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AGE / VALUE:   700 c tires at Walmart Raleigh tourist doubt it'll fit posted by: Christopher on 6/19/2011 at 9:46:47 AM
It does not look like the so called universal 700 c tire at wal mart will fit the Raleigh tourist d.l.1. The 28 x 1 1/2 tire for the 28 inch rod brake Raleigh Tourist is unique The standard tire! yes

I will see, I'll save the reciept and try it, knowing it will not be an acceptable fit

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   700 c tires at Walmart Raleigh tourist doubt it'll fit posted by David on 6/20/2011 at 5:08:30 AM
"Universal" fit? What is that supposed to mean? You need a 635 to fit a Raleigh DL-1, not a 622. Don't bother wasting everyone's time to try to fit one.

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   700 c tires at Walmart Raleigh tourist doubt it'll fit posted by Chris on 6/20/2011 at 10:18:37 AM
stay tuned

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   700 c tires at Walmart Raleigh tourist doubt it'll fit posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/25/2011 at 6:15:03 AM


Larry "Boneman" Bone - obfuscation.... a state of bliss?

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   700 c tires at Walmart Raleigh tourist doubt it'll fit posted by Chris on 6/25/2011 at 8:34:21 AM
yeah, got sidetracked, sorry about that! I doubt it will fit but I gotta see. I will get back to this

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WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by: Rajiv Fernando on 6/19/2011 at 8:52:58 AM
I am Rajiv from Sri Lanka , I am restoring my grand father's Raleigh bike and need some spare parts , can somebody help me please .

           RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Chris on 6/19/2011 at 9:37:17 AM
What exactly are you needing? What size wheels is this bike can you describe the bike? describe the parts you need. Thanks

           RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Rajiv Fernando on 6/20/2011 at 4:25:32 AM
Thanks for the reply , its 1950 Raleigh 3-Speed English Roadster -
Possibly a "Tourist Model 2" or "DL1"
24" frame with 28" wheels
. What I exactly need is a handle , seat , and the hub brake rods(complete set if possible), Chain full case and mud guards. , please send me your email address so Ill send some pictures for your reference.Thanks Rajiv


           RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Rajiv Fernando on 6/20/2011 at 4:43:58 AM
http://www.oldstuff.in/2011/01/raleigh-superbe-roadster-1967.html/raleigh-superbe-roadster-1967 - please see the site similar bike

           RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by David on 6/20/2011 at 5:21:24 AM
You will have trouble finding these parts except attached to another Roadster! Won't parts from the Indian clone bikes (Hero, e.g.) fit your Raleigh?

           RE:RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Rajiv Fernando on 6/20/2011 at 6:12:31 AM
Thanks . yes you are right Indian Raleigh and Hero bikes are available but nothing like the original English Raleigh. I'll go for it if I fail to find the parts.
Thanks a lot for the reply

           RE:RE:RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/21/2011 at 2:36:00 AM
Good luck Rajiv! PICTURES when and if you can.


Larry "Boneman" Bone

           RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Rajiv Fernando on 6/21/2011 at 9:15:14 AM
see the pictures of my Raleigh Roadster 3 speed on


           RE:RE:WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster - 3 speed posted by Chris on 6/21/2011 at 12:49:14 PM
look on e- bay for original parts.

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AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh tourist D.L.1. front hub conversion posted by: Chris on 6/18/2011 at 8:07:27 AM
The following post is about hacking a work around to the problem of the lack of availability of original parts. It's about using what we have on hand and what is available in the shop drawers and using what we can off of junk yard bikes. The goal is to cut costs, make the bike better.

I will not pay $40.00 for a set of Raleigh hub cones.

This following post is my own experiments after studying the cataolog, Daniel Rebour drawings, Ron Kitching Catalogs, and all other available catalogs. It is with years of experience with Raleigh bicycles, the various models and with experince and knowing the ins and outs of parts, componet parts, the countries of their origin, the history as in who copied who and so on.
And just being a mad tinker who is willing to change, bend and re- write the rules. I am being a bicycle heretic and I don't yet feel comfortable to recommend this with your bikes. I will not be held responsible if you mess up and your front wheel comes off. Take care to make damned sure the front wheel is securely in the front fork and will not go anywhere use serrated washers, and homade lawyers lips and don't ride the bike until you are sure the idea is sound and that the bike is safe. So do not do this at home!
Not until all the bugs are worked out of what I am doing. Read the following carefully.

