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Vinny


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English Roadsters


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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by: Dave Fish on 6/11/2009 at 6:44:43 AM
I finally had a chance to look at the bike referred to in the post previously, and I'd say the fork is bent...I'll post a few pics. The wheel was difficult to remove as the fork was tight, but once it was off it appeared that the left dropout (as it looks while riding the bike) is twisted out, and it does look like the blade of that fork is bent out slightly starting about halfway up. Please let me know what you think...and thanks again, it's greatly appreciated!


by: 162.136.193.1


Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Dave Fish on 6/11/2009 at 6:55:53 AM
and another view:


by: 162.136.193.1


RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Warren on 6/11/2009 at 11:15:32 AM
That looks very tweaked. Look down along the steerer tube and line up the plane of the fork crown with the dropouts.
You'll need a good shop with the right jigs to get this fork straight. Don't let the local grunge mechanic whack it with a mallet.
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Keith Body on 6/11/2009 at 12:16:57 PM
Hi Dave, you never straighten a hollow tube by hitting it. The forks will pull cold, with bare hands. The difficulty is that someone might have had a go at it before. If you can take the forks out, and find a tee square long enough, ordinary wooden one would do, you can assess how far out they are. The method we used for tracking was to put a 1" bar down the fork column (steerer), clamp in strong bench vice, and pull in the appropriate directions. The Raleigh fork will bend with one hand half way down the blade, and the other pulling the fork end. We used a home made tee square, and never apply heat. If you think this is too dangerous to attempt at least you may have some idea about whether your chosen repairer is capable.
Hope this helps.
by: 92.21.230.1

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Keith Body on 6/11/2009 at 12:22:44 PM
Dave, forgot this: most small lightweight builders would shorten the fork offset by leaning the fork on a suitable piece of wood and beating the fork ends with a soft hammer.
by: 92.21.230.1

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Chris on 6/11/2009 at 4:31:35 PM
I'm impressed with Keith don't forget attempting to just replace the fork- swap it out for another.
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Dave Fish on 6/11/2009 at 9:09:13 PM
Thanks for the great responses. I'd love to just replace the fork but I think it'd be pretty tough to match it up, seeing as it's green. I will try to straighten it this weekend. I'm a pretty handy mechanic...we'll see if that's true or not!
by: 67.233.233.85

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Keith Body on 6/12/2009 at 10:55:04 AM
Chris: thanks
Dave: If you get this right, you might be able to start a fork tracking service. If the fork blades (from the side) are in line with the steerer, the bending will be all at the lower part. You may find that you need an assistant with a long bar, which will be angled slightly from the ground, and leaning on the fork blade about half way down.
This will stop the top of the blade (the straight bit) from bending with the leverage. (i used to do this alone) Obviously clamp the forks so that you pull towards you, we used to put one foot up against the bench, and with the assistant applying the bar, just gently pull with bare hands.
Much more difficult to describe than do. You sound just the right man for the job.
Even if not quite straight, should be rideable. Best of luck.
by: 92.21.38.250

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right part 2 posted by Keith Body on 6/12/2009 at 10:58:11 AM
Just noticed typo, internal of steerer is 7/8 inch, I said 1 inch, which is outside diameter.
I think i'll fade out now.
by: 92.21.38.250




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MISC:Save old tires/ride new ones? posted by: Thom J. on 6/10/2009 at 8:05:15 AM
So, I'm wondering.....on the Raleigh DL1 that I have, should I continue riding the bike with the original(?) Dunlop tires and tubes or remove them and use Schwalbe or other newer tires and tubes on my regular rides? Are the Dunlops worth preserving in this way or not? I find that I prefer riding the DL1 over my other old Raleighs (Sports, Trent Sports, R20) and even took it for a 25 mile ride that I used to use the TREK 1000 (sold in 2004) "go fast" road bike for. The DL1 took a little longer but I enjoyed the ride more. I rotate riding all my Raleighs but there's just something about the way the DL1 goes. Thx in advance, Thom.
by: 63.204.42.231

