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Archived: Restoration Tips





RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   ride posted by: rickey on 4/5/2002 at 10:47:00 PM
THE 26th ANNUAL HIKE/BIKE/RUN WILL BE HELD ON SATURDAY may 4 in valley THE annually fund raiser for valley haven school for the handicaped ..WE EXPECT A LARGE GATHERING THIS YEAR ...THERE WILL BE MANY CYCLRIST RIDEING BACK FROM MONTGOMERY'S CAPITAL 100 MILES--A 22 MILE-- 11 MILE 5 MILE RIDERS WALKERS RUNNERS ALL AGES MOTER SCOOTERS TO -- AND I PERSONALY INVITE YOU TO JOIN US THIS YEAR MAY 4 HERE IN VALLEY AL. WERE ON THE BORDER GA & AL INTERSTATE 85 AT THE VALLEY LANNETT KING FORD EXIT TAKE FOB JAMES DR. TO FAIRFAX BYPAS THE SCHOOL'S ON THE RIGHT 1 HALF MILE THIS IS WHERE ALL THE EVENTS BEGAN & END EXCEPT THE 100 MILE RIDE WHICH ENDS AT THE KROGER GRO.IN LANNETT AL.THERE WILL BE A AUCTION WHERE ALL DONATED ITEMS WILL BE SOLD TO RAISE MONEY FOR VALLEY HAVEN SCHOOL GOD BLESS PLEASE COME PARTICIPATE YOU MAY CALL THE SCHOOL AT 334-7562868 OR 334-756-7801 OR US HERE AT KNOWLES BICYCLE SHOP 334-756-7561 TUNE YOUR BIKE & RIDE SAT. MAY 4 2002 IN VALLYE AL.YOUR PLEDGES ARE WELCOMED





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   To paint or not to paint posted by: John F. Murphy on 4/2/2002 at 4:43:32 AM
I have a 58 Schwinn Corvette that is pretty straight. My problem is the paint is borderline with some good scrapes, and the decals are all but worn off. My question is if I decide not to paint it, how can I replace the decals with new ones without it looking out of whack. New decals with old paint!? Any suggestions?





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   paint on my 1934 hawthorne posted by: Paul Hendrix on 3/25/2002 at 6:09:41 AM
HI I did as you said sam and the bicycle looks a lot better and I can polish the paint to look great except the right down stay the paint is gone on the top of the stay and the top of the left bottom stay the side of the stays look ok I want to keep the bike as near to original as I can should I paint the stays or go with I have the rest looks good a little rust on the handle bars and one rim that will show a little the bike is cleaning up well . the seat is still left to do I would be greatful for any advice PAUL


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   paint on my 1934 hawthorne posted by sam on 3/28/2002 at 2:57:52 AM
Sence you plan to leave the bike as original as can be I advise not to repaint any of it.But do put a good past wax on the bare spots to keep from rusting.Here on this web site they sell a kit that is good for removing the rust on the rim and bars.Don't use steel wool use brass wool or the kit.And let us know how it's comming--sam




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   paint posted by: Dave on 3/24/2002 at 10:00:15 PM
I am wondering if it is possible to remove a home spray paint job without removing the original paint.
Thank you.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   paint posted by Gralyn on 3/25/2002 at 9:10:10 PM
I was going to try to remove a couple of layers of paint from my old Hercules. The original was black - but I had a layer of black/silver, then a metalic blue, then down to the original. I tried rubbing with different chemicals - being careful to not go too deep - but after a while - I just gave up. There may be a way to do it - but I don't know of any. But if there is - I would like to know also - in case I find another old bike and want to take it to the original paint.

   3M Safest Stripper posted by Steve on 3/26/2002 at 5:48:51 PM
I've used a 3M product called "Safest Stripper", available from most home improvment stores. It works VERY slowly with out harsh chemicals or fumes. It looks almost like vanilla yogert (but don't taste it). I can even apply it with bare hands (although the company dosn't recomend it).

I leave it on just long enough to lift the housepaint but not attack the original finish -- usually 20 minutes to an hour. I've even saved the original pinstripes under the house paint. (Pinstripes are VERY delicate).

