If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| A friend of mine is restoring his pea picker and apple Krates. He is looking for new old stock nuts and bolts. Does anyone know where he can find them? A website or address would be most appreciated. |
| Try Hyperrays@aol.com |
| Thanks PW! Much appreciated! |
| i just bought a 1971 schwinn "suburban" at a thrift store for $8. Please tell me it's worth at least that. It had quite a bit of rust that cleaned off surprisingly well. Any tips on where to get schwinn brown touch-up paint. Thanks! |
| Last week I bought a suburban for $9.00. Great shape, good seat. A couple of weeks ago I paid $4 for a Suburban. Some thrift stores will put a price of $79 on a very clean Varsity, Breeze, or Suburban. After a period of time the price continues to drop below $30 and it eventually sells. I wish they were worth a lot! I use them for parts. I hate to do that but it is a good source of original parts. |
| I just purchased an authenticated original Penny Farthing from an antique dealer here in Johannesburg, South Africa (I'm a Canadian living here for 3 years). The original rear tire has been replaced with a thick rubber hose, and the bike has been painted an ungodly orange. How do I go about sourcing a replacement tire (original if possible), and what should I do to strip and repaint the bike without damaging the original front tire and/or seat? Thanks in advance, Michael |
| Hello brother in the North living down south. First I want to let you know that I belong to the international Wheelman association. We are dedicated to the restoration and preservation of antique bikes, especially the Penny Farthing type. There are a couple of thing you should know. The likelyhood of you finding a replacement original tire is remote. Most wheelmen have a source for replacement rubber that is shaped in the same fashion as the originals. It is usually in tube form either solid or hollow depending on the type of bike it is on. Next there is a great book on restoring these bikes and I am going to take a guess at it because I do not have my copy with me right now. It is called "Restoring Vintage bicycles" and the author I believe is Don Adams. We can buy these in our book stores here. It has a green cover with a gold framed picture of a hi-wheel bike on the front. It will give you all sorts of tips on restoring these beauties. Finally you may want to consider joining the Wheelmen as the membership fee is low and they publish several times a year a newsletter that talks to the hobby. It also has a classified area where you can post for sale and wanted ads, you get one ad for free. Next and best, you would be able to qualify for use of their library which is probably the most comprehensive on this subject complete with photos and catalogs. If you want more information let me know. You will not find the Wheelmen on the NET as they have not yet warmed up to the computer in their quest to preserve nostalgia. Good luck, I purchased my first PF this year and I am just learning to ride. It is a different world altogether and requires a different skill set then I am used to being a roadie/mountain biker. |
| Hi, You can find the wheelman organization at www.thewheelmen.org and there are links to the Burgwardt Bicycle Museum- Pedaling History (email at Bicyclemus@aol.com ) that sell Don Adams's bicycle restoration book. You can order tire material in many sizes from Dick Hammel, 970 Ray St., Huntington IN.,46750-1246, Phone 219-356-5414 He sells and installs the hard rubber tires on all type of highwheel or safety bikes. hope this helps |
| 'Ray' and 'Don' are right. joiing The Wheelmen is a good idea. the book by Adams is invaluable. but most of all try to get in touch with collectors in your neighbourhood (museums, ads, etc.) they will be more exprienced and there can be more than a few surprises you will ecnounter along the way!! probably a handier book for you would be "restoring antique bicycles: hints for the inexperienced" by english authors. these are the most experienced men you can find (more than 500 years put together)!! the rear tire can be replaced easily, you just need to specify size and required amount. then try either the Czeck builder of replicas Mesiczeck or try 'Edlee antique bicycles'. they should have tires in tock readily available. removing new paint while preserving the old is a tricky business. try to get hepl from a paint shop in your area. you need maybe a soft sandcloth, paint remover, a lot of cloth and even more patience. what you want to do is loosen maybe two microns of paint at a time untill you get to the original layer. this may take you maybe fifty times, so don't get too selfconfident!! if the original paint cannot be restored, at least find out what colour it was!! |
| i have an old schwinn collegiate that i've put back together from discarded parts.the only rear wheel i could find is a sturmey-archer 3 speed and i'm wondering if i could use the rim and spokes and convert to a 5 speed.does anyone make a 5 speed (derailleur) hub that fits these bikes anymore? |
| It's usually not recommended to re-use rims, and it's never a good idea to re-use spokes. (Besides, there is a very slim chance that the spokes will fit the rim and hub. It's a game of millimeters and theres lots of combinations out there.) I could be wrong, but I thought Collegiates had 27" wheels. If that's the case, a 27" wheel with a 5-speed hub If that's the case, new and used wheels of that size can be found all over the place. I appreciate the spirit of a guy who is willing to piece together a bike. Best of luck. |
