OldRoads.com > Discuss: English 3-speeds
Discuss: English Roadsters Scroll Down For Messages



NOTICE

I'm selling the OldRoads.com website.

I started the site in 1995 and sold my retail shop in April of this year.

I'm retiring from the bike business.

Here's a link to the eBay auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122248859390

Vinny


All pictures and text in these pages are (c)2010 Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm) and may not be used in any form without written permission from Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm).

Search 18 years of ARCHIVES:  


Disclaimer:
Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc. has set up this discussion area for the sharing of vintage and custom bicycle information. Anyone may add their opinions to this forum, as long as they follow the rules outlined below. We are not responsible for incorrect or misleading advise which may appear here.

RULES:

All pictures and text in these pages are (c)2010 Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm) and may not be used in any form without written permission from Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm).


Vintage Bicycle Discussion Area

English Roadsters


Post a new topic, or click an existing topic below:




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:hercules royal prince sturmey archer posted by: Tabetha on 6/26/2010 at 4:33:24 AM
I need a manual for this bike and or how to take care of the generator for the lights


by: 98.227.171.171


Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:hercules royal prince sturmey archer posted by David on 6/28/2010 at 4:04:15 AM
If it's a "bottle" generator, there's no real maintenance to do, other than lubricate the pivot every few years. If it's a Dynohub, the bearings will require service someday. Look at the on-line Sturmey-Archer materials if necessary. DON'T SEPARATE THE MAGNET FROM THE ARMATURE.
by: 216.15.114.27




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

MISC:Bayliss-Wiley hub posted by: ken on 6/25/2010 at 12:08:06 PM
This isn't my regular board, nor does the bike in question belong here, but I know I'll get expert help regarding my topic. The bike is a '50s Huffy middleweight, and I really don't know that the wheels are original, but the rims match and appear correct 26x1.75 (559). The coaster brake is a New Departure with no model letter or code that I can find either on the arm or the shell. The front hub is the fun part. It's a Bayliss-Wiley with an oil port, not a nipple but just a hole with a sliding spring cover. It has no cone locknuts, and one cone has no flats and tightens against a swaged stop on the axle. It's a darn nice hub that cleaned up beautifully and runs smooth. My question is, what's it doing on a Huffy middleweight? It's the first I've encountered. Did they import a million of 'em?
by: 70.106.163.62

Replies:
RE:MISC:Bayliss-Wiley hub posted by chris on 6/25/2010 at 5:15:37 PM
welcome! you mentioned bayless wiley so sit down and have a sada and relax!


this was a british hub company large one made headset cups and hubs and a lot of stuff somebody wanted a good hub in the huffy this is not the usual hub on a huffy

perhaps they did import a lot of them yes but not found on huffys

huffy was dayton huffman and they go back 10 years plus and some of it was nice back in the day huffy used british parts for a while they had raleigh made bikes for them so raleigh could have used a b.w. hub

middleweight bike with middleweight rims fits the time period when brit parts would be found on a huffy

sounds now that is is original

glad to hear it cleaned up and spins nice these were middle of the road parts not expensive but good sturdy serviceable stuff visit us anytime!
regards
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:RE:MISC:Bayliss-Wiley hub posted by chris on 6/25/2010 at 5:16:25 PM
going back 100 years not 10
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:MISC:Bayliss-Wiley hub posted by David on 6/26/2010 at 3:55:50 AM
It was simply Huffman Mfg Corp until about 1970 when it became "Huffy." The bike brand was Dayton until after the war. Perhaps it was changed to Huffy because of the unrelated English brand Dayton bikes. When I lived in Dayton in the early 60s all the kids had Huffy bikes which I, a Schwinn loyalist, regarded as inferior.
by: 216.15.114.27




