If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I am new to all this! Bought a Columbia 500 tandem at a flea market. Just wondering where I might look for the serial number on this model. Also, are the serials on a seperate tag (like on a car) or are they stamped on the frame or what??? Thanks in adavnce! |
| Look at the rear dropouts, or look under the crank tube. |
| can't seem to get both the front and rear lights to work, front works alone, and when I wire in the rear the front is the only one that works. new bulb and wire have been tried. |
| You make no direct statement as to wether you can get the rear light to light alone. It sounds like a grounding problem to me... Try running a jumper wire from the tail light ground point, usually the mount to the generator ground point. This should light the light. The next step is to determine where the open is in the ground path. I had a simmilar situation though it involved the head light. Seemed as tho' the open was at the head bearings. A short jumper from the headlight to a grounding point on the headbadge was all it took... viola! Lights! |
| Does anyone know how to read redline serial# ? I have a early to mid 80's proline and would like to know exact year.Also any idea when the stickers changed from the red yellow fade to the red on black and grey. thanks |
| Hello, I have a 1980s Italian bike that needs the forks repainted white. My question is what durable paint can I use (brand and type that will allow fairly accurate matching)? I do not want to buy a large quantity for such a small project. I do have the equipment and facilities to allow for a professional application. Thanks, Mike. |
| When selecting paints for my old Sunbeam, I had very good luck with Dupont Centari automotive paints. They have a huge color selection, so matching was relatively easy. A pint cost $20 and was sufficient for the entire bike. No clear coat was required on top. Thinned down, the paint was suitable for a Preval cartridge sprayer and the results (after wet sanding) were magnificent. |
| I have a Belknap tandem bicycle that I acquired from an estate auction. I can't find any information about Belknap bicycles other than that one was restored by dave@nostalgic.net., but it wsn't a tandem. I want to fix it up to ride. Any info out there? |
| Belknap was a hardware distributor in Louisville KY. They sold their goods to small-non-chain department and hardware stores. Their house-brand bikes were made by various companies, including Murray, Raleigh, etc. You can pretty much identify the maker of a given Belknap-branded bike by the detail characteristics of a given company. For example If It's a Belknap "Bluegrass" 3-speed "English-style" bike, it's a Raleigh- and so on. This was common practice with many hardware and department store chains. |
| Howdy-- Can someone tell me what size seatpost I need for a '52 Scwhinn cruiser? I started with bare frame, and that's the only part I'm having trouble fitting. The closest I've been able to come is a 13/16, but I'll need a beer-can shim to make that work. 7/8 is too big, and none of the BMX posts we've got laying around are right either. This isn't a real restoration, as I don't have any original parts, but I think even some of you authenticity buffs would take a second look when I'm done with this clear powder-coated, seven-speed townie. She'll be a looker, if I can only get that Brooks saddle to stay at the right height. Thanks for your help. Happy Trails, Ron Georg Moab, Utah |
| They sell one here on this site. Click on parts for sale at the top of the page, and then click on balloon tire parts. |
| I have an early 1980s Eddy Merckx. Seatpost opening is 7/8" (22 mm). Can someone tell me what seatpost size I need? |
| I just tore the hubs apart on a recently aquired '67 Shwinn. The front was bone dry. The races are perfect but the cones are scored. Anybody know where I can get some of those? Also the bearings were caged 7ball, 7/32". Is it possible to get these anywhere or should I just go with loose balls? Thanks, Mike |
| just ask the local bike shop they usally have some lyin around |
| I just picked up a 1967 Schwinn with a 2 speed Bendix kickback. I swear I have seen a website that goes through a rebuild but I can't find it now. anybody have a link to something for me? Thanks, Mike |
| Check Bunchobikes.com in the repair section. Good Luck |
| Check Bunchobikes.com in the repair section. Good Luck |
| Used bookstore, in the cycling section. JUST DO IT! Awesome old books with pictures! |
| I just repainted my 1965 Sunbeam three-speed using DuPont Centari metallic green in as close a match as possible to the original. I used some 3M auto masking tape to mask off the decals, which are irreplaceable. The results have been spectacular, but I wonder if another approach might have allowed me to get a better edge on the decals. Does anyone know of a masking liquid which can be painted on top of the decal films, masking them against spray paint, and then be easily removed afterwards? Such a liquid, if it exists, would allow a fine edge between the new finish coat and the existing decal, better than one can achieve using masking tape. While I was able to fill in some of the edge using a 000 brush, the results are just slightly noticeable. |
| Masking liquid should be available at any hobby & model shop. Though it won't solve your problem. You see the paint it's self is the culprit, not the masking material. For sake of discussion lets assume that a layer of paint is approx .005" thick and you've used a primer, two color coats, and a clear top coat. In just four coats you've built up a film thickness of .020"... quite noticable from smooth! What the brush work does is lay down a fillet to smooth the transition of the layers. Probably giong to be as good as it gets unless you sacrifice the transfers and replace them (if that's possible). |
| You're correct, although I may fill in the difference in film thickness by clearcoating the transfers so as to smooth the surface. |
| Hello all, I'm just returning to riding after a 30 year or so absense and purchased a '73 Paramount on E-Bay. The bike appears to be completely original and in excellent condition. As expected the aluminum needs cleaning and polishing, new spokes, bearings and such. My Question is about the paint. It is black and in truly excellent condition except for several BAD scatches on the head tube. I don't want to do a total restoration as the bike really looks good. My questions are: 1, Can it, or should it, be touched-up? Because the paint is black the scratches don't leap out at you but you do see them when you look. 2, Who does that kind of work well. Any other tips about polishing everything without scratching would be helpful. Thanx, Paul |
