If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I have an old 'sit up and beg' rudge bike. It was built to never fall apart, and it hasn't. However, over the years it has been inexpertly repainted many times, and now looks horrible with many layers of paint on the frame. I want to repaint it, but have no experience. I assume I need to strip off the old paint because as it is the surface is not smooth. My instinct wouldbe to use a light emry cloth, but I am just guessing. As for the paining, for a smooth coat would a spray can from a car shop be the best bet? Any tips would be very welcome! |
| Use a chemical stripper and a scraper assisted by a wire brush. You can even use a wire brush mounted to a variable speed drill. Be sure to wear old clothing and eye protection. To remove rust, try auto wheel cleaner with phosphoric acid in it. You can sucessfully use a spray can. It requires keeping the can the proper distance from the frame. You must move the can while spraying or you'll get runs. Start spraying before you hit the frame and stop after you pass the frame. I might also suggest painting tight areas (where tubes meet) first. As for types of paint, consult an auto painter or auto paint supply store. Your local library may also have books on the subject of auto painting. The same steps and techniques apply. |
| You can do all of the grunt work yourself if you want I used to also but chemical stripper costs a lot and you have a mess of painty goo left on the floor I found a paint stripping shop in my town who will do the frame and chainguard for a mere 30.00 well worth the price believe me sand paper and stripper would run about that much not to mention your time its worth a look in my opinion good luck. Doug |
| Thanks for reminding me. In a previous post I mentioned that you could take a frame to a shop that rebuilds engines. They ususally will have a dip tank for stripping and degreasing car engines. For a nominal fee they may throw your frame in. It will save you a lot of trouble. |
| If I were going to do a Rudge, or one of the other "widow-spider black" English Roadsters, I would strip it, steel-wool it, prime it with Krylon sandable spray-can primer, then spray it with Krylon semi-gloss black, then polish and wax it. It will look beautiful and authentic. Krylon resists running, so it's easy to to a nice job. |
| I have a Shelby Eagle bicycle from the late 40's or early 1950's. Does anyone have any information on this bicycle. I would like to restore it if possible. Thanks |
| Hi All, I just bought a Schwinn 3-speed and a garage sale and I want to know what model it is. Here is what I found out so far. Made in March 1971 it is Magenta or some kind of Red in color and has 27 x 1 3/8" tires it also has the kind of breaks that tighten on the rims. Any and all advice is needed! Thank you! |
| Need Help.... Can anybody tell me what kind of brake this is? Sorry for the poor pictures. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks http://web2.airmail.net/kgould/DGDiskpicture2.jpg |
| Looks like a Shimano disk brake, but I can't believe it doesn't say Shimano somewhere. |
| Does anyone out there know if somebody makes or offers a wide selection of vintage handlebar grips (bike was made in Japan between 1935 - 1942)? Also, I may need to restore a leather seat from the same bike. Any suggestions on an approach or recommendations on who does this type of stuff? Thanks! |
| Wow,this is something we don't see often,a per-war japan bike!Try this site for info on the seat etc http://www.nostalgic.net/ hope that helps.This bike comes from an interesting peorid in japan history.there is a web site with japan bike history,maybe some of the other readers here can tell you how to find it.Would like to know how you came onto this bike---sam |
| Hi. Just found the bike of my dreams, a schwinn ladies world tourist. I don't know the year, and the numbers on what I think may be the back dropout do not match any of the posted lists. I guess she is about 40 or 45 yrs old. I'm stripping off the old paint. The metal is in great condition, very little rust. I plan to keep the metal bare - it looks so cool - but I need to find a good sealer to protect it. The headbadge reads "Schwinn Chicago." Anybody else out there with a stripped down bike? farabo |
| Live the dream... A can of clearcoat from the auto parts store should work for you. |
| I also have Scwinn Touring bikes! We have neglected them for many years because we really, really didn't have the time to ride. Now we are retired and drug them out, rust and all. You have given us hope! Thanks!!! |
| This problem keeps getting more technical all the time. The threads on the top bolt are gone from trying to get the wedge unlodged. I put a screwdriver down there and hammered away only to ruin the screwdriver. It appears to be totally frozen in place. What to do? |