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by: mark on 6/23/2010 at 11:26:47 AM
Sirs--my "for dummies" question:--so, i am putting the bottom bracket back on a Raleigh, when i tighten the lock ring the adjustable cup gets too tight (spindle no longer moves freely).
Sheldon speaks of backing it off and trying again ("Kentucky windage"), i have tried this many times, including trying to hold the adj flats (the "rectangle" slight stubby thing, on face of adj cup) with a needle nose as i turn the lock ring. I assume the adj cup needs to be finger tight and the lock ring more so (it was hard to get off). I also assume the spindle needs to turn with no binding at all if it's done right. Are there any other suggestions you may have (my bearings are new/correct size w/ plenty of grease)? On someone's suggestion (not here) i bought the Park HCW--11 bb tool, but it won't hold the flats as i try to adjust lockring. not sure how this tool is helpful other than in removal process? thanks in advance for any advice.
p.s. Didn't find this in the archives so maybe it's just me....
by: 205.127.244.102

Replies:
RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Keith Body on 6/23/2010 at 12:54:52 PM
Mark, The locking ring may be tight on the threads. The original Raleigh bottom bracket threads were 26 tpi, most other uk bikes were 24 tpi, have you got a raleigh lock ring? Or it might be a little bent from previous chiselling. Make sure the locking ring turns easily on the bracket cup.
You could fit a crank on and fill the gap between the tool and the crank, to hold it on the flats. When it's right you may feel a little play in the bearings, far better than being slightly tight. Often there is a tight spot due either to wear or manufacturing.
by: 92.21.133.25

RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by mark on 6/23/2010 at 5:19:44 PM
Hi, yes i feel pretty sure it's a Raleigh lock ring--and it does seem to turn freely on the cup, it doesn't seem to be bent.
Was i correct in my initial query that cup should be finger tight and the lock ring more so? i kind of feel, oh-oh gotta be able to do this or why am i fooling around with bikes :)
so i will keep working with it including what you suggest
thanks
by: 205.127.244.102

RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Keith Body on 6/24/2010 at 5:23:28 AM
Mark, when you tighten the locking ring, if the bearing cup stays still the cup is forced outwards slightly loosening the bearings.
by: 92.18.178.234

RE:RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by ken on 6/25/2010 at 11:35:35 AM
I've never had occasion to take issue with Keith Body before; he's a professional, I'm not. Keith, I'm concerned about the statement that a little play in the bearings is better than tight. I think that's only true if the tension is truly excessive, and of course neither too tight nor too loose is just right. Here's Jobst Brandt's FAQ about BB adjustment
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/bb-adjust.html
in which he says that a little preload will extend bearing life.
I would advise the OP to be prepared to retighten the lockring many times. You never know.
I have had bottom brackets that went together perfectly the first time, and some that took the "Kentucky windage" effort a dozen times, and I have one I've never been able to diagnose, on a bike I really like, that appears to mount and adjust normally but loosens again once a season or so.
by: 70.106.163.62

RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Keith Body on 6/25/2010 at 3:09:25 PM
Hi Ken, You are correct, but I was a repairer 50 years ago.
We had a lot of poor components, and the chances of precision on an old worn bottom bracket is fairly low. Better to be slightly slack than too tight, but the ideal precision may be impossible. Often there was a slack point 180 degrees from a tight spot. It doesn't take much pressure to go straight through the case hardening.
by: 92.8.210.136

RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by mark on 6/25/2010 at 3:18:48 PM
Gents, on closer inspection my lock ring looks good on the outside but the threading has issues--so maybe that's my problem. thanks for all your replies. so i guess i need to find one of these. thanks, Mark
by: 205.127.244.102

RE:RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by ken on 6/29/2010 at 10:22:49 AM
Keith, Thanks for your lucid explanation. I knew I could count on you.
Can I get your input on the Bayliss-Wiley conundrum?
by: 70.104.104.26

RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Keith Body on 6/29/2010 at 11:08:17 AM
Ken, when I was selling Raleigh, Hercules and others in the 1950's, (UK) these bikes were mainly utility, ride to work machines, rarely even oiled, frequently left out in the rain. What we did was try to improve already misused bikes without spending much on them. Often it was the crank and pedal straightening irons, and pulling the front forks rather than fitting new. They were not always dead straight, but massively improved.


