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AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by: Zach Mathews on 5/5/2009 at 7:52:29 PM
I recently had the rear rim of my DL-1 re-laced around a '58 SA AG Dyno-3 hub. It provided steady power for the first several night rides. Then recently it began pulsing. The change was sudden. This is not the rapid flickering normally associated with dynohubs, but rather a steady on/off pulsing - on and then almost fully off for each full revolution of the wheel. Has a magnet come loose? Who has had this same experience before? I have checked the wiring. The problem seems to be coming from within the hub. I dread having to take the thing apart, though I know there are diagrams to be had.
by: 75.3.234.156

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Matthew on 5/6/2009 at 2:28:36 AM
Check the full wiring first. Don't just blame the dyno.

Matthew - bright spark.
by: 86.31.35.92

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Keith Body on 5/6/2009 at 11:50:24 AM
Hi Zach, There is only one magnet, multi pole, held in by the 4 thin brass bolts. Does not need a keeper to remove it (urban myth), but don't park the magnet where it can pick up iron debris. But I think it might be better to have the armature and magnet out for inspection. This is where you should wish you had forward facing drop outs (fork ends) and cable brakes. I seem to remember one of these assembled so that the wheel was supported by the dust cover plate in front of the magnet instead of the bearings. It was 50 years ago though.
by: 92.8.120.111

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by David on 5/7/2009 at 5:56:31 AM
I will not risk any of my Dyno magnets to test Keith's claim that demagnetizing is an urban myth. If it's a myth it's one that was started and perpetuated by Sturmey-Archer in their service manuals, by parts they produced (iron "keeper" which I happen to have) and by a remagnetizing service they provided and which was (is?) also provided by the old Wheelsmith operation in Palo Alto. Therefore, DO NOT separate the magnet and armature from each other. If you must remove them, they come out easily TOGETHER.

Since you have an AG hub, you can easily disconnect the lighting and test the generator alone with a AC VOM w/rear wheel off the ground. I'd guess that there's a wiring fault and a circuit is opening and closing as the bike rolls over bumps. Good luck.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Zach Mathews on 5/7/2009 at 8:24:43 AM
Ah yes, the volt meter will at least put the wiring question to rest. A fine suggestion, David. Funny how the obvious can be so elusive. Thanks everyone. And Keith, I guess I do have reservations about repeatedly pulling the master link just to remove my wheel. The rest doesn't bother me. I just know I'll throw that chain climbing a hill one day. I do carry a spare master link just for the occasion.
by: 75.3.234.156

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Keith Body on 5/7/2009 at 12:44:37 PM
David, In my days as a cycle repairer I had hundreds of these apart. (was it really 50 years ago?) I had a SA keeper, but it is really not necessary. You obviously don't put the magnet down next to a bench grinder, or where someones been filing iron. You need to seperate the armature and magnet to clean them. I have a front dynohub which had 1000's of miles use with a BH quick release, and I made sure there was clearance between the armature and magnet by gently tapping the armature and a little filing.
I suppose you will believe the Raleigh frame tubing was something special because they invented a silly name for it. Don't believe their advertised claims ever.
by: 92.23.38.229

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by David on 5/8/2009 at 3:48:45 AM
Nonetheless, Keith, the SA service manual (NOT adverts) specifically warns against separating them. Wheelsmith DID build a couple of machines to remagnetize dead dyno magnets. None of this would have happened if there were little danger or ruining magnets when servicing these hubs. It never happened to you, but it clearly happened to others.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Chris on 5/8/2009 at 9:02:46 AM
This is interesting, I have seen the replacement magnetoes from Sturmey- Archer in the little square yellow box with the black and red checkerboard and it was just the wire wound magnet with the two terminals and the nuts that screw on the terminals and I don't remember an outer steel part in the box with it (but perhaps I am wrong) which is the keeper so to put the new part in you have to seperate them but the company always, always said not to seperate them.

Interesting that Keith says what he said. He would know, with all the years of experience he has had. I have been "all around the block and most all of the neighborhood too" concerning dynohubs. I remember the discussions about electric gizmos to re magnitize the dynohubs when they got seperated.

Interesting!
by: 71.40.121.165

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Keith Body on 5/8/2009 at 1:06:09 PM
Hi Chris, I suppose it is possible for the "permanent" magnet to lose magnetism over 50 years, I haven't seen mine for some 10 years or so. The magnet is the outer cast iron thing, the wire wound centre was always called "armature" which is obviously not correct. It consists of fine insulated wire wound on soft iron, which will not magnetise. I did AC theory nearly 60 years ago, like almost everything, have forgotten most of it. I suppose it would be possible to construct a set of modern plastic permanent magnets as a better replacement, but I am not volunteering. The thing is really a simple alternator, as is a friction driven "dynamo".
Keith
by: 92.22.112.172

RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Dale on 5/11/2009 at 9:44:16 AM
I've just run a sheet of light sandpaper around the gap, then blown it out with compressed air.
by: 12.236.220.1

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Dynoub pulsing posted by Chris on 5/11/2009 at 5:30:47 PM
Keith, with what is left of your memory I look forward to the places that memory can take us.
by: 69.153.86.42




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   How to tighten handlebars? posted by: Dave Fish on 5/4/2009 at 8:05:38 PM
I've been rehabbing my 1964 Raleigh Sports over the last two years, and will be riding it in the 3 speed tour around Lake Pepin in two weeks. I've never been able to tighten up the handlbars - they are fairly easy to move up and down. The clamp on the end of the gooseneck is completely tightened - the top and bottom of the split are touching and thus won't tighten any further. I'm trying to keep this as original as possible - any thoughts? All I can think of is to try to slide the bar out of the way and then use a cutting disc on a die grinder, or something like that. I'd greatly appreciate any ideas on something less destructive - thanks!


by: 67.233.239.192


Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   How to tighten handlebars? posted by Steve on 5/5/2009 at 1:12:02 AM
We only have two bikes here with a gooseneck, one of which is an elderly (but tidy) cheapo shopper bike (not Raleigh)that I found on the rubbish tip.
This had exactly the same problem, I tightened the bolt until it would go no further i.e. the top and bottom split were touching.
I decided to slacken it off completely, get my tin snips out and go cut a piece of thin sheet metal to shape and position it discretely inside the gooseneck, thus altering the diameter and then allowing the bolt to tighten up securely without the top and bottom "split" touching.

It's worked so far.

Be interesting to hear of any other methods.

