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AGE / VALUE:   1960s Indian Princess posted by: spfldken on 5/25/2010 at 7:17:57 AM
I've got a lady friend here in Springfield, MA who dug out her childhood bike, an early 60s Indian Princess 3 spd, blue, in reasonable condition. She wants to sell it. Any ideas on value, what to expect, etc? I thought maybe to tell her craigslist, 100?, but don't know. Thanks
by: 71.123.98.78

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1960s Indian Princess posted by Chris on 5/25/2010 at 4:23:57 PM
The 1946 versions and later had Phillips's alloy pedals that were developed and put on the market while ww2 was still on they are collectable, those pedals a few other things about this bike are special but if it 1960's as you say this may have changes we need pictures of the bike

these are neat bikes hards to say about value we need pictures of the bike
by: 71.40.121.165

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1960s Indian Princess posted by chris on 5/27/2010 at 5:33:38 PM
I remember a fellow who told me oh no thats an Indian Princess like it was so special it was not for sale to anybody these are not that special but the pedals are special
by: 71.40.121.165

           what is this bike posted by andy feetenby on 5/28/2010 at 12:00:36 PM
hi all i need help.ive just purchased a lovely vintage bike,infact 3 of them and i cannot find any info on this particular one.its a avon royal five star india 87.this is stamped everywhere but i can find no date either.please help
by: 92.17.137.127




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AGE / VALUE:   misvc posted by: chris on 5/24/2010 at 12:39:21 PM
american pickers tonight at 9 history channel highwheel bike somebody tape it for me

chris
by: 71.40.121.165

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FOR SALE:   SA headlamp / taillamp set for sale posted by: David on 5/23/2010 at 12:04:56 PM
I'm listing some parts for sale on the 'bay.

Thanks for looking.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190399303320
by: 98.195.149.133

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AGE / VALUE:   Chainrings... posted by: Dan on 5/23/2010 at 11:28:34 AM
Hi, I picked up a 1940's English bicycle today, with no badge or identifying marks, other than the chainring. It has three "H"'s going around in a circle. The obvious choice would be Hercules, but I've only ever seen Herc's with the name "Hercules" spelled out in letters, any ideas on manufacturer? It's a standard ladies wartime frame with Philips brakes, which would suggest Hercules could be the make, just with a chainring that I haven't seen before!
by: 86.169.131.127

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Chainrings... posted by Darkwater on 5/23/2010 at 12:33:30 PM
Hi Dan, don't take this as a definitive statement, but it seems to me that Hercules shifted to the H-pattern crank after the war. The spelled-out cranks appear on pre-war higher-end models. Scans of a catalog tentatively identified to 1939:

http://www.fattiretrading.com/herculescatalog.html

Scans of a 1953 catalog:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikegerrish/sets/72157622633388334/

And of a 1955 catalog:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75395133@N00/sets/72157614886846372/

Enjoy . . .

by: 72.145.237.46

           RE:AGE / VALUE: Chainrings... posted by mark on 5/23/2010 at 3:04:57 PM
my 48 Herc has 3h's too...sa not herc hub
does yours have an sa or herc hub?
by: 166.70.39.73

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Chainrings... posted by Dan on 5/24/2010 at 12:55:20 PM
No it has a BSA hub rather strangely, but is definately not a BSA. It has Philips brakes, and 26.2mm seatpostwhich knocks out any Raleigh or BSA bikes.. I deal with a lot of vintage bicycles, and this is one that crops up every now and again, but for some strange reason, every time I see that chainring there are no other identifying marks on the bike! I'm good at dating bikes, not only from the hub but also other features, and I can be 99.9% sure that it's a world war two bicycle. In England, where I am by the way, during the war, the usual chrome parts were painted black as chrome was hard to come by... the handlebars, cranks, chainring and hubs are all black, and no chrome underneath meaning it's got to date realistically between 1940-1947.. total mystery! I would guess at Herc for the simple reason that it would fit in with the Philips brakes and 26.2mm seatpost. It's not an important thing by the way, it won't be restored, just an idle curiousity to see if anyone knew!
by: 86.169.131.127

