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Archived: Restoration Tips





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Restoring a '57 Hornet Deluxe posted by: Brian Englert on 1/25/2001 at 5:48:37 PM
Getting ready to restore a '57 Hornet Deluxe. Was wondering if anyone had some good detailed photos of this model that they could send to me. Especially when it comes to the two-tone paint schemes on the frame and fenders. Also I need to know what colors were available. If you do not have this information could you lead me to someone who does? I look forward to hearing from you.

Brian Englert
benglert@carolnet.com


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Restoring a '57 Hornet Deluxe posted by Joel on 1/26/2001 at 9:28:36 AM
Suggestions: There are loads of pictures of Hornets on the web. I am constantly copying photos to floppys for future reference. Try looking on EBAY, Bikeicons, here, Nostalgic.net, .... A search will surely find more sites.
Memory Lane and Maple Island Sales will have decals. A template for the rather complicated striping around the head tube can be easily made from the decal they sell. As for the color, does your bike have any original paint left? Maybe under old paint? On the steer tube of the fork? Inside the crank housing? Under the fenders? Are there traces of fender striping that can be measured?




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO PAINT A S-RAY FOR ME posted by: STEVEN on 1/24/2001 at 8:28:58 PM
IM LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO PAINT A S-RAY FOR ME AT A REASONABLE PRICE, I LIVE IN MICHIGAN,,,,,,,,


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO PAINT A S-RAY FOR ME posted by Jon on 1/25/2001 at 6:53:35 PM
In my opinion there are two things govern what constitutes a reasonable price for painting a bike. 1.-What kind of quality you want and 2.-How much preparation you are willing to do. Here is a road map to a good compromise............Take just the frame and fork to an auto machine shop or furniture stripper to have the old finish boiled off.(They may do it on the cheap side because bikes are not their usual line of business and they'll be happy to take your money) You could also have it sand blasted, but it's more time intensive and thus more money. Pickeling and priming can be done with products from any hardware store. Degrease with mild detergent; Phosphoric acid(wire wheel cleaner) wash; then a good water rinse and fast dry; followed by red oxide primer; followed by one or more coats of grey auto primer/sealer with wet sanding between coats(400 grit to start, 600 grit to finish). From this point the final finish will depend on how smooth you can make that primer and how much you are willing to pay the painter. As for the painter; A person who paints bikes for a living is going to cost more bucks than the auto body guy in town. Solicit a few collision shops in your area and ask if there is one who would be willing just to spray the finish coats for you. You have already done the prep work. I hope you find this helpful. Good Luck!

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO PAINT A S-RAY FOR ME posted by A freind on 1/26/2001 at 9:27:43 AM
Now Jon brought up some very good points on this process. But if I may add that people who deside to sand blast rather than use paint stripper, I find that the sand will pit the frame. In our local area of sand blasting business, they offer sand at different grit, and a better process I like is walnut shell blasting. Yes I said walnut shell blasting. This process only removes the paint, rust. Does not pit the frame. This way you don't have to load up on unnecssary primer to fill the damage that blasting leaves behind. When doing a Schwinn Sting-Ray frame try to restore with the same red oxcide color. Then once properly sanded, follow with the silver base used. Then apply your choice of color finish. Jon is right about the people who are quick to take your money. So do a little talking to the painter and see if he has a profoileo on hand. Make sure its his to. Talk to him on his break rather than him busy working. You get a better responce. Talk bikes with him, if he cuts you short on the subject, and doesn't add a personal expereince about his bike or just wants to talk money. Think about it for a while its your bike, you don't expect him to think its his, right". Drop your fork or show him some color you want him to match to. If you have a spinger, show him some thing on the frame that has factory paint. Beware for body shop color match charging. Yes mo" money. Get him to show you some color left over from a prior job. Once he does that, have him write you out a work order. This way he don't charge you for a whole qaurt of paint. If he does, ask him for your paint back. Now good luck to you!