This started with seeing a picture of a quick release hub a G.B. or was it Gnutti? or both! small Raleigh style front hub with a quick release leaver the leaver was G.B. or Gerry Burgess whom is passed on now.

I have a set of Peugeot wheels 27 in Rigida rims with a front Normandy hub with a Simplex quick release hub

A Phillips or Raleigh style nutted steel low flange front hub in my 28 inch wheel Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. the same hub as are in ALL Raleigh Sports and rod brake Tourists actually the hub is a Phillips but they are almost identical in appearence. The cones for these wear out quickly they pit and crack there are cones for sale for 40.00 while you can get a whole hub for that or less with shipping in fleabay. The design is flawed with the spigots Raleigh designed to be their safety device for keeping your front wheel in place the wheel retention device as it is known these spigiots that fit into the Raleigh fork these put tightness and wear out the cones you need to use the updated washer with the spigiot and don't run the cones so tight but let a smitch of play just a bit loose. A bit.

So I took out the front hub innards out of the small flange plain front Phillips/ Raleigh hub leaving the original bearings in the hub I pulled out the solid axle and cones and set them aside.

Now, I took out the alloy, high flange, Normandy hub's quick release skewer, axle and cones and lock nuts leaving in the original bearings sitting in grease in the hub I was careful not to dislodge the bearings original bearings.

Now the fun part! I slipped in the Normandy quick release axle, cones,axle nuts, the washer with the groove that fit the normandy axle, the Simplex quick release and end piece and with a set of Sturmey- Archer G.H.6. front dynohub serrated washers on the sides. It all fit! I have a quick release in the front wheel of my Raleigh Tourist D.L.1.

The wheel turns better, smoother and it's held in the front fork but still I don't trust it 100% not yet. Also, some raleigh forks for the 28 inch wheel d.l.1 have seperate attaching points for the alloy front fender stay some do not. Mine does not so there is no front fender on my bike. I need a set of fenders or mudguards as they are called. and even if I had the fender the fork does not have the stay that is seperate. Still, to have a quick release on the front hub of the Raleigh Sports or Tourist D.L.1 is really cool. Sure, you loose the red Raleigh R nuts but the cones are available in any shop, off modern bikes to be found in shops, and anyplace. Plus it spins better!

Now, the solid steel Phillips/Raleigh front axle and cones are in the Normandy high flange alloy front hub. I removed the metal press fit dust covers exposing the bearings more than is acceptable it is unacceptable to remove these covers but the cones fit and it fits! and spins better!

I am thinking about homemade plastic covers attached to the high flange front hub's sides to keep out dust and dirt and rain out of the bearings.

There is a wobble in the wheel now and that needs to be worked out perhaps this will not work acceptable in practice. I will experiement with changing ball bearings different sizes?

anyways, the Phillips/ Raleigh hub axle is in the normandy hub with the original red Raleigh R nuts with their captive serrated washer holding the front hub and whole wheel in the bike it is not going anywheres its secure in the bike but there is that wobble that will interfere with brakes and I have Mafaac Racer brakes in the 27 inch wheel Raleigh Sprite 10 speed.

A bit back wards and stupid to fit nutted Raleigh style solid axles in a alloy normandy hub it's no longer a quick release hub! but I am experimenting about see what works and why or why not.

The neat thing is I have a quick release front hub Raleigh tourist 28 inch wheel!

I was surfing the internet looking at front hubs offered by bicycle parts manufacturers and looking at everybody's front hubs that were on offer by parts makers and someplace I don't remember where and who offered it.

Somewhere I did see the Raleigh/ Phillips style steel barrel front hub for sale. The tooling jigs that made this hub got sold, left Raleigh, left Nottingham and were used again by another manufacturer and it looked different with different axle nuts no red R nuts, it was not the same shiny chrome finish either but I sat there looking at the computer screen and I said to myself: " That's the classic Raleigh front hub!!" This company has the jigs and pattern and production plant that makes the world renown (Phillips motto) Raleigh front hub that went on all the Raleigh Sports and 28 inch wheel rod brake D.L.1. Tourists/ Royal Roadsters.

That company has the same hub in their offerings they make it now. I was thinking today how stupid and short sighted it is not to offer the vintage cycling world their cones and exles and axle nuts and what the heck? why not a retro fit quick release hub axle set?

Sell replacement axles, cones, nutted style and quick release style parts and sell a ton of these kits to us vintage bicycle Raleigh/ Phillips bicycle users. THERE ARE MILLIONS OF THESE BIKE SIN USE AND WE NEED THESE PARTS DESPRETELY.

