If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I am Having a hard time finding any pictures of this clip on engine, does anyone have any information on this engine, or does anyone have one? John jonnycola@hotmail.com |
| Last week I rode my 1998 Cruiser Deluxe, which I haven't done for a while. I pressed the horn button, and it didn't blow. I took the tank apart, and to my disgust, the high-tech, new-age, $2 EACH Duracell batteries had leaked acid on the inside of the tank and horn unit. The acid turned to crystallized granules. After cleaning with steel wool and chrome polish, I found the acid had not done much damage- 1 spot where it had eaten through the chrome on the inside of the tank, and 1 spot through the cadmium plating on the horn frame. After cleaning the corrosion off the back of the batteries, the horn worked. To keep this from happening again, I got some anti-corrosion gel at Pep Boys, and coated the cleaned units with it. This is used on car battery terminals, and neutralizes the acid. I rubbed the gel all over the inside of the tank, and on the horn unit. I recommend that you do this to any light or horn you have working, and check/clean the batteries once a year. They do last over 2 years, so this is not something to do just when the batteries stop working. |
| My grandfather recently gave me a 1940ish Schwinn excelsior that he's had for almost 60 years. I want to restore it, but I've never restored a bike before. I want to do it right so as not to take away from the originality of the bike. Does anyone have any tips??? thanks. |
| It's usually best to leave the bike original. It's been said that a bike can be restored a thousand times, but it's only original once! I've restored plenty of bikes in the past, but now I prefer the original "patina" -- even if slightly worn. It shows the bike's true story. The nicks and scratches in the paint may evoke some fond memory of a long forgotten adventure. The rust shows the decades the machine has survived. Also, if the bike is not properly restored, it's value is less than if left alone. Usually, bicycle collectors value an original bike more than one that's been restored. Having said all this, I recommend a good cleaning of the bike First, I disassemble it completly. I derust and clean and polish every nut, bolt and spoke. I save as much of the paint as possible by using with a mixture of WD-40 and rubbing compound. If the painted metal parts are rather rusty, I first rub the surfaces with 000 steel or brass wool soaked in WD-40 (then the rubbing compound). If there is housepaint, I use a cheap paint remover and wipe off the repaint before it attacks the original finish. Timing is critical here. Work in small patches and take your time. The pin striping is the most difficult to save. Many times I retouch that when I'm done. Chrome and cad plated parts can be cleaned up with WD-40 and fine brass wool. If the rust is more extensive, it can be removed through electrolisis. Email me for more details. A bike cleaned up with this method would not have it's originallity taken away. If done properly, it's value would only increase. Hope this helps. |
| I agree with Steve,a good restration cost around $1500 by the time all the crome is replated and the frame pro.painted ,(do the fenders need rolling?)well you get the picture,it's a lot cheeper to clean(really gooood clean)first.Then take a look at your grandaddy bike,you might suprise yourself. |
| Bought a Columbia singlebar middleweight Sat. Looks very simular to the camelback in listed in the pictures. My question is does anyone know of how to remove the kickstand? Stand passes through the frame just behind the bottom bracket. There is a circular alloy cover the surrounds the hole on the left side of the frame. Stand comes out of the frame passes thru this alloy circle and then bends down to support bike.Alloy cover possibly threads on but I was looking for some info before I started dissassembly. Any help appreciated. Thanks |
| Well, I got the neck out of the fork and I can see the wedge, but it's not moving. I wanted to put some penetrating oil in from the bottom, but the fender screw is rusted tight(surprise, surprise). I'm thinking of twisting it off, drilling through the screw, and retapping the hole. Then I might be able to loosen the wedge from the bottom. Any other suggestions? Thanks |
| As long as you have the tools to do it, sounds like a solid plan. How is the integrity of the fork tube itself? Rust out? Bulges? Is it worth saving? That screw hole is 1/4-20. I'd say drill first, knock out the wedge, then tap. That way you don't ruin your thread job. Let us know how you make out on part II of the job! |
| Finally got the fender screw to snap off and then I drilled it out. Still can't budge the wedge. The tube is bulged where the wedge is stuck. It must be in at an angle and just won't come free. I thought about pounding it further into the tube and then I could get it back together. Let the next guy figure it out. :) |
| Success at last. It seemed like 1 tap in just the right spot and the wedge fell out. Thanks for the help. |
| I bet a lot of crap fell out too! |
| I am having trouble with the original kickstand on my restoration project 1956 Schwinn bicycle, I'm assuming that after 44 years the bike's internal kickstand parts have worn and the kickstand will not stay up when riding, Is there any way to tighten it or do something that will be a temporary fix until I can replace it? |
| Sounds like you got a weak spring,one of those ties would keep it up.(or tape)you might want to remove it,if so go to links to other vintage bicycles web sites,there you will find Bunch"0"Bikes this site tells how to remove the stand.then you might order a kick-stand (Maple Island has them)or get a used one off another bike--sam |
| I finally got the kickstand fixed, It turned out to be a worn kickstand pin, and the year is a 1955 not a 1956, My mistake. |
