If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| Does anyone out there know where I can find decals or reproductions of decals for a 1965 Dunelt and a 1966 Robin Hood? I am in the process of trying to restore both, and would like to get them at least looking as much like they did originally as I can. Let me also just add that I have found many of the restoraton tips here very helpful. Thanks! |
| I have a Guaranty Quality Supreme/Fleetwood model 26" criuser with no serial number I can see, great shape. It appears to be all original and fully funtional. It has the original bike store decal from Ames Bike store Algonac Michigan. Before my son and I convert this bike into a 26" lowrider I would like to know if it has any value in its current state. |
| I am restoring a tricycle which belonged to my sister. it has a 12 x 1.75 clipper punture proof tire,which has no rubber left on it. where can I find a replacement. Thanks for any help. |
| There are occasionally questions as to how restore an old bike - at least to rideable condition. My particular interest is vintage lightweights, and others, but my primary interest is in riding them. Here are the steps I take in a total rebuild: a) Wash the whole bike. Lots of soap and water. This lets you see what you have. Don't worry about water in the bearings, etc. as this will be taken care of later. b) Starting with any component set you like, remove the parts and treat as follows: c) completely disassemble. A digital camera can be invaluable in not only before and after pictures but also to remember assembly order of washers, nuts, etc. d) clean with whatever combination of paint thinner, Brasso, fine steelwool and rags works best. e) toss and replace the tires and brakeblocks work all the way down to the bottom bracket and headset f) replace all of the bearings in wheels, pedals, bottom bracket, and headset - bearings are cheap. g) Throughout the process work with fine steelwool and Brasso to polish every component to the greatest degree. Although this can take some time, the results are well worth it. h) put every component set in a baggie, thread twist ties through wheel assemblies to keep the various parts in order. i) replace all cables, and housing (but only if necessary - old housing look nice) j) once you are down to the frame only, carefully clean all bearing races, polish the frame using chrome polish and fine steel wool on the the chrome, car wax and a rag on the paint. Don't worry too much about scratches. k) reassemble using the new tires, brake pads, and cables. Take your time, be thorough, appreciate each part as you remove, clean, polish and reassemble it. Use grease on every thread, cycle oil on every pivot, and don't neglect any part or take any short cuts. If you have good mechanical skills, this won't present any huge challenge at all and will provide some hours of pleasure. Any comments or other advice? |
| Problem with your step "d". DO NOT use steel wool, no matter how fine the steel wool is. Use bronze wool like they have in the bike reconditioning kit they sell here at oldroads. The steel wool is harder than the bronze wool and the steel wool WILL SCRATCH your chrome. |
| I bought a 1941 Schwinn Challenger bike at a local auction it is great shape tires are a little dry rot but for a little rust here and there it is great.What I need to know is it best to restore or will it decrease the value.I buy and sell antique furn. ,glassware and things like that and know that when you restore funture it will decrease the value some of the times are bikes the same way. |
| Depends on what you mean by "restore". A clean up, done correctly, will increase value. A repaint type of restoration, done correctly, might help a bike retain it's value, but the cost of the restoration will eat a big chunk of the money. Done incorrectly and the bike will be good for parts or a project for someone who really knows how to restore old bikes. There are only a handfull of folks across this country that know how to do it correctly. If you are going to do a clean up / detail, don't add ( like paint touch ups ), just clean and leave what was originally there a little brighter and shinier. Remember, it is only original once! www.bunchobikes.com |
| I have early to mid 80s Bianchi frame that I would like to restore. I have been trying to get information on the frame model from Bianchi but the are unable to identify the frame based on the serial number or the pictures I sent in. So, I have a few questions about this restoration project: 1.) Can anyone help identify the frame if I send them pictures and the serial number? 2.) If I can't find information on the original color scheme for the frame, does anyone know what colors (besides Celeste) were used during that period? 3.) Should I paint the frame or have it powder coated? 4.) Will Campagnolo NR components be appropriate for the restoration? I look forward to any help anyone can provide. I want to get this right and it is tough without good resources. |
