bottom edge of the fender up to where you want the pinstripe to be. then "butt" the 1/8" fineline tape up to the electrical tape. Then run electrical tape from the top edge of the fineline tape. then remove the 1/8" fine line. This will give you a smooth even ares to eithet air brush or hand stripe with a pin stripe brush.(available at auto paint supply) Subject: Sandblasting Entered on: Jun 17, 1998 01:44 Entered by: mark (mjf914@prodigy.net) Message: Sandblasting is o.k depending on the type of frame and how many times it has already been sandblasted. Most antique cruisers are no problem. even 2-3 times or more.(heavy duty steel) The best thing is to request that your sandblaster use old sand. The company i work for manufactures bicycles and our sand blaster uses worn out 60 grit sand. They blast all day with 60 grit then empty the pail and sweep the filtered sand dust back in to do our frames. Works excellent and I do a lot of old cruiser restorations on the side. I use the same blaster with 100% success. Subject: repainting cruisers Entered on: Jun 17, 1998 01:51 Entered by: Mark (mjf914@prodigy.net) Message: I restore cruisers all the time. Repainting is the way to go if you repaint the original color,find decals and do an excellent job.If you want to sell it or just have value ...you better do a good job.If you just want to ride the damn thing , then just do "what ever"! Subject: Touching up paint Entered on: Jun 18, 1998 11:01 Entered by: Dan (daniel.a.goldenberg@boeing.com) Message: Has anybody tried using nail polish as touch up paint for scrathes, nicks, etc on paint? I have heard of this done on the rec.bicycles newsgroups. Apparantly there are so many colors available that you can mix colors to get a pretty good match. Subject: Types of wax Entered on: Jun 20, 1998 21:06 Entered by: Winchester () Message: For those who do not know what kind of wax is best for their situation: If the paint is in desperate need of wax, first use a carnauba wax with a mild abrasive in it (Kit, Turtle Wax). When it is due for another wax job (two days to a week later), use Zymol. The results can be strikingly better. One thing to remember: LIQUID WAX STREAKS BIG TIME. TRY TO AVOID IT. Subject: spraypaint Entered on: Jun 25, 1998 00:45 Entered by: Philip (TRUNCHEON@CENTURYinter.net) Message: When using spraypaint, it is probubly a good idea to use automotive paint available at autoparts stores. This paint has much higher solids than the cheap spraypaint from the hardware store. If you do some painting with each, you can pretty well tell right off by how much better the auto stuff covers. Subject: paint removal Entered on: Jun 30, 1998 17:26 Entered by: Peter (peter@jrsweb.com) Message: Novice here, and looking at a poor man's restoration of a J.C. Higgins FlighLiner. I need to repaint it. Seems like everyone advocates chemical stripping of old paint. I was wondering why not strip it off with a wire brush disk on a drill. I will probably get shot for this - I am imagining that it adversely effects the frame or frame metal but I needed to know if there is a serious reason not to do this. I just don't want to invest in chemicals that also might require special handling and would like to do the cheapest/easiest stripping job that I can. If I can strip it cheap I may even be able to get a local auto painter to paint it for me so I don't have to ruin the paint job myself. thanks for any input (but be kind - I really am a novice at this). Peter Subject: pinstripping fenders Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 02:34 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: take a pinstrip brush mount it in a vise with brush side up use the braces or some string to fasten the fender above the brush test it first dry to see that the fender runs along the (swings) along the brush trail an error but just a thought.. Subject: pinstripping fenders Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 02:41 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: take a pinstrip brush mount it in a vise with brush side up use the braces or some string to fasten the fender above the brush test it first dry to see that the fender runs along the (swings) along the brush trail an error but just a thought.. Subject: pinstripping fenders Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 03:04 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: take a pinstrip brush mount it in a vise with brush side up use the braces or some string to fasten the fender above the brush test it first dry to see that the fender runs along the (swings) along the brush trail an error but just a thought.. then I remember "OBEY GRAVITY IT'S THE LAW"!For get what Isaid mount the fender in an old fork with an axle only so the braces and fender pivot take your brush and hold it against the fork move the fork or the fender back and forth .test it first cuz Ihavent done it but it seemed feaseable like crome better useing steel wool is ok if you know when to stop but Ive found that coating fenders and such with oil and useing (carefully)! a sharp razor blade it takes that rust right OFF!!with out fadding the crome. oil oil oil oil cheap cheap 10w40 dose wonders on that original bike you wish to keep keep keep try dabbing bleach on you decals white only of course 80/20 blch/wtr. cad spokes looking a little dull buy some "LIME AWAY"AT SHOPNSAVE DIP FOR 30?60 SECS wash and wipe away dont be beathing this stuff. tommorrow you'll really bumm.works for anything cad.SUPER DAVE MAD RESTO GUY... Subject: pinstripping fenders,other funny stuff. Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 04:18 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: ok, so all you pros out there are just rolling,well nice to make people laugh. the only way to figure things out is do it your self.I've f...edup enough to learn what not to do,but I did it on old rusty huffy 10spds first then applied what I learned to my original keepers.as any collector knows don't ever paint an old toy! leave it the way you found it,with in reason of course.an easy and cheap way of stripping a frame hit the SWBYP'S,and locate a radiator shop,they may dip it for $10.00 two days latter thanks to bendix avation paint its clean to the bone wash it off with a hose in side and out then hang dry, primer,asap. schwinn had a three stage painting process,with baking time inbetween. so try fitting a good old hair dryer to the crank hanger and block the otherside with a peice of wood or somthing after all the frame is hollow, like my head you say... well this dude I met once used 300mph aircraft paint and a50 gallon drum out fitted with little heaters hung the frames in side and practily cooked em never did see em chipped.course his house did burn down!! ethier way you still heat the frame up the same way a car place bakes their painted cars.saves time waitting for it to dry and sets really hard. what is the most common thing used on any bike? petroleum, what is the main ingredient in most all things used,to sucessfully restore a bike petroleum! oil oil oil oil of course thanks to science ther are other more practical chemicals to use but useing you noggin can save money time and regret. Iregret not taking a class in computers or learning how to spell but Inever reget selling old schwinn's, super dave ... PS use those socks that your dryer ate one of to rub,buff,scrub dust,dab,polish,clean,wipe,wrap,soak, or just put a bar of soap in and hit your self over your head. Subject: pinstripping fenders,other funny stuff. Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 04:29 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: ok, so all you pros out there are just rolling,well nice to make people laugh. the only way to figure things out is do it your self.I've f...edup enough to learn what not to do,but I did it on old rusty huffy 10spds first then applied what I learned to my original keepers.as any collector knows don't ever paint an old toy! leave it the way you found it,with in reason of course.an easy and cheap way of stripping a frame hit the SWBYP'S,and locate a radiator shop,they may dip it for $10.00 two days latter thanks to bendix avation paint its clean to the bone wash it off with a hose in side and out then hang dry, primer,asap. schwinn had a three stage painting process,with baking time inbetween. so try fitting a good old hair dryer to the crank hanger and block the otherside with a peice of wood or somthing after all the frame is hollow, like my head you say... well this dude I met once used 300mph aircraft paint and a50 gallon drum out fitted with little heaters hung the frames in side and practily cooked em never did see em chipped.course his house did burn down!! ethier way you still heat the frame up the same way a car place bakes their painted cars.saves time waitting for it to dry and sets really hard. what is the most common thing used on any bike? petroleum, what is the main ingredient in most all things used,to sucessfully restore a bike petroleum! oil oil oil oil of course thanks to science ther are other more practical chemicals to use but useing you noggin can save money time and regret. Iregret not taking a class in computers or learning how to spell but Inever reget selling old schwinn's, super dave ... PS use those socks that your dryer ate one of to rub,buff,scrub dust,dab,polish,clean,wipe,wrap,soak, or just put a bar of soap in and hit your self over your head. Subject: pinstripping fenders,other funny stuff. Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 04:30 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: ok, so all you pros out there are just rolling,well nice to make people laugh. the only way to figure things out is do it your self.I've f...edup enough to learn what not to do,but I did it on old rusty huffy 10spds first then applied what I learned to my original keepers.as any collector knows don't ever paint an old toy! leave it the way you found it,with in reason of course.an easy and cheap way of stripping a frame hit the SWBYP'S,and locate a radiator shop,they may dip it for $10.00 two days latter thanks to bendix avation paint its clean to the bone wash it off with a hose in side and out then hang dry, primer,asap. schwinn had a three stage painting process,with baking time inbetween. so try fitting a good old hair dryer to the crank hanger and block the otherside with a peice of wood or somthing after all the frame is hollow, like my head you say... well this dude I met once used 300mph aircraft paint and a50 gallon drum out fitted with little heaters hung the frames in side and practily cooked em never did see em chipped.course his house did burn down!! ethier way you still heat the frame up the same way a car place bakes their painted cars.saves time waitting for it to dry and sets really hard. what is the most common thing used on any bike? petroleum, what is the main ingredient in most all things used,to sucessfully restore a bike petroleum! oil oil oil oil of course thanks to science ther are other more practical chemicals to use but useing you noggin can save money time and regret. Iregret not taking a class in computers or learning how to spell but Inever reget selling old schwinn's, super dave ... PS use those socks that your dryer ate one of to rub,buff,scrub dust,dab,polish,clean,wipe,wrap,soak, or just put a bar of soap in and hit your self over your head. Subject: pinstripping fenders,other funny stuff. Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 04:34 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: what is the main ingredient in most all things used,to sucessfully restore a bike petroleum! oil oil oil oil of course thanks to science ther are other more practical chemicals to use but useing you noggin can save money time and regret. Iregret not taking a class in computers or learning how to spell but Inever reget selling old schwinn's, super dave ... PS use those socks that your dryer ate one of to rub,buff,scrub dust,dab,polish,clean,wipe,wrap,soak, or just put a bar of soap in and hit your self over your head. Subject: pinstriping,paint striping ,and some usefull tips Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 05:28 Entered by: dave (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: what is the main ingredient in most all things used,to sucessfully restore a bike petroleum! oil oil oil oil of course thanks to science ther are other more practical chemicals to use but useing you noggin can save money time and regret. Iregret not taking a class in computers or learning how to spell but Inever reget selling old schwinn's, super dave ... PS use those socks that your dryer ate one of to rub,buff,scrub dust,dab,polish,clean,wipe,wrap,soak, or just put a bar of soap in and hit your self over your head. one. dont paint an old toy. two.if you have to, call a radiator shop for ten bucks they"ll dippit. and in two days itllbestripped use lots of oil when removing rust on crome use asharp razor blade carefully.just about everything uses petroleum in it so sample all had other cool and informitive stuff to tell ya but I,m tiered and they keep editing my ways of informing yall.missed ahole bunch of neto stuff... nunyaatbizdotqoum Subject: paint, Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 05:34 Entered by: didthatallready (nunyabizatdotqoume) Message: look man quuit Subject: well.. Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 09:32 Entered by: Steve's () Message: Well, maybe he is repeatin' himself a bit, but he does have some good advise in there! Subject: thanx steveo ,sorry to ALL !! Entered on: Jul 3, 1998 02:09 Entered by: DAVE (WVPRDS@AOL.COM) Message: when they say not to click twice. well yall see the results. oil dose tend to mess up your key boards so does breathing paint fumes. VERY PERSONAL APOLLOGIE TO ALL AT MENOTOMY FOR WAISTED SPACE!! but do have other resto clues as well will help if can.worked on bikes not computers.but as usual learning by screwing up. Subject: Schwinn Typhoon Entered on: Jul 7, 1998 17:25 Entered by: David (tomadj@msx.upmc.edu) Message: Hi there. I'm new to bike collecting and I'm looking for some advice on fixing up a black 1966 Schwinn Typhoon I just purchased. The bike is all original except for the tires and in very solid shape. The previous owner had carefully handpainted (I guess with housepaint) black paint over the bikes scratches and dings (very carefull not to paint the decals). This paint has faded and really looks bad on the bike. I have removed almost all of it and now the scratches in the original paint are apparent. There is no rust just the orange/red primer is showing. I know this bike is not a real collectors item now and I plan on riding it because I like it so much. I do not want to take away from any future value of the bike if it ever does become a collectors item. To get to my question..Will touching up the paint with some black enamal (or something) affect the bikes value, or should I just leave it alone. Any assistance here is greatly appreciated. Subject: RE: touchup Entered on: Jul 10, 1998 09:41 Entered by: kath () Message: I'd try a little touchup paint again - just on the deep scratches. Then keep the bike polished and clean it off after wet rides. Subject: Jamb Gun Entered on: Jul 31, 1998 01:48 Entered by: Jim W. (wilsnetc@ix.netcom.com) Message: There's a type of spray gun perfect for bikes. It falls between an airbrush and a regular spray gun. Body shop suppliers call it a jamb gun, because it's used to paint door jambs and interior metal areas. The Sears tool catalog calls it a touch-up gun. It uses lower pressure and has less overspray. Mechanically, it's similar to an airbrush, just bigger, with a lock-on aluminum cannister. Sears gets about $25 for them, but I've seen them elsewhere for $15. Subject: Powdercoating Entered on: Aug 8, 1998 05:30 Entered by: Bernard (bpaulsen@aol.com (not for much longer though)) Message: It's my first time in this section and I am very impressed especially with John B's paint techniques. You either want to do it "right" or you try to do it "cheap." Right and cheap is an oxymoron and I believe, given the choice between a mediocre or lousy job and no job at all, I'd take the original, rusted bike. That way, at least the next owner will have a good template for a correct paintjob. Having said that, I haven't found a single response to "powdercoating," something that was brought up as a question a few weeks ago. I personally am as much against powdercoating frames as I am against clearcoating, primarily, because it is not original and an overrestored bike with a paintjob