| dwl, Try using Liquid Wrench down the fork tube, under the fork where the fender bolts up. Let it sit over night. If you still have problems, put a pair of old handle bars you can spare on the goose neck. Take a hard plastic hammer, and hit the top of the goose neck down into the fork. If you still have problems, flip the frame over and hit the bottom of the goose neck down. Watch for the liquid wrench to seep down the goose neck. W.D-40 works good too. When you start to see some movement happening; grab the handle bars and twist back and forth. If you have a problem holding your frame still, put your forks in between a tree branch that will fit between the forks. This will keep the fork from moving. Help along every now and then with a hard plastic hammer, by tapping around the goose neck. |
| If the gooseneck is loose -- remove it and leave the wedge -- or if the threads hold it in place keep it there. I strip Schwinns all the time and I have found that the following always works: 1. soak it with liquid wrench. 2. I have purchased a long pin punch for this next step (Cheap at Harbor Freight). I turn it upside down and put the puch up the fork and hit it a couple of times and out it comes! The pin punch is at least .5 inch where I hit it and it tapers to about .25 inch where it hits the wedge! Better than a screwdriver! I also have a narrow tub that the head will fit in -- horizontal to the ground - where the entire head can soak in solvent, but after the pin punch I have never had to use it! Be patient! |
| In 1975 my father bought my mother a used bike, It is probably not much older then 1975, all the parts on it say suntour, and the logo on the front of the bike is a crown, but the words have faded off, all I can tell is that the model is Jupiter-Beat and that it says deluxe, but I don't know what bike company had a crown like logo. I am asking about it because I have never seen one like it and was thinking of tring to get it running again. It is a ten speed, the sifters are at the end of the handle bars, the bike pump mounts are welded to the frame, unfortunatly I don't think they make pumps that fit it anymore. Also the tubing for the frame is not round, it is kinda oval, the top and bottem of the tube is round but the sides are flat with an indent, that my mother always ran reflective tape in. The bike in not the orginal colors since it liked to walk off, but being a one of a kind in a small town she always managed to get it back. Thank You for any help you can give. |
| I have acquired a 1963 Schwinn Racer, coaster brake model. I need to repaint because of all the rust. Only thing is I do not know where I may find some Schwinn decals. The decals on the bike have Schwinn with the little twinkles at the beginning and the end of the decal. I would like to repaint and from what I can gather the paints used are just regular car paints?? I have the original Schinn made in Chicago sticker and also a 'Arnold/Schwinn sticker on the seat tube. I am going to preserve these two stickers. Any help from out there would be very much appreciated.... Dan |
| $5 each. Call 9am-5pm edt. New paint, even if the same formula, will not match 40 year-old paint. |
| I bought decals from maple island sales in MO. also and was very happy with them(417)682-6655 have them send you a catalog nice people to work with.Ive had luck at the automotive paint stores getting matching or very close color paint good luck. |
| I have an old Schwinn, I'm not sure what it is. I thought that it might help if I found the serial number but I can't find it. I believe the bike was made somewhere between 1951 to 1963. It has a spring fork in front with a bolt going though one section of the spring fork. Would anyone know where I should look to find the serial number? |
| Serial numbers were under the bottom hanger bracket until 1952 when they were moved to the left rear dropout. They were moved again in 1972 to the head tube. After you find the age, look at pictures to get a better idea- there are plenty on the web and there are good books with catalog ads etc that help distinguish among all the models - good luck, don't give up. |
| I have an "poor soluction" for whose who loves an whitewall tire but hasn´t the money for buy it. Paint the wheel sidewalls with snow white latex paint (you could use it for paint your garden fence too). Well, if you don´t wet it with water jet or put the tires in the mud, it will needs only little "paint corrections" times in times. Ok? |
| ihave a 1 speed (Green)schwinn stinray fairlady, on the left rear drop out it says "fe45411" plese tell me what year it is, and what years fairladys were made in too.AND YES ITS FOR SALE |
| There are serial number charts on this site. Click on 'Resources' at the top of this page. |
| ...June 1969. ds |
| In response to jj's reply concerning sissy bar removal: the sissor jack survived roughly 10 minutes before shearing the threads due to the extreme pressure. I am going to try a hydrolic bottle jack next. I will let all know how things progress. Leigh |
| Before going to extremes, give the penetrating oil a chance to work. Sometimes it takes days or weeks to loosen a crusty part. Apply more at least daily. Scrape away rust at the edges to let in the oil. Tap it gently with a hammer, twist it if possible, don't fource it. Patience. |