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RE:MISC:Save old tires/ride new ones? posted by jgodsey on 6/24/2009 at 9:03:53 AM
is it just me? i wouldn't want to go very far with vintage tires. Just walking it back to where i started would make me grind my teeth. Tires are a safety issue, not collectible issue.
by: 75.68.231.176




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AGE / VALUE:Online Dating Guides had no information on this mystery bike posted by: Aiden B. on 6/8/2009 at 11:42:43 PM
I found this old bike at a garage sale in Milwaukee and recently rescued it from my parents garage, now I'm trying to find what vintage it is. The serial number is NH4274844 and is a Raleigh Grand Prix with the letters GT MK V on the back of the seat, which I believe is the model. The biggest clue I have, which may or may have no significance, is a little sticker near the crank which says Made in England, Assembled in USA. Unlike any other Grand Prix I've ever seen, this bike came with touring handlebars as opposed to racing handle bars. The only other clue I saw was what appeared to be some numbers stamped into the metal, but were quite faded. The last number, 0, was quite clear, then the only other visible number appeared to be a 6 just before the 0. Does that mean it was a 60's Grand Prix?

The last bit of information I have is that the derailleur says simplex, the quick release on the axles say Maillaro, and the caliper brakes say Weinmann 610 Vainqueur 999. If you need more pictures, goto this site

http://www.flickr.com/photos/intl/

or look up eidlyn on flickr.
Cheers!


by: 72.12.199.19


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RE:AGE / VALUE:Online Dating Guides had no information on this mystery bike posted by Aiden B. on 6/9/2009 at 12:06:14 AM
Apparently the picture didn't post, check out my flickr for pictures. One last thing, my mother says she grew up on the same bike, making this a 60s-70s bike, she may have said it was ten years old when she got it, making it a 60s bike.

Thanks for your help!
by: 72.12.199.19

RE:AGE / VALUE:Online Dating Guides had no information on this mystery bike posted by David on 6/9/2009 at 10:57:07 AM
Looks like early 70s. Handlebar and saddle are not original. Raleigh did a lot of "off-shoring" to keep up with bike boom demand (explains the "assembled in USA" sticker). Looks like a regular Raleigh GP apart from the newer parts.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Online Dating Guides had no information on this mystery bike posted by ken on 6/9/2009 at 3:30:11 PM
David is correct; it's been modified. Nobody used those composite levers then, nor would they have left the cables so long at the factory. Check the handlebar stem. Does it say GB on it anywhere? If not, it's not stock. All of those up to at least '77 had Burgess stems. There was a Super Tourer model in '76 with upright bars, which used a stem with a top-mounted bolt. (Not a Grand Prix.) Look at the pictures in catalogs on sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs
Early 70s is likely, based on the Simplex/Weinmann. The QR would be Maillard. From my interpretation of dating info on Sheldon's site (online dating! Funny!) I'm going to guess Nottingham, 1974.
by: 209.7.150.163




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FOR SALE:Raleigh Sports Tall Frame posted by: Ed on 6/8/2009 at 5:38:04 AM
I cant say this is 100% original but it was restored using real English parts from my collection. The fork and front fender are replacements painted over. This is a 23 inch frame with 26 x 1 3/8 wheels. I will send photos. contact me at langgang9 AT roadrunner DOT com This is located in Western New York State.
by: 72.228.180.106

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RE:FOR SALE:���Raleigh Sports Tall Frame posted by Ed on 6/9/2009 at 1:40:10 PM
hellooooooo..... anybody out there?
by: 72.228.180.106

RE:RE:FOR SALE:���Raleigh Sports Tall Frame posted by Warren on 6/9/2009 at 2:19:09 PM
Finding a potential buyer for a tall Sports with painted fork and fender with replacement parts often takes longer than a day. You might have better luck in the classified section.
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:FOR SALE:Raleigh Sports Tall Frame posted by Steve on 6/9/2009 at 2:20:48 PM
Hello Ed, there's lots of people out there, but I for one have got a Raleigh Sports (or maybe two, I'm not sure) !
Steve - Western London
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:FOR SALE:Raleigh Sports Tall Frame posted by Kevin on 6/10/2009 at 4:20:49 AM
It helps to post price and photos, and to state whether you are wiling to ship. "Pick up only" will limit interest tremendously.
by: 24.13.125.25