like liquid glass might be a good concourse winner but I personally prefer to do it exactly the way it was done decades ago. But back to powdercoating which primarily applies to frames and rims. I've done it before and I even colorsanded (1500 grit paper) the powdercoat and polished it by hand so that it really doesn't look like powdercoat anymore, but I am interested in the experts oppinion here. Subject: Entered on: Aug 9, 1998 17:06 Entered by: David H. () Message: Why can't I find any cool old bikes at yard sales, etc.? Every one I stop at just has old Huffy 3-speeds I live in Minnesota. Subject: What exactly is powdercoating? Entered on: Aug 14, 1998 08:49 Entered by: Phil () Message: Probably a dumb question, but what is the difference between powder coating and regular spray painting? How is powder coating applied? Thanks Subject: Stripping paint, de-rusting and paint preparation Entered on: Aug 21, 1998 10:13 Entered by: Fred (REDL944@AOL.COM) Message: For anything other than house paint, aircraft paint stripper is far superior to ordinary strippers found in hardware or paint stores. It makes short work of even modern 2 part, baked on paint. If the part e.g., a frame is rusted, I use emory cloth to mechanically remove heavy rust and then use Naval Jelly or its equivalent. For light rust, skip the emory cloth. I paint on the jelly and let it set over night and repeat as many times as necessary. A good scrubdown with a Brillo pad will remove all the residual rust remover. Usually, a part will acquire a light haze of rust immediately after the de-rustin and scrubdown. Metal Prep remove the rust haze and etch he part for good paint adhesion. The paint stripper and Metal Prep can be purchased at any automotive paint supply store. Try it, you'll like it Subject: Removing spray paint to get to original Entered on: Aug 27, 1998 23:34 Entered by: John (thud92666@aol.com) Message: OK, I was ten and I decided to repaint my '72 Sting-Ray (1st restoration); what did I know? How can I remove it without destroying the original epidermus below? Will "Goof-off" work? Subject: To remove your spraypaint Entered on: Aug 31, 1998 10:08 Entered by: PW () Message: Try softening the paint with paint stripper. Then use lightt steel wool or a rough cloth. This usually works pretty well. The can-applied spray paint doesn't resist the stripper as well as the factory-applied paint. |
| Subject: Removing paint with wire brush Entered on: Sep 3, 1998 03:53 Entered by: Ed (Fencemendr@aol.com) Message: DON'T DO IT, unless you want to end up sanding and puttying after you've finished breathing all that potentially harmful dust you've stirred up. These guys know what they're talking about as far as removal of paint is concerned. The spray laquer in cans is becoming more and more the best choice for painting also. In my neck of the woods it is hard to find an auto body shop that will use anything besides urethane and I'm sure that when I do locate one the cost will be astronomical. I think the urethane would be a good choice for clear-coating though. I've had that problem with soft and chipping paint before too. Its all due to applying too heavy a coat. Many light coats and sanding between each will yield the best results and since laquer goes on thinner anyway it is the obvious choice. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area. Those fumes can be murder! Thanks to all with questions and answers alike. Subject: My take on powdercoat Entered on: Sep 5, 1998 12:22 Entered by: John (johnB) Message: Powdercoating is actually what it sounds like. A polyester powder is sprayed onto hot metal, resulting in a tough, but not very smooth finish. My mountain bike has a powdercoat finish, and it's been through hell and back with very few nicks. The real problem is that powdercoats don't level themselves well like an enamel does. I suppose the idea of color sanding with 1500 grit wet-or-dry paper would work, I may try that sometime. Powdercoats used to be available in solid colors only, but I hear they are doing metallics and pearls now. "One word, my boy: Plastics!" Subject: My 2 cents on it all Entered on: Sep 9, 1998 09:32 Entered by: BikeTuna () Message: Hey there is some excellent information in here. Nice job JohnB et al. One thing I'd like to add is this: I agree that it is better to stick with an original paint bike, and clean up the paint, than to repaint it. But sometimes you can find a repainted bike that is way discounted in price because it does not have original paint. Sometimes it is a good idea to buy one of these low priced bikes and do a full blown resto. Have some fun and make some money. Subject: STRIPPING PAINT Entered on: Sep 11, 1998 15:52 Entered by: SCARLETT () Message: Here is a tip for anyone who needs to remove 1-several layers of paint. Recently I discovered that "Jasco" paint stripper(available at HOME DEPOT) works awesome on removing paint. I am currently restoring an old Western Flyer bicycle, and I drenched the bike with this stuff. It doesn't damage the metal, and it works almost instantly. You don't even need a wire brush to scape the old paint off.So anyone about to pay some shop to sandblast their bike, is just plain stupid. Subject: decal removal Entered on: Sep 14, 1998 16:46 Entered by: stoney (stevesr@tricountyi.net) Message: i just purchased a nice old roadmaster, but it has some decals on the tank that do not belong there, how do i remove them without destroying the paint. Subject: RE: Decal Removal Entered on: Sep 21, 1998 09:31 Entered by: Matt () Message: Spray some WD-40 on the decal, wipe overspray off of the paint. Use steel wool to "score" the decals, so the WD-40 will soak in. Repeat this a few times, being careful not to let the WD-40 stay in contact with the paint for too long. Eventually the decal and glue will desolve an wipe off. Subject: Aluminum Rims Entered on: Sep 23, 1998 17:13 Entered by: Mike (dyno83@hotmail.com) Message: Sorry.. This does not have anything to do with paint,But i am wondering how to clean up alunmin rims so they look like chrome? Subject: Aluminum polishing Entered on: Sep 25, 1998 08:56 Entered by: kath () Message: You might find some info under the "Wheels" topic. But also I just noticed a discussion of this under the "BMX" topic this morning Subject: Pictures! Entered on: Sep 28, 1998 19:27 Entered by: johnB (johnburt@mailexcite.com) Message: If you'd like to see photos of three of the bikes I've repainted go to: http://members.tripod.com/'JBurtner/index-6.html Subject: Excellent work Entered on: Oct 6, 1998 08:44 Entered by: TomO () Message: I'd suggest you all hop over there and look at John's 'before and after' pictures. Subject: Tape removal Entered on: Oct 9, 1998 15:30 Entered by: DavidH. () Message: What is the best way to remove old reflective tape and old bicycle licenses without damaging the paint? THANKS for any help. Subject: yup... john seems to be pretty much correct... Entered on: Oct 12, 1998 18:46 Entered by: paddlefoot (grizden@hotmail.com) Message: yup... john b is absolutely correct. First of all, do checK out his site, its pretty amazing. and second, powdercoating is exactly what he says. My dads bike is powdercoated and the only visible problem ever encontered with it's finish was when my bianchi fell againts it and scraped some celeste paint off it. it wiped right off too. Its really tough. powder coating is strong enough to take paint off another bike... without chemicals... without the mess... hey! the next kind of paint remover! Subject: RE: Reflective tape removal Entered on: Oct 13, 1998 08:59 Entered by: kath () Message: This works for all kinds of stickers, tape, etc....... First scratch the tape with steel wool . Then dap on a common solvent like brake fluid or WD-40. Let it sit for a minute, and them start rubbing it off with a stick, piece of wood, your fingernail, whatever. Keep doing this and the sticker will disolve and come off, and your paint will be fine. Don't let the solvent sit too long on the paint. Subject: Decals, removal and resurrection Entered on: Oct 21, 1998 23:32 Entered by: Fred (fredhaj@aol.com) Message: I have had pretty good luck using (very carefully) a heat gun on decals. As with tape over paint you want to keep, pick up an edge and pull it back on itself very slowly. I removed