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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I have what I think is an easy question. I have never removed a freewheel before so I am ran into a roadblock. I purchased the Park Freewheel remove for my Regina freewheel from the early 80's or late 70's. I have removed the quick release skewer. The problem is that there is another nut in the way preventing me from fitting the tool onto the freewheel. I am afraid to remove that nut because I think it may be holding in the bearings to the hub and I don't want to mess with that. Should I remove that nut or is it possible I bought the wrong tool even though it says it is for a Regina and I have a Regina? Any help would be great! Brian |
| 1. Remove the nut. The nut may be on top of a collar or it may be part of a collar. Usually when I try to remove the nut the it turns the nuts on the other side also. I use a wrench and/or cone wrench on the other side if the nut on the freewheel side does not move. I also have special aluminum vice jaw covers that are softer than the axle. These covers have an indent for the azle so if the nut on the freewheel side is really stubborn I remove the nut on the opposite side and put the axle threads in the aluminum alloy vice jaws and tighten it downk! Then, I am able (99%) of the time to remove the stubborn nut on the freewheel side. Liquid wrench helps also. Bearings will not fall out of the freewheel side when you do this. When I get the stubborn nut off I take it out of the vice. I put the freewheel remover on and attach a nut to hold the freewheel remover in place (Otherwise you can kill the remover.). I put it between my legs, brace myself and use a wrench on the freewheel remover and it does not move! Then I pick up a 2 inch diameter pipe and slide it over the wrench handle and apply a little pressure and it is loose!!! I then remove the nut and screw the freewheel out. Now sometimes noe of this works!!!!!! In that case I remove the nuts and loose bearings from the oppossite side and remove the axle. Yes, the bearings are loose when this is done! Be careful!!!! |
| Keep the tire on as you do all of this!!! The tire is easier to grip and stays put on the floor!!! |
| i have a pair of old grips to remove off of a pair of handlebars and they are on there pretty good the rubber has got to be pretty brittle so what can i do to save them? email me direct if you could thank you. |
| Stick a thin screwdriver or old spoke underneath the bottom of the grip. Squirt in some oil or water. Wrap grip with large towel. Twist it off! |
| Yes, slide in a thin screwdriver and lift up and spray in HAIR SPRAY! I have tried water and liquid cleaners and Hair Spray works best. I then slide the screw driver around a little and repeat on the other side and then pull out the screw driver and the grips slide off. Watch the angle of the bars -- you want the Hair Spray to seep in there! When you put on new grips spray the inside with HAIR SPRAY. Slide them on and let them dry in place and they will stay! I use a finger activated pump spray. I prefer Extra Hold :) |
| See the comments about this gear ratios for decide why you will use on your bicycle´s restauration... 46/16=2.875. Seens good for final speed, but you must be with steel legs for push it on. Too "heavy"! 46/20=2.300. The standard gear ratio on Brazil (For what you need to know it?). Nor too heavy or too light, you could uphill a mild hill with this. 40/16=2.555. Ok! This is the medium term between standard ratios and more final speed ratios. Choose it if you want to walk at front of other cyclists. But beware you must be have legs for push it fastly. 44/20=2.000. Ideal for to use on english roadsters restauration. It´s light ratio, but nor too light. 34/20=1.700. The gear ratio I use on my 18 kg krate bike. It is very good for to push an 18 kg monster bike with one meter front fork. |
| The above ratios only have meaning if the diameter of the wheel is given that you use and of course this information depends on what the land is like (Hills, flat, Mountains). 46/16 = 2.875 If your bike has 26 inch wheels you are talking approx. 75 gear inches which is great for cruising at the beach. But if you ride a 20 inch wheel bike like I do it would be approx. 58 gear inches which is very common on BMX bikes which I would say would be medium. Where I live I have gone to a lower ratio than 34/20 because I am surrounded by hills and some are very steep. Age, muscle, wheel size, geography , wind are all factors to consider. I tend to think gear inches rather than the ratios. I have my 20 inch bike set for a low of 22 g.i. and a high of about 110 g.i. I can go up any hill and go fast on the flat -- but this of course is not a fixed gear bike. Thanks for the post. |
| Can anyone tell me if the bearing wells on the bottem bracket and head tube come off a 1950's girl's Schwinn Tornando? I plan to repaint the bike and want to know how to handle these areas. Thanks in advance, Geoff. |
| They sure do! They can usually be driven off with a punch and a few good hits. If you don't have a punch, a hefty screwdriver will do. |