| I'm fairly knowledgable about Bianchis of that era. If you havn't already got it figured out, I'd be glad to look at pictures. I can't do anything with serial numbers, but if the frame has any numbers on the seat clamp area, that would help. The most common colors besides celeste were white and black. This is very dependant upon the model, however. Some of the lower end models were sold in blue and even red. If you want the frame to look right -- especially if it has any chrome -- it will need to be painted rather than powder coated. Proper paint is damned expensive -- begin at $500 and go from there. I'd love to restore my 82 Super Leggera, but it's hard for me to justify spending that much on what is really, by this time in Bianchi's manufacturing scheme, a very run-of-the-mill frame. Finally, Nuovo Record is perfectly appropriate, but possibly not on the very top-of-the-line frames from that era which would have been sold with Super Record. For the most part, the top two models were so equipped. Hope this helps, Noel |
| Dont buy the bike cleaning kit. It is a waste of money all you need to take rust off is A pack of the coursest steel that you can get at an ACE Hardware for like $3.00 |
| I've never used the cleaning kit, presumably the one sold here, but I can tell you one thing, it won't destroy your chrome like the coarsest steel wool you can find at the hardware store. I'm not one of those people who refuses to use steel wool, but I certainly wouldn't touch chrome with coarse steel wool. And bronze or brass wool, as found in the kit, is absolutely better for use on chrome. Following this anonymous guy's advice will cost you dearly. |
| Hey this is the annoynomus guy and Im just curios if you have ever tryed Courest steel wool cause ive used it and it does miracle getting off the rust and not pointing any scratches on chrome or metal.I do it all the time for bike building and stuff and hey you dont have to take my word for it caus you dont know me but next time your throwing away some rusty metal run out and buy the coursest steel wool and try it your hands might get a little poked but if u must where gloves its that simple |
| Hey this is the annoynomus guy and Im just curios if you have ever tryed Courest steel wool cause ive used it and it does miracle getting off the rust and not pointing any scratches on chrome or metal.I do it all the time for bike building and stuff and hey you dont have to take my word for it caus you dont know me but next time your throwing away some rusty metal run out and buy the coursest steel wool and try it your hands might get a little poked but if u must where gloves its that simple |
| HEy I was just wondering maybe you got your own way to take off rust with out using steel wool... So tell me what it is cuz Most people i know just use a cleaner and type of wool. |
| For very light surface rust on chrome, I use chrome polish (forget about the pits). For heavier rust, I use fine steel wool with a dollop of chrome polish. If you rub too hard, even the fine wool will scratch the chrome, but if you take it easy it'll be an improvement. Imagine my horror today when I saw a guy at the bike shop taking the rust off the spokes of a vintage Schwinn using sandpaper! Thanks for the brass wool tip, I hope I can find some as it seems the best way to go. By the way, I have also found out the hard way that Scotch-Brite? pot scrubbers will also scratch the chrome. This whole area of discussion has always puzzled me because we have always been told that chromium is one of the hardest metals. So why so easy to scratch? |
| Well, I'm not anonymous and I use the kit sold here at OldRoads. Actually I'm on my 3rd kit in about 3 years. It works. It doesn't scratch the chrome and the cleaning fluid polishes the chrome and paint to show quality. Those before and after pictures don't lie. (and I'm curious as to why OldRoads didn't just delete your anonymous slam!) |
| What I always try first is aluminum foil. I wad it up and rub the rusty surface with it. Aluminum foil is softer than the plating, so it won't scratch. It will usually work on light rusting. If it doesn't work, then I'll try more radical means, such as brass or bronze wool, or extremely fine steel wool. Chrome is hard, true, however most chrome plating is extremely thin. It doesn't take much wear to go through it, into the copper base-plating beneath it. |
| I'd like to find out what this mixture recipe is. I use minearl spirits, wd40 and carb cleaner, brass wool and brass wire tooth brush....steel wool and steel wire brush is ok if you like scratches on your chrome or you can gage the exact pressure you can use before youscratch the chrome which is kinda hard to guage.You can use steel on cast parts or polished aluminum but never should it be used on chrome.Maybe chrome here is being confused with stailess and polished steel and aluminum? Are you a metalurgist? Well I have studied metallurgy and also worked in a commercial plating factory. While more familiar with chroming procedures than cleaning it, it is still safe to say NEVER USE STEEL WOOL ON CHROME NEVER! Chrome polish and an old sock would work better and not DAMAGE the part. Buy brass wool or bronze wool, found at hardware stores. Steel wool is like using sandpaper! |
| Tell you what, use 0000 fine steel wool with some mothers polish. If you still see pitting, then get a bunch of item's that need rechroming & thats right suck it up and rechrome it. You can thank me later. John |
| HMMMM, now im curious, all this about steel wool, bronze wool & Brass wool, with most cleaning fluids under the sun named, yet i have not seen one mention of a product i find HIGHLY useful. AUTOSOL. Its useable on chrome, paint etc etc. have you ever tried using it when using bronze wool to remov light rusting ? it does the job fantastically ! mind you, i would NOT use it on fresh chrome plating. NOW BRASSO padding MAYBE, the benefits are HUGE, NO messy fluids, NO risk of spilling it, but most of all, its easy to use. ------- |