Also, we are not organized. It is still maddening to try to find replacement parts and there in no on line directory of services and where to find what parts. What company or person offers what parts. The common user does not have our knowledge of this business as we do.

I will track it down again and write the company and try to get them organized to sell replacement axles, ball bearing cones and sell retro fit replacement axle sets on e- bay and on the internet to all us Raleigh/ Phillips bicycle collectors and users.

Why? I love these bikes andf because the cones in my Tourist D.L.1. are shot already and this was a new old stock Phillips front hub.

To be continued.... and remember my experiment is just that. the bugs are not worked out yet and keeping the front wheel from coming out and causing a terrible horrific cycling accident is all important. If you don't feel you have it safe put the parts back and keep it as it was sold to us. Safe.

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh tourist D.L.1. front hub conversion posted by Keith Body on 6/18/2011 at 1:30:14 PM
Chris, The problem with the old roadster front cones is the lack of lock nuts, so that adjustment can only be carried out with the wheel in place, and really needing to feel a little bearing movement at the rim. The cones also tighten on the thread as you do up the wheel nuts. The shoulders on the cones would be better ground off, and grooved spindles for locking washers used.
The ancient cup and cone bearings were made to be workable and not necessarily critically accurate.
Raleigh did grind the cone surface, very few makers did, they just left the machine grooves in the surface, as the grinding removes some of the case hardening. Best cones were the early Campagnolo GS hubs made by FB with hard chrome surface.
Most old european hubs had 3/16 inch balls, although Campagnolo record had 7/32.

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh tourist D.L.1. front hub conversion posted by chris on 6/18/2011 at 3:39:10 PM
thanks Keith! and like I said I am not recommending this be put into practice. I am concerned about the wheel retention device and keeping one kind of that in place for safetys sake. I don't want anybody getting hurt

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh tourist D.L.1. front hub conversion posted by David on 6/20/2011 at 5:11:27 AM
The only reason these "wheel retention" exist is because wheels come off when the nuts are loose. Tighten them properly and you'll have no problem.

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AGE / VALUE:   Just use em and enjoy! posted by: Chris on 6/15/2011 at 5:47:44 PM
I'm finding that the 27 x 1 1/4 sprite rims are too pitted and rust damaged to be cleaned and as I held them and wondered about well, of course putting the dynohub and 5 speed rear atom/ raleigh hub into other rims and discarding the 27 x 1 1/4 Raleigh ones

but you know what?

I spun these wheels and they are perfectly true and track as perfectly as can be so, so what if they look nasty the rust will help stop quicker but yes, I'll waste brake pads but it will stop quicker and it's more important than looks that the rims are true never kissed kerbs

and I won't have to relace spokes either! the rest of the bike will be as clean as possible and turn better than new.

tires, tubes, grease, cables are better today

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Just use em and enjoy! posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/16/2011 at 7:05:40 AM
Sad Chris but yes, the Sprite 24 x 1 1/4" rims all seem to pit... and even BLISTER badly. A shame as that seems to be the achilles heel of the bicycle.

Try a little "Barkeepers Friend" on them... It's good stuff for rust removal. Additionally, recently I acquired a tube of "FLITZ" polish... It was being demonstrated at Americade and when I handed the feller the aluminium dish that I use as an air filter cover and in a moments time he polished it to a brilliant shine...


Larry "Boneman" Bone - A bit pitted and rusty myself actually....

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Just use em and enjoy! posted by Chris on 6/16/2011 at 10:00:02 AM
Just stay true. no wobbling and no kissing the kerbs.

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Just use em and enjoy! posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/16/2011 at 7:46:06 PM
Hmmm... recollecting now... the many, many years ago when I procured my Sprite my dad being simply and utterly amazed at how true the wheels were on that machine.

Observing your amazement... or maybe moreso, deep appreciation of the same attribute leads me to believe there may actually be something magical about that wheelset size.

Either that... or whomever they had lacing them back then was exceptionally talented.


Larry "Boneman" Bone - Truer words....

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Just use em and enjoy! posted by Chris on 6/17/2011 at 9:45:09 AM
Took the innards out of the g.h.6. dynohub to clean and regrease the bearings and clean a bit of rust and grease it after cleaning the outer chrome surface. The dynohub is as new, no wear at all the inner bearing race needs to be greased.

I have never been impressed with the bearing cones and cups inside the Sturmey- Archer dynohub. It's usable, they are okey but I wish they were better.