           RE:AGE / VALUE: Chainrings... posted by mark on 5/24/2010 at 7:59:35 PM
Say, Dan mine--the 48== only has one decal "Sports Model" plus the headbadge...the person i bought it from says his granddad bought it n England after the war...do you know if Hercs were thus minimally decaled, maybe it was a budget model? also no chainguard on mine...would it have had one? some Hercs seem not to..would post-war/pre-50 Hercs have the white on the rear fender? decal? badge?...mine's missng the rear part of rear fender. It occurs to me maybe Herc thru together whatever was readily available for hubs and other parts--now i wll go look at darkwaters catalogues...thanx
by: 166.70.39.73

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Chainrings... posted by Darkwater on 5/25/2010 at 8:14:31 AM
Hi Mark, I can't claim credit for the catalogs; they were scanned and put up by others. I don't have a lot of data points, but our late 40s-early 50s Herc has the rear white patch, though painted over on the outside of the mudguard!
by: 72.145.219.205




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AGE / VALUE:   cool&rare frame posted by: sam on 5/22/2010 at 7:11:40 PM
And going cheep too...
http://cgi.ebay.com/1961-Dunelt-Frame-Forks-Crank-Seat-and-Pedals_W0QQitemZ230475812889QQcategoryZ156523QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8345497098437559759
by: 99.97.143.31

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MISC:   Seat tension. posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/22/2010 at 3:49:15 AM
OK so after liberally treating the original Brooks on my DL-1 with Lexol and finished with McGuiers [sic] leather "lotion" I figured it was time to "adjust" the tension of the seat.

Especially considering that it was utterly at the end of the "slack" spectrum... and the underside was bottoming on the top of the seat post.

Yeah.... realy comfy.

Of course, this was approached with trepidation as from what I could manage... I don't think this seat had ever seen any sort of maintenance since it's manufacture in 1974

Yeah... it LOOKED OK.... but had some very deep cracks in stress point concentration areas.

That of course would be at the two rivets on either side of the "nose". Mind you, I didn't get real crazy with the tension as I knew what I was dealing with. Still got about 1/4" (or more) deflection when I pressed down on the center of the seat with considerable thumb/hand force.

Yesterday being "Ride Your Bike To Work" day, I ended up racking the bike and parking about 8 miles from the office. Rode her in from there... and notice that the leather had given way on the RH side nose rivet.... Uh oh....

It was not completely unexpected. What was not helpful was the LH side cracked.... the crack propageted from both sides to the center... and the whole nose parted about 1/2 mile into my return ride last evening.

We shant get into the particulars... let's just say that I was able to ride the balance of miles by shifting back on to the rear portion of the seat.

It was better than walking it those miles.

Fortunately, I have replacement seat "skins"... so that project will be forth coming.

I don't think there was much I would have been able to do to prevent the failure... the leather was just... well... 36 years old and utterly neglected. Yeah... looked OK. But... was like having a two week old, dessicated loaf of bread.

It kinda crumbled once properly loaded.

So... all that bloviation aside.... IS there a guideline for "Proper Seat Tension" that may have prevented this?

Just wonderin'...

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Won't be just sittin' around today, I assure you!
by: 208.252.179.27

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           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by JDuck on 5/22/2010 at 6:49:39 AM
Larry, I have had this same problem. I also would like to know how to determine the proper tension. Where did you get extrta skins? I have only seen leather failure, not frame failure to get doner skins.
by: 66.254.211.103

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by sam on 5/22/2010 at 4:35:52 PM
34 years an't too bad for just about anything.About 3 or 4 dollars a year is all that seat cost ya---Even if you replaced with a new brooks---that's a real bargin.
by: 99.97.143.31

           RE:RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/23/2010 at 6:09:10 AM
Good call Sam... breaking it down per annum. 'Twould be that I had owned it from day one, the truth... or not so much as I would have applied something to the seat to preserve it over the years.

As to getting new skins, well, that's an interesting tale. Our friend Jeff... the Driviing Force behind the Flying Pigeon Project Blog, was kind enough to get a pair of them from the inimitable "Mr. Jin" in China. You can see by my comments I was an immediate fan!

http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org/2010/04/the-return-of-mr-jin.html

I promised Jeff I would put together a wee "presentation" when I re-skin one of my saddles so... stay tuned!


