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MOTORIZED BICYCLES: 1976 Olympic St. Etienne
posted by: lstevenson
on 11/16/2009 at 4:43:56 PM
| I would like to get approximate price to sell a 1976 Olympic Type E Purple Colour St. Etienne with Lucifer electric gerator and midland leather carrier. Excellent condition, rarely used. by: 24.80.251.42 |
AGE / VALUE: amf
posted by: ed
on 11/15/2009 at 12:49:35 PM
| amf mopeds running with papers
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MOTORIZED BICYCLES: want to price my motorized bicycle
posted by: lucie
on 9/27/2009 at 5:40:27 PM
| Hi, I rebuilt a 1941 motorized bicycle and I will like to know where to go to get info. on its price? It is a Saginaw with a Brigg and Stratton motor. I have the patton number, it was invented by Terrence G. Hare. It is in perfect shape and works very well. I found the original color on a part of the bicycle and repainted it. thanks to all! by: 66.244.246.73 |
MOTORIZED BICYCLES: Cyclemaster motor bike
posted by: Larry Wlos
on 9/24/2009 at 6:57:32 AM
| CCM bike with Cyclemaster motor wheel installed ,original condition,runs,new tires.50's vintage. 708 267 0285 by: 71.239.167.140 |
| Are you selling it? by: 74.243.236.196 |
AGE / VALUE: what is the value
posted by: craig wandalowski
on 8/26/2009 at 2:21:29 AM
| what is the price im looking at that my 1920's mead crusader with motor is? by: 70.179.50.244 |
| It would depend on what motor you have and the condition of the bike.
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MOTORIZED BICYCLES: is this original
posted by: craig wandalowski
on 8/26/2009 at 2:17:51 AM
| i have a 1920's mead crusader with motor is it original stock with motor or was the motor taken of the mead ranger? its the same motor that is on the ranger that is on my crusader? by: 70.179.50.244 |
AGE / VALUE: Bike Bug Repair Pointers
posted by: Mike Schneider
on 8/4/2009 at 10:26:49 PM
| The Repair Pointers below may be helpful on any type Bicycle Engine - especially the Electrosis method of removing rust form a gas tank. BITW (Brothers In the Wind) Mike Repair Pointers Before Parts Arrive The literature is $25. Probably you are going to need a fuel pump kit $25. The rubber diaghram gives out with time and exposure to gasoline. The drive wheel rubber may gone or in good condition. You can tell by looking at it and squeezing it. This hard firm & good shape - OK. If not a new drive wheel is $28. Newer engine models than yours (I am guessing age of yours) were equipped with a primer pump $25. Engines equipped with it do start easier and the pump will last longer. Plus it gives a method to test the fuel pump is properly installed - the engine block can be busted if the engine is attempted to start with a block full of fuel. If you plan to mount the engine on a newer model bike (1970 – up) the forks are 5-1/2” wide center to center tan bike forks were in the (1960s). You will need a mounting kit - $15 to spread out the frame of the engine and have the drive wheel run true. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE OLD HOSES TO "Carburetor and Fuel Pump" WITHOUT RECEIVING THE LITERATURE FIRST. Fuel lines may be hardened and cracked - you can buy replacements for $5.00 (These do not cause air bubbles problems in the carburetor (which will probably need cleaning to - simple to do - Don't turn adjusting bolt on bottom). Will provide you some tips on doing this that will prevent allot of headaches and repairs in literature. REPAIRS YOU CAN DO PRIOR TO RECEIVING LITERATURE. Other than that - what is the condition of the gas tank? If it was drained. It would be good to flush it with a little fresh gas. If not put some bolts & nuts in with some camping fuel (white gas) and shake them it around to knock off the old varnish and rust. If it is badly rusted there are commercial gas tank cleaning kits other folks have used from automobile part stores that work well. I have put some of my old gas tanks in the dishwasher with dish washing power inside - very caustic and will get out rust. Might knock off paint though so you have to make a judgment call on that plus what the wife thinks about that. An electronic method that works well on some tanks is as follows: use a power washer to remove all loose rust and sediment. I then fill the tank with water and add a tablespoon of Arm & Hammer soda for every gallon of water. Then get a battery charger and connect the positive (red) terminal to a piece of wire attached to a stainless electrode (such as a stainless bolt or a stainless spoon) and lower the wire and electrode into the water making sure it does not touch the bottom or sides. This is the anode. Then attach the negative terminal to the tank itself (The cathode). If your charger has a meter, be sure some current is flowing. Fine bubbles will rise from the stainless anode when cleaning is in progress. Typical cleaning time for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. Heavily rusted objects can be left over night. Then wash the inside of the tank again and dry it out with compressed air or a hair dryer. The foot valve in the gas tank may be frozen too. You can free it up with BD Breaker (automobile part stores) after you cut the old felt off. If it does rattle when you shake it - boil it on the stove top in cooking oil (there again - be careful about the wife's opinion on that). You can buy new felt - cut some round holes it and slip it over the valve. If the valve still won't rattle or you can't blow but can suck through it. It may be shot. Have replacements for $15. You can also check for fire or spark on the engine by taking out the spark plug and turning the drive wheel by hand. 1st look for the spark and if none try the twinkle test by holding the spark plug and turning the drive wheel. If no twinkle then remove the three bolts on the flywheel cover (where starting instructions are posted). Take a 12 or 13 mm socket mounted on a rechargeable drill and turn the engine with it. No spark try a electric cord drill (Be careful doing this). Don’t want to turn the engine too fast without getting everything freed up first. by: 174.148.81.54 |
