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Archived: Restoration Tips
RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by: tyler
on 1/29/2002 at 11:24:38 PM
| hi all,
i've got an aluminum frame...i've removed decals and want to get rid of the "sticky stuff" from the frame. what's the easiest/most effective way of doing this???
thanks for your help. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by Stacey on 1/30/2002 at 11:38:25 PM
| Lighter fluid works well, you can also try a product called Glu-B-Gone, though I've had no experience with it.
In the wind,
Stacey |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by sam on 2/3/2002 at 2:05:48 AM
| Stacy, don't tell anyone but I use finger nail polish remover!---sam |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 2/3/2002 at 6:14:31 PM
| There's a thingie that you chuck on a drill and it removes decals without hurting the paintwork. Hardware store. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by mtlhed on 2/19/2002 at 12:13:06 AM
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by mtlhed on 2/21/2002 at 7:08:13 PM
| i did this just the other day. I used a product called goof off, and it seems to work pretty good. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by paul viner on 3/22/2002 at 2:11:19 AM
| eucalyptus oil is the safest and cheapest and it evaporates |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: best stuff for removing stickers/decals???
posted by darryl on 3/25/2002 at 3:00:57 AM
| Remove the sticky stuff with FORMULA 409 DEGREASER. |
RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: help with taking apart schwin speedo
posted by: john
on 1/27/2002 at 8:48:34 AM
| hello
need to get a speedo working again, body is in great shape. i f' ed up another speedo body by not taking it apart correctly. i don't want to butcher this one. any tips?
thanks
john |
RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Cottered Cranks
posted by: Bryant
on 1/24/2002 at 12:44:50 PM
| I'm fixing up a 1976 Raleigh Space Rider and am having trouble trying to get the cotter pins out of the crank. I don't want to smack it too hard for fear of bending them. Any ideas?? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Cottered Cranks
posted by sam on 1/27/2002 at 2:57:28 AM
| They make a tool for this job and it's the right way to go..............but if no body is lookin you can use a socket and a large "C" clamp----sam |
RESTORATION TIPS - RUST: Aluminim Alloy Parts - Polish and Pitting
posted by: Gralyn
on 1/22/2002 at 9:26:38 PM
| I get some aluminum alloy parts...stems, cranks, etc....and they clean-up beautifully with Mother's Aluminum Polish. But when the metal becomes oxidized badly enough....where there's little bumps of rust showing-up....I can't get it to polish. What should I do? A very fine sand paper?...then more fine paper...then polish....or is there anything I can do? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST: Aluminim Alloy Parts - Polish and Pitting
posted by sam on 1/23/2002 at 4:08:22 AM
| Sears sells a buffing wheel that replaces the grindstone on a shop style grinder ,and buffing compound.Be carful if you use one they spin really fast and can cause the part to go flying!But you can do more in 15 min.than all day of rubbin--sam |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST: Aluminim Alloy Parts - Polish and Pitting
posted by Gralyn on 1/23/2002 at 9:11:12 PM
| I wonder if a Dremmel tool will work? With the right attachment....Most of what I am working with is small anyway. Like brakes, brake levers, stems - the biggest thing would be the crank arms. I will look into it. The rubbing gets old....and then - there is nothing to show for it in the end. Like I said...if the oxidation isn't bad....the parts polish up beautifully and easily. |
RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST: Aluminim Alloy Parts - Polish and Pitting
posted by JimW. on 1/24/2002 at 6:17:41 AM
| I'd recommend wet-or-dry sandpaper. Hit the bump or whatever with wet 220-grit, then proceed with 400 through 800 grits, 1000 if you can find it. After 800 or 1000, it will polish up beautifully. It really doesn't take a long time, doing it in sequence this way. 220 is fast on aluminum. I wouldn't recommend using a dremel. There's nothing you can chuck into a dremel except a polishing pad that won't leave it in worse shape than the existing corrosion. (It's impossible to sand out gouges, which is what you'll get with the dremel.) |
RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST: Aluminim Alloy Parts - Polish and Pitting
posted by sam on 1/27/2002 at 2:54:17 AM
| I agree,Jim,Gouges are hard to get rid of.Had an alum. stem with a nice Gouge in it ,I used jewelers file then the wet / dry and finaly buffed it for hours--got most of it! |
RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: Dealing with rust
posted by: Dick
on 1/22/2002 at 2:09:55 AM
| For some insight on dealing with with rust when restoring vintage bikes, we can learn alot from auto restores. I found this website while looking for rust removal methods/products: http://www.restoration-resources.com/RestorationTips.htm |
RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: Early 50's Raleigh Sports
posted by: Dick
on 1/13/2002 at 6:14:02 AM
| I'd like to get in touch with someone that has an early 50's mens Raleigh Sports bike. i am restoring one and have a few questions about the paint scheme especially the gold striping as the original striping on mine is barely visible. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: Early 50's Raleigh Sports
posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/15/2002 at 12:49:21 AM
| There is a company called Buegler in the U.S. and they make a tool that has a little wheel that the paint goes onto and you use that tool. You have to set it for the right size pin striping or as it is properly called "box lining"
Go the the "Nick at LLoyds" website and look all thru it and have yourself a chat with Nick Tithecloth. He is the man! Especially for decals! I have several of these bikes and another fellow here is Edward from Vancouver who did a Raleigh Supurbe which is very similar. Go to the roadsters section and keep going backward and backward until,you see something he wrote and e- mail him. Similar exploded diagrams are here covering your bike under resources section. Raleigh, Humber, Rudge resources |
RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: Filling rust pits
posted by: parsimony
on 1/10/2002 at 1:19:14 AM
| I've stripped all the house paint off my Super Deluxe frame, and I'm removing the rust. However, there are lots of little pits where the previous owner had removed rust, as well as some actual holes in the tube that had been filled with some kind of putty. I've been filling the small pits with Bondo glazing putty, but it seems really chalky and not very substantial. Is there a better product for this, or will it be okay once I get some primer on it?
I have Bondo body filler (the kidn with activator) to fill the holes. Should I just use this for the pits as well?
Note: Bondo rust remover did nothing to remove the rust. I still had to get it off the old-fashioned way--sandpaper and a whole lot of elbow grease. I would recommend not using this product. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: Filling rust pits
posted by JimW. on 1/10/2002 at 4:14:32 AM
| For the sort of little pits you are describing, I'd recommend that you use primer spot putty after the frame has been primered. Also called "glazing" putty, it is made for this sort of use. Simply swipe it over the pits with a plastic squeegee blade. It sets up pretty quickly, and sands easily. You will probably want to apply more primer after you've done the sanding. You may need to apply it in certain areas again, after you see the surface primed again.
The putty is made by 3M and many other sources, and may be found any place that sells Bondo and other auto paint supplies. |
RESTORATION TIPS - SADDLES: Seat clamp came off!!
posted by: parsimony
on 1/10/2002 at 1:15:27 AM
| I've been cleaning up my Monark Super Deluxe, getting the rust off, etc. I was trying to clean up under the seat clamp (and applied too much pressure I guess) and the durned thing started to actually come off of the post! The welding spot was very weak apparently. Any suggestions for putting the clamp back on without a welding torch or soldering iron? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - SADDLES: Seat clamp came off!!
posted by Doug on 1/15/2002 at 11:05:20 PM
| Find a auto body shop that is into custom work I only say that any body shop can do it but the customizers understand us restorers better,They will have a MIG welder or a wire feed if you prefer which would be able to fix that in a jiffy if the metal is not rusted through and such probably get it fixed very cheaply will take longer to unload it from the car than the repair. |
RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: What's the most valuable bike to restore?
posted by: Jes
on 1/9/2002 at 9:50:13 PM
| Hi,
I would like to start a ballon tire bicycle restoration project and I'm wondering what's the most (or one of them) valuable bike to restore. I want to invest in a bike that worth the time (and money of course) that I will invest on it.
I was told I should restore a stright bar motobike like the Iver Johnson or the Mead Ranger, but could those bikes worth more than a classic ballon tire?
I really need to know cause I don't want to spend my money I prefer to invest it instead.
Any comment will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
|
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: What's the most valuable bike to restore?
posted by MNSmith on 1/10/2002 at 3:47:27 AM
| A Schwinn Aerocycle would be up there I would say. Maybe a Bowden Spacelander? How about the Indian that Dave at Nostalgic.net was selling? Finding some of these bikes would present their own set of problems!! |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: What's the most valuable bike to restore?
posted by JimW. on 1/10/2002 at 4:37:47 AM
| If you've never restored an old bike before, I'd suggest that you tackle one at the lower end of the price scale.