Go slowly and work on only a small section at a time.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Schwinn Rear Drum Brake posted by: Eric on 3/20/2002 at 6:57:04 PM
Looking for Tools or Help on taking apart the rear schwinn drum brake for balloon tire bike. I have schematics but it does not show how to take apart the sprocket side of assembly. Need to fully disassemble to get the hub part rechrommed.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Schwinn Rear Drum Brake posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/29/2002 at 10:14:40 PM

You can find a surprising amount of info in a used book store. Look in the bicycle section. bicycling section old 1970 's manuels and books telling step by step how to just what you ask about. Look in every used book store in your area.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Schwinn Rear Drum Brake posted by mike on 9/12/2002 at 9:57:01 PM
It should would be nice to have a copy of those schematics. I have a few schwinn drum brakes. I've never taken them apart but then I haven't really rode them in the last 10-15 years. It'd be nice if maybe you can send them my way. I'd appreciate it very much.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Stuck seat post posted by: Tony Truran on 3/15/2002 at 2:40:49 PM
I'm restoring an old bianchi superleggera (steel frame). The aluminum seatpost is stuck. I've heard of two ways to dissolve corrosion in the down tube after first removing the bottom bracket:
1) pouring an ammonia solution though the bottom bracket

or
2) Doing the same with automotive antifreeze

Has anyone tried either of these methods, if so how long do you leave the liquids in the frame? Do I have to worry about the ammonia hurting the steel frame?

Thanks, Tony


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Stuck seat post posted by Kim on 3/26/2002 at 2:25:16 PM
I've had my best luck using WD-40 or some other lubricant.
Also, the very best way to get leverage on the eat post is to clamp a seat on it!




RESTORATION TIPS - SADDLES:   Recover and repad a saddle? posted by: Doug Dobrozsi on 3/14/2002 at 11:47:17 PM
My son's 30+ year old Motobecane RR bike (600c wheeled) has a Motobecane logoed junior saddle which has torn cover and foam pad. The base under that is solid plastic. Junior road saddles are hard to come by so I'd like to be able to recover it. Anybody have advice / instruction on how to?
Thanks


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - SADDLES:   Recover and repad a saddle? posted by JimW. on 3/15/2002 at 5:36:31 PM
The usual process is to carefully remove the old cover and padding. Then you take the old cover apart, by snipping the threads that hold the panels together. Then you make paper patterns for each panel, and use them to cut the new cover material panels. These are sewn together using the old panel stitching as a guide to hem width. I've found that one of those ancient Singer portables in the black case will sew anything of this type. They're incredible machines, and pretty cheap if you shop around. I've used mine for leather, and up to four layers of naugahide. You can get thin foam padding from most stores that carry upholstery foam. You use your old padding as a pattern for cutting new panels with scissors. The usual adhesive, if needed, is solvent-based contact cement. You put the padding and cover back on in a reverse of the removal process. Good luck.
Jim




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Rear Hub? posted by: Larry on 3/13/2002 at 7:59:05 PM
My question is, does anybody here know this brand of Hub? the name is - MATTATUCK ALL AMERICAN USA. This is the second time I have come across this Hub on a 64 Schwinn Fair*Lady. Did Schwinn ever use this company? I am quite aware that Bendix was the choice of hub. Thank you for your help.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Rear Hub? posted by Bob on 3/16/2002 at 12:06:03 AM
Yes, I have a 64 schwinn bantam that I am restoring. It was my first bike at age 3 and it has a Mattatuck hub same as yours. I wish my parents would have bought me a 64 ray to start on.

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Rear Hub? posted by Larry on 3/16/2002 at 2:58:34 PM
Thanks Bob.

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Rear Hub? posted by Chris on 3/29/2002 at 10:17:12 PM
A wide variety of hubs was used and each hub was evolving meaning getting cheaper quality wise. Bendix ended up in Mexico pretty early by the early 1970's like I said earlier, hit the old book stores to see these hubs and repair guides.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1934 HAWTHORNE posted by: Paul Hendrix on 3/9/2002 at 5:23:11 AM
I need help with a 1934 Hawthorne that has set in the same feed room on a farm for 60 years and is a family heirloom its all there good shape and orginal I want to keep it as it is.paint looks good and will clean up but the back stay has hard old greas and dust on the top side that is hard and will not come off and I dont want to damage paint How do I fix that The tires are Wards Riverside mate 2-5 air cushions 26x2125 #60-3125-3116 they look new can I use them the seat is red no brand name leather dyed red and has a few cracks but looks great looks like the dust has stained it a bit how can I clean that. The fenders and wheels are stainless and look great but there are some like mold stain on the front rim. the handle bars and goosneck are pited a lot but will clean up ok. there is a lock that is in the wheel that is a ROllFAST and no key I would be greatful for any advice THANK YOU Paul


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1934 HAWTHORNE posted by sam on 3/10/2002 at 1:26:17 AM
First mild soap and water on the bike only not the leather seat.Use a soft rag.Get the bike clean as can be.Do not pry off old grease.Use a light oil or dry cleaning fluid(being very carful)to solfin the hard grease--let the oil work don't get in a rush(like I do)oil all nuts and bolts ,don't get oil on tires or wipe off if you do.Oil will also eat rubber.Not to sure on the seat,saddle soap is my guess,lets hear from others on this.After it's clean it can be treated with a mix of neets foot oil lard and water.Equal amounts , put the lard oil and water together then heat.Or heat the water and add rest but under no circumstances heat the oils first. If you plan on ridding the bike get ridder tires and seat and save the originals.And clean and grease all barrings---sam