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   How to tighten handlebars? posted by Warren on 5/5/2009 at 3:45:53 AM
Steve's got the answer...thin brass shim stock or even better, a small piece of aluminum pop can.

Has anyone read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance? A classic book that deals with philosophy and the notion of quality and very little to do with motorbikes. Except a bit about shimming handlebars with a pop can.
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   How to tighten handlebars? posted by Chris on 5/5/2009 at 5:27:40 PM
Beautiful bike clean and well cared for. I wish all of them were in the hands of owners like this!
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   How to tighten handlebars? posted by Mark Stonich on 5/5/2009 at 7:38:37 PM
I've use handlebar shims several times. I've found it helpful to put some JB Weld between the shim and bars.
by: 209.162.11.193

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   How to tighten handlebars? posted by Kevin on 5/6/2009 at 12:44:30 PM
The pop can shims work well.
It's hard to believe, but on one of my bikes, someone actually drilled a hole through the gooseneck and into the handlebars, then inserted a bolt, to keep the handlebars from twisting.
The shim technique is much better, obviously.
by: 72.12.200.38




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MISC:Something completely different.... posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/4/2009 at 6:17:13 AM
http://www.oobject.com/category/boombox-bikes

It of course begs the question....

WHY?

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Ipods could have prevented this....
by: 193.38.170.65

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RE:MISC:Something completely different.... posted by Michael on 5/5/2009 at 3:17:20 PM
They use them for green concerts or bicycle advocacy concerts. The "Rock the Bike" company, I think Number 4 on your URL is theirs, sell a bicycle powered blender model too.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=rock+the+bike&aq=f
by: 96.231.166.96




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AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by: Phil on 5/3/2009 at 4:23:24 PM
Hello, I found this at the local flea market for $30. No name badge on the neck tube, so I have no idea what it is. The serial number stamped on the frame on the mount for the rear hub is M583683. The rear hub is marked "Hercules Cycle & Motor Company" and "B type 6". The way the rear upper forks (?) are attached to the vertical and horizontal bars of the frame below the seat mount is different than other English bikes I've seen. Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be? Thanks!


by: 24.19.135.55


Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Phil on 5/3/2009 at 4:36:10 PM
Here is another photo.


by: 24.19.135.55


RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Steve on 5/4/2009 at 12:36:39 AM
Well, it should be a Hercules (of Birmingham, England).

The serial number (here we go again) is stamped in a common Hercules position on the side of the left rear drop-out, hub is also par for the course.

Unusual rear seat stays, I've never seen them mounted to the top bar before, could it be a Hercules Sports ?

Looks as though it's had one or two modifications.

Interesting.

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Steve on 5/4/2009 at 1:00:24 AM
I've just had a look at my pair of "sleeping Herculai" (one of which is a 1936 caliper braked model which I think could be a Sports version), and I can honestly say that the frame angles are a million miles away from the one indicated in the photo.

The more I look at it, the more I think of the word "bitsa" !

It's still interesting though.

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by David on 5/4/2009 at 7:42:48 AM
I don't think the Hercules hub proves anything. The Ashtabula crank and integrated kickstand suggest to me that it's not English at all. If the frame is assembled without lugs (welded at the joints) I'd say it's almost certainly American.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Matthew on 5/4/2009 at 1:07:51 PM
The frame looks like a GT triple triangle.

The rear hub sounds like a Hercules hub.

Strange brew.

Matthew - hubble bubble
by: 86.26.49.221

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Robert on 5/4/2009 at 5:07:38 PM
I believe it is a Columbia. I have a 1957 that has the kick stand the pierces the frame as that one does. It also looks like the in the rear drop out is Columbia style. Appears to go vertical then horizontal to the rear.
by: 70.3.112.70

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Chris on 5/4/2009 at 5:49:26 PM
The headset nut tells me it's not English at all. It American. The rear hub and the fenders and the tail reflector are British but this frame is American that kickstand, the Ashtabula crankset are American.
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Keith Body on 5/6/2009 at 3:37:09 AM
Answered already, no Hercules. But I would remind you all that Hercules were famous for one thing - making the cheapest of the cheap UK bikes in the 1930's (3.19.6d). This oddly was never forgotten while Hercules were in production.

by: 92.21.36.65

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Steve on 5/6/2009 at 8:17:21 AM
Keith, you've spoilt the illusion (again), but fear not, time is a great healer !

I thought my two 1930's (sorry three, including the tradebike) were priceless beauties from Messrs Cranes grimy back streets of Birmingham's industrial past.

I thought Vindec, Curry's, CWS etc were towards the "basics" end of the scale...no, I've got the answer...Hercules were actually well made quality over-engineered products, but the costings department got it hopelessly wrong and sold them far too cheaply, the nation recognised this, kept quiet, and bought them in their hundreds of thousands (until you explained a few home truths).

Oh well, a little bit of something, is better than a lot of nothing !

Keith, one day (when there's not much happening here), would you explain the subtle differences in quality between, lets say for example...Hercules and errrrr Sunbeam !

Steve - Britannia Works...it really does.
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Keith Body on 5/6/2009 at 12:29:22 PM
Steve, You might have seen by now that my opinions of bicycles tend to refer to the rideability rather than collectibility. My preferred bikes go forward with minimum losses, and are propelled by the up-stroke on the pedals as well as the down. The feeling of a 7 ounce tubular on a light rim. A balanced riding position, weight distributed between front and rear wheels is unforgettable.
Vindec were Brown Bros own label, supplied to shops who had no manufacturers accounts, or in other trades. Currys sold Hercules before WW2. Hercules produced the single speed basic rod brake "roadster" as an advertising gimmick, and were stuck with it.
Sunbeam, if you look at the brake linkage, for example, you will see individually machined links with far less lost movement. Raleigh also used machined parts, rather than cheaper pressings, but this went when TI restructured them. But Sunbeam cost far too much to produce, probably using the older hand builders methods, and the BSA versions gradually cheapened. I had (in 1971) one of the last John Marston cars, a 1931 3 litre Sunbeam, made at a time when the 100 car was taking over from the 1000 car.
Time may heal, but at nearly 76 it might not apply to me.
Keith.



by: 92.8.120.111

RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Steve on 5/6/2009 at 2:11:58 PM
Thank you Keith, but, oh yes there's always a but !

I have a tatty Sunbeam here, and I will say that the front rod system is a little bit special in comparison to all the others...BUT the rear is almost comical, the rod goes beneath the BB in the conventional manner then follows the seat tube up towards a "v" shaped lever affixed to the bridge on the seat stays (I'm not sure if it's called a bridge), at the other end of the lever is a simple hook which in turn lifts the brake assembly when it's activated.