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO PAINT A S-RAY FOR ME posted by Jon on 1/26/2001 at 7:29:20 PM
You're absolutely right about walnut shell blasting and I agree about finding a painter who shares your interest in bikes and matching the paint. However, I am a little confused about the term 'spinger'. Could you explain further? Thanks.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO PAINT A S-RAY FOR ME posted by A freind on 1/27/2001 at 2:35:30 PM
Excuse my spelling, I ment to write springer front end.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   reproducing decals posted by: Russell on 1/23/2001 at 7:53:44 PM
I'm currently aquiring a set of raleigh decals, one sheet has the pro, international and comp names and the other has all the stickers needed to do the rest of the frame. I plan on restoring an international and my friend plans to do a pro. Is there any way to reproduce the frame decals to do the pro. Also does anyone know anywhere to get decals for a team track frame from around 1979. Thanx for any help.





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Old sticker removal posted by: Brett on 1/7/2001 at 6:42:49 PM
I have a 1957 metallic blue Schwinn Tiger which I'm currently restoring. The paint is a 8/10 but the "Schwinn" decals are very worn and need to be replaced. Does anyone know how to safely remove the existing decals and old, discolored goo that currently surrounds them? Thank you very much for your help!


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Old sticker removal posted by Steve on 1/9/2001 at 4:35:29 AM
Wow! I just asked the same question, but not being all that familiar with this site, I posted it in the vintage lightweights discussion area (1/7/01). I received 3 excellent replies, and I thank those who responded.

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Old sticker removal posted by Brett on 1/9/2001 at 12:24:24 PM
Thanks Steve!! I guess I've got my work cut out for me!! Best of luck getting those stickers off!

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Old sticker removal posted by Dan on 2/2/2001 at 11:05:06 AM
This is not for decals that have become brittle, but for some decals, you can use this old trick. Clean the area real good, then spray clear paint (I always used Schwinn clear spray paint) right over the decal. Wait a half minute or so (dont let it dry) to soak into the decal. Wipe it off. Try this on a nasty old bike to see if it works first, but it usually does - and if the only alternative is strip / paint, then you havent really lost anything!




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   frame style posted by: Rick on 1/7/2001 at 5:15:37 PM
I have a 67 schwinn (originally Rams Horn), Five speed, that I'm repainting, refurbishing, gonna make it a rider, and I've noticed that the frame is different than most other schwinns, the seat stays stop at the the seat tube, and others continue down and connect to the bottom down tube from the head set, and this tube is curved down to the bottom bracket, why is it that there are two different styles of frames, and which one is more rare? if it is at all. Also I don't have the original handle bars or pedals and I have ordered fastback chain guard decals from Pete instead of Rams Horn due to the fact that the bars and pedals are expensive (the ones I've found)and I wasn't really trying to keep it all original. And when I'm done what kind of value am I looking at? thanks


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   frame style posted by Joel on 1/8/2001 at 9:11:59 AM
You have a Ramshorn Fastback. The Fastback frame is a camelback style and is different from cantilever framed Sting Rays. The Ramshorn model was made in 67-68 and (with correct parts) is a little more valuable than a regular Fastback.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   spaceliner posted by: bruce on 1/3/2001 at 9:56:22 PM
I have a set of sears spacliners, how can I date them,are they a bike woth restore eforts. One has the rear light assembly but no lens. Where would one find these parts?Any info would be greatfully recived.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   spaceliner posted by avanti_tomf@yahoo.com on 1/4/2001 at 5:32:21 AM
Sears Spaceliners were made by Murry Bicycles from 1964 to about 1968. There are at least an early version and a late version. The picture database on this site shows the early version. Notice there are standard and deluxe models of each version.

Spaceliners top out at about $325 for perfect bikes on Ebay. A new paint job with custom decals would cost $300, plus replating the chrome and the plastic parts. A total restoration would cost a lot more than $325.
Parts are sometimes on Ebay, but these are more likely found by going to swap meets, which can be looked at as added restoration cost or buying a mini vacation. The front headlight lenses don't exist by themselves. You would probably have to buy a complete bike to get it. Other people have talked about casting new lenses. I hope someone does.

Memory Lane sells new chrome-plated rear reflectors for $15. The small reflectors for the carrier are hard to come by.

The best way to get a bike you'll be proud of may be to part out the bikes you have and buy one that doesn't need restoration.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   brazing using oxy-acetaline-oxy-mapp gas posted by: Jordan on 1/3/2001 at 8:31:28 PM
I was wondering if anybody knows the proper method to brazing on a normal bicycle? I bought one of those rinky dinky canadian tire brazing kits but it didnt work. what should I do?