Bayliss Wiley were major manufacturers of utility to quite decent hubs and bottom bracket bearings. By the early 1950's the roadster style (bolt on seat stays) had virtually disappeared, apart from "junevile" bikes. I did not even know these things were popular in the export market.
The hubs you mention were probably redundant stock, possibly 36 hole and fixed cone roadster type no use in the UK. You can not preload these, as final adjustment can only be done when tightening the front hub nuts. This is why so many get worn front hub bearings in their Raleigh rod brake roadsters. Much better to have lock nuts each side, as the Raleigh fully brazed models do.
A revelation for us was the Campagnolo GS QR hubs that we got in 1955. At last QR hubs that could be fitted many times without any unwanted cone adjustment. They also had hard chrome surfaced cones.
Probably enough for now, if I get more controversial I usually keep it to email.
by: 92.22.171.86

RE:RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Chris on 7/1/2010 at 6:41:38 PM
Keith, Please do not keep it to e- mail even if it is controversial. Tell us please here where we all can read it. Nobody is going to object if you get controversial your opinions are chock full of truth, wisdom and experience.
Please share it all here. Please.
After all the patience this good group here has shown with me, they deserve to be taught by a real experienced gentleman like yourself. We are dying to hear all you have to say. I always have hoped that the library of oldroads.com threads will contain far better posts than just myself and since you have been here our path to understanding has never been so well lit.
regards, Chris
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:RE:RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Chris on 7/2/2010 at 4:33:57 PM
I feel Keith Body is our very own "Master Poe" from Kung Fu with David Carodine you know, the old t.v. show?

All the vintage bicycle wisdom of the ancients and he can see too!

Chris, who STILL cannot walk the rice paper and not leave a trace.
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:MISC:Raleigh bottom bracket reinstall query posted by Bill on 7/7/2010 at 11:16:56 AM
I was reading upon a couple of archives and many people have asked about a cottered pin removal tool. Well I have found one that is still being sold! I have used this thing twice so far and will stand by everything the guy who sells it says!!! Here is the site http://bikesmithdesign.com/ . Sells less then the park tool cottered crank tool. Hope this helps alot of people.
by: 24.94.58.30




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1974 Raleigh Sports 3-speed (restored) S/N NB4270361 posted by: Brad from Greenacres, FL on 6/23/2010 at 6:57:10 AM
I just wanted to share pictures of my recently restored 1974 Raleigh Sports. I purchased a 23" Bronze Green frame off a guy in NYC earlier this year. It took me about three months to do the restore. I'm quite proud of the final results. Here are the pics from Flickr.com

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43883860@N00/sets/72157624080819397/

I also decided to do a full restore on my 1963 Raleigh Colt. I'll post pics once I'm done with it.


by: 65.8.97.187


Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1974 Raleigh Sports 3-speed (restored) S/N NB4270361 posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/24/2010 at 2:48:00 AM
Brad.... looks nice. Plese tell me the purchase was pursuant to snowbirding peregrinations.... or the frame was shipped. NYC is not exactly in propinquity with Green Acres, aye?

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - I95 acquisition.... the long haul version!
by: 4.248.91.159

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1974 Raleigh Sports 3-speed (restored) S/N NB4270361 posted by Andy on 7/7/2010 at 2:12:54 PM
Wow, that looks amazing! I've thought about doing a ground-up on my 1975 LTD-3, but I've come to love the 'patina.' But you've basically got a brand new bike there now, congrats.
by: 206.80.8.130

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1974 Raleigh Sports 3-speed (restored) S/N NB4270361 posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 7/8/2010 at 4:36:35 AM
They are sweet when new. There was a fellow in the Philly area that had apparantly come across a cache of NOS machines... IN CRATES a couple of years ago and sold them all on Ebay.

BRAND NEW... NEVER UN-CRATED.... and the prices weren't even all that bad. Alas... all smaller framed machines... otherwise, I would have jumped on one like a kangaroo.

