If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I purchased a schwinn with a jaguar mark IV chain gaurd on it but the serial # reads HO 82560. is this a 1951 frame? it looks like a 60's jaguar but the serial # does not make sense any one have any Ideas. |
| HO would make it a 7/1960 frame. |
| I have a 62; scwhin and I want to make the forks extened. Does any one know how to? |
| Find an old Huffy. Take off the front wheel. Grab a hacksaw. Cut off the forks at the crown. Take off the front wheel of your Scwhin. Grab a hand sledge an whack the Huffy forks on your Scwhin. Re-install the front wheel on the Scwhin. Throw the huffy in the trash. See your parish priest about offering up a prayer over your Scwhin (You'll need it). Ride off into the sunset. Good luck. |
| I am going to tackle the job of repainting my ballon bike and have a question about paint removal. This bike isn't worth a whole lot and I'm sanding down the frame and fork. My question is, what is the safest way to remove the paint that covers the welds of the frame tubes? I don't want to damage the welds and so am reluctant to sand anywhere in those areas. Any advice on how to get the weld areas stripped clean? Thanks! |
| You can use paint stripper available at your local hardware store. Follow the directions and use all the proper precautions! Unless you take a grinder or sand heavily, I doubt you'll hurt the welds much. www.bunchobikes.com |
| I hope that one of you restoration specialists can suggest a solvent to use on Cinelli aluminum bars from my beloved 70s Bottecchia Professional. When I removed the dried out padded Bailey III handlebar tape, I was left with hard red residue all over the bars. Someone have a suggestion that will restore the handlebars back in nice condition? |
| Fingernail polish remover showld work,then buff with polish wheel. |
| Though the original message is weeks old, might try some, I believe, Goof Off, available at X Mart or your home repair stores, common, keep away from other parts of the bicycle however. It removes decals. |
| I cannot figure out how to re-assemble a coaster brake hub. I cant get the brake shoes to stay still while I put the other peices inside the hub. Is there some kind of trick to this? I have tried everything I can think of. Please help this frustrated soul! Fast Eddie outty |
| The grease you are packing the hub with should hold them. |
| You also might try assembling everything and thread the axle in last. www.bunchobikes.com |
| I am slowly peeling the remainder of laquer of an old carbon fiber frame with the help of many rolls os scotch tape.Once I have achieved this,what type of laquer do I need to use or what paint can I use if any ?? Also can I remove the stubborn laquer with wet n dry (silicone carbine paper) and can I improve the bare fibre finish with something before I re-laquer?? Thanks to all |
| I am looking for repair advice for a Shimano 3 speed hub. I would like to find a web site shuch as Sturmey Archer with trouble shooting tips. The hub works fine except for a "klunk or flexing metal sound in first gear" Thanks for your help |
| A exploded diagram is all I have on Shimano. Free copy sent if you e- mail a post address ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com Try a used bookstore in the bicycling section old, used bike books are invaluable sources go to the shops ask to buy tools or see a Sutherlands book the Sutherlands book should set you straight and it has diagrams. Go to the big library in your area. Perhaps the shop will let you peek at the books they have. Good Luck dude! |
| I was able to fix my Shimano 3-Speed hub by looking at the patent diagrams on the US Patent & Trademark Office Website, the patent number was indicated on outside of the hub. The patent number on my hub is 3021728. Go to www.uspto.gov and search for 'Issued patents', select 'All Years' because some of these are old patents. Hope this helps! |
| I found it useful to have a Glenn's Manual. My wife has a 3-speed and Glenn's is very detailed. Search around for it online...It is a worthy investment! |
| I Have a 1958 western flyer need to change hard rubber hand grips any ideas on removing old ones thanks for any ideas.... |
| It does not matter if you wish to keep them the removal method is the same (for me). Take a narrow bladed screw driver and gently slip it under the grip -- even if it only lifts the last .5 inch up. Squirt hair spray between the grip and the bar and turn the bar so the spray runs into the grip. If it is really hard rubber use a very very small screw driver (.2 inch or 2 to 3 mm) to slip under the grip and reapeat this hopefully going deeper each time. The hair spray should be from a pump conatainer -- not from a pressurized container. Then twist it and it should come off. If not put a small rod (like an SA pin) under the grip, spray, and roll the pin, spray, roll the pin and pull. If that does not work get a big hughe tub and fill it with hair spray (extra firm) and sit the bike in it and let it soak over night. Keep it away from any flames. don't walk away and forget about it either! :) |