several decals from my CCM this way and then scanned them into my PC for repair. Printed on sticky back Avery label paper makes a pretty good decal. Since this type of medium is not plastic, you will need to clear coat over the decals. Subject: Salvaging original paint Entered on: Nov 28, 1998 09:50 Entered by: Dave (highnanih@aol.com) Message: I'm in the process of "restorifying" my wife's '63 Schwinn middleweight. The bike will be used for trail riding in the beautiful Colorado mts. The original paint still has a nice shine over most areas of the bike. Unfortunately, it has numerous deep scratches and pits. Some are beginning to rust but none have started to bubble yet. My question is how do I clean, polish, & preserve the paint? I'm considering coating the rust spots with some naval jelly & then rubbing entire bike down with rubbing compound. And finally clear coating the bike to seal the damaged areas & to provide protection against expected future damage. I am a total amatuer in this area & would appreciate any input or suggestions. Thanks! Subject: Paint Primer Entered on: Dec 14, 1998 17:10 Entered by: Dan G () Message: What effect does the color of primer (black/gray/red-brown) have on the finish coats? Especially if painting a dark color? I understand why one would use different color primers when sanding so you can identify high spots, etc. Thanks Subject: Hello????? Entered on: Dec 15, 1998 11:15 Entered by: Dave (highnanih@aol.com) Message: Since there has only been one post to this board besides both of mine since Oct.21st, I assume there must be a more active board somewhere else? Someone want to clue me in? I'd hate to think I"m the only one working on a winter project who needs a tip or two! Subject: Original Paint Entered on: Dec 26, 1998 11:41 Entered by: Michael (feck@webtv.net) Message: I have a 1900's bicycle with original paint. The pinstriping and decals are all there. However, because of dirt or just age they are barely visible. Any information on how to bring out the original paint without destroying anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Michael Subject: Nickel vs Chrome Plating Entered on: Dec 26, 1998 13:41 Entered by: Scott (jsmaloney@earthlink.net) Message: Since I haven't seen anything specifically related to chrome or nickel plating in this site, I'll try here. I am in the process of researching some old parts I have from a track bike I think was built between 1910 and 1920 in Europe. Does anyone know the history of chrome and nickel plating to tell me whether my parts should be nickel or chrome plated for an authentic restoration? Subject: Partial repaint/lettering Entered on: Dec 30, 1998 13:05 Entered by: Andy () Message: I am in the process of restoring a 1974 Raleigh International. The paint overall is pretty good, but the top tube is problematic. It looks like it has been oversprayed in places, so the color is a couple of shades darker. Should I attempt to fix this by just having the top tube repainted, or is there something I can do to fix this without repainting? Also, does anyone know how the "International" was originally applied? It looks like a silkscreen application, rather than a decal. This would need to be redone as well. Advice? Subject: Stella; Restore or forget it? Entered on: Jan 1, 1999 14:28 Entered by: Vince (vmcglone@yahoo.com) Message: Can someone help please. I am up on the fence about my 1977 Stella frame. I painted this frame once before as young and dunb man. Therefore all decals are destroyed. My questions are: Can I, should I, try to find decals, headbadge etc. to do a restoration? Or, should I paint again and do an upgrade that includes braze-ons and all that good stuff? Is this bike worth a restoration? Subject: Pinstriping Entered on: Jan 2, 1999 13:47 Entered by: Tim (Coolcar59) Message: Hi, reading the suggestions about pinstriping reminded me of a tool I once saw in the Eastwood Tool catalog. It was a standard type pinstriper, but had a bent brace on it, so it could ride in a long grooved magnet. Kinda hard to explain. You would place this long magmet in a straight line just above where you want the stripe, and run the tool along the magnet, and get a perfect even stripe! If anyone wants info on this, email me and I'll give you the phone number of Eastwood. Tim Subject: How do I go about re-painting? Entered on: Jan 7, 1999 14:20 Entered by: Marisa (nonarules@aol.com) Message: Hello. I have a question for you all. How does one go about re-painting a bike? I know nothing on the subject, and I do not have the money to spend on getting it professionally done. Is it an easy process? Im repainting it for myself, not to boost a bikes worth. Any advise would help. Thanks Subject: paint type, decals, masking Entered on: Jan 26, 1999 17:41 Entered by: Tim (Coolcar59) Message: Hi, Can anyone tell me the pluses and minuses of all the different types of paint? I am restoring a blue 48 Schwinn Autocycle standard (non-cantileaver frame). I bought it in primer with no sign of original paint, but I do have a nos rack in dark blue. I need to match the colour for the frame & fenders, and I need to decide what type of paint to use. I don't mind lots of sanding and buffing, and since it snows here until about mid march, I can wait for Acrylic Laquer to cure. I want to show and ride the bike, but only gently. I am trying to keep it close to original. I also need advise on masking. I went and bought the best masking tape I could find, but I still can't get a razor sharp line. Theres always a bit of piant seeping under, even when I really push on it. Any suggestions? Lastly, I have a '47 Schwinn that needs striping and trim. I need to redo the complicated 3-piece pattern on the 3 frame tubes just aft the headtube. It looks like the pattern in Evolution #2 pg. 136, bottom. Do those come in decals, and if not, how do I replicate them, theres almost nothing left on my bike to match from. Thank you very much JohnB for you paint instructions, So far they have been great. Thanks Tim Subject: PAINT TYPE / MASKING Entered on: Jan 27, 1999 23:28 Entered by: DON (XR771429CJ) Message: I am new to restoring vintage bicycles but have been restoring vintage automobiles and pedal cars for 20 years and as you know there are many different types of paints and paint suplliers. My recommendation for the hobbyist who does not have all the professional equipment is to find an automotive paint supllier that has the capability of mixing any color that they have a paint code on and loading it into an aerosol spray can for you. not all paint stores have this capability, the one by me is a Dupont paint supplier. You can get these made up in both acrylic lacquer & acrylic enamel. Ialso recommend making a visit to your local automotive paint store to learn about paint compatibilities, not all paints and primers can be used together. As far as masking tapes there is a product made by 3M called "FINE LINE" masking tape, this is a mylar tape that comes in a variety of widths and is pretty good for leaving a sharp paint line when removed. Happy painting!!! Subject: SANDBLASTING VS. CHEMICAL STRIPPING Entered on: Jan 27, 1999 23:57 Entered by: DON (XR771429CJ@aol.com) Message: If you are using chemical strippers to remove paint from frames I recommend that you wash the frame real good. If any is left down in any nook or cranny it can eat back thru your new paint job. I still prefer glass bead blasting or if you want to pay the extra, plastic media blasting is the best. I puchased a cabinet blaster & have been using glass bead media with great success. Subject: Painting, masking, striping etc. Entered on: Feb 3, 1999 03:04 Entered by: Fred (fredhaj@aol.com) Message: There have been several good replies lately on these topics and I would just like to add my thoughts. Painting is like love; it can break your heart but is so good when you get it right. The only way to learn is to jump in with both feet but start out with something less than a valuable classic. Masking is a painstaking part of painting. An earlier posting mentioned fine line tape. Great stuff that comes in different widths. For small radius work use 1/16 inch wide and follow up with 1/8th or wider, then the wide stuff. Striping: If you are going for authenticity and the original was brushed on you only