| I have a BikeBug which runs but needs new fuel lines and a new drive wheel. All the rubber on the drive wheel has disintegrated. Any ideas? by: 131.191.80.105 |
AGE / VALUE: Bicycle Swap meet Larz Anderson
posted by: Joe Rapoza
on 8/2/2009 at 5:08:15 PM
| Greetings everyone, Joe Rapoza here from the Larz Anderson Musuem bicycle show and swap meet. Up for bids is one swap meet space at the Larz Anderson Bicycle Swap meet and Show. This will be a spectular show something for the whole family. You are bidding on choice of any vending space in the field that is designated bicycle vending space. Preimum spaces are located directly on the side of the MC podem and to the entrance of the show concoure We will be having a show and swap meet on August 9, 2009 8:00 am to 3:00 pm vendors spaces are 25.00. for a 10 x 10 space. We will be haveing a dedication ceremony for the great Jack Kowal "Mr. Columbia". and Sheldon Brown This year we will be having a separate section dedicated to frame builders, all frame builders will be admitted to the show free of charge. We expect that at least 1000 people will attend this years Sponsorship spaces are available. Please RSVP email me to let me know if you are planning to attend. Please provide email address and phone number. I thank you very much and look forward to hearing from you. Joe Rapoza 508-558-5129 by: 24.41.90.143 |
AGE / VALUE: found old bike
posted by: j. marvin
on 6/29/2009 at 7:31:34 PM
| Found an old red bike with serial no. WZ1352 on left rear wheel stay and FLEET and a grey hound on the head badge which was painted over. It had a motor attached which is gone. Can I trace it somewhere with the serial no.? It has a Messinger seat. Is it a Schwinn? Did they make a model named the Whizzer? Thank you for any reply you experts you. by: 24.247.47.17 |
AGE / VALUE: Raleigh bicycle help
posted by: Andy
on 6/18/2009 at 1:56:29 PM
| I have a Raleigh 3-speed bicycle. I have been using synthetic grease in the area where the cable goes into the hub. (It changes speeds) It seems like I am having to readjust it too frequently. I think the grease is too heavy and it clumps up. I am looking for some recommendations. Thanks, Andy by: 4.231.154.67 |
| Sounds more like the cable is stretching. I would replace that, first. Cables available on the BAY,& bike shops online. by: 209.26.58.179 |
FOR SALE: 1947 Laray Power Cycle
posted by: Allen Phan
on 6/16/2009 at 6:23:36 PM
| I have a 1947 Laray Power Cycle for sale on ebay as of 6/13/09. The bike isn't complete but has all the major parts minus the engine. Check it out, just search laray by: 98.148.213.251 |
| Did the Laray ever sell? I'm interested if it didn't. Please tell me "Mikey" didn't get it! LOL by: 76.28.36.138 |
MOTORIZED BICYCLES: cables
posted by: Ike
on 6/16/2009 at 10:49:22 AM
| I'm looking for gas cables for Raod Arrow motorized bike. Also need a headgasket too. I'm guessing this bike was made in the late 40's. Motor was made by Earnshaw Motors in Lynwood, CA. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks by: 148.78.245.12 |
MOTORIZED BICYCLES: royce union mosquito
posted by: steven
on 5/31/2009 at 6:45:32 PM
| i have a 60,s royce union mosquito 26inch three speed bike with a motor right under the pedals flip a lever back tire starts motor anybody seen-herd-or have parts for this bike by: 76.222.232.233 |
| I have never seen that motor on A Royce, but they were used a lot. What parts do you need ? I know of some who had magneto problems, that they were able to repair. Here is a link. http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'pattle/nacc/arc0490.htm by: 138.210.101.170 |
| i need a set of points by: 76.246.191.88 |
| I had a bicycle with the Italian mosquito 49cc engine in S. Africa in 1961.Loved it by: 87.69.216.210 |
MOTORIZED BICYCLES: motor in front wheel
posted by: Bill
on 5/27/2009 at 10:51:15 AM
| Iown a 1950 H.D. Schwin with a 1948/49 Excelsior Spryt 100 c.c. two stroke motor mounted inside the front wheel.I believe the name is a Bearcat and was built in Rochester New York in the 50's I have been trying to get any info possible [web sites etc] I also have one in it's original crate. by: 207.200.116.137 |
| I got 1 o these too. In really bad shape. Any info youmight help me get it runnung. by: 74.34.10.2 |
| If you have all the parts ther pretty basic to get running spark, fuel, air, 50:1 mix ratio which is measured by the built in measuring vessel built into the bottom of the gas cap you can see my bike on the web site motorcycles.com/.../bikes from the freakin fringe I am the restorer mentioned in the article I now also own the bike and another original one still in it's original crate.The power unit is the original one featured in a 1951 Modern Mechanix artcle as a display check out the blog modenMechanix.com?category transportation and let me know if is the same one you have
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AGE / VALUE:mid 60s murray cruiser, motor worthy?
posted by: Cottonmouth Joe
on 4/15/2009 at 9:38:24 PM
| I have recently acquired a mid 60s Murray cruiser with what appears to be stainless or aluminum bikini fenders, albatross handlebar,dryrotten white knobby tires on the fat rims. I can't find a serial #, but found out that during the mid60s, Murrays had pointed rear dropouts. Main questions: Are Murrays from this period sturdy enough for a bike motor? What's it worth and how can I pinpoint year of manufacture? Where can I find repro/vintage full metal ducktail fenders, taillights, chrome accys? by: 66.102.186.21 |
| Absolutely can handle a motor. Look in the archives here for info on year. Look at the price guides for value. by: 71.184.108.192 |
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