BTW, I have no clue where Mr. Jin gets his skins but they are wonderful quality. Jeff got me one of each thickness and they're very attractive to look at and smell quite nice as well. A true leather smell... and they are utterly un-finished so I'm quite sure that they will soak up copious amounts of whatever leather lotion I put on them.

Wish I knew what the stampings on the side said. Very kewl though.

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - worth being un-seated.... sort of.




by: 208.252.179.28

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by sam on 5/23/2010 at 7:23:36 PM
Larry,did I tell ya for a very short time I owned you bike---sam
by: 99.97.143.31

           RE:RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/24/2010 at 8:51:04 AM
Yes... I do recall. So wassup with that seat? ;-) I think it was just.... I dunno... dried out or something.

No worries... I'm looking forward to the re-skin project. Should be fun.

Meanwhile... my tuchus is still protesting the Friday afternoon debauchery....

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - I don't recommend riding like that!
Dingmans Ferry, PA, USA
by: 167.9.1.11

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by spfldken on 5/25/2010 at 5:35:25 AM
Hi...Are those those skins available or was that a one time shot? I'm sure more than a few of us have some great frames waiting. I've searched the web in the past for replacements with no luck. Thanks either way
by: 71.123.98.78

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/25/2010 at 6:33:38 AM
Jeff would have to be the one to answer that question. Or even more so, Mr. Jin.

Jeff? ;-)

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Seating for one... for the moment.
Dingmans Ferry, PA, USA
by: 167.9.1.11

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by JS on 5/31/2010 at 12:37:35 AM
Sorry for not replying earlier. Been busy as anything.

I can get more seat skins, of course. But just so you know, shipping from China is not inexpensive, nor are the seat...well, not as inexpensive as some may think.

Also be aware that you'd need at least some leather skills, like hole punching and riveting to do an installation

Contact me by posting on my blog. Let me know what you are interested and I will quote you a price.

-JS

http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org/2010/04/the-return-of-mr-jin.html

by: 193.23.43.4

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/31/2010 at 4:02:32 AM
Thanks for getting back to us Jeff. Busy makes time fly, eh? BTW, aside from shipping, I didn't find the cost of the skins too dear.

Perhaps... a "Group Buy" may be a better way to go?

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - strength in numbers
by: 208.252.179.24

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by Law on 5/31/2010 at 6:16:58 PM
All,

This is read by me with great interest. It will be another issue I will face as well. The saddle is from a 68' B72. I have got a tin of Profide from my LBS and have worked it well into the leather. It LOOKS good but like others, the upkeep over all the years is questionable. I would hate to think that I will find this ripping apart on me as well. I hope for the best and will take what I get. The one issue I need to take care of involves the tension bar as well. I have to get, borrow the special wrench and back the tension OFF first. The nub in front that pushes through the hole in the nose has drifted out of it and I need to release the tension and then hopefully set it right. I have heard, read many times that people push it too far. I hope someone here throws some wisdom out as to what to do.

My wifes saddle on the 72 is a mattress style called Rampar? What are those? I have alot more learning to do.

Law
by: 71.71.4.177

           RE:MISC:   Seat tension. posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/1/2010 at 2:50:26 AM
Hmmm... I had exactly the same... unseated nose on the seat of the DL-1. Was able to back it off using an adjustable wrench... or 9/16 or 13mm open end as I recall....

Sounds like you're approaching it correctly though. My suggestion would be to adjust the tension by small increments 'til you get it right... or you see what may be seat failure. Then it may be time to back off.

Cheers

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Dubious... not having utter confidence in the seating arrangements.
by: 208.252.179.21




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AGE / VALUE:   Skandia Campi Record and DA posted by: Carl on 5/21/2010 at 11:41:50 AM
Hey all, I came across a really nice old road bike. It is a Reynolds 531 tubing with Skandia painted on the downtube. It says made in Sweden. It has Campi record and Dura Ace components. Just looking for any info on the Skandia frame/ year value etc. Or a headbadge. Thanks for the help
by: 71.168.88.248

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Skandia Campi Record and DA posted by Matthew on 5/21/2010 at 1:27:24 PM
Hi Carl,

sounds a bit exotic for this DB try the lightweight DB.

