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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| just found an old sears ted williams three speed tricycle and am going to try and restore it. Not sure where to start. the chrome piece on top of the forks where they connect to the frame looks to be gone and the cover piece on the back that covered the gear hub or transmission is cracked. is there anywhere to find old parts or replicas? |
| > I have a schwinn typhoon. i have two rear wheels, one with a bendix coaster brake, the other with a type IV or mark IV (I thought I knew the name but I cannot find one) I have cleanedand repacked/ rebuilt both and neither works very well. The type IV worked for a few weeks and then something went wrong so that if I back pedaled, it would lock up and start pedaling forward. The bendix feels numb when back peddaling and does not really sto the bike. The bendix wheel has a gear with a different tooth shape as well causing a creaking racket as I ride. So I would prefer to fix the type IV.I am looking for instructions on how to assemble them, I think I might have put grease where I should not have or put a part in backwards. Otherwise, I need a new wheel. any help you can give me would be appreciaed. Thanks, Dedalus Wainwright |
| Could you look for a complete mame on the coaster brake you are trying to use? The creaking noise can come from a chain that is too tight! Check to see if that is the problem. Rotate the pedals and see if the chain is tight a one spot. If so, adjust the chain again. |
| I am trying to restore my own 1960(?) Schwinn Tiger. Lots of rust and a few holes in the front fender. How can I repair these holes? This is all new to me. |
| It might be easiser and less expensive to just find some good used fenders |
| I agree, replacing is a lot easier than that sort of repair. If you feel you have to repair it, strip off all the paint and solder a piece of sheet brass slightly larger than the hole to the underside. Flow on solder, using a propane torch for heat. The solder should bulge above the fender surface. Dress the solder down with a file until it matches the surface contour. Then paint as usual. Much easier to replace the fender. |
| Does anyone know where I can find information on Bicycles used in the U.S. Military during World War II? I would like to find an appropriate bike to restore for use in reenactments. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
| From the Bicycle Museum of America's website... What the civilians bought... 1942 Columbia Victory Sports Tourist Columbia Manufacturing Company Westfield, Massachusetts The Victory bicycles were made throughout WWII by the Columbia Mfg. Co. During this time they were the only bicycle manufacturer that was legally allowed to make bicycles for domestic sale due to the War Powers Act. During this time the manufacturer was limited in the number of bicycles that they were allowed to make, so in order to purchase the bicycles you needed special stamps. ______________ and the GI's used... 1942 brought us the Huffman Civilian Transport models with simple diamond frames, no ornamentation and painted parts. Huffman and Westfield Mfg. were chosen to produce a GI bicycle. The standard balloon tire "Universal Military Bicycle" and women's military bike (M306) used standard interchangeable parts for both manufacturers. All bikes were painted olive drab and had a leather seat, small air pump, seat-mounted tool kit, coaster brake, handlebar bell, fenders, chainguard and Delta Winner front fender headlight. The bikes were used at every camp in the U.S. and most overseas facilities that were not at the front. By the 1950's most of the bikes had been sold for scrap and are hard to find these days. In 1943 civilians could qualify for a bike if they could show a "need" for one (either a Columbia or a Huffman). And, well... There you have it! |
| I still have my original 1953 Rudge Sports bicycle I bought with my paper route money and rode all over Long Island NY. It has since gone through a number of moves and gathered a lot of dust, however I would now like to restore it. Is there good sources for the decals, correct rubber reproduction parts and the origial tread Dunlop tires |
| Before you get carried away give the bike a thorough cleaning. Use Pledge and a copper scrubby pad on the chrome.Then polish with Solvol Autosol. Wash the paintwork and polish with auto polish/wax. Go easy around the decals. Do not use rubbing compound or steel wool. When you are all done and the bike is together it should look fine in spite of its age and wear. If the paint is black you can touch up rust spots with shoe polish. This is far easier and far better than a so called "total restoration" repaint etc. I doubt you will ever find decals. For tires your local bike shop can furnish the correct tires in a variety of models, probably Asian. I do not know of any source of Dunlops. |
| Sorry this info is a bit late but Rudge Sports decals are available at http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_AT_LLOYDS/decals.htm Lloyds are in England but ship worldwide, and have a huge range, particularly for British and classic bikes. |