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   brazing using oxy-acetaline-oxy-mapp gas posted by Jon on 1/21/2001 at 4:45:19 PM
I have brazed bike tubes using a small oxy-acetelene torch. From my experience, I have found that small hobby welders are a little too small for joining large tubes, but it can be done with practice. The trick is heating the parts enough to cause the flux and brass rod to flow into the joint without overheating and damaging the steel. (particularily around delicate lugwork) A large blowtorch will heat a larger area more evenly. You have to keep the flame moving around the tube. Also, I have used silver solder and it seems to be easier to work with than the brass rod.(I believe it flows at a slightly lower temperature) This area of restoration is more of an art that requires practice. There is no shortage of instruction on welding. Check the library. Get an old bike to practice on. Good luck.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Mattel Stallion posted by: Jerry Wilson on 12/11/2000 at 12:18:24 AM
I have a mint condition Stallion. I only need to find what kind of tires were on it originally, and was the varoom motor something you added later, or did it come on the bike too? Any other info on these bikes are welcome. I've seen the pictures on this database. Thanks





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   REMOVING CHAIN FROM BIKE posted by: STEVEN on 12/9/2000 at 4:45:27 AM
CAN ANYONE SUGGEST HOW TO REMOVE A CHAIN FROM A FRAME THAT HAS NO MASTER LINK, IM GOING TO GET IT PAINTED SOON, AND DO NOT WANT TO GET IT SCRATCHED,, THANK YOU,,


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   REMOVING CHAIN FROM BIKE posted by Jon on 12/9/2000 at 7:37:51 AM
An inexpensive chain tool probably sells for under $10. It pushes a pin out that holds the outer plates together. Don't remove the pin all the way. Just enough to flex the chain and pull it apart. Be careful putting it back together. Make sure the plates line up before pushing the pin back. When finished, flex the chain at the joint or put the tool on the opposite side of the chain and push the pin back a little to loosen the stiff link. You could also take it to the bike shop and have them remove it for a few bucks.
A good tip: Get to know a local bike shop mechanic without making yourself obnoxious and nine times out of ten he'll do these pesky little jobs on the spot for nothing or next to nothing. Be a regular customer, buy your stuff at his shop whenever possible, and don't bring him the stuff you bought at WalMart or the mail order shop unless you have to (especially if he has the same product sitting on the shelf). You may pay a little more initially, but you're also buying influence.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   REMOVING CHAIN FROM BIKE posted by James Vaughan on 12/9/2000 at 10:51:58 AM
There is something called a lock cutter which snaps chains off

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   REMOVING CHAIN FROM BIKE posted by Jon on 12/9/2000 at 6:06:25 PM
I was assuming that Steven wanted to put the same chain back on when the paint job was finished. Also, if the bike is a derraileur geared bike, it wouldn't have a master link on it.

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   REMOVING CHAIN FROM BIKE posted by JOEL on 12/14/2000 at 8:58:49 AM
Steven, you might also consider adding a master link to your chain while it is apart (assuming it is not a deraleur bike).




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   restoration tip posted by: sam on 12/1/2000 at 6:34:38 AM
John B.gave me a great restoration tip and I thought I'd pass it along.Buy a few cheap bikes at goodwill to practice on,paint, clean,etc,when finished donate them back and take a tax credit!


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   restoration tip posted by Wings on 12/15/2000 at 9:08:01 PM
I am going to paint and pin stripe several cruisers with a Black Phantom paint job before I paint an original Phantom frame this spring. I though I would try and Old style enamel also.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Menotomy's cleaning kit posted by: Bob P. on 11/30/2000 at 6:03:53 AM
Here's my unsolicited endorsement for Menotomy's bicycle cleaning kit:

It works. I've brought 6 crummy bikes up to good condition and it was easy. My only suggestion is to use only a tiny amount of the cleaning oil at a time, like maybe a drop per fender unless the bike is in really bad shape.

Thanks Menotomy!