It actually works !

When/if I ever stop fixing these tradebikes, I'll have to study it further, it's an interesting bike BUT, the thought of having a chain break in the fully enclosed oil bath does not appeal to me one bit !

My dad never had a Sunbeam, we had an Austin 1800...I had to push start it most mornings before (A) he could go to work and (B) I could go to school !

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Who made this bike? posted by Chris on 5/6/2009 at 6:34:01 PM
I have sat at the feet of many in this but I am sorry I did not have the chance to know you in person and listen to you and learn in person but this is the next best thing
by: 69.153.86.42




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AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by: Philip on 5/2/2009 at 2:18:30 PM
A couple of weeks ago I found an old bicycle which I think has been made by Phillips, although I can't find any badges or decals - the frame is very rusty, the fenders are rusted through and so are the Westwood rims. The lamp bracket has a 'P' stamped out of it and the rear brake rod passes down the left hand side of the head tube, it doesn't go through the lamp bracket. The wheels are 26 x 1 3/8 inches, single speed rear wheel 40 spokes, front 36 spokes, the frame is 22 inches. It has a Raleigh chainwheel which I'm sure isn't correct. There is very little chrome on the frame, just a little cap at the top of the forks - the handlebars seem to have been painted black when it was new - there is no chrome under the paint.

There is a frame number on the left side at the top of the seat tube, it is A67906 and there are the numbers 5 and 1 just below the first serial number. I'd like to rebuild it so that I could use it in the good weather.

When do you think my bicycle was built?




by: 86.24.148.118


Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Steve on 5/2/2009 at 4:21:26 PM
Front wheel, chainwheel and cranks are obvious later replacements.
I'm not sure if all Phillips bikes had the Phillips insignia in the centre/top of the handlebars or for that matter, the lion "renowned the world over" badges on the headstock and rear mudguard/fender.
Are there any rivet holes in the headtube or evidence of a badge on the rear mudguard.
I was going to say 1950's, but the black (unchromed)handlebars put me off the scent !
If the bike has had replacement chainwheel and cranks, it may well have had a replacement B/B axle (if not, the date may well be stamped on there).

Is that a Terry's, Middlemores or Lycett seat ?

Any Phillips experts out there ?

Steve - jack of all trades, but master of none !
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Philip on 5/3/2009 at 1:06:52 AM
Thanks for your reply. I've had a look at the headtube and can't see any rivet holes and there is no sign of any badge on the rear mudguard but it's so rotten and rusty it's hard to tell. It has a Lycett saddle. I thought that the handlebars had just been painted over the chrome but when I turned it over to start working on it I saw from the underside of the handlebars that they had only ever been painted black, no sign of old chrome at all. I'll post another couple of pictures. first the handlebars and then I'll put up a photograph of the frame number. Someone has put foam grips on the handlebars, I know they shouldn't be there.


by: 86.10.12.232


RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Philip on 5/3/2009 at 1:09:30 AM
Here's a photograph of the frame number...

A67906 with the numbers 5 and 1 stamped underneath...

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p161/Kaefer1/My-old-bikes-frame-number.jpg


by: 86.10.12.232


RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Matthew on 5/3/2009 at 1:27:55 AM
Hi Philip,

Never one to be faint with my opinions, I'll stick my neck out. This looks like a pre-war all weather (no chrome) model. The frame angles don't look post war and the wheels, particularly the front, are probably newer than the bicycle as are the pedals and crank.

So we are looking at a bike form the 1930's. A good find by any standards. Clean and repaint what you need to. Replace the chain, look on eBay for a Phillips crank, they do appear. Enjoy it!

Matthew - opinionated because it might count.
by: 86.27.190.173

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Steve on 5/3/2009 at 7:39:52 AM
Well, if this is any use, I have a Phillips frame here with a serial number that commences with the letter "T" and I'm 99.9% certain it's a 1955 model (the SA AW hub and wheel look as near as damn it original, and so does everything else).

In a simple world and working backwards on a yearly basis, I suppose you could say that "A" could equal 1936...but is/was life that easy ?
I also have a tradebike commencing with the letter "R", it could quite easily be a 53 model based on the above theory !

As it's Sunday here in the little Island of Britannia (and for that matter across the pond), wouldn't it be wonderful if everyone with a Phillips bicycle responded to this age/letter theory by putting their piece of Battenburg cake back onto the silver coated leaning tower of Pisa cake stand, not bother to wipe the crumbs off their face, spill the tea all over the freshly ironed Sunday best Gingham table cloth and go and have a quick look at the seat lug on their beloved Phillips.

On retrieval of said data, return to the freshly repaired picnic table and discuss it in great detail with ones other half, praising the positioning of the cloth and how it doesn't show the tea stain (thats now drifted down the garden path and diverted under the fence and into next doors Olympic standard swimming pool).

When things have calmed down (and there's only jammy dodgers and custard creams left), carefully sneak off to the computer and forward the details to here, where there are many specially scientifically trained people (that resemble a cross between Gordon Brown, Pythagoras and Noddy), who are waiting to exercise their logarithmical tendencies to the full before relaxing with a smooth hot cup of Horlicks prior to retiring to bed with a clear conscience!

We await your replies, with sharpened pencils and slide rules at the ready.

Steve - name and address withheld.
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by mark H on 5/3/2009 at 9:44:54 AM
well my phillips states on the bottom left chain stay k1104 and the sturmey says 52 it is all original i was told and looks to be so--but ya never know.i used a pencil and paper,to write down the serial number!
by: 75.155.177.92

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Matthew on 5/3/2009 at 9:54:40 AM
Hey Mark,

That's novel; I use a wax crayon and paper to do a rubbing of the frame number. Its not as sharp as a pencil and therefore safer.

Matthew - super safety
by: 86.27.134.239

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Steve on 5/3/2009 at 3:43:34 PM
Mark, we've come to the conclusion that your K serial numbered bicycle is actually a 46 frame that mysteriously vanished without trace until rediscovered by police in the attic of a house in Small Heath, Birmingham in 1952.

This was the conclusion to a five year undercover enquiry into missing "K" registered bicycle frames from the Phillips factory, a male wearing trousers with extremely large pockets (and known to be renowned the world over) was believed at the time to have been helping the police with their enquiries...he said he'd been framed !

The frame (like many others) was returned to the factory and fitted with Sturmey 1952 equipment before being sold on the open market.

Moving on...pencils, wax crayons, paper etc...it makes no difference to me, I still can't find the number on this Sunbeam !

