If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I have a vintage mud flap for my 1957 J.C. Higgins. Overall it is in great shape ansd is still flexible. But it has turned yellow from age. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it white (or close to white) again? Thanks |
| You can try Bleech-White (sp). It's a white wall tire cleaner/rejeuvinator available in the auto parts store. Be carefull though to keep it away from Black rubber parts as it will tend to try and turn them white if left on too long |
| I have Raleigh twenty grips on North Road handlebars & I'd like to get them to grip really well to the bars..they now slide a bit. One old trick I picked up over the years is to use hairspray (just areosol starch-no?) on the bar ends prior to installation of the grips. I'm looking for other tips from you other "pros" out there. I don't want to use anything that will screw up the grips (super glue-get real!) as these older NOS bits are getting costly! |
| The only other trick I've heard of is an old motorcycle/BMx trick of using double stick tape. |
| Hairspray works great. As also does putting the grips on with soapy water. the secret to both is adequate drying time. Then too there is a motorcycle product called "Gorrilla Grip" the MX guys swear by it! |
| My father-in-law was an avid golfer and this is how they put golf club grips on: Wrap the club with grip tape (double sided tape). Plug the hole with a tee and pour a little grip solvent into the grip. Slosh it around so the inside is coated, then pour the excess out and slide the grip onto the club. The solvent acts as a lubricant but it evaporates quickly, leaving a permanent bond. You can get the tape and solvent at golf shops. |
| I have an old track bike, but only know two things -it has Airlight hubs -the head badge has "London" on it (all else worn away) Take a look at www.audioresearchlabs.com/bicycles/ Any tips on how to identify the bike? I figure I need to at least do that before I start restoring it. Thanks! |
| I fainted after looking at the bike, was revived and sat there studying this marvelous machine. I don't know who made it but there were not that many bike builders in London over the years so at least you can do a search based on where it was made. No small task nonetheless because there were a good amount anyways. At least it isn't going to be like looking through the whole country of Great Britain. The C.C.M. crank is a track type as this is a track bicycle from the rear dropouts. C.C.M. means Canada Cycle and Motor they were bought up by another company a few years back. Try to get a list of old London based bicycle builders and look amongst their work to see if you recognize the lug work. I would ask Bob Reid in England and view his 'Bob Reid's Flying Scot' page on the net. There is a bit on Airlight hubs at the Cycles De Oro site. Under Great Britain in the componets section. Oh, those hubs, rims with long spoke nipples the whole bike is marvelous. That fork is special, I have seen similar forks of that style pattern on old Schwinns. This fork was selected by the builder because he really knew bikes! I'd love to hear the story where you found this. Hilary Stone in England would know, ask Bob for Hilary's web address.Good Luck! This is a real gem. |
| i am looking for information on a 10-speed kia mens bike. and a 10-speed western flyer mens bike. if anyone knows a good website for 10- speed bikes.thank you! |
| I have my father-in-laws bike, I think itwas built around 1940 or so by the "Standard Cycle Products" of Toronto, Canada. I don't know where to begin looking for bits and pieces for this old bike. I don't know what color it was or what the decals look like. It's well rusted, but is in working order. ANy suggestions on where I should begin? Tom |
| You might pull the fork and see what color it shows on the part hidden in the head tube--and grease the barrings too! |
| I found an old 1954 Raleigh "Robin Hood" at a thrift store. It has the original leather saddlebag. What is the best conditioner to use for the old leather. My first instinct is mink oil, but thought I'd get opinions first. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. chris |
| The best is something you will have to make.One part lard.One part neat's foot oil.One part water.In a pan heat the water,add the oil and lard. remember I said to heat the water and add the oil NEVER heat the oil and add the water!!! brush this on the leather in side and out(some say to place in plastic bag over night) then buff shine/use Kiwi brand shoe polish for a good shine |
| Sounds like it is worth a shot. One question though, what is and where would one find "neat's foot oil"? Haven't heard of that one before............ |
| Just my spelling is really bad!maybe neetsfoot?Just ask for it where they sell leather goods.Saddle shop or store that sells baseball gloves.Just ask like it sounds and they should know what you need!--I just gotta learn to spell one of these days!! ---sam |
| What color is the bike? 1954 was a good year! I had a ladies Robin Hood in this awesome lilac color! You did very well really! If it is in anything else than black you are even luckier. |
| Is it worth restoring a 1950 columbia built? it was my dads when he was a kid it needs new paint and rechromed. is it really worth it? thanks, Jordan |
| Worth? we talkin money or pleasure? If you plan to make a lot of money best advise is to run!If the worth is in the pleasure of ridin your dad's old bike then I envy you.Take it slow.clean and grease maybe new tires to see how it rides.Have fun with it---sam |
| Are the bottom brackets for 26" bikes of today the same as ones for a 1950's schwinn? |