have two choices, a striping sword(a special type brush) or a wheel striper as mentioned in a previous note. Forget trying to hand stripe it yourself. Hire a pro who does hot rods. The wheel only works on fairly straight lines and large radii curves; again hire the pro. For a rider, ordinary automotive striping tape is great and can even be painted to match special colors. I use it a lot and when clearcoated is more durable than paint. Subject: 1905 vintage swiss army bicycle Entered on: Feb 4, 1999 00:52 Entered by: george (turbodog74@aol.com) Message: how (without repainting) can I prevent rust on this bike frame? (esp. places where paint has been rubbed off?) Subject: 1939-40 Monark 5-bar, paint scheme Entered on: Feb 10, 1999 17:18 Entered by: jim (cstodolka@aol.com) Message: i'm trying to figure out what the design is on this bike. all the paint is gone on mine. i finally have a picture of it. please e-mail me if you have any info. thank you, jim Subject: To prevent rust on that 1905 bike Entered on: Feb 11, 1999 09:29 Entered by: flubber () Message: Always keep it well waxed. Subject: painting a bike Entered on: Feb 18, 1999 08:58 Entered by: todd (seidelts@hotmail.com) Message: I asm looking to paint or restore an old bike that I came upon but don't know what to do. Does anyone have any suggestions, (ie, how to clean up the old paint if I keep the old paint, and if I want to repaint it what do I need to do before I paint it and what type of paint/ Any and all suggestions are welcome, thank you. Subject: paint on metal Entered on: Mar 7, 1999 21:32 Entered by: NOEL (n.turner@student.canberra.edu.au) Message: Im currently researching the properties of paint on various painted metal surfaces. What I would like to know is if any people who are conducting restoration are having any problems that may require further research of the materials. Subject: 60 Special Columbia...? Entered on: Mar 17, 1999 17:43 Entered by: Bill (TX_bikeRyder@webtv.net) Message: I have a Columbia bicycle with a 1971 bicycle license on it from Deluth. So I know it's that old --but I think the "60" Special---written on the chain guard...means it's a 1960 model...I wonder if I'm Right...?? Help me--thanks Subject: 1967 Flying-O Express Entered on: Apr 18, 1999 21:10 Entered by: Beth (Harma55@aol.com) Message: I bought a 1967 Flying-O Express recently at a yard sale for $15. The bike is in good shape, but is painted red, chrome included. I would like to paint it back to the original color. I would welcome any information anyone has about this bike such as: manufacturer, where to get decals, where to get a headlight and bell for the handle bars. Also, I'm not sure about the original color, I believe it was pink or purple. Thanks for any information anyone can give. Subject: Decals Entered on: Jun 3, 1999 15:02 Entered by: Brian (bswanb@runestone.net) Message: I'm thinking about restoring my 1969 Schwinn Stingray and I want to locate all needed parts before I start. Does anyone know where I might find orignial or repo decals? Subject: Decals Entered on: Jun 4, 1999 08:33 Entered by: chuck () Message: Sometimes your local Schwinn shop will have old decals laying around. It's worth a shot! Subject: headbadge removal Entered on: Jun 17, 1999 00:43 Entered by: Danno (danno@digitalpassage.com) Message: I'm about to repaint my mid-weight texas star. It has anice head badge and I don't want to mess it up does any one have any good methods for removing a head badge ? I tried to chisle out the rivits from the inside of the head tube but this didn't do the trick . I'm not going to paint until I get the badge off so please hurry my paitance is wearing thin and I'm afraid I might do something stupid,and I don't want to have to post another letter on the "stupid things page" thanks for any help Danno! Subject: Sandblasting & Painting my Stingray Entered on: Jun 20, 1999 11:12 Entered by: Sam (s_orleans@hotmail.com) Message: I'm getting my Stingray frame to be sandblasted and painted by professionals because I'm new to bike restoring and this is my first frame. I'm going to make it into a lowrider, so I don't really mind about the original decals or paint. However, the company told me I had to supply my own paint. What kind of paint should I use if they're going to paint it? Automotive laquer? What works best in this situation? Subject: get paint from schwinn Entered on: Jul 2, 1999 01:14 Entered by: joe () Message: schwinn is make old sting rays again they have the paint i have a 1963 lemon sting ray i had to get touch up paint they have it Subject: Schwinn Streamliner Entered on: Jul 6, 1999 17:33 Entered by: Jose (Jose013@aol.com) Message: I have a Schwinn that i want to repaint, its blue and creme and i was wondering how i would go about putting the exact patterns on the bike? Subject: Pin stripe Entered on: Jul 10, 1999 00:42 Entered by: Fred (fredhaj@aol.com) Message: Have you ever wanted pin striping in a particular color and couln't find it? We're talking automotive plastic tape striping now. I have had great success in painting pin stripe with Duplicolor auto paint in spray cans. I put a few convenient lengths of tape, with the protective backing still intact, on a piece of cardboard using straight pins to hold it down. And then spray away. I use white tape and no more paint than necessary. Too much and it will not be flexible enough for tight bends. I always clear coat my jobs after all the striping decals etc. are in place. I have used this technique on two toned bikes where I wanted the striping to match one of the colors. Try it. Fred Subject: Andy's Raleigh International Entered on: Jul 10, 1999 05:06 Entered by: Darrin (darrin@pacificcoast.net) Message: Hey Andy from Dec. 30/99. I have a '78 International frame that I want to talk about. Please reply if you get this. Subject: Entered on: Jul 13, 1999 20:29 Entered by: Mark () Message: Help... Need to have a picture of a decal for the tanks on a 1948 Murrey Ohio "Mercury" Bicycle. I Have the bike repainted but the decal of the Mercury is badly worn off. I have a idea on how the word is to look but the word ends in a wing (like a bird wing with feathers). I need a picture to get the correct look. PLEASE HELP....ANYBODY... Subject: Where to get Bead Blasting done (in MD) Entered on: Jul 28, 1999 12:25 Entered by: John (jirvine@bellatlantic.net) Message: If anyone knows where I can take parts to be beadblasted in the Baltimore, MD area, please email me. I am restoring a Lambretta TV175 motor scooter. Thanks for the help. Subject: restoring slik chik Entered on: Jul 29, 1999 15:43 Entered by: Dave (jallen1@wt.net) Message: Recently came across a nice early to mid seventies slik chick, and would like to freshen it up for my daughter. The paint is bright pink and the stickers are worn. Also needs new grips. Any idea where I might be able to find these parts in the Austin/San Antonio area. Any help would be great. Thanks - Dave Subject: Repaint Entered on: Aug 15, 1999 19:31 Entered by: Jen (jenwrld78@aol.com) Message: I recently purchased a mountain bike for a small amount of money, and would like to repaint it. I don't know much about painting. Can anyone tell me the best way to go about painting this bike. Subject: Masking Entered on: Aug 16, 1999 10:29 Entered by: Ken C (kcobb@bspmlaw.com) Message: I am interested in painting a Schwinn tank in two colors. The dividing line between the colors is a scalloped edge. How do I (1) mask a curved edge for the painting, and (2) how do I avoid a raised edge next to the masking line after the spray painting? Subject: decals Entered on: Aug 17, 1999 12:31 Entered by: dave () Message: I am cleaning up an older bike and the slightest washing is removing the color from the decals. Is there any remedy for this? I would rather not clean it than remove a decal. Thanks! Subject: Sears Spaceliner Paint Entered on: Sep 13, 1999 19:02 Entered by: Mike (mikestonemike@netscape.net) Message: Does anybody know where to get paint to match a red Sears Spaceliner? I've heard "Candy Apple Red" Ya, ya, ya... now let's get serious. It seems like the bike had a silver primer or paint underneath and then a transparent red was expertly coated on top of that. This process is near impossible to reconstruct. Any suggestions? Mike Subject: RE: Spaceline Paint Entered