Steve - time for a nightcap
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Stephen Hogben on 5/5/2009 at 1:50:16 PM
I am renovating a "old" Philips at the moment according to the 3 speed hub it is 1934,but as this the only part of the bike with chrome still on it I am wondering if it may be earlier.Probably the oil thrown up from the chain and hub protected it.It has Philips stamped onto the middle of the handlebars.I asked today on re-chroming of various parts of it,35 just for the handlebars!!!!! Think I will have to pay for it bit by bit. Want to do this up properly so I can do the London to Brighton on it! Got 9 bikes now people now know I collect them and keep giving me bikes mostly fpom the 60,s,running out of shed room!
by: 86.0.56.31

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Steve on 5/5/2009 at 4:31:26 PM
Stephen, I'm presuming the hub is a K4, I just wonder what makes you think the bike could be earlier than 1934 (as opposed to later).
Upload a photo on here so that we can play..."spot the angles" !

You've only got six weeks or so, if you're going to use it on the London to Brighton.

It's funny how bikes just drop into your lap, once people realise that your "a nutter" !

My wife won't ride with me on the L to B unless I use a geared bike, so it's looking like the 37 Hercules, I wanted to use a single speed tradebike (Phillips or Gundle)...in fact I might still do, but don't tell her !

Steve - have fun.



by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Steve on 5/6/2009 at 8:41:48 AM
Stephen, I've just been sent home from work and been advised to lie down in a dark room for a few days, but before I attempt that ridiculous order, could you forward your Phillips frame serial number letter (presuming it's got one), to see if we can make any sense of the Phillips lettering system relating to age etc etc etc.

I really don't know if it has anything to do with year of production, but there's no harm in trying.

It would just be useful to work out the age of something from the frame prefix (apart from a Raleigh) if possible.

Steve - thanks
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Stephen Hogben on 5/7/2009 at 4:36:50 AM
Right had a look At my old "Philips" yes got a K4 hub,no it has no badge on the front and no sign that it ever did. Looked for frame numbers could not find any,scraped through the mandatory five coats of black paint on the bottom of the crank,to find 3 letters B.S.A.!!!!! Obviously had Philips handlebars put on it.Where would I find the frame number? Thanks.
by: 86.0.56.31

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Steve on 5/7/2009 at 1:09:25 PM
Don't you just love it !

You think you've got a Phillips then maybe a BSA. I've got an oldie here...and I haven't got the foggiest idea what make it is, and neither has anyone else.

Oh well, I suppose you're going to have to scratch around in the usual places i.e. seat lug (side and top), rear dropout, rear of seat tube, lower head tube/stock etc.

I can't shout to loud because I've yet to find the number on my tatty Sunbeam (and I'm not yet in the mood to strip another frame down to bare metal just to find a serial number). I do know that there's someone out there that can date a Sunbeam off the serial number...I just don't know his number !

I reckon that if you "beam me up Scotty" a photo onto here, they're will be one or two eagle eyes that will no doubt be able to hazard a calculated guess as to what your unidentified machine could be.

As a point of interest, my Hercules bikes all commence with two letters before the serial number...I haven't got a clue what they relate to !

As a further point of interest, the engine blocks on Ford tractors used to have various numbers stamped into them, from this you could actually work out what shift, day, month, year etc the block (and loosely speaking the tractor) was put together.

Steve - verbal digitalitis
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Tim on 6/26/2009 at 4:36:26 PM
Hey Steve, how about a brass "Birmingham" headbadge Phillips rod brake roadster frame with 3398GS stamped on the seat tube clamp area. No Sturmey attached!
by: 75.93.4.109

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Danny on 8/12/2009 at 11:31:22 AM
Regarding the unchromed handlebars, while it was common practice either side of the war to chrome them, the British government outlawed it from 1939-45, and was still scarce in 46, so my immediate reaction would be to say its a wartime bike.
by: 74.125.16.66

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:���Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Alberto E. Seoane on 11/5/2009 at 8:15:52 AM
i own a pre war woman 28 wheeled original bike. Both saddle springs (original )are broken. Re painted and all original can you tell my the price out there? Thanks.-
by: 190.231.169.112

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:���Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Alberto E. Seoane on 11/5/2009 at 8:18:13 AM
i own a pre war woman 28 wheeled original bike. Both saddle springs (original )are broken. Re painted and all original can you tell my the price out there? Thanks.-
by: 190.231.169.112

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:���Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Alberto E. Seoane on 11/5/2009 at 8:18:15 AM
i own a pre war woman 28 wheeled original bike. Both saddle springs (original )are broken. Re painted and all original can you tell my the price out there? Thanks.-
by: 190.231.169.112

RE::AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Peter on 11/21/2009 at 9:00:34 PM
I have a few old at least 1940s phillips men bikes. One is complete. The other is complete but the relacement wheel may be a year out or two however al have 28" wheels. They were jet black with fine white pinstripes.rear gaurd has a fifth or sixth white painted at the extreme rear. Small tail reflectors that have an offset fastening extension and a screw and nut to hold them on. Yellow 'phillps' script logo decals on the seat posts. coloured lion on head, yellow small decals on the fork blade tops. sellors decal on rear guards and maybe another lion decal? Both need rebuilding. Rear chainstays are moulded and taper in above the rear guard mount. I cannot find any serial numbers on the frames. Perhaps they are on the hubs?


by: 202.49.0.2


RE::AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Peter on 11/21/2009 at 9:17:07 PM
I have a few old at least 1940s phillips men bikes. One is complete. The other is complete but the relacement wheel may be a year out or two however al have 28" wheels. They were jet black with fine white pinstripes.rear gaurd has a fifth or sixth white painted at the extreme rear. Small tail reflectors that have an offset fastening extension and a screw and nut to hold them on. Yellow 'phillps' script logo decals on the seat posts. coloured lion on head, yellow small decals on the fork blade tops. sellors decal on rear guards and maybe another lion decal? Both need rebuilding. Rear chainstays are moulded and taper in above the rear guard mount. I cannot find any serial numbers on the frames. Perhaps they are on the hubs?


by: 202.49.0.2


RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Peter on 11/21/2009 at 9:39:07 PM
This is the other Phillips I have 'as is'. It has a back wheel to go with it. Both have chrome bars so pre or after the 1939 -45 period. Decal head branding logo.Rear chainstays to seat post are formed or cast variety.


by: 202.49.0.2


RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by burperusmaximus on 4/27/2010 at 7:37:48 AM
I also have a phillips bicycle, but i don't know what year it is. It have a serial number (N623373).


by: 203.87.176.182


RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by josh on 5/23/2010 at 8:30:14 PM
I just found a Phillips crank.. I was wondering if it was worth anything?? My next question is will the crank be to big for a (schwinn) beach cruiser?
by: 98.112.15.148

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by iskandar on 6/2/2010 at 12:12:06 AM
I also have a phillips bicycle, but i don't know what year it is. It have a serial number F930165, PLEASE, what yeat it? thanks
by: 125.164.237.103

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Tucker on 7/3/2010 at 3:35:45 PM
I have had a Phillips men's bicycle since being given it - used - in 1970. I took it to repair shop in the early 1970's and I think that the gears and wheels must have been replaced then because the three-speed shift is plastic-covered; the rear hub is stamped Sturmey Archer 71-5 and the front wheel also is Sturmey Archer.

