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Archived: Restoration Tips





RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Schwinn Pea Picker Restoration posted by: Dave on 5/17/2003 at 3:42:56 PM
I have an old Schwinn Sting-Ray Krate. The Pea Picker. It is all original with a number of options. I would say it's a 5 out of 10 condition wise. Complete but well used. Before I start a restoration I would like to know the production numbers for this bike to see if it's worth the cost output. Can anyone out there help with this imformation? Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave





RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/11/2003 at 11:39:10 PM
OK gang, I'm sure that we've all dealt with rusty, pitted rims. What I wanna know is what to do with the BRAKING surfaces of the rims. Doggone pitted surfaces are just chewing up brake shoes like gangbusters.

Would greatly appreciate ANY input!!!!

Thanks!

Boneman


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by sam on 5/13/2003 at 12:33:24 PM
That's the PITTS! Well the first part is just old timey sanding to smooth the rims.Got to sand down the surfaces smooth.Then the best is to rechrome--as this provides a very hard surface,the only other thing that can be done is to paint the rims(not recommended).Paint is too soft to be a good brakeing surface.---sam

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by Chris on 5/28/2003 at 8:52:16 PM
Don't settle for anything else than new, old stock rims. It is sometimes cheaper to replace rather than re- chrome.
Look for another set of rims!

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by CMK on 6/6/2003 at 1:52:31 PM
Dont paint them, the paint will wear off after like hitting the brakes twice. My new mountain bike came with painted rims and now the black rims got a nice shiny ring all the way around them. Try using a bit of steel (or copper is better if you can find it) and some penetrating lube (like WD-40 or Rustcheck) and scrub the rims a bit, that should helf a bit if they are rusty, but if they are badly pitted, rechrome or new rims are the only option.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   BENDIX 70 COASTER BRAKE HELP posted by: Steve on 5/9/2003 at 11:32:07 PM
Hello friends--I'm trying to breathe life into a '76 Typhoon that a customer brought in and I'm having some trouble with the brake. Are there any skematics or online resources available? Everything seems to be there but there is a lot of drag on the wheel in spite of a thorough overhaul (also performed by the customer prior to my receiving it--might be the problem). Any help would be appreciated.





RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Murray Cadet Flite posted by: Robert Srour on 5/7/2003 at 1:46:44 AM
I found this cute little bike that I am restoring for my daughter. It looks like 50's vintage. It was candy red w/ white accents and white rims. When I found it it was primer grey. I carefully removed the primer w/ laquer thinner to reveal the detail on the logos and striping. Can anyone reproduce the logos as decals from pictures?


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Murray Cadet Flite posted by Bill Andreas on 5/21/2003 at 5:55:09 AM
Dear Robert,
I'm a graphic designer from NYC. I'm actually restoring a bike myself. The point is, I can reproduce your logos. Send logos (via e-mail if possible) and size needed. I will respond with an estimate. If the logo picture is clean, it won't take but a minute. If I have to recreate the logo (for a professional/ authentic appearance) my fee is 15per hr. + decal material. Feel free to include custom colors if you want or colors in general. I hope I can help.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   headbadge posted by: Mano Lujan on 4/29/2003 at 5:30:02 PM
I have an old J.C. Higgins that is close to finish on the resto. I am looking for the pins that hold the headbadge to the frame. Any help would be great.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   headbadge posted by sam on 4/30/2003 at 11:05:11 AM
Memory Lane carries them I'm told.Would need to call.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   strawberry shortcake bike posted by: Allan Tew on 4/20/2003 at 2:12:43 AM
I have a young girls strawberry shortcake bike. I'm new to bicycle restoration. I would like to restore it for my wife, it was hers when she was a little girl. I'm looking for decals and exact paint colors. If anyone can help i would appreciate it very much! Thanks


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   strawberry shortcake bike posted by david on 4/21/2003 at 7:13:11 AM
Allen, if you get any tips plse share with us.
I am also looking for restoration help. I am looking for anyone tips as to where to get vintage decals or where can I get new decals (waterslide transfer type) made for my 1954 Raleigh Sports.
Good luck

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   strawberry shortcake bike posted by JimW. on 4/26/2003 at 5:49:47 AM
Transfers for Raleighs can be got from a guy in England. You should ask the question on the English Roadster list. They'll give you the name. For other, non-Schwinn bikes, your local silkscreen shop can make decals for you, but it won't be cheap. MicroMark http://micromark.com sells decal paper you can use to print your own from your computer. Silkscreen's best, though.

I hadn't realized that Strawberry Shortcake had been around that long. My 18-year-old had those when she was little, and I thought they were new then.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Cotter-removal tool posted by: Gralyn on 4/14/2003 at 11:40:32 AM
I know there is a cotter-removal tool - to remove the cotters from the cottered cranks. Can you still find this tool? Where? I have a couple bikes with cottered cranks - and I would like to remove the cotters without damaging them.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Cotter-removal tool posted by George Summers on 6/24/2003 at 5:23:22 AM
You can get a Park CR2 cotter press from Harris Cyclery.