What our friend here has... is in a way, the next best thing. Kudos to ANYONE preserving and / or restoring a Roadster.

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - I remember seeing new ones... lined up all in a row.. at the LBS in 1969........ (drool)
by: 4.248.78.253

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1974 Raleigh Sports 3-speed (restored) S/N NB4270361 posted by Luther on 10/17/2010 at 6:26:15 AM
Hello,

Where did you find the new decals?
by: 98.16.2.175




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by: Stephen Hogben on 6/21/2010 at 12:45:31 PM
I am going to cycle the Basingstoke canal(or attempt to)from its end,600 yards away from where i live to its end 37 miles away,and back.Have been practising doing 20 to 30 miles in one go for weeks is this enough?Pedalled 1,200 miles on it now.Have been getting bike ready(Hercules Popular)thought the tyres were a bit low so pumped them up to 50 psi(recommended max 55)but now giving a very hard ride down the tow paths.Any ideas on sort of pressure is best? P.S. 26 x 1 3/8. Thank you for any advice!
by: 86.0.50.167

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by Darkwater on 6/21/2010 at 2:36:35 PM
Hello Stephen, I'm not a trainer, but I think if you can comfortably ride 30 miles, you can ride two to three times that distance without, er, breaking down. It seems to work for me.

Lately I've been using the information in this article to calculate my tire pressures:

www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf

It sounds like a nice ride you have planned. I've covered a few miles by the Oxford Canal. It was during a cold spell in January, so the path was hard as a road.
by: 98.92.31.153

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by Stephen Hogben on 6/21/2010 at 2:52:23 PM
Thankyou Darkwater cycling it day after tomorrow(Wednesday)will let you know how I got on!
by: 86.0.50.167

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by Stephen Hogben on 6/23/2010 at 7:58:04 AM
Well I did the ride not quite as long as I thought it would be,it was 66 miles.Set off at 5.30am back home at 2.00pm.Was that tow path rough!! Some of it had house bricks sticking out of it!Pretty sore legs and backside but enjoyed it.
by: 86.0.50.167

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by Matthew on 6/23/2010 at 2:22:53 PM
66 miles is not to be sniffed at. Well Done SH.

Plenty of young things on much lighter machines would give up past the 25 mark. Your pain is all gain.

Matthew - fellow long distance oldie.
by: 82.26.120.167

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by Darkwater on 6/23/2010 at 7:32:03 PM
Stephen, were you back in time to watch England in the World Cup? I saw the match was at 1500, but I don't know if that was BST. Or the to-the-death tennis match? (I hope this isn't an embarrassing question. I confess I never know anymore who's playing in the Super Bowl, though I usually can say who's playing the half-time show.)

I second Matthew; that's a significant ride on an old Hercules. You give me hope for trying long rides when my Raleigh Tourist is ready for the road. Cheers!
by: 72.145.214.149

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tyre Pressures posted by Stephen Hogben on 6/24/2010 at 3:19:41 AM
Yes back in time to watch the football!Did not rush the ride average speed worked out at only 7.7 mph!!Deepcut flight of locks was the worst 18 of them one after the other,still downhill on the way back!Re tyre pressure 50 psi was far to high,water bottles leaping out of basket and rear brake blocks coming undone,Have now put them at 35 psi,tested much better! Thanks for your comments.
by: 86.0.50.167




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Sturmey Archer Gear Cable End posted by: Jerry on 6/16/2010 at 8:11:57 PM
OK I'm looking for the crimp end that goes on the hub end of a SA 3 speed cable. I know we have the option of the wrap around screw, but I would like to keep the cable original. Does anyone know where one might find these crimps. Any and all help would be appreciated.
by: 65.80.152.221