I don't have a camera handy and I am not familar with bike terms so please bear with my descriptions. The bike is black with chromed handlebars and faint gold pinstriping on the fenders. On the chain cover is a decal with "PHILLIPS" with wings on each side and a decal on the post that holds the seat says "GUARANTEED GENUINE ENGLISH EIGHTY EIGHT". The end of the back fender is white, and this same white is on the post that holds the handlebars, where is is the background for a bolted-on metal plate with the name "PHILLIPS"and a lion against a red background. A "PHILLIPS" decal also is on the bar connecting the handlebar post to the seat post.

I have cleaned and polished this bike but cannot find any serial number. Can anyone provide any leads as to its age?
I am not looking to sell it but decided to take it out of my garage to use - after many years - because my neighbor keeps asking me to ride with her.


by: 24.115.152.156

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Alejandro Battistotti on 4/11/2011 at 6:50:33 PM
Hi everybody. Ive just bought a phillpis bicycle with the following serial number. C089162. I guess it dates back to the 40s. Does anybody knows something about phillips bicycle with serial number starting wiht "C".
by: 190.18.98.238

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Seeks bike info from witty/snarky intellectuals on 4/13/2011 at 4:38:48 PM
Hello,
Bought this bike for $35 after riding it around a quiet thriftstore warehouse (split the cost with a friend who lives at same apts).
Hoping someone or two will have info on it. Might be hard to tell me anything just from viewing average quality photos taken with a phone focusing more on composition than on capturing such trivial details as a serial number or hub chain oil dyna raleigh custard gingham handbrake condition etc. I also do not have the experience necessary to suppose if it seems too heavy to fly over the ocean to North America for the company that made it (thus giving a possible decade of origin) to have been the takeoverers of the original maker.. runon sentence continued... and if so I also did not capture a photo of the owner who brought it here from the UK or Europe at large and then donated it to a shop in a town in a state in a region of a country where everyone drives cars and is pretty much too fat too pampered or too schwinn for a standard Phillips bike seat


by: 69.254.135.68


RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by another picture for above post on 4/13/2011 at 4:42:01 PM
here is another photo


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RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by and yet another on 4/13/2011 at 4:44:02 PM
I don't remember how to html a space to include more than one photo, lo siento


by: 69.254.135.68


RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Chris on 4/13/2011 at 6:10:50 PM
Welcome! Thanks for your post and picture
I guess, the more magical and rare the bikes people find and show and tell us about, the wittier and snarkier I can be!

Did the bike already have these tires you show on it when you bought it? or are they a recent, post- purchase addition?

Um, well done for $35.00 you did ok. you have a Raleigh produced Phillips your headset and bottom bracket, hub stuff parts are "Raleigh pattern" you have a sturmey archer a.w. hub the basic bread and butter 3 speed hub gear. it's a nice around town bike you can add a rear rack or basket or a front wald rack too carry stuff on it add lights, and whatever accessories that makes you happy.

bikes like this are never seen in San Antonio, Texas the land of the crappy thrift store. So consider yourself lucky to find this bike.

We can referr to this as a "Phillips sports" sports being the term for a 26 inch wheel cable brake bike.

Phillips was an huge company that was bought out by Raleigh a merger actually Raleigh in Nottingham started producing Phillips bikes (their former rival) in Nottingham.

Any question regarding this bike, ask us.
by: 12.91.193.250

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Chris on 4/13/2011 at 6:16:32 PM
The year the bike was made is stamped on the rear 3 speed sturmey archer hub probably sometime in the late 1960's

serial numbers do us no good in this case.
by: 12.91.193.250

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Chris on 4/13/2011 at 6:38:34 PM
In New York city these same old bikes are everyplace and in daily use
by: 12.91.193.250

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by JW on 4/29/2011 at 7:39:30 PM
Hi. I have a beautiful Phillips Bike 3 speed Serial Number Phillips 11365KS. Anyone know what vintage. I can send pics. Anyone know of the value? Email me and I can send pics. Thanks
by: 75.118.109.214

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by Chris on 5/3/2011 at 11:02:15 AM
Ok, I'll have more patience and keep the faith and not let it fade. After today's thrift store catch I promise to not knock the texas thrift stores. It's just, well I know that in other parts of the country the thrift stores are better, way better with better pickings. Today I swallowed up whole a Peogeot with Campy skewers and leather Ideale saddle for $29.00! I haunt the place every day!!

so, there are better thrift stores out there and texas is not so good but it is important to keep the faith and keep looking and don't get all crabby and depressed and just keep dilligent and the neat things will appear and surprise you!!

I have done so much dancing in the magic slivery moonlight and yet these days I get down sometimes. There is nothing like thrift store hunting!

I saw the best batch of coffee cups and saucers and I bought them all. didn't eat that day because I bought the dishes.