| How's it going Liegh?? I wanted too reply to this post when I first read it. I didn't for the simple reason, I do not have any expearence in this process. When it comes to rust I have long experince. I do know that when you have one pipe inserted inside another; and has been exposed to much weather conditions, thats a great resipe for RUST.I will wait for others to post replies concerning a problem, or solution in a given area; so I can learn too. Always remember, and take in concideration, that a situation like this one can take a turn for the worst. Its happened to me more than I care to remember. This is a chance you take when doing something, someone else had a positive out come. You win some, and you loose some. Thats experince at its best. Like Joel said, " take a rubber mallet, and ever so litely,with gentle blows, allow your penatrating oil to work". Good luck to you. Be patiant, and try not too compound more problems, I know its easier said, than done; but I have much experince in mistakes, just like every one else. You'll get it, hang tough! |
| i had the same problem with a chopper. the sissy bar actually boke just above the right side. i oild like a mfo def party jam to no avail. my solution was... buy a nos sissy bar, and to get the old bar out, like i said the one side was broken, i cut the other side, and used screw outs to get the other side out. (i know them as pull outs, they may be called something else, they are reverse threaded, look like a punch, with a squared top, ya turn it with a wrench and it threads onto the hollow bar and pulls it out) john |
| Hi Guys, I have an old British GPO (her majesty's post office) bike that needs some attention. It's basically knackered with a bad and flaky paint job and rust every where else. What are the basics for making rusty rims good, and respraying a frame. Also rod brakes - I suspect that it is possible to change just the pad rubber, rather than the whole shoe, as a shoe for a rod brake must be hard to find. So what can you make theese from??? Pass your wisdon on - and thanks. |
| They sell rod brake pads (roller pads) on this site. |
| the rusty rims are going to be a tuff one because your bike is a rod brake.You really need to have the rims replated.(or replaced)or you could change to a coster brake or drum brake--you did say you plan to make this a custom? With a coster you could paint the rims--but then you would have to remove any chrome that might be left. Tuff call--sam |
| I recectly found a very old bike out hiking. I looked it over and after I discovered that the rims had been made out of wood I decided that it was very old and that it was worth carrying it out of the ravine and bringing home; It has a brass badge on it that states, "Ames and Frost Model 80 Chicago." After searching online I came across only one page. Can anyone point me in a direction on where to find out more information about this bike? The frame is rusty but the metal is all sound. The bike has everything on it except the chain and the wooden wheels are missing most of the wood. Would it be better to restore this bike myself, I am pretty good at such things but have no experience with vintage bicycles, or would it be better, for the bike, to sell it to a collector or someone who probably would have it professionaly restored? Thanks in Advance... |
| The company is unfamiliar. You could look it up at the library to see when they were in business. Wood rims were used commonly until the 1930s and are still made for racing bikes. More information would be helpful in dating it (chain type, wheel size, frame style, ...) Restoration could get pricey (28" tires, chains, wood rims... $$$). An 1890s safety would be well worth the expense but a common motorbike might not be. |
| The one page I found online was an Ames & Frost Model 86 and it was dated 1896, http://www.rydjor.com/1896imp.htm, I just went there and I guess it is a safety bike, now that I know what that is; So I assume that the Model 80 came before the Model 86, but I don't know if manufacturers change model numbers once a year or what. Thanks for the response |
| The bike in the link is a safety or track bike from around the turn of the century. I scanned a list that I have of bike makers in 1905 and A&F was not listed so I would guess they did not survive the automobile era. That narrows down the year pretty well. You might try the HH/Boneshaker/Safety forum for more info (or Ryjdor Bikes). The book Collecting and Restoring Antique Bicycles covers bikes of this era pretty well too. |
| Sounds like a great find! I hope you keep it, and rebuil or restore it yourself. The wheels can be rebuilt - new wooden rims are still available. They are made in Italy, laminated,precision drilled, size 700 C, spoke holes 28, 32,36,40, right or left hand,i.e. Eropean or American style spoke lacing. You can buy the longer nipples to suit these thick wooden rims. You just have to clean and overhaul the hubs. I don't know the price of the rims, but I fear they may not be cheap. That size has been around for 100 years or more. Plain 14 gauge spokes will do, although stainless steel looks much better on these dark, varnished rims. You may have to find yourself a 1 inch pitch block chain to suit the sprockets. Gopher it! and good luck. ( Wish I had an antique bike). Cheers. |