| I have been looking for a replacement indicator chain HSA125 (the shorter chain), and have only been able to find the longer HSA126. Anybody know where I could pick up a couple of the shorter indicator chain? Looking at the technical drawings on the Sturmey Archer website, it seems that the length of the indicator chain varies with the length of the axle. Longer Axle = Longer Chain. If it is not possible to find the shorter HSA125, can I replace some of the other parts in the hub (such as the axle) so that I may use my supply of the longer indicator chain? Anybody know why the axle come in two lenghts? |
| Good question, David. I did hear a good reason long ago, but have forgotten it. Perhaps the longer axle allows for the mudguard stays, as not all frames had threaded eyes on the dropouts, to keep the mudguard, and carrier (rear rack) mountings separate from the wheel mounting. Some axles can be awfully cluttered supporting all those extras. Also, perhaps the AG (3 spd. dynohub) and the AB (3 spd. brake drum hub) required the longer axle. I dunno. The longer selector rod can be used in the shorter axle BUT do check that the selector chain does not run out of the R.H. axle nut, i.e. first gear selection may be tricky because the rod is being pulled 'around' the curve of the nut. One can use a spacer under the nut, to position the nut further out on the axle, but make sure there is enough thread for the nut to grip on. I can see no reason why AW axles cannot be swapped in AW hubs. To adjust the cable, set the false neutral position of the trigger lever so that it occurs half way between 1st and 2nd gear positions of the lever. This is done by counting the number of links which move out of the axle nut when selecting 2nd gear from first. There are other ways, see Sheldon Brown's website if ness. Cheers. |
| I'm just getting started on restoring some older (50s,60s) bikes that I found at the dump (nothing rare, but fun riders). Can you folks suggest literature, web sites, articles, parts sources, etc. on vintage bike restoration. How to clean chrome, touch-up paint, where to get the right colors, suggestions for rechroming & repainting sources, where to get decals, parts, etc. Thanks!!! |
| Sure! Feel free to stop by my web site where I have a section dedicated to restoration tips. http://www.concentric.net/%7Errrrguy/bike.html |
| Thanks! Good tips and links. Followed a bunch through. Still more to go. How about recommended sources for DECALS, re-chroming, repainting? Many thanks. |
| Decals: Try Memory Lane ( http://www.memorylane-classics.com/ ) or Maple Island Sales ( http://members.tripod.com/maple_island_sales/contents.html ). Chrome: There are a couple ways to do this. The same can also be said for paint. Go to your local bike shop and ask if they know the local bike restorer / collector. He is usually someone who can do the work or knows where to send you. You can also look up your local chrome shop and ask to see some of their work. Also ask if they do bike parts. There are also the links that you found on my web page. Many of those collectors also restore bikes and can do paint work. It also helps to know what part of the country you are in so your choices can be narrowed down. My links page is California heavy. I have a local chrome shop that does excellent work, but that won't do you much good if you are on the east coast! Good Luck! |
| I have been collecting and restoring old bikes for many years, and just wrote a book that answers all of your questions. It is titled: How To Restore Your Collector Bicycle. It is published by MBI, and will be shipping in a couple weeks. It is for sale now at Amazon.com, BarnesandNoble.com, Motorbooks.Com, and other sites. The author is me: William Love. Good luck, and have fun working on those old bikes! |
| GO TO AIRGLOWPAINTING.COM |
| I recently purchased a 3 speed traveler. The bike is complete and original from the foot pedals to the seat. I would like to know if it is worth restoring or should I leave it as is. The bike is green with cream or white colored emblems. I am guessing it is from the fifties. I couldn't find a serial number on the bike. The only letters or numbers stamped on the bike were an "AH" I believe. If anyone has info on where to look on the bike to specifically find certain characteristics to help me distinguish how old this bike is. Thank You kindly, Pete |
| If the AH is the beginning of the serial # it is January 1972. See if you see any numbers afterwards. If you like it, it is worth restoring. Best to keep original if not too bad. |
| Just bought a old Hiawathia on E bay for about 20 bucks needs a bit of work any speciality places sell Hiawathia headbadges or decals this one has dozen layers of house pait will need a complete overhaul ( Im in heaven) Thanks in advance Doug. |
| Misspelled Hiawatha bonehead!!! |
| What are you the spelling police-this is about bike restoration PINHEAD!! |
| just a note, Doug seemed to be criticizing his own poor spelling. I too jumped to conclusions that someone was a bit too surly, but that wasn't the case. |