| Sorry about the delayed reply but I've only just started reading through all the messages. You can get waterslide transfers for the Rudge Sports from H Lloyd Cycles in England. The downtube transfer costs £2.90 and other Rudge ones are about the same. P & P is £1 but probably a little more for overseas orders. Their website (very basic-don't be put off!) is www.ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_AT_LLOYDS/decals.htm I haven't dealt with the company but they're long-established and apparently very good. Most restoration companies in the UK use them. They do transfers for all sorts of bikes. Hope this helps. |
| Thanks for the helpful replies and comments. I am amazed to find out that there is a source for old Raleigh and Rudge decals since they are not as common as old Schwinn's and Columbia's etc. The bike is now cleaned up and I have begun to ride it again. In the longer term however, I would like to restore it or at least improve its appearance, since the bike (and I) got a few scrapes riding in the mid-1950's. Thanks again, I think that this is a very helpful forum. |
| Back in December 1997, johnB posted a very informative piece on his method of painting bicycle frames. Some readers have been looking for it in the archives. I saved it and have referred to it a few times, so I thought I would repost it. Thank you, Oldroads for maintaining this site for us collectors and restorers, and to johnB, who originally wrote this. Subject: Painting Techniques Entered on: Dec 3, 1997 13:17 Entered by: johnB Message: Steve, first of all, A bike is worth more with it's original paint. If it's that far gone, have a pro do it. A Five Star is a potentially valuable bike. If you do paint it, and botch the job, End of Disclaimer 1.Strip or sandblast.I have a good sandblaster near me with a light touch. Others have not been so lucky. I hate dealing with messy strippers that don't work. Wash with thinner and light prime. I have my blaster do this so the raw steel is not exposed to moisture very long. 2. Use a fine file to remove any high spots from chips, welds etc. 3. Hang the frame by putting a 12" dowel through the headtube. Tie a rope to the ends of the dowel so the headtube is just above eye level. Do this outside, in direct sunlight. Don't worry, lacquer dries fast. Spray a light coat [about 1/3 of an 11oz. can] of lacquer primer-filler. Get all the nooks and crannies first, then spin the frame 180 and get the spots you missed. 4. Wet sand with slightly soapy water and 320 grit Wetordry paper from 3M. This will show all the high spots. Be careful around edges. Don't sand through too much, but some steel will show at this stage. Fill low spots with Glazing putty [Small spots and scratches only]. Sand putty spots with 320. 5. Spray three coats of dark colored primer. This will take one full can. 6. Wet sand with 400 grit. Watch the edges, don't sand through there. You may sand through some remaining high spots- it's OK, you’re trying to level everything out, and you do that by sanding off the high spots and leaving primer in the low spots. 7. Three coats light gray primer. 8. Wet sand with 400 grit. Do not rub through anywhere. You will start to see the dark primer show through. That is your cue to stop sanding that spot. Don't miss it. You are trying to get to a satiny finish at this stage. There should be no sign of chips dings or low spots. If you see any imperfections at this point, BACK UP to step 7 and redo those areas. The quality of the paint job is being determined right now, so take your time. Step 9. Hang the frame and shoot 3 more coats of the light primer-filler. Wet sand this time with 600 grit. The surface should look like frosted glass. No imperfections should be visible. I like to wet sand with the frame in my lap [old jeans] and the sun over my shoulder. Sand a little, wipe with a soft rag, and watch the surface as it dries. You will be able to see imperfections jus when the surface is half dry. It helps to be at least part German at this point. 10. Time to paint. You'll need three 11 oz. cans of lacquer for the frame, More for accessories. Hang the frame by cutting a 2" piece of wire coat hanger and bend one end in a 'J'. Stick this in the seattube, and bend the other end over your hanging dowel. The frame will hang just about level. this will ensure you get plenty of paint where you need it, but it makes it harder to get to the nooks. Shoot three light coats of color. This should just about cover the primer. No runs or sags at this stage, please. 11. Light wet sand with 600 grit. A little rub through to the primer is OK, because you are going to shoot 12. Three more coats of color. 14. Two tone? Now is the time to mask off and shoot three coats of the second color. 3M Fineline plastic tape will give you a sharp edge, but it doesn't bend. You'll have to use regular masking tape for curves. 16. Wet sand with 1000 grit. Things should be looking good now, don't rub through! 17. Wet sand with 1500 grit. 18. Polish with No. 7 Polishing Compound. Use lots of water, this is not a wax and you're not to the final finish yet. A few streak sand smears are OK. 19. Apply any decals and pinstriping now. Give them time to set up before you 20. Wax. I like Meguiars. Use something with low or no abrasives. I do not use clearcoats, I think they look fake and plastic-y, but if you must, clearcoat before polishing. 21. Shoot the inside of all the frame tubes with J.P. Weigle's Framesaver rustproofer. 22. Clean up the mess the Framesaver just made all over your bike. 23. Take a fine round file and remove the paint from the inside edges of the headtube and bottom bracket. This is so the bearing cups don't chip the paint in these areas. Smear a little grease on the bare steel. It will be OK, really. 24. Now carefully assemble your bike and ride it. Lacquer is easy to repair, and by now, you're an expert! |