on: Sep 14, 1999 08:57 Entered by: BGSchwinn () Message: Bring a painted section of the bike to a car repair shop. They'll be able to match it. Subject: Candy Apple Paint Entered on: Sep 18, 1999 11:11 Entered by: johnB (johnburt@excite.com) Message: Pete from Hyperformance Rays has candy paints in spray cans. It would be a Schwinn candy red, but... Hyperformance Rays 602-961-0643 Subject: 1966 stingray fastback coppertone Entered on: Sep 23, 1999 14:28 Entered by: Bill (bill_lofland@unicomp.net) Message: I am restoring a 1966 stingray fastback. It is in pretty good shape but I would like to restore the color or consider repainting it? Your thoughts. Subject: Eagle bike Entered on: Sep 24, 1999 22:12 Entered by: Chris (jcn@snet.net) Message: I have an "Eagle" women's bicycle, c. 1905-10, with wooden wheels, "Indian Roadster" 28-in. Schrader type tires, and a single wooden rear fender. All metal parts are functional, with bits of chrome and paint left. No decals that I can detect. I understand about re-painting, but is there any preservative/sealant that can be used so that you don't get rust all over you whenever you touch it? Subject: Coppi decals Entered on: Sep 29, 1999 23:30 Entered by: Jon (afs@blakes.com) Message: Hi! I have an older (pre-masciaghi I think) Coppi racer that has some bends in the top and down tubes. I want to get them straightened, repainted, etc., but I am worried about finding replacement decals. Any ideas? |
| Subject: Restore? Replace? Recover? Entered on: Jul 18, 1997 10:00 Entered by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles Message: You'd like to have a clean, original saddle on your bike. But what if you don't have one? Subject: Saddles Entered on: Jul 25, 1997 15:21 Entered by: JimB Message: >>You'd like to have a clean, original saddle on your bike. But what if you don't have one? You try to clean up the one you have and if it's too far gone, you call Menotomyto see if they have a good used one. Saddles are one of the most difficultbicycle parts to restore. If it can be restores, I generally clean it withLexoil cleaner and let it soak for days with copius amounts of Lexoil leather conditioner applied and reapplied. Once the leather is conditioned suitable, Iuse leather stain (black or brown) to restore the color of the leather. The metal underneath can generally be touched up with black auto touchup paint.If the metal is too far gone, there is a great chance the leather is gone too.Jim Subject: Sting-Ray seat Entered on: Aug 1, 1997 00:13 Entered by: Jim Message: I would like to find out if/or how i can clean the seat i have for a Sting-Ray.The problem is,is that it has rust stains on it from sitting under something that had rusted. Subject: RE: Sting-Ray seat Entered on: Aug 1, 1997 09:22 Entered by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles Message: Auto polishing compound can remove rust stains on a saddle. Subject: Small rips or holes in Vinyl saddles Entered on: Aug 1, 1997 09:24 Entered by: Menotomy VIntage Bicycles Message: Small holes, cuts and rips in vinyl saddles can be repaired using a glue gun. (the type of gun which melts clear or colored glue).This keeps the problem area from growing, and blends it in, too. It is also a cheap tool to purchase. Subject: What is better? Entered on: Aug 14, 1997 07:37 Entered by: jj Message: What do you all think is better: a ripped original saddle or a new reproduction saddle? What will be better for the bike's value? Subject: What is better? Entered on: Aug 18, 1997 11:54 Entered by: JimB Message: It depends on how original the rest of the bike is. A slightly ripped original saddle on a bike that is all original is acceptable. If the bike has been repainted/rechromed/customized, then I would opt for the new saddle. Subject: New Brooks Saddles? Entered on: Sep 16, 1997 10:29 Entered by: Chris Message: Any good sources for new Brooks saddleshere in the US? The Brits seem to lovethe B66, but all I've seen in catalogsis the Team Professional, which looks toopainful for a street bike...... Subject: RE: Brooks saddles Entered on: Sep 18, 1997 08:29 Entered by: jj Message: Menotomy used to carry B72s and B66s on their parts page, but they aren't there anymore.. ? Subject: Sting-Ray seat material Entered on: Sep 18, 1997 08:30 Entered by: jj Message: Anyone know where I can get Sting-Ray seat material? Looking for the sparkle/glitter style in different colors. Subject: RE: Sting-Ray seat material Entered on: Sep 18, 1997 09:09 Entered by: JimB Message: I would suggest stopping in an upholstery shop that does boats and motorcycles. Subject: Brook B66 Saddles Entered on: Sep 22, 1997 08:49 Entered by: JimB Message: In preparing for a restoration, I ran across a source for Brooks saddles in the U.S. -- http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris_special.html Subject: Brooks Sources Entered on: Sep 24, 1997 15:04 Entered by: Chris Message: Thanks to all for your tips on Brooks saddles. I've uncovered two more: RivendellBicycle Works (www.veloworks.com/rivendell/) and Wallingford Bicycle Parts (www.wallbike.com)......Chris Subject: Schwinn "S" seats Entered on: Sep 29, 1997 09:00 Entered by: Jodi Message: Does anyone know for how long Schwinn used the "S" seats on their bikes? Subject: Schwinn 'S' seats Entered on: Oct 6, 1997 08:49 Entered by: ChrisE Message: I'd guess.. From 1957 to 1970 Subject: Schwinn "S" Seats Entered on: Oct 10, 1997 15:34 Entered by: Mary Message: I have a 1973 yellow Schwinn Pixie with the "S" seat. Subject: banana seat deterioration Entered on: Oct 15, 1997 15:22 Entered by: Don Message: Why are so many Sting-Ray/Krates for sale or trade listed by there owners as having missing banana seats or deteriorated seats compare to other model bikes that are considered collectables or vintage? the musclebike is a relatively young bike for collectors to need so many replacment banana seats Subject: RE: banana seat deterioration Entered on: Oct 15, 1997 15:48 Entered by: JimB Message: Banana seat covers made in the 1960's were made from a type of plastic called "Polyvinyl Chloride" or "PVC" as many people know it. PVC is a very stiff plastic, but if you add enough plasticizers (small organic molecules), PVC will become quite flexible up to the consistency of rubber. The problem is over time, the plasticizers leach out and the PVC gradually turns stiffer. UV light from the sun will add to this problem by crosslinking chains of PVC molecules, making the plastic stiffer and more yellow in color. On a cool morning or if the seat is beat on by a typical teenage boy, the now brittle PVC cracks. This cracking could happen as soon as 3 years from the manufacture date. As a boy in the 60's, I remember really beating on my banana seat bike. I had to replace the seat more than once because it cracked or broke. Today, there are much better materials for seats, such as polyurethane, that will not yellow or turn brittle with age and sun exposure. Be sure to ask for polyurethane when you get them recovered. Subject: The Banana Seat Graveyard Entered on: Oct 21, 1997 23:54 Entered by: JohnB Message: I know why so many Sting-Rays are missing seats; I'm a guilty party. We took them off to make BMX bikes! Yipes! The hottest item back then was the injection molded, all plastic Suzuki seat. You had to pull the cover and padding off to be really racy. A Tange Cr-Mo fork, Ashtabula cranks {LONG}, And a pair of black, braced handlebars and you were set! Just throw those uncool stock Sting-Ray parts in the garbage; Nobody will ever want them... Subject: Phanto Saddle Entered on: Oct 23, 1997 12:42 Entered by: David H Message: I have a good condition original Black Phantm. The seat is really ripped up. Should I have it recovered or buy a Schwinn reproduction and save the original as is. Who is a good source for recovering this saddle and how much should it cost. Subject: RE: Phantom Saddle Entered on: Oct 23, 1997 14:30 Entered by: JimB Message: Definitely restore the old one if you want to maintain the value of your Phantom. There are firms out there that specialize in restoring the types of seats on Phantoms, but I don't know who they are off-hand. Subject: Restoring Brooks Leather Saddles Entered on: Oct 23, 1997 14:36 Entered by: JimB Message: I have a number of nice older Brooks saddles that are showing signs of age and water damage. I would like to restore them instead of buying later vintage Brooks saddles. Does anyone have any experience restoring them, especially restoring the leather? Subject: Restoring Brooks Entered on: Oct 23, 1997 16:37 Entered by: David H. Message: Try pouring lexol or glove oil on the leather top & bottom and let it soak in for several days. Then use Brooks Proofide to condition it. If the leather has torn I don't know any way to repair it. I have several that have ripped at the rivets due to lack of care by previous owners. If anyone knows of someone who recovers Brooks let me know. I am also still interested in someone who does a quality recover on phantom seats and how much it should cost. Subject: Brooks resto Entered on: Oct 23, 1997 16:40 Entered by: DavidH Message: I have also found shoe polish will temporarrily re colr a brooks Subject: Entered on: Oct 23, 1997 16:44 Entered by: DavidH Message: I also have a vinyl cruiser saddle which the previous owner had put a foam cover on. The foam deteriated and stuck to the vinyl. This left stains after I cleaned off the foam.