RE:FOR SALE:Raleigh Sports Tall Frame posted by Ed on 6/12/2009 at 4:06:45 AM
I could ship this bicycle. I have shipped about 50 bicycles with success. I am open to fair market value (i know the market is low). Make me an offer. Ed
by: 72.228.180.106

RALEIGH ROD BRAKE BICYCLE FOR SALE posted by kim c. turim on 7/10/2009 at 9:58:11 AM
Hi everyone!
i have a raleigh rod brake bicycle for sale:
28 inch wheels.
3 speed sturmey archer.
rod brakes.
tall frame.
great leather saddle.
fenders.
boys bicycle
made in england. {1971
great bike!!!!
sorry we dont ship {we are located in new york city

thanks!!!!!!
kim
917-855-9803
by: 24.215.231.173




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by: cmqu on 6/7/2009 at 2:03:10 PM
Recently fell in love with this bike after scooping it up on a web site.In tend to ride it until I die and then it keeps on going in someone else's life! They were built to outlast us all.
I need some advice from those more experienced.
The cable covering running for the gears to the hub has one frayed section( the covering NOT the cable line is frayed)- what can I safely use to reproduce this covering?
The only component not original is a missing saddle bag that disintegrated over the years(I am the second owner)- can I access one or is there any way I can get my friend to see the dimensions and remake one?
Thank you for any help.
by: 74.15.197.41

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RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by Matthew on 6/8/2009 at 12:49:28 PM
Hi There,

Do you have a useful moniker we can use as letters are a bit obscure?

You can replace the outer cable by purchasing a new one. Try asking Vin on this website, or look at eBay. If there is a good old fashioned cycle shop near you then ask them. Few good cycle mechanics will bite unless severely baited.

Good to hear you are impressed with your ride.
Saddle bags appear on eBay from time to time or try 'The Old Bicycle Co. here in England.

Matthew - what's in a name?
by: 86.0.90.248

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by cmqu on 6/9/2009 at 3:39:30 AM
Thanks for your help. I don't understand what you mean about "moniker", though.
by: 74.15.197.41

RE:RE:name posted by Warren on 6/9/2009 at 6:05:08 AM
name...
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:RE:RE:Robin Hood bicycle posted by Chris on 6/9/2009 at 8:50:52 AM
what color is this?

1956 may offer us a nicer color than just all black.

I had a lovely one a girls bike from 1948 found under a stairs of a bike shop the box had rotted away and I had to find original rims and rebuid wheels It was violet/ lilac blue and magical and like a fool I gave it to a friends daughter and he took it into the city (New York) and sold it. I stopped sending him stuff he had to hock every neat thing I sent him. She never even saw the bike!
So, when I hear about the early Robin Hood bikes I remember that back then , they offered different and better and special colors.

Never seen one like that bike since. They are all black or carmine red.
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by Steve on 6/9/2009 at 2:42:46 PM
I once had a girlfriend named Monica, she was sort of ice cold white (with a personality to match), she married a bloke with a pogo stick, I never understood her...and she never understood me !
Steve - an English Rose

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by cmqu on 6/9/2009 at 4:14:23 PM
Evening,
Was working on the bike after work today- under the seatpost is the number 10987 then RC under that. The hub dates the bike at 1956 but acording to a web site I found to date the bike from the frame I can't match the numbers I found...any ideas? I think I am on Sheldon's link for dating from a frame.
FYI- it is a woman's frame- burgandy with cream fenders- the woman who owned it said she was given it in Montreal at age 10( 1957)- she wanted a silver frame for the robin hood model but her dad said no- it would be more likely to be stolen ( curious- years later we canadians are still very cheeky bike theives!- worst problem I face commuting on my bike every day...)
I am not very good on a computer but when I get the bike back together ( repainting fenders and chain guard - I'll try to get my son to post a pic here as I haven't a clue how to do that.
Thank you for all of your help!
by: 74.15.197.41