I don't have the URL offhand but if you search Google for Harris Cyclery it comes up as the first item. Tell them I sent you.

Another way is to use a hammer, but I wouldn't. One miss and there goes your bike. Also if you don't do it right the cotter pin ends up being all mangled.

The cotter press does a better job any way. Holds the cotter pins in much tighter and with less chance of loosening than hammering.

If you can't get the press another possible way is to use a U-Joint press from an automotive tools supplier. I haven't tried this myself but it looks like it should work. I saw one for $40 Canadian or you may be able to rent one from a tool rental. These are more awkward, they are bigger, heavier and more powerful than a cotter press and you will most likely have to get a friend to hold it while you turn the drive screw. You have to put a large nut over the cotter because the U-Joint press does not have a clearance hole.

If you absolutely can't get either and you must use a hammer, cut a thin piece of plywood about 50cm by 50cm and cut a slot 20cm wide and 25cm long starting from one edge. Slip this over the crank spindle to serve as a "shield" for the frame in case you miss with the hammer. You will also need a length of 19mm pipe to serve as a brace under the crank and the cotter pin. Complete instructions are on the Harris Cyclery website under "Articles by Sheldon Brown".

Good luck with your project

George Summers




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by: Nate on 4/12/2003 at 7:57:06 PM
I have a really old bike that has some very weird paint. It is not rusty but faded and has a black undercoating showing through. I want to repaint, what type of paint should I use for the frame? Fenders?


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by Rick on 4/18/2003 at 12:09:41 PM
Nate,
The kind of paint you should use is totally up to you. But, although if you would like to have it look proffesionall, you would have to take sand paper and sand it all down so the paint is no longer on. Then get fine sand paper and sand it so the surface is totally smooth. Then go to any hardware store of your choice. Buy primer, and then buy ENEMAL PAINT. There all in spray cans.

Rick Johnson

MAD BMX HelpSupport/Builder

9180 Manko dr. Eastern Rapids, New York

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by Wings on 4/19/2003 at 3:08:51 AM
Another Opinion!

Go to an Auto Parts Store and buy Laquer in a spray can! You will have many more colors to choose from and you will have a much better spray head on that can then from a hardware store. (Check the Auto Cans -- they usually mention the spray head). Lacquer will dry in a minute and therefore dust is not a problem. It need to harden for a day or so. If you srcatch it you can also spray right over the scratch to keep the bike looking good. Use a self etching primer from the auto store also!





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   want to repaint adult vintage bike posted by: lola on 4/11/2003 at 10:54:22 PM
I just bought a vintage 50's Murray Montery. The chrome is fine but the paint is a faded red. How much should it cost to strip and repaint? How can I find someone to do this in LA?


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   want to repaint adult vintage bike posted by sam on 4/13/2003 at 4:10:21 PM
That bike makes a good beach bike--but not collectable.I'd first try rubbing compound or polish compound to try and bring back the paint.Go easy if you use rubbing compound to keep from rubbing tru the paint.If that doesn't work to sute you ,the bike might be repainted over the original paint by an auto painter--talk to several and you might get it painted as he's going a job--like $20 beer money on a Friday evening!




RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   Musselman Hub posted by: Bill on 4/7/2003 at 8:33:53 PM
I have just repacked a Musselman hub and can't seem to make it work right. It spins freely and the drive works but the brake either doesn't engage (freewheels and doesn't catch) or it engages but doesn't activate the brake much if at all. With the axle assembly removed, the mechanism seems to work and none of the parts seem worn out. It was not working before I repacked it. I repacked it with 30 weight oil and grease on the outer bearings. Any suggestions?


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   Musselman Hub posted by sam on 4/9/2003 at 1:37:43 AM
the book says: Brake shoe sleeve 10831,brake wedge 10830,brake spool&drag 10827,and driving clutch 10829 came as a 'cartriage unit' which replaced all wearing parts.Where to find those parts or a "unite" I have no idea.The book also says should have a small amount of end-play when reinstaled.---sam




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Cro-Mo Forks for 27" wheel size posted by: Rich on 4/7/2003 at 5:33:30 PM
Never figured the restoration on the Ross Paragon would be harder than on the Signature but here I am still looking for a set of Cro-Mo (not hi tensil steel)forks for my 19" Ross Paragon. Steerer tube diameter is 1" length of tube 4.5" threaded, classic lugged crown, has to be for 27" wheel size (not 700)1.5-1.75 offset. Tange#1 or 2, 024,531 will pay reasonable price plus S&H..Paint doesn't have to be oem. no rustouts tho. Contact me via e-mail





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   THE W BIKE posted by: VINCE on 4/3/2003 at 11:27:15 PM
HI THIS IS SORT OF A RESTO QUESTION. I WAS TRYING TO DETERMINE WHAT KIND OF BIKE FRAME I HAVE. I HAVE BEEN RESTORING IT, AND I AM NOT SURE WHAT THE HECK IT IS. ITS A RAD BIKE, AND THERE IS A "W" ON THE BOTTOM BRACKET NEXT TO THE SERIAL #. THE W LOOKS LIKE THE ONE FROM WONDER WOMAN. THE SERIAL # IS K1 13051. PLEASE HELP!





RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Restoring an old rusty Tricycle posted by: Angela on 4/2/2003 at 5:54:22 PM
Hi all you smart people!
I'm trying to restore a old Tricycle for my daughter and it's seriously rusty EVERYWARE! I need to know what the best way to remove the rust from the paint and how to go about repainting it. What kind of paint should I use?
Hey does that cleaning stuff on this website clean up rusty plastic?
Im sure someone here can help thanks a bunch!



   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Restoring an old rusty Tricycle posted by JimW. on 4/2/2003 at 7:11:04 PM
Take all the parts off the frame. Use paint stripper to remove the existing paint. Use fine emery cloth to remove the rust, followed by even finer wet-or-dry paper to get it ready for primer. Wipe it down with vinegar after sanding, then rinse with water. After it's completely dry, spray on several light coats of spray can primer, until it's completely covered. After the primer dries thoroughly, wet sand with 400 grit wet-or-dry paper. If this reveals pits, fill them with spot putty, wet-sand and prime again. If you're satisfied with the way it looks, spray on your finish coats, and let it dry for several days before putting the parts back on. I prefer Krylon primer and finish colors, but others will do about as well. Krylon doesn't drip and run as easily.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Restoring an old rusty Tricycle posted by Ronzo on 4/9/2003 at 8:46:16 PM
I have about twenty years experience doing restorations, and for a home project, forget the paint stripper and sandpaper, spend a few $$$ and save yourself a lot of time, mess and effort. Look up sandblasting in the yellow pages, call and get a price. I had two road bike frames (old ten speeds) in the past month, done for about $30.00 each with "sugar sand". Very fine grain sand that takes off all the old paint, rust etc., leaving it like it was at the factory. Get all the sand out of the crevices with a keyboard cleaner aerosol can or similar method, then wipe the bike down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil from your hands. Hang it from the garage door struts using wire coat hangers (unplug the garage door opener). Primer it with Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer, White. (Home Depot). Follow the directions on the can. Two light coats should do, one can should be plenty. It will NEVER rust again. Paint it with your topcoat color, then maybe a Rustoleum Clear Enamel for some extra shine. Let me know how you make out!

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Restoring an old rusty Tricycle posted by JimW. on 4/10/2003 at 7:53:38 AM
$30 is a fair-sized chunk of change to add on to the cost of fixing up an old tricycle; at least it is to me. Or am I the only one around here who's suffering from our economy going down the toilet? I'll stick with elbow grease, but the more fortunate among us should probably pay someone else to do the job. At least that person will have a job to do.

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Restoring an old rusty Tricycle posted by bob goatse on 7/22/2003 at 11:41:52 PM
Thanks for the tip about sandblasting! I was looking forward to a long weekend with a wire brush and the bike frame but I was able to locate a local company to blast it for $25.




RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   rare wheels and tires posted by: Maxy on 4/2/2003 at 12:24:40 AM
I got an older 10 speed Triumph with Sturmey Archer wheels. The wheel states: STURMEY ARCHER EA235 26"X1-1/4". The currnet tires (which I need to replace) says 26"x1 1/4". Will a Schwinn 26"x1-3/8" (37-597) fit this rim??????? The small info on the net seems to say yes.
Please let me know. I will restore the bike if these tires will work.
Thanks.
Cool site!


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   rare wheels and tires posted by Jeff R on 4/3/2003 at 1:06:21 AM
A 26 X 1 1/4 tire will fit a Dunlop EA 1 rim. A schwinn S6 26 X 1 3/8 tire will also fit the EA 1 rim. The S6 Schwinn 26 X 1 3/8 tire is a little wider than the EA 1 26 X 1 1/4 Dunlop tire. The tires should be interchangeable. The EA 1 rim was used it the early 50's. Thats whats on my Raleigh Clubman. When I couldn't find 26 X 1 1/4 Dunlop super lightweights for the bike I used the Schwinn S6 tire size.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Frame Type posted by: J West on 3/31/2003 at 3:56:29 AM
I have recently aqcuired a lowrider bike. My question concerns its frame. It is very similar to a Schwinn Fair Lady but it doesnt have headbadge holes or a schwinn serial. can anybody help with hints on what type of frame this could be? thanx


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Frame Type posted by JimW. on 4/10/2003 at 7:59:57 AM
Are you planning to restore it? If not, it shouldn't really matter. It's probably one of the Taiwan repros designed for people to make lowriders with. Although I wasn't aware that they made repro girl's bike frames. The Fairlady frame isn't a whole lot different from a lot of others, so it could be almost anything.