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1939 Shelby ? posted by: Jack Bennie on 3/4/2002 at 12:16:44 AM
We just acquired what we think is a 1939 Shelby. It has a Western Flyer badge on the front fender. It is a girls bike. We saw pictures on the internet that makes us believe it is 1939. If anyone has any tips for restoring this bike (original paint color, etc.) please contact us. The paint is faded, but it looks like Royal Blue and a pale yellow. All help would be appreciated. Please email or post here. janben@hyperhog.net

Thanks a lot.

Jack Bennie


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1939 Shelby ? posted by Joel on 3/4/2002 at 5:47:35 PM
To match the colors, try to find a place where the paint was protected (fork steer tube, inside BB, under chainguard, fenders,badge...). It could be a very valuable bike so do your homework and restore it properly. Try the picture database at Nostalgic.net for photos.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1939 Shelby ? posted by sam on 3/8/2002 at 2:15:20 AM
Be sure to look at the Dayton/Huffman bikes too. Shelby and Daytons looked a lot alike.And huffman made Western Flyer bikes at that time too.

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1939 Shelby ? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/29/2002 at 10:20:38 PM
Wald made a wide variety of repair parts. Schwinn, Shelby, new departure parts. hub cones for Schwinn, ball bearing retainers, axles, pedal striped? they sold a kit to fix it! Yellow tags, with plastic bags holding parts. All sorts of bit parts. I hit a casche of old parts and whats so cool is it's in cute little labeled bags.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   No Steel Wool!!! posted by: PaulO on 2/27/2002 at 3:42:34 PM
Just a reminder. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL!!! Use soft copper or bronze wool on chrome. Steel wool will scratch chrome, and the microscopic bits of steel will rust in the chrome.





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Black Phanton posted by: Shamas on 2/26/2002 at 7:08:28 PM
Restoring a '52 Schwinn Black Phantom. Anybody got a paint number for the red on the frame and chainguard? Thanx





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   peugeot 20" posted by: adam on 2/17/2002 at 11:44:38 AM
hey there, i picked up an old peugeot bike. the frame has a removeable bar to make it a girls bike or a guys bike(i think) it doesnt have a name or anything... except for the peugeot badge, some stickers, and a logo with french flags etc on it. if you could point me to a page or a similar fram that would be a great help.
thanks





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1920's Troxel leather seat. posted by: Jes on 2/15/2002 at 10:08:48 PM
I recently bought a very nice Troxel bycicle seat from the 1920's. The leather has minor crackings but it looks like "paper", I mean the leather is hard and dry.
I would like to know what can I do to help this leather to get soft. I don't pretend to sit on it but will like to prevent from serious cracking and preserve it for a long time.
Somebody told me I should rub some oil on it, but I don't want to do anything that can damage that ancient leather.
Any helping tips will be highly appreciated.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1920's Troxel leather seat. posted by sam on 2/16/2002 at 2:34:03 AM
What the leather needs is water.But if you just put water on it it will only make it worse.You need water,lard,and neetsfoot oil.Put the water and oil together.Then heat to a boil and add lard.let cool but not cold and brush on leather.And remember do not heat the oil and add water!--sam

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1920's Troxel leather seat. posted by Jes on 2/22/2002 at 2:30:54 PM
Thanks Sam. I will do it as you explain and I really hope I can preserve this beautiful seat.
Than you again.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1920's Troxel leather seat. posted by paul viner on 3/22/2002 at 2:08:32 AM
i dont know if this product is available in the u.s.a but it is the best for anything leather,it is called R.M WILLIAMS LEATHER SADDLE DRESSING. it smells wonderful and is really cheap. i have used it for over 20 years and i still wear belts from then.the process of tanning leather is quite destructive because it actually draws all the good oils out of it.if that product is not available go to your local tannery [smaller the better] and ask for a tub of leather fat. its the crud that they pull out of the leather.just smear it on to your saddle and work it in then wipe the excess off. dont dry it in the sun if you need to know any more just email me




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   bondo posted by: charles on 2/12/2002 at 12:20:46 PM
hello im building my first lowrider bike and need to know how to bondo it can someone give me tips and instructions or a web site that might help me out.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   bondo posted by JimW. on 2/14/2002 at 10:19:37 PM
There are some pretty decent instructions for doing a bondo tank at: http://www.lowrideronline.com/articles/how_tos/bondo_your_bike.htm