| id like to know how to remove the old paint of my 1971 schwinn sting ray. and does any one know of a chrome plater in pasadena or montebello californai. i appreciate it. please email me at mayorgaerick@hotmail.com |
| I just purchased a original Grey Ghost and the paint is only fair, it has alot of nicks ect.. on the frame. I really don't want to paint it,I just want to restore the original paint first. So my question is what is the best way to bring out the shine in the original paint. Thanks Kim |
| Wash it and polish with car wax. If it does not come up right away you may need to do it a second third or 4th time, as long as it keeps getting better. Go easy on the decals and lettering, they will damage easily. Avoid rubbing compound steel wool etc. they are not decessary and will do more harm than good. |
| Just an update on the Ghost paint repair. I removed all the parts off the bike and and cleaned it really well and boy the paint still looked really bad. So I started to wax the frame and when I was putting on the wax I noticed that alot of gray paint was comming off, all I could think of was great dummy you just screwed up what was left of the paint. Then I look at the frame really close and the original paint was still there. It turns out somebody had shot grey primer on some of the frame well 90% of the frame and the original paint was in not to bad of shape. Now all the primer grey paint is off the bike and now I am waxing it up and boy the paint really glows well. Thanks Kim |
| Hello, looking for information on a bicycle built for two, steerable from the rear.Forward location is convertable from men's to ladies via removable top tube.Forward seat tube rides slightly lower than rear handle bar stem/ top tube.Forward chain sprocket is 17 tooth, rear is 17 teeth- small and 31 teeth for large sprocket.Wheel assemb. are missing though front fork tubes are drilled and rear wheel stays are rear facing slots with adj. screws.Leather saddles have a single relief hole ontop , mounted on mono leaf spring bearing "Brooks" stamp toward front of saddle.Leather hand grips bear an end cap with large "B" logo with "Barnes" across the middle of the "B". Large "B" also shows up on the top of front fork tubes. Double frame tubes from front to rear crank sets. Pedals all metal "racing stlye".The bike was given to me by my 76 year old father in-law who remembered riding it as a small boy( belonged to his uncle ) seems to remember it was old then. If anyone could steer me in a direction where I might find some information on the make,year, model restoration tips I would be grateful for the assistance. thank you, Jon Hallcraftjon@aol.com |
| I purchased a bike called "Old Veteran" new from a German department store (Kaufhaus)back in 1979. The salesperson told me it was a replica of an old Dutch bike, and indeed I saw many like it in Amsterdam. It is in need of some TLC, having been stored for a long time. I've got a lot of good info from these pages, but I need a little advice on tuning/oiling/adjusting etc. The rear hub is marked "Torpedo Dreigang" and it has 28 inch wheels and rod/coaster brakes. It's lovely, big and black and curvy, with "patent leather" vinyl chain guard and rear fenders. Do I need to take the rear hub apart and clean it? How can I find out more about maintaining this bike? Thanks ... |
| You should never take a 3 speed hub apart. The only service they require is a little oil now and then. There should be a little plastic cap in the hub between the spokes. Carefully pry out the stopper and add 2 or 3 squirts of light motor oil from an oil can. Some prefer sewing machine oil. I have heard that 3 in 1 should not be used as it will gum up the mechanism. Does the front wheel hub have a metal clip that can be moved to expose an oil hole? If so give it some oil too. If not the hub can be taken apart and the bearings greased. Same goes for the crank axle, it has ball bearings but must be taken apart for service though some old timers had an oil fitting. The steering head bearings can be taken apart and greased. None of these things is too difficult if you have the right tools and know how to use them. Otherwise take it to a good bike shop. Be careful, there are a lot of so called mechanics who know nothing about the old models and will ruin your bike if they get the chance. Also some shops will keep your bike for 2 weeks oil the chain and charge you for a "tune up". Sheldon Brown's site (see links page on this site) has a lot of info on the English Raleigh roadsters which are generally similar to your bike. If you ever find any sites about vintage German, Dutch, or Canadian bikes I wish you would let me know. |