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by Warren on 6/9/2009 at 6:28:04 PM
Raleigh numbers from that period are hard to sort out. I've got 2 similar Sports...a 90060RC with a '60 AW hub and a 55045RC with a '58 AW. Maybe the RC lettering referred to a division of the factory instead of a year?
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by jgodsey on 6/24/2009 at 9:11:55 AM
I have a 56 Robin Hood as well. She's in near mint condition but both the seat bag and the handle grips had rotted badly as well as the rear reflector. I replaced the grips with ones from Harris Cyclery. and I replaced the seat bag with the nearly identical common vintage black vinyl seat bag. I found it at an old bike shop but it didn't seem OLD, more likely a repro?


by: 75.68.231.176


RE:Robin Hoods posted by Mike on 7/6/2009 at 5:17:08 AM
G'Day. What a nice forum you have here. I just got a Robin Hood for my wife (she saw it on Craigs list and fell in love with it). But a previous owner has done quite an agricultural job of touching up the black paint. Any hope of finding the old decals? IKind regards,

Mike
by: 198.217.64.27

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1956 Raleigh Robin Hood Sport posted by Edward Fitzpatrick on 8/1/2009 at 4:54:19 PM
I am working on a Lenton Sports Robin Hood and it is quite hard to sort out the marketing mixes and combinations of the three names, Raleigh, Lenton Sports and Robin Hood.

The number stamped on the frame under the bottom bracket is #4501666. I can't find anything that explains a 7 digit no letters serial number for any Company under the Raleigh umbrella.

Take a look at my pictures and please let me know if you can help me solve my mystery.
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/eafiii/Bike_007.jpg[/IMG]

More Photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40949766@N05/
by: 99.20.251.180




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MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by: JS on 6/5/2009 at 6:36:40 PM
Thought you guys might be interesting in some pics of interesting butcher bikes. http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org

As always, your comments are appreciated:

by: 210.82.65.25

Replies:
RE:MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by Warren on 6/6/2009 at 7:45:34 AM
Great blog. If we all documented bikes this well we'd all know most of what there is to know about bikes.
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by Kevin on 6/8/2009 at 4:12:41 AM
It's really interesting to see old trade bikes still hard at work, and how they are being used to carry so many different things. Bicycle wheels with 64 spokes each are certainly designed for some serious hauling. Thanks for sharing the great photos and commentary. I imagine that you could have seen similar scenes in England, 75 years ago.
by: 24.13.125.25

RE:MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by Matthew on 6/8/2009 at 12:51:25 PM
If you look very carefully and if you don't disturb them whilst they are sleeping you can find trade bikes still hard at work; in the UK.

Matthew - carriers to the fore.
by: 86.0.90.248

RE:MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by Steve on 6/9/2009 at 2:52:19 PM
Mine are fast asleep at the moment, one is in for a shock soon...it's about to do 60 miles in a six to seven hour period...that's presuming that I don't fall apart first !
Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by Kevin on 6/10/2009 at 4:23:23 AM
Would that be the world distance record for a butcher bike?
by: 24.13.125.25

RE:MISC:Interesting Butcher Bikes posted by Steve on 6/10/2009 at 7:24:41 AM
I'm not sure about that, but I do know that Matthew has "run up" quite a considerable mileage over a few days on his finely tuned butchers bike whilst wearing a "go faster" helmet that had an animal attached to it !

Being as I'm a modest but highly tuned Olympic type athlete (with a bl**dy great big verruca on my right heel and an aching right calf muscle), I'm hoping to keep up with my wife (sensibly, she's using a "namsy pamsy" bike with gears) and hopefully not have to fix a million and one things (including me) whilst on route.

My basket will not contain pheasants, pork pies or packets of low calorie fat-free lard, but instead, will contain half a ton of spares (1/8", 3/16", 26 x 1 3/8, 26 x 1 3/4 etc), the appropriate tools and a small and faded book of wartime rationing vouchers or The Complete Idiots Guide to First Aid book (whilst stuck upside down in a hedge and surrounded by stingy nettles) !