| I use bronze wool and Bar Keeper's Friend (which is the only polish I've found that polishes and removes rust effectively) |
| Hey me and a buddy restored an old Collegiate, Schwinn that we found and we are all done even with paint and stuff and now we are messing around with some small cosmetic stuff and I need to take out a dent from a chrome fender that is on the bike. If anybody has any advice that doesnt involve going out and buying expensive dent pullers and stuff please tell me Thanks a ton James |
| Find a shop with an english wheel. Or, you can place a bag of shot or sand under the dent and lightly tap it back into place. You will still have to have the fender wheeled to get out the wrinkles and humps. |
| Thanks very much mister Shannon Reynolds I appreciate any hep I can get.............thanks again! |
| Hi, I just got back from a garage sale. I purchased a Schwinn, Catalina for $2.00. I believe it's a 1959. I am so excited to restore it. Any good beginer books? Also any idea of value? Great website! |
| Hi Kristi right now on e bay there is a video for sale on restoreing bicycles for 19.95 great for a beginner cuz you can reference it over and over feel free to e mail me any time you need to ask a question too and this forum is also a great place for info as well good luck doug |
| I have an old Monark that I'd like to restore. I don't know much about the bike itself. I received it for free. I do know that it is single speed, with a rim size of 26x2.125. It has two fenders, and a light built into the frame near the fork. The light is turned on by a switch. It is a male frame.Could anyone tell me what year this bike was made and if it has any value. I have tried to look at any decals it may have and there are none. |
| I have an old Monark that I'd like to restore. I don't know much about the bike itself. I received it for free. I do know that it is single speed, with a rim size of 26x2.125. It has two fenders, and a light built into the frame near the fork. The light is turned on by a switch. Could anyone tell me what year this bike was made and if it has any value. I have tried to look at any decals it may have and there are none. |
| I worte earlyer that I found a shelby traveler. On name plate it reads shelby tarveler hercules cycles & motor Co Birmingham England. The rear hub has stamped on it hercules cycles& motor Co B type 4. Is it a good find? |
| I found shelby traveler I think it's called. I like to know what year it is and how to start restoring it. |
| I originally posted this in the Middle Weight section but I got no replies so I will repost it here. I just picked up a JC Higgins 26" boy's bike called a Mainliner. It is mostly complete but needs total restoration. What I need to know is, where could I find more info out on this model and does anyone know where I might be able to find decals for the the head tube and tank. I do know that there is a girl's model of this bike posted in the photo section and it's listed as a Sears bike. Was it common for there not to be a Sears logo on these bikes? The only part of this bike that's not going to be able to be fixed is the chain guard as it looks like the crank wacked it long and hard so it's missing a small section so I need to locate a restorable correct one. Thanks, Britt |
| I was just cleaning out my grage. Guess what I found. %4 Swhinn bikes. All are pre 1970. One even has a shock adsorber on the front wheel. What should I do? |
| Get a dumpster? |
| You really need to put more info. But from what the title says Paint all you need to do is take off most of the parts on the bike mask off what you dont want paint on and then wipe all the dirt off the bike and spray paint the frame wait a couple hours peel off masking tape..slowly then reassembly the bike and presto simple |
| first thing you should do is nothing.. then try and locate each bikes serial number along with the model name and write a list of tire sizes, speeds, condition of frame, paint, fenders, tires etc the more information you have the better. Then there are plenty of siites,including this one thatyou can research your bikes. You can determine originality and approx value. Original paint i would not touch no matter what. If you go for a true restoration the painting and decal replacement would be the final steps anyways. I would only recommend this if the bike had already been molested and an attempt at novice restoration already was attempted. Certain schwinns bring up to $4,000 in unmolested mint condition and only 25% of that in real nice restorations of same bike. So live with a few scrathes rather than destroying the beauty of originality even if it appears "nicer" Currently I am finding out that the bikes I get are "more fun" if the mechanics are working and the cosmetics are left as is. It actually gives the bike more character with some dirt on it, not as sterile. A quick rub down with a damp rag or windex will be enough in most cases. If you want a museum piece then do it right and don't try to restore it yourself and get quality. There are people who do this for a living not just a hobby. Ride the bike as is or sell it on ebay or here. Do whatever you want , it is yours, but I thought I would throw an opinion in there as well. |
| GO TO THE NEAREST POLICE STATION AND TURN YOURSELF IN. |