| Welcome back to the fold Paul! One thing to keep in mind is... It's only original once! Can it be touched up? Of course. Should it be? Well, there my friend you open a discussion that runs eternal. There are hard line camps on both sides which make valid arguments equally well. I tend to agree with the purist folks who's cry is "It's only original once" Anything cosmetic (that can be seen) replaced or altered detracts from that originality and therefor any intrinsic value as such. This is wonderful logic for the 'trailer queen' or 'wall hanger' but terribly impractical for a rider and after all they were made to ride... right? For those head tube scratches, I'd get some Kiwi black shoe polish and work the area with that. There are some pigmented waxes available at Pep-Boys etc, but the Kiwi is cheaper and works just as well, 'specially on black. If you have rusty chrome plate use ONLY copper/brass wool. Think 'Chore Boy Pot Scrubber' You know, in the dish soap section at the grocery. This will get the grunt work done. Add a bit of WD-40 if you like, it's all good. Follow up with some automotive chrome polish/cleaner. For that WOW sparkle I like to finish it up with some "Never-Dull" Just grab a wad of batting, rub it up, let it dry to a haze, and polish it off. Viola! Beauty!!! The alloy bits are easier. Start with the chrome polish... yeah I know what the directions say. Ignore them :-) But be careful. Some alloy bits have a clear anodize over them... you'll be ages cutting through that! Once you've got the grunge off with the chrome polish, yep... Never-Dull :-) Take your time and have fun with it, you've got a fine mount there, enjoy! Just remember... It's only "Original" once :-) |
| Stacy, Thanks for your reply. I particularly like the shoe polish idea. About the rest of the bike. The chrome is perfect but the components need a good bit of work. I believe that someone stored the bike for most of it's life. Every bearing run rough, the break cables "pull" is very irregular. All in all in need of alot of cosmetic work and lubrication. With the exception of scratches I beleive that the bike will look nearly new, just a nice petina on the black paint. I was very lucky on this purchase. Now another can of worms but considering the forum I believe I can anticipate the response. This bike will be my rider. I am undecided about keeping it totally stock or using it as a show case for components that I like. For example, I have a mint set of Delta brakes that are about 8 years newer than the bike. I would consider clinchers with newer low flange hubs, that kind of thing. I am really undecided on how to go on this and if I didn't have the Deltas I'm sure I'd go totally stock. Any thoughts? Thanks, Paul |
| IMHO Paul, as long as you don't do anything that can't be undone... go for it! Just be sure to save all of your 'take off' parts. That way it's just a matter of an hour or two work to return it to it's original configuration. For a wider variety of opinions, I'd suggest you post in the Vintage Lightweight forum. Your Paramount surely clasifies, and the Restoration board gets little traffic. You're welcome :-) Stacey |
| Make it a rider, but keep the original parts in your attic, just in case it becomes a super collectible. |
| Don't touch it up with paint. Just get a cleaning kit and bring it to it's best original condition. Painting can decrease the bike's value. |
| Hello. Is there a tool which would allow you to make your own brake or shifter cables? One that you could use to make custom length jobs, and press a nib to the ends wherever you wanted them? Thanks. Michael |
| Not to be argumentative Michael, but the only relevant applications I can think of would be the S/A & Shimano 3 spd cables and a handfull of x-over cables on some center pull brakes. I have tried the crimp on nib route for a Shimano shifter... it didn't work for me. :-( I have contimplated going the lead casting route. But the cost/return would be phenominal! Just to make or have made a mold would be quite an undertaking in itself. Then factor in the cost of a crucible, etc just to melt & cast a couple cc's of lead?!!? I'll stick with the $3.00 solution for my shift cable... a bolt-on replacement cable end. Available in both flavors right here. As for brake cables, eh... I'd scrounge for OEM cables myself. This is one of those situations where a catastrophic failure could be er, how do you say it? Catastrophic! Just my 2% of a dollar. :-) Stacey |
| I have a road bike I'm wanting to paint, it's aluminum, any special prep needed to be done to the metal? Do you just primer like you would steel, do you need special primer for aluminum or will it adhere to the bare surface? |
| Do you even need a primer? |
| you must use zinc chromate primer to paint over aluminum |
| I am restoring a pea picker krate and have to paint the frame. Does anyone know a current automotive type paint _(base coat clear coat )paint code that would be a close match to the campus green that was on the pea picker? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!! e-mail nitrous@netnitco.net |
| I think www.hyper-formance.com has just what your looking for or prob can point you in right direction |
| I just purchased a single-speed from Bikes Not Bombs and was hoping someone could help me on two fronts: * It's pockmarked with rust blisters. Nothing serious, but I'd like to keep it running. Brass wool followed by a clearcoat? What should I do? * Strange bike. I can't identify the manufacturer. It's got "5000" on the seatstay, and a small heart welded on the downtube near the bottom bracket. I'm guessing Colnago? In advance, thanks. |
| I saw a bike with "5000" on the seat stays. There were no other identification markings or stickers, or headbadge, etc. to identify the bike - only that "5000". Judging by the components (I know it had steel cottered cranks)- and it's weight, I was guessing it was something like a low-end bike boom bike....like maybe a Free Spirit, possibly a Nishiki straight steel frame....something like that. Does anyone know what bikes may have had "5000" on the seat stays? |
| I've seen sekai bikes with model numbers similar to this. highest I've seen was a sekai 2000 |
| By the way....they are both men's frames, 26"....forgot to mention that......... |