| Another opinion: Schwinn rims are built to last and when the spokes are removed you can clean that thing so it will look like new! They really clean up. I have never had a problem with used spokes. But, check the rim for cracks (you will not find any) or dents (perhaps). You can tell the spoke condition when they are unscrewed. You will have to dish the wheel which may mean two sizes of spokes. You will need to go freewheel or freehub. Old freewheels are cheap but not as many choices in cog sizes. You may need a freewheel tool. All this could cost $ and time. I strongly suggest you find another Schwinn bike with a rear wheel that fits. This way you only have to clean it, mount it, and use it. Use the derailer and shifter from the other bike since they have worked together. Use a ten speed chain. But what will you do with the other bike???? Is that the next project? Use the derailer hanger also! Zip tie the cable and you are there! |
| Bike Chains: Sometimes a new chain will not work well with old cogs! Save the old chain from the second bike in case you notice the chain skips or jumps under power. An old chain, best of all, the chain that was there may work best. |
| sorry i forgot to mention that the bike takes 26" wheels which seem much harder to find with a 5 speed freewheel than 27". |
| I converted a Schwinn coaster brake lightweight to a fixed gear bike. I swapped the original Schwinn 26 x 1 3/8 wheels for 26 x 1 3/8 wheels off of a (kinda junky) Columbia 10-speed. I think that's what you should look for in a set of wheels. Note that the Schwinn front wheel will fit a different type of tire (even though they both say 26 x 1 3/8) If you can swap wheels, try to use both of the donor bike's wheels. |
| Very true about the Schwinn rims taking special 26x1 3/8 tires. They have the name of the rim stamped on them! New Idea: Why not buy a 26 inch mountain bike wheel with a freewheel or freehub (your choice). The rims are about the same width as the old rims on the bike. Buy a "nimbus" mountain bike tire which is a street tire 26 X 1.50. It is an anti-flat tire with kevlar. I have seen the kids put 1.75 mountain bike tires on Schwinn 10 speeds (mountain bike rims) so I am sure it would fit. With a new freehub you could run a 9speed cassette and have a very wide gear range! You could use a friction shifter with it also. However the chain would cost $20. |
| I've just bought a 1962 Mercian lightweight with good paint, except that someone has brush painted the top tube a different colour, any suggestions on removing this paint without damaging the original finish? |
| Experiment with solvents like brake fluid or acetone or paint stripper. Don't leave it on more than a second or two. Try it on a hidden place like the bottom of the top tube. Brushed on paint should come off easily. |
| I need help in indentifying an old bike found in the estate of a deceased relative. It is in rather poor shape but seems to have all the parts, including wheels and tires (tubes)although everything is disassembled. I posted some pictures at the following URLs. I was wondering, besides the identity, if the bike was worth restoration (if possible). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. http://www.wenet.net/'cia/bicycle/pic1.jpg http://www.wenet.net/'cia/bicycle/pic2.jpg http://www.wenet.net/'cia/bicycle/pic3.jpg http://www.wenet.net/'cia/bicycle/pic4.jpg http://www.wenet.net/'cia/bicycle/pic5.jpg |
| I just noticed that the URL's seem to be incorrect. The tilda ' (little squiggly line usually next to the number 1 key) should be immediately before cia. http://www.wenet.net/'cia/bicycle/pic1.jpg ect... |
| I owned a new red scrambler when I was young and was planning to buy one and restore it.But before I buy one I was wanting to know what year mine was.It had the cantilever frame and a round chain gaurd that bolted onto the crank sproket.Please post or email me with your ideas.Thanks. |
| The "Stat and Feature" database shows one - a 1977 |
| Hi, I have a tandem from Triumph that I estimate to be of a pre-WWII vintage (although I am not certain). I have worked professionally on bicycles for over ten years and have not seen any that are similar in drive train and I am curious as to the year it was manufactured and its relative value. It has a completely lugged frame, front and rear drum brakes, front generator mount, one original Brooks saddle (with the markings "FDU" and "OX" stamped on the underside, original paint with the Triumph of Coventry emblem painted on the head tube, a fixed two-cog derailleur, a three speed freewheel that is moved by an actuater arm that lays between the first and the second cog on the freewheel, the word Triumph painted on the rear seat tube, serial number (236109) stamped on lug directly under front seat on the left ahnd side, Trivelox three speed shifter mounted on front, top tube, original pedals, cotter pin crank shafts, bottom brackets with grease fittings, hubs with grease fittings, 40 rear and 32 front spoked rims, original paint. Any information that will help me to date this tandem will be greatly appreciated. I know that many manufacturers include in the serial number the date it was made, perhaps this is a 1923 tandem? Thanks for the help and look forward to some insight. |
| I've seen that derailleur setup on English bikes of the 1940s. It might be an aftermarket setup. Put your question under the English Roadster topic. |
| thanks for replying. I posted a message on the roadster discussion page but have gotten no bites. Can you elaborate on what you know about the derailleur. Please feel free to respond on the roadster message dated 11/22/99. |
| What do I do first? Still trying to determine the value and game plan for this bike. It is a hawthrone in great shape, tank, dual headlamp, might be a three speed from the looks of the rear hub. The first tag is from 68 but could be older. |