The spoke nipples on this 1975 Raleigh dynohub 27 inch wheel are ground when they were built the spokes are tight for now and I am wishing these nipples had been like the nipples on the Peugeot where I could use a socket to tighten them from the inside.

Overall, I don'rt care for Raleigh's spokes after 1950 The dull, common spokes found on the Sports, Superbes and rod brake 28 inch wheel d.l.1. they are cheap and common and don't excite me.

You see, back years ago Raleigh made beautiful, wonderful, spokes stainless and double butted and back in 1930 and before that, WOW! Raleigh's spokes were something really special! Spokes became cheapened and plain. passable, usable, reliable yes but the magic had left.

I like the older stuff where every part every componet was magical and beautiful, lovely parts and when you add it all up on the bike it's really something special.
Magic spokes are Torrington brand. I would routinely change spokes to DT swiss stainless but I hadn't discovered Torringtons which are strong and come in beautiful dark red boxes. I remember all the boxes of Torrington spokes in Francis's lair brought back from Canada.

When I think of Connloy Asp's and other bitchin cool period correct wonderful rims and we get the plain, cheaply made Raleigh steel rims on a 27 inch wheel bike it is a let down the Raleigh rims don't say high pressure on them and they pale next to the Rigida's that came on the Peugeot.


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AGE / VALUE:   have raleigh sport posted by: Gage on 6/13/2011 at 8:05:18 PM
my godfather gave me his old bike, it says the raleigh sport,made in england,serial num. HS4509128, it has a three speed sturmey archer,has original leather seat, if anybody has any info on this bike and anykind of value,plz let me know thanks for your time...Gage

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   have raleigh sport posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/15/2011 at 5:29:47 AM
Pics would help for sure. Seeing as it has the 3-speed hub, check the hub shell for stamped numbers that would be indicative of the year of manufacture. 10 65 would be of course October of 1965.... etc.

Sounds like a nice machine!


Larry "Boneman" Bone - welcome to the fray....

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WANTED:   DL-1 Roadster bolt posted by: Darryl on 6/13/2011 at 12:54:01 PM
I need a very hard to find part. It's the bolt that holds the seat stay & chain stay together. It also holds the chain guard (at the rear). This bolt appears to be a fine thread english standard bolt and is approx 5/8 inches long. I bought a pair of DL-1's and someone substituted a bolt into this nutsert. Of course, it doesn't fit. If anyone has one, please email me. Thanks

           RE:WANTED:   DL-1 Roadster bolt posted by Keith Body on 6/14/2011 at 11:04:41 AM
Could be wrong here, but I think most makes used a 1/4 inch by 26TPI, with a large flat hexagon head.
If you have a british cable (caliper) brake, the brake bolt was 1/4 x 26, see if thats the size.

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AGE / VALUE:   Question about the current Sun Race/ Sturmey- Archer hubs posted by: Chris on 6/13/2011 at 9:22:51 AM
With the older Sturmey- Archer 3 speed a.w. hub you could use a Cyclo cluster and a Huret Alvit derailer and make your 3 speed a nine with the 3 speed clusters that screwed onto or clipped onto either of two types of patterns of Sturmey- Archer hub "driver part"

it gave a wider range, was novel and fun and was an improvement.

But, if you experimented and used larger sprockets and then pushed the thing with better cranks and different front chanirings and if you got out of the official way Cyclo gear company instructed you?

you just broke the Sturmey- Archer a.w. 3 Speed axle by shearing off the clutch key and damaging the hub innards requiring a tear down and re- build.

Now, lets go to today!

Sturmey- Archer was bought by Sunrace of Taiwan and is now! SUN RACE STURMEY ARCHER they have a whole new line, of hubs, cranks and well, go to their web site!

There is a now underway a HUGE resurgence of hub gears and a web site called: hubstripping

Still with all the new stuff better stuff (to Spec too) I don't see anybody putting derailer clusters onto the new stuff Do I? I don't think I do.

Will the new hubs shear off the clutch key and ruin these new, and current generation of 3 speed hubs if you push it with derailer clusters and well, I was thinking because todays modern drivetrains are different wider, more speeds, modern and different and with mountain bikers and well my question is:

Will fitting a derailer cluster onto a new production Sunrace Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hub (or other of their models too)

Will it ruin these new hubs are are they designed differently and better?

Will they hold up?

Before with the old stuff hybrid gearing had it's limits

now, today with everything different and in most cases with Sturmey- Archer it is better and that is another can of worms to debate too,

If we try hybrid gearing with the Sunrace generation what will happen?