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Sturmey Archer Gear Cable End posted by David on 6/17/2010 at 4:42:07 AM
I don't think separate ends were ever available from SA; you'd buy a complete cable. However, I've made long cables from ordinary shift cable by soldering a short piece of copper tubing on the end and it works fine. Take the cable you intend to use with you to the hardware or hobby shop and get the smallest tubing that the cable will fit into.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Sturmey Archer Gear Cable End posted by Jerry on 6/17/2010 at 3:50:33 PM
Thanks David. I will give that a try.
by: 65.1.149.98




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:Raleigh Superbe posted by: Richard on 6/15/2010 at 1:37:28 PM
Hello, I am trying to determine the age of my Raliegh Superbe. The Sturmey Archer "AG" hub has the numbers "52" stamped on it which, according to this and other sites, indicates the year of manufacture (of the hub) to be 1952. The serial number stamped on the seat lug is "51869 BJ" and again, using the info from this and other sites, does not easily translate into a year. Any help out there? Thanks. Sincerely, Richard
by: 204.195.8.195

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Raleigh Superbe posted by Chris on 6/15/2010 at 6:50:32 PM
the bike was made in 1952

the sturmey archer hub gives the date it was made

likely the bike was made at that time also

unless your wheel was swithched sounds like you have a 1952 Superbe

nice find!!

375.00 depending on condition more or less
would love to see pics of the bike
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:AGE / VALUE:Raleigh Superbe posted by Richard on 6/17/2010 at 3:36:58 PM
Thank you for the information. I have been trying to post photos of my bike on the Reader's Ride page but am having problems. I'll post here again if/when I get that working so you can have a look.
by: 204.195.8.195

RE:AGE / VALUE:Raleigh Superbe posted by Richard on 6/20/2010 at 10:20:59 AM
Hello Again, I have now posted pictures and some info about my bike on the Reader's Ride page,
by: 204.195.8.195




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by: mark on 6/15/2010 at 9:21:24 AM
so what is it about Phillips-lion-Celtonia bells? another one just went for 200$ plus on ebay? were these bells rare add-ons even back when? were these bells even better than everybody else? i know someone here wrote a lyrical piece-all true! about English quality etc, but wondered if there was something else going on with these...also Phillips even pre-Raleigh seems to have less cachet than the Raleigh top models, so how many Phillips bkes had these? were they on roadsters and "sports" models? just wondered--mark
by: 166.70.39.73

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by Chris on 6/15/2010 at 10:37:36 AM
these are found further back in the deep end of the magical bicycle bell pool these were and still are popular people type in what they are looking for and have no problem paying this

I wrote the piece too!
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by Keith Body on 6/15/2010 at 1:21:01 PM
Hi Mark and Chris, In the UK Phillips were known more as a component manufacturer, and bells were sold to the cycle wholesale trade, acting as local warehouses. If we knew what was likely to be "collectible" in 30 years time....
Design, quality, function, and appearance is not relevant in the world of collectibles.
Eventually the owners of Phillips took over Raleigh.
These companies made mainly "ride to work" bicycles, and sometimes imagined they were in the sporting bicycle trade. (apart from the Carltons)
by: 92.3.1.205

RE:AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by CHRIS on 6/15/2010 at 6:40:05 PM
PHILLIPS WAS HUGE! HUGE MADE A TON OF STUFF WHOLE LINE OF BIKES SKATES MANY BELLS HUGE FACTORY! MADE ARMAMENTS DURING THE WAR! THE NAME CELTONIA ITSELF DRIVES UP A PRICE

WE STILL STAND IN AWE! LIKE KIDS LOOKING THRU A WINDOW ALL THESE YEARS LATER

THANKS KEITH YOU ARE CORRECT
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:AGE / VALUE: pricey Phillips bells posted by mark on 6/15/2010 at 10:32:14 PM
celtonia has a nice ring to it, too. wonder the origin of the name is?
by: 166.70.39.73

RE:AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by Keith Body on 6/21/2010 at 12:43:22 PM
Celtonia was a Phillips trade mark, the name used to sell various accessories. It sounds suitable for a bell, but there were hubs, pedals etc. Their stuff was better than many others, but strictly for utility bikes, and not expensive.
Celts were inhabitants of what is now great britain over 2000 years ago, and were pushed out to Scotland, Wales and Cornwall, but I can't see a conection.
by: 92.10.175.193