I love the Phillips bicycles, very much!
by: 12.91.193.250

RE:AGE / VALUE:Another old Phillips bicycle...? posted by ROBERT MARQUEZ on 8/28/2011 at 9:44:04 PM
I PURCHASED A PHILLIPS MANHATAN BICYCLE WHILE TRAVELING IN NEW MEXICO.IT APPEARS TO HAVE ALL ORIGINAL PARTS.ITS IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION AND FUCTIONAL. THE ONLY NUMBER I FOUND ON THE BICYCLE IS 4031BO. CAN YOU FIND A YEAR FROM THAT? WHAT KIND OF VALUE DO THESE HAVE. IT HAS ALL THE STICKERS AND EMBLEMS,BRAKES WORK AND BOTH LIGHTS WORK WHEN YOU START TO PEDAL.SEAT IS IN GREAT CONDITION.
by: 72.208.238.229




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AGE / VALUE:identification of Phillips posted by: Troy Thompson on 5/2/2009 at 12:42:17 PM
I acquired a ladies Phillips bicycle, red in color with an AW hub 3 speed, two handbrakes, two coils in seat, white rubber/plastic handle grips, the chain guard runs long and narrow and has the phillips logo on it. There is a coat of arms and a serial number near the seat post. Serial number is 3790521. THe badge on the front of the bicycle is a seated silver lion. The driver sprocket is just plain, no phillips, no "people design", it has 3 main center spokes and then 3 sub-spokes inbetween. THe seat is a quilted pattern of vinyl/whatever and only has two rivits on each side near the bottom edge. I don't have my camera handy or I'd post a picture. I'd like to know the year and model if possible so I can determine the value. I expect it might be worth $100 or more because everything appears to be original. I got it for $5 last year. Now I'd like to sell it or clean it up a bit and keep it as a usable collectors item.
by: 98.100.133.157

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:identification of Phillips posted by Steve on 5/2/2009 at 2:28:48 PM
I've never seen or heard of a Phillips serial number dating list.
I've dismantled two Phillips recently and noticed the date (or a date stamped into the Phillips branded bottom bracket axle), failing that...take at look at the AW hub, it should be marked there (hopefully it will still have it's original rear wheel).

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE:identification of Phillips posted by Troy Thompson on 5/2/2009 at 8:10:30 PM
Well, I looked further at the hub and it's 72 3, so 1972...the 7 is almost invisible so that's why I didn't catch it earlier. Now I wonder what the model is, are there any other dead give-aways in figuring this out? Is there a resource with all model names for a certain year and manufacture?
by: 98.100.133.157

RE:AGE / VALUE:identification of Phillips posted by David on 5/3/2009 at 4:30:00 AM
It sounds like the most commonly found Phillips of them all, a lady's 70s Sports model. It's probably Raleigh-built (do the fender stays attach behind the rear axle?). Phillips by that time was a second-tier Raleigh line (unlike Raleigh, Humber, and Rudge, which were the top lines) with wire fender stays and fewer frame braze-ons. If it's clean and original you could get more than $100 in some markets (Boston, e.g.) but you won't find much collector interest. Keep it and ride it.
by: 216.15.114.27

RE:AGE / VALUE:identification of Phillips posted by Troy Thompson on 5/3/2009 at 8:12:21 PM
Thanks for the help, it is indeed a 1972 Sports model, all original and not in bad shape if I clean it up but I'll just keep it and drive I guess!
by: 98.100.133.157




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AGE / VALUE: posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 4/30/2009 at 7:39:35 PM
It's been quite a while since I lasted posted, couple of years, I think.

Was coming home from work the other day and I saw a wreck in the back lane, old, English, still had 2 wheels. Out of the corner of my eye I saw it had a hub nut on the left side with a window on it, as for a 4 speed hub. Took a closer look at it, grabbed a piece of paper and gave the hub a wipe--FW.

Small frame, "JC Hggins, made for Simpsons Sears" headbadge, City of Vancouver 1957 bicycle license, Small frame, very relaxed geomety. Oiler port on the left side of the bb, serial # on the left rear drop out, non-Raleigh drop outs. Mudguards trashed but were better than usual quality, rims starting to rust a bit, but still true, with shallow smooth walls. Front hub was thicker than usual with a large wing nut on the left, the right HAD a wing nut, but the wings had dissapeared. GB Coueur(sp?)(Made in G. Brit) alloy brakes, even the pads still had Made in G.Britain on them. Handle bar was cut off on both ends about 3" from the stem, so I don't know what style the bar was, probably not N. Road, and no brake levers. No chain guard, no braze-ons for one, no clips for one, no scars from one. No signs of a package carrier or lighting either.

FW hub--missing the gear linkage chain (and probably other parts) and of course, missing the 4 spd trigger. No braze-on for the pulley, but thepulley clip was still intact, strange brazed-on square-head pump pegs though.

A so called Dept. Store "English Racer"? All signs point to non-Raleigh, Philips? BSA?

What should I do with it?
by: 75.157.146.6

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Warren on 5/1/2009 at 4:45:08 AM
An English Racer for certain...EA1 wheels maybe? GB Coureur brakes were de rigeur in the 50's... http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/gb.html
Keep the parts if you choose to not restore it. Or maybe Craiglist it to some aspiring restorer...maybe a fixed gear candidate?
by: 24.215.86.83

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Thom J. on 5/1/2009 at 8:56:49 AM
Edward- Nice find. I'll "ditto" what Warren has said but if you decide to dispose of the GB brakes and levers, drop me a line as I'd be interested in buying them. The FW is a great hub and as easy to service as the AW. I bought one off e-bay last year and refurbished it (mostly oiling and cleaning out the old grease) then put it into the AW shell on my Raleigh Trent Sports. When adjusted the hub runs superbly and I personally find it easier to use than derailer systems....but that's just me. Thom J.
by: 63.204.42.231

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Edward in Vancouver on 5/2/2009 at 2:06:33 PM
The FW is definately a keeper,haven't bothered to count the spokes though, circa 1956-7 would probably be a 40 spoke though.

Thom J. Your welcome to the brakes, don't have the levers however, the handlebars were chopped off about 3" from either side of the stem, so the levers and the 4 spd trigger are missing. Frame is quite small but in good shape. B-66 is kinda dried out and coated with (yech!) purple and silver spray paint.....
by: 75.157.239.204

RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Thom J. on 5/5/2009 at 2:37:11 PM
Edward- Let me know what you'd want for the brakes. If you can attach a picture of what they look like that would also be appreciated. Thx again, Thom.
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AGE / VALUE:stop and have a report taken posted by: Chris on 4/30/2009 at 6:16:37 PM
I saw a guy in a car smack this cyclist over and the guy fell on his hind end and the bike was still ridable. The guy talked to the driver and there was no immediate damage and the driver and the cyclists parted ways.

This was stupid. Damage ( injury) to the cyclist by way of some injury that does not show up right away can appear and the bike, upon closer inspection, later on, when you are not being hurried can also show up.

You always want to get a cop out there and have a report taken in case something happens later like you wake up with 1/2 your side numb or if the bike turns out to have a bent fork.

You don't brust that aside you have a report taken that is why we have cell phones and police everyplace.

The driver was in a hurry to wrap it up and be off without an officer there to write it up from an expert point of view and the cops are experts (mostly) because they do this all the time.

So , now if something happens or did happen the cyclist is out of luck with no report.

