If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I'm needing info on paint and decal replacement on a 1968 Jack Taylor tandem I'm wanting to restore correctly. Any help would be appreciated. I'm just getting started on this first bicycle project. Motor bikes are my normal focus, but this looks like a challenging project. Thanks. |
| If your monitor is glowing green right now, it's because of my envy... Take a look at http://www.nonlintec.com/carlton and you can see how I did it. I won't say this is the best or only approach, but it worked for me. Decal restoration is a real problem, probably the greatest of the lot. Printing on decal paper is limited, because you can't print white, the inks are translucent, and fade if they spend a lot of time in the sun. But I don't have a better suggestion. |
| Try Cyclart in San Francisco. Can contact them through their website. |
| I beleive he means Vista, San Deigo California. They are located here on Old Rodes. |
| Does anyone know where I can get all the decals for a 1970's " Raleigh Gran Prix? |
| I have a Columbia Commuter 3 from the 70's that has bad rust on the chrome fenders and rims and handlebars...pretty much everywhere there is chrome. What can I do to remove the rust and protect the chrome from it happening again? Any help would be great! |
| Will, Just take the whole bike apart. I mean down too the bare frame. Clean all your parts indivisually; its easier that way. Clean the bearings in the hubs, crank, and fork bearings and re- grease them. Remove the tires, and clean your rims inside and out. Remove the spoke inner rubber band and remove any rust. Clean the bead on the tires. Like you said, "where there is chrome; their is rust". After all is done, now take some car wax, and apply too every part "PRIOR too assembly". Once that is all done put it together and enjoy it. |
| Thanks. I've been overhauling the bike and all its parts slowly, just not at the same time. I was just wondering what the best way to remove the rust and have the chrome shiny, if at all possible... Thanks for your input on the matter! ;) |
| Will, what I've found to work best for me is to get some COPPER (not steel) wool... you can usually find this at the grocery near the dish soap, etc and a small copper or brass bristle brush... hardware or surplus store usually have them for under a buck. Do your major clean-up with the wool pad and use the brush for the nooks & crannies... sometimes if things are really gnarlly I'll use a bit of WD-40 to loosen the rust. Wipe it all down then set to polishing with some automotive chrome polish. For a top notch 'pop yer eyes out sparkle finish up with some "Never-Dull". It's amazing the results! |
| Thanks Stacy and everyone for their help! :) |
| Help wanted please.....anybody had experience of repairing damaged mudguards? My 1931 Raleigh Light Roadster has original mudguards and I would like to keep it that way. They are thinner gauge than the Raleigh DL1 equivalent. The problem is not rust, it is metal fatigue. The rear guard has 6" of the back end snapped off, the flat stays are snapped off, and there are two or three radial splits in other places, one of which runs almost all the way across the guard. Enquiries so far have come up with low temperature MIG welding, or finding a good tinsmith. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone with practical experience of this task.... regards,Peter. |
| Hi Pete, Don't think Mig, the word for today is "Tig welder"! A Tig welder is the right choice for this type of job. The reason is, LOW HEAT, with minumal clean up. They use this type of method when building frames. No matter how well you mend it, you will still have too fellow up with added work too get a clean flat finish. Make sure the guy you hire takes into consideration that you don't want a warped mud gaurd back. |
| I have an old green box of New Dep. discs.They have circular wear- appearing marks on them.Could these be factory machining marks? or just wear. I'm debating whether to use them, or just find some new ones. Thanks much for any help. Tom. |
| Tom, the circular ware marks on New Dep, discs is normal ware. That is caused by fine dirt and grime over the years riding, and grinding and the bike reaming idle. What I do with these; I put them in a 1. gallon size coffee can that I have made 6 holes in the bottom; then put the plastic lid that the coffee can comes with, and tranfer that too the bottom during the spraying of "oven cleaner". Tom! "stand back", oven cleaner has a way with the lungs, instant breathing problems. Once you let them sit a bit, pick up the can and shake it all about, you know what I mean, like a washing machine. Then set the can down and remove the plastic lid and rince, and spray away the grime too a shine. You thought your disks looked bad before, now you can see the real charactor now. Inspect your parts, like if you were Quality Control, and if they need a second washing; "spray once more", and put the lid back on the bottom and repeat. Oh ya, almost forgot; take it easy with your garden hose that you don't splash your face! Oven cleaner does "these eyes no good"! Keep your portable washing maching handy for small parts for your future prodjects. Don't make your holes too big on the bottom of the can in case you want too wash bearings. I hope this information will help you and others in keeping small parts from loosing their home. Have fun Tom. |