RE:AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by Bryan on 6/27/2010 at 4:57:00 PM
Can anyone shed a little light on a Phillips Manhattan I have had in my garage for at least 30 years? It is a two tone (green and white), 3-speed ladies model. The hub is a Sturmey-Archer 1958 - 5, and the two placards (one one the front frame, one on the rear fender) both indicate it was made in Birmingham. Everything (pedals, seat,etc) seems to be original, but it is missing the chain-guard. I gave it a quick clean-up and it rides well, with everything in good working order. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bryan
by: 75.13.100.76

RE:AGE / VALUE:   pricey Phillips bells posted by mark on 6/28/2010 at 4:00:38 PM
very little info out there in webland on this model, search the archives here, there are a few posts on this , i own one myself
by: 205.127.245.44




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by: Kevin_Jones on 6/14/2010 at 4:25:53 PM
I was interested to see a Humber Sports on Ebay. It's a 24" frame which is unusual and I've only seen a few other Humbers a while back, and they were much older and in rough shape. However it seems almost identical to my two 21" Raleigh Sports of 60s vintage. Also to that same vintage of Rudge I used to have. I think I read somewhere that Raleigh made them all by the 60s. I like this vintage for riding every day and I have plenty of parts to interchange. The Brooks saddle on this Humber looks nice. My father, back in the old country riding pre-WWII, mentioned an "Olympic Humber". Greetings to you all.
Kevin J
by: 24.185.84.239

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by David on 6/15/2010 at 6:06:58 AM
Apart from the Humber identifying marks, it probably IS identical to your 60s Raleighs. The fact that Raleigh had 3 top brands allowed them to force their dealers to compete with each other rather than having genuine exclusive territories.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Keith Body on 6/15/2010 at 1:01:19 PM
Hi Kevin, As a UK Raleigh retailer in the 1950's, I sold all 4 UK makes, Raleigh, Rudge, Humber and Triumph. Raleigh had 3 independent representatives (salesmen) for the main 3 makes, and all could sell Triumph. Raleigh also had factories in the Far East and Africa, and exported many makes and models from nottingham that were never seen in the UK. The history is fairly well documented.
That Humber looks like a 21", about the right price?
To us that was a heavyweight roadster, "sports" is from the deep well of Raleigh imagination.
by: 92.3.1.205

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Kevin J. on 6/15/2010 at 6:49:17 PM
I don't need to go over to Connecticut for a Raleigh. I figured it was the same thing. I'm always interested if I see something economical of that vintage closer to home. Thanks for the background.
by: 24.185.84.239

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Chris on 6/16/2010 at 10:44:53 AM
Before Raleigh took over Humber they had more than one type of fork offered four types of forks different forks for different markets the catalogs show four types. Humber goes back to 1889
It's good to know you won't go crazy long istances for a bike I will however! somebody here has to be senseable. I, on the other hand....
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Ron on 6/16/2010 at 7:22:21 PM
Humbers are out there though definitely hard to find, especially in California where I live. This past winter I was lucky enough to find what turned out to be a 1956 Humber Sports with chaincase and front Dynohub on the local Craigslist. It was in fair to poor condition and some of the original parts had been replaced. The frame was in good shape and enough of the original bike was there to make it restorable, which is what I did. I used parts from a trashed 1962 Raleigh Sports that I bought for $30 and the parts I didn't need I traded for the appropriate GC3A Sturmey Archer shifter, hand grips and Midlands rear rack. This Humber is now my workhorse and I love it. Restoring this bike was a great experience because I sought out and got to know people who "have a thing" about old English roadsters as I do.
by: 68.122.33.227