Matthew - he ain't heavy, he's my roadster
by: 86.31.85.73

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Skandia Campi Record and DA posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/22/2010 at 3:48:55 AM
Agree with Matthew.... however, I have heard of this name before so it can't possibly be an overtly obscure marque.

Good luck with your research and with the machine as well!

Nice Bread Reference too. ;-)

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Nebulous... yet recollected.
by: 208.252.179.27




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FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by: Darkwater on 5/20/2010 at 2:20:06 PM
This one's been bothering me. It's up for sale a second time on eBay; evidently no one bid in the first auction. I think it's an early 1950s Hercules, imported by Montgomery Ward.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290434416544&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

It doesn't look too bad, till you come to that close-up of the transfer on the chainguard and say to yourself, "Hum, looks like a good bit of the chainguard has rusted away. Next!"

But wait, someone else is selling this perfectly acceptable chainguard, also on its second go-round on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260605684406&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I think they're made for each other, and shouldn't cost much to acquire. But I can't give a home to another bicycle right now, not even a housebroken Hercules that's good with children. Somebody bid on this and deliver me, please!?
by: 128.192.25.122

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           RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by JDuck on 5/21/2010 at 7:21:44 AM
Thanks, I bid on both. The bike is just down the road!
by: 66.254.211.103

           RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by Darkwater on 5/23/2010 at 12:21:21 PM
Good luck, JDuck! And thanks!
by: 72.145.237.46

           RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by JDuck on 5/25/2010 at 7:15:17 AM
So I won the chainguard, but not the bike! The bike went for two dollars more than my max bid.
by: 66.254.211.103

           RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by Darkwater on 5/25/2010 at 7:58:45 AM
Shucks! Well, perhaps a better bike will eventually present itself to go with the chainguard. [grin]
by: 72.145.219.205

           RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by JDuck on 5/26/2010 at 7:27:34 AM
So I find out that the guy who has this auction house, that sold the bike, is a shirt-tail relation of my wife. I talk to him once in a while when I meet him at the post office sending off his merchandise. At least I can ask him to give me first crack at anything "English Roadster".
by: 66.254.211.103

           RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies' Hercules Tourist on eBay posted by chris on 5/26/2010 at 6:25:54 PM
Bless you my son, you make me proud.May the wind be at your back and lady luck in the front seat blowing the horn telling you to hurry up.
by: 71.40.121.165




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MISC:   Raleigh 3 speed front wheel removal posted by: John Hauf on 5/20/2010 at 9:10:35 AM
Hi all,
I’ve always had difficulty getting the front wheel off the fork ends of my 1968 Raleigh-made 3 speed and I wonder if anyone knows of any tricks, devices, tools, etc., to make that easier. I find it difficult to reach around the wheel and get an strong enough pull on the fork ends to allow the wheel to drop out. Maybe my fork is tighter than average. Thanks for any help.
John
by: 173.11.110.109

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           RE:MISC:   Raleigh 3 speed front wheel removal posted by Chris on 5/20/2010 at 3:54:47 PM
Grab those fork legs and pull and with your thumbs, move the wheel hub axle out of the slots of the front fork wiggly thumbs disengaging the front hub axle the wheel will drop out. tie a rope to one fork leg and when it's taunt lean the other way and pull the thing apart.

Gert somebody to help you

this is a safety feature found on most Raleigh

today we have the cheap "lawyers lips" metal piece that is slotted to keep the wheel in.
by: 69.153.86.42

           RE:MISC:���Raleigh 3 speed front wheel removal posted by John on 5/21/2010 at 9:07:31 AM
Thanks Chris. I think that's going to be helpful. I'll try it in the next few days.
by: 173.11.110.109

           RE:MISC:���Raleigh 3 speed front wheel removal posted by John on 5/21/2010 at 9:07:49 AM
Thanks Chris. I think that's going to be helpful. I'll try it in the next few days.
by: 173.11.110.109

           RE:MISC:   Raleigh 3 speed front wheel removal posted by Matthew on 5/21/2010 at 1:29:30 PM
Chris is spot on; it always works that way for me.