Steve - yes, I'm the recovery truck (as usual).
by: 93.96.36.127




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WANTED:26x1 3/8" tires that take 75# of pressure. posted by: Bob Hess on 6/5/2009 at 5:55:13 PM
The title says it all. I have such tires on my '69 Raleigh Superbe but they're now bald. A pic is attached. I remounted the taillight to the center of the rack for better visibility, installed Campy Super Record pedals with clips & straps, and put on a set of old Campy brake cable clips on the top tube.


by: 76.21.122.111


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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by: Dave Fish on 6/5/2009 at 7:08:39 AM
So I just picked up a beautiful 1969 green Raleigh Sports, very clean and 104 original miles on it, according to the clicking odometer. Anyway, it pulls pretty hard to the right...why? I don't see any frame damage, crinkled paint etc, and can't imagine what would be causing this. The bike is ridable but pulls hard enough to the right that I couldn't possibly ride no-handed. The brakes are rubbing on one side, but I can't imagine that could affect it. Any thoughts? I hope the bike is okay...
by: 162.136.193.1

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RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Thom J. on 6/5/2009 at 9:16:20 AM
Dave- Nice find on your bike. Check that the wheels' axles are properly seated in their slots; both front and back. The tires may look straight but may be off center line just enough to cause a drift. On the back wheel particularly, see that the chain-line from the rear wheel cog to the crank-ring are in line and add washers if needed to get the spacing right. Also take a look at the rear tire/wheel and make sure that there is equal space on each side of the tire and chain stays. I've noticed that the rear tire/wheel will drift out of line over time from the torque applied to the pedals and transmitted by the chain. Finally, check and re-adjust the brake calipers. Hope this helps, Thom.
by: 63.204.42.231

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Dave Fish on 6/5/2009 at 10:03:25 AM
Thanks for the great response Thom, I didn't even consider that. It happened late last night, and I haven't even gotten that far in the cleanup as to remove the wheels yet. That makes total sense, seeing as the bike is in otherwise great condition...I'll check it out tonight. Btw, paid $95, not bad in my opinion and includes the frame pump.
by: 162.136.193.1

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Thom J. on 6/5/2009 at 11:23:51 AM
You're welcome Dave. Good price for a great bike. Especially with the frame pump. Those always seem to get lost over the years. You do realize that you'll have to post some pics when you get the bike cleaned-up and running. Thom J.
by: 63.204.42.231

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Kevin on 6/7/2009 at 12:17:16 AM
The front fork may be slightly bent.
by: 24.13.125.25

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Warren on 6/7/2009 at 5:19:10 PM
Ditto for the bent fork.
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Keith Body on 6/8/2009 at 2:34:56 PM
Hi Dave, Theoretically if your bike is correctly in track, when riding in a straight line the back wheel track follows the front. It is likely the front forks have been bent, and poorly straightened, making it difficult to ride. There are instructions on here for checking with a length of string, but if you have a straight edge, piece of wood? on the ground and just see if the wheels will follow along the edge. If you can post a couple of pictures, looking down the forks from the top perhaps, it might be possible to see the damage. These forks are easily reset, being fairly soft (malleable?) and bend quite a long way without damaging the paint.
I tracked up 100's in the 1950's
by: 92.3.7.138

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bike pulls to the right posted by Dave Fish on 6/10/2009 at 9:16:15 AM
Thanks for the great replies...I've had my kids over the last week or so and haven't had too many opportunities to look at it but I intend to in the next few days. I'll report back...thanks again!
by: 162.136.193.1




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AGE / VALUE:Tires for 1952 Raleigh Sports posted by: Kevin on 6/5/2009 at 4:17:19 AM
I have a 1952 Raleigh Sports, men's, cable brakes, three-speed with large frame ... a lovely bike that's fun to ride. It has gumwall tires. Were whitewalls or gumwalls even available in England in 1952? I'm thinking that seven years after the war, things were still pretty austere there and blackwalls were standard.

by: 24.13.125.25

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RE:AGE / VALUE:Tires for 1952 Raleigh Sports posted by Warren on 6/6/2009 at 4:20:29 PM
I've only seen blackwalls on 50's bikes. In the 60's, the standard Dunlop Sports tyre had 2 white line or pinstripes. In the late 70's we finally saw the gumwall.