This was a hub stripping question but I thought I would put it here on old roads


           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Question about the current Sun Race/ Sturmey- Archer hubs posted by Keith Body on 6/13/2011 at 11:37:28 AM
Chris, I haven't handled hub gears for many years, I'm sure the japanese would make a real improvment. The old AW was designed for ease of manufacture, not wide ranges of extremely low gears.
If I had one with the sort of low gears you mean, it would not have lasted 10 minutes. I tend to prefer all gears in direct drive, and with the ranges now available there is no need to complicate and duplicate the losses by combining both. You also need a long axle to accomodate the cogs, fork end and bolt on gear hanger. There is also a torque applied to the axle in at least one gear.


           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Question about the current Sun Race/ Sturmey- Archer hubs posted by Chris on 6/24/2011 at 10:14:18 AM
When I brought over the Raleigh R.S.W. 16's from the U.K. my pal remarked that I was getting extra long Sturmey- Archer a.w. axles in the rear hubs and those would come in handy in other wheels, in other Raleigh's in the fleet.

Seems Sturmey allowed special extra long axles to be made for the R.S.W. 16 the idiot sister to the Raleigh Chopper.

The Sprite has the same rear hub and artom 5 speed derailer cluster as found on the ten speed Raleigh Chopper. The Raleigh sprite has valuable rare parts to offer the cycle vultures

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AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by: Christopher on 6/12/2011 at 9:26:01 AM
I stoped in the store to look over the green Fuji, again for parts and when I got back there surprise!

A Raleigh Sprite! First! one in 3 years! This bike knocked me out! I ran up to the front of the store told the manager I want it. Yes, but it's $50.00 not 35. this is an antique, valuable bike!!! with tax 53. something. I looked at him! and the bike, this comes in the store with the price already on it? Thought they took donations? hmmmm....

Loan? till tomorrow? I wanted to get out of there with my friend to dinner.

"Why do you need so many bikes?" um, let me think about it, um, it messes up my paperwork so, I'm gonna say....... No!

I told him he is normal and won't understand at all.

Well, I hacked a work around and got it. It is a coffee colored Raleigh 27 inch wheel Sprite ladies frame bike but.......

The chainwheel cranks and rear derailer SHOWS NO WEAR

Aside from rotted tires and dirt and a bit too much rust on the front rim to clean away and taking a good look at the thing.

This bike is in AS NEW, UNUSED, unridden CONDITION!

Bearing races, headset cups, bottom bracket cups, brake shoes, hub innards EVERYTHING IS IS AS NEW, UNUSED.

It has a large, heavy, Sir Walter Raleigh bell made by Joseph Lucas it is MINT!


Dare grips! a mirror, a Esgee Pletscher alloy rack with a side basket that folds


I was delighted to find that the seat post is the extra long one not some short little thing, This is good because I am tall and raised it up.








New cable casing,original

horrible weinman alloy front brake leavers with original Raleigh steel brake calipers and original Raleigh brake shoes the bike is an interesting study of Raleigh in 1975 a mixture of French and Weinman and fading English Raleigh parts. The front double chainring has two chainrings on it but are both too large. this is original for sensible, righteous, fun gears you want the Rene Herse bikes!

No wear! It has an air force sticker on it and was used on a base. Neat!

vinal Brooks seat with Real Brooks hardware to clamp the seat post.

I am putting the hubs and spokes into Rigida Super Chromolux rims I have on hand as the Sturmey Archer stock rims are rusted and the other one has to match. The Sturmey's can't match the rigida the Sturmey 27 x 1 1/4 rim is not as good.

The HURET front changer is mashed against the coffee colored steel painted rear mudguard a poor fit from factory. it is mint no scratches on it.

Not bad for 53.00 and some change, out the door.


           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Chris on 6/12/2011 at 10:14:13 AM
Everything is frozen. It strange! it's mint, mint but needs cleaning and freeing up a good soaking in the parts cleaner.

I am thinking about the headset races and the load bearing bottom headset race cut that is mint those mint bottom bracket parts, ohh!

I remember one shop that regreased everything rebuilding what the Raleigh factory did to make it the best they could all the work the did to give their customers the best running bicycle that made the difference, their customers came back to buy more bikes from their shop because of the best service they offered. Raleigh does not like to use grease they said. Their grease got sticky, it was brown and sticky and set up like old honey.

I love as new, n.o.s. huret alvit derailers taking care to keep the parts cleaner away from the plastic/nylon parts.

now, I'll use those other set of Mafac brakes and more Shimano new rubber brake shoes!