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Kevin J. on 6/19/2010 at 12:44:26 PM
I haven't followed the bid for that Humber on ebay. I actually would consider going up to CT to get it, but I don't want to spend too much money on these things. Part of the attraction is that I'm re"cycling", reusing well- made old stuff that has a great history, and it's cheaper. I just had to replace a bent pedal on my '67 Sports the other day. So I took one off another bike. I like the chaincase on the older roadsters. I'm getting a lot of grit on my chain. It needs some attention.
by: 24.185.84.239

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Ted Trambley on 6/22/2010 at 9:33:18 PM
I've got my "51 Beeston Humber Clubman at the painters right now. I had to have decals made. The fork is the main difference between this and my '51 Raleigh Clubman. The Humber has a dual plate fork crown. When it's done, it'll be a beautiful bicycle but not nearly worth what I've put into it. Been going on three years. It's been a challenge but a lot of fun.
by: 76.102.80.126

RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:raleigh, humbers, rudges posted by Chris on 6/24/2010 at 6:23:30 PM
What painters are you using? Have you used them before ?

Not nearly worth what you have put into it? are you sure?

humberchristopher29@hotmail.com
by: 71.40.121.165




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:EHB posted by: Mr Ed on 6/13/2010 at 12:24:03 PM
has anyone ever heard of a German bike EHB? recently bought one at a yardsale, looks to be from the 30's or 40's. any info or links would be helpful, Thanks.
by: 207.200.116.132

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:EHB posted by Chris on 6/15/2010 at 6:47:48 PM
Rare! Rare! Rare!

Rare bike Will Robinson!

This stuff is not well documented you will need to look around it will take a while.

I don't recall it. You got something there post pictures please hang onto it until you know it's story.
by: 71.40.121.165




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Gazelle in the Attic posted by: JS on 6/12/2010 at 11:51:17 PM
Thought you guys might be interested in the bike and article I just posted...especially in the Headlight.

http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org/2010/06/insanity-the-gazelle-in-the-attic.html#tp

Enjoy.

-JS

http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org
by: 193.23.43.4

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Gazelle in the Attic posted by Andy on 6/14/2010 at 12:31:34 PM
Nifty bike - but 4 grand? Do they honestly expect it to fetch that price?
by: 206.80.8.130

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Gazelle in the Attic posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/15/2010 at 7:34:18 AM
Yeah, $4000 US is a King's Ransom in China.

I wonder if perhaps it has some special provenance...

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - It IS pretty rare there I imagine
by: 4.248.88.187

RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Gazelle in the Attic posted by Chris on 6/22/2010 at 5:41:03 PM
It's revered there hard to explain and I won't try I'm enjoying the flying Pidgeon site I find it interesting
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Gazelle in the Attic posted by JS on 6/23/2010 at 2:20:48 AM
Glad you like the site. I have a friend who came from the same warehouse. He said they dropped the price to a mere $2000 US.

JS

http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org.
by: 193.23.43.5




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by: Roderic D. Schmidt on 6/9/2010 at 8:11:15 PM
Greetings All,
So I just salvaged some parts from a derelict 69' Robin Hood (another victim of NYC's cruel streets), and after getting the hub home and cleaning it up a little noticed that the date stamp is 69 14. Has anyone seen anything similar? Is this just an example of Raleigh's slipping standards as the 60s progressed?
Relatedly, the Robin Hood I was stripping had the stem bolt removed, but it seems the stem itself is rusted to the steerer tube. The fork would be of use to me and I'd like to salvage it; does anyone have any ideas for getting the two separated? I hosed down the related bits with penetrating oil before leaving, and will try main force again later.

Thanks
Roderic
by: 173.68.245.158

Replies:
RE:MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by Roderic D. Schmidt on 6/10/2010 at 7:18:57 AM
Greetings all,
Never mind about the frozen fork and stem; I realized the expander nut had been left in and knocked it loose with a probe, and it came right out.