| I just aquired an old BF Goodrich Crusader, and was about to atempt my first ever bike restoration. I was just wondering what I should do about the logo/number's when i repaint this bike. Thanks. |
| I recently aquired a Columbia bike. I see that there is a serial number list, but I don't know where to find it. Can someone help me? |
| hit your back button and go to the top or bottom where it says serial number charts. easy as can be. |
| I just twisted off the stem bolt on an old bike. Any suggestions on removal before I drag out the really big hammer? I tried some Liquid Wrench and light tapping. How hard do I dare beat on the wedge? |
| Is the neck still in the forks? |
| Yes, the only thing to come out was the bolt. |
| Soak it with penetrating oil. If there is a fender screw hole on the bottom side, fill that up too and let it soak. Spray a bunch in the bolt hole up top. It helps to have a soft faced hammer. Even better to have a dead blow hammer. If you don't, use a block of wood between the hammer and the object you are stricking. If you can, turn the bike over and secure it some how. Take a few whacks at the bottom of the neck. Put a pipe or a prying item in the hole where the handle bars used to be and try twisting the neck free. Hopefully, after you get the neck out, the wedge will fall out. If not, find a long pointy item that you can put in the fender hole underneath to tap it out with. Let us know how you make out! |
| while the parts are soaking why don't you go to the hardware store and get a long bolt the same diameter but longer put it where the old one broke and hit it (hard).may be hard to do unless the old bolt broke at the wedge.still worth a try |
| Thanks for the help, I'll try these this weekend. |
| I have a 1961 Schwinn Panther 3 that I am restoring, and have no idea how to get the built-in kickstand back on! The shop that i had paint it removed the kickstand and didn't put it back on for me. Please help! |
| Don't feel like the lone ranger,I had the same problem,just go to the" LINKS " find Bunch of Bikes site. under restoration he tell just how to remove and install schwinn kick stands.( I used a big C clamp instead of pliars) that site sure saved the day for me! |
| I have a Huffy Sonic Flite that was my grandmere's bike. It is 2 tone blue & white. I need some parts and some clean up on it. I acutally ride it daily and would love a service shop in my area HB CA and/or any history or web links available. I can't find a thing on it..Anybody know what year my bike is? Thx |
| First DJ let me thank you for your post.It led me to a great site on huffy bikes and preservation too.I'm the local preservation officer for our county so not only do i like bikes I also like old houses,So a site that has both is GREAT!!! check out www.huffman.org this should at least be a good place for you to start. |
| Hi DJ, Try http://hometown.aol.com/teambike/ . Gary and his shop reside in Huntington Beach at the corner of Indianapolis and Newland. |
| It pains me when I come across a classic bike that has been poorly housepainted, so I thought I'd share with all of you some of my "secrets" in the hope that ,together,we can prevent this blasphemy in the future. First, clean the bike thoroughly. You don't want any contamination ruining your paint job. Cover the seat with an old baggie, or, if you're the handy type, actually REMOVE it. I think there is a nut that has to come off...but anyway.....get some latex paint on sale in your favorite color. Then, using a sponge brush , CAREFULLY paint the frame, brushing in ONE direction only please.Start at one end of the bike and work your way to the opposite end. Take special care not to paint over any reflectors (safety first!!!!)Don't forget the headbadge, lots of folks forget this.Once you can't read it, your done, that's a good rule of thumb. A smaller brush works best. Don't stop until the entire bike is covered. You haven't done your job if your arm isn't sore and there aren't paint globs on the tires. A heavy nap roller works well for spoke painting, but, in a pinch,I've used a broom. I like to use a contrasting color, but feel free to use your imagination.Remember, be creative!!! This paintjob is gonna last YEARS if ya do it right. It comforts me to think that some day...long after I'm gone ( knock wood), my paintjob will be delighting others when they find one of my creations at a garage sale, swap meet, etc. Feel free to contact me with any questions..I'm here to help!!!! |
| Thanks for all the useful information. I'd been thinking about ways of improving my pre-war Schwinns, but hadn't known how to go about it. I'll get started as soon as the paint store opens. I already have a broom. |
| Does anyone know if it is possible to somehow computer-match a color already on a frame? I just need some touch-up paint but it's sort of an unusual green. |
| Hiya dean, Yes, it IS possible for the folks at the auto-paint store to do a computer scan to come up with a color match.Call around and ask, but keep in mind that they need enough surface area to scan. Bike frames are difficult in that respect. Maybe having them do an "eye match" would be more accurate. Feel free to email me if ya need to |
| Does any do or Know someone who paints frames? I need a 1980 Sting painted. It is candy apple red and would like the same. Thanks |
| Find a body shop that is into custom cars or motorcycles they are more open to the idea of preserving what you want than just any old body shop most of the time they will be happy to help but might be a bit pricy too be sur they know your bike is a valuable collector not just some taiwan junk |
| I am trying to replace my circa 1972 Universal centerpull gum hoods. I thought the hard part would be finding the replacement hoods, but it turns out that installing them isn't easy either. I can't seem to disconnect the brake cable at the retainer in the hand mechanism, so I can't put the hood on. I'd rather not have to disconnect the cable at the caliper on the wheel, but that's the only way I can figure out. Anybody have any experience with Universal brakes or other ideas? Dean |