The guy got knocked on his a** too and it could not have been good for the bicycle either.

Anyways, I watched expecting to see the guy get run over but the car stopped.
by: 69.153.86.42

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:stop and have a report taken posted by Matthew on 5/1/2009 at 9:34:48 AM
In the UK this would be illegal on both parties accounts.

Failing to report a road traffic collision in which a person suffers injury is a criminal offence. You have 24hrs to report such an event to a Police station.

So if Steve or I had seen this then the cyclist and the driver would both be liable for prosecution for not reporting, if they failed to do so.

There is no legal requirement for a witness to report what they saw.

Matthew - more beagle than legal.
by: 86.27.50.96

RE:AGE / VALUE:stop and have a report taken posted by Steve on 5/1/2009 at 3:47:40 PM
My wife was lucky to survive an incident last year, she was so shocked at the time, she never took any details...the driver (who was in the wrong) departed the scene as quickly as possible.
I know it must have been a bad incident because I had to rebuild the bike.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, shock does strange things, life is a very precious thing !

Steve - stay focused at all times, if you can.
by: 93.96.36.127




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AGE / VALUE:Weird bike... posted by: Ben Wright on 4/30/2009 at 10:02:27 AM
Anybody know anything about this bike?It's a Magneet.Also says "columbia" on top tube.Garage sale find.Not sure where to post this message,it's made in Holland.Thanks for the info,-cheers


by: 4.246.209.203


Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Weird bike... posted by Matthew on 5/1/2009 at 9:36:13 AM
Extensive research has revealed,

Nothing!

Sorry

Matthew - doh!
by: 86.27.50.96

RE:AGE / VALUE:Weird bike... posted by Steve on 5/3/2009 at 12:24:19 PM
Looks like a confused low gravity mixte.

What do you expect from a country that names its leading football team after a kitchen sink cleaning powder !

The Dutch do some interesting things with (and on) bikes !

Steve
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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bottom bracket oiler posted by: Ian Bielby on 4/29/2009 at 4:38:46 AM
G'day Just found this great website - wasn't aware that so many of us old bike lovers existed. Can anyone help? I'm looking for a suitable (and correct) bottom bracket oiler for a '57 Rudge Sports. Bike is undergoing restoration and I just have this neat little hole to fill - I suppose I can tap in any old grease nipple but would like to keep the bike original. Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers from South Australia.
by: 58.169.226.142

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bottom bracket oiler posted by Steve on 4/29/2009 at 11:18:48 AM
Is it definately a grease nipple and not a flip-flop top oiler.
I've never had a Rudge, that's why I ask the question.

Whatever, these things appear on Ebay from time to time.

I guess it's probably one of the smallest items (apart from a pawl spring etc) you could put through the post/mail relating to a bicycle...cheap postage fee.

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bottom bracket oiler posted by Matthew on 4/29/2009 at 11:21:39 AM
Hi There,

I doubt (as does Steve) that it is a grease nipple that you need. It is probably an push fit sprung cap oiler. There was one on eBay Uk recently.

Some BB lubrication holes are threaded but not to a BSP thread for a grease nipple.

Hope this helps,

Matthew - getting to the bottom of the matter.
by: 82.26.74.21




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:What have I got? posted by: Bomberman on 4/28/2009 at 12:29:39 PM
I have just aquired a lovely old bike but I have noidea what it is.
Can someone shed some light on it please?


by: 80.41.160.19


Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:What have I got? posted by Steve on 4/28/2009 at 2:12:31 PM
I'll put my neck on the line and say...1930's something !

The chainwheel looks plain, is there a letter or emblem in the lamp holder or is it plain ?

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:What have I got? posted by Chris on 4/28/2009 at 6:19:03 PM
looks like a chater lea chainwheel i like the bike especially the seat very cool bike have fun the side linkage tells me it's not a raleigh very cool bike i am jealous
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:What have I got? posted by Peter Fuller on 4/29/2009 at 5:28:51 AM
There is a hub gear - any small letters or numbers stamped on the hub, Bomberman? You have to examine closely - we might expect K followed by a number for example, or AW with a date code - 47 10 indicating October 1947.
I'd say from the sloping top tube it would be described as a Light Roadster usually.
Any chance of a sharp photo? The handlebars and brake levers look interesting.
Looks complete - should scrub up well. Love the saddle.

Pete F.
by: 93.174.217.140




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Rattling Chain-Case posted by: Shar on 4/28/2009 at 9:07:26 AM
Hi all - I just bought my first vintage bicycle-- a 1948 Raleigh with most of its original parts. Utterly new to this whole thing and I've only had the bike about a week, but-- the chain case rattles a lot while I'm riding, I was wondering if there's a solution to this? Any good instruction sites on removing and reinstalling the thing, if that would potentially fix it? Any and all recommendations are appreciated-- like I said, brand new to this! :)


by: 138.88.72.215


Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Rattling Chain-Case posted by Steve on 4/28/2009 at 12:06:52 PM
Shar, are you sure the chain is not touching the upper inner casing of the chainguard, from the picture it looks as though it's been in a battle.

Failing that, check the retaining screws, there's usually one behind the "pie lid" (you will have to remove the "mouses door" in order to slip the lid off) and one or two at the other end of the guard.
Oh, check the removable quadrant (by the sprocket) and the probable two sliders at the rear for tightness.

I once had a very similar bike to yours, and somehow the chain had been routed the wrong side of the retaining screw on the inside of the guard towards the sprocket !

Finally, the cranks sometimes rub on the "pie lid" surround, gentle persuasion of the surrounds with the palms of your hands can sometimes move it a fraction away from the cranks and stop the irritating "tinny" rubbing.

Good luck

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Rattling Chain-Case posted by mark H on 4/28/2009 at 12:15:04 PM
hello try finding out if its rubbing while your gliding or pedalling.if its pedalling have someone hold the ass of the bike off the ground by the seat.and then with your ear close to the guard pedal the bike.it will sound where its rubbing.not all the time but the chaincase acts as a enclosed speaker of sorts.then you can start stopping the noises.



those dang chaincases cant live with them or without them!
by: 75.155.177.92

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Rattling Chain-Case posted by Steve on 4/28/2009 at 12:45:28 PM
I forgot to say, be prepared to undo the gear cable connector, remove chain, back wheel, chainwheel/crank if you want to remove it completely.

This might allow you to inspect the upper inner casing in a more accessible manner.