Matthew - wiggly thumbs does it.
by: 86.31.85.73




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MISC: 3 speed lubrication posted by: Justin on 5/19/2010 at 6:33:28 PM
I have an old Hercules 3 speed with Sturmey Archer hub that I am restoring. My question is about oil lubrication. Specifically, what kind of oil should I use in the oil ports? I read on Sheldon Brown's site to use motor oil and/or transmission fluid. Elsewhere I read to use non-detergent motor oil. Currently, I'm using 3-in-One but I'm not sure if that is sufficient. Any recommendations?
by: 68.14.13.165

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           RE:MISC: 3 speed lubrication posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/20/2010 at 6:34:10 AM
Oh no! Another dreaded OIL thread!!!!!

;-) Just joking around.... if there's one thing that will garner spirited conversation... a thread about what oil to use in / on your car, motorcycle, boat, bicycle... whatever.

As to 3 in one oil, I'm thinking pretty much we're all in agreement here it is NOT SUITABLE for lubricating our hubs.

Personally, I use SEWING MACHINE OIL. Others use single weight, non-detergent oils in the 20W viscocity range.

I'm sure others will contribute but there's a starting point for you.

Best of luck!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Oil's well that ends well!
Dingmans Ferry, PA, USA
by: 167.9.1.11

           RE:MISC: 3 speed lubrication posted by Chas on 5/20/2010 at 11:08:14 AM
So many oils, so many opinions:


A chat about lubricants.

http://www.youtube.com/user/GrahamNR17#p/u/8/0seykrZSKBA

Chas
by: 62.49.24.58

           RE:MISC: 3 speed lubrication posted by Justin on 5/20/2010 at 9:18:16 PM
Thanks for the replies. I have actually been using sewing machine oil in the hubs already. I bought the 3-in-One the other day and have only used it in the cable housings. Any particular reason why it's not suitable? When I was a kid we used it for everything. This is way back in the 70's/80's.

by: 68.14.13.165

           RE:MISC: 3 speed lubrication posted by David on 5/21/2010 at 5:08:51 AM
Some formulations of 3-in-1 include vegetable oils. That's thought to contribute to drying out leaving a gummy residue that's hard to clean out of the hub. Petroleum based oils are better, though heavier ones may be troublesome when it's cold. The pawls don't snap back in place fast enough and the shifting can be sluggish with SAE 30 or above.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:MISC: 3 speed lubrication posted by Justin on 5/21/2010 at 9:03:54 AM
Thanks, David. The 3-in-One oil I have says it's made of petroleum distillates. Hmm. I read last night that they make a motor oil that is SAE 20.
by: 68.14.13.165




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AGE / VALUE:   Off topic Waterford crystal posted by: Chris on 5/19/2010 at 4:43:53 PM
Found a ton of waterford crystal so cheap. 1.00 each per bowl? Can I eat out of it? use these as cereal bowls? soup bowls?

These have lead in their makeup. I don't want to look at it. I want to use it .

We already learned that you can't microwave it!

the microwave has made so much good stuff not practical to use. I want everything in the kitchen to go from freezer to stove to microwave and zap and re zaped and then ploped in the dishwasher washed and put away.
by: 71.40.121.165

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off topic Waterford crystal posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/20/2010 at 6:36:03 AM
Sounds like an intersting find. Yeah... not good for the microwave. If it's a large lot.... grab it all. Cherry pick the stuff you want and ebay the rest?

I'm sure someone will find it of value.

BTW... they SHOULD weigh a TON!

;-)

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Waterford.... nice!
Dingmans Ferry, PA, USA

by: 167.9.1.11

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off topic Waterford crystal posted by Keith Body on 5/20/2010 at 1:27:41 PM
Chris, At last something I know about. 24% lead crystal contains lead oxide which helps to make the hot melted glass ductile, lower working temperature, (about 550C)easier to engrave and cut because its softer. The lead does not leech out, but dish washers will harm it.
Most of the old glass factories have gone now, and skills are lost. It was worth more than silver in the 18th century. Microwave may not like the metal content.
by: 92.10.95.96

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off topic Waterford crystal posted by Keith Body on 5/20/2010 at 1:43:25 PM
Chris, forgot this, to get good prices it's essential to have the proper boxes because it's giftware, and it can easily get damaged in transit, or claimed to be.
by: 92.10.95.96

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off topic Waterford crystal posted by chris on 5/20/2010 at 2:48:59 PM
thanks for the tips! I am grieved to hear that skills and secrets are lost and equally distressed to hear that shops are closing and people losing their jobs. This has been an interesting post thread to read the answers to.