| I've been given a pennyfarthing as birthday present. Date unknown - but multiple narrow spokes. No tires - would it have had any? No original paint - rusty instead - but solid and sound. Now what? Do I rust cure? Do I repaint- if so what colour were they originally? I'd guess black but does anyone know any better? Do I leave it alone? Any tips/ suggestions gratefully received. |
| It should have some kind of tires. Those old hi-wheelers go for thousands of $ even in poor shape. Try asking your question in the "Hi-wheeler" topic |
| Don't do any painting or restoration until you talk to a high wheel bike expert. You can ruin the originality of a valuable antique and reduce its money value by hundreds of dollars, possibly more. |
| Great birthday present. Tires: measure the rim - how wide is it? this will give you an idea of the width of tire needed. then get in touch with either The Wheelmen or with (re)sellers of Mesichek bicycles - they can suply new ones. remember to indicate the size of the wheel outside edge of rim - outside edge of rim. rust: sand off as much as you can. then try to find a good car paint shop and tell them your problem - remind them that the wall thickness of your penny is probably no more than 1,7 mm. and that it needs to remain as thick s possible!!! (find R.Howe's book called 'Collecting and restoring antiuqe bicycles' - he gives a good review of the entire process) Bearings: leave them alone, find someone who knows about these things. These beaerings often differ significantly from the current types and desroying them would be a shame... a watchmaker should know what to do. spokes: try to take the wheel apaart as faar as possible. use oil (it is impossible to use too much) make sure that the remaining spokes ar still intact. then make the missing ones. rebuild the wheel, try to tension the spokes as little as possible!! by now you will have encountered several mayor problems. get in touch with me directly - i will help to get them solved. |
| I have 300 or so bicycles and parts for auction all NO RESERVE with the lowest opening bids. Balloon Schwinn, J.C. Higgins, Colson, Firestone, Elgin, Roadmaster and many more as well as 20" Krate, early and late Fastbacks, Manta Ray, Screamer, Huffy and many more. NOS parts lights, speedos, generator sets, tires, used schwinn parts. New Departure boxes with contents. Everything goes. For more info please email. Bicycles and parts at give away starting bids every item to be sold with NO RESERVE. Don't miss it. Thank you. Joe Rapoza |
| I have a couple of old Raleigh Internationals (circa 1975) that have been sitting in my shed for the last 15 years getting rusty and dirty. I have decided to restore these bikes. I think I am going to send them to Airglow Painting in Georgia - to be rechromed and repainted, new decals tec. Both bikes have rusty old clamp-on Campagnolo bottom-bracket derailleur cable guides. I priced replacements for the cable guides - but they cost more than having new cable guides brazed on. So, I think I may send the frames to Wildframe in Atlanta for the brazing, then have the frames shipped to Airglow for the rest of the work. I am probably going to have Wildframe braze on some water bottle bosses on the down tube, as well as some down-tube shifter bosses. Any thoughts on how this might affect the value of the frame? I know that collectors are sometimes real fussy about things like this. I have some pictures of one of the bikes on-line at: http://www.connel.com/biker/index.html |
| I own Pfeiffer Pframes, a frame painting, frame repair and restoration shop. The business is family owned and was established in 1984. We offer excellent prices and services on the restoration of your beloved frames. Check out our website http://www.pfeifferpframes.com For more information please contact me personally at the email address listed. References available. Thanks, Mary Pfeiffer |
| I have a 1950 Schwinn that is in really nice original condition. Someone has placed reflective tape on several parts of the bike. I have seen this on other old bikes. Is there a way to remove this reflective tape, without destroying the paint that is on the bike? |
| Try warming the tape with a hair dryer. It should soften and lift easier. Use paint thinner to remove the adhesive that's left. |
| I use Goofoff to remove adhesive from painted surfaces. You can find it in most auto part stores pretty cheap. It really comes in handy and doesn't damage paint. |
| want a cheap remedy to stuck on stuff? adhesive resins are either solvent borne or waterborne. all you have to do is figure which one you have. rub a little spit on the goo and if it starts to rub off, it's waterborne. so, clean it off with water and maybe a little rubbing alcohol (polar solvents). if it gums up and gets ever gooier, it's solvent borne. for solvent borne adhesive resin residue use some charcoal lighter fluid first (this is basically odorless mineral spirits). if that is not strong enough, try good old fashioned cigarette lighter fluid (which is basically VM&P Naptha). don't use anything stronger than this - it will remove almost any decal or sticker goo with a little work, and won't mar thermosetting paints. do not use aromatics like xylene or toluene, and never ever put "lacquer thinner" on anything painted unless you want to repaint it and cuss for hours on end. your friend, the paint chemist from alabama. |