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Chris on 6/12/2011 at 10:16:53 AM
The most magical thing on this bike? The Sir Walter Raleigh/Joseph Lucas bell!

My friend grabbed the bell and rang it as we loaded it into the car!

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/13/2011 at 2:59:29 AM
Nice.... My very first English Machine was a 1969 Raleigh Sprite 27 in Gold. 10 speed precisely as you describe with Dunlop "Sprite" gumwall tyres.

I slaved cutting lawns for two years to put together the princely sum of $100 to procure it new.

Christopher... are the mudguards squarish or deep section round? Black, or colour matched to the frame.

My original Sprite had round, deep sectioned mudguards in a semi-gloss black finish.

You parting it out or just re-furbishing?


Larry "Boneman" Bone - Sprites.... are NOT just for parts!!!!

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Chris on 6/13/2011 at 8:45:35 AM
Hello Larry! I went to bed at 12:30a.m. parts scattered all over the floor! tools! steel woll soap pads, rags! The mudguards are square-ish and color matched at factory to match the rest of the bike which is Raleigh's ugly coffee brown metallic. I will leave them on the bike not to mess with it. I have the Puegeot rims on it better rims wider gears, I'm all mixing and conjuruing up a rider or a daily driver as they say.

The coffee color varied I have seen brilliant coffee colors on Raleigh twenty's and on Sports but the ingriedients of their paint varied and this one is acceptable but still, when you have seen other colors Raleigh offered you just sigh with a bit of depressed letdown. Oh it's Coffee. Radical colors would be yellow, green,gold, and others.

I hate these fenders and the Bluemels I have the silver alloy ones call from beyond the closet door. "You can fit us, ya know! yea use us!" we want ta be back on a bike! "Yes, but I don't like your fussy mounting hardware" "Then use the Raleigh hardware and drill a hole in the Bluemels"
"but thats messing with Bluemels and these are National treasures and I'm too tired to dig out the drill"

I have used Raleigh's wire stays with Bluemels alloy mudgards before.

Set aside to be cleaned are the ATOM 5 speed cluster, the rear wheel with it's N.O.S. axle and a lot of other greaty parts all to be cleaned and used in future projects

           RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Chris on 6/13/2011 at 9:13:10 AM
So to save for a 1955 Flying Scot that cost 250.00 special ordered from Scotland and shipped to Detroit was a huge, huge deal back in the day when you could get a used car for that amount. Yes, 100.00 back in 1969 when you had to save for it. It does put it in perspective.

It 's a shame when I see peppered chrome on these rims and handlebars the rest is mint.

My Peugeot has specially formed spoke nipples allowing me to tighten the spokes from inside the rim with a common socket bit. Not possible with Raleigh.

As for the Scot the lady had two more touring ones, mint, slightly upgraded and changed but wearing original paint in her house. I got the track bike but missed the other two. I got the call yesterday, years later they are mine as of this morning. One of the greatest finds in the area and here I am not even in that neighborhood at all it was arranged long distance my friend exclaiming: "Holy S#@*!" Flying Scots! These are about the best I have ever done.
These will stay in Michigan I will not ship these at all. I don't trust U.P.S. or any other shipper with these.

It was a deal a good deal but still broke the bank so to speak.

That area yielded so much neat stuff but to open up the garage and see a Flying Scot! and then two more? and so many years later!

She didn't want to sell them at the time. always leave your business card and stay in touch with people you have done business with because they remember that you look for old bikes and they can and still will sleuth for you Hey! I found you another bike!

I love this but the cleaning and seeing these all neglected is a bit wearing and depressing. I remember another shop fellow who would buy a bike somebody dragged out of their garage and the customer would set it down and collect 30 or so and then Steve would take a can of W.D.40 and spray it soak the bike with it almost and that was "a cleaning up"

and a freeing up and then wipe it down with a rag or paper towel and let it dry. cables, gears, parts chrome paint everything would be dripping with w.d. 40. I don't recommend it, it fouls up brake pads and tires. Yet, still it worked W.D. 40 is weird!

           RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Chris on 6/13/2011 at 9:22:42 AM
I took the can away from him when he wanted to squirt W.D. 40 in the Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hub. That is a no- no.

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/13/2011 at 9:52:36 AM
>I took the can away from him when he wanted to squirt W.D.
>40 in the Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hub. That is a no- no.


Downright frightening... just the thought of it!

Sounds like you're having as much fun as I had / am having with the "Lite Sprite" that's my "Neighborgood Rider".

PICS.... when you can!


Larry "Boneman" Bone - he used to just part 'em out....