If you spend a lot of money buying a marginally restorable classic, then screw it up, you're throwing money away, as it'll be worth less than before you started messing with it. If you buy a basket case lower tier bike and do a so-so job on it, it will probably be worth more than you paid for it. Gordon T. Bradbury is a good source for starter restorations, as well as the higher-end balloon-tire machines. You can see some of his raw material bikes at: http://bikerodnkustom.homestead.com/gordon.html
His E-mail address is there, also. Be advised that there's a lot of work and parts scrounging required for a bike project that actually needs full restoration. If it only slightly needs restoration, you may be better off not doing anything to it. It is also best to do it because you think it would be a fun thing to do. If you are looking to make serious money off it, you'd probably do better at something else. Flipping burgers at Mickey D's probably pays better, but it's less gratifying.
|
RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: What's the most valuable bike to restore?
posted by Doug on 1/15/2002 at 11:11:51 PM
| If your looking to make money restoring bikes I have some enron stock you might be interested in.Just kidding when you count your time for all the work and scrounging parts etc most restores would have to sell for 5 to 10 thousand if you really keep track of the amount of time spent and pay yourself a decent wage to do it,Im sure some folks make a decent profit but I doubt that is the norm,good luck do it for fun. |
RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS: Dunlop wheels
posted by: Gralyn
on 12/8/2001 at 5:59:32 PM
| Not much posting goes on here!
I posted on the Vintage Lightweight forum: I have a Dunlop front wheel 26 X 1 3/8. I would like to find one for the rear - preferably fixed gear. Was there ever such a thing? Dunlop made in England. Hub says HR Pattern on it. Any info? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS: Dunlop wheels
posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/13/2001 at 6:46:54 PM
| This is an early front hub, well it's old like 50 years or so because they stoped printing H. R. attern on the hubs but they went on to make millions of these hubs. I6t's not valuable but it it's cool. Yes, there are 26 1 3/8 Westwood pattern and Endrick rims out there. |
RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Tires / Handlebar Tape
posted by: Gralyn
on 11/14/2001 at 11:35:41 AM
| So, where do you find tires and handlebar tape for restoration projects? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Tires / Handlebar Tape
posted by (419) 832-3040 on 11/14/2001 at 12:02:12 PM
RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Handle Bar Tape Resource
posted by: Gralyn
on 11/13/2001 at 8:56:32 PM
| I'm finding I am paying more for the handlebar tape than for the bicycle! I've seen it priced anywhere from $6 to $18 - just depends on which bike shop you're in. What goes for $6 - $8 in one shop may be $18 in another shop. Is there anywhere to get this at a decent price? Like under $5? Because really, there's not that much to it...except mark-up. Maybe supply and demand. But, does anyone know of a resource where you can order it on-line, etc. at a good price?
Thanks. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Handle Bar Tape Resource
posted by Kim on 11/15/2001 at 6:52:37 PM
| It might help to say what color and type you are looking for plastic or cloth ect....The tape for Schwinn Ramshorn bikes get expensive since its hard to get.
Kim |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Handle Bar Tape Resource
posted by JimW. on 11/15/2001 at 11:19:00 PM
| I got NOS color-matched bar tape for my Continental from Tony Cuevas for about $3.50 a roll. I think that's a fairly common price. |
RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Handle Bar Tape Resource
posted by Gralyn on 11/16/2001 at 12:41:50 PM
| That's the kind of information I wanted to know. It just seems what I find is a bit over-priced. I usually need different colors and types - depending on what bike it would be for. At the moment - I don't need any...but as soon as I get my next bike - I probably will need some. I just put some on my Ross Gran Tour II....I found some which matched the saddle (the original handlebar outfit was the foam rubber-type grip - which was in very poor condition. Now I have some cork tape which matches the tan color of the saddle. It really looks great. I have as much in the tape as I do in the bike, though. |
RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS: Tires: 27 X 1 1/8 Gum Wall
posted by: Gralyn
on 11/13/2001 at 8:27:57 PM
| Where can you find 27 X 1 1/8" gumwall tires? I have a couple of bikes which originally had 27 X 1 1/8" tires. I am having difficulty finding them. I went to one shop and told them what I wanted - they went back to their storage - then returned with the tires. I left with the tires...and when I got to the car - I saw that they were 1 1/4" tires. I took them right back. They said they would have to order them. They did....after several weeks I finally got them. But they weren't really gumwall tires at all...more like white wall...but not really that either. Where can you get those? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS: Tires: 27 X 1 1/8 Gum Wall
posted by Kim on 11/15/2001 at 6:50:52 PM
| It might help to say what color and type you are looking for plastic or cloth ect....The tape for Schwinn Ramshorn bikes get expensive since its hard to get.