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Rattling Chain-Case posted by Shar on 4/28/2009 at 1:49:11 PM
Thanks for the quick replies, guys!!
Whew, looks like I'm going to have to get intimate with this thing sooner than expected, haha.
by: 138.88.72.215

RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Rattling Chain-Case posted by Warren on 4/28/2009 at 2:34:00 PM
Here's a small scan of the first steps in dismantling the beast...

http://oldroads.com/oldroads_files/329_17.jpg
by: 24.215.86.83




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AGE / VALUE:Strange Roadster posted by: Ken on 4/27/2009 at 6:23:00 AM
Not sure which forum to use but this is as close as I can find....Got this Italian Roadster from Sardinia, Italy. Anyone have an idea of it's worth or collectibility, parts sources, etc? has 28" wheels. the rear brake rods make an extra turn and are mounted up behind the seat! Thanks for any guidance, replies, etc.


by: 71.123.89.206


Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE:Strange Roadster posted by Steve on 4/27/2009 at 10:53:21 AM
The only rod brake bike I've had with the rear brake in that position was a Sunbeam.

Does the badge (or decals, if that's what they are) give any clues to the manufacturer.

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Strange Roadster posted by Ken on 4/27/2009 at 12:08:47 PM
Hey Steve-thanks for the reply. I'm just coming off a web search; the manufacturer was S. Vadilonga from Sardinia. Looks like the company is making modern bikes but offers no historical data on the site.
by: 71.123.89.206

RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Strange Roadster posted by Warren on 4/27/2009 at 8:10:12 PM
Reflectors in the pedals is typical of post-1970 bikes if this make holds true to form. Many famous Italian marques made these urban rod brake cruisers, I tried and failed to buy a similar Bianchi from a commuter over the course of a year.
by: 24.215.86.83




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AGE / VALUE: posted by: markH on 4/26/2009 at 8:14:37 PM
has anyone had to fix the rod brake adjuster?the one that the rod goes through?i pulled the stud from the unit.had my handlebars on and off to many times.thanks
by: 75.155.177.92

Replies:
RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Matthew on 4/26/2009 at 11:52:04 PM
Hi Mark,

Please could you be a little more specific? Front? Rear? etc would help us to help you.

Matthew - upright and slow
by: 82.2.132.139

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Steve on 4/27/2009 at 1:34:41 AM
Fossilised "adjusters", worn rods, bent rods, rounded off adjuster nuts, damaged threads etc etc.

Rods versus cables...hmmmmmm, yes it's very frustrating when you've got to remove the handlebars just to rectify a rod brake problem.

I think I might know where you're coming from, but any chance of a picture, and what's actually wrong with the adjuster.

I/we love to learn from other peoples problems, that's if I/we haven't already had the problem in question, of course !

Steve - thinking
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark H on 4/27/2009 at 10:19:19 AM
here it is the little bastard! im gonna go hardware store huntin.


by: 75.155.177.92


RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Steve on 4/27/2009 at 11:18:05 AM
Is this off one of the two down rods in front of the headtube ?
I call those "adjusters", if I've got a kinked or grooved rod and I can't get any more adjustment, that's when I sometimes fiddle with the handlebars !

Anyhow, it looks as though you've got it off, just got to fix it now with a replacement.

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Strange ass Brake tube eyebolt part posted by Chris on 4/27/2009 at 1:05:02 PM
This does not look like any "brake tube eyebolt" that I have ever seen but that is the proper name for it.

So many bikes, and all those widgets I have seen over the years and I have never seen one of these!
by: 69.153.86.42

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark H on 4/27/2009 at 6:52:45 PM
thanks guys,yup this is the adjuster for the rod that fits in the brake caliper.the other one is the same.im sure there 30s parts.they look like theyve been in there along time.i thought someone might have a easy fix.with a known part.i have used similiar doodads for holding broken cables.
by: 75.155.177.92

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Steve on 4/28/2009 at 2:12:42 AM
Mark, the 1930's bikes I currently have here all have a fixed stem attached to the top of the brake caliper (the arch), the adjustment is made at the other end of the stem where the "down" rod enters the stem.
I'm intrigued by what set-up you have there, be handy to see a good clear picture of your fix when you've done it.

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by mark H on 4/28/2009 at 5:29:05 AM
hello steve,i should have explained better.its exactly what you think,the adjustable thing that holds the rod for adjustment,on the rod that is on the handlebar.i just thought that alot of people would have broken these.ive had mine on and off so many times now that it couldnt take anymore.sorry for the confusion.i think i asked the right way the first time?[rod brake adjuster?the one that the rod goes through]?ha funny.again sorry for the bad question.
by: 75.155.177.92

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Steve on 4/28/2009 at 9:06:00 AM
Mark, believe it or not...I've never had one brake.

Maybe that's because I wake the seized adjusters up with the flame thrower or, file two of the worn nut edges straight again so that I can get a spanner or mole grips attached (that's presuming it's a shaped head) or wake-up the "dopey" screwdriver slot with a junior hacksaw blade (if it's of that type) before using a decent screwdriver to get some direct/snug force into the slot without rounding the edges off the slot.

It goes without saying that I usually "tap" stubborn objects and soak them a day or two beforehand with penetrating fluid, before attacking them !

Steve - have fun

by: 93.96.36.127

RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Steve on 4/28/2009 at 2:20:38 PM
Sorry, I meant to say... "believe it or not, I've never had one break"

Steve
by: 93.96.36.127




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:age query posted by: adam on 4/26/2009 at 5:09:32 PM
Hi,
I have a query that I was hoping one of you might be able to help with. I've just bought a BSA bicycle with an eye to restoring it and I'd like to know if anyone has an idea on age as the wonder of the internet is letting me down. I'll tell you what I know from my own deductions and talking ot the guy who sold it to me. (might be worth noting i'm in the uk and the seller had woked for BSA)
It's a single speed with rod brakes and complete cycle guard, Not sure on sizing as haven't had a chance to measure up. It was exported to India where it had some minor modifications including a parcel rack and some transfers, (all original and very nice I might add, particularly the rubber mudguard extension) and was recently imported home in original slightly rusted condition. There is what I assume to be a serial number on the seat tube which reads zk120881. I've looked for an archive of serial numbers but come up empty and was hoping one of you knowldegable sorts might have access to a catalogue or similar resource,
yours hopefully,

Adam
by: 86.10.10.100

Replies:
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:age query posted by Matthew on 4/26/2009 at 11:54:14 PM
Hi Adam,

Post a picture or at least a link to a picture. This will be so much help in trying to date the bicycle.

Matthew - it's all in the evidence
by: 82.2.132.139

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