| if it was doug that is i quit going to the schwinn site because of someone using me to harrass others i havent been there but once since it shut down but ive heard ive been real regular on there and even i was going broke and selling all my stuff. |
| Can anyone recommend some tips and procedures or a exc restoration guide that can be applied to cleaning and restoration of chrome finishes on old bicycles (circa 1935-1945). Would like to get some advice from the readers for cleaning and if necessary preparing parts for rechroming. Also, if there are certain places that are recommended for re doing the chrome plating on wheels, handlebars, everything! Thanks - Stuart |
| The mixture and bronze wool works really well for surface rust removal that they sell on here if you are going to re chrome dont bother with doing anything the plater will do it all for you Ive got a 20 inch rim being re chromed right now and its not cheap though 65.00 Industrial plating in Omaha can do it for you too They win awards for theyre great work but be prepaired to fork over some bucks as they say you get what you pay for if you want the phone # for them let me know I will e mail it to ya, good luck in your restoration Doug. |
| First of all thank you for making my day a little easier each time I work with my bicycles. I wanted everyone that loves swap meets, the El Camino Swap and Show will be held again on Sat. Sept. 29th. contact www.batorinternational.com This show is a real motorcycle and bicycle swap meet. Last year it was cancelled for reasons only the parties involved know about. The best thing to happen is that some fine people have brought it back. Go and enjoy the cheapest fun date you can have. You can even bring the children.Telephone 805 646 9566 |
| I recently found a 1951 Schwinn Streamliner at a yard sale with a lot of dents in fenders. The guy selling it to me said that he knew of a brake for rolling them out. Has anyone used this or should I just rig something up that matches the profile in order to hammer out. |
| It is called a fender roller check with your local bike shops they should be able to put you in touch with someone who has one.(unless its a certain schwinn dealer in Omaha who couldnt be LESS helpfull if they tried) Rhymes with tie tack. |
| Here is one. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1160136271 |
| hammering out fenders only works to a certain extent then you have to mud or lead them a roller will do about 90% of the work some fenders (especially rusty ones)will need some mud to fill pinholes anyway and peaked or crown fenders are a pain in the derrier |
| Hi Everyone! Does anybody out there know of a good source for celluloid bike grips (1938-1943 era). I have a bike without grips and would like to find either celluloid reproductions or nice originals. HELP! email Stu at dec_consulting@hotmail.com |
| i have a 71 manta ray. i recently took it apart, and cleaned all nuts bolts, hardware etc as best i can, and im having a friend rechrome some parts. the paint has major chips, and was repainted befor i got it. i was thinking of getting it repainted. can anybody tell me a good place to get this done? thanks john |
| Try to see if any autobodies in your area will paint it they do a heck of a job. Tony |
| Does anyone have (2) 26x1.75 whitewall tires. Need !! |
| Hey everyone -- i have this 1977 King Kat andi am doing my best to restore it but i have many parts that need replacing so i was wondering if anyone knew anything about this bik -- all the info and back ground would be great so i can try and find some parts - i have a pic of the bike but i can't put it on here for some reason -- so i can send it anyone that wnats to se what i am talking about -- also rust removal is also another thing i want to do -- just mostly surface rust -- is steel wool a god idea? |
| I am stripping a 1960 3 speed triumph, my problem is the retaining bolt on the pedals are frozen, consequently I cannot remove them -- help. |
| - Keep spraying them with WD-40 and letting them set overnight. - REMEMBER: The LEFT SIDE pedal is LEFT hand threaded, so you turn in CLOCKWISE to loosen it. - Slip a section of pipe over you wrench for better leverage. |
| Hello, I've been using Loctite Naval Jelly (the rust removing, pink goo) to clean up my women's Robin Hood, especially the bolts, screws, nuts and all the important parts that keep the bike together. The instructions on the bottle seem to recommend using Extend Rust Neutralizer within 24 hours. Is it really nessisary to use this product, or will a light coat of oil prevent rust from quickly forming? Dave. |
| Oil will make anything a dirt magnet and in my experience doesnt do that well in preventing rust I have not used the product you mention but a friend has and reccomends it highly good luck. |
| clean them off with a soft bristle brass brush (usually at the hardware store in a 3 pk for a buck or two)and then either a light coat of poof can clear or wax them before you put them on the bicycle |