Once black, never back!
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tires for 1952 Raleigh Sports posted by Keith Body on 6/8/2009 at 2:13:07 PM
Hi Kevin, In the early 1950's (I was there) Dunlop made several "skin sided" (gumwalls?") tyres. Raleigh fitted mostly black Dunlop Roadster, some of the upper models had Dunlop Tourist (I Think it was called) with silver/grey walls. Michelin made most of the replacement tyres. You may be able to find the old UK catalogues on here.
Because they were almost universally neglected, the Dunlops had a hard wearing tread, but always split the side walls mainly due to underinflation. Michelin were more flexible, but wore out before the walls split, so were more popular for replacement. Just a historical note of no importance.
Butyl tubes arrived about 1955, which helped to keep the tyres hard.
by: 92.3.7.138

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Tires for 1952 Raleigh Sports posted by Chris on 6/8/2009 at 6:40:10 PM
Keith is worth his weight in gold!
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:AGE / VALUE:Tires for 1952 Raleigh Sports posted by Kevin on 6/9/2009 at 9:12:13 AM
Keith -- Thanks for the great information. I think I'll keep the gumwalls, since they are period-correct and in great condition.
by: 72.12.200.38




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Follow-up to CCM Question posted by: Mark R. on 6/3/2009 at 12:10:00 AM
OK, I've blogged the bike with photos:

http://drumbent.blogspot.com/2009/06/newest-oldest-bike.html

I really lucked out in finding that the non-spray-painted front wheel from the display bike has the same colour scheme! So maybe I'll indeed try to gently remove the spray paint from the display rear wheel.

If not, Warren, here's hoping you might have one the right colour. ;)

Mark


by: 216.99.49.163


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AGE / VALUE: posted by: mark H on 6/2/2009 at 12:00:38 PM
Well i had all my bikes together in the back yard,i would like a better background but pushing 3 bikes around wouldnt work well.announcing my 36 ccm shes a beaut...i had to do a frame straightening with string she was bent.and i also did the mechanicals.enjoy


by: 66.183.159.180


Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:06:26 PM
more 36 ccm


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mar k h on 6/2/2009 at 12:07:21 PM
the herc


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:08:24 PM
oops


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:09:40 PM
the massey-harris 1923


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:11:26 PM
together,i wonder what they talk about.ha


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:12:28 PM
group


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:13:39 PM
more


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:14:42 PM
couple more


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:15:48 PM
36 ccm


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:16:27 PM
36 ccm


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:17:41 PM
36 ccm


by: 66.183.159.180


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:19:20 PM
ok 1 more.


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RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark h on 6/2/2009 at 12:22:58 PM
1923 massey-harris...1930s hercules im guesing 1932.and a 1936 ccm.


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AGE / VALUE:hercules popular on e- bay posted by: Chris on 6/1/2009 at 6:22:25 PM
There is a Hercules Popular on e- bay with the made in India 28 inch Westwood rims. It has an Ideale saddle on it. It was an old, decrepit, run down shop, in the ghetto of Detroit with running water in the basement, a ruin, with rebuilt floors, in such a state it was and it held these marvelous Ideale saddles. My heart beats faster at the sight of these and I can close my eyes and smell the smell of these French saddles and there was so much Ideale stuff there. Worth the risk of rat bites, getting shot, robbed, whatever that shop was PURE MAGIC!!


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RE:AGE / VALUE:hercules popular on e- bay posted by Chris on 6/1/2009 at 6:38:53 PM
Sorry, memories flooding back. I see an Ideale saddle on a bike and memories come back.

I was on the desk, on the mans desk with my hands on his shirt collar grabbing him, "find me more of those N.O.S. bayclife bags and he did, they trickled in, as if to tease.

Anyway, it's a nice Hercules bike and do try to search out Ideale Saddles in your old shops they are collectable and worth money, especially the alloy rail models.