           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Christopher on 6/15/2011 at 5:47:39 PM
Overhauled the headset. Zero wear it is as new and turns so wonderfully glistens too.

wheels are on it, tires and tubes the wheel turns marvelously no grit smooth and it it adjusted perfectly Simplex quick release back on the bike.

I have the Peugeot wheels on it wider gears I'm cleaning the original Raleigh wheels and will rebuild everything

Have to do the bottom bracket and am rebuilding the Huret alvit they only used 15 balls per derailer jocky wheel I think they skimped on ball bearings. I am trying to not forget how it goes back together! where on the internet are the Huret Alvit exploded diagrams? I may need them.

           RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Chris on 6/16/2011 at 10:00:51 AM
found them!

           RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed V.S.Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. posted by Chris on 6/21/2011 at 12:48:22 PM
I removed the bottom bracket parts out of the Sprite and put them into my d.l.1. and the worn d.l.1. cups in the sprite. I am playing favorites here and prefering to put the best condition parts into the tourist d.l.1.

I love the Tourist d.l.1. more than my Sprite and the Sprite had new parts to offer my D.L.1.

The 28 inch wheel Raleigh is a far better, magical more fun to ride bike. I was excited to have the new conditon parts to put in the raleigh d.l.1.

There is nothing like a 28 inch wheel Tourist D.L.1. with new headsets and bottom brackets especially a new fixed cup and adjustable cup. The bike handles like a dream!

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Raleigh Sprite Ten Speed! posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/21/2011 at 6:17:15 PM
LOL.... the DL-1 is a very elegant machine indeed. Yet, all the British machines are still far and away more elegant than others.

Glad to hear all machines are benfitting from the attention.


Larry "Boneman" Bone - gotta dust mine off actually....

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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules racer posted by: alf sterling on 6/11/2011 at 9:10:15 AM
Hello from alf sterling Hartlepool U.K.
i have just aquired an old racer and i am trying to find more info regarding its age and model type.I have an idea it is a hercules southall No 3 with center pull brakes !!it says 1932 on the rear lug.
i have lots of pics but they are not on any websites yet.
i can send any pics if anyone can help me please (just send your addres please,,i will be uploading pics onto my website as soon as i can get round to it.

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules racer posted by alf sterling on 6/11/2011 at 10:28:30 AM
here is a link to a couple of pictures of the hercules racer.


           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules racer posted by Keith Body on 6/11/2011 at 1:30:25 PM
Alf, Your Hercules looks in good shape, obviously the front forks don't belong, and guessing, appears to be 1935 to 1937. If that is a bend in the LH seat stay it could be easily straightened.
I can't locate Hercules catalogues, but I think there was a higher Southall model as well.
You can send me pics, just point at the blue name, possibly a right click might see "copy shortcut"
I am UK based and met Frank Southall when he was Hercules sales manager about 1955

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules racer posted by alf sterling on 6/11/2011 at 11:28:40 PM
i will post all my pics here asap
i am at the moment keeping it in its unrestored condition till i get time to renovate it.there is a number on the frame rear lug 1932.
alf sterling


           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules racer posted by Henry on 6/16/2011 at 6:43:44 PM
I love those brakes! They look like a precursor to Campagnolo's beautiful but totally pointless Delta brakes from the mid-late 1980's. Yours, however, do the same job with about half as many parts.

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AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Tourist 28 x 1 1 /2 tube available at Wal mart! posted by: Chris on 6/10/2011 at 8:55:31 AM
the tubes for the Raleigh tourist are 28 x 1 1/2 and this is 700 x 38 c there are presta valve tubes that cover this size at Wal Mart made by Bell who supplies most all of their bike part stuff.

I rememember when we could not even find 28 x 1 1/2 tubes in the bicycle shops and people were stretching the 27 x 1 1/4 tubes to fit in the Raleigh tourist bikes and it worked kind of but not really.



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AGE / VALUE:   A book worth reading posted by: sam on 6/7/2011 at 5:26:46 PM
Check out this book---it gives a lot of early bicycle history in England

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   A book worth reading posted by Chris on 6/10/2011 at 8:53:47 AM
Bartlet had a huge, huge collection! Now that's he's passed, it's in one of the museaums of transport, somewhere in the U.K. don't remember where but he was dedicated.

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   A book worth reading posted by sam on 6/12/2011 at 8:08:01 PM
Sam Bartlet's collection became "The British Museum of Transportation"

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A book worth reading posted by Chris on 6/13/2011 at 9:16:35 AM
yes, yes it did, he was that dedicated and yes it's a book worth reading.