Thanks
Rod
by: 207.246.218.205

RE:MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by Morry on 6/17/2010 at 8:42:39 AM
Please remember on some of their date stamps Raleigh used fortnights instead of months. Since there are 14 fortnights in a year it is possible that it was made in the last fortnight of that year
by: 206.235.249.50

RE:RE:MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by ken on 6/17/2010 at 10:02:19 AM
26 fortnights in a year, plus a tiny fraction, unless the fortnight has been recently modified.
by: 70.104.110.163

RE:MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by Roderic D. Schmidt on 6/22/2010 at 8:26:43 AM
Thanks Morry and Ken,
I'm pretty new to these machines and had not yet heard about the fortnight timestamp. Nifty!

Thanks Again
Rod
by: 207.246.218.205

RE:MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by Brad from Greenacres, FL on 6/23/2010 at 9:50:01 PM
I have a 1969 Triumph with a S/A AW hub marked 69 13 and another NOS spare in my spares locker marked 69 15. I've always wondered why they had odd month numbering. I've spoken with some other people with 69 hubs that had similiar markings. It only seems to have been done with the 69 hubs. Any thoughts on this ?
by: 65.8.97.187

RE:RE:MISC:Sturmey Archer 14 month calendar? posted by chris on 6/25/2010 at 10:18:49 AM
human or machine error.
by: 71.40.121.165




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:Rush hour video posted by: Jeff Bikeguy on 6/8/2010 at 7:16:42 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-AbPav5E5M&feature=player_embedded

Look at all the Dutch roadsters...
by: 71.173.184.95

Replies:



[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:BB oiler cap posted by: MikeU on 6/7/2010 at 12:31:10 PM
I caught my pant leg on my BB oiler on my '46 Raleigh Superbe, and the cap came off. Unfortunately, I didn't realize it at the time. I am looking for a replacement or suitable alternative. Any suggestions?

-Mike
by: 208.205.39.112

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:BB oiler cap posted by Roderic D. Schmidt on 6/9/2010 at 8:11:05 PM
Hi Mike
I'm hoping to conduct some tests on this exact subject this weekend; I'll keep you posted on what I find out.

Roderic
by: 173.68.245.158




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:New website... posted by: Danny on 6/6/2010 at 9:34:59 AM
Hi all... I've just started up a new website at www.bikestothefuture.com

Can you have a look and tell me what you think?? It's only in the very first stages, so not much is listed, but would be grateful for any advice! :-)
by: 86.169.131.127

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:New website... posted by Matthew on 6/7/2010 at 9:08:29 AM
Hi Danny,

You need to work on your photos; plain backgrounds and accurate titles are worth a great deal. For instance you could photograph bikes against a plain wall or have a dust sheet behind them.

The website works okay and navigation is smooth. The title is catchy.

Prices? Watch out or you will find yourself more expensive than eBay. Why not set up a shop on eBay with links to your website?

Matthw - honesty the best policy.
by: 86.29.39.184

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:New website... posted by Danny on 6/7/2010 at 12:12:38 PM
Thanks for the reply! Ironically I actually make most of my money from ebay, I just got sick of the fees! It's more focused on the hire side, or will be. I've got a stock of 26 bikes at the moment ranging from 1925 to 1970, but it's getting the time to add them lol!

I agree, the photos need work, it was put together in an afternoon, so I'll be seeing if it takes off before investing a huge amount of money into fancy graphics. I know it makes me sound (in bicycle circles) like the antichrist, but I get around 15 rod bikes a month to strip and sell, and I've just ended up paying ebay through the nose. Good point though, I could start an ebay shop I guess and link through, although what I was planning on doing was to enclose a leaflet with everything I sell to advertise it! I'm getting a logo made up for the top to. Still, a work in progress! :-) Thanks for the comments!
by: 86.169.131.127

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:New website... posted by Darkwater on 6/15/2010 at 10:48:32 AM
Danny, good luck with your new endeavor!

All, I'm a satisfied customer of Danny on eBay.
by: 74.176.47.179

...>>>>>>>> MORE MESSAGES >>>>>>>>



HOME (OldRoads.com) Discussion Areas Literature and Price Guide Cleaning Kit Glossary
Stat and Feature Database Picture Database Serial Number Charts General Resources