Ok, I'll eat cereral out of it and hand wash and display the rest. Some of it is boxed. I am trying to find angles where the thrift store imps don't know everything like when I find Williams Sonoma priced below Revere Ware. Solid copper heavy as heck candy making cookware too.

When you put the chicken in the pyrex dish and put water in it at first and then cook in the conventional oven and make baked chicken it's great and I end up having to share with everybody in the house but I learned not to open the oven door and pour cold water onto the hot dish and learned not to add water to the almost cooked food because the cold water hit the pyrex dish and it blew up inside the oven scattering glass everyplace. What a mess ordered pizza after cleaning for two hours had to take apart the oven and rebuild it to get all the glass out could have been really injured. Stupid and lucky a good combination.
Microwaves and lead crystal not a good idea either

thanks
by: 69.153.86.42

           RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off topic Waterford crystal posted by Chris on 5/20/2010 at 4:06:46 PM
Crazy prices for the large stuff. I doubt it sells. If it was not 1.00 each and with me demoting it to use as cereal bowls I would not want it at all. I don't think it has any mojo left due to the economic times we are in. Who really uses this stuff daily? these days? Na! No I think it's passe "the bloom is off the rose" as far as Fancy Crystal goes.
With granite, stone, imatation stone counter tops all the rage, don't drop a dish in the kitchen. Glass everyplace, miss a piece and then cut feet!

Having the original box and papers with this stuff is all important. Crystal chandeliers are a part of our past today everybody is so busy and crazy that it never gets cleaned in every restaurant where they have crystal chandeliers it's always tary, sticky, dirty. If it's difficult to clean forget it. my routine at dinner is sit down and unscrew the halogen lightbulb over the table before I dig into the food. The whole place has halogen bulbs in place of the traditional lightbulb and even now Edison is correct when he said "It gives off a ghastly light" too bright even if it is cost effective. Ok back to bikes
by: 69.153.86.42

           worring about the lead posted by sam on 5/22/2010 at 4:29:53 PM
The gov makes all the schools check the kids for lead in the blood.Every now and then some kids show high levels---the city staff got to marking where they all lived to see why---but they were dotted all around San Antonio---not in just one area---then they found very old maps that show where all the early pottery shops were---right where these kid now live---worry about where you live!!!
by: 99.97.143.31

           RE:worring about the lead posted by Chris on 5/22/2010 at 6:57:54 PM
Yes, they are right on it ignore the bigger things ignore why they were called in the first plasce but when thy do show up they are talking to you about the lead paint in the beads you brought home from the local carnival fair. The toys and stuff from China so much of it has lead based paint on it. I suspect they are testing for lead everyplace.
by: 71.40.121.165




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MISC:   So two Rudges and a Raleigh walk into a bar... posted by: Roderic D. Schmidt on 5/18/2010 at 7:39:57 AM
Greetings All,
So I have recently acquired three old Sports

A. A '55 Raleigh with Dynohub, 21" frame, no fenders, lightly damaged chainguard, Raleigh rims. Much of the cabling and the shifter are later replacements; the shifter is a Shimano. Appears to have been a heavily used bike, front fork may be a little out of whack.

B. a '62 Rudge, 23" frame, Endrick rims, pretty good shape but no tires on it so I haven't ridden it yet. Sadly does not have the delightful Hand of Ulster chainring.

c. a 54' Rudge, 21" frame, Raleigh rims, non-original fenders, similar shape to the other Rudge (no tires, haven't ridden yet). Cabling looks to have been replaced, but the shifter looks original. Has the Hand chainring.

The 23" Rudge is the one that fits me best and I plan on using most for commuting and the like; I'm thinking of swapping the wheels and dynohub from the Raleigh onto it. The smaller Rudge might end up a sort of pseudo-racer for my amusement- removing fenders, kickstand, and such and keeping the smaller rear sprocket, maybe invert the handlebars. It is a little small, but I want to keep the chainring around; alternatively I might swap the chainring to the '62. I'll probably fix the Raleigh up enough to ride but not use it.