Kim |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS: Tires: 27 X 1 1/8 Gum Wall
posted by Kim on 11/15/2001 at 6:51:59 PM
| This should be one post up
Sorry |
RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: 27 X 1 1/8" gumwall tires
posted by: Gralyn
on 11/11/2001 at 3:57:04 AM
| Where can you find 27 X 1 1/8" gumwall tires? I have a couple of bikes which originally had 27 X 1 1/8" tires. I am having difficulty finding them. I went to one shop and told them what I wanted - they went back to their storage - then returned with the tires. I left with the tires...and when I got to the car - I saw that they were 1 1/4" tires. I took them right back. They said they would have to order them. They did....after several weeks I finally got them. But they weren't really gumwall tires at all...more like white wall...but not really that either. Where can you get those? |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: 27 X 1 1/8
posted by MARC on 11/17/2001 at 3:04:32 AM
| CAN I REPAINT MY OLD BIKE AND STILL KEEP ITS ANTIQUE VALUE? THE BIKE PAINT IS FADED AND WORN OFF IN MANY PLACES.THANKS
MARC |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: 27 X 1 1/8
posted by Gralyn on 11/17/2001 at 4:18:26 AM
| Well,If you ever watch the Antiques Road Show on PBS - they're always talking about how the original finish adds so much value....and if it is re-finished...it takes away from the value. That seems to go for furniture, toys....and I would expect - bikes. If the original paint is just faded..maybe you should leave it on. |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: 27 X 1 1/8
posted by Vern on 12/31/2001 at 1:55:35 PM
| Try K Mart. Some of the older stores still have. I picked up a lot of these last year for a dollar. Probably aren't any left in Georgia! |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: 27 X 1 1/8
posted by Vern on 1/2/2002 at 11:07:36 PM
| My bad! Forget K Mart, all they had were 27x1 1/4. Try bikepartsusa.com Have used them several times no hassle (shipping a litte high though) |
RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Straightening Fender Braces (& other)
posted by: Kent
on 11/11/2001 at 1:39:27 AM
| Greetings, I am working on a '54 Schwinn Hornet and need to know the best way to straighten fender braces. I think the handlebars are also a little bent, can that be straightened? I'm afraid of ending up with wavy stuff. Is there professional machinery that can straighten metal (i'm new to all of this). Would auto body places be able to help with minor sheet metal straitening? Thanks in advance for help & advice! Kent |
RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Straightening Fender Braces (& other)
posted by A friend on 11/13/2001 at 2:21:49 AM
| Hi Kent, Have you tried a roller pin that would fit right nice in the fender brace? I use things like this too straighten old braces. Put it in a vice which has vise jaws; the aluminum ones. These protect chrome from scraches, and further damage. Just close the vice a little at a time until you like what you see. Remember," this is a old bike, charactor is at times a story in it self. When you ride your bike don't look down at the fender braces, sit tall in the saddle, and put a big smile on your face and enjoy your 54 Hornet as you buzz down the road of freedom. Try not too dwell on the small stuff. If you catch your self every now and then looking at that wavey old fender brace, wave back". |
RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Straightening Fender Braces (& other)
posted by Kent on 11/13/2001 at 2:49:42 AM
| Hi A friend, What a kind & thoughful reply, Thanks! If I may; This is a first for me. I recently aquired TWO Schwinn Hornets from the original, twin-brother owners, a black one & a red one. This last weekend was the first time on tearing into it. The results are AMAZING! I am as giddy as a little school girl about the difference a little (LOT) elbow grease and WD-40 makes. I am doing the black one first and it is in really good original condition. One of the braces had a pretty bad kink in it that needed straightened. I walked it down to an auto-body place right down the street and a guy helped out with a vice and got is worked out. Believe me! I am SOOO happy about having such magnificent machines that the few little "character marks" are a-okay with me, and a TALL & a SMILING I will be!
Thanks! Kent
>>"wave back" teeheehee |
RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Straightening Fender Braces (& other)
posted by A friend on 11/13/2001 at 3:04:20 AM
| Good evening Kent, I didn't realize you were at your computor. How conveniant". If I owned those fine looking rides you got off e-bay, and at the the price you payed, I wouldn't care if they had 4 bent fender braces. You made out like a pirate! I'm glad the bicycles went to someone who has taken a real fancy to them. "Enjoy your self, and remember too wave like your in a parade". |