\ Any cleaning suggestions??? Subject: Brooks Restoration Entered on: Oct 24, 1997 08:19 Entered by: JimB Message: I have been using the Lexoil approach. Thanks for the tip on using Lexoil on the inside. That makes good sense. On one saddle I have, the water has lifted the grain so it's not smooth anymore. Could a shoe repair place fix that or should I live with it? Subject: RE: Discolored vinyl cruiser saddle Entered on: Oct 24, 1997 08:21 Entered by: JimB Message: I'm afraid you will have to re-color the saddle to get rid of the discoloration. Go to an auto parts store and investigate the plastic stains available for PVC plastic. Subject: brooks seats Entered on: Oct 26, 1997 22:23 Entered by: joe Message: try saddle soap it should work Subject: I dunno about shoe polish.. Entered on: Oct 27, 1997 08:56 Entered by: Pintobean Message: I've used shoe polish on saddles and ended up with it on my shorts. It's not mean to be 'polished' by a heated butt! Really, think about it. A shoe's surface isn't subjected to rubbing and pressure unless you are buffing it, and look at the color of your buff cloth after buffing a leather shoe! Subject: Brooks Saddles Entered on: Nov 5, 1997 16:43 Entered by: johnB Message: I've been working on an old [1972] brooks I put on my cruiser. The Lexol inside and out is a must. After I buffed the Lexol out, I used neutral shoe polish. The surface is not completely black like new, but I think that is part of the character of any good leather article. Also, supposedly the reason riding shorts are black is so when the dye/stain rubbed off the saddles, the mess would not be visible on your butt! The neutral shoe polish has stopped the black from coming off [or maybe there is just no more TO come off]. Subject: Leather saddle prep Entered on: Nov 7, 1997 09:57 Entered by: Philsh Message: Try a horse outfitting shop (what are they really called?). They have lots of leather treatment products. Pricey, though! Subject: RE: horse outfitting shop Entered on: Nov 7, 1997 14:59 Entered by: JimB Message: They are called "Tack Shops" for those who want to search them out on the web. Subject: Banana seats Entered on: Nov 9, 1997 11:02 Entered by: Chris Message: Looking for banana seats for offbrand 60s & 70s musc bikes.Any leads would be appreciated.Thanks Chris Subject: Banana seat cover Entered on: Nov 15, 1997 21:30 Entered by: David Message: The Banana seat cover on my 1972 Apple Krate keeps pulling out from the sides, I`ve taking the seat off the bike an tucked the cover back under the seat pan with a small putty-knife and used a punch an hammer on those little holes in the sides of the seat pan that I think are to hold the cover in place, but it still keeps pulling out. the seat is perfect otherwise, HELP! Subject: Banana seat cover Entered on: Nov 15, 1997 21:08 Entered by: David Message: The Banana seat cover on my 1972 Apple Krate keeps pulling out from the sides, I`ve taking the seat off the bike an tucked the cover back under the seat pan with a small putty-knife and used a punch an hammer on those little holes in the sides of the seat pan that I think are to hold the cover in place, but it still keeps pulling out. the seat is perfect otherwise, HELP! Subject: Loose seat cover Entered on: Nov 19, 1997 11:34 Entered by: philsh Message: Open up the pan again and put a bunch of epoxy on the cover's edge. Then put it back together and re-punch. Subject: 1970 orange krate seat Entered on: Dec 3, 1997 19:32 Entered by: Kelly Message: i just bought a 1970 orange krate. what color should the seat be? i have a new seat cover which came with the bicycle. secondly, is the stripe on the seat centered in the rear of the seat & runs to the front right or is it off to the right in the rear also? help please!!! thanks :) Subject: Krate seat material Entered on: Dec 4, 1997 08:11 Entered by: kath Message: Kelly, the color for a 1970 should be orange sparkle. The front stripe should trail off to the right on the front of the seat and be dead center in the rear. You can see a picture of a (worn) Orange Krate seat at the "Old Maps/Pix" link at the top of this page. Subject: Krate seat stripe Entered on: Dec 4, 1997 14:18 Entered by: johnB Message: Kath, I hate to disagree with you after such a nice compliment in the 'paint' area, but Krate seat stripes are off-center in the rear as well as the front. Looking at the seat from the front, the right edge of the stripe should be just about centered. Check the Pete seats at :members.aol.com/hyperrays Subject: Controversy, cool! Entered on: Dec 5, 1997 08:53 Entered by: jj Message: Kath and JohnB, I dunno who is right for sure, and I don't have a Krate to look at (heck I can barely afford tubes for my messenger bike). But if I look at the pictures of Pete's seats (http://members.aol.com/hyperrays/page5.html) and the picture on Menotomy's site (http://users.aol.com/menotomy/disp/ok1_a.gif), I'd have to say that the stripe is off-center in the front (as you both say), and it _IS_ centered in the rear. The mystery deepens... Subject: Uh oh Entered on: Dec 5, 1997 10:24 Entered by: kath Message: JJ, thanks for trying to see it my way, but you know what, JohnB is right. If I look closely at all the pictures, I do see that the EDGE of the stripe is at the center in the rear. So, sorry for the incorrect info, and JohnB, thanks for good info, and JJ, well - open your eyes, man! (woman?) [kidding!] Subject: Krate seats again Entered on: Dec 5, 1997 13:27 Entered by: johnB Message: I have a slight advantage on you guys. My Orange Krate is sitting about two feet away from me at this moment. Subject: MY APPLE KRATE SEAT Entered on: Dec 5, 1997 17:27 Entered by: DAVE Message: I agree my 70 apple krate seat has the stripe off to the right in the front of the seat, and centered in the rear of the seat. Subject: Rusted Cores! Entered on: Dec 14, 1997 10:05 Entered by: Donald Message: Hi: I have a few sattels that had rotten vinel so I striped them down to the core. The cors are rusted bad with a cupple small rust holes on each. Are these worth reapostering? Thank You: Donald Subject: rusted saddle cores Entered on: Dec 16, 1997 09:12 Entered by: jj Message: If they are so rusted that they have holes, then they probably are only worth tossing out. They collar welds are probably busted or ready to break. (sorry Donald - my opinion only) Now *I* on the other hand have about 1/2 dozen good Sting-Ray saddle cores. How much are they worth? I've hung on to them only because I never throw anything away. Subject: Rusted Sattle Cores Entered on: Dec 16, 1997 17:21 Entered by: Donald Message: Thanks ii. Don`t know much about sattles so I would not know what your`s would be worth. I well hold onto mine. I might youse them for pats in the futere. Thanks again, Donald Subject: German WWII bike Entered on: Dec 18, 1997 00:30 Entered by: FRANK Message: HI , I have a 1939 MIELE werke bicycle w/ leather LEFA seat . Unfortunately it has a 4" tear up the side. Short of making a new one out of leather does any one know where I might be able to locate one. And or parts . Any help will be greatly appreiciated. THANKS, FRANK Subject: How far Entered on: Dec 23, 1997 08:45 Entered