I can only dream as to what all Hillary Stone is finding in the U.K.
Im off to England to compete with Hillary on his own turf, even if I have to swim there!
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RE:AGE / VALUE:hercules popular on e- bay posted by sam on 6/3/2009 at 7:07:45 AM
Ever now and then a hercules pops up in SA
like this pre raleigh hercules
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/1199853222.html
Needs some work--sam
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RE:AGE / VALUE:hercules popular on e- bay posted by Keith Body on 6/13/2009 at 7:41:41 AM
Hi Chris, Ideale saddles were quite rare when i was in cycles.(1950/60's) The UK importer was Ron Kitching in Harrogate, but his market was sport/racers. I had a direct account with Brooks, but personally preferred Ideale, but this was the racing range only. I was Kitchings largest retail outlet for racing components in the south of england.
You keep jogging memories I had forgotten I ever had, I think.
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WANTED:'72 Raleigh Superbe Fork Lock Key posted by: Bob Hess on 6/1/2009 at 6:01:03 PM
Here's the latest request for a fork lock key! I need one for lock number NGN-7. I've asked around at local locksmiths, but I'm in Silicon Valley and so far none are interested.
by: 76.21.122.111

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RE:WANTED:'72 Raleigh Superbe Fork Lock Key posted by Chris on 6/1/2009 at 6:21:28 PM
The original keys say "Wilmont union breeden" on them and the locksmiths books show it in the book. You will have to find a locksmith who will do it. You can just take the fork in and not the whole bike. I no longer have the keys to these but with more looking, you will find a locksmith to cut you a workable key. your key had the prefix N.D.N. before the 7
good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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RE:RE:WANTED:'72 Raleigh Superbe Fork Lock Key posted by Chris on 6/1/2009 at 6:22:12 PM
N.G.N. 7 yes.
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RE:WANTED:'72 Raleigh Superbe Fork Lock Key posted by rob eardley on 6/9/2009 at 12:29:21 PM
is this a recurring problem in your part of the world as I had an ngn 17 cut yesterday simply from that reference number? I'd be happy to get as many of these pesky keys as anyone wants. Locking the bike forks just makes me smile, it's not rational, it's just brilliant. Wheras having a lock without a key is strangely annoying....
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FOR SALE:More parts for sale posted by: David on 6/1/2009 at 8:07:13 AM
More parts to come over the next few days...

Phillips NOS single speed hub for sale (and more)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=190311638429

thanks for looking

David
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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:CCM question posted by: Mark R. on 5/31/2009 at 6:19:29 PM
Once again I've come across an old CCM, and this time it's a CCM "Red Bird", men's frame, single-speed w/ coaster. It's a faded brownish-red colour, and has some nice details. I'll post a photo link soon, but in the meantime I have a few questions.

The guy that donated it to our community shop said the bike was from the 1940's, and I noticed that it does not have cottered cranks, and he told me CCM were the first to have non-cottered ones (and I don't mean one-piece / Ashtabula cranks). But the BB does not seem to need servicing at the moment so I'll leave it alone, and I imagine I can figure out how to open it up.

The bike's wheels are ordinary steel 27", but with what look like the original hubs, since they have oil ports (as does the BB shell). The rear cog even has a slot in it for easily removing broken rear spokes. I have a feeling that at some point in the bike's past someone re-laced the hubs into 27" Dunlop rims, because I think this bike may have originally sported 28" (ISO 635) wheels, since the 27s look a little short and small inside the fenders. Does that sound right? (I know that many Canadian roadster-style bikes came with 28" that were 700C / ISO 622, but those would look even smaller.)

But my main issue is a stuck stem. I've worked on lots of old bikes, and know most of the tricks. On this bike, the stem is right down against the headset lockring, and the stem bolt is loose and spinning, no longer connected to, and cannot reach, its wedge. But while the bolt spins the stem is not budging.

So the stem and wedge are most likely rusted into place. Fine - I removed the front fender to access the underside of the headtube, and was nicely surprised at how easily the retaining screw came undone (this bike has obviously not seen much riding in the rain, and this is maybe the second time I've ever gotten one of those screws out). But of course there's the plug in the bottom of the headtube with the threaded hole for this retaining screw, blocking access.