| I had one that I just couldn't get to budge no matter what. I took an old junk brake lever... the kind with a two piece perch, first I wrapped a bit of black tape on the bars for protection, then put the brake perch on... loosely. A couple of firm raps with my deadblow (rubber) mallet and the grip popped right off! It worked for me. Stacey |
| On really hard ones I have also used a razor blace box cutter knife (with a new blade) and placed a straight edge on the grip and repeatedly cut it -- especially at the end and then pried it up. Then this is a peel up and pull from that point on. |
| Hey Wings... Wanna come over and help me change a tire? LOL! |
| I have had a couple of tires I just had to cut off! Now, if it is hard to get that tire to slip over the rim (like 27.25 tires on a Schwinn Rim) jus spray some wax on the rim! It works great. The wax is for spraying on frames to shine them up but it works great to get those tight fits on! I think if you change aenough tires our thumbs just get extra strong also! Also stand over the wheel and rest the wheel on it side on a small stool or something -- this lets both hand be free and also utilizes gravity. :) |
| I did know how to spell at one time -- must be a day of working in the heat! |
| I remember a looooooooong time ago, I had to repalce a chain on a 10 speed. I deliberated for hours on which frame tube to cut to get the bloody thing off. Ya know, come to think of it... I still haven't figured that one out? |
| Yep!!!!! There is a book titled: "Ah Ha!" and it is filled with many difficult problems like that to solve. However, when one finds the solution to something they have pondered for a loooooooong time there is a sense of exhilaration, also know in learning theory as a "leap" -- in other words it is like an electrical shock pulsing through the body and one usually says "Ah Ha!" or "Oh yea!". These are exciting moments in learning and it is my hope that someday you to will say: "I got it!". Far be it from me or anyone else to deprive you of such a wonderful experience. Best Wishes! |
| I found it impossible to remove the rubber footrest from my motorbike when some rust removal and painting of the metal parts was in order, until I was told by my friendly mechanic that a bit of petrol poured on the contact zone between rubber and metal would allow it to slide off without any trouble. He was right too, it worked like a charm. The reverse was true as well, when putting on a new rubber sleeve, a bit of petrol poured on the interior allowed me to slide it on by hand. After that I just had to wait for ten minutes or so to allow the petrol to evaporate. No hassle whatsoever and the sleeve is rock solid around the metal bar. |
| I'm the happy owner and rider of a '72 filet brazed schwinn sports tourer. I ride it, so it's got remarkably little original parts, and what I really want is good working and good looking. Currently I have a mix of vintage Campagnolo on it. The headset is the original and not that happy. I like my fork and stem. It seems to use the same size as American OPC bikes... Anybody know where to buy headsets of this size? preferably of a better quality than the steel schwinn. please e-mail gruschow@gmx.de if you do |
| Can someone assist? I am restoring an old tricycle for a book I am writing, and I need the hard rubber tires. Does anyone know a source on these? I am willing to list the source as a supplier in the index of the book. My deadline looms closer, so the sooner the better. Thanks and I share all of your enthusiasm for bicycles as I have at least 20! Sincerely, Dennis www.dennisdavidauto.com |
| Memory Lane Classics lists some in their catalog. |
| Some sizes of these are very common and can be found at most hardwear stores.Or try Northern tools. |
| I found the easiest method for removing rust from chrome is wire wheel cleaner from the local auto store(it contains phosphoric and hydrochloric acid). Spray it on, let set for a minute, then scrub with a small brass wire brush from the hardware store. The brass brush won't damage the chrome. Flush with water to neutralize. Repeat if necessary. Then polish. Wear gloves, glasses and old clothes as these acids can be pretty nasty if you're not careful. |
| c'mon guys all i am asking is the steps to costomize my lowrider with bondo i really want an answare soon if you know how tell me pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzz |
| That's a pretty easy answer.The less you use the better.And I'm not being smart here that's the real answer.No matter how wild your kustom will be , use as little as it takes to do what you want done. |
| c'mon guys all i am asking is the steps to costomize my lowrider with bondo i really want an answare soon if you know how tell me pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzz |
| I see there is a "super rocket ray" light on ebay, the question is, if I am restoring a 1950 Hornet, should I stay with the normal rocket ray or would the "super" nos light add to or distract from the value after restoration? And while I am on the subject, should I stay with nos parts altogether? Bob Bob |
| Well, the regular Rocket Ray would be correct for a restoration. So would NOS parts. Are you going for original correctness, period correctness or just a quickie cleanup? www.bunchobikes.com |
| i want to know in steps how to costo mize my low rider with bondo |