| Where will I find a serial number on my bike??? I THINK it is a Schwinn (196?), but the jury is still out on that one. Thanks so much. Jenelle |
| Okay, I found the serial number. but it doesn't match any in the oldroads.com data base. P414??0 Any ideas would be great. Thanks. Jenelle |
| Jenelle, Your discription below had a couple of clues. The star sprocket and frame construction sound like an AMF bike of the 60s. Have a look in the database for AMF or Roadmaster brands and you might get lucky. |
| I have just (15mins ago) purchased a older bike from a garage sale. It has a bit of rust on the chrome and a couple flat tires, but all in all seems to be in pretty good shape. I know nothing about the bike- not the make, model or even the year. I would love to fix it up, but have no idea where to start. How can I find out what it looked like originally? Web sites, periodicals, and books would be useful. Thanks, Jenelle |
| First, you have to know what you have. To do this, clean it up, so you can read the head badge and make out the serial# stampings. The head badge is the plate mounted to the tube beneath the handlebar center. If there's no head badge, study the bike, and make note of its features. Then, go to the picture archives here, and look for one which shares the same characteristics. If you know the make, you will be miles ahead, as we can probably date it for you, if you can describe its secondary characteristics. Extremely basic information you must note is tire size (usually molded into the tire sidewall; whether it's a male or female frame, and the headbadge information. From there, we can ask you questions about it, which will eventually result in your knowing what it is and its age. From there, you can learn everything else. So study it carefully. As most people on this list would agree, time spent studying bikes is time well spent. |
| After removing several layers of dirt and grease I have found part of what appears to be a serial number! P414??0 According to a list I found on the internet this matches Schwinn's 1964 coding. This is the only indication I have to the make because other than the serial number there are NO markings! Basic features include that it is a man's bike and has 26 x 1.75 tires. The Hanger Sprocket has 6 stars cut into it (3 big, 3 small). The curved double bar has pointed ends (like sharpened pencils) where it meets with the lower bar, and is connected to the top bar just under the seat. It does not have a chain guard, but there is a spot where I believe one was once attached. The owner thought the original color was brown, but I have found some red paint under the green that she painted it. I hope this is enough info to get me started. I have been searching to internet for HOURS. But all I have figured out is what it probably isn't. Thanks for you suggestions! Jenelle |
| Sometimes, establishing what it isn't is the only way to find out what it is. It's like Michaelangelo chipping away the marble to get rid of everything that didn't look like his statue of "David". That sprocket with the stars is probably the key to your puzzle. Go through the picture database here until you find one like that. Since you think it may be a Schwinn, you should probably start there. I'd recommend that you ask this question, with details, on the balloon-tire and middleweight list here. That's where you'll find the people who will say "aha!" when you say "chainring with star cutouts." Many of us only go to one or two lists here on a regular basis, unless we're bored. So the right person may never wander into this particular list, normally. Good Luck in your quest. |
| I have some new Schwinn gum-wall tires...26 X 1 3/8. Will they fit on a Sturmey-Archer 26 X 1 3/8 rim? |
| The Schwinn 26 x 1 3/8 tire fits a S-6 Schwinn rim. It will also fit a 26 x 1 1/4 EA 1 Dunlop special light weight rim. It will not fit a 26 x 1 3/8 EA 3, Dunlop, Raleigh, or Sturmey Archer rim. |
| What is the gennerally accepted way to get a 50's schwinn cruiser rolling again? Replace old spokes with new when I clean it up or just re-use old ones to preserve vintage prestige? |
| I think it depends. If the rest of your bike "shines" - you don't want the spokes all rusty and crappy-looking - but if the rest of the bike has faded, scratched, old-looking paint - and the bars, and rims, are all rusty....then leave the spokes alone. If replacing the spokes will make it look much better - then go for it. And actually, just how much do you think the bike is worth? If it's not worth all that much more than a couple hundred dollars - then the spokes probably won't make that much difference. I would try to get new spokes that look as close to the original as possible, though. And hey....save the old ones....If later, someone wants it all totally original...then give them the original spokes...they can change them out. |
| I have a straight bar panther and am putting a new tank on it, but am unclear how it attaches to the lower tube. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. |
| can anyone tell me a step by step method of painting flames on the tank of my bike myself. ive tried but never comes out the way i want it to. do i lay down a stencil with thin tape directly on the tank? i need help. i really would ike to complete this project myself. anyone out there can help me, i would appreciate it very much. |
| Isaac Ray, Go to Recumbents, and Lowrider, Customs here on Old Rodes. Thers a post on flame work. |
| thanks for the info. very much appreciated. |