| I have never tried to put one in a BMX bike or another bike that used the larger style bottom bracket. I would say they are -- but only guessing. The size is very close. If you are looking to replace the bottom bracket assmembly in an old Schwinn I would suggest finding another Schwinn (Girls frame as they are hardly ever ridden) and transfer the entire assembly to your Schwinn. |
| This may sound dumb, but are the old cruiser frames from Schwinn made of steel or aluminum? Are the tubes butted or anything to lighten them or are they straight gauge? |
| Steel. Made from formed straight stock. Look inside various tubes and you will see seams. www.bunchobikes.com |
| Steel and they are heavy! |
| Hi, I'm new to bike restoring and need some advice.What kind of paint do I use? Something from the auto parts store okay? Also, where can I find bronze wool for the chrome? How much does it normally cost to rechrome parts ( handle bars, fenders) Thanks for your help. Gary |
| Best advise anyone could give is to first go to Mark's web site.www.bunchobikes.com check out his Phantom project and other stuff.Reading is cheap--paint an't!Try the book "how to restore your collector bicycle" by William Love ,get all the knowlege you can then jump in and have fun--sam |
| Chrome plating isn't cheap. As an example, I recently paid $260 for wheel rims, crank, fork, seatpost, and a pile of small parts, mostly derailleur and headset pieces. |
| A neighbor gave me a Schwinn Typhoon mens bicycle today.It needs a COMPLETE restoration.It's black,has white rims with pinstripes.It appears to be a early 1960's vintage.I'd like to do a complete restoration of this nice bicycle,but have a few questions..... How do I go about re-creating the painted lettering on the bicycle?? Where do I find the serial number in order to determine the year of the bicycle?? Are chrome parts avalable,or do I need to have these parts re-chromed?? What was the finish on the fender struts?? Thanks in advance for any help,this is a great site. |
| I found the S/N..It's G426277 am I right in assuming this is a bicycle from 1952?? Thanks,Christopher |
| Your bike is actually a 1964 model. What you call painted lettering is actually water transfer decals. Memory Lane Classics might have them. www.memorylane-classics.com Chrome parts are available. Depends on which ones you need. The fender braces are cadmium finish. www.bunchobikes.com |
| Thank you for the info!! |
| I just bought a huffy 12speed and it just sticker for the headbadge. I wonder do they make matel headbadge for huffy? thanks. Mark |
| Yes they did make metal headbadges for huffy in the 40s through 60s or 70s.Try ebay. |
| Have been looking for forks for a Reynolds 531 frame I'm trying to turn back into a bike. Was given this really neat looking Tange chrome fork, but some bozo must have attacked it with an oversize wrench as the threads seem to have been damaged somehow. I can wind a nut over them easily, but the outside diameter has been reduced by maybe .025", so I think they won't hold a nut well. I'm wondering if there's some cost effective trick for fixing this? If I had access to a machine shop I might turn an inner sleeve to splice and braze a piece on to replace the affected area, but I don't. Thanks. |
| Check the thread pitch. You may have a Raleigh nut 26 tpi and a regular threaded fork 24 tpi. |
| how does one go about removing rustlumps under the paunt,they have actually penetrated through the paint but are still quite visible. |
| What you have is called cancer. The paint will need to be removed in the affected area, the rust removed by grinding or other methods, the spot recontoured ( filler, lead, brazed, etc. ), then primed and repainted. Hopefully, none of the structural integrity of your part is intact. www.bunchobikes.com |
| "Hopefully, none of the structural integrity of your part is intact." should read "Hopefully, none of the structural integrity of your part is affected." |
| i dont really want to remove all the paint because the frame has lovely lining and decals.its only a locally made bike but it looks quite nice when its clean. |
| Hey folks: Got a couple questions about restoring a real antique...A circa 1890's Keating "Grand" womans bike...All there except for a broken lock bolt on the spoon brake...The nickel plating is gone in a few places and I was wondering if anyone knew of a plater around the Ann Arbor,Mi. area that does good work and absolutley,positively won't lose any pieces... Leather saddle is still there,although it has a cut-out in the middle with a "basket weave"(Also leather) in it that has a 2 broken strips...I've had pretty good luck bringing old Brooks saddles back to life,but I'm wondering,worse case scenario,if anyone knows of a place that can do a copy of it... Rims are hickory(?) and I've been told the wheels are in amazing shape other then the need for restoring...Question I've got on these is are they safe to ride on yet??? Geez,they're light!! Got alot of experience riding on some pretty light wieght tubular/rim wheels, (Oh yeah,anyone got some NOS Campy parts they want to get rid of cheap for my Crescent 10-speed??? lol)but am I asking for trouble trying to actually ride this occasionally?? Gotta replace the tires,of course... Does Coker do these,or anyone still for that matter??? Thanks for any input I can get!!! Steve |
| As far as the saddle goes, there are a few people around this country that will restore what you got. Cycle Art comes to mind. www.CyclArt.com Others, who are knowledgeable in these really old bikes, should be along to answer your other questions. www.bunchobikes.com |