| 1. Order replacement parts for visible problems. 2. Remove wheels, fenders, rack, etc. to get to frame. 3. Pull crank and bottom bracket bearings to clean and repack. Clean Chain ring. Clean chain. 4. Remove handlebar stem. Clean, lube headset (remove fork). Lube stem and install. 5. Remove seat post and seat. Clean seat. Clean post, polish. Lube and install. 6. With all the parts off the frame this makes it easy to Clean, detail, and wax the frame to get a shiny frame. Polish chrome pieces. 7. The wheels may need to be taken apart. Clean/replace spokes and true wheel. Clean and pack wheel bearings. Clean 3 speed hub - don't look in there. Make sure you hear good clicks! 8. Mount tires. Let them sit overnight to make sure no snakebite happens. 9. Put it all together. Clean chain/replace, adjust tension and wheel positions. 10. Get a chair. Sit down and look at how good it looks! That is the order I tend to go in. It works for me! I want to get a frame that I can clean and detail and then do the individual parts. Lubricate and install. Good luck! 10 |
| How can the red, green, pink, and blue Schwinn seats with the white "S" on them be restored in a correct way? Are the colors stained with shoe stain? Is the white painted (it almost looks like it)? What is the best way to restore these seats to their near new appearance? |
| Use autobody compound or some other abrasive to clean it. Then polish it and that's about all you can do. |
| has ANYONE heard of bendix parts??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? |
| Sorry, friend, that this is not an answer, but the same question as yours. My bike shop told me they could not replace the old Bendix coaster brake shoes for the R82 Bendix from my Western Flyer. The shoes are very small by modern standards. Anybody know of a supply source? |
| i have a schwinn speedster 1961 i think as far as rust on the paint anything ive tried so far to remove it also dulls the paint from fine steel wool to quick-glo and a few other things in between would it be worth it to strip off all paint and have it repainted i dont even know what its worth and would anyone know where to get parts for something like this |
| If the rust is light, try wd40 on a rag (First) then if that does not work use super fine steel wool very gently. Avoid decals and screening. Speedsters are among the more attractive Schwinn lightweights but they are not popular collectables at this time (i.e. not worth the cost of restoration). You could probably find a frame with good paint or complete bike for parts for less than a paintjob. Try the Schwinn discussion areas for parts. |
| One thing about Speedsters. They are NOT all lightweights. I've seen middleweight Speedsters, and those do have very strong collectible value. They look a lot like a Schwinn Corvette middleweight, but with less goodies on them. I don't know when Schwinn turned the Speedster from a middleweight to a lightweight, but it would be good to know the tire size on this bike. |
| Most important in terms of: BEAUTY/STYLE INNOVATION PERFORMANCE IMPACT ON SOCIETY PRACTICAL TRANSPORTATION Go back to our home page (oldroads.com) to cast your vote. |
| need to know how to remove rust from parts? what works for me is that you sandpaper it with a 1200 grit then steel wool it. and at the end wax it with MOTHERS metal cleaner. it sould shine shine shine shine. from, Al |
| "Quick-Glo" "Chrome Cleaner, Rust Remover" Manufactured by Quick-Way Brands, Yakima, Wa 98908. This is the finest rust remover I have found - better than Mothers - and I purchase it at my favorite Bike Shop. I put a small amount of it on a cloth and it rubs the rust off. For stubborn areas I would use a little dab on extra fine steel wool and rub the area. A BRASS BRUSH WITH A HANDLE is also great for quick removal in hard to get places. MOTSENBOCKER'S LIFT OFF 2 ("New patented product 3 cleaners in 1.") is better than heat or anything else to remove decals, stickers, or the glue residue they leave behind. Very Flammable! One quick spray on a cloth and rub the area. Repeat. Repeat again with a new portion of cloth each time as the glue transfers to the cloth. On chrome use a shot of LIFT OFF on steel wool, followed by a cloth to wipe the glue off. Sold at HomeDepot (Calif.) or good paint stores! Better than gooof offf!!!! Try it, you will like it! |
| I gotta DISAGREE about the steel wool. Use BRONZE wool. It won't scratch the chrome. It also ends up being cheaper than steel wool because it doesn't fall apart like steel wool. You can find it in any store right next to the steel wool. |
| what bike shop do go to? it sound like a nice material for cleaning! From,Al |
| Big Al: I have been looking for bronze wool and I cannot find it. I have tried markets, hardware stores, and paint stores. Where should I look - I am in California. I agree that bronze wool would be much better! Does it come in grades like steel wool? |
| Very fine steel wool, a brush with brass bristles, and lots of WD-40. That stuff cuts through rust and grease in no time! Mark |
| Al, You can purchase Quick-Glo on the Web at www.quick-glo.com. |
| THANKS FOR THE NOTES ON WERE TO GET THIS STUFF AL |
| I can't find bronze wool in my hardware store either! The guy asked where I heard of it! I use 000 steel wool myself. |
| I just noticed on my red Schwinn Pixie that the word "Pixie" is written in a light "seafoam" sort of green and the Schwinn oval emblem (spelt wrong I'm sure) below the handle bars on the front fork is a corn yellow. Does this mean the emblem is not the original? I thought they would of had them match or be the same color. Neither on really matches red, but maybe that was what Schwinn did back then. If anybody knows one way or the other, please let me know. Thank you! |