by: jj () Message: How far can you ride on a banana seat bike before the edges of the saddle cut into your butt? After about 5 miles, I'm incapacitated. Subject: How far on a banana seat Entered on: Dec 30, 1997 08:56 Entered by: PeterW (longtruck@hotmail.com) Message: JJ, if you usuall ride an MTB or road saddle, the banana seat will take some getting used to You just have to ride your muscle bike more often. Subject: identifing saddle Entered on: Jan 12, 1998 22:54 Entered by: Troy (troyboys@searnet.com) Message: I just purchased a saddle, and someone told me it came off of a Phatom. Can anyone help me on identifing my saddle????? Subject: identifing saddle Entered on: Jan 14, 1998 09:03 Entered by: kath () Message: Descibe it here, and see if any of us can help. Better still, can you post a picture somewhere? Subject: re: how far? Entered on: Jan 22, 1998 15:11 Entered by: Ken (hinman@syrres.com) Message: jj Though looking back I can't imagine that it was very comfortable, the first bike I ever rode any distance at all was a 5-speed Fastback. I was probably 14 when I got it, and I used to ride it to my grandparent's and back (17 miles each way) on a pretty regular schedule. I don't think I ever tried anything much more than 40 miles at a time on that bike; then I got my shiny new Columbia 27" 10-speed and let my kid brother have his way with the Sting-Ray. I probably should see if the Schwinn is still in the back of my sister's garage, before her boys get a hold of it!! Subject: what color seat? Entered on: Feb 2, 1998 02:45 Entered by: greg (ggroth9@xsite.net) Message: I rebuilt an old schwinn racer about 3 years ago, after stripping off the house paint, I discovered it was white, not black. I would guess it's vintage to be around '58 to '61. Did thhis bike come with the s saddle? If so, what was the color scheme? black with a white nose and S, or possibly white with a black nose and S. Thanks for any help you can throw my way. Subject: RE: Schwinn Racer saddle Entered on: Feb 4, 1998 08:58 Entered by: kath () Message: All of the Racer's I've seen have had solid color saddles (black) and NO "S" on them. Subject: Racer Saddle Entered on: Feb 4, 1998 16:09 Entered by: Jim Viita () Message: DeLuxe Racers had S seats and regualar ones had black seats. Subject: Racer saddles Entered on: Feb 6, 1998 02:20 Entered by: Greg (ggroth9@xsite.net) Message: I have a girl's model - same vintage, The bike is red and the saddle is red with a white nose and S. From the condition of the seat, I am assuming it is the correct saddle, anyone know for certain? By the way, how do I determine the difference between a deluxe and standard racer? The decals were painted over. Just so I'm sure we're on the same page, these bikes are both three-speeds, S-5 rims. Thank you for any help. Subject: Schwinn's reproduction banana seats Entered on: Feb 27, 1998 08:18 Entered by: jj () Message: Has anyone seen Schwinn's reproduction banana seats in person? How do they compare to the original seats? Subject: Cleaning saddles Entered on: Jun 14, 1998 00:33 Entered by: WesK () Message: I have found that Westley's White Bleach, availiable at Wal-Mart, works well at cleaning the whole bike. Just spray on the seat/frame/hubs, then rinse off with the spray gun on your garden hose. But BE CAREFUL!!!! This stuff will take decals & pinstripes off, but gets white or silver seats, handgrips, and whitewalls sparkling! Subject: Brooks Flare Entered on: Jul 2, 1998 12:54 Entered by: TimH (timh@market1.com) Message: I've a couple of old B-72s that haven't been properly cared for by previous owners. This has caused the bottom edges of the leather to flare outward so that the leather will chaffe. Has anyone found a solution to this problem short of punching holes in the leather and running something through the holes to bring the leather back to original shape? Subject: RE: Brooks leather saddles Entered on: Jul 10, 1998 09:43 Entered by: kath () Message: This works great: soak the saddle in a bucket of water for a couple days. THen take is out and wrap rope around it in order to bring the sides in. Then soak for a couple more days. Then dry in sun. When you remove the rope, the saddle will stay in it's new shape. After than, keep it oiled and supple. Subject: Saddle for Rudge Highwheel Entered on: Nov 18, 1998 11:39 Entered by: Steven (S.Maasland@ibm.net) Message: I have already posted a message on the Highwheel discussion page, but since it pertains specifically to a saddle, i'll repeat here. I have a Rudge 55" racing highwheel that I love riding. The bike is however blocked in my garage until I get a new saddle. Until it broke (leather fatigue), I had a 1920's brooks-type leather saddle that had been jury-rigged (non original). Given that I need to replace the saddle, I would like to replace with a more authentic one that better reflects the production period of the bike (late 1870's or early 1880's) All I can say about the original saddle is that it was affixed in two places: with a transversal hole through the reinforcement lug between the steer tube and the frame tube and a second reinforced hole about 15" down the frame tube. If you know of somebody who has an original saddle or can make me a copy, please let me know. Thanks Subject: RE Phantom saddle Entered on: Dec 13, 1998 14:54 Entered by: carl () Message: I have a phantom saddle with no cover. How do I properly restore it. All the chrome is rusty as well as the underpart. Subject: Sting Ray Seat Repair Entered on: Jan 24, 1999 01:41 Entered by: Jeff (mludwig@kusd.kusd.edu) Message: Lookin for someone to repair couple small pinky nail size holes in early 'Ray seat.Not worried about color.Have been told holes need to be filled + re-grained.Anyone provide that service?? Your help is greatly appreciated! Thank You Subject: BSA leather seat Entered on: Jan 28, 1999 04:45 Entered by: Craig (ch8595@aol.com) Message: I now know how to treat it from previous messages.Does anyone know where I can purchase the hollow rivets and tool to install them that hold the leather to the seat frame.Also its a BSA model 40 seat off of a folding paratrooper.Were these only used on the military bikes.I dont know that much about BSA and dont know the years they were produced Subject: Saddle Entered on: Feb 2, 1999 18:23 Entered by: justin (jscheller@hra.com) Message: I need a saddle for a Colombia Light Roadster. Subject: Corvette seat wanted Entered on: Feb 9, 1999 18:01 Entered by: Wayne Harrah (harrah@ia.net) Message: Where does a guy/gal go to find an older "S" type seat for a early 60's Corvette? It need not be perfect, but boy, I would like to get something 'close' to original looking. I'm a blue-collar guy, so I don't really want to pay a jillion dollars. Any ideas? Thanks. Buzz Harrah Subject: Post a wanted ad Entered on: Feb 11, 1999 09:32 Entered by: flubber () Message: Buzz, post a wanted ad under the "wanted" topic here. Lots of people scan that section Subject: LadyFair Entered on: Mar 31, 1999 14:17 Entered by: Bruce () Message: What years where the LadtFairs Made? I'm looking at buying one for $25.00 Seems to all there. What should I look for to be sure?? Subject: SEAT WANTED Entered on: Apr 23, 1999 23:00 Entered by: Kevin (irishhiker@aol.com) Message: SEAT WANTED: Decent, used leather Brooks Model B-66 seat for 3-speed Raleigh Tourist. Please E-mail with description and price. Thanks. Subject: Brooks saddles Entered on: Jun 11, 1999 11:59 Entered by: Clarence (none) Message: When it comes to leather seats, replace it with origonal equipment! Brooks is still around and making most everything, including a very large range of replacement parts! You can get a whole new seat or fix up the old one! I wish other items were the same way! |
| Saddle info about, not paint |
| EASY. FIND OUT WHAT THE SADDLE IS AND WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE. THEN TRY AND CONTACT THE ORIGINAL MAKERS FOR ANOTHR ONE. OTHERWISE IDENTIFY THE FRAME, GET A REPLACEMENT OR SIMILAR ONE, MAKE NEW PADDING IF NECESSARY (FOAM WORKS) AND HAVE IT RECOVERED BY A LEATHERSHOP. |
| Subject: Wheels: Cleanup? Relace? Entered on: Jul 17, 1997 13:23 Entered by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles Message: How do you clean up your wheels? When and how do you relace? How do you "true" a wheel |