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by: David on 11/23/2000 at 6:46:07 AM
By the way, those are Schwinn spokes. thanks





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by: David on 11/23/2000 at 6:41:53 AM
Does anybody here crop & rethread spokes? If yes, please post it. The how to do it.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Jon on 11/23/2000 at 8:49:44 AM
I have used a thread rolling tool. It looks much like a chain tool except you lock the spoke down between three small tapered rollers then turn a handle that threads the rollers onto the cut end of the spoke. It came in very handy when the right length spoke was not available. Good luck finding one.

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Daivid on 11/25/2000 at 1:19:03 PM
Thread rolling tool. Jon, when you said good luck, meaning you just can't by one from a local tool or hardware store? Ok, so can you give me a little more on this tool? I'm sure there are others with the same needs. What was the tool used for other than cutting fine threads?

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Jon on 11/25/2000 at 6:06:32 PM
The sole purpose of the tool was to roll threads (not cut them) onto a cut spoke. This action would actually make the thread diameter slightly larger than the spoke diameter and I believe would lessen the chance of breaking the spoke at the thread when under tension. The rollers had spiral grooves on them that would press the thread into the spoke. There were different thread sizes available. The tool was also adjustable for different spoke gauges from .080 to .120ga. You could find this tool in most upscale shops in the 70's. It may have been produced by VAR or Park Tools.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Wings on 11/26/2000 at 10:11:32 PM
I travel about 40 miles to have my spokes cut and rolled in one turn of a crank. Non threaded spokes are used and this is very convenient because they will roll the threads on any length of spoke.
Bob's Bike Shop in Ojai, California has the tool. They would know the name of the tool and where it can be obtained. Phone: 805-646-7736

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Daivid on 11/27/2000 at 3:04:11 PM
Thanks guys, i will give this Bobs bike shop a call. Park tools sells only to dealers.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by bicyclepriest on 11/28/2000 at 9:51:34 AM
A company called Hozan makes a spoke thread chaser which I
think is what your looking for. The only place in the U.S. I
have seen them for sale was on Ebay. Pretty rare item here.
But I do have Hozan's web address. I currently waiting on
a catalog for them so that I may be able to purchase one of
these unattainable devices. check out www.hozan.co.jp They
are a Japanese company.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Jon on 11/28/2000 at 5:17:56 PM
Good hunting Bikepriest. That's the very tool I was describing. It looks like they have a very good selection of tools.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Mike Q. on 12/8/2000 at 10:23:15 AM
I can get you a brand new Hozan spoke threading machine for $110.00 delivered to your door in continental U. S. This is their top model for stainless as well as zinc spokes, adjustable for 14 and 15 gauge. Or, if you're really flush, a professional model Phil Wood machine is available for $2625! Allow about a week for delivery.

Mike Q.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Albert on 12/26/2000 at 7:36:31 AM
The Hozan machine is available from the Third Hand, a maail-order bicycle tool company located in Shasta , CA. The are going out of busineess in March--so hurry. The price is substantially less than what was quoted on this site.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Bicycle swap meet December 3, 2000. Swansea, Massachusetts posted by: joe on 11/14/2000 at 8:44:13 AM
Bicycle swap meet December 3, 2000. Swansea, Massachusetts. If interested, please email me.
Thank you.





RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   2 speed Bendix model B posted by: Doug Cahal on 11/12/2000 at 3:37:51 PM
My father acquired two Schwinn bikes that he is restoring.
A Schwinn Racer deluxe and a Typhoon. He is working on the Racer
and is having problems with the Bendix 2 speed Model B.
Do you have a schematic for this? He gave me the bikes serial
number it is JA 76839. Any info on this particular bike(the Racer)
would be appreciated. Thank you Doug Cahal


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   2 speed Bendix model B posted by Jon on 11/16/2000 at 6:42:25 PM
An older Schwinn dealer in your area may have a set of manuals with the exploded views as well as disassembly/reassembly procedures. Guys who have been in the business long enough know better than to dispose of that stuff.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   2 speed Bendix model B posted by MNSmith on 11/18/2000 at 7:21:48 PM
I have laid out a manual that might be of some help. It is for the old Bendix 2 speed hub. Go to the link section here at Oldroads and look up my site, Bunch "O" Bikes. You will find the info in my tips and restoration section. I hope it is info that will help you!