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AGE / VALUE:   Rudge Sports on e- bay posted by: Chris on 6/1/2011 at 9:35:42 AM
22 inch frame 26 inch wheels cable brakes and at about 275.00 and climbing higher!! last I looked!

           better deal posted by sam on 6/3/2011 at 7:53:09 PM

also there was two sports at the recycler this past week but I didn't have time to dig them out!and at 25cents a pound too

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AGE / VALUE:   got to see this one! ( Raleigh gran sports on e- bay) posted by: Chris on 6/1/2011 at 9:28:46 AM
Guys, Take a look at e- bay item # 220790066036 Raleigh Gran Sports frame set and parts GB Campagnolo

Keith can you comment on this bike for us?

I love the red inserts on the handlebars never have seen this version bwefore and the rest of the parts are really cool!

Now this is one sharp bike! special and worthy! Apickers dream come true.

I love this stuff!

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   got to see this one! ( Raleigh gran sports on e- bay) posted by Chris on 6/1/2011 at 9:32:31 AM
no relation to seller

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   got to see this one! ( Raleigh gran sports on e- bay) posted by Keith Body on 6/1/2011 at 12:48:09 PM
Chris, best I can do. This is a low end Carlton, I would suggest not long after Raleigh bought them. As carlton was unknown in US they sold them as Raleigh, some Sun and BSA.
These rode quite well, but this obviously had a gear upgrade, the Campagnolo GS steel gear could be early 60's. Carlton claimed to be hand made, a matter of opinion. Probably Truwel seam welded tubing unofficially referred to as "gaspipe", (by those fortunate to have 531 drawn tubes) but when the production first moved to the east they found far worse.
This has the common cheap hollow wrapover seat stays with the top of the seat stay tubes swaged (tapered), and no centre pull rear brake bridge.
Obviously worth the $5 or so when I last looked.

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   got to see this one! ( Raleigh gran sports on e- bay) posted by Chris on 6/2/2011 at 9:01:25 AM
it's all the GB Gerry Burgess parts that caught my eye!@
I love GB

You are correct and thanks for the clarification

           RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   got to see this one! ( Raleigh gran sports on e- bay) posted by Chris on 6/3/2011 at 9:13:14 AM
I found this particular bike to be special and magical and it called to me!

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MISC:   RFO (Request For Opinions) posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/1/2011 at 2:56:04 AM
OK I've been known to take the DL-1 on a rail-trail or two... only because I know the trail, it's "mild" attributes, etc. and that the 1 1/2" tyres won't have any issues navigating the cinders.

That being said... of late, I have a new opportunity. The newly ... "installed" (for lack of a better word) McDade Trail in the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area.


The trail surface from what I've seen thus far ranges from ... well, "plank and frame bridges" over streams to what appears to be a fine "riprap" or gravel.

So.... any thoughts on what would best suit such a terrain? Yeah.. I was thinking MTB but really.... That's a bit rash, eh? I do have (or should I say my DOG has) an Huffy Ocala "balloon" tyre machine that may work... but being what it is... I don't know if I wanna be out in the middle of the woods when it fails...



Larry "Boneman" Bone - No McDonalds on the McDade... thankfully!!!!!

           RE:MISC:   RFO (Request For Opinions) posted by David on 6/1/2011 at 6:04:21 AM
What's wrong with an English roadster? They're built for bad roads and are used on them the world over. You'll go faster and more comfortably on your DL-1 than you will on any MTB.

           RE:MISC:   RFO (Request For Opinions) posted by JDuck on 6/1/2011 at 7:53:14 AM
No problem with 26x1 3/8 on rail trails here. I concur with David.

           RE:MISC:   RFO (Request For Opinions) posted by Chris on 6/1/2011 at 8:55:58 AM
A cell phone with G.P.S. too. have fun out there and the D.L.1. is fine.

The Raleigh Tourist was fine for the "worlds most traveled man" J. Hart Rosdail back in the late 40 early 50's so why not you?

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AGE / VALUE:   Lookin for something special? posted by: sam on 5/31/2011 at 5:52:40 AM
It's road bikes but Hilary does have some cogs for Sturmey/archers.Be sure to check out the frames too,some of the older ones are even near my price range!

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Lookin for something special? posted by David on 5/31/2011 at 8:55:43 AM
Hilary's a knowledgeable and honest guy to do business with. He often has remarkable old stuff. Just remember that postage from England to the USA is not cheap anymore!

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