Before I start prying things apart, are there any tricks to getting that plug out? Then I can properly access the wedge for hammering out or whatever.

Thanks, Mark
by: 206.126.81.33

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RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:CCM question posted by Warren on 5/31/2009 at 8:11:08 PM
Hi Mark...the frame will have a serial number near the seat tube lug and you can check the date here...
http://oldroads.com/oldroads_files/329_24.jpg

The original rims were definitely the 622 inch size. Contact me if you want to source original rims for the bike.

That plug is a problem. They are friction fit and usually need heat applied to the fork plate, which will likely damage the paint. The thread is unusually coarse but if you could find a suitable long bolt to insert into the plug you could then use vice grips, a hammer and moderate heat to get it out. But then you would still have to get the stem/wedge out and then reinsert the plug to mount the mudguard. Forcing the wedge out against the stem from the bottom could easily damage the steerer. I would suggest continuing the attack on just the stem first. Flip the bike upside down and try pouring in a variety of penetrating liquids through the plug hole to loosen it up. Be patient. I've heard that coke is an effective treatment but this could be a myth. Once you get the stem out you can likely get the wedge out with a stem bolt.

The cranks are easy enough to work on whichever model you have. Redbirds are one of the earliest marques from the late 1800's but they were in production for many decades.
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RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:CCM question posted by Steve on 6/1/2009 at 12:47:23 PM
More or less echoing what Warren says...controlled heat, lubrication and precision gentle hammering with the correct shaped tool (probably home made), usually wins through in the end.

I've never had to stoop to this level, but if you have a spare stem bolt hanging around, I suppose you could weld an extension on to it, grind/tidy the weld joint parallel, maybe even weld a nut on the end for better purchase...then you could use it again in twenty years time, when the problem raises its ugly head again !

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:CCM question posted by Chris on 6/1/2009 at 5:45:17 PM
I went thru the Weston, Ontario plant before they knocked it down. The Red bird was a well known C.C.M. bike. Wow!!
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RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:CCM question posted by Mark R. on 6/1/2009 at 7:55:29 PM
Hi Warren, I haven't checked in here in a while and I was hoping you were still around. ;)

I did find the serial number, and just looked it up before I saw your reply, as I still have the CCM serial # chart you sent me a few years ago. 1A3668 shows my bike to be from 1937!

The chart is still on my website at: http://drumbent.com/ccm.html , and though I sold off the previous CCM this new one will now take its place on this page. :)

As for the stuck stem, I'm quite reluctant to apply any kind of heat near the paint. I'll do what I can and leave the plug alone. I have some nicely toxic Liquid Wrench, and have squirted some down past the stem bolt, and tonight I'll flip the bike and squirt more through the plug hole. I plan to just keep working on it until it comes loose.

My last resort will be cutting the stem, as while we have lots of suitable stems at our shop none will be of the right vintage. Will take photos of the bike tomorrow and put them on my page.

So 700C for the wheels, eh? I have one front wheel here, and it's from a CCM that got turned into a railing at our shop (http://www.re-cycles.ca/images/2008move/img_3137_2.jpg).

The wheels for the bike were not too bad, but the headset, BB, and seatpost were rusted solid, (not to mention most of the original paint was gone and replaced with rust). The front wheel was removed when the bike would not quite fit the space, so it's fine and not painted, and I think I could save this painted rear rim (and use any old wheel on the railing bike). If I cannot I'll inquire with you as to replacement rim(s).

(I'll check this railing bike's serial # f still legible to see if its front wheel's rim will be more or less correct age-wise.)

As for tires, I may try for period-correct (whatever those might be) or use Schwalbe Big Apples, since they are rather nice balloons.

Many thanks to you and the others for the replies.

Mark
by: 206.126.81.33

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:CCM question posted by mark H on 6/2/2009 at 6:38:00 AM
hello mark r.those damn steering stems ugghh.my 23 massey was glued and rusted in so bad i pulled my shoulder out.i had good luck with pushing the stem down,with penetrating oil.once it was out 2 weeks later i saw why.i needed to force down into the track to pick up oil.good luck,i have 3 stems from 20s 30s if ya need one..
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