| Issac, I don't know if you got started doing your flame layout yet, but go to bikerodnkustom web site you can find it in the bicycle links here on Old Rodes. When you enter the BR&K site, look for a young man by the name Andrew Deltoro click on him and check out how you bagg a frame and see how the layout looks like before paint is applied. This might be of some help. |
| no i havent started yet. just waiting for some more advice. i really want to do this bicycle the right way. i will check out that sight. thanks for the help. very much appreciated. |
| I was thinking about painting my new chrome fenders. Is it really possible to sand them enough to get the paint to stick ? |
| Mr. Jimbo Jones, "Yes too painting your chrome fenders". Why not, I have. Not once, but several bikes in the past. When I prep fenders that are chrome I use a D.A sander. I rough them up with 80 grit sandpaper. Then I follow up with 220 dry sandpaper really well. If there is shine, the rule is to remove it, or loose bite from your primer coat. "So do it right the first time"! Take your time doing it. The better the prep JOB, the better your primer will bite into the surface. I take preperation very serious, for the simple reason when i'm going to flame the fenders, and i'm doing a flame layout; I don't need my primer or paint lifting off when removing the tape. Make sure when your done you wash your hands from any kind of grease or oils! Never use a contaminated ragg. Use some laquer thinner and wipe down your fenders really well, then primer. Make sure you do the under sides aswell for extra insurance. "Have fun Mr. Jones". |
| A Friend is correct. Think in Schwinn Phantom terms. That tank had to be chromed before the painted sections were done! www.bunchobikes.com |
| Thanks for the info guys. Will do! |
| My Gitane has a half chromed fork which is quite pitted with rust. What's the best way to restore it ? |
| Hi there. This looks like a helpful group, so... Someone gave us an old bike, the kind we used to ride back in the 50's. Balloon tires, big steel fenders, single speed, etc. I don't know what age or make it is (all plates and decals are missing or painted over). My daughter thinks it's the coolest and wants to use it at college. But, the single rear coaster brake doesn't really work well enough to make it safe to ride. I've never had a bike apart before but am pretty handy. I took the hub apart and discovered that it's an expanding type brake operated by a worm (fascinating - I never knew how they worked before!). I cleaned up all the parts and regreased everything, and cleaned up the brake shoes and inside of the drum (hub). I figure maybe there was some grease residue on the shoes causing them to slip. But, it doesn't work any better. The two shoes look like bronze or brass and are slotted parallel with the axle. The hub, of course, is steel. Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here? Was there some sort of fiber lining on the shoes that's completely worn away? Or what? I was thinking of roughing-up the shoes and/or drum with emery cloth, but wanted to check with you guys before I ruined it further. Any ideas? Thank, Mike |
| Nope, it sounds like it's just plain worn out. I'm not sure if you can find some new shoes anywhere. You might find a newer hub to gut. www.bunchobikes.com |
| Hmmm...thanks for the info. So the shoes just aren't thick enough? I think I'm gonna see if I can shim the the _insides_ of the shoes to get them out where they belong, maybe get better action that way. Thaks again. |
| When we would service older hubs we would literally rough them up on the outside edge (as you thought you might do) The problem you will run into if you try to replace them is that bendix started using 4 smaller shoes instead of 2 like you have in order to reduce the distance the rider had to back pedal to engauge the brakes. The four newer pads should work if you can find them (newer is a relative term circa mid 70's) I would not however recommend any kind of a shim. |
| I just bought a new mountain bike and I wanted to repaint it imyself in a matte grey finish, covering decals, logos and everything. Is this easily done? Where do I find the paint I'm looking for? Thanks |
| If the frame's markings are on vinyl stickers, they will show pretty obviously under the paint. Best to peel them off, then remove adhesive residue with Goo-Gone or a solvent. Decal markings also may show through, but not as much. Matte grey paint is usually called primer. Dupli-color has a light grey primer in spray cans. They also have dark grey "hot rod" primer. Krylon has a medium grey primer. All of them work pretty well. It will stick best if you rub down the original paint job with an abrasive scrubbing pad, an abrasive cleanser, or steel wool. People here scream when you mention steel wool, and bronze wool is actually best for the job, but you need to clean off the wool residure before painting anyway, no matter what sort of wool you use. After you get an even coat of matte primer on the frame, you may want to protect the finish. Krylon makes a semi-flat clearcoat spray which gives a nice dull finish on whatever you spray it on. This surface will be harder than the primer surface, and will resist chipping and scratching better than the primer alone. You could also spray the semi-flat clearcoat over a normal shiny finish grey,enamel, but it will not look as flat as when sprayed over primer. Good luck with it. |
| Thanks very much. Now I can't wait to get started! |