So is all of this an abomination before Britannia? I won't be junking any parts, so I could put the bikes back as I got them, but is there anything I'm not thinking of that makes this a terrible idea?

Thanks
Roderic
by: 207.246.218.205

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           RE:MISC:   So two Rudges and a Raleigh walk into a bar... posted by David on 5/19/2010 at 8:19:52 AM
Everyone before you has swapped and cannibalized, why not now? If you want a "collector's item," there are plenty of old Sports available that are much more original than any of these. These are not the holy grails of cycling. Ride on!
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:RE:MISC:   So two Rudges and a Raleigh walk into a bar... posted by Chris on 5/19/2010 at 4:19:51 PM
It's not in landfil, it's gonna be used and appreciated you are ok enjoy safely
by: 71.40.121.165

           RE:MISC:   So two Rudges and a Raleigh walk into a bar... posted by Roderic D. Schmidt on 5/20/2010 at 10:35:23 AM
Thanks David and Chris!
I suspected it was fine, but wanted to make sure I wasn't going end up shunned for altering such fine machines;)

Rod
by: 207.246.218.205




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AGE / VALUE:   My kind of roadster posted by: sam on 5/17/2010 at 7:37:10 PM
English Rod Brake Tandem Bellingham/Seattle Craigslist
http://bellingham.craigslist.org/bik/1743080107.html

by: 99.97.143.31

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   My kind of roadster posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/19/2010 at 12:39:45 PM
Wow... and that's a steal price too....

I like it... too far away though. :-S

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - I could ride it home.....
by: 167.9.1.11




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   JC Higgins hubshell dimensions? posted by: Brent on 5/15/2010 at 5:30:17 PM
I understand that the internals are the same or very similiar to a AW, but does the different shell have the same dimensions as pertaining to building a wheel? I've been wanting to build up a 700c 3spd wheel for a while and found this Higgins donor.
by: 131.191.62.172

  Replies:
           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   JC Higgins hubshell dimensions? posted by Matthew on 5/16/2010 at 9:43:40 AM
Try the vintage lightweight discussion board.
Higgins were roadsters as such and the lightweight boys are more likely to be able to help you.

Matthew - from the dark side; heavier than heavyweight
by: 86.31.128.95

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   JC Higgins hubshell dimensions? posted by Brent on 5/16/2010 at 3:25:20 PM
I would have thought that this was the most informed group when it comes to 3spds...
by: 131.191.62.172

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   JC Higgins hubshell dimensions? posted by sam on 5/16/2010 at 7:10:05 PM
There the same.If your rim has 36 holes the higgins 36 hole hub will work just fine.You will need the correct spoke length no matter which hub you use,S/A-Higgins ,or F&S torpedo.
by: 99.97.143.31

           RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   JC Higgins hubshell dimensions? posted by Chris on 5/17/2010 at 5:57:03 PM
The Higgans has the three ridges on the hub shell. I remember the unique trigger shifters that went with them. I believe these were badge engineered (made for Higgans) by the Austrian company whose name escapes me.
by: 69.153.86.42

           RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   JC Higgins hubshell dimensions? posted by Chris on 5/18/2010 at 5:25:00 PM
Steyr Daimler Puch from Graz Austria made the J. C. Higgins hubs
by: 69.153.86.42




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Please clarify hub maintenance issue posted by: Dave on 5/14/2010 at 12:23:22 PM
I'm a little confused about hub maintenance. I've always believed that the 3 speed hubs don't need much more than a squirt of oil every so often, but as I look into it (I'm about to perform surgery!) I see the reference to greasing the bearings...only. Don't the bearings receive oil from the periodic oiling? If not, these 40+ year old hubs probably need more attention than they're getting. I just want to do the right thing!
by: 162.136.192.1

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           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Please clarify hub maintenance issue posted by Dave on 5/15/2010 at 6:46:17 AM
Never mind...I tore into and figured it out. I have some hubs to grease.
by: 74.5.78.192

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Please clarify hub maintenance issue posted by David on 5/15/2010 at 7:10:56 AM
The oil gets on the gear mechanism and, ideally, spreads around on all the moving parts inside. The axle bearings are fairly isolated from the oil and require grease.
by: 216.15.114.27

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